that is wicked cool! wanted to build a hot rod with 5.4! with the right valve covers it would look like a old school engine! love the carb and dizzy. belt drive looks like a good way to go. i was going to use the cam end bolt. efi is for soft folks. love it! you can get full Manuel valve body for the trans. mr shift makes a kit to convert the oe one. for the dizzy drive it off the end of the cam. has a bolt on it from memory. can not remember if the valve covers are aluminum. think sum wear and sum wear not. .
I'm leaning towards running the distributor off the cam myself. I've got a mill and a lathe now, so if I can get a good, flat, perpendicular datum on the head, I may just drill out the valve cover, add a mounting boss, and do it that way. Also, where did you find a manual valve body conversion kit? I've found plenty of shift kits for the 4r100 that retain the electronic transmission controller, a few stand-alone trans controllers, and full-on replacement valve bodies, but I never saw a kit to convert the OE valve body to work without an electronic TCU. If you can link to it, that would be a great boon!
@@DerrangedGadgeteer thought that it was a 4r75w/e my mistake. thy make a kit for that trans to mod the OE valve body. wonder if the OE TCM will work with just a tach signal and TPS? As for dizzy would mod the top of the HEI to accept the screw down cap from the 1980s/1990s corvette HEI. that big heavy cap is a lot of weight for the L hooks to hold with it mounted horizontal.
It's back-burnered at the moment. Turns out, the reason the donor vehicle was in the junk yard was because of a broken timing chain and a bunch of bent valves. (Yeah, I'm a bit of a dingus for not checking) So I'm on the lookout for another junkyard motor with at least one good head to replace it. And once that's found, I'm thinking about scrapping the belt-drive distributor idea... Instead drilling out a valve cover to run the dizzy off the cam. And barring that, I've been told that apparently early-gen mod motor ignition controllers will run headless, (that is... Give it 12v and sensors, and it gives you sparky sparky, no muss no fuss)
Dude, you're overthinking it. This is awesome, but you should've just gotten a speeduino for engine control and a microsquirt for trans control. Also, the 4r75e/w is a better performance trans than the 4r100.
Indeed I am. The main point of doing it this way is "just because" and to show it's possible. Y'know, to show people that if you pipe air and fuel down these holes, and put high voltage across these contacts sometimes, you get vroo Vroom's. Also: a speeduino, and a microsquirt would cost more than I paid for the truck, the motor, the trans, and maybe the front suspension too. To say nothing of an all-in-one system.
@@BrockJaden yep. ~300 for the motor, (which turned out to be full of a broken timing chain and bent valves) ~150 for the trans, ~250 for the suspension, and the truck was a free "get it out of my yard" junker.
Hello, I just subbed. I noticed that you are into metal casting and machining, which is great for a project like this but sometimes aluminum just pours too thick to get the detail you need. Have you tried ZAMAK 8, it is a very high-strength zinc alloy that pours like iron, is as strong as iron but melts at about 900 degrees. You can buy it from Rotometals for about 20 dollars for four pounds. Also, look up a picture of an old BMW V12 engine, the one with distributers, and see how they are running them off of the end of the cams. You just might be able to pull that off if the long belt is a problem, another idea is to move it under the intake manifold and run a remote electric water pump.
Thanks a bunch for the sub! As far as Zamak, I have heard of it, but I'm not really past melting down scrap as far as foundry practices go. The problems I'm dealing with are along the lines of "My crucible isn't big enough to fill this mold." And "How can I get this oil burner lit without smoking out the whole county?" Though, do you know offhand how Zamak does in a steel crucible? I can't use my aluminum castings for structural purposes if I use my steel crucibles because liquid aluminum dissolves iron, and upon cooling the iron forms nodular inclusions in the casting. Running the distributor off the cams would be very ideal, but until very recently I haven't had the equipment to drill and finish bosses in the valve covers with the required precision. Indeed, as I told another commenter, one of the reasons there hasn't been progress on this is because I couldn't line up holes for the jackshaft bearings well enough with just dividers and a drill press. Now that I've got the equipment, the F100 is back on the front burner... ...Along with like two other cars and half a dozen other projects of course.
Why thank you sir! But to answer your question, no. I'm primarily a Mopar Man. Though I'm not one of those brand fanboys, and anything that's cool will interest me. This is my only Ford project right now.
Not yet. It's not abandoned though. Ran into problems with the jackshaft assembly, having a hard time getting the back support plate lined up perfectly with the main mount plate. Fortunately, I now have a milling machine and I can do it right. Unfortunately, I did a bit more tearing down of the motor and found it was in the junkyard because of a broken timing chain. So I expect the Pistons and valves may have gotten a little too friendly with each other. So: this waits patiently while I fool around with my machine shop, and it's also gotten cut ahead of by the Big Block '63 Valiant build. (Because I've actually heard THAT engine run)
Yeah. When I embarked on this project, I'd envisioned the swap going like an LS... -Save the ECM, wiring harness, and the other bits and bobs -Hook up +12v and ground where they need to go, hook up necessary sensors, and snip off everything else. -Do the work of actually installing the engine, get the truck running and driving on the stock tune, and make incremental upgrades from there. Except it didn't go like that... Of course. How silly of me to think the ECM would work without the trans controller and the body control module hooked up! I mean, the engine obviously can't run without the airbag system, the ABS, and the daytime running lights all in order. 🤔
@@stellingbanjodude It would absolutely work. And much better and easier than what I'm doing too. I'm just a stubborn little kermudgeon, and I want to be able to say "I put a carburetor and a distributor from 60 years ago onto this modern motor, and it runs great!" That, and I feel there's a certain mystique around engines in general, and modern, computer controlled engines in particular. I wanna demonstrate that it doesn't really matter what engine, new or old: You put air and fuel down these holes, put a high voltage across these connections, and *vroom*
that is wicked cool! wanted to build a hot rod with 5.4! with the right valve covers it would look like a old school engine! love the carb and dizzy. belt drive looks like a good way to go. i was going to use the cam end bolt. efi is for soft folks. love it! you can get full Manuel valve body for the trans. mr shift makes a kit to convert the oe one. for the dizzy drive it off the end of the cam. has a bolt on it from memory. can not remember if the valve covers are aluminum. think sum wear and sum wear not. .
I'm leaning towards running the distributor off the cam myself. I've got a mill and a lathe now, so if I can get a good, flat, perpendicular datum on the head, I may just drill out the valve cover, add a mounting boss, and do it that way.
Also, where did you find a manual valve body conversion kit? I've found plenty of shift kits for the 4r100 that retain the electronic transmission controller, a few stand-alone trans controllers, and full-on replacement valve bodies, but I never saw a kit to convert the OE valve body to work without an electronic TCU. If you can link to it, that would be a great boon!
@@DerrangedGadgeteer thought that it was a 4r75w/e my mistake. thy make a kit for that trans to mod the OE valve body. wonder if the OE TCM will work with just a tach signal and TPS? As for dizzy would mod the top of the HEI to accept the screw down cap from the 1980s/1990s corvette HEI. that big heavy cap is a lot of weight for the L hooks to hold with it mounted horizontal.
Any progress on the build would love to see it running
It's back-burnered at the moment. Turns out, the reason the donor vehicle was in the junk yard was because of a broken timing chain and a bunch of bent valves. (Yeah, I'm a bit of a dingus for not checking) So I'm on the lookout for another junkyard motor with at least one good head to replace it.
And once that's found, I'm thinking about scrapping the belt-drive distributor idea... Instead drilling out a valve cover to run the dizzy off the cam. And barring that, I've been told that apparently early-gen mod motor ignition controllers will run headless, (that is... Give it 12v and sensors, and it gives you sparky sparky, no muss no fuss)
Dude, you're overthinking it. This is awesome, but you should've just gotten a speeduino for engine control and a microsquirt for trans control.
Also, the 4r75e/w is a better performance trans than the 4r100.
Indeed I am. The main point of doing it this way is "just because" and to show it's possible. Y'know, to show people that if you pipe air and fuel down these holes, and put high voltage across these contacts sometimes, you get vroo Vroom's.
Also: a speeduino, and a microsquirt would cost more than I paid for the truck, the motor, the trans, and maybe the front suspension too. To say nothing of an all-in-one system.
@@DerrangedGadgeteer You paid less than 700 for all of that???
I thought I had it good with my 99 f150 that I got for 500...
@@BrockJaden yep. ~300 for the motor, (which turned out to be full of a broken timing chain and bent valves) ~150 for the trans, ~250 for the suspension, and the truck was a free "get it out of my yard" junker.
WHERE DID YOU GET THE INTAKE MANIFOLD FOR YOUR ENGINE??????
I MADE IT OUT OF 10MM PLATE, SHEET METAL, AND EXHAUST TUBING!!!!!!
Hello, I just subbed.
I noticed that you are into metal casting and machining, which is great for a project like this but sometimes aluminum just pours too thick to get the detail you need. Have you tried ZAMAK 8, it is a very high-strength zinc alloy that pours like iron, is as strong as iron but melts at about 900 degrees. You can buy it from Rotometals for about 20 dollars for four pounds.
Also, look up a picture of an old BMW V12 engine, the one with distributers, and see how they are running them off of the end of the cams. You just might be able to pull that off if the long belt is a problem, another idea is to move it under the intake manifold and run a remote electric water pump.
Thanks a bunch for the sub! As far as Zamak, I have heard of it, but I'm not really past melting down scrap as far as foundry practices go.
The problems I'm dealing with are along the lines of "My crucible isn't big enough to fill this mold." And "How can I get this oil burner lit without smoking out the whole county?"
Though, do you know offhand how Zamak does in a steel crucible? I can't use my aluminum castings for structural purposes if I use my steel crucibles because liquid aluminum dissolves iron, and upon cooling the iron forms nodular inclusions in the casting.
Running the distributor off the cams would be very ideal, but until very recently I haven't had the equipment to drill and finish bosses in the valve covers with the required precision.
Indeed, as I told another commenter, one of the reasons there hasn't been progress on this is because I couldn't line up holes for the jackshaft bearings well enough with just dividers and a drill press.
Now that I've got the equipment, the F100 is back on the front burner...
...Along with like two other cars and half a dozen other projects of course.
You can get a manual valve body for the transmission
You can? For a 4r100? Where? I found plenty for the 4r70w, but 4r100 stuff is scarce by comparison.
Ar you on any other ford truck pages are you on face book. Like yor build bump nation is great one
Why thank you sir! But to answer your question, no. I'm primarily a Mopar Man. Though I'm not one of those brand fanboys, and anything that's cool will interest me. This is my only Ford project right now.
I'm a ford guy like some Chevy Stuf and some. Mopar mostly ford
Bad ass
Did you finish this?
Not yet. It's not abandoned though. Ran into problems with the jackshaft assembly, having a hard time getting the back support plate lined up perfectly with the main mount plate.
Fortunately, I now have a milling machine and I can do it right.
Unfortunately, I did a bit more tearing down of the motor and found it was in the junkyard because of a broken timing chain. So I expect the Pistons and valves may have gotten a little too friendly with each other.
So: this waits patiently while I fool around with my machine shop, and it's also gotten cut ahead of by the Big Block '63 Valiant build. (Because I've actually heard THAT engine run)
💪👍💯
Um, um, um, um um. Um um
Um uhh... Umm.
Ummm
Ummm? Ummm
Ummm
People are always asking why LS swaps are so common. These issues are why
Yeah. When I embarked on this project, I'd envisioned the swap going like an LS...
-Save the ECM, wiring harness, and the other bits and bobs
-Hook up +12v and ground where they need to go, hook up necessary sensors, and snip off everything else.
-Do the work of actually installing the engine, get the truck running and driving on the stock tune, and make incremental upgrades from there.
Except it didn't go like that... Of course. How silly of me to think the ECM would work without the trans controller and the body control module hooked up! I mean, the engine obviously can't run without the airbag system, the ABS, and the daytime running lights all in order. 🤔
@@DerrangedGadgeteer would a Holley Efi setup not work?
@@stellingbanjodude It would absolutely work. And much better and easier than what I'm doing too.
I'm just a stubborn little kermudgeon, and I want to be able to say "I put a carburetor and a distributor from 60 years ago onto this modern motor, and it runs great!"
That, and I feel there's a certain mystique around engines in general, and modern, computer controlled engines in particular. I wanna demonstrate that it doesn't really matter what engine, new or old: You put air and fuel down these holes, put a high voltage across these connections, and *vroom*
Um
just buy a holly Terminator for it.
No