This is exactly what I needed. Thank you. Remodeled home and drywall extensions right up to my basement hopper windows. Water stains and peeling paint, slight mold after 4 years. Doubt they properly insulated around the window as well, assuming condensation. Keep up the good work.
In this video I explain how to frame your basement exterior walls around existing exterior windows and doors correctly...in preparation for wooden extension jambs and wood trim installation. Great video for beginning framers looking for PRO window and door Framing Tips.
@@BasementFinishingMan my biggest question was it isa single walk out door and i was Concerned on how it will jaunt in to the door with extending the door jamb and now when the door opens it doesn’t swing all the way around to open up
@@BasementFinishingMan Thanks so much ... there is no way i would of attempted this without your video’s and now wall 1 is done to perfection and feel i can now take the rest on but gonna watch the stairs with banister video a few hundred times when i get to that point! now if you could just lower the wood prices back and not what they call this the new normal 🤔
I just finished framing 2 of 8 basement windows and I almost didn’t click this one because I didn’t want to see what I messed up. Turns out I did it right! Thanks for the confirmation!
Hi Eddie, How will you attach your extension jamb to the existing 3/4" window casing? Is there a good way to do that without creating an ugly seam? With XPS insulation+ framing on a 10" foundation my jamb will need to be ~14" deep. I'm guessing I'm going to have to put a couple pieces together to cover that depth. Would love to hear how you'd go about that.
Hi im ur new subriber!! Watching ur video cause i just bought a new house with unfinished basement, is there any info that you can share where i can pre draw the design for the basement?? Thankyou.
Great videos. Thank-you. Have you ever considered framing a tapered opening around the windows and doors (especially when using lited doors) to let more sunlight in?
Hi Eddie. Thank you for your awesome videos. I watched your 6 part series and thought I was ready for framing but now I got to know about steel stud framing and in a dilemma whether to use it or not. With wood stud prices skyrocketing and steel studs kind of look easier to handle I am not sure which way to go. Would love a video on that. Thank you!
Love the videos. I have 2 exterior pre-hung doors to garage and porch that will not open fully once i've framed around them due to interference from the hinges. Is this a remove and replace of the pre-hungs or is there another technique I could use? Again - fantastic stuff. THANKS>
In the other video (where you frame around the egress window) you showed framing to the edge of the concrete. I can't quite see the detail in the video... is that because the egress window did not have a pressure treated buck frame around it? Thanks so much for clarifying. Super video, btw! Very helpful. I am remodeling a 100 year old CMU block house and though it's 2 stories above ground, I pretty much have to treat it as a basement since it's concrete with no interior framing or insulation.
Yes it is clear. Unfortunately I’m framing a basement where I can’t tell what the builder attached the door frame to, because there’s a horizontal 2x4 in front of it with a horizontal 1x4 used as trim covering that … not vertically oriented as you’d expect for attaching to the concrete. And so all of it is flush with the door jamb. I’m finishing with 1/8” panel boards which will run more of less flush with the door frame. It’s a compromise because I’m not about to demo all the wood around the door frame just to see what they did. It’s dry and protected from the elements with an outside overhang.
how wide does a piece of pine come in for wooden extension jambs? Also, what is the length? I needed about 8 inch wide extension jambs so I used two pieces of 4.5" wide MDF and budded them together. It did take longer to make for all of my windows and side entrance door except it was a lot cheaper. I do regret it now because I can see the joint of where the two pieces of MDF meet. should've posted this video earlier Eddie! oh well lol
Hi Steve! Yes that is correct...you won't be starting the jambs until after drywall so the correct depth of the wood jambs will include the thickness of the drywall (1//2"). ~Eddie
Hi Eddie wanted to know if you can guide me on framing hopper windows due to the concrete where the window is at the concrete is slanted I do know what to do if you can help would really appreciate thank you
I normally chip the concrete away and make it squared-off so I can get my framing even with the actual window bottom. It’s a pain in the ass to do but it makes for a nice finished product come window jamb time! -Eddie
I noticed you do not use king / jack studs around the windows & doors, why not? This is traditionally how they are done because it is strong & not just relying on a couple nails to hold everything at the top.
You do not need "structural" king and jack studs in basement framing projects. King and jack studs are used to "support" headers. Headers are what hold up and support a "load" above a window or door opening where there is an absence of wall studs to carry the load down to the floor. Since basement walls are not load bearing at all...meaning they do not support any load above them at all... they do not need to have Jack and King studs installed at door and window openings. Installing these would be useless and not very cost effective. I hope that makes sense to you! ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Cool, alright. I thought framers did this for non load bearing walls too.. Thanks for responding, your video series are legendary!
I was looking for an answer to exactly the same question. Thanks!
You can just tell this dude is a master of his craft. Great videos! Very much appreciate how you explain things! Thank you for these!
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you. Remodeled home and drywall extensions right up to my basement hopper windows. Water stains and peeling paint, slight mold after 4 years. Doubt they properly insulated around the window as well, assuming condensation. Keep up the good work.
Best explanation I've found on RUclips! Thanks for the video. Perfect timing for my basement window replacement project.
Thanks for watching my brother! ~Eddie
In this video I explain how to frame your basement exterior walls around existing exterior windows and doors correctly...in preparation for wooden extension jambs and wood trim installation. Great video for beginning framers looking for PRO window and door Framing Tips.
I was just going to ask the question! perfect timing 😀
Well Alright!!
@@BasementFinishingMan my biggest question was it isa single walk out door and i was Concerned on how it will jaunt in to the door with extending the door jamb and now when the door opens it doesn’t swing all the way around to open up
@@mwhelpley5 That is the case! But...It's the way it needs to done...There is no other way Mike. ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Thanks so much ... there is no way i would of attempted this without your video’s and now wall 1 is done to perfection and feel i can now take the rest on but gonna watch the stairs with banister video a few hundred times when i get to that point! now if you could just lower the wood prices back and not what they call this the new normal 🤔
Your videos are the best. Thank you Eddie!
I just finished framing 2 of 8 basement windows and I almost didn’t click this one because I didn’t want to see what I messed up. Turns out I did it right! Thanks for the confirmation!
Awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate the comment! ~Eddie
Excellent explanation, thank you!
Thanks for watching Five-Forty!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Excellent video.
Hi Eddie,
How will you attach your extension jamb to the existing 3/4" window casing? Is there a good way to do that without creating an ugly seam?
With XPS insulation+ framing on a 10" foundation my jamb will need to be ~14" deep. I'm guessing I'm going to have to put a couple pieces together to cover that depth. Would love to hear how you'd go about that.
Hi im ur new subriber!! Watching ur video cause i just bought a new house with unfinished basement, is there any info that you can share where i can pre draw the design for the basement?? Thankyou.
Great videos. Thank-you. Have you ever considered framing a tapered opening around the windows and doors (especially when using lited doors) to let more sunlight in?
Hi Eddie. Thank you for your awesome videos. I watched your 6 part series and thought I was ready for framing but now I got to know about steel stud framing and in a dilemma whether to use it or not. With wood stud prices skyrocketing and steel studs kind of look easier to handle I am not sure which way to go. Would love a video on that. Thank you!
Love the videos. I have 2 exterior pre-hung doors to garage and porch that will not open fully once i've framed around them due to interference from the hinges. Is this a remove and replace of the pre-hungs or is there another technique I could use? Again - fantastic stuff. THANKS>
In the other video (where you frame around the egress window) you showed framing to the edge of the concrete. I can't quite see the detail in the video... is that because the egress window did not have a pressure treated buck frame around it? Thanks so much for clarifying. Super video, btw! Very helpful. I am remodeling a 100 year old CMU block house and though it's 2 stories above ground, I pretty much have to treat it as a basement since it's concrete with no interior framing or insulation.
That is correct. There was no wood frame around the window so we framed to the concrete edge instead. ~Eddie
Nice video but when U have those small windows with very small L metal frame attached to the concrete what is the edge for framing ?
Yes it is clear. Unfortunately I’m framing a basement where I can’t tell what the builder attached the door frame to, because there’s a horizontal 2x4 in front of it with a horizontal 1x4 used as trim covering that … not vertically oriented as you’d expect for attaching to the concrete. And so all of it is flush with the door jamb.
I’m finishing with 1/8” panel boards which will run more of less flush with the door frame. It’s a compromise because I’m not about to demo all the wood around the door frame just to see what they did. It’s dry and protected from the elements with an outside overhang.
What if you have a single 36in walk out door with inward swing. How do you frame to allow door to fully swing
You don't...It will only open in against the extended door jamb...period. But that is usually fine for most people... ~Eddie
how wide does a piece of pine come in for wooden extension jambs? Also, what is the length? I needed about 8 inch wide extension jambs so I used two pieces of 4.5" wide MDF and budded them together. It did take longer to make for all of my windows and side entrance door except it was a lot cheaper. I do regret it now because I can see the joint of where the two pieces of MDF meet. should've posted this video earlier Eddie! oh well lol
You can get solid wood that wide .. you could always re-do the casing if it bothers you .
Shouldn't the width of the extension jambs and wood trim be taken to the surface of the dry wall and not the stud?
Hi Steve! Yes that is correct...you won't be starting the jambs until after drywall so the correct depth of the wood jambs will include the thickness of the drywall (1//2"). ~Eddie
Hi Eddie wanted to know if you can guide me on framing hopper windows due to the concrete where the window is at the concrete is slanted I do know what to do if you can help would really appreciate thank you
I normally chip the concrete away and make it squared-off so I can get my framing even with the actual window bottom. It’s a pain in the ass to do but it makes for a nice finished product come window jamb time! -Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan i can’t chip anything away it’s like in an angle I wish I could send you a picture
What if the windows are ugly, metal casement windows set into the concrete walls? How should those be framed and finished?
I noticed you do not use king / jack studs around the windows & doors, why not? This is traditionally how they are done because it is strong & not just relying on a couple nails to hold everything at the top.
You do not need "structural" king and jack studs in basement framing projects.
King and jack studs are used to "support" headers. Headers are what hold up and support a "load" above a window or door opening where there is an absence of wall studs to carry the load down to the floor.
Since basement walls are not load bearing at all...meaning they do not support any load above them at all... they do not need to have Jack and King studs installed at door and window openings. Installing these would be useless and not very cost effective.
I hope that makes sense to you! ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan Cool, alright. I thought framers did this for non load bearing walls too.. Thanks for responding, your video series are legendary!
@@BasementFinishingMan thank you for this reply! No other vids I've watched had explained this. I needed to know this!
@@Jubileejones You are most welcome Jubilee! ~Eddie
👍👍
not 90% of the time. Most in my area are cast in place. Too small for wood.
That just makes the install a little bit tougher! Thanks for watching! ~Eddie