Good video. I was dis-assembling the lock when I noticed that the two phillips screws that hold the inside to the outside were loose - very loose. Probably something I neglected when I installed the lock or it's possible the door itself shrunk (it was a new door). Anyway, when I tightened these the lock worked perfectly again. Something you might want to look for before you go through this whole dis-assembly procedure. I am not certain why this worked but it did.
Good point . Mine also quit working. Replaced the battery and noticed those screws had loosened over time. Tighten everything. So far so good. I’m guessing that battery can go low enough that the lights will still blink but not enough juice for the solenoid to turn.
I removed the lock, opened it, fix the issue, so I thought! I put it back together. I can hear something happening after I put in the code, but the lock does not lock or unlock. We originally paid someone to install it a couple of weeks ago and he put it in upside down! We called him back and turned it around. I started to think that he made some other mistakes and that is why I took the whole lock apart. I guess, since I cannot get it to work, I will just use the key. :-(
There are a few videos out there. I have had my ups and downs with this lock but I mostly am happy and I have been able to fix mine thanks to watching MANY videos. Read the manual and try installing it yourself. Look at the diagrams very carefully. With time and patience you should be able to get it to work.
In my coastal climate, the actuator springs get rusty. The spring acts like a gear, as the motor spins, one direction to push the plastic “C” piece down, and the other to bring it back up. Would be nice if they used a stainless spring, or offered a version with one. I had to pull the motor and clean the rust off the spring with sandpaper all the way around... applied a product called CorrosionX to slow future rusting. The roughness of it had almost cut through the little tab on the C shaped plastic piece, where it wraps around the spring, so I used crazy glue and a layer of Kleenex to reinforce it and build up it’s thickness a bit.
Some comments. I just disassembled my own. My initial issue was the pin wasn't disengaging after the code timeout, allowing anyone to lock/unlock long after the code timeout. I WD-40d the whole assembly in there and now that functions flawlessly, however I ran into issues of my own making. 1: I lost the small pin spring (oops). I was able to jerry rig by cutting up the spring of a click-pen, it fit perfectly, just had to be careful with it because that spring is noticeably stronger than original spring. 2: that c-bracket functions by the solenoid turning the driver spring, not "pulling". It uses that spring like a Helical Gear assembly to pull the C bracket up or down purely by turning the spring. 3: I have no idea what happened but upon reassembly I found I could not tighten the Torx screws 100% down or the whole thing wouldn't work. I went tight, then backed off a fraction of a thread so it was reassembled with some mechanical "looseness" right where the C-Bracket is and now it functions flawlessly.
oh yeah, since your brought up click pen, you might find time to watch this video where I fixed an electric scooter motor using click pen springs ;) ruclips.net/video/rwxW1riar6Q/видео.html
IMO the problem with this lock is the "lubricant" which Schlage uses inside the moving parts of the lock. That lubricant eventually thickens causing the knob to spin without moving the dead bolt. (Note the shiny stuff visible behind the gray plastic slider at 1:28.) After taking the lock apart (to 1:27), remove and thoroughly clean EVERYTHING to remove ALL the lubricant. Pay particular attention to the slider and the metal behind it. After cleaning, put the parts back in their correct positions -- you don't have to reduce the spring tension -- and spray the formerly lubricated areas with silicon spray. Reassemble the lock and re-install it in the door. After doing this my lock has operated perfectly for years with no knob-spinning.
Make sure when you put it back together. It's set correctly because if you put it in wrong and you hit the schlage button up top. It will open why the door is locked from the outside.
What did you really fix other than taking it apart and reassembling? When i activate the solenoid by pressing the button there’s hardly any movement in the c clip. Wondering if solenoid is shot.
thanks for checking in... I think I made it pretty clear that the spring tension was the issue. I reduced the spring tension and it has worked perfectly since repaired over 1 year ago.
@@Timeflys987I noticed that it's not a solenoid, but a (weak) motor that spins the spring. The pin on the C-shaped plastic arm slides along the spinning spring which is effectively acting like a very floppy worm gear. Friction on the spring or the pin will cause the "sticking" or "loss of grip" that you're describing. I believe that with enough friction, the motor stops turning the spring, but when releasing, the motor completes more revolutions. As a result, the arm slips lower and lower on the spring over time. I think the real solution is to either ensure the motor has enough torque and/or eliminate the sources of friction.
Hey read the manual... you have to use your programming code plus other buttons in order to set it into that mode. Most likely you or someone else disabled it. Or maybe you factory reset it? But that issue is fixable. Let me know if it works. Good luck!
I will never buy another Schlage anything! My lock freezes in cold weather and locked my daughter out. They know of this problem and their crappy poor quality and have done nothing to fix their junk!
@@DrivingIntelligence , I suppose. Or you just reset it, and it'll go bad eventually. What did you do to it differently than what the manufacturer did, that will make it last?
@@johnthree1611 If you watch the video, you should see what I did to repair the lock. It's been fixed since I made this video with no further problems. Hope you can resolve your issue.
IMO the problem with this lock is the "lubricant" which Schlage uses inside the moving parts of the lock. That lubricant eventually thickens causing the knob to spin without moving the dead bolt. (Note the shiny stuff visible behind the gray plastic slider at 1:28.) After taking the lock apart (to 1:27), remove and thoroughly clean EVERYTHING to remove ALL the lubricant. Pay particular attention to the slider and the metal behind it. After cleaning, put the parts back in their correct positions -- you don't have to reduce the spring tension -- and spray the formerly lubricated areas with silicon spray. Reassemble the lock and re-install it in the door. After doing this my lock has operated perfectly for years with no knob-spinning.
Good video. I was dis-assembling the lock when I noticed that the two phillips screws that hold the inside to the outside were loose - very loose. Probably something I neglected when I installed the lock or it's possible the door itself shrunk (it was a new door). Anyway, when I tightened these the lock worked perfectly again. Something you might want to look for before you go through this whole dis-assembly procedure. I am not certain why this worked but it did.
Thanks for the feedback. Great input
Good point . Mine also quit working. Replaced the battery and noticed those screws had loosened over time. Tighten everything. So far so good. I’m guessing that battery can go low enough that the lights will still blink but not enough juice for the solenoid to turn.
I removed the lock, opened it, fix the issue, so I thought! I put it back together. I can hear something happening after I put in the code, but the lock does not lock or unlock. We originally paid someone to install it a couple of weeks ago and he put it in upside down! We called him back and turned it around. I started to think that he made some other mistakes and that is why I took the whole lock apart. I guess, since I cannot get it to work, I will just use the key. :-(
sorry to hear that... maybe try disassembly again and follow what I did in the video?
There are a few videos out there. I have had my ups and downs with this lock but I mostly am happy and I have been able to fix mine thanks to watching MANY videos. Read the manual and try installing it yourself. Look at the diagrams very carefully. With time and patience you should be able to get it to work.
@elizabethhyland5188 since I made the adjustment to the spring, my parents have had flawless operation of this lock.
In my coastal climate, the actuator springs get rusty. The spring acts like a gear, as the motor spins, one direction to push the plastic “C” piece down, and the other to bring it back up.
Would be nice if they used a stainless spring, or offered a version with one.
I had to pull the motor and clean the rust off the spring with sandpaper all the way around... applied a product called CorrosionX to slow future rusting.
The roughness of it had almost cut through the little tab on the C shaped plastic piece, where it wraps around the spring, so I used crazy glue and a layer of Kleenex to reinforce it and build up it’s thickness a bit.
excellent comment, thanks for your input
Some comments. I just disassembled my own. My initial issue was the pin wasn't disengaging after the code timeout, allowing anyone to lock/unlock long after the code timeout. I WD-40d the whole assembly in there and now that functions flawlessly, however I ran into issues of my own making. 1: I lost the small pin spring (oops). I was able to jerry rig by cutting up the spring of a click-pen, it fit perfectly, just had to be careful with it because that spring is noticeably stronger than original spring. 2: that c-bracket functions by the solenoid turning the driver spring, not "pulling". It uses that spring like a Helical Gear assembly to pull the C bracket up or down purely by turning the spring. 3: I have no idea what happened but upon reassembly I found I could not tighten the Torx screws 100% down or the whole thing wouldn't work. I went tight, then backed off a fraction of a thread so it was reassembled with some mechanical "looseness" right where the C-Bracket is and now it functions flawlessly.
great comment, thank you and glad you worked it out.
oh yeah, since your brought up click pen, you might find time to watch this video where I fixed an electric scooter motor using click pen springs ;) ruclips.net/video/rwxW1riar6Q/видео.html
IMO the problem with this lock is the "lubricant" which Schlage uses inside the moving parts of the lock. That lubricant eventually thickens causing the knob to spin without moving the dead bolt. (Note the shiny stuff visible behind the gray plastic slider at 1:28.) After taking the lock apart (to 1:27), remove and thoroughly clean EVERYTHING to remove ALL the lubricant. Pay particular attention to the slider and the metal behind it. After cleaning, put the parts back in their correct positions -- you don't have to reduce the spring tension -- and spray the formerly lubricated areas with silicon spray. Reassemble the lock and re-install it in the door. After doing this my lock has operated perfectly for years with no knob-spinning.
good comment, thank you
Make sure when you put it back together. It's set correctly because if you put it in wrong and you hit the schlage button up top. It will open why the door is locked from the outside.
thanks for your input
Thanks! Your is perfect.
Very welcome!
What did you really fix other than taking it apart and reassembling? When i activate the solenoid by pressing the button there’s hardly any movement in the c clip. Wondering if solenoid is shot.
thanks for checking in... I think I made it pretty clear that the spring tension was the issue. I reduced the spring tension and it has worked perfectly since repaired over 1 year ago.
@@DrivingIntelligence the issue I have it engages to unlock but loses grip halfway through turn think maybe the spring is the issue?
@@Timeflys987 hi there, not sure I understand your issue. Loses grip?
@@Timeflys987I noticed that it's not a solenoid, but a (weak) motor that spins the spring. The pin on the C-shaped plastic arm slides along the spinning spring which is effectively acting like a very floppy worm gear. Friction on the spring or the pin will cause the "sticking" or "loss of grip" that you're describing. I believe that with enough friction, the motor stops turning the spring, but when releasing, the motor completes more revolutions. As a result, the arm slips lower and lower on the spring over time.
I think the real solution is to either ensure the motor has enough torque and/or eliminate the sources of friction.
Thanks very much for the input
I don't understand what you actually did? just take it apart put it back together? didn't lube it up?
Basically, I re-tentioned the spring. If there is any grime in there, clean it out and use dry lube.
Ok thanks. I was thinking of using an old tooth brush with 3 in 1 oil…
I’d use a dry lithium line to prevent dirt build up. You know how oil attracts dust and dirt.
I’d didn’t think dust and dirt would make it there… it’s closed… but yeah I got lithium 10w-40…
i have to use the passcode to lock the lock whereas before we could just press the schlage button; any ideas?
sorry, can't help you with that question, I suggest you call the Schlage Technical Support line.
Hey read the manual... you have to use your programming code plus other buttons in order to set it into that mode. Most likely you or someone else disabled it. Or maybe you factory reset it? But that issue is fixable. Let me know if it works. Good luck!
@@Tydie. thanks for the assist!
@@Tydie. I have- cover to cover and have also searched you tube videos and can't find the fix- will try to reset
@@PaulaBowers-e2h whats ur model number?
I will never buy another Schlage anything! My lock freezes in cold weather and locked my daughter out. They know of this problem and their crappy poor quality and have done nothing to fix their junk!
I hear you loud and clear! Poor engineering!
There are quite a few youtube videos on this same lock, so it is a design flaw. The customer should not have to fix their errors! :-(
Follow the instructions I posted about cleaning and re-lubricating the lock. My lock has performed perfectly in all weather since doing that.
Seems like a defective lock.
was until I fixed it...
@@DrivingIntelligence , I suppose. Or you just reset it, and it'll go bad eventually. What did you do to it differently than what the manufacturer did, that will make it last?
@@DrivingIntelligence , I have one for the front and back door, both have done this.
@@johnthree1611 If you watch the video, you should see what I did to repair the lock. It's been fixed since I made this video with no further problems. Hope you can resolve your issue.
@@DrivingIntelligence , I'll definitely try your solution, I just worry about it ever deciding to not work in the future.
IMO the problem with this lock is the "lubricant" which Schlage uses inside the moving parts of the lock. That lubricant eventually thickens causing the knob to spin without moving the dead bolt. (Note the shiny stuff visible behind the gray plastic slider at 1:28.) After taking the lock apart (to 1:27), remove and thoroughly clean EVERYTHING to remove ALL the lubricant. Pay particular attention to the slider and the metal behind it. After cleaning, put the parts back in their correct positions -- you don't have to reduce the spring tension -- and spray the formerly lubricated areas with silicon spray. Reassemble the lock and re-install it in the door. After doing this my lock has operated perfectly for years with no knob-spinning.
good input... the lock in this video has not had any problems since I made these corrections / adjustments.