I asked in an earlier video why car enthusiast programs don't often seem to have a component of giving back to the community. Especially with the platform you have, your potential for impact is notable. Mike and DriveTribe: thank you for making this a priority! I would love to see a continued focus on this. Please keep the quality content and community involvement flowing.
Mike, I have been watching Drive Tribe videos for a while and I feel that you have really come along as a presenter. Keep up the great work and I love the cause you are auctioning off the car for. Cheers.
Thank you all for watching the series so far, the final episode will be a special one! Make sure to check out Scotty's Little Soldiers, the charity we will be supporting through this project, the link is in the description 👍
Honestly couldn't believe it when I heard that you guys chose Scotty's! I was really lucky to be supported by them when I was younger and they are an amazing charity who do some incredible work! I owe them so much and it's brilliant to see them being supported on such a big platform! 💚
What an exquisite rebuild, the engine is remarkable. As a Ford guy, the engine with sleeves harkens back to the early 70's Chevy Vega engine and it's revolutionary aluminum block and all the associated problems that went with that that made Ford guys like me giggle. Then came the Pinto gas tank! There was a Cosworth Vega................... Would have liked to have seen the crank, pistons and transmission work as well. As for the cause, beautiful and making a difference for those who sacrificed for us all. Thanks for the update.
The K series was much maligned, but everyone forgets VW produced ropey engines in the 90s also. The 1.4 16v K series could out run an 8v MK3 Golf GTi easily!
This has been one of my favourite series to follow on RUclips, and I love reading all the comments from the experts it is rather humorous. Looking forward to the final episode!
This might be a controversial take. For all the fails MG Rover had, they had very nice styling and dare I say they had some nice tech in their cars for the time. Its a shame they were run so poorly.
Lovely Jubbly video, just shows it wasn't a terrible car, the parts used needed to be of a better quality, the story of many British built cars over the years.
I know nothing about engines but watching this I would love to learn. Maybe this could be my next hobby job. Just need to find a old car to practice on.im of going to look for one
I know next to nothing about cars; but always enjoy these videos & learning little bits in every episode 👌🏼 keep them coming guys! (PS. Great little montage)
Loving this especially as I have one of these in 1.6 😄 they’re well built and a hoot to drive. I also have a VVC 1.8 MGF also lots of fun. A great idea to raise money for this charity with this project 👏.
Watching stuff like this just makes me sad I can't go out and buy a new Rover. It's absolutely tragic they were allowed to go under, they so easily could've been saved :( Incidentally that last title was still harsh. The engine was fixed from the factory in the later years of production. Around 2003 they were fitted with the multi-layer gasket and had a relocated PRT thermostat. Those late cars are very reliable.
factory training taught you to mark the bolts before angle-torqueing, so you could judge the angle of tightening. fancy torque wrenches were the ones that clicked when i did my training in 1989/90
When it comes to torque-to-yield, it is advisable to always do the full sweep in one go, with or without a digital torque wrench. If not, the bolt stretches when ratcheting back and it can be uneven. With a single, smooth rotation (regardless of degrees), all bolts experience the same force during the same amount of time. This guarantees a proper seal, as far as that is possible.
Not true. These bolts have specific procedures and they are tightened down in a pattern in multiple stages to avoid the head becoming torqued down incorrectly and to avoid stress concentrations. This is common practice with torque to yield head bolts.
a friend of mine builds tiny race engines, and that's how he does the run-in. 50 miles of basically drag racing, 1500 miles of heavy-footed driving, and then drive it normal, not a drop of oil burns.
if you build those engines up, lubing up the pistons + bores like normal, they use oil. dry build [pistons/bores] + light revving when first started was the factory advice to prevent this, seemed wrong to me, but it worked
Not doubting Mick's knowledge but head bolt threads should be oiled first and the blue marks are there so you just line them up on a reassemble and the torque is then correct.
If Mike gets the idea from Hammond and starts his own restoration garage along side MAD Ford guys, I would recommend, for our viewing pleasure, of course, invite one of the most prestigious mechanics around the world (Ed China, Jesse James, Scotty Kilmer) for teaming up to restore an old, but not forgotten Ford, like an original Model A, a '32 coupe, maybe even an Edsel! Wouldn't that be great?🤤🙃👨🔧
A few years ago my mechanic asked me the same question. You want to torque it? I said of course. But for the pen, he said "you need way more experience for that!"😊
I totally forgot about this series glad to see the little banger running :) I got reminded though, that I didnt get the bolts replaced when I did this gasket replacement now few years ago on the 214 I sold. Guess the new owners gonna have to deal with it. Sorry man
I would never put low modulus rubberised sealant on cam-chests or crankcase joins. A thin smidgen of liquid sealant like Loctite 508 for instance, is all that is required,you are only sealing the tiny imperfections in precisely machined faces. Any depth in sealant added to the join,however small is therefore directly added to the bearing clearance and on these in particular the sealant gets forced into the narrow feed veins when the top half is clamped down,something I have seen so many times over the years that I was starting to think it was meant to be there😁.Newer engines,BMW in particular have a bolt on either side of the crankcase at the join between upper and lower halves, both of which have a semi circular channel machined in their mating surface. you fit the two halves together dry to eliminate any clearance issues, then remove the two bolts and inject sealant into the holes,this then travels along the vein sealing both halves without creating a gap of any size,it's that critical.
It all depends on the design of the engine and the required clearances. Please bear in mind the K-series is more or less 30 years old now, so I think the contribution of the sealant on the clearances is acceptable for this engine. Many OEMs have used rubberised sealant in similar applications, so if the official workshop manual states you can use it, there should be no issue.
I was trying to see what he used on the cam bearing ladder, but it went by too quick. It’s supposed to be an anaerobic sealant, so Loctite 574 or Threebond 1133E
My first car was a 1973 austin 1300 gt. It cost me £30 in 1981, strangely enough it was in Kirknewton, I was in the military attached to the Gordon highlanders. The car came in bits and I restored it and used it problem free for a while, I was sent to the Falklands and when I returned the car had been trashed by the local darling children. I was devastated. Needless to say it was scrapped
TBF the MG ZR in a hole was a ticking time bomb, the build quality was horrendous. When I bought mine in 2004 from my local MG dealer, I got it home and struggled to open the door, gave it some force and the door open, pulling the drives door card off at the same time.... But I did enjoy the car,was my first car and just 18 months old when I bought it with 32k on clock so I imagine it may been a reps car. MT03 VGF was the plate on it.
Thank you to Liqui Moly for sponsoring this video! Check out their products here: bit.ly/exploreliquimoly
I asked in an earlier video why car enthusiast programs don't often seem to have a component of giving back to the community. Especially with the platform you have, your potential for impact is notable. Mike and DriveTribe: thank you for making this a priority! I would love to see a continued focus on this. Please keep the quality content and community involvement flowing.
thumbs up for the shop cat sitting on the bench.
What about the REME Corp flag in the background
I'm glad someone is showing some love for MG/Rover
The montage at 15:00 was fantastic. Some Edgar wright feels
I’d say more Guy Richie feels 😋 but I get you 😊
Editing/filmmaking in this video was next level. Keep up this production value! Makes videos so much better/easier to watch!
a lot of /'s
@@darudek6016 Guns 'n' Roses up in here haha
Big up Project Nigel
Ah. Thank you 😁
This Chanel has to be one of the best on you tube keep the great content comin
Why miss off the 'g'? It doesn't make you sound cool. It makes you sound about 47 years old...
@@Eat-MyGoal
*COOKPASS BABTRIDGE*
MAD Ford is genuinely a bastion of quality, unpretentious and extremely skillful engineering. What a job they're doing!
100%
I love him wiping everything clean with a bit of cloth that looks like he found it in a swamp.
That cloth been in Micks Pocket for years, its been a very reliable piece of cloth
@@BongoIsABiscuit indeed it has, nothing like a bit of swamp muck
Mike, I have been watching Drive Tribe videos for a while and I feel that you have really come along as a presenter. Keep up the great work and I love the cause you are auctioning off the car for. Cheers.
14:50 guys, the editing on drivetribe lately is just masterclass!
Ugh. Hearing that K fire up makes me really miss my 1.8 ZS. Such a fun car.
Great to see the REME flag in the background!
As a long time owner of Rover 416 Si and his K series inevitable problems, I really appreciate this restoration and love for brand!
Thank you all for watching the series so far, the final episode will be a special one! Make sure to check out Scotty's Little Soldiers, the charity we will be supporting through this project, the link is in the description 👍
Honestly couldn't believe it when I heard that you guys chose Scotty's! I was really lucky to be supported by them when I was younger and they are an amazing charity who do some incredible work! I owe them so much and it's brilliant to see them being supported on such a big platform! 💚
Mike
Did you check the liner heights before going 3 layer head gasket
@@andrewglasby6317
Yep, they used a dial gauge.
Brilliant. The more of these cars are saved the better in my opinion. The attention to detail is really impressive
This is basically an educational video disguised as internetainment. Love it.
Internetainmainment, Shakespeare would be proud of that one
What an exquisite rebuild, the engine is remarkable. As a Ford guy, the engine with sleeves harkens back to the early 70's Chevy Vega engine and it's revolutionary aluminum block and all the associated problems that went with that that made Ford guys like me giggle. Then came the Pinto gas tank! There was a Cosworth Vega...................
Would have liked to have seen the crank, pistons and transmission work as well. As for the cause, beautiful and making a difference for those who sacrificed for us all. Thanks for the update.
Building your first engine is a great experience. Nothing better to build both understanding and ongoing mechanical sympathy.
Love Scotties little soldiers, great charity to support Drive Tribe
The animation for the engine rebuild was very well made! It reminded me of the excellent Red line rebuilds 👌
The K series was much maligned, but everyone forgets VW produced ropey engines in the 90s also. The 1.4 16v K series could out run an 8v MK3 Golf GTi easily!
Don’t forget the recent twincharged 1.4tsi from 2009ish that are well known for blowing up. And unlike the K series that’s not an easy fix
@@JG-ge3ui
That's still pretty bad... a serious failure.
Really?! Huh, guess imma start racing this thing after getting some mods
What happened to the V10 MX5.
Probably not enough progress for a video
This has been one of my favourite series to follow on RUclips, and I love reading all the comments from the experts it is rather humorous. Looking forward to the final episode!
REALLY nice editing on the assembly montage. Very energetic and fun to watch.
I liked the sequence where you built the engine and some funky music goes on hehe
This might be a controversial take. For all the fails MG Rover had, they had very nice styling and dare I say they had some nice tech in their cars for the time. Its a shame they were run so poorly.
Controversial, but absolutely correct Zaixai.
Modern day manufactures are not much is at all better but oddly we just accept it yet the older stuff gets all the stick
I have an mg zs powered by the zr160 engine, amazing car on amazing suspension
Lovely Jubbly video, just shows it wasn't a terrible car, the parts used needed to be of a better quality, the story of many British built cars over the years.
What an awesome charity this will go towards. Congrats
Absolutely class these car build episodes
Always nice to watch an expert at work!
Nice big REME flag at the back of the workshop there! Arte et Marte (Party!)
Would love to see that ZT-T finally being treated to a wash !
Gotta love project nigel!
rover 25 is so cool
I know nothing about engines but watching this I would love to learn. Maybe this could be my next hobby job. Just need to find a old car to practice on.im of going to look for one
I had an adjustable pulley on my exhaust cam set at minus 0.5 and it made a big difference nice car by the way 👍
Love this build and that car is looking amazing!
I know next to nothing about cars; but always enjoy these videos & learning little bits in every episode 👌🏼 keep them coming guys! (PS. Great little montage)
Amazing project. Can’t wait for the final episode - and to find out which interior finds it’s way in 👍🏻👍🏻
Loving this especially as I have one of these in 1.6 😄 they’re well built and a hoot to drive. I also have a VVC 1.8 MGF also lots of fun. A great idea to raise money for this charity with this project 👏.
Coolest torque wrench ever. She's coming along nicely guys.👌
I had the same ZR…modified it as per early noughties years!! Wish I had never sold it…future classic!!
Watching stuff like this just makes me sad I can't go out and buy a new Rover. It's absolutely tragic they were allowed to go under, they so easily could've been saved :(
Incidentally that last title was still harsh. The engine was fixed from the factory in the later years of production. Around 2003 they were fitted with the multi-layer gasket and had a relocated PRT thermostat. Those late cars are very reliable.
There's some trust for you right there being allowed to be in charge of the blue paint pen.
factory training taught you to mark the bolts before angle-torqueing, so you could judge the angle of tightening. fancy torque wrenches were the ones that clicked when i did my training in 1989/90
WOT? Smallest Cog not doing this?
The smallest cog wasn’t open at the time of this restoration
@@Roverjoe They should have moved over last month.
@@brianpercival1829 they're not gonna move over mid project.
Who giggles everytime he says 'TEA-BAGGED'?
Depends, I'm laughing at the generational divide of kids playing Halo Infinite and getting Tea-bagged and being confused.
Gotta love Mexie posing at 16:31
You never want the Jar Jar Binks of head gaskets.
Meeesa go bomba-boom!…. Said no one 😂👌
When it comes to torque-to-yield, it is advisable to always do the full sweep in one go, with or without a digital torque wrench.
If not, the bolt stretches when ratcheting back and it can be uneven. With a single, smooth rotation (regardless of degrees), all bolts experience the same force during the same amount of time. This guarantees a proper seal, as far as that is possible.
Not true. These bolts have specific procedures and they are tightened down in a pattern in multiple stages to avoid the head becoming torqued down incorrectly and to avoid stress concentrations. This is common practice with torque to yield head bolts.
I agree , 1 think I was 20nm , 180° x 180° between the 180's the bolts rest/stretch
Not 20nm 45,45,45,45x 45,45,45,45
Cracking video I'm excited to see the next but also sad it will all be over
The Jamo speakers on the walls let me know that these are my kind of people 👌
i have Jamos everywhere, top tunes deserve top speakers
@@MadFordEngineering some very loud Prodigy....?
@@whos-your-mate defiantly sir
Kudos to this shop for doing the absolutely amazing work. But to be fair on Hammond, give him a project too please.
Great you didn't bin the k. (also should be ulez compliant as the 1.6 is.
The reason you torque in steps is to ensure the compression happens evenly and doesn't warp the part.
You know what's on the cards boys, rev the bollocks off it before running it in so your oil control rings get nice and bedded in!!!
a friend of mine builds tiny race engines, and that's how he does the run-in. 50 miles of basically drag racing, 1500 miles of heavy-footed driving, and then drive it normal, not a drop of oil burns.
if you build those engines up, lubing up the pistons + bores like normal, they use oil.
dry build [pistons/bores] + light revving when first started was the factory advice to prevent this, seemed wrong to me, but it worked
you clearly havent been watching the live streams of this build then during filming of these videos
Not doubting Mick's knowledge but head bolt threads should be oiled first and the blue marks are there so you just line them up on a reassemble and the torque is then correct.
Love the REME flag in background. Arte et Marte brother.
What s job, talented lads
If Mike gets the idea from Hammond and starts his own restoration garage along side MAD Ford guys, I would recommend, for our viewing pleasure, of course, invite one of the most prestigious mechanics around the world (Ed China, Jesse James, Scotty Kilmer) for teaming up to restore an old, but not forgotten Ford, like an original Model A, a '32 coupe, maybe even an Edsel! Wouldn't that be great?🤤🙃👨🔧
Didn't think about dropping in a T16 ?
A few years ago my mechanic asked me the same question. You want to torque it? I said of course. But for the pen, he said "you need way more experience for that!"😊
I totally forgot about this series glad to see the little banger running :) I got reminded though, that I didnt get the bolts replaced when I did this gasket replacement now few years ago on the 214 I sold. Guess the new owners gonna have to deal with it. Sorry man
Glad to see you kept an eye on the dash lights when it started up lol 😂
Indeed - in one ear, and out the other.
I would never put low modulus rubberised sealant on cam-chests or crankcase joins. A thin smidgen of liquid sealant like Loctite 508 for instance, is all that is required,you are only sealing the tiny imperfections in precisely machined faces. Any depth in sealant added to the join,however small is therefore directly added to the bearing clearance and on these in particular the sealant gets forced into the narrow feed veins when the top half is clamped down,something I have seen so many times over the years that I was starting to think it was meant to be there😁.Newer engines,BMW in particular have a bolt on either side of the crankcase at the join between upper and lower halves, both of which have a semi circular channel machined in their mating surface. you fit the two halves together dry to eliminate any clearance issues, then remove the two bolts and inject sealant into the holes,this then travels along the vein sealing both halves without creating a gap of any size,it's that critical.
It all depends on the design of the engine and the required clearances. Please bear in mind the K-series is more or less 30 years old now, so I think the contribution of the sealant on the clearances is acceptable for this engine. Many OEMs have used rubberised sealant in similar applications, so if the official workshop manual states you can use it, there should be no issue.
I was trying to see what he used on the cam bearing ladder, but it went by too quick.
It’s supposed to be an anaerobic sealant, so Loctite 574 or Threebond 1133E
Would be nice to see that grubby expansion bottle changed for new....
A new one has been ordered, thanks for the comment
@@MadFordEngineering I did wonder, I didn't think you'd go so far without changing it
cant wait to see a resto battle between mad ford and smallest cog :-)
Nicely done mate
Amazing stuff :D
This is awesome
Never come across a digital torque wrench, must be living in the 20th century! Mine just clicks!!
I’ve seen ones that beep at the torque setting; never even heard of ones that do angular settings.
@@emma.j.nation
Very swish! I didn't realise you get could get an audio confirmation angle tightening wrench either! I do want!
My first car was a 1973 austin 1300 gt. It cost me £30 in 1981, strangely enough it was in Kirknewton, I was in the military attached to the Gordon highlanders. The car came in bits and I restored it and used it problem free for a while, I was sent to the Falklands and when I returned the car had been trashed by the local darling children. I was devastated. Needless to say it was scrapped
Class act to be using the car to raise money for charity!
16:04 KITTY! \o/
Great job 👍
Last I checked sounding like a Lancaster bomber was no bad thing.... ;)
Car getting there 🚘🚘👍👍👍👍
Nice torque wrench. "Make the Noise".
I had a 1.6 with a full body kit on, everyone loved that kit find the oem kits its classic
I have a 45 love it
Mad Ford are legends
“Keep your eye on all the lights and if they stay on turn off immediately”…… starts up and doesn’t even look 😄😄
I noticed that too
project Nigel! hes a legend he had a drive in my blue rover 25 called rain and a modified rover on his channel
Great stuff
What do you do to prep the threads before the torque procedure? Should they be just wiped clean, cleaned with a solvent, slightly lubricated?
Liqui Moly stuff is the best I have used
TBF the MG ZR in a hole was a ticking time bomb, the build quality was horrendous. When I bought mine in 2004 from my local MG dealer, I got it home and struggled to open the door, gave it some force and the door open, pulling the drives door card off at the same time.... But I did enjoy the car,was my first car and just 18 months old when I bought it with 32k on clock so I imagine it may been a reps car. MT03 VGF was the plate on it.
I'd love a cost breakdown of this at the end
Seemed a bit aggressive with torquing those bolts. What was the hurry?
no oil in the head bolts before tightening, 3 layer gasket with liner protrusion?? Guess everybody do as they pleased.
Is there much left of the shell I could use a boot floor.
9:25 is BS head bolts are re-usable as long as they are within spec. Rover service manuals confirm this.
Ford blue marks on the torqued bolts.
Is there a sweeter sound than the first start of a rebuilt engine. 👍🇦🇺
No
That chassis, Ship of Theseus/Triggers broom?
Didn't fancy putting the 135 cams in?
I love the workshop because of the REME flag and that there is a cat
When will the auction be for the the restored car.?
Nice car