Thanks, Sir, was pretty informative and I grew up with Mom's brand new 74 karman Ghia I even went with to pick the car up from dealership but she eventually sold it in late 90s to some kid whom wanted to rebuild it's body bc it had like 70K mileage on it only but I never asked her if she ever saw that guy again and yes she's still alive and kicking yet still today.
I'm a beginner technician and I build my bug up. You helped me over come alot of tasks. I can't thank you enough. Recently got a pro street flyer trans.
your videos always improve my attitude. Thanks! Currently building a baja with a type 4 motor (which was given to me due to Karma) and converting it to an upright from scratch no store bought stuff, just to see if it will work. Thanks for the motivation to experiment!
Alot of great information. Can't wait to see what and how much you gain. Thanks for taking the time to experiment. Alot of us don't have the parts to do what you do
It won't amount to squat. As soon as they unlock us I'm putting a good engine and hit the road. You need to get out in your garage and get that pile running my friend. I need a ridding partner. You see any parts around my place that would help? You got my number and no how to get here. (Wear a Mask) hehehe
I don't think it will make it last longer. Quite the opposite unless your careful and conservative. Almost all power Mods will shorten the life of a stock engine but if it gives you more pleasure while it's alive then it's a good thing. There's an old saying: If you don't mind, it don't matter
I'm glad this channel existed ,it gives us a heads up on parts If it is a good thing to get yourself or not, and this channel guided me on my warmed up 1679 build :)
Yeah one of my favorite parts! Haha! LOOOOOVE your videos. You are just a very honest and like able dude. THANK YOU for your fantastic advice! I have a great place for that aluminum flywheel!!! I have a fully balanced 1776, welded balanced fan, titanium retainers, and sweet flowing heads with the 1.25 rockers. Hahaha! Thanks for your advice man. Really is appreciated! You love your stuff for sure.
Hey Gary it was another pleasure to watch a few videos back to back! I noticed in the background a harbor freight tire machine, what a great piece of affordable equipment:) i would love to see your experience with a amr500 supercharger on a stock motor, for 150 bucks and a little fab work and tuning they are the best bang for the buck for power improvement:) as far as chrome goes I've always heard and said myself chrome don't get ya home but billet won't kill it, I have since heard a new saying that made me laugh, chrome don't get ya home but it will get ya dome. Hope that gives ya a little chuckle:) keep on doing what you do and keep the great info coming out for all the Volkswagen enthusiasts that come to watch you for a Volkswagen sermon or just a laugh:) stay safe and keep the wheels spinning and the beavers grinnin!
I can't get the stock crap to work right 1/2 the time. I don't want to start fighting with a $$$ supercharger. I've only seen those in Australia. I wish that old Dick Landy set up had set up for a weber instead of a Holley
@@TheEZGZ look at some of my videos, I bought an amr500 for 140 bucks if I remember correctly, used a stock intake and made some adapters and even used a single kadron but as you know they were designed to feed 2 cylinders not 4 but i have seen some people use stock carbs on top and have great success:) but I hear ya just one more thing to complicate our simple little motors
I’ve learned more about VW carbs from you than anyone else. I got one of my bugs out of the garage it’s been in for years and back on the road, 2 more to go. Still riding my Harleys though.
Thanks EZ. Once again I have learned a few things. My parts collection is pretty vast as well. Most I which I have just bought in big parts buys and don't have any personal experience with. I have found some real gems in the junk I have and have found some real duds as well.
Space is a premium. I spent $8,500 in storage fee's to keep a bunch of greasy grimey transmissions and parts only to find out much of it was worn out or some little thing missing. Now, I would rather have the space. Friends expect me to give them spare parts and get mad if I don't . Horrding old VW parts is a waste of time and space IMHO. It is a lot of fun to look threw trying to find a gold nugget or two. hehehehe
@@TheEZGZ I have spent that a few times over. I hope to move out of the extra space I rent for $550 a month this year. Only bonus was I could also work in the space I rented. Now I have purchased the house next door to mine and use that as my garage and work shop. At least I'm not throwing it away in rent anymore.
Another great video. Small suggestion: a lot of young enthusiast have no knowledge that we drag from the days VW bugs were just used cars. These youngsters have no patience for long videos, perhaps you should make few on the subject, but shorter ones.
I think your the one that has little patience and I see you have never posted a video. If I'm not having fun making a video and reliving my past whats the point of making a video. Small suggestion: Don't spend so much time watching and start doing....
Give me a real light car or buggy and a well built big bore 40...lots of fun to be had and dependable too. Well stated on the conundrum of enough carb heat and aftermarket exhaust. Decisions decisions decisions. Great channel EZ!!!
QUESTION, on the heat risers. Sometimes when you buy a different exhaust the heat risers are not drilled out. Is it better to drill one heat Riser smaller then the other.? This creates a low pressure causing the flow in One Direction. Or is it better to drill the heat risers both the same size?
Hi EZGZ, new to your channel and really love it! Thank you. Do you remember the single twin choke Niki carbs for 1600cc. I remember back in the late 70s we would add a hot air pickup to the air filter. I.e. capture exhaust heat to heat up incoming air. It really helped. Also would you be so kind to let me know the name or brand of seat you are using the buggy. Many thanks, Roman
Never heard of Niki carbs. Hard to get clean warm air intake that looks nice when hanging off the back of a buggy. Those seats are over 25 years old Beard suspension seats
Thx for the tips on the flywheel. The shop I order at claims that the cheaper cast iron will work only if you use a seal with a single lip. One with a double lip used on these flywheel will cause oil leaks, because the rounding on the flywheel starts earlier , causing extra wear on the seal .... I only have a stock one, and not the other one (yet), so I cannot compare the roundings ...
Nice video. I’ve been pondering running oil through my center mount with Dellorto 40 drla. I may try it someday. Or by then maybe I’ll find a dual set up I can refurbish and try. Going to try some little things on my 1641 for fun until I build a bigger engine. And a question you’ve been asked probably more times then you can count. Out of all the engines and camshafts you have ran what Camshaft and engine combo has been your favorite. Loaded question I know!!! Thanks For keeping me entertained!! Randy L Peterson
I always appreciate an honest opinion. After helping part time at a Race engine shop for 20 plus years the seat of the pants meter is usually better then the dyno sheet. Seen a lot of Engines run good on the dyno but not worth a Darn in the car. Been thinking of building a 1915 with my old 041 heads. Kinda like the specs on the Web 163 cam. Or a scat c35. Or as I have learned ask 100 people what they like for a Camshaft you will get 100 different answers ha ha. I’ve read Engle 110 cam too big. Engle cam too mild. At then end of the day it comes down to a quality assembly and guy doing the tune and adjustments. Have a great week and I enjoy your videos. Randy L Peterson
Me gusto mucho su video estoy por rebajar el peso de mi aro dentado para un 1800cc 88piston cigueñal 74 etc y ya e visto varios videos suyos ya me subscribi... saludos de monterreyMexico
Man, are you a prime example of a U Tube coward in full swing. A big mouth and afraid to show your face or post a helpful video. Some folks pay money to go to movie theaters to watch a movie. Not everyone leaves liking the movie.
Are you in the Northern part of Colorado? I'm in weld and I have a Dp 1600 stocker in a Baja bug. I have a million questions and your video just skimmed the surface of questions
EZ, how are you? Got curious when you were talking flywheels... when you're changing a 6V bug to a 12V and you change the flywheel, does the old pressure plate bolt up to the new flywheel?
Nope. it also won't fit in a stock 6 volt transmission unless you clearance the bell housing. You will also need a 12volt starting motor and smaller starter bushing to hold it in the bell housing
Hi Gary, I have a stock flywheel and I have noticed a very slight oil leak by shining a torch behind the flywheel you can just see in there and I can see a bit of oil put it doesn't trip through the bellhousing, My question is, is it worth taking the flywheel and changing the oil seals as you say on this video that the stock flywheel will always have a slight leak, Thanks you 👍
Hey EZGZ, Thanks for the great videos, question: you made reference to heat risers, when you upgrade your exhaust sometimes the heat riser do not have holes in the heat risers and you have to drill them yourself. Is it better to drill one heat riser hole smaller than the other side? This creates a low pressure on the smaller hole side and the flow of exhaust in one direction. Or is it better to have both heat riser holes the some size? Thanks again.
I finally found a answer on the heat risers hole size. Stock exhaust has a long heat riser tube and a short in the exhaust itself self. The short side gets the smaller hole. A good exhaust gasket set will have two heat riser gaskets . One smaller size and one larger. Smaller gasket to the short side .
Why compare it and who cares if you’re not racing and just after a little more pep. Besides ALL 4 into one exhaust’s have clearance and fitting issues. Plan on avoiding most speed bumps. I guess there’s a trade off with everything. PEACE
Hey man I getting ready for a cross country trip in my baja bug. Right now have a stock 1600 with a stringer exhaust 38/38 Weber dg I just put on but needs smaller jet tho so I got me a holley 2110 I've been wanting try. Have you ever used one on any of your builts? And if so how did they run
DO NOT EXPERIMENT FOR A CROSS COUNTRY RUN. Keep it STOCK and save your experimenting for close to home until you work the bugs out.. Have a safe trip. I did 10k miles in one year a while back. Had a few hickup's away from home. Not fun.....
If your planning on owning it and driving it 100k miles I would keep them all the same. www.cbperformance.com/Super-Stock-Rocker-Arm-Complete-Kit-1-25-1-Ratio-p/1685.htm
I would do a compression test on all 4 cylinders as long as you have the plugs out. That will tell you a lot. Try a hotter spark plug. Make sure your ignition system is good, Points, Cap, Rotor, plug wires Valve guides go slightly downhill and even when worn don't suck much oil. Will give you a blue smoke puff when you shift. If you some extra money it's always nice to freshen up your engine and get it all clean and shiny
Hey EZGZ, I have a 1974 Volkswagen Thing. When I first start it up, the engine run 5 minutes. Then it’s sounds like it want to died. Then the engine shut off. What can it be. A carburetor problem or timing problem. Thank you
Basic troubleshooting. EVERYTHING! Plugs, points, wires, coil, compression, Choke linkage and adjustment. If it's all stock I would take a close look at your choke. It might not be releasing and opening up. Sometimes coils fail when they are hot and then work when they are cold.
I have no personal experience but those folks at ACN are pretty sharp. If you follow there instructions and they jet it for you it will probably work fine. Let us know how you like it please
Would not having a heating pipe on the inlet manifold cause flooding at hot starts. Freezing the fuel then melting into the cylinders after the engine is turned off.
Yes and if it sits long enough it will get in the cylinders and wash away the oil on the bottom of the cylinders and ruin your rings along with diluting your engine oil. It will run like a bat out of hell at WOT on a warm day. Thats why all the race cars use them in the Baja 1000 and then throw the engine away!
it don't cost nothing to pay attention!!! Been there done that watch my old vids. Did it with a Fk7 cam called it my mystery build. I got 700+ vids. You got some catching up to do son.
Hey EZGZ what is the idea temperature for the intake manifold under the car when driving around? I got a 74 bug last year and put a new to me motor in it. It has a new 34pict 3 carb from empi and a 4-1 header I believe it’s inch and 5/8ths I’m not sure. The intake that was on the motor had the heater ports already sawed off when I got it. The car rarely ever gets more than 10-12 mpg the most I’ve gotten is 20. It has over 60psi at cold idle and goes to less than 20psi when hot. It’s a 1600 dp with a dog house cooler, was an efi case. It has a lightened flywheel already. It has very little bottom end, I have to rev it to at least 2500 to take off. It’s a Baja configuration with 235/75 15 rear tires any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
You have the wrong dizzy. Find a stock one that ends in #205 or buy a new pertronix svda flame thrower with pointless ignition. $150 Also when you buy a used engine your going to get what you pay for. 60-20 psi ????
TheEZGZ I put a new kuhltek svda and new Bosch cool on it after I got it because I didn’t trust the old electronics. It was siting in a dirt floor garage. The old owner had a rail buggy parked outside so I’m assuming it was from that buggy.
@@PBMototsports Who cares it just idling. Don't get caught up in that mine does this and yours does that. My 2 liter with aluminum block has 60 at idle. How did you arrive at 15-20? Is that on your VDO dashboard gauge or an accurate on in place of the oil sender? Do you have the correct springs in the stock oil pressure relief system. Do you have the correct pistons in the oil relief system? The book say's that if you have less than 28 PSI at 2,500 RPM your engine needs to be rebuilt. What weight oil and what is the temp? Who gives a shit? Is this a pissing contest to see who can piss higher on the wall? Listen to me..... Idle oil pressure means nothing to me. If your engine runs good drive it. If you suspect you have problems take it apart and look. Drag racers do this every week or so. When I bought my rail with 2276 it ran great but had oil leaks. I took it all apart and plasti gauged the mains. It was in spec and ran great. I put it all back together and it doesn't leak as bad and I know what I got. If you have concerns with your beloved engine take it apart and LOOK and MEASURE. It a lot of work and PITHA but it feels so good when you know. I did not replace the bearings. They looked great and I put it back together. I'm happy. My 1776 had 18 PSI at idle and I ran it 20 years. (If you don't mind, it don't matter)
Very cool! I wish mine was a authenticated manx. Maybe even one of those full size ones with the curved windsheild. Looking forward to getting it out when the weather warms up.
I have a few questions sir. I have a bone stock 1600cc with the twin exhaust. Which I hear kills HP. Thinking of going with a snorkel exhaust. But question is what can I do to increase HP. What heads can I buy. Not on a budget
Heads are a waste of money on a 1600. If your serious and want to listen by some dual 40 Kadrons with 28mm venturi's New from Kaddie Shack and then look for a 1 3/8 Tube exhaust that you like. Just bolt it on and feel the difference and enjoy it for a while. Think about building a completely separate engine like a Type 1 two liter 78x90.5 with engel 110 or smaller cam. (preferably smaller) Big valve heads are for very high RPM and a waste of money for fun street or offroad engine. Everyone bracket races so who cares anyway. Plus you want your transmission to live a few more years. 80 or 90 HP is great for a stock clutch and a lot of fun and a lot of trouble free miles and smiles.
@@TheEZGZ running a stinger exhaust. Ive always let my car warm up for a few minutes before i drive. At this moment i get between 25 too 30mpg at 25 too 40mph. Still running it in as its all new parts.
Bout to do and 88mm slippin kit over size vavle think 37mm for the intake 35.5mm on the exhaust side and match port my heads and see if I could find some power cones for the exhaust
37 X 35 doesn't sound good. No sense reinventing the wheel. Most common is 40 X 35 . It's tried and true. 88 slip in's only come in A pin height. Works great for 69 crank. IMHO I would do a fluff and buff on stock valve heads. You will have to cut them to 90.5 / 92 but get better flow. Especially if your just doing cones on exhaust. Do what you like and let us know the results. Good Luck with your project
I am rebuilding my 1600. I saw a drop in 1800 kit that does not require any machine work on my block. Do you know anything about it and would it be worth it?
Yes, I built and own it. I did a whole series on my 1800 and called my mystery build. You will still have to buy 90.5 cylinder heads or have yours machined. It is a lot better to build a 1776 IMHO
Ok. I checked jbugs and they have the kit to do it. I just want a motor that can run my ac better than the 1600. I had a 2387 in it but am over having a race car. Just want a good sold motor for every day driver
@@MP-hx8fs 1776 because of the stock cylinder. The 1800 is thicker at top but paper thin at the base to slip in. Screw it. Cut your case!!!!!!! Do what you want. You do not have my blessing on 1800. Been there done that. You will find out the hard way.
I don't think that is was being disrespectful by telling you that a 1776 will be far more reliable than the 1800 kit. If anyone is being disrespectful, it's you, for making that poor air-cooled motor turn an AC compressor. What is wrong with you?! Just kidding : )
@@TheEZGZ we have one with a 1915cc we put in there we luckily got to test drive it before all the corona virus thing it went well with it now it just needs some fine tuning while in lockdown how exciting how's that 1600 dp doing really cool vids and we used a lot of your tips when building our rail
Put on a crash helmet and you wont hear half the tiring noise of your beach buggy, try some on ar your nearest biker store, some fit comfy ithers dont, be sure to get tinted visor for the sun.
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Thanks, Sir, was pretty informative and I grew up with Mom's brand new 74 karman Ghia I even went with to pick the car up from dealership but she eventually sold it in late 90s to some kid whom wanted to rebuild it's body bc it had like 70K mileage on it only but I never asked her if she ever saw that guy again and yes she's still alive and kicking yet still today.
Right on!
I'm a beginner technician and I build my bug up. You helped me over come alot of tasks. I can't thank you enough. Recently got a pro street flyer trans.
Thanks for watching and posting. Good luck with your projects
your videos always improve my attitude. Thanks! Currently building a baja with a type 4 motor (which was given to me due to Karma) and converting it to an upright from scratch no store bought stuff, just to see if it will work. Thanks for the motivation to experiment!
That is awesome!
Alot of great information. Can't wait to see what and how much you gain. Thanks for taking the time to experiment. Alot of us don't have the parts to do what you do
It won't amount to squat. As soon as they unlock us I'm putting a good engine and hit the road. You need to get out in your garage and get that pile running my friend. I need a ridding partner. You see any parts around my place that would help? You got my number and no how to get here. (Wear a Mask) hehehe
@@TheEZGZ that goes both ways. And I'm all ready out I have an essential business things haven't changed for me.
I enjoy every minute Sir! The experience is the most important part of succes... Thanks for another great vid! 👍🇧🇪
As of late I am not experiencing success. I'm waiting to hear from the seller.....
Those are great tips for helping your stock 1600 last and Run longer. Thanks again for sharing another great video. BigW:-)
I don't think it will make it last longer. Quite the opposite unless your careful and conservative. Almost all power Mods will shorten the life of a stock engine but if it gives you more pleasure while it's alive then it's a good thing.
There's an old saying: If you don't mind, it don't matter
Always great info. Glad the ratio rockers helped, I was really wondering how it worked out for you.
Looking forward to the next update.
You and me both!
I'm glad this channel existed ,it gives us a heads up on parts If it is a good thing to get yourself or not, and this channel guided me on my warmed up 1679 build :)
Yeah one of my favorite parts! Haha! LOOOOOVE your videos. You are just a very honest and like able dude. THANK YOU for your fantastic advice! I have a great place for that aluminum flywheel!!! I have a fully balanced 1776, welded balanced fan, titanium retainers, and sweet flowing heads with the 1.25 rockers. Hahaha! Thanks for your advice man. Really is appreciated! You love your stuff for sure.
Glad you like them!
Hey Gary it was another pleasure to watch a few videos back to back! I noticed in the background a harbor freight tire machine, what a great piece of affordable equipment:) i would love to see your experience with a amr500 supercharger on a stock motor, for 150 bucks and a little fab work and tuning they are the best bang for the buck for power improvement:) as far as chrome goes I've always heard and said myself chrome don't get ya home but billet won't kill it, I have since heard a new saying that made me laugh, chrome don't get ya home but it will get ya dome. Hope that gives ya a little chuckle:) keep on doing what you do and keep the great info coming out for all the Volkswagen enthusiasts that come to watch you for a Volkswagen sermon or just a laugh:) stay safe and keep the wheels spinning and the beavers grinnin!
I can't get the stock crap to work right 1/2 the time. I don't want to start fighting with a $$$ supercharger. I've only seen those in Australia. I wish that old Dick Landy set up had set up for a weber instead of a Holley
@@TheEZGZ look at some of my videos, I bought an amr500 for 140 bucks if I remember correctly, used a stock intake and made some adapters and even used a single kadron but as you know they were designed to feed 2 cylinders not 4 but i have seen some people use stock carbs on top and have great success:) but I hear ya just one more thing to complicate our simple little motors
I’ve learned more about VW carbs from you than anyone else. I got one of my bugs out of the garage it’s been in for years and back on the road, 2 more to go. Still riding my Harleys though.
Miss my Harley days....
I’ve learned a lot from watching your videos thanks to the info. I’m new to Vw stuff.
Welcome!, Glad to help. Good Luck with your projects
Greetings from Poland(Europe) :) I really enjoy your films ! :)
Hey, thanks!, Somehow I have trouble realizing and comprehending that. It's a small world and shrinking all the time.
Love your reaction when you hit the aluminium fly wheel with your screwdriver 😂😂👍
Glad you enjoyed
EZGZ, you’re a wealth, of knowledge!
I've learned a lot about what doesn't work, that's for sure.
Thanks EZ. Once again I have learned a few things. My parts collection is pretty vast as well. Most I which I have just bought in big parts buys and don't have any personal experience with. I have found some real gems in the junk I have and have found some real duds as well.
Space is a premium. I spent $8,500 in storage fee's to keep a bunch of greasy grimey transmissions and parts only to find out much of it was worn out or some little thing missing. Now, I would rather have the space. Friends expect me to give them spare parts and get mad if I don't . Horrding old VW parts is a waste of time and space IMHO. It is a lot of fun to look threw trying to find a gold nugget or two. hehehehe
@@TheEZGZ I have spent that a few times over. I hope to move out of the extra space I rent for $550 a month this year. Only bonus was I could also work in the space I rented. Now I have purchased the house next door to mine and use that as my garage and work shop. At least I'm not throwing it away in rent anymore.
Another great video. Small suggestion: a lot of young enthusiast have no knowledge that we drag from the days VW bugs were just used cars. These youngsters have no patience for long videos, perhaps you should make few on the subject, but shorter ones.
I think your the one that has little patience and I see you have never posted a video. If I'm not having fun making a video and reliving my past whats the point of making a video.
Small suggestion: Don't spend so much time watching and start doing....
Thank you professor Greg! Really cool.
My pleasure! I'm a legend in my own mind.... LOL
Give me a real light car or buggy and a well built big bore 40...lots of fun to be had and dependable too. Well stated on the conundrum of enough carb heat and aftermarket exhaust. Decisions decisions decisions. Great channel EZ!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
thank you so much still learning and i am 60 years oid
That's great! I'm learning as well.
Thanks for all your continuing support of the VW community!.. Where might I find the sleeves you have on the oil lines going to the external filter?
Good question! Maybe Summit racing or somebody like that. I've had them for years
Love your videos
Thanks for your support and comment. Thats what keeps me posting
These are some great tips for the folks on a budget
Thanks, I figure if we educate the new guys they will buy parts and aftermarket will stay in business
QUESTION, on the heat risers. Sometimes when you buy a different exhaust the heat risers are not drilled out. Is it better to drill one heat Riser smaller then the other.? This creates a low pressure causing the flow in One Direction. Or is it better to drill the heat risers both the same size?
That chromolly had great Tone
I should have let it go to see how long it would last.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Hi EZGZ, new to your channel and really love it! Thank you. Do you remember the single twin choke Niki carbs for 1600cc. I remember back in the late 70s we would add a hot air pickup to the air filter. I.e. capture exhaust heat to heat up incoming air. It really helped. Also would you be so kind to let me know the name or brand of seat you are using the buggy. Many thanks, Roman
Never heard of Niki carbs. Hard to get clean warm air intake that looks nice when hanging off the back of a buggy. Those seats are over 25 years old Beard suspension seats
We Love Ya Ezy Hope your doing OK
Another awesome video stay safe ez ✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
Back at you my friend
Thx for the tips on the flywheel. The shop I order at claims that the cheaper cast iron will work only if you use a seal with a single lip. One with a double lip used on these flywheel will cause oil leaks, because the rounding on the flywheel starts earlier , causing extra wear on the seal .... I only have a stock one, and not the other one (yet), so I cannot compare the roundings ...
Nice video. I’ve been pondering running oil through my center mount with Dellorto 40 drla. I may try it someday. Or by then maybe I’ll find a dual set up I can refurbish and try. Going to try some little things on my 1641 for fun until I build a bigger engine. And a question you’ve been asked probably more times then you can count. Out of all the engines and camshafts you have ran what Camshaft and engine combo has been your favorite. Loaded question I know!!! Thanks For keeping me entertained!! Randy L Peterson
Used to be 1776 but you can't be a 78x90.5 2 liter with cheater cam and stock heads IMHO
I always appreciate an honest opinion. After helping part time at a Race engine shop for 20 plus years the seat of the pants meter is usually better then the dyno sheet. Seen a lot of Engines run good on the dyno but not worth a Darn in the car. Been thinking of building a 1915 with my old 041 heads. Kinda like the specs on the Web 163 cam. Or a scat c35. Or as I have learned ask 100 people what they like for a Camshaft you will get 100 different answers ha ha. I’ve read Engle 110 cam too big. Engle cam too mild. At then end of the day it comes down to a quality assembly and guy doing the tune and adjustments. Have a great week and I enjoy your videos.
Randy L Peterson
Me gusto mucho su video estoy por rebajar el peso de mi aro dentado para un 1800cc 88piston cigueñal 74 etc y ya e visto varios videos suyos ya me subscribi... saludos de monterreyMexico
Man, are you a prime example of AD/HD in full swing!! Focus for Gawdsakes and quit draggin us along for your side track rides!!
Man, are you a prime example of a U Tube coward in full swing. A big mouth and afraid to show your face or post a helpful video.
Some folks pay money to go to movie theaters to watch a movie. Not everyone leaves liking the movie.
Molly is amazing 👏 😍
I agree
Very nice
Thanks
We still have ice cream trucks but nobody is outside like when we were kids
Are you in the Northern part of Colorado? I'm in weld and I have a Dp 1600 stocker in a Baja bug. I have a million questions and your video just skimmed the surface of questions
Ask away, That's what the comment section is for and it might also help others
EZ, how are you? Got curious when you were talking flywheels... when you're changing a 6V bug to a 12V and you change the flywheel, does the old pressure plate bolt up to the new flywheel?
Nope. it also won't fit in a stock 6 volt transmission unless you clearance the bell housing. You will also need a 12volt starting motor and smaller starter bushing to hold it in the bell housing
Hi Gary, I have a stock flywheel and I have noticed a very slight oil leak by shining a torch behind the flywheel you can just see in there and I can see a bit of oil put it doesn't trip through the bellhousing,
My question is, is it worth taking the flywheel and changing the oil seals as you say on this video that the stock flywheel will always have a slight leak,
Thanks you 👍
All of mine leak and I don't worry about it!
Hey EZGZ, Thanks for the great videos, question: you made reference to heat risers, when you upgrade your exhaust sometimes the heat riser do not have holes in the heat risers and you have to drill them yourself. Is it better to drill one heat riser hole smaller than the other side? This creates a low pressure on the smaller hole side and the flow of exhaust in one direction. Or is it better to have both heat riser holes the some size? Thanks again.
I explained that in detail recently on this 1600 DP series. Go back and watch them......
Yes you did go into great detail about the intake heat, but I could not find anything on heatriser hole size.
I finally found a answer on the heat risers hole size. Stock exhaust has a long heat riser tube and a short in the exhaust itself self. The short side gets the smaller hole. A good exhaust gasket set will have two heat riser gaskets . One smaller size and one larger. Smaller gasket to the short side .
Compared to a tuned 4-in-1 exhaust, the stock exhaust IS restrictive... tests with flow-meters have proved this point for decades and decades.
Why compare it and who cares if you’re not racing and just after a little more pep. Besides ALL 4 into one exhaust’s have clearance and fitting issues. Plan on avoiding most speed bumps. I guess there’s a trade off with everything. PEACE
They should put M&M’s on the track. That would make it exciting!
Yeah, there alway's talking about how bad the marbles are in the corners late in the race anyhow. hehehe
Hey man I getting ready for a cross country trip in my baja bug. Right now have a stock 1600 with a stringer exhaust 38/38 Weber dg I just put on but needs smaller jet tho so I got me a holley 2110 I've been wanting try. Have you ever used one on any of your builts? And if so how did they run
DO NOT EXPERIMENT FOR A CROSS COUNTRY RUN.
Keep it STOCK and save your experimenting for close to home until you work the bugs out.. Have a safe trip. I did 10k miles in one year a while back. Had a few hickup's away from home. Not fun.....
Just curious if you had any geometry issues with the 1.25 intake rockers and the 1.1 exhaust?
If your planning on owning it and driving it 100k miles I would keep them all the same. www.cbperformance.com/Super-Stock-Rocker-Arm-Complete-Kit-1-25-1-Ratio-p/1685.htm
Baby Dellortos!
Yep, they work very well but getting hard to find parts for.
Ez my plugs go black then ends up fouling and miss fire , the question, is it because too much fuel or worn motor/ valve guides? Thanks
I would do a compression test on all 4 cylinders as long as you have the plugs out. That will tell you a lot.
Try a hotter spark plug.
Make sure your ignition system is good, Points, Cap, Rotor, plug wires
Valve guides go slightly downhill and even when worn don't suck much oil. Will give you a blue smoke puff when you shift.
If you some extra money it's always nice to freshen up your engine and get it all clean and shiny
Ice cream, ice cream, nice class, chrome dont get you home👍
So good
Hey EZGZ, I have a 1974 Volkswagen Thing. When I first start it up, the engine run 5 minutes. Then it’s sounds like it want to died. Then the engine shut off. What can it be. A carburetor problem or timing problem. Thank you
Basic troubleshooting. EVERYTHING! Plugs, points, wires, coil, compression, Choke linkage and adjustment.
If it's all stock I would take a close look at your choke. It might not be releasing and opening up. Sometimes coils fail when they are hot and then work when they are cold.
do those rockers just push the valves open further than the stock rockers?
Yes Sir
hi ezgz what do you thing about k1410 progessive on a stock 1600 motor its from aircool net center mount
I have no personal experience but those folks at ACN are pretty sharp. If you follow there instructions and they jet it for you it will probably work fine. Let us know how you like it please
Would not having a heating pipe on the inlet manifold cause flooding at hot starts. Freezing the fuel then melting into the cylinders after the engine is turned off.
Yes and if it sits long enough it will get in the cylinders and wash away the oil on the bottom of the cylinders and ruin your rings along with diluting your engine oil. It will run like a bat out of hell at WOT on a warm day. Thats why all the race cars use them in the Baja 1000 and then throw the engine away!
bolt on 1600 performance...
.aa performance 40 35 high flow heads cut to 90.5
88 slip on thick wall cylinders
1.25 ratio rockers. and 2 barrel egas.
it don't cost nothing to pay attention!!! Been there done that watch my old vids. Did it with a Fk7 cam called it my mystery build. I got 700+ vids. You got some catching up to do son.
Hey EZGZ what is the idea temperature for the intake manifold under the car when driving around? I got a 74 bug last year and put a new to me motor in it. It has a new 34pict 3 carb from empi and a 4-1 header I believe it’s inch and 5/8ths I’m not sure. The intake that was on the motor had the heater ports already sawed off when I got it. The car rarely ever gets more than 10-12 mpg the most I’ve gotten is 20. It has over 60psi at cold idle and goes to less than 20psi when hot. It’s a 1600 dp with a dog house cooler, was an efi case. It has a lightened flywheel already. It has very little bottom end, I have to rev it to at least 2500 to take off. It’s a Baja configuration with 235/75 15 rear tires any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
You have the wrong dizzy. Find a stock one that ends in #205 or buy a new pertronix svda flame thrower with pointless ignition. $150 Also when you buy a used engine your going to get what you pay for. 60-20 psi ????
TheEZGZ I put a new kuhltek svda and new Bosch cool on it after I got it because I didn’t trust the old electronics. It was siting in a dirt floor garage. The old owner had a rail buggy parked outside so I’m assuming it was from that buggy.
I was just wondering if 15-20 psi is a safe hot idle oil pressure reading.
@@PBMototsports Who cares it just idling. Don't get caught up in that mine does this and yours does that. My 2 liter with aluminum block has 60 at idle. How did you arrive at 15-20? Is that on your VDO dashboard gauge or an accurate on in place of the oil sender? Do you have the correct springs in the stock oil pressure relief system. Do you have the correct pistons in the oil relief system? The book say's that if you have less than 28 PSI at 2,500 RPM your engine needs to be rebuilt. What weight oil and what is the temp? Who gives a shit? Is this a pissing contest to see who can piss higher on the wall? Listen to me..... Idle oil pressure means nothing to me. If your engine runs good drive it. If you suspect you have problems take it apart and look. Drag racers do this every week or so. When I bought my rail with 2276 it ran great but had oil leaks. I took it all apart and plasti gauged the mains. It was in spec and ran great. I put it all back together and it doesn't leak as bad and I know what I got. If you have concerns with your beloved engine take it apart and LOOK and MEASURE. It a lot of work and PITHA but it feels so good when you know. I did not replace the bearings. They looked great and I put it back together. I'm happy. My 1776 had 18 PSI at idle and I ran it 20 years. (If you don't mind, it don't matter)
Run the baby dills.
I will try again
@@TheEZGZ 😁
T3 wasserboxer has 1.25/1.00 rockers from memory?
Nice
👍
more thanks
I have a Manx very similar to yours sir.
Very cool! I wish mine was a authenticated manx. Maybe even one of those full size ones with the curved windsheild. Looking forward to getting it out when the weather warms up.
I have a few questions sir. I have a bone stock 1600cc with the twin exhaust. Which I hear kills HP. Thinking of going with a snorkel exhaust. But question is what can I do to increase HP. What heads can I buy. Not on a budget
Heads are a waste of money on a 1600. If your serious and want to listen by some dual 40 Kadrons with 28mm venturi's New from Kaddie Shack and then look for a 1 3/8 Tube exhaust that you like. Just bolt it on and feel the difference and enjoy it for a while. Think about building a completely separate engine like a Type 1 two liter 78x90.5 with engel 110 or smaller cam. (preferably smaller) Big valve heads are for very high RPM and a waste of money for fun street or offroad engine. Everyone bracket races so who cares anyway. Plus you want your transmission to live a few more years. 80 or 90 HP is great for a stock clutch and a lot of fun and a lot of trouble free miles and smiles.
The manifold i have on my motor doesnt have the heat riser on the manifold as i live in south africa.
It would run smoother and get better MPG if it did
@@TheEZGZ running a stinger exhaust. Ive always let my car warm up for a few minutes before i drive. At this moment i get between 25 too 30mpg at 25 too 40mph. Still running it in as its all new parts.
Bout to do and 88mm slippin kit over size vavle think 37mm for the intake 35.5mm on the exhaust side and match port my heads and see if I could find some power cones for the exhaust
37 X 35 doesn't sound good. No sense reinventing the wheel. Most common is 40 X 35 . It's tried and true.
88 slip in's only come in A pin height. Works great for 69 crank. IMHO I would do a fluff and buff on stock valve heads. You will have to cut them to 90.5 / 92 but get better flow. Especially if your just doing cones on exhaust. Do what you like and let us know the results. Good Luck with your project
Ya I was just thinking bout my cam its stock and really don't want to lose bottom in torque with the 40×35
I am rebuilding my 1600. I saw a drop in 1800 kit that does not require any machine work on my block. Do you know anything about it and would it be worth it?
Yes, I built and own it. I did a whole series on my 1800 and called my mystery build. You will still have to buy 90.5 cylinder heads or have yours machined. It is a lot better to build a 1776 IMHO
Ok. I checked jbugs and they have the kit to do it. I just want a motor that can run my ac better than the 1600. I had a 2387 in it but am over having a race car. Just want a good sold motor for every day driver
@@MP-hx8fs 1776 because of the stock cylinder. The 1800 is thicker at top but paper thin at the base to slip in. Screw it. Cut your case!!!!!!! Do what you want. You do not have my blessing on 1800. Been there done that. You will find out the hard way.
I was just telling you what I wanted. Was not in no point being disrespectful. Just wanted your advice.
I don't think that is was being disrespectful by telling you that a 1776 will be far more reliable than the 1800 kit.
If anyone is being disrespectful, it's you, for making that poor air-cooled motor turn an AC compressor. What is wrong with you?! Just kidding : )
Hang the aluminum flywheel on the wall and mount a clock in the middle. Have a good day bud .
Cool idea
What happened to the single port engine?
alive and well
Hi what's happened to the sandrail did you sell it
no but I probably should
@@TheEZGZ we have one with a 1915cc we put in there we luckily got to test drive it before all the corona virus thing it went well with it now it just needs some fine tuning while in lockdown how exciting how's that 1600 dp doing really cool vids and we used a lot of your tips when building our rail
Put on a crash helmet and you wont hear half the tiring noise of your beach buggy, try some on ar your nearest biker store, some fit comfy ithers dont, be sure to get tinted visor for the sun.
True, I generally wear a Motocross helmet when I'm out in the sand rail
Hay ez if my plugs get black
Make sure your choke is working properly and goes to full open
Ok thanks buddy ,you the man .
I’m going to play with my bug now and check out my choke
I noticed thatJohn Muir hates the choke so much so that he won’t tell you how to adjust it but says how to disconnect it 😊 cool 😎
More power in the seat of your pants.
If I lost some of my rotating mass I bet I would have more energy as well. LOL