Thank you, Pete, for this great video it saved my life! I bought the keyboard in the States and was shipped to me with other things, but the screen was dead. We tested it after using your video and found that the lamp was fine but was impossible to find in South Africa when we first thought that it was the bulb. After more testing, we found that the 300mV capacitor was gone, again no store in South Africa had one, only had 100mV. So plan Z I put a LED strip in the place of the lamp and it works. It's a little bit bright but after working on it on and off and a hundred phone calls, hours of searching online for over a month it's finally working. Very embarrassed to say that I did not listen when you said that we must put a few screws in and test it, I went ahead and put it together only to find that the screen was upside down. I put your video on again and redid the whole thing and it works great. Thank you very much, my friend. David Clement Cape Town-South Africa.
Thanks Pete - super helpful.Managed to change the display just with your video. Small point for anyone else - there are two ribbons connecting the keyboard section to the display/processor unit which Pete’s video clearly shows. There are also two cables; the first goes to just below the pitch and mod wheel and the second goes to just underneath the right hand switch above the pitch and mod wheels. On my unit the connectors on the processor had been fixed in place with a red glue so had to be disconnected from the other end. Lastly, suggest you turn up the display before reconnecting and re-inserting the screws as it is long winded to have to go back. Thanks again to Peter - the PC3 is a great keyboard with a poorly designed display so its great to be able to fix it.😀
Nice job Pete. Looking good 👍Remember ! The new display is LED backlit. That means none of the temperature problems associated with the old ccfl backlit display apply.
Thanks for this video. I was fortunate to get the LCD as replacement from Kurzweil support under guarantee and I did a similar procedure to replace. Kurzweil support rocks. Good to know there are other options available in market (LED screen).
Thank you for showing how to open the keyboard. I have one that boots up to a pure blue display only. Now I could open it up. Hade a look and cleaned the cable connectors, but sadly that was not the problem. Guess it is some component.
Was the pin-out for the new display the same as the old? I've got a new panel ready to go in but I haven't found a definitive answer to whether or not I need to reconfigure the pins. I'm afraid I'm going to blow the new display at power up.
Hey Pete, Thanks for this video! I noticed a thin grey two wire cable coming off of the new display. ( at 6:51 and 7:12 ) I didn't see you hook that up to anything. Is that possibly supposed to go where the other wires were cut in order to have brightness and contrast adjustability or ?
No. I ordered the display with brightness control, that's what the two grey wires are. They are hooked to the new brightness pot. Instead of drilling into the chassis I just set it to where I liked it and left it tywrapped inside the instrument. The original contrast pot still works as always. thanks for watching.
Pete, Thank you for the video. After having my display start going all wonky and displaying illegible garbage I was able to open it up and what I found was the red wire of the ribbon cable appears to have broken loose from the display board. I'm hoping and assuming this is the case as the wire was just hanging there with nothing "safe-ending" it and the board has an open pin on the connector. Might you have any thoughts or advice to fix this? I'm contemplating taking a soldering iron to it. Thanks
Which end of the cable is the problem? At 6:36 in my video you can clearly see the display end of the cable is connected, I'm not sure about the other end. If there is no pin where you want to connect to, I wouldn't. manufacturers use that to 'key' the orientation of the ribbon. Maybe look into the schematics if you can. Best of luck.
Thanks for the reply . I can clearly see in your video a 6:36 the display end and that your "red" wire is connected. Mine appears to have broken at that point. I think I will try to pull out the bad pin and reconnect the red wire
Be aware, besides the electronic modifications you have to make a mechanical adapter to fit the new display into the housing. You can ransack the old display, you just need the circuitboard as mounting plate. Bore new holes for the new display and use nylon standoffs for mounting. The new one is way lower and shorter. You need to bring it close to the window. EDIT: The link to the mastering vast forum has been deleted. This is where a discussion about it was done. Search for the forum, and then use the sentence "flashing display and questionable" - exactly these words to search for the thread. My postings are from 2020 including pictures.
@@Kaffimusic Thanks, I understand it's a bit involved! Is there a good guide somewhere with all of the steps and parts needed for the entire operation?
@@ShallRemainUnknown I had to write a how to... which I did not. Well, but you can go the same steps I did: Check the pictures closely how the contacts are set, how the modification looks and the parts used. The only things not in the picture are the trimpot for brightnesscontrol (it is at the end of the grey cable) and that adapterplade made from red plastic, including standoffs to make it fit mechanically. Just slaughter you original board, you have no use for it anyway, you need to drill some holes into it while feeling merciless to mount the standoffs and the new display on top of it. The grey ribboncable goes into the old connector and with the trimpot the juice is reduced to what the LEDs need. I soldered my cable directly pin for pin to the board. You need it to be very flat and can not use anything higher than what is in the picture as pre-manufactured parts. Or it won´t fit under the adaptorplate (which is the same format as the old circuitboard) This new display needs less energy than the old one.
@@Kaffimusic Thanks very much for all the useful info, and I'm sure many PC3-family users will benefit from your LCD upgrade installation guide once you get around to it! Cheers!
I have a Kurzweil PC3K8. If anybody can answer this question, please do. Does this video instruction work for the Kurzweil PC3K8 as well as this PC3? Any differences I would need to be aware of between the machines? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for this - clear and very helpful. I'm just fitting mine now, and have a question: on my board there is a pair of wires coming from the old display and soldered to the main board (one white, shown as "return", and the other blue, marked "hot"). I'm guessing these aren't needed on the new display, so can I just snip them and leave them?
Right, at 6:38 I show that you can cut these wires pretty closely and not replace them. They are not needed for the new led backlight. Thanks for watching.
I am just about to do this upgrade. Pete, does the adaptor that the new display bolts onto have to be steel or can it be aluminium or wood even. Steel may needed for shielding purposes. Not sure.
@@petehanratty950 Thanks Pete also for the video. It saved me time getting my Kurzweil apart. No I don't have the part as yet but it wont be mounted on the back bracket panel. I have already got a nice piece of aluminium 2mm tick and cut perfectly to size and drilled. It fits in perfectly where the old display was. When it arrives I just have to use spacers to mount it on this panel. Its not difficult.
Hi Pete, re the display do you have a part number or any reference number this being incase I need to order this part I have had no success looking on the ebay website you used. Kr from Wales . UK.
hi! i recently made a mistake switching the flat cable of the display with the another slot that is also in the mother board. now my display stopped working, it stays lit all the time, no video signal at all. do you have any clue on how to fix it? thanks
I've had a problem with my pitch bend wheel not centering properly, and I found out how to fix it this evening. Your video was helpful showing me how to remove the end cheek without undue worry. Tomorrow I'll make a video of me making the adjustment since I haven't found any other video showing this. This is a link to the PC3x service manual indicating the adjustment method. www.manualslib.com/manual/1114872/Kurzweil-Pc3x.html?page=63#manual
@@anco370 me either, but I looked on Reverb and found this reverb.com/item/6678440-graphic-display-upgrade-kurzweil-k2500-k2600-k2661-ksp8-rsp8-pc3-pc361.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you, Pete, for this great video it saved my life! I bought the keyboard in the States and was shipped to me with other things, but the screen was dead. We tested it after using your video and found that the lamp was fine but was impossible to find in South Africa when we first thought that it was the bulb. After more testing, we found that the 300mV capacitor was gone, again no store in South Africa had one, only had 100mV. So plan Z I put a LED strip in the place of the lamp and it works. It's a little bit bright but after working on it on and off and a hundred phone calls, hours of searching online for over a month it's finally working. Very embarrassed to say that I did not listen when you said that we must put a few screws in and test it, I went ahead and put it together only to find that the screen was upside down. I put your video on again and redid the whole thing and it works great. Thank you very much, my friend.
David Clement
Cape Town-South Africa.
Kim, This means a lot to me. You are the exact type of person that I did this video for! Thanks for your kind words. Glad I could help.
Thanks Pete - super helpful.Managed to change the display just with your video. Small point for anyone else - there are two ribbons connecting the keyboard section to the display/processor unit which Pete’s video clearly shows. There are also two cables; the first goes to just below the pitch and mod wheel and the second goes to just underneath the right hand switch above the pitch and mod wheels. On my unit the connectors on the processor had been fixed in place with a red glue so had to be disconnected from the other end. Lastly, suggest you turn up the display before reconnecting and re-inserting the screws as it is long winded to have to go back. Thanks again to Peter - the PC3 is a great keyboard with a poorly designed display so its great to be able to fix it.😀
Nice job Pete. Looking good 👍Remember ! The new display is LED backlit. That means none of the temperature problems associated with the old ccfl backlit display apply.
Thanks, glad you like it! Still working great.
Thanks! I was nervous, but this made the upgrade smooth and relatively easy.
Excellent job Pete. Excellent tutorial I need to replace the volume control, this has paved the way on how to get access. Thanks for posting.
glad to be of help
Thank-you for posting this👏👏👏 … changed mine out last week and 100% accurate. Greatly appreciated!
Thanks for this video. I was fortunate to get the LCD as replacement from Kurzweil support under guarantee and I did a similar procedure to replace. Kurzweil support rocks. Good to know there are other options available in market (LED screen).
Thanks for posting this! These directions work with the screens still available on Reverb from the seller in Wales.
Thanks, that's great to know!
An excellent video - very clear instructions.
Please leave a comment. Sorry for the shaky camera work in some places. Tried to make this as short as possible without leaving major steps out.
Thank you for showing how to open the keyboard. I have one that boots up to a pure blue display only. Now I could open it up. Hade a look and cleaned the cable connectors, but sadly that was not the problem. Guess it is some component.
Was the pin-out for the new display the same as the old? I've got a new panel ready to go in but I haven't found a definitive answer to whether or not I need to reconfigure the pins. I'm afraid I'm going to blow the new display at power up.
My replacement part was a direct match pin for pin. Actually I didn't check that before connecting, I just plugged it in.
Hey Pete, Thanks for this video! I noticed a thin grey two wire cable coming off of the new display. ( at 6:51 and 7:12 ) I didn't see you hook that up to anything.
Is that possibly supposed to go where the other wires were cut in order to have brightness and contrast adjustability or ?
No. I ordered the display with brightness control, that's what the two grey wires are. They are hooked to the new brightness pot. Instead of drilling into the chassis I just set it to where I liked it and left it tywrapped inside the instrument. The original contrast pot still works as always. thanks for watching.
Pete, Thank you for the video. After having my display start going all wonky and displaying illegible garbage I was able to open it up and what I found was the red wire of the ribbon cable appears to have broken loose from the display board. I'm hoping and assuming this is the case as the wire was just hanging there with nothing "safe-ending" it and the board has an open pin on the connector. Might you have any thoughts or advice to fix this? I'm contemplating taking a soldering iron to it. Thanks
Which end of the cable is the problem? At 6:36 in my video you can clearly see the display end of the cable is connected, I'm not sure about the other end. If there is no pin where you want to connect to, I wouldn't. manufacturers use that to 'key' the orientation of the ribbon. Maybe look into the schematics if you can. Best of luck.
Thanks for the reply . I can clearly see in your video a 6:36 the display end and that your "red" wire is connected. Mine appears to have broken at that point. I think I will try to pull out the bad pin and reconnect the red wire
hello, what is the model of this new led display? thank you
The replacement display costs around 25-30,-EUR or Dollar. When you are able to modify it on your own, you easily save even more money.
Could you please give any direction in how to modify a standard $20-30 LCD for a PC3 or provide a link to the info?
Be aware, besides the electronic modifications you have to make a mechanical adapter to fit the new display into the housing. You can ransack the old display, you just need the circuitboard as mounting plate. Bore new holes for the new display and use nylon standoffs for mounting. The new one is way lower and shorter. You need to bring it close to the window. EDIT: The link to the mastering vast forum has been deleted. This is where a discussion about it was done. Search for the forum, and then use the sentence "flashing display and questionable" - exactly these words to search for the thread. My postings are from 2020 including pictures.
@@Kaffimusic Thanks, I understand it's a bit involved! Is there a good guide somewhere with all of the steps and parts needed for the entire operation?
@@ShallRemainUnknown I had to write a how to... which I did not. Well, but you can go the same steps I did: Check the pictures closely how the contacts are set, how the modification looks and the parts used. The only things not in the picture are the trimpot for brightnesscontrol (it is at the end of the grey cable) and that adapterplade made from red plastic, including standoffs to make it fit mechanically. Just slaughter you original board, you have no use for it anyway, you need to drill some holes into it while feeling merciless to mount the standoffs and the new display on top of it. The grey ribboncable goes into the old connector and with the trimpot the juice is reduced to what the LEDs need. I soldered my cable directly pin for pin to the board. You need it to be very flat and can not use anything higher than what is in the picture as pre-manufactured parts. Or it won´t fit under the adaptorplate (which is the same format as the old circuitboard) This new display needs less energy than the old one.
@@Kaffimusic Thanks very much for all the useful info, and I'm sure many PC3-family users will benefit from your LCD upgrade installation guide once you get around to it! Cheers!
I have a Kurzweil PC3K8. If anybody can answer this question, please do. Does this video instruction work for the Kurzweil PC3K8 as well as this PC3? Any differences I would need to be aware of between the machines? Thanks in advance.
I don't have a K8 to compare it to, so I will not guess. Hoping someone knows.
Thanks for this - clear and very helpful. I'm just fitting mine now, and have a question: on my board there is a pair of wires coming from the old display and soldered to the main board (one white, shown as "return", and the other blue, marked "hot"). I'm guessing these aren't needed on the new display, so can I just snip them and leave them?
Sorry, spotted the answer ("yes") on my second viewing!
Right, at 6:38 I show that you can cut these wires pretty closely and not replace them. They are not needed for the new led backlight. Thanks for watching.
I am just about to do this upgrade. Pete, does the adaptor that the new display bolts onto have to be steel or can it be aluminium or wood even. Steel may needed for shielding purposes. Not sure.
Hi, the part I received was already mounted. I didn't have to add anything. I'm not sure I can answer properly. Do you have the new part already?
You can see the old and new parts at 6:58. They are different but the new one fits!
@@petehanratty950 Thanks Pete also for the video. It saved me time getting my Kurzweil apart. No I don't have the part as yet but it wont be mounted on the back bracket panel. I have already got a nice piece of aluminium 2mm tick and cut perfectly to size and drilled. It fits in perfectly where the old display was. When it arrives I just have to use spacers to mount it on this panel. Its not difficult.
where do i buy the LCD?, please
a google search found this. reverb.com/item/6678440-graphic-display-upgrade-kurzweil-k2500-k2600-k2661-ksp8-rsp8-pc3-pc361
Hi Pete, re the display do you have a part number or any reference number this being incase I need to order this part I have had no success looking on the ebay website you used. Kr from Wales . UK.
look on ebay for luxdisplays seller, message him if you want something specific
hi! i recently made a mistake switching the flat cable of the display with the another slot that is also in the mother board. now my display stopped working, it stays lit all the time, no video signal at all. do you have any clue on how to fix it? thanks
Sadly, no, sorry. Probably a call to Kurzweil support.
@@petehanratty950 ok thanks anyway
Where do I buy the Kurzweil PC3 LED screen?
Search on eBay for "Kurzweil PC3 display" you should be able to find it. Sold by luxmuzik
Thanks for information
the display heats up more than the old one?
I haven't noticed that. It's been in my kb for a couple of weeks now with daily use.
Damn I miss that LINEAR PSU, my forte sucks.
My screen crapped out and we’re going on tour in three months, and wouldn’t you know it the one guy who makes these is “on vacation” arghhhhhhhhh
I've had a problem with my pitch bend wheel not centering properly, and I found out how to fix it this evening. Your video was helpful showing me how to remove the end cheek without undue worry. Tomorrow I'll make a video of me making the adjustment since I haven't found any other video showing this. This is a link to the PC3x service manual indicating the adjustment method. www.manualslib.com/manual/1114872/Kurzweil-Pc3x.html?page=63#manual
Great!! Glad to be of help.
The ebay sellers name is now luxdisplays
I can't find this seller
@@anco370 me either, but I looked on Reverb and found this reverb.com/item/6678440-graphic-display-upgrade-kurzweil-k2500-k2600-k2661-ksp8-rsp8-pc3-pc361.
I just found this online site, maybe useful www.backlightsonline.com/