Great episode! For me it would be super interesting to have you talking about one-day-projects. A lot of my climbing is done on weekend trips. And even on longer trips my folks often dont want to return to the exact same crag another day. Especially the less strong and less ambitious people I love a lot to hang out with. So how can I make the best out of a single day at a crag?
I agree with Tom fudge pointing is where it is at. I like to do a lot of on sightings or second go red pointing on small trips to new areas. I rarely climb anything hard doing this but it is a lot more fun than getting stuck on a route, and I still feel like I am right on my edge of ability if I choose the grades right. Also my trips are pretty short. Less than a week most of the time.
Glad you spoke about the clipstick as a tactical tool. So many Euro climbers still seem to frown at the use of it, referring to it as a cheat stick. Many misunderstand why its used in redpointing.
Yeah guilty as a fudge pointer✋😅 I often feel bad for my belayer when I check out every little move for hours. Especially on short trips. Also like Tom said it's more fun sometimes. Question for you guys: Don't you think fudge pointing can be a good training for onsights?
Would you say its worth putting alot of time into projecting at your limit in the easier grades (7a and below) or do you think climbing a bunch of volume on a rock type you dont have ready access too would be more useful? Edit: Also I imagine the algorithm tells you it's better to have two 20min videos and thats maybe why they are split but maybe a small intro recorded separately from the discussion at the start just as a preface to the video?
In general, volume and variety is the most important part of your early journey... but... some time spent working things right at your limit is really important too! Just keep the focus on the former 😊
Best advise I got for the 2nd preclip - do what you are comfortable. Climb for yourself. Happend to me resently. Preclipped the 2nd cause I didn't feel secure on a old school 6c with bouldery start. Fell doing a move above it. Did it free on the next go, but was not happy with myself that I had to clip it. My friend and belayer told me to just enjoy it, climb it for myself, and if is so important to repeat it once I feel Ok with it.
@@rampel1 That's definitly a healthy aporoach. But the kind of old school ethics in my area actually say that it is not a redpoint anymore. It is even very controversial to preclip at all ;) But you won't come in the situation to preclip the second bolt anyway when it's out of reach for any avaliable clip stick... Seems like the old and bold dudes back then had a different sence of safety...
I think first clip is always ok, and second makes sense if the first is super close to the ground. Also if there are more than say 12 clips the difference between first and second seems much less important. But if there are like 6 clips or fewer than getting the second seems kinda goofy.
@@karimchahine4883 I agree there are situations when I do it too but the normal case is not to pre-clip anything. Your belayer should know how to spot you (bouldering existed before crash pads) and rarely are the first moves to the first draw hard for the overall grade of the route. I don't know anyone who owns a clip-stick...
Great episode! For me it would be super interesting to have you talking about one-day-projects. A lot of my climbing is done on weekend trips. And even on longer trips my folks often dont want to return to the exact same crag another day. Especially the less strong and less ambitious people I love a lot to hang out with. So how can I make the best out of a single day at a crag?
I agree with Tom fudge pointing is where it is at. I like to do a lot of on sightings or second go red pointing on small trips to new areas. I rarely climb anything hard doing this but it is a lot more fun than getting stuck on a route, and I still feel like I am right on my edge of ability if I choose the grades right. Also my trips are pretty short. Less than a week most of the time.
Glad you spoke about the clipstick as a tactical tool. So many Euro climbers still seem to frown at the use of it, referring to it as a cheat stick. Many misunderstand why its used in redpointing.
Sorry, I still thinks it's lame. Worth a frown. 😅
My favourite thing about sport rping is all the details and everyone's different approaches and lituals
You said you were going to talking about Sport and Bouldering but just did the former. Any chance of an equivalent episode that applies to bouldering?
Yeah guilty as a fudge pointer✋😅 I often feel bad for my belayer when I check out every little move for hours. Especially on short trips. Also like Tom said it's more fun sometimes. Question for you guys: Don't you think fudge pointing can be a good training for onsights?
what about one day or weekend projecting? how to structure a 1-2 day trip around a central project.
Thanks guys!
Would you say its worth putting alot of time into projecting at your limit in the easier grades (7a and below) or do you think climbing a bunch of volume on a rock type you dont have ready access too would be more useful?
Edit: Also I imagine the algorithm tells you it's better to have two 20min videos and thats maybe why they are split but maybe a small intro recorded separately from the discussion at the start just as a preface to the video?
In general, volume and variety is the most important part of your early journey... but... some time spent working things right at your limit is really important too! Just keep the focus on the former 😊
@@LatticeTraining Cheers
Preclipping the second bolt is basicly toproping ;)
Ooooh controversial!
Best advise I got for the 2nd preclip - do what you are comfortable. Climb for yourself. Happend to me resently. Preclipped the 2nd cause I didn't feel secure on a old school 6c with bouldery start. Fell doing a move above it. Did it free on the next go, but was not happy with myself that I had to clip it. My friend and belayer told me to just enjoy it, climb it for myself, and if is so important to repeat it once I feel Ok with it.
@@rampel1 That's definitly a healthy aporoach. But the kind of old school ethics in my area actually say that it is not a redpoint anymore. It is even very controversial to preclip at all ;) But you won't come in the situation to preclip the second bolt anyway when it's out of reach for any avaliable clip stick...
Seems like the old and bold dudes back then had a different sence of safety...
I think first clip is always ok, and second makes sense if the first is super close to the ground. Also if there are more than say 12 clips the difference between first and second seems much less important. But if there are like 6 clips or fewer than getting the second seems kinda goofy.
How about no preclips? ;)
Sometimes it's just too dangerous not to preclip the first bolt or two, I think it depends on the situation
@@karimchahine4883 I agree there are situations when I do it too but the normal case is not to pre-clip anything. Your belayer should know how to spot you (bouldering existed before crash pads) and rarely are the first moves to the first draw hard for the overall grade of the route. I don't know anyone who owns a clip-stick...
@@Setarkos91 yeah I agree with you. I think it just sounded weird in the video because he only mentioned pre-clipping
Wait what? Who doesn't preclip the first two bolts or at least the first one.
@@mokilakilul3775 Not pre-clipping is considered the standard, at least here in Italy, but I believe it's the same in the majority of places
Why is her face so oily? AND WHY IS HER VOICE SO CROAKY
Idiot. Go and have a word with yourself.
Troll alert
Next time people are walking over your bridge, you should crawl out and have a look at them. They’re all different.
Not on mate
WARNING: There is a Troll in your area. Please stay in your house, lock your doors and close your windows