I've tried those high performance springs and all it did was create more oil leaks. I took it out and it still leaked. Once it starts you know. I did replace the one cap by the flywheel with a vdo oil temperature sensor and it works. Thank you ezy for talking the time and sharing your experience.
always a pleasure to see the notification that u have posted a new video! good information about those oil relief pistons and the different sizes! i would never have thought to check something like that! thanks for posting all these videos lately i have really learned alot!!!!!!!!! hope to have the 1915 in my 74 soon! got all the tin work off and cleaning things up from all the leaks the old motor had! also had a bad transmission leak and come to find out it was the reverse light sensor was broke off and leaking so that was alot easier fix than expected. oh and figured out why the motor shook real bad when i took off sometimes both the rear trans mounts were broke and only the front 2 bolts on the trans were holding motor and trans in...ooops! its been fun getting to know this little car better though! thanks again for all the time u spend sharing your experiences!!!
One of my dual relief cases had been drilled out and ported tube inserts pressed in. The pistons that went with the sleeves were smaller in diameter as well as the springs. It was out of a 71 bus and I never did find out what the mod was for
I should have showed my old demo case. The bottom is threaded for the plug and just above is a hole to relieve the pressure below the plug. The cylinder looks smooth or it might be a sleeve. It's not brass but it had old crud stuck inside. Old engines that aren't maintained and sit for long time get some weird tooth decay that could catch on the plug. All this should be taken apart and cleaned at time of rebuild. The did you a good service cleaning yours up.
Great now i wont sleep thinking about my 1600 which i havent finished yet but is together. " should i check my oil reliefs just to be safe" ha ha ha Thanks eze, i'm still loosing sleep over my crappy bus engine for my sand rail. All and All a dam good video. Good entertainment and informative as usual.
My buggy has 100psi at cold idle, then runs normal pressure at hot temperature. I am going to fix it one day but don't know enough about it yet. Thanks for your knowledge. (Gauge might not be accurate either)
This guy seems like he's very knowledgeable but if you could just stick to the point would be a big help because by the time he got through babbling on about calipers and aftermarket products and other Motors and this and that I didn't learn a thing. I was more confused than when I started
Hope this helps you. Way too much is riding on oil pressure to simply "HOPE" that spring tension is as good as original. "You don't want it to be too much, you don't want it to be too little." What does this mean when you are trying to control oil pressure at RPM and idle? There is a spring tension specification in the Volkswagen manual under the Engine section, page 35 for Type 1 and page 30 for Type 2. Installing each of these springs should never be guess work. There is a lot of spring tension variation even among new springs. Spring tension is measured when the spring is compressed to the specified loaded length. To do this will require a scale on the drill press table. Set the depth control on the drill press to the specified spring loaded length above the scale surface. Compress the spring to the loaded length then observe and record the scale force. Install springs to your liking then observe their performance. Swap them out as necessary to adjust for desired performance. Read my technical paper titled "Measuring Oil Pressure & Oil Cooler Bypass Spring Tension" on the subject published on The Samba under Technical, Miscellaneous.
Speaking to the durability of that style oil cooler. I'll just say I've had two burst on me. Both on the same motor that was running the stock springs for the duel relief vales.
@@TheEZGZ Your lack of the fundamentals of science precludes your ability to make any sense. Learn the difference between "flow" (flow rate) and pressure.
I need that oil pressure relief piston puller. Got one stuck in my AS41 case. I will buy one, but if this one is as frozen as it looks to be I may need to run a big tap into mine and pull it out that way.
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6549.htm The book also says screwing a 10mm or 3/8 tapp into it. You will have to experiment on your own. Mine came out with the puller
@@TheEZGZ Wow, turns out just "studying on it" as we say around here, then choosing the course of action of trying several long threaded bolts paid off. It gave almost no fight coming out when I screwed a course thread bolt in. thanks for helping me decide what to do! I'll still want that tool, thanks for the link. The other place I was going to buy from wanted 49-something dollars!
Way too much is depending on oil pressure to simply "HOPE" that spring tension is good enough. Some say, "You don't want it to be too much, you don't want it to be too little." What does this mean when you are trying to control oil pressure at RPM and idle? There is a spring tension specification in the Volkswagen manual under the Engine section, page 35 for Type 1 and page 30 for Type 2. Installing each of these springs should never be guess work. There is a lot of spring tension variation even among new springs. Spring tension is measured when the spring is compressed to the specified loaded length. To do this will require a scale on the drill press table. Set the depth control on the drill press to the specified spring loaded length above the scale surface. Compress the spring to the loaded length then observe and record the scale force. Install springs to your liking then observe their performance. Swap them out as necessary to adjust for desired performance. Read my technical paper titled "Measuring Oil Pressure & Oil Cooler Bypass Spring Tension" on the subject published on The Samba under Technical, Miscellaneous.
VW only uses a idiot light that comes on under 6 PSI. The VW book calls out that at 2,500 RPM the oil pressure should not be below 28 PSI . Thats all I care about. ... So basically there is no starting point spring pressure. Different weight oils, Oil temperature and engine wear all effect pressure so that spring pressure is not an exact science Dual relief cases were ment to have 26 PSI on the mains most of the time and relieve the rest to the sump
Forget about the idiot red light. This method assumes the use of an oil pressure gage. I used this method on a 1915cc rebuild project earlier this year with 3.1 Lb. tension on the oil cooler bypass spring and 7.3 Lb. tension on the oil pressure relief. The VW manual specification is 12.3 - 16.1 and 6.8 - 8.4 respectively. With the engine fully warmed up to at least 180 degrees F, the idle oil pressure never goes below 15 psi and at 2500 RPM it is a steady 50 PSI. This is using 10W-40 oil viscosity. The science of measuring spring tension to control the oil pressure is clear. If you are building a performance engine you do not want to leave oil pressure to chance by using springs with unknown tension.
Stay focused. I love your information but it gets really frustrating when you go off on a tangent about vernier calipers or whatever happens to be that day. When this happens I have a tendency to find somebody else to watch and gather information from.
From his response, he doesn't take feedback very well. Probably a lifetime situation for him that has limited his personal growth and lifetime achievement. Sad, because he is a smart guy. I saw the title and clicked on it looking for answers. I am still trying to figure out what he is talking about.
So, I'm in the middle of a 1600 stock rebuild. I noticed corrosion on the seat in the bore of both of those valves. I am cutting the seats so they are once again flat. I wonder how many others have this corrosion and replace the piston to fix the problem without inspecting the seat?
The seat doesn't have to perfect. It's the relationship of the piston to the bore just like a piston. There are several thousands difference in pistons from aftermarket as well as factory. Even if the seat is uneven the spring should hold the piston in place and hole back the oil until the pressure increases and moves it down far enough to go out the relief hole on the side. With a good oil gauge you can watch the relief valves opening and closing when you increase the RPM. Not saying what you did was not correct just making an observation that millions of engines are imperfect and still running strong.
hey Ez I'm confused so my 2332 that i rebuilt 6months ago the oil light started flickering at idle and it goes away if i rev it but all the springs and pistons where stock and i did run 10/40 for a little bit and dumped most of it and switched over to /20/50 temps are down around 188 so it snot hot what you think could it just be a bad oil sensoor or should i pull off my sump and check the piston size? thanks
So, ...... in the last seconds you revealed that a "smaller" diameter piston improved your idle oil pressure or a "larger" diameter piston improved your idle oil pressure? Did you use the same spring in both cases? Was the spring a factory original spring for that year motor? I was unable to follow.
Interesting, trying to address low oil pressure in my type 4, tried unscrewing the oil control valve above right side rear cylinder and it come loose but won't unscrew now turns indefinitely either way is that a threaded plug ? I can't pull it out with vise grips ,what happened? anyhow have 8psi at 900 rpm hot, running vr1 40weightoil engine is a1974 with65000 miles,thanks e.z.
Hi EZ - I have a 2332 cc in my airplane, but have issues with high oil temps (230) measured via VDO sender in oil pressure control hole near flywheel. I've been wondering if I should actually measure it at the oil pressure relief hole by oil pump. What do you think? Oh, and what about washer shims under the springs?
Did you even watch this video? No shims, No heavy springs. If your 2332 was not made from a NEW Case it was probably line bored for oversized bearings and alignment was not correct or the used case was warped. From what little I know about VW airplane engines you guys don't run the stock tin and cooling fan.
@@TheEZGZ Hi EZ, yes, mine was made from a new case (Brazil) from Valley Engineering when they made airplane conversion engines. And they had the oil temp sensor by the flywheel, and I have seen something that it's better to put the sender by the valve opening by the oil pump. Thank you!
Also maybe I missed it in the video of what was the cure did you go to a smaller circumference piston and get it to quit sticking? Not sure how you got from 7 to 12 I got lost. But I do love sitting here listening to you while I’m working. Lol
Hi EZGZ, I' m building a 1776 with type 4 oil cooler and oil filter on oil pump, with 1600 doghouse and the ventury ring inlet, for daily driving in my 1965 bug. Do you recommend to use grooved relief piston? I've read in some forums that the "Type 4 engine re-utilizes the grooved relief valve plunger bleeding off excess volume and has a control valve located along the right lifter gallery between #1 lifter bores and it has massive bearing surface area . . . and a modest 24mm pump, even with the new oil filter." Thanx in advanced. Cheers
1. The grooved piston ring was originally created to boost the oil pressure on single relief early cases it is not needed with a dual relief case. 2. Why on earth would you want to add the wider higher capacity type 4 oil cooler on a punk ass 1776? They are wider and you have to modify the fan housing as well as beat a dent in the engine compartment firewall. It's even worse on a 65 sedan which was pre doghouse. 3. Running a filter pump is not the best Idea on a sedan is not a great idea ether. Your oil filter will be right in the hot air stream coming off cylinders 3 & 4 as well as your exhaust. I run them on some of my engines with no back end and upswept exhaust like my Baja or my Manx style car because there is not a good place to hang a filter IMHO. Also if you insist on running a filter pump with wider than 26mm gears be sure and run 10-30 weight oil as FACTORY manuals recommended in the later years A full flow oil set up would be a much better choice with the oil filter mounted in the left rear fender well on the bumper bracket. Use stainless steel lines to connect it Gene Berg style. You get some free oil cooling and it easy no mess to change filters. 4. Unless your building your 1776 with ultra high compression and have the ability to rev over 6k RPM real often there is no reason to make any changes other than displacement. Also on a daily driver I would stay away from large valve heads and use stock size 1 3/8 exhaust. If you go with big valve heads and larger exhaust you will loose power at low end and mid range where you spend most of your time. Even with dual single barrel carbs. All the forum and magazine hype just sucks you wallet mileage. It will help you when drag racing but if thats what you want I'm not the one to ask. I think its more fun in my 66 sedan with 1776, stock heads, stock cam and stock exhaust with big bore tips to blow the doors off guys with bigger engines. My secret is a 4:37 Ring and Pinion tranny like yours came with from the factory. It's great around town but sucks cruising on open roads. I even running a rejected stock 34 PICT 3 carb with rejet and oil bath air cleaner. Sorry to Ramble and Good Luck with your project. Everyone has there own ideas and dreams. Follow your Bliss
Great stuff EZGZ! I’ve been struggling with this one for a while now and have been looking all over the place trying to find a chart that listed the spring rates. Which manual are you using?
TheEZGZ Thank you so much EZGZ! I’ve ordered the book through the link you provided so I hope you get credit for the purchase. I don’t know why I didn’t think of the VW Manual for Bus before. I’ve been through the hot rodding VW phase back in the mid seventies learning a lot of hard and expensive lessons over the years. My friends are still stuck in the go big or go home, Yankee Engineered VW engines and I’m constantly trying to convince them to basically build a stock, sensible compression bus motor with more stroke for torque.
What is you problem? Tell me more? The engine has built in relief valves to take care of that unless it's stuck? Thats the first thing I would look at.
@@TheEZGZ hi, thanks for the quick reply, I build a 2276 turbo efi engine and I had to much oil pressure, I got a cb engine case, Jaycee full flow system an 30mm cb pump, also a oil sump
30mm oil pump is a high capacity oil pump for racing only. Not what the VW engine system was designed for. 2276 Turbo needs extra oil for Turbo bearing. Yes of course you need to plug the outlet to divert all the oil threw a full flow system. If you ask a question like that it scares me to think what your building and what your using it for and how long you expect it to last. I don't build racing engines. I build everyday driver engines with more power that might last as long is stock if your careful. Maybe you should be asking the folks you bought the parts from...... they love to take your money and I notice lately it says on your receipt that all racing parts are your risk and no refunds. All parts are yours and you take the risk.......
@@TheEZGZ thanks for that advice. I will fix all that before gets late. What oil pump do you recommend me. Also thanks, I learn a lot with your videos.
I would try another gauge for comparison.... Many times a stuck relief valve is momentary and clears itself. That kind of number can blow your oil cooler and or seals if not corrected.
Hello dear EzGz i got a question for you. Im running a stock 1641 with orig oil pump and relief. When hot i have almost zero oil pressure on idle and above 1800rpms its only having 7 to 8 psi pressure. Now i turned a spacer on my lathe to boost the flywheel side relive valve tried 3mm spacer, nog i made a 6.5mm spacer and added a extra spring inside the orig spring. Now getting just 8 to 9 psi at 3000 to 4000 rpm, so not a big difference. When cold i see a good increase with the relief spacers, but when running hotter it drops way back down. What do you suggest? Is it worth buying the adjust or pressure kit? Or i maybe try spacing the primairy relief valve also? Its a rebuild engine, line bored and runs fine. Thanks allot
The factory spec calls out minimum of 28psi at 2,500 RPM @ normal operating temp with 30 wt oil. They recommend rebuilding if it is less than that. Sooooooo unfortunately the only thing I can suggest is to take the engine apart and go to the book and check all the tolerance's. You may be able to reused some of the parts. If you keep running it with low pressure you will have more expensive damage. I cracked the case on my current 2110 project just because the oil light stayed on to long one time! I am able to reuse most of the parts. Problem appeared to be a O-ring broke on a non factory style oil pump.
Noted! I've done poles and it's split down the middle. Some people like to be entertained and hear me ramble. Other's just want fast facts to fix a problem. It's more fun for me to just relax and tell my story. When it stops being fun and I get hater's I will just close shop and delete all my vids. If you need some quick info just ask your question and I will try to answer or torture you with a long vid. hehehe
Idont like use clutch in driving… i change gears with out clutch… isave my rear engine bearing also clutch cable lose. … all vw engine rear bearing problem End play problem from high clutch paddle So iuse half clutch when ichange from 2to 3 to 4rth and some time inot uee clutch when cars move for not pushing the rear main bearing in block
The fix for your low oil pressure may be installing the correct size piston in your oil relief system. dahhhhhh it don't cost nothing to pay attention my friend. hehehe
Yay go EzGz. thanks for providing us with interesting, informative and entertaining videos during these times of COVID SMOVID BLOVID what the heck ever that thing is called that's got us all locked down and locked in! Have a great one!
@@TheEZGZ me too, me too. On this side of the country (NC) I'd just as soon be in a swamp somewhere in Florida catching bass. In the meantime though we have our vws to play around with right?
More good info...I didn't know there were different diameter pistons in these relief valves!
I've tried those high performance springs and all it did was create more oil leaks. I took it out and it still leaked. Once it starts you know. I did replace the one cap by the flywheel with a vdo oil temperature sensor and it works. Thank you ezy for talking the time and sharing your experience.
Thanks for sharing
One of my cases had a worn step in the pressure relief passage. I made a flat faced reamer that cleaned it up which then stabilized my pressure.
Thanks so much for sharing that with us. I think that this whole topic is often overlooked.
always a pleasure to see the notification that u have posted a new video! good information about those oil relief pistons and the different sizes! i would never have thought to check something like that! thanks for posting all these videos lately i have really learned alot!!!!!!!!! hope to have the 1915 in my 74 soon! got all the tin work off and cleaning things up from all the leaks the old motor had! also had a bad transmission leak and come to find out it was the reverse light sensor was broke off and leaking so that was alot easier fix than expected. oh and figured out why the motor shook real bad when i took off sometimes both the rear trans mounts were broke and only the front 2 bolts on the trans were holding motor and trans in...ooops! its been fun getting to know this little car better though! thanks again for all the time u spend sharing your experiences!!!
Thanks for sharing yours as well. All those little things add up to a happy car and owner. :-)
One of my dual relief cases had been drilled out and ported tube inserts pressed in. The pistons that went with the sleeves were smaller in diameter as well as the springs. It was out of a 71 bus and I never did find out what the mod was for
I should have showed my old demo case. The bottom is threaded for the plug and just above is a hole to relieve the pressure below the plug. The cylinder looks smooth or it might be a sleeve. It's not brass but it had old crud stuck inside. Old engines that aren't maintained and sit for long time get some weird tooth decay that could catch on the plug. All this should be taken apart and cleaned at time of rebuild. The did you a good service cleaning yours up.
Great now i wont sleep thinking about my 1600 which i havent finished yet but is together. " should i check my oil reliefs just to be safe" ha ha ha
Thanks eze, i'm still loosing sleep over my crappy bus engine for my sand rail. All and All a dam good video. Good entertainment and informative as usual.
Knowledge is power
My buggy has 100psi at cold idle, then runs normal pressure at hot temperature. I am going to fix it one day but don't know enough about it yet. Thanks for your knowledge. (Gauge might not be accurate either)
Most likely
This guy seems like he's very knowledgeable but if you could just stick to the point would be a big help because by the time he got through babbling on about calipers and aftermarket products and other Motors and this and that I didn't learn a thing. I was more confused than when I started
Hope this helps you. Way too much is riding on oil pressure to simply "HOPE" that spring tension is as good as original. "You don't want it to be too much, you don't want it to be too little." What does this mean when you are trying to control oil pressure at RPM and idle? There is a spring tension specification in the Volkswagen manual under the Engine section, page 35 for Type 1 and page 30 for Type 2. Installing each of these springs should never be guess work. There is a lot of spring tension variation even among new springs. Spring tension is measured when the spring is compressed to the specified loaded length. To do this will require a scale on the drill press table. Set the depth control on the drill press to the specified spring loaded length above the scale surface. Compress the spring to the loaded length then observe and record the scale force. Install springs to your liking then observe their performance. Swap them out as necessary to adjust for desired performance. Read my technical paper titled "Measuring Oil Pressure & Oil Cooler Bypass Spring Tension" on the subject published on The Samba under Technical, Miscellaneous.
Speaking to the durability of that style oil cooler. I'll just say I've had two burst on me. Both on the same motor that was running the stock springs for the duel relief vales.
I'm guessing your not running a 26mm gears???
@@TheEZGZ Your lack of the fundamentals of science precludes your ability to make any sense. Learn the difference between "flow" (flow rate) and pressure.
I need that oil pressure relief piston puller. Got one stuck in my AS41 case. I will buy one, but if this one is as frozen as it looks to be I may need to run a big tap into mine and pull it out that way.
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6549.htm
The book also says screwing a 10mm or 3/8 tapp into it. You will have to experiment on your own. Mine came out with the puller
@@TheEZGZ Wow, turns out just "studying on it" as we say around here, then choosing the course of action of trying several long threaded bolts paid off. It gave almost no fight coming out when I screwed a course thread bolt in. thanks for helping me decide what to do! I'll still want that tool, thanks for the link. The other place I was going to buy from wanted 49-something dollars!
Way too much is depending on oil pressure to simply "HOPE" that spring tension is good enough. Some say, "You don't want it to be too much, you don't want it to be too little." What does this mean when you are trying to control oil pressure at RPM and idle? There is a spring tension specification in the Volkswagen manual under the Engine section, page 35 for Type 1 and page 30 for Type 2. Installing each of these springs should never be guess work. There is a lot of spring tension variation even among new springs. Spring tension is measured when the spring is compressed to the specified loaded length. To do this will require a scale on the drill press table. Set the depth control on the drill press to the specified spring loaded length above the scale surface. Compress the spring to the loaded length then observe and record the scale force. Install springs to your liking then observe their performance. Swap them out as necessary to adjust for desired performance. Read my technical paper titled "Measuring Oil Pressure & Oil Cooler Bypass Spring Tension" on the subject published on The Samba under Technical, Miscellaneous.
VW only uses a idiot light that comes on under 6 PSI.
The VW book calls out that at 2,500 RPM the oil pressure should not be below 28 PSI .
Thats all I care about. ... So basically there is no starting point spring pressure. Different weight oils, Oil temperature and engine wear all effect pressure so that spring pressure is not an exact science
Dual relief cases were ment to have 26 PSI on the mains most of the time and relieve the rest to the sump
Forget about the idiot red light. This method assumes the use of an oil pressure gage. I used this method on a 1915cc rebuild project earlier this year with 3.1 Lb. tension on the oil cooler bypass spring and 7.3 Lb. tension on the oil pressure relief. The VW manual specification is 12.3 - 16.1 and 6.8 - 8.4 respectively. With the engine fully warmed up to at least 180 degrees F, the idle oil pressure never goes below 15 psi and at 2500 RPM it is a steady 50 PSI. This is using 10W-40 oil viscosity. The science of measuring spring tension to control the oil pressure is clear. If you are building a performance engine you do not want to leave oil pressure to chance by using springs with unknown tension.
Stay focused. I love your information but it gets really frustrating when you go off on a tangent about vernier calipers or whatever happens to be that day. When this happens I have a tendency to find somebody else to watch and gather information from.
That's your choice. I gotta be me. Your getting free info here. That's the price of learning from my experience.
From his response, he doesn't take feedback very well. Probably a lifetime situation for him that has limited his personal growth and lifetime achievement. Sad, because he is a smart guy. I saw the title and clicked on it looking for answers. I am still trying to figure out what he is talking about.
You are definitely on a roll!
I try
you are so right after market junk and thank you ezgz again i learn so much from you
Thanks for watching!
If you changed your pistons why is there a valve issue ?
So much good info in this video!!
What final spring / piston combo did you end up with?
I ended up with (.626 ) It seemed happy. I reused the stock spring and I picked up 5#
TheEZGZ good to know! I’ve always had much better luck with the stock springs also!
Hey man Kevin here from Australia. Very interesting topic
thanks for sharing.
Anyhoo stay safe and stay well.
✌ Peace
Peace!
Great info sir! Always wondered about they worked. Thank you!
Glad to help
So, I'm in the middle of a 1600 stock rebuild. I noticed corrosion on the seat in the bore of both of those valves. I am cutting the seats so they are once again flat. I wonder how many others have this corrosion and replace the piston to fix the problem without inspecting the seat?
The seat doesn't have to perfect. It's the relationship of the piston to the bore just like a piston. There are several thousands difference in pistons from aftermarket as well as factory. Even if the seat is uneven the spring should hold the piston in place and hole back the oil until the pressure increases and moves it down far enough to go out the relief hole on the side. With a good oil gauge you can watch the relief valves opening and closing when you increase the RPM. Not saying what you did was not correct just making an observation that millions of engines are imperfect and still running strong.
hey Ez I'm confused so my 2332 that i rebuilt 6months ago the oil light started flickering at idle and it goes away if i rev it but all the springs and pistons where stock and i did run 10/40 for a little bit and dumped most of it and switched over to /20/50 temps are down around 188 so it snot hot what you think could it just be a bad oil sensoor or should i pull off my sump and check the piston size? thanks
@@vwkenart pull the sensor and check the engine with standard gauge for comparison
@@TheEZGZ cool thanks hopefully it’s nothing serious.
INFO STARTS @13 ISH MINUTS IN- Save the time...
Why? It's entertainment and got to be fun for me....
So, ...... in the last seconds you revealed that a "smaller" diameter piston improved your idle oil pressure or a "larger" diameter piston improved your idle oil pressure? Did you use the same spring in both cases? Was the spring a factory original spring for that year motor? I was unable to follow.
I was always a great informational video. You put out so many videos in the last few days I feel like we have moved into your house. LOL
You need to quit free loading and click on a few advertisements for your share of the rent. hehehe
VW story you got a million of them. "This is I don't mind listening out"
Thanks
Great video, so did you go bigger or smaller on your piston🤔
Yes I did. Both, I mean I found that Goldielocks fit and picked up 5 # :-)
Interesting, trying to address low oil pressure in my type 4, tried unscrewing the oil control valve above right side rear cylinder and it come loose but won't unscrew now turns indefinitely either way is that a threaded plug ? I can't pull it out with vise grips ,what happened? anyhow have 8psi at 900 rpm hot, running vr1 40weightoil engine is a1974 with65000 miles,thanks e.z.
oh oh www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6549.htm
Hi EZ - I have a 2332 cc in my airplane, but have issues with high oil temps (230) measured via VDO sender in oil pressure control hole near flywheel. I've been wondering if I should actually measure it at the oil pressure relief hole by oil pump. What do you think? Oh, and what about washer shims under the springs?
Did you even watch this video? No shims, No heavy springs.
If your 2332 was not made from a NEW Case it was probably line bored for oversized bearings and alignment was not correct or the used case was warped.
From what little I know about VW airplane engines you guys don't run the stock tin and cooling fan.
@@TheEZGZ Hi EZ, yes, mine was made from a new case (Brazil) from Valley Engineering when they made airplane conversion engines. And they had the oil temp sensor by the flywheel, and I have seen something that it's better to put the sender by the valve opening by the oil pump. Thank you!
Also maybe I missed it in the video of what was the cure did you go to a smaller circumference piston and get it to quit sticking? Not sure how you got from 7 to 12 I got lost. But I do love sitting here listening to you while I’m working. Lol
Found a piston about .002 small and tickled her hole. She gave me a 5# tip
Hi EZGZ, I' m building a 1776 with type 4 oil cooler and oil filter on oil pump, with 1600 doghouse and the ventury ring inlet, for daily driving in my 1965 bug. Do you recommend to use grooved relief piston? I've read in some forums that the "Type 4 engine re-utilizes the grooved relief valve plunger bleeding off excess volume and has a control valve located along the right lifter gallery between #1 lifter bores and it has massive bearing surface area . . . and a modest 24mm pump, even with the new oil filter." Thanx in advanced. Cheers
1. The grooved piston ring was originally created to boost the oil pressure on single relief early cases it is not needed with a dual relief case.
2. Why on earth would you want to add the wider higher capacity type 4 oil cooler on a punk ass 1776? They are wider and you have to modify the fan housing as well as beat a dent in the engine compartment firewall. It's even worse on a 65 sedan which was pre doghouse.
3. Running a filter pump is not the best Idea on a sedan is not a great idea ether. Your oil filter will be right in the hot air stream coming off cylinders 3 & 4 as well as your exhaust. I run them on some of my engines with no back end and upswept exhaust like my Baja or my Manx style car because there is not a good place to hang a filter IMHO. Also if you insist on running a filter pump with wider than 26mm gears be sure and run 10-30 weight oil as FACTORY manuals recommended in the later years
A full flow oil set up would be a much better choice with the oil filter mounted in the left rear fender well on the bumper bracket. Use stainless steel lines to connect it Gene Berg style. You get some free oil cooling and it easy no mess to change filters.
4. Unless your building your 1776 with ultra high compression and have the ability to rev over 6k RPM real often there is no reason to make any changes other than displacement. Also on a daily driver I would stay away from large valve heads and use stock size 1 3/8 exhaust. If you go with big valve heads and larger exhaust you will loose power at low end and mid range where you spend most of your time. Even with dual single barrel carbs. All the forum and magazine hype just sucks you wallet mileage. It will help you when drag racing but if thats what you want I'm not the one to ask. I think its more fun in my 66 sedan with 1776, stock heads, stock cam and stock exhaust with big bore tips to blow the doors off guys with bigger engines. My secret is a 4:37 Ring and Pinion tranny like yours came with from the factory. It's great around town but sucks cruising on open roads. I even running a rejected stock 34 PICT 3 carb with rejet and oil bath air cleaner.
Sorry to Ramble and Good Luck with your project. Everyone has there own ideas and dreams. Follow your Bliss
@@TheEZGZ Thank you for the fast response and your tips and knowledge. Im a fan of your videos! Cheers from Baja California. "Ezgz out" 😊
Great stuff EZGZ! I’ve been struggling with this one for a while now and have been looking all over the place trying to find a chart that listed the spring rates. Which manual are you using?
Glad I could help! This is the one I used in the vid www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2863.htm
TheEZGZ Thank you so much EZGZ! I’ve ordered the book through the link you provided so I hope you get credit for the purchase.
I don’t know why I didn’t think of the VW Manual for Bus before. I’ve been through the hot rodding VW phase back in the mid seventies learning a lot of hard and expensive lessons over the years. My friends are still stuck in the go big or go home, Yankee Engineered VW engines and I’m constantly trying to convince them to basically build a stock, sensible compression bus motor with more stroke for torque.
Hi EZGZ, can you make a video of when you have too much oil pressure. 👍
What is you problem? Tell me more? The engine has built in relief valves to take care of that unless it's stuck? Thats the first thing I would look at.
@@TheEZGZ hi, thanks for the quick reply, I build a 2276 turbo efi engine and I had to much oil pressure, I got a cb engine case, Jaycee full flow system an 30mm cb pump, also a oil sump
Also when you use the Jaycee full flow system, do you need to block the oil passage that come from the side of the oil pump
30mm oil pump is a high capacity oil pump for racing only. Not what the VW engine system was designed for. 2276 Turbo needs extra oil for Turbo bearing. Yes of course you need to plug the outlet to divert all the oil threw a full flow system. If you ask a question like that it scares me to think what your building and what your using it for and how long you expect it to last. I don't build racing engines. I build everyday driver engines with more power that might last as long is stock if your careful.
Maybe you should be asking the folks you bought the parts from...... they love to take your money and I notice lately it says on your receipt that all racing parts are your risk and no refunds. All parts are yours and you take the risk.......
@@TheEZGZ thanks for that advice. I will fix all that before gets late. What oil pump do you recommend me. Also thanks, I learn a lot with your videos.
My oil pressure was 200 + psi on start up I'm thinking the pressure relief is the issue
I would try another gauge for comparison.... Many times a stuck relief valve is momentary and clears itself. That kind of number can blow your oil cooler and or seals if not corrected.
Hello dear EzGz i got a question for you. Im running a stock 1641 with orig oil pump and relief. When hot i have almost zero oil pressure on idle and above 1800rpms its only having 7 to 8 psi pressure. Now i turned a spacer on my lathe to boost the flywheel side relive valve tried 3mm spacer, nog i made a 6.5mm spacer and added a extra spring inside the orig spring. Now getting just 8 to 9 psi at 3000 to 4000 rpm, so not a big difference. When cold i see a good increase with the relief spacers, but when running hotter it drops way back down. What do you suggest? Is it worth buying the adjust or pressure kit? Or i maybe try spacing the primairy relief valve also? Its a rebuild engine, line bored and runs fine. Thanks allot
The factory spec calls out minimum of 28psi at 2,500 RPM @ normal operating temp with 30 wt oil.
They recommend rebuilding if it is less than that.
Sooooooo unfortunately the only thing I can suggest is to take the engine apart and go to the book and check all the tolerance's. You may be able to reused some of the parts. If you keep running it with low pressure you will have more expensive damage.
I cracked the case on my current 2110 project just because the oil light stayed on to long one time! I am able to reuse most of the parts. Problem appeared to be a O-ring broke on a non factory style oil pump.
@@TheEZGZ Have you checked the oil pump along with the relief mod? Done a compression check to help determine engine condition?
Great info once again!👍
Glad you think so!
Love your videos but sometimes you just gotta get to the point. Took 25 min to hear what the pressure change was when you changed the piston.🤔
Noted! I've done poles and it's split down the middle. Some people like to be entertained and hear me ramble. Other's just want fast facts to fix a problem.
It's more fun for me to just relax and tell my story. When it stops being fun and I get hater's I will just close shop and delete all my vids. If you need some quick info just ask your question and I will try to answer or torture you with a long vid. hehehe
@@TheEZGZ keep doing what you do. I really do enjoy your videos. I'd love to be your neighbor to hang and shoot the shit with.
It's a VW thing, we all ramble 🤣
Idont like use clutch in driving… i change gears with out clutch… isave my rear engine bearing also clutch cable lose. … all vw engine rear bearing problem
End play problem from high clutch paddle
So iuse half clutch when ichange from 2to 3 to 4rth and some time inot uee clutch when cars move for not pushing the rear main bearing in block
Good Idea. Thanks!
Good point.
Last new case I bought was in 2005 and it was only $200, the high price of cases today is artificial price manipulation
Better to go easy on folks and have them come back for more than gouge them and never see them again.
Very interesting stuff.
Glad you think so!
Great info.👍
Glad you think so!
Who makes 100k a year?! 😭
Combined my wife and I never did?????
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
So, uh what exactly was the fix?? That was a meandering journey to nowhere?
The fix for your low oil pressure may be installing the correct size piston in your oil relief system. dahhhhhh it don't cost nothing to pay attention my friend. hehehe
@@TheEZGZ Converted and subscribed.
Yay go EzGz. thanks for providing us with interesting, informative and entertaining videos during these times of COVID SMOVID BLOVID what the heck ever that thing is called that's got us all locked down and locked in! Have a great one!
We all got cabin fever. I think it stopped snowing a while back. I want to be free and play. To crowded in this town to fish anywhere...
@@TheEZGZ me too, me too. On this side of the country (NC) I'd just as soon be in a swamp somewhere in Florida catching bass. In the meantime though we have our vws to play around with right?
Today' lesson ; do not try to improve German engineering.
Yes indeed! Let's have a Burrito to celebrate
3 minutes of content and 21 minutes of drivel. C;mon, man.. edit your video. Focus! What was the cause, and how did you fix it? 3 minutes.
U tube don't pay for a 3 minute vid bud. Get real......
@@TheEZGZ So, It's all about the Benjamins.. That's refreshing. an honest answer.
Inflation sucks.
Unless your tire is flat. Yuk Yuk
Different "diameters" not "thicknesses". If you are going to use an engineer's tool, at least learn the vocabulary.