Ground by the left motor mount. The coils have separate right and left fuses but they all Ground to the same hard to get at location. I've back pinned that ground and simply supplied ground then it runs and you can drive it onto a hoist. I usually monitor the ground while cranking with a volt meter. As you said every test light, voltmeter and lab scope has its pros and cons. Good job!
Great advice Keith. A lot of tools out there that say they are the (best/new/only) way to test xxxxx properly. But as you so often point out "Back to Basics" thinking about the circuit you are working on.
Building my load testing arsenal as I'm watching your videos 🤣! Going to be awesome to have various amperage draw load testing tools for this very reason. Thanks for sharing this Keith!
Great video Keith! Thanks for sharing with us! Definitely have to load the circuit with an adequate load for what’s being tested. If you don’t know... we’ll then you’ll find out when you get bit. As I’m sure most of us have.
My favorite word in the English language is "Options". That goes for tools as well. The right tool for the job but I'm still learning what goes where. :)
Stalls when hot, no restart, no spark... I thought to myself "Really? Keith is pulling us out here for a textbook failing crank sensor? Surely not..." Sure enough, not! I'm willing to bet this one would have slowed down quite a few good techs. I vote we change your official job title to "Diagnostician of Oddities." Seriously, how often do you diagnose something "normal?" LOL
Lo he visito..se dañan Los engine mounts ..y se arrancan Las tierras QUE ESTAN atras del motor enseguida del firewall.. GREAT JOB LIKE ALWAYS KEITH...SALUDOS AL ROCKO👍👍
but but but; ScannerDanner says that an ohm tester is not better than a test light. Some sort of load is better than no load. If you know your test light, a bad ground will show very dim, even when cranking like it was shown here.
Keith is not trashing Power Probe specifically, the same could be said about all multimeters. When I watch Eric and Keith, I find they both efficiently jump from static testing to more accurate dynamic methods under load. The tricky issue comes when the ground line leads back to the PCM, in which case high amp testing can mess with internal electronics, and even back-feed high current through unrelated devices that share the ground. Keith's choice here to use a conventional test light for an alternate path to ground is a healthy compromise, limiting current but still showing how the test light offers a lower resistance pathway.
@@spelunkerd I was diagnosing a stranded RV that was a no crank no start. Starter had been replaced and still click and no turning of the starter. I tried hooking some jumpers cables between ground and the battery (but I used the customers cables) I had no access to wiring diagrams on that guy. I decided to hook up the power probe and energize the solenoid directly with the Power Probe. I hook up the tip ground to the starter and got a half turn and then nothing again. I crawled out and saw the 20 amp tip ground fuse was blown. Boom, I knew it was a ground. Got my jumper cables and hooked a ground between starter and chassis and it started. Installed a new ground strap and got them on their way. Interesting how sometimes a diagnostic tool give you the answer unintentionally.
Great video thanks brother. That dang ground again. I can relate with a older Detroit diesel. I had a few that the ground on the block would get really crusty and kill everything. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother. The Power Probe just like every other test equipment has it's place and time.
So the power probe manual states that when checking grounds, that you place it on there, hit the power switch, which loads the circuit, and it trips the circuit breaker on the tool. That is how you check grounds with power probe. Did you try it that way, because thats what the manual says
Keith having a hard time diagnosed in a 2009 Nissan rogue. All four wheels are locking up, Mitchell is sending me to ABS module. Is there a such thing as a VDC module? VDC is coming up on the dash along with abs, brake, traction. What module would cause lock up abs module not VDC? I replaced brake switch I tested it 2v depressed 0v pressed so that was bad. This seems like a separate issue.
it's getting harder and harder to find a good incandescent test light. it's easy to find the lights with the red bulb but I still prefer the flashlight bulb (preferably with a spiral cord).
I think you might of known it had a bad ground if you put the test light to battery -, the test light should light but dim, DVOM could of found it also i think
Yes the power probe will give you false sense of hope and lead you in the wrong direction and I've even seen experience mechanics blow-up modules with that little power probe
Grab a schematic from bbb industries has become a total joke and non-functional for me. What they once did have is no longer. Can select a year, says loading Makes forever with no connection activity what so ever. They never did show ground locations, but I am finally getting what I paid for...
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
You need a loadpro😊 Power probes are a rip off and overated. You can do the more with a Multimeter, a few different test lights and a fused jumper lead.
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
Thanks Keith, you have a great selection of motivational education. Thanks for all the extra time and work you put into these videos 👍👍
This channel is far beyond textbook material
Great tip, exactly how I found a buddy's intermittent no start on his. Same ground same symptom. Nice man.
Ground by the left motor mount. The coils have separate right and left fuses but they all Ground to the same hard to get at location. I've back pinned that ground and simply supplied ground then it runs and you can drive it onto a hoist. I usually monitor the ground while cranking with a volt meter. As you said every test light, voltmeter and lab scope has its pros and cons. Good job!
We are lucky to have a gentleman like you in 21st century sir. Every video u post is a valuable asset to a lot of us out there. Thank you my friend.
Keith another great video. Lots of knowledge. Don't let the ground fool you.
Great advice Keith. A lot of tools out there that say they are the (best/new/only) way to test xxxxx properly. But as you so often point out "Back to Basics" thinking about the circuit you are working on.
I'll bet it takes you longer to get to the shop than to diagnose the car
Building my load testing arsenal as I'm watching your videos 🤣!
Going to be awesome to have various amperage draw load testing tools for this very reason.
Thanks for sharing this Keith!
Thank you Keith. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Keith where's your Load Pro when you need it? xD
Ivan and Eric sent me here :) At the time, they said you didn't have videos yet. Thanks for finally putting up videos, Keith.
Great video Keith! Thanks for sharing with us!
Definitely have to load the circuit with an adequate load for what’s being tested.
If you don’t know... we’ll then you’ll find out when you get bit. As I’m sure most of us have.
My favorite word in the English language is "Options". That goes for tools as well. The right tool for the job but I'm still learning what goes where. :)
Stalls when hot, no restart, no spark... I thought to myself "Really? Keith is pulling us out here for a textbook failing crank sensor? Surely not..." Sure enough, not! I'm willing to bet this one would have slowed down quite a few good techs.
I vote we change your official job title to "Diagnostician of Oddities." Seriously, how often do you diagnose something "normal?" LOL
Grounds! Grounds! Grounds! Hopefully, no one else fired the parts cannon at this vehicle! Good Job!
Lo he visito..se dañan Los engine mounts ..y se arrancan Las tierras QUE ESTAN atras del motor enseguida del firewall.. GREAT JOB LIKE ALWAYS KEITH...SALUDOS AL ROCKO👍👍
I’m always telling my apprentice that a test light isn’t the best test for all powers and grounds.
It’s good for a lot. But not all.
but but but; ScannerDanner says that an ohm tester is not better than a test light. Some sort of load is better than no load. If you know your test light, a bad ground will show very dim, even when cranking like it was shown here.
Hey Dr Defazio!
Would it have started at the end there if you'd attached a jumper to ground?
-100
Yes but you're running a ground through a wire ¼ the size of the ground cable , so only for a quick test
Yep you need to bust Eric o’s chops he’s been using the power probe to check powers and grounds in vids lately.
Hey the power probe the Eric O sent me got me out of a few sticky situations, but a ground isn't a ground until it's a ground under load.
Keith is not trashing Power Probe specifically, the same could be said about all multimeters. When I watch Eric and Keith, I find they both efficiently jump from static testing to more accurate dynamic methods under load. The tricky issue comes when the ground line leads back to the PCM, in which case high amp testing can mess with internal electronics, and even back-feed high current through unrelated devices that share the ground. Keith's choice here to use a conventional test light for an alternate path to ground is a healthy compromise, limiting current but still showing how the test light offers a lower resistance pathway.
@@spelunkerd I was diagnosing a stranded RV that was a no crank no start. Starter had been replaced and still click and no turning of the starter. I tried hooking some jumpers cables between ground and the battery (but I used the customers cables) I had no access to wiring diagrams on that guy. I decided to hook up the power probe and energize the solenoid directly with the Power Probe. I hook up the tip ground to the starter and got a half turn and then nothing again. I crawled out and saw the 20 amp tip ground fuse was blown. Boom, I knew it was a ground. Got my jumper cables and hooked a ground between starter and chassis and it started. Installed a new ground strap and got them on their way. Interesting how sometimes a diagnostic tool give you the answer unintentionally.
I would love it if you could show the fix. Also show us the after fix test to see exactly what is a good result. But still a great quick diag. vid.
Great video thanks brother. That dang ground again. I can relate with a older Detroit diesel. I had a few that the ground on the block would get really crusty and kill everything. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother.
The Power Probe just like every other test equipment has it's place and time.
So the power probe manual states that when checking grounds, that you place it on there, hit the power switch, which loads the circuit, and it trips the circuit breaker on the tool. That is how you check grounds with power probe. Did you try it that way, because thats what the manual says
mike sabin seen sooooo many guys blow out modules using a 12 volt power probe EVERYWHERE. Then they also butcher the wiring.
you make it simple good stuff ,thanks fix ground behind mess .lol body ground on fire wall was crusty.nice work and vid.!!
Nice, that test light is as good as an led light 😆 it has its place, this isn't one of them. Thanks for sharing Keith
I know their is some contraversy about the load pro but it does work I still like my test lite collection tho
2 in 1 day!
How do i fix this issue I changed the Crank sensor but in having this problem any information on fixing it will be helpful thanks
keith you make it look so easy
"4 wires at the coil".. Power, ground, trigger, whats the 4th wire. is that a tattle tale circuit or something like that?
Well done Keith.
Thanks Keith
Was it the ground?
How many cars today Kieth 20 or 25?
17 as of now
17 that other shops couldn't figure out?
Keith having a hard time diagnosed in a 2009 Nissan rogue. All four wheels are locking up, Mitchell is sending me to ABS module. Is there a such thing as a VDC module? VDC is coming up on the dash along with abs, brake, traction. What module would cause lock up abs module not VDC? I replaced brake switch I tested it 2v depressed 0v pressed so that was bad. This seems like a separate issue.
Hey how can I get in contact with you? I have a p0154 on my Acura TL and already changed the o2sesnor still having the same problem. PLEASE HELP
it's getting harder and harder to find a good incandescent test light. it's easy to find the lights with the red bulb but I still prefer the flashlight bulb (preferably with a spiral cord).
Thanks for the video.
3:47 is that a record?
I think you might of known it had a bad ground if you put the test light to battery -, the test light should light but dim, DVOM could of found it also i think
GM trucks - always re-do those engine compartment grounds.
What was the power probe reading?
Zero
i missed something. what was rhe cause of no ground?
Me too. Bad connection or did you replace the wire?
I think he said ground location G102. Acommon prob with GMs
@@burtpilon1735 thanks it sounded like his voice was muffled in his underwear. sorry Keith
No he was loud and clear. You just weren't listening
Haha👍🏻
I’m sorry but I don’t understand why the ground is bad when it gets hot I thought a ground was good or bad at any temperature
Heat expands and created a higher resistance
New Level Auto yes but I guess I never thought about the ground creating resistance thanks
I wish I could diagnose that fast.
Yes the power probe will give you false sense of hope and lead you in the wrong direction and I've even seen experience mechanics blow-up modules with that little power probe
Nice !
What a ground issue??? 🤦♂️,its every where it's an epidemic
poor GM, they got too close to Chrysler and got the green crusty ground cooties lol.....
2:42 ugh sounds like a honda
I'm guessing the load pro would have found if 😂😂
Well we know what heat does to electronics. A ground on a hot part of an engine turns to rust over time.
Back to Basics.
Nice!!!
🕺
Match your test load close to the actual load 👌
👍👍
👍 👍
Grab a schematic from bbb industries has become a total joke and non-functional for me. What they once did have is no longer. Can select a year, says loading Makes forever with no connection activity what so ever. They never did show ground locations, but I am finally getting what I paid for...
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
You need a loadpro😊 Power probes are a rip off and overated. You can do the more with a Multimeter, a few different test lights and a fused jumper lead.
22nd
HAVE YOU NOTICED WHEN IT'S A GROUND IT SEEMS TO ALWAYS BE G1O1 OR IS IT JUST ME ?
Lol
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith
So you’re saying the power probe is not a good tool to check for adequate power and ground?😂😂 The power probe has its place, but not for test like that. Good work Keith