Thanks for the tips, they came in handy. Job went smoothly, and I saved a lot of money. Purring like a kitten now. Good luck to anyone doing this, take your time and its not to bad.
Great vid. Question if you can please answer, 26:30 part of the motor mount with the long screws in the block you said you lowered the engine to pull them out. Can you elaborate? If I lower the engine on one side will it be fine? Did you use the hydraulic jack? This part makes me nervous
Great question and don't be nervous about lowering it while still being attached on the drivers side. Just make sure your jack has smooth control from lock to slow, gradual movement. My old Craftsman never had reliable control with sudden and surprising release, so the Daytona (Harbor Freight) model I'm using in the video has great control. Throughout this job, you will need to raise and lower the timing-side of the engine a few times. Just be conservative and only move it enough to perform your task. Best of luck and I'm glad this is helping you do this yourself!
great job its rare ppl post vids on the flex i have a intermittent problem when accelerating my flex when gunning it on the freeway & hear a rattle which sounds possibly like timing chain. i will use this video as i may need to peak inside to replace. looks like this will take a long time if i work on this here & there Also have oil leak i can see coming from back engine somewhere Also , im experiencing weird a/c issue ; if your ford book shows anything about evaporator temp sensor underneath driver side pls let me know Thanks for your time
That rattle when under acceleration or going up a hill is not your timing chain, it is the PTU (power transfer unit) on the Flex. Usually accompanied by a bad or weird smell - the smell of the fluid boiling over and landing on the exhaust. Known problem, make sure you check fluid level (manual process, no dipstick). Cheers.
The oil leak, there is only two things on the rear of the engine capable of leaking, the rear seal assembly and a very large plug with a O-ring that seals a massive oil galley. If you decide to go after the leak just get the seal assembly and plug.
That's really odd. What year do you have and does it have a twin turbo? One option is to use a slide hammer on the nubs they may have on yours. At the 33:18 mark on this vid, look at the nub just to the right of the hole on the left I use to pry out the cover. Use a claw attachment on a slide hammer and light tap on as many sections you can use. That trick works great on valve covers too.
The later version of the 3.5 doesn’t have those threaded holes. This engine can be identified by plastic valve covers. The later version doesn’t have the steel, removable engine mount bracket.
Great suggestions and tips! Thank you for the visuals also...great job!
I'm stoked the vid helped you out! Enjoy your Flex!
great job alot of insite taking cover off with bolts i would have never guess thank you
Thanks for the tips, they came in handy. Job went smoothly, and I saved a lot of money. Purring like a kitten now. Good luck to anyone doing this, take your time and its not to bad.
Glad the video helped you out Michael! Way to go!
This is very helpful l’am about to do this as well I’am looking for that book you have on eBay it’s a bit pricey though. Thank you for the help.
Yes, those manuals are hard to find and many times the price can be ridiculous. I hope your project goes smooth!
Great vid. Question if you can please answer, 26:30 part of the motor mount with the long screws in the block you said you lowered the engine to pull them out. Can you elaborate? If I lower the engine on one side will it be fine? Did you use the hydraulic jack? This part makes me nervous
Great question and don't be nervous about lowering it while still being attached on the drivers side. Just make sure your jack has smooth control from lock to slow, gradual movement. My old Craftsman never had reliable control with sudden and surprising release, so the Daytona (Harbor Freight) model I'm using in the video has great control. Throughout this job, you will need to raise and lower the timing-side of the engine a few times. Just be conservative and only move it enough to perform your task. Best of luck and I'm glad this is helping you do this yourself!
great job
its rare ppl post vids on the flex
i have a intermittent problem when accelerating my flex when gunning it on the freeway & hear a rattle which sounds possibly like timing chain.
i will use this video as i may need to peak inside to replace. looks like this will take a long time if i work on this here & there
Also have oil leak i can see coming from back engine somewhere
Also , im experiencing weird a/c issue ; if your ford book shows anything about evaporator temp sensor underneath driver side pls let me know
Thanks for your time
Sorry I'm just seeing this. Were you able to tackle those issues?
That rattle when under acceleration or going up a hill is not your timing chain, it is the PTU (power transfer unit) on the Flex. Usually accompanied by a bad or weird smell - the smell of the fluid boiling over and landing on the exhaust. Known problem, make sure you check fluid level (manual process, no dipstick). Cheers.
@@ChanceSummer you assume his vehicle is all wheel drive.
The oil leak, there is only two things on the rear of the engine capable of leaking, the rear seal assembly and a very large plug with a O-ring that seals a massive oil galley. If you decide to go after the leak just get the seal assembly and plug.
my flex is fwd not awd so it does not have ptu but thanks for the comment
I have a 3.5L on my Flex, but it doesn't have the holes to remove the timing chain cover. Does anyone have any suggestions?
That's really odd. What year do you have and does it have a twin turbo? One option is to use a slide hammer on the nubs they may have on yours. At the 33:18 mark on this vid, look at the nub just to the right of the hole on the left I use to pry out the cover. Use a claw attachment on a slide hammer and light tap on as many sections you can use. That trick works great on valve covers too.
Also, I just noticed at 36:10 another pry nub mentioned above is pointed out.
The later version of the 3.5 doesn’t have those threaded holes. This engine can be identified by plastic valve covers. The later version doesn’t have the steel, removable engine mount bracket.
@@harrybalsonya5619 you're exactly right! I found some (what I believe to be) designated pry locations and got it broken free.
@@davidmortensen5709 is it up and running now?