Engine Oil Myths Every Car Guy Needs to Know!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- After years of oil confusion and misinformation, I went straight to the source to ask an oil chemist a few questions to shed some light on this technical and heavily marketed industry. Hope this helps! -L
If you’re a car fanatic like me, click the link below to be notified of my latest AMMO videos, products, podcasts, website promo’s and to take our quick Detailing Survey!
eepurl.com/dOZ6yb
AMMO Formulas used in this video:
www.ammonyc.com/
Recommended products and tools approved by AMMO NYC:
Grit Guard & Washboard amzn.to/34d66m4
Stanley FatMax amzn.to/2Pr0iRM
Rupes Paint Light amzn.to/2JxzGuD
Clay Bar amzn.to/2NmWkXP
Wash Mitt amzn.to/330wYWc
Invisible Glass amzn.to/2PrCNrN
Megs D300 amzn.to/2BUnXSQ
Foam Applicator Pads amzn.to/2MVU7U6
Foam Gun amzn.to/2PEgNub
Wheel Woolies amzn.to/32YhGBx
Tar Remover amzn.to/2pYK6ga
Tire Gel Applicator amzn.to/2MVcf0o
Festool Vacuum amzn.to/31Vv6wN
Milwaukee Packout amzn.to/32VthkE
Milwaukee 1/2 in Impact amzn.to/32X8gWF
Milwaukee Wireless Spkr amzn.to/34bv2KL
Milwaukee LED Light amzn.to/2MUaCjD
Milwaukee M-Spector 360 Console amzn.to/31TDmxm
Milwaukee Fan amzn.to/2peO9VE
Milwaukee Rapid Charge amzn.to/2Wp2UB7
Festool Vacuum Crevice amzn.to/34benXD
Rupes Polisher 21 amzn.to/2NisKCQ
Rupes Polisher 3-in. amzn.to/2Wnl9Hj
Megs Foam Polishing Disc 6" amzn.to/2PqILJD
Megs Foam Cutting Disc 6" amzn.to/2MXPbOT
Rupes Bag amzn.to/2PulLcw
Positector Paint Depth Gauge amzn.to/2JwqOpf
Mercury Spray Bottle amzn.to/2PrFRnN
Masterblaster amzn.to/2C4Rt8F
CR Spotless Water Filter amzn.to/31Y7DuW
Megs MF finish 3" amzn.to/2N04Ugp
Megs MF finish 5" amzn.to/2Pulq9L
Megs MF finish 6" amzn.to/2q1TO19
Megs MF cutting 3" amzn.to/2BTDSAY
Megs MF cutting 5" amzn.to/2Nju1tk
Megs MF cutting 6" amzn.to/2q1TX4H
Black Wow amzn.to/2PtG4XH
Megs M205 amzn.to/2JwrNpr
Megs M105 amzn.to/2Ps31dS
RoboReel amzn.to/2Pud6qP
Steam Machine VX5000 amzn.to/368WBGm
Elcometer Paint Depth amzn.to/2NkP52A
Scangrip I-view amzn.to/2BWIN3K
Scangrip D-Match 2 amzn.to/2q1VU1b
Gorilla Gloves amzn.to/36k2ZLg
Long-handled Window Scrubber amzn.to/2JyxZgJ
Loew-Cornell Fine line painting pen amzn.to/2JMhPAz
Fight Tech Dust Mask amzn.to/34bPZVR
Carpet Brushes amzn.to/2qQiWIx
Subscribe to AMMO NYC for clean cars: ruclips.net/user/subscription_c...
Facebook: / ammonyc
Instagram: / ammonyc
For more product info: www.ammonyc.com/
AMMO NYC Channel Home Page: / ammonycdotcom
If this video was helpful, please give us a THUMBS UP!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, and Make Rain Productions, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, and Make Rain Productions assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, and Make Rain Productions recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, and Make Rain Productions, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not AMMO NYC, Larry Kosilla, nor Make Rain Productions. Video and Content are owned by Make Rain Productions © 2021 
Авто/Мото
My oil is self changing. It has this great feature called a leak and all I have to do is put 1l in every week.
Lawrence Timme rear main seal? If so, I know the pain 🛢️💲
Save more money and don’t change it.
my daily has been going since 2013 with 1 oil change.
When it blows up, I’ll yank my plates off and leave the title in the glovebox and call the scrapyard to come get it.
not sure that is brag worthy.
Lawrence Timme 😂 hahah the niggas😂👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
so you have a british car, then?
If video games have taught me anything, it's that red barrels are the exploding kind
Andrew Malkin Oh jeez yeah!
Andrew Malkin I played 007 golden eye and EVERY barrel was the exploding kind!
Haha! Awesome reply.
TNT lol
LMAO good one...
What I learned in this video: how to pronounce Total
lol
Total is a french company. That's how they pronounce it
Man from Nantucket ITS TOTAL NOT TOTAL DUDE 🤔
Oh I didnt catch that. How's it pronounced?
@@spiralnapkin to-TAL
I love how careful was the engineer at answering the question since the question itself can lead to a misleading result if answered lightly.
Every journalist should organise an interview like this: "Hey can I stick a camera in your face and ask a bunch of questions?"
Only if you agree to wear one of our "Total" shirts.
Journalists are not allowed to think these days. At best, they are told by so called news directors "get me a story on ___". At worst, they are just supposed to fluff a pre-written script [or talking points] with on site babbling or just get footage for a preset narrative waiting to be aired. I love independant enthusiastic exploration like this vid - the guy was invested in finding out how to do the right thing for his car [not setting out to do a corporate hit piece], and sharing the results as found. The business of zinc additives can be a grey area to anybody who owns an 89 to 95 model car that had its engine developed during the early years of EPA mandated reduction of zinc. For even older cars with flat tappet lifters, zinc is not optional. What's cheaper: a new cat, or an engine rebuild? Do what you think is best, but I put zinc in my 95: the [overhead cam] valvetrain runs quieter for it, and I consume less than 250ml [8 ounces] between 5k mile oil changes on an engine with 195k miles on it. I replaced my cat at about 125k miles, which seems ok to me on balance. The motor hp is like new, which makes my original purchase price break down to $2/day for ownership [maintenence excluded], and under $3/day after maintenance is thrown in.
By the way... Total is a French company, so it has a little more development experience/history with european motors under its belt.
Yep. And give evasive, bullshit answers. I still cannot get ANY oil company to admit if it uses grade IV base oils (PAO or ester). These "fully synthetic" oils are just dino oil with extra additives.
I'm not an "expert" on oil by any means but this video told me absolutely nothing I didn't already know.
@Gaunter O'Dimm Exactly. If you use the weight oil recommended for your car, and use an SN oil, today's standard, you will be just fine. You can choose any brand you feel comfortable with, and if it's the correct weight and meets SN standards you are good to go.
James Crabb so you learned nothing. It hast to be approved. For example fords EcoBoost motors run with a lubricated timing belt. But well normally timing belts kind of “melt” in oil, so it is a very special oil you have to put in to prevent a disintegration of this belt. I’ve put some bmw branded oil into my car and well.. after 30.000 miles (new Ford Focus) the belt snapped and was only goo.. didn’t end well)
@@avinci3116 BS x 2= more BS
Nonsense !!
Yeah, I knew all this stuff already too.
Man you explained it in a way that I'll never forget it FOR LIFE. Don't worry about the word thickness vs viscosity we definitely understood. The honey or syrup analogy nailed it! Great explanation and great video. And thanks to the guys at Total.
1:10 Holy cow, spin on a new filter while dirty oil is still pouring out of the filter block! Didn't even wipe it out (yes, I understand the risk of introducing lint into the oil system - that's why a lint-free cloth should be used for this). That's straight-up bush league rookie crap.
IT AINT NOTHING TO JESUS
Chris Leone what?
and at least soak the new filter with oil to offset the initial dry start. So glad i own a mityvac
@@McCarthyism_by_RUclips dry starting is literally the biggest myth of all time.... you NEVER get all oil from the engine on an oil change usually if you have a 7qt engine with 7qt in it when you change the oil youll only get 5-6qts out. Theres a try of sorts the cam sits in that holds oil. Dry. Start. Is. A. Myth.
@@ryancollins3227 i both agree and disagree because my car holds 6.5 liters and every oil change my mityvac 7201 pulls out 6.5+ liters due to routine overfilling by .5 liters as a precaution. My bmw has a top mounted cartridge oil filter that also needs to be filled first 1 liter before closing. Not doing that starting up with a bone dry oil filter makes for a loud unhappy v8. It takes less than 10 seconds for the main and scavenging pumps to saturate the filter before the horrible sound of disgruntled metal disappears. I use group V based oil because esters have a electrochemical attraction to metal clinging to it long after PAO oils have gravitated to the oil pan. I'm using Redline 5w50 now and will try another group V, Motul Sport 5w50 in 2 months. In summary, yes one can only hope to extract 85% of the oil during a change but to say dry starts are a myth is plain anecdotal posturing, as there are still people using conventional oil. You've never heard castrol's claim that 75% of wear occurs on cold starts? What's the difference between a cold and dry start?
Your access to this facility was fantastic. Add the flawless editing, to the point questions and the story, it was a video well worth multiple "thumbs up". Very well done.
Yeah, but how much profit can there be in making a specific blend of oil for classic Porsche owners who track their car?
I'm not even really into cars at all , but It's easy to see that you have put a great deal of time and effort into helping educate people about what youre into. The video editing is amazing and your overall delivery is straight pro . So props on doing you keep it going!
I appreciate your attempt at transparency and, quite frankly, I think that it's good you encourage owner research.
super informative video. thanks for sharing with us Larry! i've been a motor head for a long time, but getting the insider's perspective on how oil is manufactured and the differences between the oils is great! appreciate your high quality content as always. thank you!
Great video! Thoroughly enjoyed it. I learned some concrete principles from it and will apply gained knowledge to ALL of my vehicles.
Larry the production and educational content is awesome and you make a great host! 👍🏽
Probably THE best car car video I have ever watched. Extremely informative and an eye opener. I best check my oil in my VW. She's an old girl now and I want to keep her running.
I like the question about additives. If there weren't additives to the oil, it would burn up and burn off so fast you couldn't keep up to it. Castrol GTX back in the day was one of the best oils where it resisted burning off, which means your oil consumption was far less and over the life of the car, you spent less money on top ups between oil changes. Of course now I use a better oil, but I'm still a fan of Castrol.
Brilliant idea for an episode Larry. Well done as always.
Hi Larry: just wanted to compliment you on this particular video. I have watched all of your videos. Some of them multiple times. I am impressed with this one because of how all components fit together: images, voice over, background music, montage. Really impressive. Keep up the good work!
I just get longer dipsticks ! Oil level remains constant !
@Copter Cop that is what ford did with the 2017 -2020 f150 5.0
Thanks for what the numbers and letter stands for. I don't drive a race car but it anything that helps me keep my daily driver on the road longer helps.
Thank you for making this video, it's informative and educational. This cleared up a lot of questions concerning choices of what weight and how semi synthetic affect a vehicle.
I was able to take a tour of the Amalie factory and interview their chemist, but they were a little less camera-friendly. The Total facility shown here looked very similar, though!
I couldn't get a camera in a meth lab this one time. Much less an interview with the chemist. Rules...
Great Information, Great Examples, Great Insights!
Very Well Detailed! Great Job! 😎
Best video I've seen on explaining oil viscosity was made by engineering explained. Very in-depth and quite "dry" content so not for people that are just slightly interested but if you have a strong interest in how oil weights and oil types affect your car I highly recommend it solid science across the board. I will go on to say this video here is great
Great info! Thanks! ... also, I love your videos. Very informative and interesting
Glad to see you back Larry.
Great information and so well produced, Larry! Seriously good stuff!
I have an AAS in automotive technology was a A union tech for Chrysler and a fixed operations director for Chrysler and Ford , and my father in law was a chemical engineer for Hess refinery and my father worked 40 years for Sunoco refinery . Long story short , use Sunoco gasoline and Mobil 1 full synthetic oil , they are the best out there . No more explanation needed , end of story . Take this excellent advice or don't , but you'll be glad you did if you do ! Sunoco gas and Mobil 1 full synthetic oil ! 100 % !
In most places it's the same damn suppliers for every station with whatever crap the station adds to the tank. It's really almost all the same gas.
Additives in the oil from manufacture are different than additives bought off the shelf and added into an oil. So I believe you're picking on two different subjects really. Most questions online asking about additives are referring to store bought, additional additives. Higher zinc content is recommended for all higher revving engines, whether boosted, N/A, water cooled or air cooled. As stated, too much zinc is bad in catted vehicles. No mention of ash content, which equates to sludge. No mentions of benefits of choosing a full syn over a semi or conventional. Overall, this video doesn't do a whole lot for car guys.
amorton94
Mobil had a huge mess back in the 80s I believe when they introduced synthetics in aircraft.
They got it worked out but they paid for a lot of engines!
Ummm okay?
Sadly that's true.
Did you even watch the video? Yes it does clear up some basic things for car guys. In short, use what the manufacturer recommends and do it routinely. If your engine requires synthetic, don't use non-syn. If you use non-synthetic, there's no real advantage to full syn for daily driving. Racing etc are different.
bottom line, use what the manufacturer recommends.
eiji81 Lmao. No advantage to full syn for daily driving. Lets just pretend it's not superior oil that gives superior protection for longer intervals. Apparently we have different definitions of "car guy", cuz the info in this vid might news to some kid, but not any actual enthusiasts. Try to be the tough internet warrior you wish you were, but you just look stupid.
if everyone read the owners manual their shit wouldn't break near as much!
@Random GearHead
yep i'm from a 3rd/2nd world country and all the German cars work just fine ,everyone read the owners manual
but in the west they have reliability problems
Then again, VW wanted their customers to change oil every 30kkm on a 1.4l twin-charged engine. That's not reasonable at all. But you know, just like that Total dude said, that's what the factory intended and they intended these engines to brake just outside of warranty (or sooner in most cases).
Agreed. People would then know the bares bones basics required for successful automotive ownership.
This is literally the only reason why I would ever want to buy a brand new car, just so I could know for an absolute fact that in no time during this cars life has it been maintained improperly. I swear every used car I get I find something the previous owner stupidly neglected.
Name ONE case where a VW engine broke down before 150 000 miles because of insufficient lubrication due to wrongly calculated service intervals. Name just ONE case where the engine went to hell because of poor lubrication due to aged oil.
For the latest oil specifications, go to your vehicle manufacturer's website once per year in order to check for an updated list of approved spec oils. You might be able to now choose a 5w-20 full synthetic when the owner's manual calls for 5w30. The thinner the oil that you are permitted to use, will result in much better fuel economy. Many times the season will be calculated in figuring out which spec oil to use.
On many vehicles, the 20w50 summer time spec dino oil, can now be replaced with with 5w50 or 10w60 full synthetic winter time, this gets better cold weather startup, and extended high speed driving protection when fully warmed up.
Define much better if your adding more oil as it pisses out the tailpipe because it's thinner.
Very informational I enjoyed the video my concern is semisynthetic oils in the video they talked about it could be 50% could be onepercent. Knowing that I would always stay away from semi synthetic and I would put only full synthetic oils in my car and motorcycle.
Holly crap! 0:18 mins,
You know you've made it when Brad Pitt is changing your oil!
LOL, that's hilarious
No shit. Wow
how i didn't catch that i don't know. lol
BWAAHAHAHHAHA
Holy crap. Tyler Durden changes his own oil!!
As per the title, what actual myths did you dispel?
Tony ORourke Beto is a communist.
Nothing.
That (W) stands for weight
Racing oil can be a gimmick, but my old smog engine with it's flat tappet cam needs that zinc and phosphorus that can be found in best quantities in racing oil. However, I usually just end up adding a containter of Rislone 3x concentrate to regular oil, and when I sent it for testing it spec'd out good. Oil has changed over the years and it is best to know what is good for your own specific application.
C- Al-Sabri Stands for Winter, not weight.
Summary of the video: use what the manual says, change it when the manual says to, there was literally nothing else in this video.
Exactly. Car makers and oil chemists do know a thing or two about engines and oils. There is much more to it than SAE viscosity rating.
Foreal 😂😂
And by design to make money. Test your oil after 3000 miles. It is not even close to being broke down. The oils today hardly break down. Changing oil every 3000 miles is a waste of money.
Always use mobile one extended milage oil. It's good for at least 15,000 miles.
thanks for saving my 15 minutes
@@Ecoscienceczar That's a lot, though... I would never exceed 10.000 mi in any car, even with full synthetic. And honestly, if anything, it's even better for your engine to change it slightly sooner. You won't harm it. I wouldn't change it every 3.000 mi either, though (except if it's a very old engine / barely runs / is very worn and you'd like to use it for a couple more years).
Loved the video very educational, one thing I would have loved the chemist to go in more detail or asked him was the Group type of synthetic oils like Group III, IV, V and the whole “Full synthetic” or real true synthetic oil
1:03 that Porsche really caught my eye like oil really comes from there but not on my 96
I switched to a Turbo Diesel oil for my gas car, notice how quickly they switched subjects when ZDDP was brought up. I have a flat tappet performance cams and it needs all the zinc/phosphorus protection it can get. Oil companies removed most of it which increases engine wear to save the life of the converter. Even If I still had a catalyst on my car I would take catalyst wear over engine wear any day.
Very weak responses from Alex. You'd think he be more jovial about his passion for being a chemist. Seemed like he was more annoyed about getting home or perhaps tight lipped for signing a NDA. We didn't need a guided tour or ask a chemist to just be told to read our owners manual. I was expecting him to talk about engine temps and viscosity and plethora of other reasons why you would choose a different grade. Which is the most important question here and where oil breaks down. But he took the least sophisticated route on explaining that. Here's a free sucker and a coloring book. Thanks chap
Aero Tman amen dude. i add ZDDP to my oil, fuck my converters. my engines all run smooth as the day they were made.
Aero Tman; You are so right. An old mechanic told me to run Shell Rotella 15W-40 T4, was T3 at the time in my 26 year old Honda Helix 250cc engine that does not even have a oil filter but a screen. It is still the quietest engine I have ever heard and I change the oil every 2,000 miles. Use it for the zinc/phosphorus. Works for me.
tlumacz tekst
Firstly the converter is a transmission part has nothing to do with engine oil. Next yest a flat tappet cam needs zonc but whats mkre important is film strength. Zinc means nothing if metal to metal contact displaces it. Thirdly rotella has had its additive package gutted a few years ago now. Your best option is an oil design for older engines such as lucus hot rod oil or amsoil z rod.
longstar550 Catalytic Converter not torque converter
Bravo! You answered a lot of questions I had. You did It in a very understandable way. Thank you.
i am actually surprised, I was expecting an older individual to do all the explanation on behave of the oil factory and we got a very young and knowledgeable one. glad to see the young people take charge! . congrats smart guy!
Aside from high performance cars as long as the oil meets api, ilsac and passes the PQIA requirements , cheap or expensive it doesn't matter I used walmart oil in a car I had with over 200k miles and never had a problem
donovan stagg SUPERTECH FTW😂🤣
Exactly. All this worry over oil and oil filters. NOT important. Just change often and do not crash your car. The nut behind the wheel is the big limitation, not the oil.
@@michaelprice3785 Yeah right why dont i just fill it with veggie oil then
@@jordancritser7479 Stupid comment.
@@michaelprice3785 thanks thats what I was aiming for.
It depends what kind of driving you do. I commute in traffic jams for most of my driving so I'm changing my full synthetic oil every 4 to 5 thousand miles. If I ran conventional then id shoot for somewhere closer to 3 thousand miles. I could probably go a bit longer either way but I like to keep mine changed on the earlier side. I think 7500 miles is questionable even with synthetic when you drive in grindy bumper to bumper traffic all the time like us California city slickers do. If I drove mostly mostly highway and steady speeds I would change conventional at 5 thousand and synthetic at 7500. Always check levels every so often for topping up especially if you don't know your engine yet.
I live in nyc and change my synthetic oil in my car every 2-3k because NYC traffic does severe wear on the oil. I usually drive 2-3k miles every 4-6 months.
You may think its questionable, however multiple fleet studies have shown that 7500 miles is not a problem, especially for synthetics. Marketing has done its job, and now people actually believe commuting is somehow a hardship case. First I heard of it was when I moved to NorCal from NY State, and didn't think it make sense. I usually was and still do OC at 5K, or longer if I'm running synthetic, and never had any problems. I usually end up having to add some at 3K for my Q45 because they were built to burn a little more oil as they built the engine for power, and its a little loose tolerance wise. But feel free to go every 3K if it makes you feel better. They'll take your money.
@@tonychambers9228 Yo, Tony -- New York City traffic is no harder on your engine than traffic in Detroit, Phoenix, Se0attle, Houston, or Los Angeles. It only SEEMS that NYC is worse. ;>)
However, there are steps you can take to ensure that your engine lasts it's longest life possible, while giving maximum performance AND economy:
1. - Install a NEW PCV Valve -- DO NOT clean the old one -- throw it away.
2. - Install a NEW AIR FILTER -- FRAM's "Tough Guard" Air Filter has the latest technology, can trap and hold more dirt.
The BOSCH Premium oil filter has a 20-Micron rating. VERY FEW oil filters can meet that standard. Reasonable price, and is available almost everywhere.
3. - Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic is refined from Natural Gas, and contains only 5% of petroleum oil -- When using the manufacturer-recommended oil viscosity, your engine will probably run smoother and quieter than with any oil (of the same viscosity) that you used in the past.
4. Get a DIGITAL Tire Guage ( JACO # X0025NLFVT -- Amazon.com) and USE IT !!
Set your tire pressures at the Manufacturer's recommendations.
5. - Considering your circumstances, and following the suggestions above, you could do a "ONCE-A-YEAR" Oil & Filter change without any risk of harm to your engine.
P.S. -- PLEASE don't ruin your engine by purchasing "Whatever's on sale."
If you can afford to own a car in NYC, you can afford to choose and buy top-quality parts and lubricants for your engine.
Good Luck !!
Great video! Many people simply don't know enough about oil. One thing that I'd like to add about the "meets or exceeds manufacturers' specifications" issue: Sadly, some of the oil brands that don't specifically state that they meet certain specifications... actually do meet them, but in order to keep costs down they refuse to pay the manufacturers to certify their products. They gamble on customers simply buying their products. On the other hand, some oil manufacturers do not meet the standards for certification, while still claiming that they do. They know that by the time a customer notices the damage to their engine, most customers won't even consider the oil as a contributing factor, because they'll simply know that they've been diligently changing it. So, it definitely pays to do your homework.
What oil has ever claimed to meet a spec but has not actually met that spec?
@@AEVMU
I'm not going to open myself up to any possible libel lawsuits, so suffice to say that my best advice to you is: should you find yourself in a position, wherein you're on vacation... driving your car in a foreign country... and you need to top up your oil... DO NOT try to save money by purchasing a cheaper, unfamiliar brand. Stick with what you know; and keep the receipts. You'd be surprised at how many unscrupulous people are out there, willing to make a fast buck off of unsuspecting victims.
Bravo for publishing your non dramatic findings. It shows respect for the truth and the ability to forego the chance to snag more subscribers by throwing in a bunch of intriguing half-truths and conjecture. Subscribed!
High quality engine oil doesn't come from the ground its engineered in a laboratory often from natural gas. The drain interval in the owners manual is for conventional oil (unless its factory filled with synthetic).
smile.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550040849-Platinum-Racing-Synthetic/dp/B00JMCCM94/ref=sr_1_16?srs=2598345011&ie=UTF8&qid=1531808701&sr=8-16
natural gas comes from the ground
@@chrisk119 : Or politicians...
Wow, finally someone who knows what synthetic oil really is. Motul and others still make real synthetic oil. thank you boodleman.
cant believe you just said that, natural gas is basically just that, liquid turned into vapor, it may be used to make synthetic in some sort of heat process but in no way a lubricating application
oil change intervals are designed to support major oil cos, the most important part of a change schedule is the filter, most of the filters are very small anymore so they should be changed more often,if you change the filter more often you can run the oil longer as the only thing that goes wrong with oil it gets dirty, clean it and you can continue to use it
Joe Scheller how do you clean it? By changing the filter alone?
exactly and add new to the full mark, change fully maybe once every other regular oil change depending how much driving idle time andwhat conditions you drive in dirt roads are terrible so changing more is necesary@@videosurfah
@@joescheller6680 Its not dirt its carbon blow by ,when running oil to long the protection package drops out leaving crappy base oil ( no protection ) we spend 30 to 90k on our vehicles don't cheap out CHANGE THE OIL ! I change mine ( full syn. ) every 5k . I have a small Euro shop about 1300 customers they all come in at 5 k miles. the best part NO oil leaks the seals love it , that alone justifies early chang out , do the math.
I sometimes pick up freight from that location. Great video, thanks
I really enjoyed this video. Very informative and well put together. Had a professional feel to it. Thanks.
Your Porsche looks great! How do you get it SO shiny?
(Kidding, I'm, kidding!)
He takes it regularly to a local hand car wash that uses the same Mitt & shampoo on hundreds of cars.
I use 0-40 even though my manual said use 10-40. I live in the dolomites where it can be -15 to 30 plus Celsius
Ever try WD-40? Winter Diesel 40w
Beh -15 non è tutta sta cosa :) 5w40 va bene
Larry, thanks for making this! Very timely video for me, my engine just blew some seals after using an oil that was highly recommended by other people driving the same type of car. Boat loads of sludge found inside, even though this was suppose to be amazing oil..
Care to mention the oil name? I want to avoid it.
Sure, I'm not trying to throw shade on anyone, but it was my experience using "CERMA Evo Synthetic Motor Oil". And yes, before anyone says anything, I completed all the prerequisite CERMA engine treatments prior.
@@Beatboxer96gt not the purple color oil, is it?
Great info Larry, as usual. Cheers!
I've been doing all my own car maintenance for over 20 years. I have 3 vehicles, two with over 200K miles and one with over 300K miles. None have needed any major engine repairs. I follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual for each vehicle. I use a great car maintenance program on my laptop www.automotivewolf.com configured to track and manage all the maintenance. It also monitors fuel economy performance, expenses, parts and does a cost analysis to show how much each vehicle costs you to own it. I also only use OEM oil and filters as recommended from the manufacturer. Toyota has specialized oil for many of their vehicles. So far it seems to be working just fine :)
Does Toyota really make their own oil? Or are they buying it from a refinery and slapping their label on it like every other car dealer?
I beleive mobile one makes toyota synthetic oil the non synthetic was casterol and may still be.
Toyota is a tank even with minimal maintenance.
Your way to understand oil viscosity aka thickness might be rudimentary to some but it made perfect sense to me. Especially the maple syrup part. It also made me want pancakes. Doh!
Great and informative as always !
Very informative video. Presentation was spot on and info was easy to understand.Big thumbs up.
10:20 I'm confused #1 and #3 totally contridict each other. #1 Oil thickens when hot. #3 Oil thins when hot. Which is it??
*+Matt's Shop* You've just misunderstood. Oil always THINS when hot. In #1, he's not saying the opposite of that - he's saying that oils with higher numbers stay thicker (have a higher viscosity) at warmer temperatures than oils with lower numbers. So, for example, if you put a 20W-50 oil and a 5W-30 oil side-by-side in bowls and raised the room temperature from 0-212˚F and then lowered it again, both oils will get thinner as they heat up and thicker as they cool down, but the 20W-50 oil will remain thicker than the 5W-30 every step of the way because it has a higher viscosity. If you did that with a 10W-30 and 5W-30, the 10W-30 would be thicker than the 5W-30 at lower temperatures (10 being the higher cool temp number), but they would both be the same thickness - or thinness, however you want to look at it - when they reached 212˚F (30 being the same high temp number).
Close.With multi-viscosity oils, a "W" after the number stands for "Winter" grade oil. The numeric value of the first number (example 5W-20) is a measure of the pour point of the oil expressed in degrees Celsius whent he oil is cold. The rating is determined in a lab using a cold crank simulator and mini-rotary viscometer test. The oil weight is its viscosity index at 100 degrees C (the boiling point of water).
What this means is 5w20 for example will stop pouring a 5c and has a viscosity of 20 at 100c.
Thats just dead wrong William, i run 5w-40 in my car and the oil flows very fine at 5c. The first number is the oils viscosity measured at 0 c and the 2nd number is the viscosity measured at 100c (operating temperature).
The benefit of multigrade oil is that you dont have to run 2 viscosities depending on what season it is, like we had to here in norway back in the days. During winters we sometimes see -30c and summers are normally between 20-30c, having 1 multigrade oil allows us to run 1 type of oil all year.
Moriquendiii This makes sense.
Moriquendiii multi weight oils REDUCE the need for running different oils, they do not eliminate it. Every engine I have from my push mower to by semi has multiple oil weights listed depending on temperature. Pickup recommends 15w-40 for anything above 0°F, but cold of -30°F it recommends switching to 0w-30
all about that Ｔ Ｈ Ｉ Ｃ Ｃ Ｎ Ｅ Ｓ Ｓ
I'll show myself out
i like em thicc
THICKNESS
LMAO I am 2 years too late
😂
thank you for answering all my questions with this video
What a great video, Very informative. Thank you!
No one fighting over the w meaning weight or winter?
W stands for winter no if and or buts.
Have you done an oil analysis as proof that your oil really works? If their oil is true synthetic oil why it's not labeled 100% synthetic oil. From machinery lubrication website "While most engine oils are made to acceptable standards, their general and specific qualities can vary widely. Poor-quality engine oils are often put on the market due to ignorance or greed. Unfortunately, for the uninformed automobile owner, a high-quality engine oil and one of poor quality will look and feel the same."
The branding "Synthetic" is not a regulated formula, there are no actual API, or SAE requirements to be met in order to become "Synthetic". True Synthetic, Full Synthetic, Synthetic, all have the same meaning. It could be a POA formula but, more commonly, synthetic is a Grade III oil. Both use additives to meet or exceed specific manufacturer requirements. An extra refined, hydrocracked or Isocracked, Grade III oil is just as effective and even more so in many cases as a "truly synthetic" (POA) based oil. With the latest refining technology from (leading oil refiner's name omitted), Isocracked oil can exceed many "true" synthetics in a Grade II or Grade II+ base oil. The hype on the bottle means nothing.
When it comes to oil, price usually does dictate quality and performance, the additives and extra refining are really expensive! In most cases, North American passenger cars will only require an SN grade, in which case there's no real benefit to synthetics. With European and some Japanese cars, turbo and diesel engines, there are usually very specific requirements, as mentioned in the video, MB 229.5 VW 505 etc.
Thats why i use Amsoil. UOA have been very good😎
Oz Media , nothing outperforms true 100% synthetic Motor oil. I have tested in my own vehicles. Group 2 and 3 is just not good enough. Engine remanufacturing shops making billion dollars, because people use group 2 and 3. If group 2 and 3 were good, majority people would never have engine problems.
Actually, in Germany and Japan, only engine oils with base stocks that are comprised of at least 80% Group 4 or 5 oils may be labeled as "fully synthetic". It was Exxon Mobil that went to court over said issue back in the day.
Having said that (and having spent some years in a refinery), there are great group 3 HC (hydrocracked) base stocks out there that are on par with almost any given PAO blend. It all depends on the process. And in the end, the additive package is even more important than the chemist in the video made it out to be. Total is a good brand for high quality oils - the Mazda "original" oils are being produced by them 😁
And: oil change importance cannot be understated. Manufacturers don't want their stuff to last but since I want my engines to last, I have decided for myself to cut each drain interval in half and use manufacturer-approved oil. The requirements for approvals are really tough but engine oils can't perform miracles. Nothing is as good for an engine as fresh oil - besides proper treatment by the driver.
Oz Media
Exactly. Perhaps you should have written the script for this verbose and very basic video. Also I would add that clear physical evidence to show that lower viscosity oil will produce more wear than higher viscosity oil in passenger cars with conventional use is lacking given identical antiwear additive packages. Wow, that was a run-on sentence! I've heard owners say things like, "my car is getting old so I'm going to start using thicker oil to reduce wear." That's simply wrong.
The "additive question" is usually about separately bottled products sold to be added to the oil that already has the proper additives in it. I never ever add stuff to my oil unless I have an oil burner and am trying to fix it on the cheap and get a bit more life out of it.
A great video. I learned new important things every time I watch your videos. Keep it up
This is a very long ad; anyway who uses Total engine oil?
nobody i know
I do. Quartz 9000 10W-30 in my 4.0l Wrangler.
I think as long as you use the proper oil and change frequently brand doesn’t matter. My preference is pennzoil ultra platinum but I bet super tech oil would be fine for your engine. Engine Oil has to meet certain requirements
Agreed. Follow the manufacturer guidelines. There is more to oil than SAE grade.
Project Farm is currently closing in on the finals for his Oil Championship where he compares many different brands of oils.
@@paulanderson79 you day agreed. But the op & what you say is contradicting
@@mikeprice8307 The OP mentions nothing at all about oil specs apart from brand doens't matter. Pennzoil Platinum is just one buch of branded oils. It's not that simple, nor that difficult. Especially not if you don't reside in Retardistan.
@@paulanderson79 you are very correct, neither did he mention. Manufacturer guidelines.
Excellent video thanks so much 😆👍
I still come back to this video from time to time. Do more stuff like this if you can @larry!
Video is way better than How It's Made
This!
What? He went to an oil maker and found out they blend oil. WOW! Read your manual.
KyleSVT Yeah, basically anything is. The guy that narrates How It's Made is extremely dry and ludicrously boring. This guy and Jason Fenske of Engineering Explained are two of the best when it comes to science-y explanation videos.
How It's Made: Come for the knowledge, stay for the dad puns
VISCOSITY means resistance to flow
Very good video. Informative, clear speaking, you dont need more.
He uses 10W-30 in his hair.
I use 40 weight to pull a fast one with sr20s on race day.
Na. It's 40 weight!
Good comment, Mr. Proper.
I use 10w60 so jokes on u
@@frontspring1 How good is the lubrication? I'd like to try it sometime
The ONLY true synthetic By Total I know of, is the 0w-30 a3/b4 euro oil and is the only synthetic sold here.I e. PAO bro Is and Grp V esters. Most shit is not grp 4 or 5 and I applaud Total for telling the truth.
excellent video.👍 i use to host work shops @ my mom & pop performance shop on the importance of quality oil & understanding all that was covered in this video. forever greatful to my neighbors Torco Oil for thier insight all these years. debating which oil brands are "best" within a racing community is comical. I've discovered its mostly hereditary much like your dads aftershave or deodorant preference. statistically society will stick/vouch with what thier family believes is best. 😆 Another great feature one should look into is seeing if your performance oil producer can test a sample of your motor oil after a cycle. studying the used oil can reveal a ton of info & teach you a thing or to about your driving habits.... 👍
Let me add my 2 cents from actual experience with Supertech. I had a 2004 Chevy 3500 Duramax that I hauled campers with. I drove in every type of environment from high heat in desert to blizzards in Wyoming, drove in mountains to flats, straight roads to curvy roads. So to save money I decided to use Supertech oil. I didn't think much of it but I noticed my truck using oil and thought it was normal considering how much towing I was doing. Some guys I work with were talking one day about motor oils and how pretty much every single one of them used Rotella. So I decided the next time I got my oil change I would give it a try. To my surprise my truck not only stopped using oil, but my fuel mileage went up also and all I did was switch from Supertech to Rotella. So yes I would have to say there is a difference between quality oil and Supertech.
Yep, moral of the story: RTFM!
(8)You can't trust the system(8)!!! Man!!!
but thats written by a engineer my mechanic dude know much better.
Well the reality is that the Owners Manual isn't ALWAYS the best thing to do! Especially with older cars as new tech comes out. My 94 Integra recommends 5w or 10w30 oil depending on climate. I use 0w30 full synthetic to help reduce engine wear at cold startup, and I'd like to think that is partly why the engine still runs great at 362,000 miles. Back in 1994 there was no such thing as 0w30 oil.
Since most engine wear occurs during cold starting, you want the thinnest oil possible when cold. 0w is still thicker than what's needed at operating temperature, so any engine that requires 5w or 10w30 can use 0w30, and any engine that requires 5w20 can use 0w20.
Patrick94GSR so with the information you just gave would it be better to change my jeeps oil to ow30?
I use 10w40 dc2
They have had straight 30 weight oil sense the 60's. Oil pump design and clearance aswell as oil galley design just gooping in heavier weight thinking it means more protection it doesnt film strenth gives you that. Whatbyou have done is slowed ur drain back likely raised ur oil temp.
You got it backwards , you are causing more wear , the 5w is what the oil thickness is when started cold , it's thinner to flow better . Your using a thicker oil on start up , harder to flow and harder on the oil pump as well . You are causing more wear by doing this
That VTEC 4 cylinder engine you have can probably tolerate the thinner synthetic oil that you use because it revs higher than most cars but it is not good advice to tell others to use a thinner oil at startup than what is recommended. The best advice is to warm up your car to prolong engine life and I am sure you already do this.
Great video! I always thought the “w” stood for weight. I didn’t realize it’s actually for winter
The Vicosity use to be called "weight" when it was in single grades, why they changed it to "winter" when multi-grades came out on the market I do not know, maybe they thought it would be less confussing to the motoring public.
That lab guy really knows his stuff... amazing!
I'm actually using for at least 17yrs total oil, the last few years quartz7000 10w40. In a non-reliable engine(x16xel) on LPG. Few months ago, coz i'm a idiot, we removed the head to resurface it and change the gasket(I ran out of coolant, but didn't noticed it for a few km, coz my bulbs behind the gauges are dead for a few month now, and it was around midnight).
The cylinders don't have any edge, or any signs for the mileage the car actually has(315,000km). And i repeat, it's a really known unreliable engine. Like massively unreliable engine. People can't believe it has made that much kilometers. And I change my oil every 10,000km.
Edit: I drive the car like it's stolen. All the time.
Master Skywalker because it's lpg ya dingus. Much cleaner in the combustion chamber than gas and especially deisal
No name-calling, but it's Diesel.
is because you are burning lpg the cleanest burning fuel out there and natural gas would be almost equivelant. burning lpg your oil hardly ever gets dirty always appears to be clean like right out of the can
1:11 am wtf I'm doing here besides learning something
You could also use a 20w50 synthetic oil and use ZDDP Max(by Turbo Maxx) additive package with it.
I think I'm in love with that good looking oil nerd tour guide. That was unexpected!
You didn't ask what the exact difference between regular amd synthetic oil is.
Base oils are categorized into "groups" which are defined by performance. Conventional or as you stated "regular" oil is considered Group 2 and has a pour point much higher than a synthetic oil (Group 3). Synthetic oil's lower pour point, resistance to heat and better lubricity characteristics make it a much better performer as compared to conventional oils especially in low and high temperature environments. Adding Group 3 to Group 2 base oils gives us "synthetic blend" and improves the overall performance as compared to conventional but short of full synthetic.
Synthetic has longer molecule strands than mineral, every time your drive your car these strands get sheered. Because the strands are longer and more tightly grouped in synthetic it takes longer for the oil to break down, this means the grade of the oil stays at its advertised viscosity for longer.
Adam Randell yup, and also under different temperatures (hotter) can change the pH of the oil (via additives), causing those designed synthetic chains to come apart and form longer “thicker” oil at higher temperatures. And doing the opposite of what basic base oils do. Go science! 😀
Adam Randell
Synthetic base oils have a much higher viscosity index (difference in viscosity from cold to hot) which means less of the polymers required to achieve the desired multi grade. These polymers will shear with use as you say but synthetic oils don’t change as much
Synthetics are man made molecules which means less impurities so has higher resistance to oxidisation and heat leading to longer life
Synthetics also have higher film strength allowing lower viscosities be used hence more power and efficiency
differences is marketing gimmick + extra addictive added = demand higher retailing price 😂
Very educational.
I didn't think it did well, especially with the weights on multi blends. When you write "Winter" beside 20-50 oil and then say the number is the thickness but it thins out (that would be going from 20 to 50 weight, right?) when hot..well...
I mean, how does a 10-30 or 10-40 oil compare to straight 30 weight? Are there any advantages to straight weight oils? Is 20-50 too thick an oil for even older mileage vehicles? How about in the winter?
Just saying, you had the engineer right there.
Robert it's straight forward enough. Take the 20w-50. A 20 weight oil would be thin enough to still flow in the cold, but then once hot it would be very thin. A 50 weight oil would be too thick in the cold, but then as it warms up would still be thick enough to stick to the parts and offer protection at temperature in the summer. The multi-viscosity oil acts like a 20w when cold so it still flows well, but as it warms up it sticks to the parts like a 50. Only ambiguous on the actual flow. From 20->50, does it actually flow like a 20 weight oil, then as it heats up thicken and flow like a 50 weight oil (or roughly stays even flow rate as the temp rises, instead of thinner and faster) or is it simply 20 weight oil, and flows really thin and easy at temp like regular 20 weight oil, but has additives that stick to the parts well, and simply offers the same protection as a 50 weight oil at temp. But a somewhat minor distinction, either way it has the protection of the higher number at temperature, and likely something of a mix between those two ideas in actual multi grade oil..
Have you ever seen 20-50W oil cold? It's like syrup! I run it in my old Foxbody Mustang and a mechanic friend told me to let it warm up before "getting on it" as he has seen the thick stuff break oil pumps due to thickness. Which comes back to what I was asking about...it's not getting thicker as it warms up.
But most any 20W will be much thicker when cold, and of course maybe more so with the additives. The real difference will be how it achieves the 50 at high temps, by actually being as thick as a 50 weight at those temps, or being nearly as thin as a 20 weight at those temps, but the additives just make it stick to parts better and have a thin layer of stronger protection than plain 20 weight at that temp. Minor distinction, 50 weight at high temp is probably thinner than 20 weight at low temps anyway, it would just change the flow characteristics but the protection is still basically 50 weight equivalent at high temps either way.
Its wise to understand that you're not going to appease a majority crowd by being too specific. Most people dont care about specifics, they just want to know generally what is the best. He gave good analogies of how to interpret the different types of oil, and for the general person for everyday use, using your manual to find the ideal oil is good advice. I think its fine. Might have to crack open a chemistry book if you want to get into it more.
Great lenswork!
Loved it! Glad I , didn't skip a min! ..
Oil intervals set by manufacturers are way too long... BMW, Land Rover 25-26k intervals are crazy.. I work on BMW’s on a daily basis and see the damage these intervals cause. I pull valve covers off BMW’s with 75,000km and they are sludged inside - these are cars with full manufacturer service history. Long life oil is a load of crap. Change oil every 10,000km or less. Don’t care what car or what the oil spec is.
AJHaMi Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’ve been told manufactures use these 30k intervals as a marketing trick. They know it’s bad for the engine, but as long as it stays together during the warranty period, they are happy. What happens after they don’t care...
My Euro spec 2017 M3 has a interval of 30k. I use 10k intervals.
PQR5CHE Yes, exactly. People buying the cars new go... “Wow we only have to change the oil every 30k.” All just making the car more attractive to buy. I would definitely be changing the oil in your M3 as often as you can. I do mine every 5,000kms.
You can never change it too much
Yeah I can see only possible that intervals with a gold quality fuel like North europe, with only highway driving and high oil capacity... but for city not any close to recommended
They get tax cuts for being more eco friendly when they advertise such high oil intervals. Also in the trans/diff there's no such thing as lifetime oil even though dealerships will lie to your face. If you change your fluids at a normal interval modern cars will last 300k+ miles EASY. There's so many reasons for the automakers to lie and have long service intervals but it's all driven by greed!!
heyy!! It's Brad Pitt as a mechanic 9:58 xD
TacoBell he wish he looks like him
he's even done his hair like Pitt's
EXCELLENT VIDEO BRO ! THANKS !
Excelent video! Congrats!
Another great video Larry! I like the journalist approach. If anyone cares about going deeper down the rabbit hole, here's a pretty detailed look at the technical side of engine oil: ruclips.net/video/l-zDt9FGJi8/видео.html
Just two comments:
When people say "tight tolerances," they usually mean "tight clearances." Tight clearances require tight tolerances, but you can have a loose clearance between parts made to tight tolerances. I still say it, and didn't think about it until I saw it on a web forum. Do a web search for more info. It's sort of like how firearm people say "accuracy" when they are talking about what is technically defined as "precision." Everyone says it, and everyone knows what is meant, but it's technically incorrect.
The SAE numbers (20, 30, 40) aren't measures, they are ratings. They don't equal any units of viscosity, they are just convenient numbers to use. SAE 40 isn't twice as "thick" as SAE 20, for example. People see SAE 5W and thing OMG that's 1/4 as thick as 20W but that's not correct.
Absolutely right.
It's like an 18 year old explaining this for the first time to his friends. Pro tip: mechanics usually know the LEAST about lubes. "20w-50, duh"
It's been a few decades since I saw video of oil testing, but there is a friction roller test used to find the shear point [how much pressure it takes to break film thickness and get metal on metal contact]. It's more informative than viscosity [which does matter also]. Seems like the best real world evaluation, but no idea if or how SAE ratings use it in their ratings. There's way more to consider than a 10w-40 rating [for example] when designers pick machinery lubricants, but I suspect each rating has acceptable performance range limits to get SAE approval.
i always thought of the two numbers as temperatures. "αW-β oil is appropriate for climates with temperatures ranging from α° Celsius to β° Celsius... *roughly*"
SAE numbers ARE actually measures of something: the amount of seconds that grade of oil takes to flow through some tube that the SAE uses for quantifying grades.
Well explained! Thank you!
Great video,really informative.
Can i use cooking oil?
Fuente personal lube is better
Yes but just for 1 time and very short distance
Fuentes cooking oil is an excellent choice for frying your engine. Canola based oil is the tastiest choice and is heart healthy too!
Fuentes i used to top up my 100cc motorcycle engine with cooking oil.. no problems.. lol.. don't ask why..
There is a video somewhere! But the answer is no the food grade oil is too thin and will burn out much faster. Cooking oil makes for a great fuel in diesel cars if you mix it right
I have learnt that you must wear safety glasses when doing an interview, very dangerous if the geek your interviewing projects a bit of spit in your direction.
I drive a 67 chevy impala 327 daily and a 69 chevy c-10 with 350 i put 20w 50 raceing oil in both them, i rebuilt both engines 327 and 350 but there the old cast iron engines with hydraulic lifters on the camshaft high zinc is needed!
Add Red Line break in oil. Full of ZPPD. BTW, I use 10W-40 in my 327 64 Vette. Was recently rebuilt. 20W-50 is a little thick.
So, it’s kinda like this, synthetic oils will always give the best protection, this is because of the way there designed on a molecular level, the molecule chains are more uniform, tighter, therefore they resist sheer much better and take longer to break down. They are also designed to absorb contamination (ash, water, dirt particles, etc) thereby keeping the engine cleaner, (this is typically why they allow for a longer drain interval, think of it like this, a conventional oils molecular structure is kinda like a handful of gravel, with the molecules being different shapes and sizes, so they don’t hold up as well/long, synthetic oils molecular structure is like a handful of marbles, all molecules being the same size/shape, and because of this they hold up much longer, and keep your engine cleaner. Then there are the additives. Additives help the oil do everything from change viscosity, to antifoaming, and everything in between
Semi synthetic oil is probably the best marketing scheme out there, because there is no government regulation as to what constitutes a “syn blend” oil, oil companies can literally put an eyedropper of synthetic oil in to a 10,000 gallon vat of conventional and call it a blend. Stay away from blends, your just waisting your money, because you cant be sure what you really have.
The other trick bag about car manufacturers and oil is a lot of them wont come right and say it requires a synthetic oil. Instead, they say must meet Chevrolet dexos specifications, or BMW 12345677, and so you have to do a little digging to see what really does and does not. You have to be careful with that because car manufacturers/dealers will do anything to avoid honoring a warranty. If you have an engine problem that you think is warranty, the first thing there going to ask for are maintenance records, and if you don’t have them, no warranty, if you have them, but they find you haven’t been using an approved oil, no warranty, on and on and on. This includes vehicles that are recommended for 0-20, 5-20 can void your warranty, so be careful
Was it just me or did that "lab guy" have a new never used white (with the creases still in) coat? And why did he have those gloves on, not to mention the teacher science glasses? Still a good vid tho ;)
Ian Roughley because we have multiple lab coats, and bring out the good ones for occasions like these. Haha! At least that is what I do at work....