Sawed Off Coach Gun Stoeger 12 Gauge Action Job
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
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A tip for re-installing the break lever spring: there is a small hole through the rod that the spring slides on. If you compress he spring first, then insert a pin through that hole, it will hold the spring in a compressed position while re-inserting the rod with the spring. After you re-insert the break lever rod with the spring on it, just pull out the small pin that has holding the spring tension.
This is great info. Im about to make some changes to my Stoeger.
Just got my Stoeger 31460 single trigger in two days ago and have replaced the firing pins with stainless ones. I had pre-ordered the firing pins since I knew they had issues and the stories are true. I only put 6 shells through it and the left pin was already slightly bent. I just got through polishing the extractor, break open contact points, cut down the spring and guide rod and it's a totally different animal now.
Watched your video after watching the other guy and you did explain some good points. First off, my Stoeger was purchased in the early 90s so there is no metric measurements. The buttstock bolt is 7/16" , and using a 12" Extension makes it easy to remove. I them did everything You suggested and it came out SWEET. So much easier to load. I did not shorten the safety engage rod. Thanks Steve
That's one nice boomstick.
hold open toplever insert pin through the spring guide release toplever and remove guide and spring ....
Nice informational video. I plan to modify my Uplander using this info. One thing - I never saw a good full shot of your entire sawed off shotgun, anywhere in this video.
One thing to remember with break action shotguns. They are supposed to be stiff from the factory. After 1,000 to 3,000 shells they will loosen up significantly. If you loosen them too much when new they may become looser than you would like them to be and that may also contribute to prematurely wearing out parts like the pivot pin. The Stoegers are cheap so that may not be a concern. Though, I would let $1,000-$2000+++ guns break in naturally.
Most people will never shoot 1,000 shells through one.
@@randomgamer-st1ie and it doesn't hurt to polish any mating surfaces as long as it's done with a light and careful touch. Speeds up any burnishing process that may take over 2000 rounds or action opening cycles. Just don't be grinding on anything but for perhaps a spring coil removal and/or removing a small portion of the length of the action spring pin to defeat the auto safety while retaining a normal on/off safety function.
Yes it made it an SBS and I registered it before I cut it down. I guy I met online that did the wood working for me. If you go to my video shooting it I think i have a link to his info in the description. The barrels cut to the end of this particular forend, which is roughly 11 inches.
Steve_MP5 looks badass as an SBS, particularly that furniture. I just a Stoeger Coach Gun I plan to use for Cowboy Action but if I think to become a "stamp collector" I might with a 2nd Stoeger and SBS the thing.
Thank you for the informative video. The other one was good but yours answered even more questions that arised. You do it in layman terms and I appreciate that.
Nice work, several people have done this and it does make it better.
You can also sand up the chambers to extract the shells better too
Get a car brake honer at an auto parts shop and hone at slow speed with a drill motor.
I slicked up all the parts that were suggested. Thought opening it was still a pain up until I shortened the spring & safety engagement rod. Suggestion to make it easier to remove rod first time. Pull both triggers and move spring/rod down towards the bottom corner, this will allow enough space to remove rod! I measured the before and after cutting of spring and rod. Rod was 1.904 inches long, after shorting it is 1.45 inches long. Spring was 1.675 inches long, after shorting it two rings 1.285 inches. To rengage triggers install buttstock, put a board on floor. Push down (force is about 75 pounds) with forks out in board, you'll hear a click resetting triggers. Now when I disengage the barrel it just falls open!
Very well spoken and demonstrated video sir. I think it's the best one I have seen so far that explains this process. Thank you.
Brilliant and easy. Great video. Thanks.
You can buy a Repacement spring with less Tension from "Longhunter" shooting supply, $5.00 ea. Mine are on the Way. At 3:58 your finger is right next to a small pin you can tap out to fix that safety issue
If anyone else has a loose foregrip, just find a thin strip of rubber and super glue it to the part of the wood that makes contact with the barrel, and it'll be snug
I bought a new replacement spring and it was shorter and less thick. Did the same thing without cutting the original.
Where did you get the replacement spring ?
I had the exact same issue with my extractor. It was so tight on the sides (poor fitting) that the gun wouldn't open. I filed down and fitted the sides and now it opens so much easier.
You shouldn't cut your original parts. Get a new spring to replace it instead.
very helpful video... thanks
You should have reblued the parts you polish since you remove the bluing
Wonderful
Be careful not to take many coils off the spring
I’ve always preferred hammered shotguns for the same reason,
plus they look good
That coil spring doesn't also operate the twin firing pins does it?
How in the Sam hell did you remove the rod and spring? I can't get the spring to budge using a fork or flathead
Needle nose pliers
Same problem here! As far as using needle nosed pliers for that , I seriously doubt that is doable...I tried everything I could think of including using a small ingnition wrench to hold the spring back and it would bow the wrench ..that spring is seriously strong! I think they must have been working on guns produced in earlier years ..my 2020 produced 20 gauge has a monster strong spring. .In my opinion it will take a specifically designed tool or jig to remove that spring...not possible with a kitchen fork or needle nose pliers...try it on a new gun!
I also used needle nose pliers. Grab the pin that has the. Spring on it near the front of the pin, near where it is inserted into the divot. Then pivot the pliers against another part of the receiver. You just have to get it out of that divot, then you can use a screwdriver to push it the rest of the way out.
@@eagleviewhd I managed to get it out by using a small gear puller....took the arms off the puller T-arm and ran a wire through the holes on gear puller T-arm, around the tip of the spring rod a couple times then tied the end through the other hole in the T-arm...then just tightened the puller screw until the rod was free and just pushed it out.. took a little finagling but that worked for me...Thanks! Cheers!
Can anyone point me to a video about intalling the hammers back into this shotgun?
Hey Steve I saw your video and did the same thing to my Stoeger coach gun. It is brand new and hasn’t had any rounds shot through it yet. I spent hours today polishing all the same pieces that you pictured and everything is still way too tight. I haven’t cut any springs yet but it should still break open easier than right out of the box. I spent two hours on the ejector rod alone and I still have to use something to push it out. Should I shoot the gun before polishing any of the parts again? I’m thinking that perhaps after shooting a box of shells through it, maybe itll loosen up a bit.
Stephen Ayala I don’t think that will make much difference, you could try though. Are all those surfaces smooth and shinny? If not that is your problem. Use some polishing agent if you haven’t already. I think the key is if it isn’t shinny and smooth then it’s not polished enough. I still put a drop of oil on those surfaces though when it’s together just to help it slide around.
I know this is an old post but my stoeger coach gun wouldn't open recently and I had to pound it open with a block of wood. It turns out the issue was with the extractor. I polished the extractor rod but it still didn't help much. It turns out that it was not the extractor rod but the fitting of the sides of the face of the extractor to the chambers. It was not fit correctly and would have to be jammed in when closing. I filled the sides of the extractor where it meets the mating surfaces of the chamber and it made a huge difference. Mine had been so tight that it bent the extractor rod slightly due to all of the force required to open the gun. So if polishing the extractor rod doesn't work, take a look at where the extractor face meets the chamber. My guess is that it needs to be filed to fit without binding.
Isin't there a spring behind your extractor, to push the shells forward ?
Robert Boreman mine didn’t have that. I assume none of them do.
It pushes the shell out when the barrel gets opened. Theres no spring for it. It gets pushed by a small bar when it opens.
I just finished cutting 3mm (1/8”) off my lock spring and it works great. No more annoying auto-safety and it works like normal when I move it manually.
i just sanded the shit out of mine.... no coil cut needed....
i wonder what kind of meterial they use for the reciever
google plus sucks metal
Did you cut the stock yourself or did you have a place where you purchased it
bullet knew a guy who could do it. Talked about that and who in my shooting video.
Does that affect the trigger pull????????
I believe the trigger pull weight is determined by the flat springs that run across each.
Did you cut the two springs from the front or back of the spring? Or does it matter?
Stephen Ayala it’s just that one spring. Doesn’t matter what side.
Cutting the spring makes it kind of uneven, I just reset it to the largest surface. The area pointing towards the back of the shotgun.
👍Aí entende
How did you get the stock off?
mj011n1r there is a screw in the butt that holds it on
Steve, if I give you my email address or cell number, can you text me or email me a few pictures of the gun and the barrels looking at them from the front? I am curious how you finished it off. Also do you happen to have Ryan’s email address for the stock?
Johnny Chambers Ryan’s contact info is a n the video of me shooting it. It is his IG page. The tips of the barrels were just dipped in blueing. All you need is gun blue. Clean the area with alcohol and apply it. There is videos on how to blue metal. Really easy.
Thanks brother I really appreciate it.