I have two k2500x, pc2x and triton Le88. They all use the same model of Fatar key bed. I replaced the pc2x, which was completely broken and no longer repairable, by purchasing a very cheap used digital piano with the same keybed. Digital pianos in very good condition can be found at very low prices on the used market. (20$~50$) But your keyboard repair videos are very helpful. thank you!
Thank you for this video. I have a PC88 that I needed to do some felt repair and this helped me greatly!! I had "knocking" keys where the felt strip underneath the key-weights had disintegrated over time. This keyboard model is like 25 years old! It's been my favorite controller keyboard for the last 15 years. I've had 3 of these boards. Sold my first one, then a friend lent me his for a few years, then bought another one off ebay. The most recent one I have had the knocking keys problem. Once disassembled down the key-weight chassis, I was able to remove the old felt fragments and replace with craft felt with adhesive backing. I cut in 3/4" strips and applied to the back of the chassis. I found this solution from an online thread where someone had success using the craft felt. This is felt that the key-weights fall back down to after depressing the keys. If you need to replace the felt at the front of the chassis (what the key-weights press down on when pressing a key), you may want to find a replacement chassis from a Kurzweil used part vendor. I've found a few that still have them. Just google. My key contacts were fine, but the direction on taking they keys apart was super brilliant and extremely helpful. I now have a chopstick as part of my tool set, LOL. I sanded down the non-pointy end of the chopstick just like he said into a "flat-head" shape. This helped me remove the old felt fragments by utilizing the flat-head as a tiny chisel to scrape away the old felt. This helped preserve the plastic of the chassis. Using something metal would have scraped it up. Again, thank you for posting this video!!!!!!!!! This is so awesome!!
Big thanks for this video. My PC3LE8 had a key which always played quietly, and your walkthrough gave me the confidence to dismantle the beast and give it a clean. Working perfectly now!
Wow! GREAT Video... Thanks for posting it! You just saved me $185. That was the estimate that I received to clean the contacts on my Kurzweill SP76 that had the SAME exact problem that you described concerning one key that played at full velocity. U are da MAN :)
I am happy this video helped you! If you get a chance, replace the "super capacitor " on the engine board. They will eventually leak and corrode traces.
I have an Alesis QS8.2 and I hate the sounds but love the action...until a key dropped out. Thanks to you I got my favorite controller back on-line. Thanks!
Duane- thanks man. I bookmarked this a long time ago and used it this week to fix my Studiologic 990 Pro which had one loud key (B flat in the 4th octave) and I did everything you said- took it apart, cleaned the PCB boards and the rubber pieces with the alcohol, put everything back together and BAM, worked perfectly. So much better now. Can't thank you enough!!!
This is a great video and one I will most definitely refer to because, as you may recall, you helped the guy at Pro-tech by phone when he couldn't get the aftertouch strip back in right. They had sold and installed a replacement keybed to me in 2010. It squeaked from the onset but works. I'll fix it at some point thanks to this video, Duane. Right now I'm repairing and restoring my 80's Memorymoog which needless to say is very time consuming. Hope all is good with you, Duane.
Hi Duane, thank you so much. I was trying to figure to how to repair my Nord 88 Piano all morning - no success. After watching your video it was a snap. Cheers, Steve 13
Thanks. I had the squeak... removed the keyboard unit, but didn't see that the keys could be popped out individually. I thought I was going to have to slide the weights out from the side, but they didn't want to come. Thanks for the demonstration!
I took apart my Nord NS2 88EX this week. The key board noise began 2 months after the warranty expired. I did pretty much what you did. But I haven't tried vaseline on the felt, yet. Thanks for that tip. I still have 2 keys that clack like crazy, even after lubricating the pivot area. $4,440 for a great Nord, and Fatar ruins it with their outdated design. Ain't that life. Thanks for the video.
Thank You so much !! I bought a used Kurzweil sp2x a couple of days ago, and the guy told me it was workin perfectly, but then while I was playing I found that the one octave higher than middle C, Eb key, is playing maybe at full velocity or a slightly lower. So I will have to do what u did, and maybe remove all the keys because its kinda dirty inside :D IDK what would I do without this video. :D
boy a differance yes is great and much more usefull in duribility .. be aware in key single death also upon tp 100 fartar ... im at face book and soon to apply fixens ... respectfully Michael heard
Thank you Duane! You are a gentleman and a scholar for posting this video. My keys make a klunking sound when I play. I took it to a repair place that Kurzweill recommended to me and they replaced the felt, but that didn't really fix the problem. They told me they had done all they could do. What say you?
Three things come to mind. 1) Broken counter weights (unlikely though since the "feel" would change). 2) Broken weight bracket (the part that holds the weight rod in place) or 3) The keyboard assembly is bent. Most likely 3 is the culprit.
Great video! I have squeaky keys on my PC-88mx. I also have ones that are clacking very loudly. Do you address that anywhere? I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to open the thing up, but I might be now that I see how easy it is. Otherwise, it functions great!
If you happen to be repairing a Baldwin DVP80, there is an additional step. It uses the same keyboard, but there is a lower spring. Attached to one of the lower protruding pieces of the key is a push on tap that has a C shape in it. That C shape accepts a lower spring that is underneath. Make sure you detach it first before attempting to lift the key or you might overstretch the spring.
Cortez77fr Finaly I've took the time to work in the keyboard and I've removed tons of dust, restored the velocity of 1 key and the noise of various (sadly there is still a noisy key after reassembly, but too tired today to open it again. Thanls again !
Man this was interesting. i just recently acquired a k2500x and it has 2 keys in the middle of the keyboard that feels like they are easier to push down than the other keys but the same time don't come the whole way up. gonna have to check why that is.. from this video it doesn't look impossible... another issue is that there seems to be something in the way of the highest note.. i can push it down gently but something is kindof scraping. gonna see if i can work that out to... awesome video!.
insaneduane Yes, I changed one of the rubber strips and my Bb key came back to life. The modulation wheel on my Studiologic 990 sends erratic data...not smooth...any suggestions? Have a wonderful weekend and thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Hi Duane, thanks for this great video! It really helps shed light on an otherwise, pretty daunting place for the home repair person to venture into. Question: Would you know what might be causing a "knock" sound when pressing down on a key?
Thanks for the video. Just purchased a SP6 and the last 5-10 keys aren't fully creating sound. When touched they sound dead. What do you suggest I do to repair ? How do I take the keyboard apart ?
i have a imark 4 its been a great keyboard i had bad solder cobnections on it 15 years ago where it wouldnt play ..now f# 1 stopt playing . also when i first turn it on it comes on flat. and will go back to pitch when it warms up. do to its age i believe some caps gave gonrme bad . i woeked as a repair tech for along time
Mr Insane! I do have a question about a Kurzweil PC2. Looks like your video will solve the squeak problem but we have another long piece of felt that is squashed from use. 5-6 keys around the middle C klunk hard as you release. Should I reach in and fluff these areas of felt and apply the Vaseline like on the red felt? I don't see a place to monetarily subscribe. If there is let me know where. Thank you, Mike in Lansing, MI (there are 3 long felts in this keybed. 2 would be accessible to change with the keys out. The problem is with the 3rd one which is not accessible)
Insane, Duane. I just paid a repairman $250 to fix my Forte 88 because the velocity on one note was full each time the note was hit. I guess he replaced all the contacts ($8 an octave + labor). With your video, I could have done it myself. One problem. Well, I think it's a problem, my tech seems to think it was always this way. After the Forte has been put back together, something sounds like it shifts inside when carrying the keyboard. You can put it on one end and rock it back and forward and hear some kind of clump. Like the keyboard assembly? Don't know. Had my tech open it twice and he can't find anything. Any ideas from you, Duane? Or anyone else? Thanks in advance.
Hello Duane. How could I thank you for your advice and precious video? I'm in Rio, Brasil, and just unplugged my PC 88 off, for it is not the squeeking only but it may have lost its keybeds effect, probably due to severe use and teaching during all those years. I have this knock sound perceived in the real piano when the keybeds are worn. I didn't open it yet but if the counterweights are broken I'm afraid I won't be able to get spare parts. There is a B5 ( to me where it reads C4 is actually C3 in the piano). So, if considering C4 in the middle of the keyboard it might be B6. This B lost its sensitivity and sounds louder. I'm able to sort of controlling it reducing the note in duration. Hope you be around for I need you, for sure. Thanks a lot. I have the PC88 Service Manual but I'm unable to read all those charts, and diagrams. I already opened it once and changed the battery and that's all I could do by my own. Greetings. Hugo Braule.
Thank you for this video. Do you know if this will be similar to the 88-note TP/40WOOD found on the SL88 grand? or is there a video about it?? Studio Logic is NOT being helpful!
I'm not sure. Most Fatar keyboard assemblies have a similar design as far as how to remove keys and the keycontact pcb. The weight mechanisms are different between the TP-10 and TP-30. I haven't seen a TP-40 WOOD so I cannot comment on that one.
Good video Duane! I am a tech in hawaii where there is plenty of corrosion form salt air. Is the keyboard of the MP10 similar to the one in your video? Also , if the MP10 I will be servicing has too much corrosion on the contact boards (like I find on many older Yamaha digitals), is there a supplier of the boards in the US if I need them? TIA
You can try : www.midi-store.com/Fatar-Key-Contact-PCB-Bundle-p/sku27819.htm This is for the fatar TP-10 series. Looking at the picture should let you know if it will work.
Hey. I have a ka110 with a key problem that when i press a few makes a sound inside like hitting plastic against plastic. I've already disassembled it and saw that at the end of the plastic key the rubber got old. Ive fixed that but anyway some of the keys seem to do that noise from the contact part or whatever. I didnt take a look at that part... But had you repair one of this model with this particular problem?
Could you do a demonstration on how to repair floppy weights. My Pc88 has a few that are floppy and I'm dying to get these fixed but do not know how. I sure would appreciate it. Thanks.
Hi, thanks for the great video. I have also squeaky keys on my PC3K7, so do you know is there any circuit or something under the keysprings of PC3K7 that could be damaged if I lubricate springs without opening the device? I have tried contact cleaner but it only helped for a while, so I think I'll need to use some another lubricant that might damage electrical things.
I am replacing the felt on each hammer on my Kurzweil RG200. Do you recommend mostly wool felt (70%) that is used in grand pianos, or would craft store synthetic felt work? (%50 "eco-fi" polyester/recycled plastic bottle material, and other %50 unknown). I am also replacing the foam/felt strips that deaden the keys hitting and returning on the keyboard cage. They are glued to the metal on the top and bottom of the cage. Is there a specific thickness of felt and or foam, or can I possibly buy this material somewhere? This is driving me crazy...second time I had this apart...first time just fixed a broken hammer. The plastic on the hammers that holds the actual weight inside of it is cracked on many hammers. I plan on epoxying these and filling in the cracks to prevent breaking. Any suggestions? I already have one hammer rack out and have four different types of glues ready. Thanks!
hi kurzweilguy, I followed your instructions in detail but I still have squeaky sounds on the keys and after cleaning the rubber contacts stripes I still do not sound some keys could you help me?
Thx for this. I have an old, but extremely nice Kurzweil grand piano. It has a 3.5" disk drive. Any ideas how or if I can upgrade the computer and enable modern tech?
The 5-10 keys to the Right aren't producing sound. How do I take the unit apart from the beginning so I can see what the problem is......... For: Kurzweil SP6
Hello I buy a New Fatar 88TP 40GH + C (DF )it hasn’t got the aftertouch. Is it possible to trasnpose the aftertouch from another Fatar keyboard form an old Oberheim MC2000 ?? ciao
Hi Duane many thanks for that great video. It is really helpful. I have one question. I recently bought a used Fatar Studio 1100. To my knowledge it has the same keyboard built in. Now aprox. 4 of 5 white keys make that squeaking. Now because i will have to remove so many keys i think the best decision might be to remove ALL keys and give the whole keyboard a complete service on this occasion. Do you have any tip or advice what other maintenance (especially to the moving parts) besides general cleaning and what is shown in your video i could accomplish? Many thanks in advance :)
Worked great. My girlfriend and I used a crochet needle to get the springs out. way easy. However, the unit had been in my closet for five or six years and i lost the pictures i took of where the cables all went. II put it back together as best I could remember and only five keys i the middle of the board work as they're supposed to the rest all perform random actions. do you have a layout of the cables or any recommendations? Also I found a mark III that only has a backlight on the lcd but does nothing else. Please help! Thanks!!!!!
Hi there Duane. I have an issue hopefully you'll know. I got the keybed out and cleaned everything, but still get two loud key. The upper contact, the one that measures velocity doesnt work even if cleaned. I bought new key contacts and still the same. Would you think I have to replace that half board? Thanks a lot for this video!
What model? In most Kurzweil home products the audio signal goes through the headphone jack then to the speaker amps then speakers. So if the headphones are plugged in, no audio to the speakers but as soon as the headphones are unplugged, audio will be sent to the speakers.
Fantastic video, immensely helpful on my Kurzweil. Do you have any suggestions on key dip adjustments? The bass end of this PC2X works great, the middle of the treble end (white keys only) is not reaching the rubber buttons. They look to need another 1/16th of an inch, compared to the other working keys. Any help appreciated!
Hi Duane I own a Kurzweil Mark 10 and the last key on the right won't go back up when you play it. Do you think it might be a spring problem or something else? My problem also is how to removed the key assembly from the unit so I can replaced the spring if that is the problem. Appreciate you reply. Thanks.
hello, I have two Casio keyboards wk-1800 & wk 1630. Both have the same issue, 8 keys in the upper register only play once. They only play if the touch sensitivity is turned off, but they only play once and then will not play again until the keyboard is turned off & on. On the screen, it shows that they these notes are still being played/ sustained, that is why you can not play them again. I have already opened up the keyboard, vacuumed up all dust & debris in and around keys & wiped down the circuit board. I have also tried switching the pads from other working keys to see if the pads need to be replaced, but unfortunately the problem still exists. I haven't been able to find someone who can fix the keyboard on the island where I live. If you can give me any direction toward fixing the problem, I would most appreciate it. thanks & kind regards.
I have a baldwin DVP-80 digital piano and I "believe" it has a Fatar TP10 keyboard (it surely looks like this one). 1) how can I confirm for sure it is a TP10? and 2) I have a broken key. What is a good source for a replacement (G below middle C). Thanks
Great video. I have the problem with squeaky keys and I'll try to fix it. I have a couple of questions. Do you think it's possible to use silicon-spray instead of removing the entire keyboard? I have a Kurzweil PC-88 and there is no sound at all in the right channel, not even with headphones. Is it possible to fix it or has the motherboard went broken? Thank you for the upload.
Same advice as KeeDx3. Don't spray. I did, I sprayed a teflon silicone spray with a tube nozzle. It did nothing for the squeak, much to my dismay. I couldn't tell where the squeak was coming from, so I sprayed a bit at the top of the key and the bottom of the key. Those didn't work, so I sprayed along each edge of the key. As I continued to see if by repeated pressing, the action would "work it in," what really happened was that the notes started sounding very loud, and then quit working all together. From the spraying that I described, just on one key (top, bottom, and sides), I completely lost sound on 8 keys, and 1-2 on either side of that group were very loud. I ended up taking everything apart, and determining that the key lever rubbing on the patch of red felt was responsible, I came here to find out what to use since the silicone and telfon didn't work. Meanwhile, the red felt was saturated with spray, which I had to press in order to express. Also, as an FYI, spraying the silicone/telflon also chemically damaged the rubber boot with the contacts in it. I put it back on, swapped the rubber boots where it was damaged from some from the highest keys on the treble side, because I rarely use them. Hope this will be helpful to someone in the future.
Try here : www.midi-store.com/Fatar-Rubber-Contact-for-SL880-990-13-12-p/sku17166.htm Make sure they are the correct type. What model do you have (K2000, Pc3, ect)?
very good video! Duane I see you have Enough knowledge about this k2500xs keyboard ok,there is a problem to be performing at my keyboard, I try to describe the situation ok when I turn on my keyboard he is leaving and coming back; for example I'm playing piano it is sainda for page volumes it suddenly without my Utilise access buttons ok got it? What could be this?
Do you have any idea where you can get spare parts for these? On my fatar one spring (which lifts the key) is loose and i actually just need one of those.. Thanks!
Hey people :) I have a Kurzweil MP 10. Some time ago I accidently spilled some water on the lower keys. They work so far but one of them sounds very quiet. What can I do to fix it? Is this the water problem or just it being old and played a lot? Because water was spilled around 4 months ago...
Hi there, I realize this is a very old video but I disconnected the two cables and when I reconnected it there’s no sound. If there’s any way you or someone could help I’d be mighty appreciative.
Hello have anu issue with my MP15. some of the keys have started to go down on its own. They are int the pressed Condition and there isn't any sound on those keys. would you by any chance know how to fix it. Kurzweil hasn't responded and the tech's here in India don't want to touch it. ... would be great if someone could help :) thx in advance
Duane, I have a K 2500, the 76 key type with the plastic keys. Two of my treble keys are stuck in the depressed position. How do I open my keyboard to get to the keys and how do I fix the depressed keys? Thanks!
Hello how platelets could get 2 contact Kurzweil PC88? In Argentina where I live do not get. I have very high sounding keys and others not. all thanks to a bad work done by a technician. Thank you ..
Hey man your website is down...is there a way to contact you? I've got a Kurtzweil digital baby grand Mark 250 that won't power up. Please let me know thank you
Hi Duane, I am trying to contact you because I have a problem with my Kurzweil PC88. Your website seems down... This is a 'board problem' and I read on many websites you can help... is that true ? If yes, how can we communicate ? Thanks in advance
Duane, this video is pretty old. I have tried to reach you for Kurzweil repairs and found phones disconnected. Are you still doing the Kurzweil repairs somewhere?
Thanks for the video. I've got a Fatar keyboard, and one key's green plastic pivot tab has broken off. I've tried a couple of different glues, but nothing holds up once the key is snapped into place and the spring is pushing up on the key. I'm thinking that I need to pull out the steel rod running through all the pivots and replace the green plastic pivot. Any pointers?
+Charles Spencer I ended up drilling a small hole through the top of the key and into the green pivot, and then putting a screw in to hold the key down to the pivot. It works OK, although the feel of that one key is slightly different from the others.
tempting.. cause this one key doesn't sound when I play very quietly.. And this is a with a full key contact board replacement. How far out is the different feel? Could a washer or other adjustment perhaps perfect it? I can only find used pivots for sale on line and I'm not even sure how to extract the rod.... Very tempting, your solution is.
+Charles Spencer The feel of the repaired key is not noticeably different so much as it just plays very slightly more softly. Given how weak the plastic is, I didn't want to tighten the screw any further.
I kinda unloaded on another guy who posted a repair video for the same reason that I have a complaint about your video, but on reflection I realize that was really unfair. I really appreciate that you're making the video, but both the other video and yours suffer greatly from including NO close-ups at all. What you're referring to is really hard to tell without a close-up.
Наука
I have two k2500x, pc2x and triton Le88. They all use the same model of Fatar key bed. I replaced the pc2x, which was completely broken and no longer repairable, by purchasing a very cheap used digital piano with the same keybed. Digital pianos in very good condition can be found at very low prices on the used market. (20$~50$)
But your keyboard repair videos are very helpful. thank you!
Thank you for this video. I have a PC88 that I needed to do some felt repair and this helped me greatly!! I had "knocking" keys where the felt strip underneath the key-weights had disintegrated over time. This keyboard model is like 25 years old! It's been my favorite controller keyboard for the last 15 years. I've had 3 of these boards. Sold my first one, then a friend lent me his for a few years, then bought another one off ebay. The most recent one I have had the knocking keys problem. Once disassembled down the key-weight chassis, I was able to remove the old felt fragments and replace with craft felt with adhesive backing. I cut in 3/4" strips and applied to the back of the chassis. I found this solution from an online thread where someone had success using the craft felt. This is felt that the key-weights fall back down to after depressing the keys. If you need to replace the felt at the front of the chassis (what the key-weights press down on when pressing a key), you may want to find a replacement chassis from a Kurzweil used part vendor. I've found a few that still have them. Just google. My key contacts were fine, but the direction on taking they keys apart was super brilliant and extremely helpful. I now have a chopstick as part of my tool set, LOL. I sanded down the non-pointy end of the chopstick just like he said into a "flat-head" shape. This helped me remove the old felt fragments by utilizing the flat-head as a tiny chisel to scrape away the old felt. This helped preserve the plastic of the chassis. Using something metal would have scraped it up. Again, thank you for posting this video!!!!!!!!! This is so awesome!!
Im picking up a Mark 152 and squeaky keys is the only real issue. Can’t wait to pull it apart! Thanks for the video!
Used your video to fix the squeak. Fantastic! Now the keys aren't annoying. You ROCK!
thanks for this vid, even after a decade! I just took apart my 25yr old Doepfer PK88 with A LOT of squeaky keys, and fixed them all.
I'm happy my video helped you!
Thanks for the video. I used your guidance to solve a velocity problem on my PC88. I would have been floundering without your help.
You have just allowed me to move my Kurzweil from the closet to the studio. Thanks you.
Big thanks for this video. My PC3LE8 had a key which always played quietly, and your walkthrough gave me the confidence to dismantle the beast and give it a clean. Working perfectly now!
I'm glad you were able to fix your keyboard! Rock On!!
Wow! GREAT Video... Thanks for posting it! You just saved me $185. That was the estimate that I received to clean the contacts on my Kurzweill SP76 that had the SAME exact problem that you described concerning one key that played at full velocity. U are da MAN :)
Great video. With the absence of Bob Ross these videos are also very calming and zen
He’s the Bob Ross of Kurzweil! 🙏
Thanks to you, I was able to repair a broken counter weigh on my 30 year old Mark 10!
I am happy this video helped you! If you get a chance, replace the "super capacitor " on the engine board. They will eventually leak and corrode traces.
I have an Alesis QS8.2 and I hate the sounds but love the action...until a key dropped out. Thanks to you I got my favorite controller back on-line. Thanks!
Duane- thanks man. I bookmarked this a long time ago and used it this week to fix my Studiologic 990 Pro which had one loud key (B flat in the 4th octave) and I did everything you said- took it apart, cleaned the PCB boards and the rubber pieces with the alcohol, put everything back together and BAM, worked perfectly. So much better now. Can't thank you enough!!!
This is a great video and one I will most definitely refer to because, as you may recall, you helped the guy at Pro-tech by phone when he couldn't get the aftertouch strip back in right. They had sold and installed a replacement keybed to me in 2010. It squeaked from the onset but works. I'll fix it at some point thanks to this video, Duane. Right now I'm repairing and restoring my 80's Memorymoog which needless to say is very time consuming. Hope all is good with you, Duane.
One of the keys didn't work on my Kurzweil. Now it does! Thank you!!! :)
Hi Duane, thank you so much. I was trying to figure to how to repair my Nord 88 Piano all morning - no success. After watching your video it was a snap.
Cheers, Steve 13
Thanks. I had the squeak... removed the keyboard unit, but didn't see that the keys could be popped out individually. I thought I was going to have to slide the weights out from the side, but they didn't want to come. Thanks for the demonstration!
Your welcome!
I know this is old but I am about to try and fix some loud and non responsive keys on my Mark 10 using your video. Thank you so much for this!
I'm glad to have helped!
Any luck? I have a dead key on my newly bought second hand Mark 10 Kurzweil …
I really like watching your video 😘👍👍👍💯
I took apart my Nord NS2 88EX this week. The key board noise began 2 months after the warranty expired. I did pretty much what you did. But I haven't tried vaseline on the felt, yet. Thanks for that tip. I still have 2 keys that clack like crazy, even after lubricating the pivot area. $4,440 for a great Nord, and Fatar ruins it with their outdated design. Ain't that life. Thanks for the video.
Great stuff, my second hand K2600 has the full velocity problem on D4 so now I know how to get this sorted thanks :-)
Helped me dismantle my OB-6 to get some dirt out from a deadkey. Thanks for your video! :D
Thank You so much !! I bought a used Kurzweil sp2x a couple of days ago, and the guy told me it was workin perfectly, but then while I was playing I found that the one octave higher than middle C, Eb key, is playing maybe at full velocity or a slightly lower. So I will have to do what u did, and maybe remove all the keys because its kinda dirty inside :D IDK what would I do without this video. :D
Thanks for great advise. Finally I fixed the squeaky Bb key that was driving me and my students nuts. lol. Best wishes. Maestro Alex. :)
Awesome, someday I wish you compare the old TP/10 with newer fatar actions like the TP/40 and TP/100, which appear to be designed very differently.
boy a differance yes is great and much more usefull in duribility .. be aware in key single death also upon tp 100 fartar ... im at face book and soon to apply fixens ... respectfully Michael heard
God love you for posting this video!! Saved me more time than I card to explain. Thank you x 1000
I'm glad it helped!
Brilliant tutorial. Just what I needed. Thanks!!!
In a world full of shite RUclips videos masquerading as tutorials, videos like this are a refreshing change. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you for your comment.
Thank you Duane! You are a gentleman and a scholar for posting this video.
My keys make a klunking sound when I play. I took it to a repair place that Kurzweill recommended to me and they replaced the felt, but that didn't really fix the problem. They told me they had done all they could do. What say you?
Three things come to mind. 1) Broken counter weights (unlikely though since the "feel" would change). 2) Broken weight bracket (the part that holds the weight rod in place) or 3) The keyboard assembly is bent. Most likely 3 is the culprit.
Top man, helped me fix my Fatar Studio 900, thanks a lot :)p
Great video! I have squeaky keys on my PC-88mx. I also have ones that are clacking very loudly. Do you address that anywhere? I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to open the thing up, but I might be now that I see how easy it is. Otherwise, it functions great!
If you happen to be repairing a Baldwin DVP80, there is an additional step. It uses the same keyboard, but there is a lower spring. Attached to one of the lower protruding pieces of the key is a push on tap that has a C shape in it. That C shape accepts a lower spring that is underneath. Make sure you detach it first before attempting to lift the key or you might overstretch the spring.
Thanks for your video, I'll try soon to clean my new K2500XS keyboard.
Cortez77fr Finaly I've took the time to work in the keyboard and I've removed tons of dust, restored the velocity of 1 key and the noise of various (sadly there is still a noisy key after reassembly, but too tired today to open it again. Thanls again !
Man this was interesting. i just recently acquired a k2500x and it has 2 keys in the middle of the keyboard that feels like they are easier to push down than the other keys but the same time don't come the whole way up. gonna have to check why that is.. from this video it doesn't look impossible...
another issue is that there seems to be something in the way of the highest note.. i can push it down gently but something is kindof scraping.
gonna see if i can work that out to...
awesome video!.
Sounds like a broken counterweight. Did you find/fix the problem?
SO helpful. Many thanks!
THANKS FOR THIS GREAT VIDEO DUANE!!!!! YOU SAVED ME!!
I'm happy this vid helped you!
insaneduane Yes, I changed one of the rubber strips and my Bb key came back to life. The modulation wheel on my Studiologic 990 sends erratic data...not smooth...any suggestions? Have a wonderful weekend and thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Sounds like a bad/dirty potentiometer . Replace it if you can find a replacement. You can also try a contact cleaner made for volume knobs.
Thank you, brother!! You helped me a lot!!
Thanks for the video, I work with the k2000,Similar proceefure.
Outstanding!
Thanks for posting this, well done!
This is amazing thank you so much
SOSOSOSOSOSOMUCH helpFUL!!
Спасибо за видео!
добро пожаловать.
Hi Duane, thanks for this great video! It really helps shed light on an otherwise, pretty daunting place for the home repair person to venture into.
Question: Would you know what might be causing a "knock" sound when pressing down on a key?
Most likely a broken counterweight.
+insaneduane So, I just found that I do have a broken counterweight. How do I repair?
great video! Thanks!
Hey man thanks for this video, any experience with the Fatar TP100LR?
Thank you!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the video. Just purchased a SP6 and the last 5-10 keys aren't fully creating sound. When touched they sound dead. What do you suggest I do to repair ?
How do I take the keyboard apart ?
i have a imark 4 its been a great keyboard i had bad solder cobnections on it 15 years ago where it wouldnt play ..now f# 1 stopt playing . also when i first turn it on it comes on flat. and will go back to pitch when it warms up. do to its age i believe some caps gave gonrme bad . i woeked as a repair tech for along time
thank you so much!!!
Mr Insane! I do have a question about a Kurzweil PC2. Looks like your video will solve the squeak problem but we have another long piece of felt that is squashed from use. 5-6 keys around the middle C klunk hard as you release. Should I reach in and fluff these areas of felt and apply the Vaseline like on the red felt? I don't see a place to monetarily subscribe. If there is let me know where. Thank you, Mike in Lansing, MI
(there are 3 long felts in this keybed. 2 would be accessible to change with the keys out. The problem is with the 3rd one which is not accessible)
Insane, Duane. I just paid a repairman $250 to fix my Forte 88 because the velocity on one note was full each time the note was hit. I guess he replaced all the contacts ($8 an octave + labor). With your video, I could have done it myself.
One problem. Well, I think it's a problem, my tech seems to think it was always this way. After the Forte has been put back together, something sounds like it shifts inside when carrying the keyboard. You can put it on one end and rock it back and forward and hear some kind of clump. Like the keyboard assembly? Don't know. Had my tech open it twice and he can't find anything. Any ideas from you, Duane? Or anyone else?
Thanks in advance.
Hello Duane. How could I thank you for your advice and precious video? I'm in Rio, Brasil, and just unplugged my PC 88 off, for it is not the squeeking only but it may have lost its keybeds effect, probably due to severe use and teaching during all those years. I have this knock sound perceived in the real piano when the keybeds are worn. I didn't open it yet but if the counterweights are broken I'm afraid I won't be able to get spare parts. There is a B5 ( to me where it reads C4 is actually C3 in the piano). So, if considering C4 in the middle of the keyboard it might be B6. This B lost its sensitivity and sounds louder. I'm able to sort of controlling it reducing the note in duration. Hope you be around for I need you, for sure. Thanks a lot. I have the PC88 Service Manual but I'm unable to read all those charts, and diagrams. I already opened it once and changed the battery and that's all I could do by my own. Greetings. Hugo Braule.
Helpful video! I have to change the hammers of 2 keys because they're broken. Do you know how to do it?
Thank you for this video. Do you know if this will be similar to the 88-note TP/40WOOD found on the SL88 grand? or is there a video about it?? Studio Logic is NOT being helpful!
I'm not sure. Most Fatar keyboard assemblies have a similar design as far as how to remove keys and the keycontact pcb. The weight mechanisms are different between the TP-10 and TP-30. I haven't seen a TP-40 WOOD so I cannot comment on that one.
Good video Duane! I am a tech in hawaii where there is plenty of corrosion form salt air. Is the keyboard of the MP10 similar to the one in your video?
Also , if the MP10 I will be servicing has too much corrosion on the contact boards (like I find on many older Yamaha digitals), is there a supplier of the boards in the US if I need them?
TIA
You can try : www.midi-store.com/Fatar-Key-Contact-PCB-Bundle-p/sku27819.htm
This is for the fatar TP-10 series. Looking at the picture should let you know if it will work.
Do you have a video outlining the process for removing the keyboard from a Mark 5?
No but I posted two pages from the MK5 service manual under the Community Tab on my page.
Hey. I have a ka110 with a key problem that when i press a few makes a sound inside like hitting plastic against plastic. I've already disassembled it and saw that at the end of the plastic key the rubber got old. Ive fixed that but anyway some of the keys seem to do that noise from the contact part or whatever. I didnt take a look at that part... But had you repair one of this model with this particular problem?
Could you do a demonstration on how to repair floppy weights. My Pc88 has a few that are floppy and I'm dying to get these fixed but do not know how. I sure would appreciate it. Thanks.
Hi, thanks for the great video. I have also squeaky keys on my PC3K7, so do you know is there any circuit or something under the keysprings of PC3K7 that could be damaged if I lubricate springs without opening the device? I have tried contact cleaner but it only helped for a while, so I think I'll need to use some another lubricant that might damage electrical things.
interesting video, thanks!
I am replacing the felt on each hammer on my Kurzweil RG200. Do you recommend mostly wool felt (70%) that is used in grand pianos, or would craft store synthetic felt work? (%50 "eco-fi" polyester/recycled plastic bottle material, and other %50 unknown). I am also replacing the foam/felt strips that deaden the keys hitting and returning on the keyboard cage. They are glued to the metal on the top and bottom of the cage. Is there a specific thickness of felt and or foam, or can I possibly buy this material somewhere? This is driving me crazy...second time I had this apart...first time just fixed a broken hammer. The plastic on the hammers that holds the actual weight inside of it is cracked on many hammers. I plan on epoxying these and filling in the cracks to prevent breaking. Any suggestions? I already have one hammer rack out and have four different types of glues ready. Thanks!
hi kurzweilguy,
I followed your instructions in detail but I still have squeaky sounds on the keys and after cleaning the rubber contacts stripes I still do not sound some keys could you help me?
Thx for this. I have an old, but extremely nice Kurzweil grand piano. It has a 3.5" disk drive. Any ideas how or if I can upgrade the computer and enable modern tech?
Hello Steve,
If it's a Mark 110/150 or 112/152 then unfortunately no.
The 5-10 keys to the Right aren't producing sound. How do I take the unit apart from the beginning so I can see what the problem is......... For: Kurzweil SP6
Hello I buy a New Fatar 88TP 40GH + C (DF )it hasn’t got the aftertouch. Is it possible to trasnpose the aftertouch from another Fatar keyboard form an old Oberheim MC2000 ?? ciao
Hi Duane
many thanks for that great video.
It is really helpful.
I have one question.
I recently bought a used Fatar Studio 1100. To my knowledge it has the same keyboard built in.
Now aprox. 4 of 5 white keys make that squeaking.
Now because i will have to remove so many keys i think the best decision might be to remove ALL keys and give the whole keyboard a complete service on this occasion.
Do you have any tip or advice what other maintenance (especially to the moving parts) besides general cleaning and what is shown in your video i could accomplish?
Many thanks in advance :)
Worked great. My girlfriend and I used a crochet needle to get the springs out. way easy. However, the unit had been in my closet for five or six years and i lost the pictures i took of where the cables all went. II put it back together as best I could remember and only five keys i the middle of the board work as they're supposed to the rest all perform random actions. do you have a layout of the cables or any recommendations? Also I found a mark III that only has a backlight on the lcd but does nothing else. Please help! Thanks!!!!!
Hi there Duane. I have an issue hopefully you'll know. I got the keybed out and cleaned everything, but still get two loud key. The upper contact, the one that measures velocity doesnt work even if cleaned. I bought new key contacts and still the same. Would you think I have to replace that half board? Thanks a lot for this video!
Hey if I don’t reconnect the headphone jack will it register headphones and not initiate speakers
What model? In most Kurzweil home products the audio signal goes through the headphone jack then to the speaker amps then speakers. So if the headphones are plugged in, no audio to the speakers but as soon as the headphones are unplugged, audio will be sent to the speakers.
Fantastic video, immensely helpful on my Kurzweil. Do you have any suggestions on key dip adjustments? The bass end of this PC2X works great, the middle of the treble end (white keys only) is not reaching the rubber buttons. They look to need another 1/16th of an inch, compared to the other working keys. Any help appreciated!
Are they put on the correct way (each key has two contacts, one hole is deeper)?
Hi Duane I own a Kurzweil Mark 10 and the last key on the right won't go back up when you play it. Do you think it might be a spring problem or something else? My problem also is how to removed the key assembly from the unit so I can replaced the spring if that is the problem. Appreciate you reply. Thanks.
hello, I have two Casio keyboards wk-1800 & wk 1630. Both have the same issue, 8 keys in the upper register only play once. They only play if the touch sensitivity is turned off, but they only play once and then will not play again until the keyboard is turned off & on. On the screen, it shows that they these notes are still being played/ sustained, that is why you can not play them again. I have already opened up the keyboard, vacuumed up all dust & debris in and around keys & wiped down the circuit board. I have also tried switching the pads from other working keys to see if the pads need to be replaced, but unfortunately the problem still exists. I haven't been able to find someone who can fix the keyboard on the island where I live. If you can give me any direction toward fixing the problem, I would most appreciate it. thanks & kind regards.
Where can i get replacement keys and hammers for the kurxweil K2600 ?
I have a baldwin DVP-80 digital piano and I "believe" it has a Fatar TP10 keyboard (it surely looks like this one). 1) how can I confirm for sure it is a TP10? and 2) I have a broken key. What is a good source for a replacement (G below middle C). Thanks
Great video. I have the problem with squeaky keys and I'll try to fix it. I have a couple of questions. Do you think it's possible to use silicon-spray instead of removing the entire keyboard?
I have a Kurzweil PC-88 and there is no sound at all in the right channel, not even with headphones. Is it possible to fix it or has the motherboard went broken?
Thank you for the upload.
Same advice as KeeDx3. Don't spray. I did, I sprayed a teflon silicone spray with a tube nozzle. It did nothing for the squeak, much to my dismay.
I couldn't tell where the squeak was coming from, so I sprayed a bit at the top of the key and the bottom of the key. Those didn't work, so I sprayed along each edge of the key.
As I continued to see if by repeated pressing, the action would "work it in," what really happened was that the notes started sounding very loud, and then quit working all together.
From the spraying that I described, just on one key (top, bottom, and sides), I completely lost sound on 8 keys, and 1-2 on either side of that group were very loud.
I ended up taking everything apart, and determining that the key lever rubbing on the patch of red felt was responsible, I came here to find out what to use since the silicone and telfon didn't work. Meanwhile, the red felt was saturated with spray, which I had to press in order to express. Also, as an FYI, spraying the silicone/telflon also chemically damaged the rubber boot with the contacts in it.
I put it back on, swapped the rubber boots where it was damaged from some from the highest keys on the treble side, because I rarely use them.
Hope this will be helpful to someone in the future.
Well done video, won’t Vaseline attract/ dust though?
In this case, not enough to have an effect. Also, only put a thin layer on the felt.
Hi, do you know where i can source the rubber contacts?
Try here : www.midi-store.com/Fatar-Rubber-Contact-for-SL880-990-13-12-p/sku17166.htm
Make sure they are the correct type. What model do you have (K2000, Pc3, ect)?
very good video! Duane I see you have Enough knowledge about this k2500xs keyboard ok,there is a problem to be performing at my keyboard, I try to describe the situation ok when I turn on my keyboard he is leaving and coming back; for example I'm playing piano it is sainda for page volumes it suddenly without my Utilise access buttons ok got it? What could be this?
Do you have any idea where you can get spare parts for these?
On my fatar one spring (which lifts the key) is loose and i actually just need one of those..
Thanks!
Thank you! Your video inspired me to make this.
Can you tell where I can buy a kurzweil pc316 internal transformer and what type. Cheers. Lionel.. UK
Hey people :)
I have a Kurzweil MP 10. Some time ago I accidently spilled some water on the lower keys. They work so far but one of them sounds very quiet. What can I do to fix it? Is this the water problem or just it being old and played a lot? Because water was spilled around 4 months ago...
Hi there, I realize this is a very old video but I disconnected the two cables and when I reconnected it there’s no sound. If there’s any way you or someone could help I’d be mighty appreciative.
The pins don’t appear to be damaged as far as I can tell but I really have no way of knowing : (
Hello have anu issue with my MP15. some of the keys have started to go down on its own. They are int the pressed Condition and there isn't any sound on those keys. would you by any chance know how to fix it. Kurzweil hasn't responded and the tech's here in India don't want to touch it. ... would be great if someone could help :) thx in advance
Duane, I have a K 2500, the 76 key type with the plastic keys. Two of my treble keys are stuck in the depressed position. How do I open my keyboard to get to the keys and how do I fix the depressed keys? Thanks!
Hello how platelets could get 2 contact Kurzweil PC88? In Argentina where I live do not get. I have very high sounding keys and others not. all thanks to a bad work done by a technician. Thank you ..
Go here -> www.midi-store.com/Fatar-Rubber-Contact-for-SL880-990-13.12-p-17166.html
Hey man your website is down...is there a way to contact you? I've got a Kurtzweil digital baby grand Mark 250 that won't power up. Please let me know thank you
Hi Duane,
I am trying to contact you because I have a problem with my Kurzweil PC88. Your website seems down... This is a 'board problem' and I read on many websites you can help... is that true ? If yes, how can we communicate ? Thanks in advance
You pro
Duane, this video is pretty old. I have tried to reach you for Kurzweil repairs and found phones disconnected. Are you still doing the Kurzweil repairs somewhere?
No
Where can I get those cap and t-shirt? ;)
Hello Duane, I sended an email about a kurzweil Pc3 problem, could you help me?
Thanks
what kind of oil?
Thanks for the video. I've got a Fatar keyboard, and one key's green plastic pivot tab has broken off. I've tried a couple of different glues, but nothing holds up once the key is snapped into place and the spring is pushing up on the key. I'm thinking that I need to pull out the steel rod running through all the pivots and replace the green plastic pivot. Any pointers?
wow John I'm trying to do the exact same thing right now.. Did you find anything out. I
+Charles Spencer I ended up drilling a small hole through the top of the key and into the green pivot, and then putting a screw in to hold the key down to the pivot. It works OK, although the feel of that one key is slightly different from the others.
tempting.. cause this one key doesn't sound when I play very quietly.. And this is a with a full key contact board replacement. How far out is the different feel? Could a washer or other adjustment perhaps perfect it? I can only find used pivots for sale on line and I'm not even sure how to extract the rod.... Very tempting, your solution is.
+Charles Spencer The feel of the repaired key is not noticeably different so much as it just plays very slightly more softly. Given how weak the plastic is, I didn't want to tighten the screw any further.
12:30
dakika yağın ne tür? Bulamıyorum :(
I kinda unloaded on another guy who posted a repair video for the same reason that I have a complaint about your video, but on reflection I realize that was really unfair. I really appreciate that you're making the video, but both the other video and yours suffer greatly from including NO close-ups at all. What you're referring to is really hard to tell without a close-up.
Thanks for the feedback! You make a great point regarding close-ups and I will add them in any future videos I make.
Mine doesn’t turn on it s stop working I’m dead
What kind of keyboard?