I’ve been struggling with tension issues and thread breaks for 2 years! I can’t believe something this simple fixed it. Thank you, thank you and thank you!
I've been attending your classes for the past 2 years & have learned enough to be confident in buying my 1501. You are a natural Teacher! Thank you so much
Thank you! Your explanations are so perfectly clear. I wish the tension dials had a digital readout so we could write down the best tension “number” for each type of thread and set it back and forth in a few seconds. I know it will vary but it’d get us close enough to only make slight adjustments. This guessing game is so frustrating and time consuming.
Hey romero,i just purchased new multi needle, i had breaking threads,bobbin issues, you name it i was going crazy!!!!!. i done everything as per your instructions,(without the bobbin machine).and now,GREAT GREAT GREAT!!!!! im so happy.so many thanks for your informative videos.colin...in UK.
All I can say is thank you so much for suggesting the Towa Sewing L-Style Thread Bobbin Case Tension Gauge TM-1. I was having bobbin tension. I just couldn't get it correct on my own. But, when I used the tension gauge, it was like magic. My tension is back to the way it was when I first received my Ricoma 1501. Again, thank you. Btw, I did use your link when I purchased the gauge.
I bought the bobbin case gauge and did everything you said and my machine has never ran better!! Thank you for explaining it and teaching it so well. 🫡
Thanks so much for this video! Can you examine the top tension with the tension gauge? I never realized that you had to make the knobs above the needles flush.
There is a different gauge for the top tension, but I am not a fan of that tension gauge. I prefer the bobbin Towa gauge. As far as the knobs being flush, thats a good starting point, then eventually you can make adjustments as your tensions fluctuate.
thanx you this was very helpful can you do a side flag to see if it come straight plis I'm having that problem they don't go put straight i don't know why
i just followed your technique...its my new machine....i just said to hell with it...reset is all...been making test stitches...within 3 test runs,,i got it real nice..its good practice because im hooping 2 layers of 2.5 ounce cut away....and i get to see what bad hooping does when i didnt make it tight enough....do u think i should hoop 3 layers of cut away backing..or should 2 layers 2.5 ounce be good enough for all test? This video helped me a lot bro...so far your content has been treating me well...i got hatch 3.(your advice).stopped using chroma until i get more resources,,,,i refuse to learn chroma by making video conferences every time i get stuck...i took 1 a step back by just buying hatch 3 to get 3 steps forward and learn the basics faster.... My first test run on tension i had 2 needle breaks...loose threads....now they look so dam pretty and tight hahahahah..aw man...im mad grown with gray beard happy at tight stitches....hahahahha you couldnt tell me 5 years ago i would have this machine...hahahah///// keep the content comimg////
I was having all sorts of issues with my machine and tension and long tails. Using your video I was able to reset my machine for proper tension to a good base line for flats and eliminated the tail issue I was having. Thank you so much for providing a great video and explaining things!!
Only a nightmare if you use a Ricoma machine haha ok small joke from a Tajima user, but seriously as a machine operator you should not be concerned if someone touched the tension, you change the thread, you need to adjust and check, you change thread brand, type, or even every day of operation you should be checking the tension! You change the bobbin, then you need to check again both bottom and top tensions. Sorry I only saw the first 20 seconds of your video but I still had to comment as I could see where you were going with it. Tension is not a set and forget mentality, it’s meant to be monitored. Last of all, best keep people out of your machine room anyway 😅
I did exactly what you demonstrated, and it works very well for towels and sweatshirts but when I change to stitching vinyl with titanium needles I have constant thread breaks. Is there an easy way to vary from one substrate to another?
This is great. 2 questions. 1. when you are doing the reading and insert the bobbin to the TOWA, do you put the bobbin thread in the pig tail? or out? 2. When Bobbin is in the TOWA you say so its pulling clock wise? Is that how you run on machine? I have had running clock wise but someone told me to run it counter clock wise? Does it matter which way? Thanks
Would you happen to know if the Towa DIGITAL tension gauge would use the same guidelines of tension you mention for hats and flats ? Or would they be different numbers?
Oh man, where were you 2 months ago where I was struggling for 3 weeks with my tensions when I first got my new machine xD I then bought the Towa tension gauge and MAN. What a world of difference that made. Still an amazing guide on how to reset my tensions. I might actually do that. Do you need to do this periodically?
Romero, I am looking into a Ricoma unit. I am currently using an Highland 1501, Great machine, I have operated Tajima and SWF, Happy and Melco as well. My question to you is what is the cause of a thread pulling away from the needle after the cutting? it seems like a tension issue but the bobbin looks great and i can only figure it is coming from the thread cone its self as not every color does this. Any ideas. Thanks
Thanks! I took a screenshot of your notes because they were very detailed and helpful. One question I have is can you please explain what you mean by the 'top tension is equivalent to 3x the bottom tension' ? Does this mean when resetting the machine and adjusting the upper tension, you should turn the top tension once and the bottom 3 times? I get confused about how to adjust the top and bottom tensions and how much I should turn each one. Any advice you can give will be greatly appreciated!
Yes, thank you for the message. What im saying is, you can either turn the top knob 1 turn, or turn the bottom knob 3 turns to get the same outcome. The bottom knob is to fine tune your tension. The top knob is to make major change.
@Romero Threads Thank you for this video! This and others you’ve posted have helped me. I’ve had my machine for a month and struggle with the tension. I kept getting birds nests! I was so frustrated!!😤😤😤I rethreaded and still had problems. It even got to the point where I semi dismantled my bobbin housing to clean out a bird’s nest😤😤😤I was too through! That happened today!!! Afterwards I rethreaded my troubled spots and finally was able to pull off a tension test. I had to stop the machine periodically during testing to rethread yet another needle😔Finally, I made it through! Now I can actually see my problem areas! Unfortunately, I don’t have a Towa gauge but just added one to my Amazon cart!😊You mentioned you use separate bobbins for your flats and hats. Whenever you switch your bobbins out, do you adjust your tension as well? Do you always reset it so the knobs and screws are flushed? And what type of bobbin were you using in this video?
Thank you for this message. Embroidery is a complex idea with so many variables that it can be overwhelming when something goes wrong. The more you troubleshoot the more you understand how everything depends on each other on the thread path. As far as changing tension, once I set my tensions, I probably go months before I have to make any major tensions to my bobbin tension. I use needles 1-9 for hats and those needles use a tension set for 3d puff hats. Needles 10-15 use a different bobbin used for flats (polos, beanies, towels). That way, when I change the bobbin housing I don't have to adjust anything. Hopefully this makes sense. Keep practicing and once you got it dialed in, it's soo much fun.
@Romero Threads Running my second tension test for the day. I reset all the knobs, ran the test, and was able to see who needed what. Now all look sweet except for one and I know exactly what to do to correct it thanks to you! Much gratitude!🙏🏾
Romero, I am having so much trouble with all of my tensioners , not all of them pull the same , and don't know why . tried everything , new needle , different thread and re-thread one hundred time ... I just don't get it . from ground zero it should all pull the same but it doesn't ... please advises , thanks
Confused on putting thread in bobbin case. Shouldn't move counter clockwise when you pull or clockwise? Other videos I've seen it moves counter clockwise
I would say it can be 3 things: 1. (most likely) Not enough stabilizer- Thinner garments such as polos require cut away, preferably 2 pieces. 2. Design is dense heavy (too much stitches for the garment). Sometimes, backing can help. 3. Can be a digitize problem. Ideally, designs should be digitized center out & bottom up. Usually tension issues will produce loose threads, bird nesting if too loose or thread breaks, and bobbin showing if too tight.
Hi Romero .my name is seife from seattle .i have MT1501 i bought from RiComa over a year ..am have issues still practicing ..and i was watching almust all your traning when i was in Ethiopia for over your but am back 5 months ago ..still i need help can you pls help ?
Hey Romero! I have a Ricoma MT-1502 and I have a problem that no one can solve. After a few steps, he can no longer catch the thread from the spool. so far I have received the answer that it is due to the tension of the splints, but the splints are 100% well tensioned. I've been working on this machine for a few years, I know how to properly tension the splints. any other opinion? If you want I can send you a private video to see more clearly what it is about. Thank you in advance!
It all depends on your initial I test stitch out. If there is no bobbin on a single sample then tighten up the top tension. And if theres too much bobbin on a single sample then loosen up the top tension.
@@RomeroThreads I just saw it was Nm I have a digital one and it reads Gf. A quick Google calculator, 250Nm puts it at 115-116 Gf. So it's accurate. Thanks brotha for your videos. It helps more than you know! 🙏🏽
Thanks for the message, I don't have a em1010. Im pretty sure running a tension test is very similar. Maybe sometime in the future, i'll link up w/ someone who owns a 1010 or other machines and make more videos on tension and set up.
I haven't used the 1010 so I am not exactly sure what functions you can control. I know you should be able to tighten up and loosen your tension knobs.
Hello, I put up a free download-able file in this video link. Check the video and the description for the free file. Let me know if you have any questions. ruclips.net/video/p6V2U9pcDT4/видео.html
I STRUGGLE WITH TENSION, IT'S SOOO FRUSTRATING... I'm going to try this with the bottom tension to see if it makes a difference. Hopefully this will. Thanks for the help.
I was going insane. Found your video and life is back to normal. Thank you so much!!
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve been struggling with tension issues and thread breaks for 2 years! I can’t believe something this simple fixed it. Thank you, thank you and thank you!
I've been attending your classes for the past 2 years & have learned enough to be confident in buying my 1501. You are a natural Teacher! Thank you so much
Thank you very much for the message. Im glad the videos are useful.
You are a lifesaver. We have been struggling and this video helped us a lot. Thank you!
Thank you! Your explanations are so perfectly clear. I wish the tension dials had a digital readout so we could write down the best tension “number” for each type of thread and set it back and forth in a few seconds. I know it will vary but it’d get us close enough to only make slight adjustments. This guessing game is so frustrating and time consuming.
Hey romero,i just purchased new multi needle, i had breaking threads,bobbin issues, you name it i was going crazy!!!!!. i done everything as per your instructions,(without the bobbin machine).and now,GREAT GREAT GREAT!!!!! im so happy.so many thanks for your informative videos.colin...in UK.
Thanks for sharing!!
All I can say is thank you so much for suggesting the Towa Sewing L-Style Thread Bobbin Case Tension Gauge TM-1. I was having bobbin tension. I just couldn't get it correct on my own. But, when I used the tension gauge, it was like magic. My tension is back to the way it was when I first received my Ricoma 1501. Again, thank you. Btw, I did use your link when I purchased the gauge.
Wonderful News! Im glad you were able to dial in your tension,
Thanks! This really helped me to get my new Rev/Hon machine going. It came without the tensions properly set.
Great to hear!
I just got my first commercial style machine. It’s much older than this but wow.. I can tell your channel is going to be so helpful. Thank you!
Thank you!
Dude, You're my hero!! I wish that you lived in Minnesota.
I bought the bobbin case gauge and did everything you said and my machine has never ran better!! Thank you for explaining it and teaching it so well. 🫡
Thank you for sharing, I’m glad it helped!!
Thanks so much for this video! Can you examine the top tension with the tension gauge? I never realized that you had to make the knobs above the needles flush.
There is a different gauge for the top tension, but I am not a fan of that tension gauge. I prefer the bobbin Towa gauge. As far as the knobs being flush, thats a good starting point, then eventually you can make adjustments as your tensions fluctuate.
@@RomeroThreads thanks so much this is very helpful! I really like the idea of having different bobbins for different projects. Love your videos!
I'm looking to purchase a used Ricoma today! I really appreciate your videos! I'm learning so much! I live in Northern Illinois too.
I have a used ricoma tc 1501 we are upgrading so we are planning to sell it soon we are in CA But willing to ship it
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, helpful and explanatory! Thank you!!
thanx you this was very helpful can you do a side flag to see if it come straight plis I'm having that problem they don't go put straight i don't know why
i just followed your technique...its my new machine....i just said to hell with it...reset is all...been making test stitches...within 3 test runs,,i got it real nice..its good practice because im hooping 2 layers of 2.5 ounce cut away....and i get to see what bad hooping does when i didnt make it tight enough....do u think i should hoop 3 layers of cut away backing..or should 2 layers 2.5 ounce be good enough for all test?
This video helped me a lot bro...so far your content has been treating me well...i got hatch 3.(your advice).stopped using chroma until i get more resources,,,,i refuse to learn chroma by making video conferences every time i get stuck...i took 1 a step back by just buying hatch 3 to get 3 steps forward and learn the basics faster....
My first test run on tension i had 2 needle breaks...loose threads....now they look so dam pretty and tight hahahahah..aw man...im mad grown with gray beard happy at tight stitches....hahahahha you couldnt tell me 5 years ago i would have this machine...hahahah///// keep the content comimg////
I was having all sorts of issues with my machine and tension and long tails. Using your video I was able to reset my machine for proper tension to a good base line for flats and eliminated the tail issue I was having. Thank you so much for providing a great video and explaining things!!
This is awesome, thank you for sharing!
Only a nightmare if you use a Ricoma machine haha ok small joke from a Tajima user, but seriously as a machine operator you should not be concerned if someone touched the tension, you change the thread, you need to adjust and check, you change thread brand, type, or even every day of operation you should be checking the tension! You change the bobbin, then you need to check again both bottom and top tensions. Sorry I only saw the first 20 seconds of your video but I still had to comment as I could see where you were going with it. Tension is not a set and forget mentality, it’s meant to be monitored. Last of all, best keep people out of your machine room anyway 😅
I did exactly what you demonstrated, and it works very well for towels and sweatshirts but when I change to stitching vinyl with titanium needles I have constant thread breaks. Is there an easy way to vary from one substrate to another?
This is great. 2 questions.
1. when you are doing the reading and insert the bobbin to the TOWA, do you put the bobbin thread in the pig tail? or out?
2. When Bobbin is in the TOWA you say so its pulling clock wise? Is that how you run on machine? I have had running clock wise but someone told me to run it counter clock wise? Does it matter which way? Thanks
Once again, a very good class. Great tutorial, informative, clear and straightforward. Thank you.
Would you happen to know if the Towa DIGITAL tension gauge would use the same guidelines of tension you mention for hats and flats ? Or would they be different numbers?
I have been looking for a video like this. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Oh man, where were you 2 months ago where I was struggling for 3 weeks with my tensions when I first got my new machine xD I then bought the Towa tension gauge and MAN. What a world of difference that made. Still an amazing guide on how to reset my tensions. I might actually do that. Do you need to do this periodically?
@Shrimpy…I feel your pain! I was literally in tears today!
Can you use the towa gauge for the top tension?? If so, do you have a video??
This is the best video ever
Romero, I am looking into a Ricoma unit. I am currently using an Highland 1501, Great machine, I have operated Tajima and SWF, Happy and Melco as well. My question to you is what is the cause of a thread pulling away from the needle after the cutting? it seems like a tension issue but the bobbin looks great and i can only figure it is coming from the thread cone its self as not every color does this. Any ideas. Thanks
Can you help solve the problem of cutting the thread too short?
Because my machine all ways started the thread 🧵 Remove from the needle.
Thanks! I took a screenshot of your notes because they were very detailed and helpful. One question I have is can you please explain what you mean by the 'top tension is equivalent to 3x the bottom tension' ? Does this mean when resetting the machine and adjusting the upper tension, you should turn the top tension once and the bottom 3 times? I get confused about how to adjust the top and bottom tensions and how much I should turn each one. Any advice you can give will be greatly appreciated!
Yes, thank you for the message. What im saying is, you can either turn the top knob 1 turn, or turn the bottom knob 3 turns to get the same outcome. The bottom knob is to fine tune your tension. The top knob is to make major change.
@@RomeroThreads Ohh, I see. Thanks for the clarification and quick response!!
Thanks! This video really help me understand my tension on my machine!
@Romero Threads Thank you for this video! This and others you’ve posted have helped me. I’ve had my machine for a month and struggle with the tension. I kept getting birds nests! I was so frustrated!!😤😤😤I rethreaded and still had problems. It even got to the point where I semi dismantled my bobbin housing to clean out a bird’s nest😤😤😤I was too through! That happened today!!! Afterwards I rethreaded my troubled spots and finally was able to pull off a tension test. I had to stop the machine periodically during testing to rethread yet another needle😔Finally, I made it through! Now I can actually see my problem areas! Unfortunately, I don’t have a Towa gauge but just added one to my Amazon cart!😊You mentioned you use separate bobbins for your flats and hats. Whenever you switch your bobbins out, do you adjust your tension as well? Do you always reset it so the knobs and screws are flushed? And what type of bobbin were you using in this video?
Thank you for this message. Embroidery is a complex idea with so many variables that it can be overwhelming when something goes wrong. The more you troubleshoot the more you understand how everything depends on each other on the thread path.
As far as changing tension, once I set my tensions, I probably go months before I have to make any major tensions to my bobbin tension. I use needles 1-9 for hats and those needles use a tension set for 3d puff hats. Needles 10-15 use a different bobbin used for flats (polos, beanies, towels). That way, when I change the bobbin housing I don't have to adjust anything.
Hopefully this makes sense. Keep practicing and once you got it dialed in, it's soo much fun.
@@RomeroThreads Thank you for your response! I will definitely use the instructions you provided here. I’m looking forward to being where you are!😊
@Romero Threads Running my second tension test for the day. I reset all the knobs, ran the test, and was able to see who needed what. Now all look sweet except for one and I know exactly what to do to correct it thanks to you! Much gratitude!🙏🏾
Thank you this has been a struggle for me
Thank you for the informative video I needed it
Thank you!
How do you do the I test?? I sure could use your help.
Thank you for this video. Great information and very well explained.
How do I select 6 threads to run the tension test. I'm trying to do my first 3D and it's bird nesting bad. Can you help?
Hi, what is the right bobbin tension for embroidering on soft leather? (material thickness 1mm. thanks !!
thank you, so match for your help
Cool info
Can you please do one for the EM1010? I love your videos by the way, thank you for helping so many people.
Yes, great idea. I might have to find someone with an em1010.
@@RomeroThreadslol 😆. I recently bought one, and still learning.
There is lot of thread breaks on my ricoma em1010 even during i test what to do?
In the towa digital what should bobbin tension be for hats in gf?
Romero, I am having so much trouble with all of my tensioners , not all of them pull the same , and don't know why . tried everything , new needle , different thread and re-thread one hundred time ... I just don't get it . from ground zero it should all pull the same but it doesn't ... please advises , thanks
Hey Romero, another great video. My question is where can I download the I test file from?
I'll post a download here in a bit. I'll put the link here in the description later today, thanks.
Hello which hoop do you use to do a tension test
i am learning, is this the bobbin that came with the matachin?
Yes, if you buy another one, make sure its size L.
Confused on putting thread in bobbin case. Shouldn't move counter clockwise when you pull or clockwise? Other videos I've seen it moves counter clockwise
Bobbin has to turn clockwise when you pull the bobbin thread.
How do you set the machine to do the eye tension test. You didn't say what to set the machine
I am sorry to bother you, but what size of thread that you use on the bobbin?
No problem, I use L Size bobbins.
This was incredibly helpful! Thanks so much!
Thank you!!
Wonderful video!! I just have one question, which tension Knob ( top or bottom) do I move to see a difference in my tension test?
The top tension is for big changes, the bottom knob is for minor changes. 1 top spin equals to 3 bottom knob spins. Let me know if that makes sense.
If my bobbin thread is showing on the top, how do I fix it?
What speed did you run this test at. Great info so far for this rookie.
You want to run it at the speed you run most designs. I would run it at 700 which is where im mostly at.
is puckering the result of a bad digitizing or too much tension..?
I would say it can be 3 things:
1. (most likely) Not enough stabilizer- Thinner garments such as polos require cut away, preferably 2 pieces.
2. Design is dense heavy (too much stitches for the garment). Sometimes, backing can help.
3. Can be a digitize problem. Ideally, designs should be digitized center out & bottom up.
Usually tension issues will produce loose threads, bird nesting if too loose or thread breaks, and bobbin showing if too tight.
Hello, What's your thoughts on magnetic bobbins? Thanks in advaance.
Yes, I’m a big fan of magnetic bobbins. Thats all we use.
@@RomeroThreads The magnetic portion ( Dark Color) goes in first?
how do you run the I test
Hola y si tenemos la que es digital.que numero seria?
For flats, 150 is the same for the digital Towa tension gauge? Ty!!
Yes 👍🏽
Hi Romero .my name is seife from seattle .i have MT1501 i bought from RiComa over a year ..am have issues still practicing ..and i was watching almust all your traning when i was in Ethiopia for over your but am back 5 months ago ..still i need help can you pls help ?
My design is out of the hoop area my 1010ricona machine panel is different from yours canyou help me please.
Should all lines on the tension screws be pointing same way or does that matter?
It doesn't matter. Some threads are going to require more tension, sometimes the color and the weight of the thread can change the tension settings.
Hey Romero! I have a Ricoma MT-1502 and I have a problem that no one can solve. After a few steps, he can no longer catch the thread from the spool. so far I have received the answer that it is due to the tension of the splints, but the splints are 100% well tensioned. I've been working on this machine for a few years, I know how to properly tension the splints. any other opinion? If you want I can send you a private video to see more clearly what it is about. Thank you in advance!
Is this on all needles?
@Romero Threads Hey! Thank for replying. Yes, it's happening on all needles ..
If its all needles then its most likely something is off on the bobbin. Double check, make sure its all set up good.
@@RomeroThreads thanks!
How you do those embroidery lines to see the baking for the eye test?
I made a video here how I made the I test.
ruclips.net/video/p6V2U9pcDT4/видео.html
What about tension on caps? How are you doing that?
I use the same concept. I like to run an I test with 3D foam since thats how I usually run my hats.
What to do if needle not reaching design?
Thank you so much!!!
You're welcome!
After I reset the top tension , do I tighten it little by little to get it right?
I’m rookie just got my machine
It all depends on your initial I test stitch out. If there is no bobbin on a single sample then tighten up the top tension. And if theres too much bobbin on a single sample then loosen up the top tension.
@@RomeroThreads thank you and one last question ,
I’m doing a cap but not puff 3d is it still the same in the bobbin gauge 225-250?
hey brother what style gauge is that the M or the L? what would you suggest for the 20 needle ricoma
L size.
@@RomeroThreads ty sir , much appreciated
How to do the test in 10s screen ?
Good video
I wish you could come to my house for one on one consultation!
Great video
@Romero Threads
Is that 150gf? I was watching another video and it says it needed to be at 24-25
I use 150 for flats thinner materials and about 225-250 for 3d puff hats.
@@RomeroThreads
I just saw it was Nm I have a digital one and it reads Gf. A quick Google calculator, 250Nm puts it at 115-116 Gf. So it's accurate. Thanks brotha for your videos. It helps more than you know! 🙏🏽
Csn you do a videos for EM1010 please.
Thanks for the message, I don't have a em1010. Im pretty sure running a tension test is very similar. Maybe sometime in the future, i'll link up w/ someone who owns a 1010 or other machines and make more videos on tension and set up.
@@RomeroThreads thank you
My Ricoma tension knows are sealed m-1010 what to do?
I haven't used the 1010 so I am not exactly sure what functions you can control. I know you should be able to tighten up and loosen your tension knobs.
Hi, I have seem to have erased the tension test on my machine. Do you know where I can download that?
Hello, I put up a free download-able file in this video link. Check the video and the description for the free file. Let me know if you have any questions.
ruclips.net/video/p6V2U9pcDT4/видео.html
Good video thanks
I STRUGGLE WITH TENSION, IT'S SOOO FRUSTRATING... I'm going to try this with the bottom tension to see if it makes a difference. Hopefully this will. Thanks for the help.
Is that the L bobbin guage or the M?
L
@@RomeroThreads is there a download for the test stitch is dst.?
yes, here's the link. I'll post it in the description also.
drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1iJb1Y4DAgSHpwEx2nYoOj9za3L4Ln86y
How about on the em
1010
Should be the same concept. Tensions are universal settings on embroidery machines.
hola tengo una ricomA DE 15 AGUJAS Y NO ME CORTA EL HILO QUE SUELEPASAR ESO GRACIAS
Hola, puede ser que abajo del needle plate, tiene algo atravado. Tienes que ver si el navaja esta connectada bien en ese area tambien.
muchas gracias ,,que grasa me recomienda,
tengo lubricante que trajo la maquina ,,pero no se cual grasa puedo usar,me recomiendas una please
Este video te puede ayudar. Es de otro compania pero tiene partes similar.
ruclips.net/video/4J8HtW-pue4/видео.html
How do I run the i test on mt 1501,
Its stitching the letter I in a satin stitch and analyzing the backside. I'll post a downloadable file in a bit to run the test.
Man, I just got home, and looked at my Ricoma EM-1010 and the tension knobs don't look anything like this.