Great work. Like you I've always replaced the capstan motor SMD's with through hole types for their seeming longer service life but have always mounted them flat on the PCB, not standing up. The reason is that unlike the lower profile SMD's the through holes now stand well proud of the rear of the MKIII chassis and in with the mech lying on its back, the mech is actually resting on the caps and there's a big risk the caps will be ripped off the PCB and rip the copper tracks off as well. Not a problem on the MKII as the chassis extends further back and protects the longer caps.
Hello and congratulations for the video. At minute 1:07:03, in your left hand you have the wheel, where there are 5 silver bands, and 5 black bands. The 5 black bands came off for me (when cleaning), so I have a silver finish all over. How can I redo the 5 black bars? Thanks, Orlando.
Hi, I keep watching your videos. At minute 16:36, capacitors C12 and C14, which capacitors did you use? Everyone else has the right negative and positive pole? Thanks, Orlando.
Waaaou, good job. Could you describe me what sort of grease you use and what for, and also for deoxit product... I'm not american so deoxit could be equialent in France. Do you think it's a good and reliable mécanic ?
Une recherche rapide indique que DeoxIT est disponible en Europe. Lubrifiant Fader pour les potentiomètres et D5 pour les commutateurs. Pour les pièces en plastique, n'importe quelle graisse synthétique NLGI 0-1 devrait fonctionner, je ne connais pas les équivalents DIN. Merci d'avoir regardé!
@@asbcustom Merci pour ta réponse rapide. Tu nettoies les pièces en métal dans de l'isopropanol ? Je possède 3 machines et je vais un jour, les faire recaper et nettoyer entièrement la mécanique, ta vidéo est vraiment une aide précieuse...et en plus tu parles français !
@@asbcustom Ahhh, esta bien. Te conoces muy bien estos TASCAM, tengo un 122MK2 y te tengo una pregunta, cual consideras que es mejor el MK2 o MK3, yo estoy muy contento con mi MK2 pero siempre me hago esa pregunta. Otra pregunta conoces los TEAC C-1 MK2, C-2X y C-3X son muy parecidos a estos TASCAM en su apariencia de construcción. Siempre te sigo con tus video.
@@zambrano966 El mk2 es el mejor deck y sí, la serie C3 también es excelente, son básicamente un 122 que también está muy bien hecho y tiene un gran sonido.
@@asbcustom I misunderstood. But anyway, I must say I keep learning a lot every day, from you both (ASB Custom & hifirulezzz). You are (both) like an endangered species. Nobody, nowadays, does work with such precision and attention to detail! I'm addicted to your videos! Always excellent services that have helped me in the attempt to recover my 1978 Technics RS-641. Thank you for your help.
Good vid, I have 2 122 mkii on the way. I will be doing the caps and usual upkeep. I never tried the wire snips to remove them before. I have pushed down with a twist with pliers and they come off ok, Id like to try your method, but i was afraid the pad would lift because the wire snips have a curved surface and as you pinch under the cap wouldnt it naturally lift the cap upwards as you closed the business end of the snips? Maybe my physics and mechanics brain is overthinking. 😆
I can see where you might think that, yes. I have a much more detailed video of the procedure here: ruclips.net/video/37AnK1d5OlY/видео.html. I use small, flush cutters, and engage them into the crimp on the capacitor body. You're correct that a larger tool, placed on the PCB, would lift the pads right off, every time. I never touch the board with the cutters.
@@asbcustom Ah, yes i watched the video and im glad i did. I thought you were getting under the cap and clipping against the board. Thats why i was wondering about the lift issue. Youre cutting into the cap which makes sense now. Thanks for clarifying that, because i was pondering on not doing the twist off this next time around. Its good fun working on these, but i find myself sweating like im defusing an unexploded bomb. 😂
Hello sir ; Hope you dont mind me asking ? I have a tascam 122 Mk 3 Had it since new. Had used it sparingly previously. And then the unit just sat. I found some old cassettes and was going to bump them over to at least a CD. I fired up the tascam Mk 3 And immediately The (green)play button The (orange) pause button The (red) record button began to flash simultaneously Exact time and speed Loaded cassette in pressed play nothing. Shut of machine Turned back on And still flashing and does nothing Could you tell me if your familiar with that flashing ? Is it a code or warning lights that tascam uses to indicate a specific common problem ? Left machine plugged in for a while with those 3 lights still flashing. Still does nothing even after warm up. I hit reverse and forward and play button watching the cassette tape and it ever so SLIGHTY managed to move enough to take up a little loose slack of tape. I barely noticed it. Any thoughts ? Thank you for listening Fran My guess is direct drive motor? Also guess the 3 lights flashing indicates power problem or motor/electric jam in drive motor. But thats just a guess Ive had it since new and its in great shape physically Not worth much as is ? But seems a sin not to repair it to keep or sell
Thank you for watching. Your flashing lights are indicative of a broken "C" gear. This is a known maintenance item on this machine and well documented, I've included its repair in several videos. It could possibly be other control errors but this is by far the most common. It’s definitely worth repairing, these are great decks and will last generations if cared for. All the best.
hi have a tascam 238 the man before me had done work the servo pcb was to bad to save i changed the cap still did not work right you know there a tascam with a belt drive i have to move the tec over to get my 238 working again room to get a motor in and a clean up in side the deck works ace and there a big speed range of speeds now i used a 4000 rpm motor it can j 7 1/2 ips and can't get 1 7/8 ips bob
if you could add text or voice comments on what exactly you are doing at each stage… that is unless you cater to existing tascam enthusiasts only who probably already know what you are doing
Great work. Like you I've always replaced the capstan motor SMD's with through hole types for their seeming longer service life but have always mounted them flat on the PCB, not standing up. The reason is that unlike the lower profile SMD's the through holes now stand well proud of the rear of the MKIII chassis and in with the mech lying on its back, the mech is actually resting on the caps and there's a big risk the caps will be ripped off the PCB and rip the copper tracks off as well. Not a problem on the MKII as the chassis extends further back and protects the longer caps.
Indeed yes, those corroded tracks can fall off even by just speaking harshly to them.
Amazing job 👏👏👏
Thank you!
Excellent new video, thanks! 🍷
Thanks Vlad!
Hello and congratulations for the video.
At minute 1:07:03, in your left hand you have the wheel, where there are 5 silver bands, and 5 black bands.
The 5 black bands came off for me (when cleaning), so I have a silver finish all over. How can I redo the 5 black bars? Thanks, Orlando.
You will have to paint those back in. Flat black model paint should do the trick.
very nice, i follow you and waiting for the next parts. At time i restore also a MK III. GOOD WORK👍🏻
Thank you for watching, good luck with your restoration!
Hi, I keep watching your videos.
At minute 16:36, capacitors C12 and C14, which capacitors did you use?
Everyone else has the right negative and positive pole?
Thanks, Orlando.
These are bipolar.
So noti polarized? Thank you.
So noti polarized? Thank you.
Waaaou, good job. Could you describe me what sort of grease you use and what for, and also for deoxit product... I'm not american so deoxit could be equialent in France. Do you think it's a good and reliable mécanic ?
Une recherche rapide indique que DeoxIT est disponible en Europe. Lubrifiant Fader pour les potentiomètres et D5 pour les commutateurs. Pour les pièces en plastique, n'importe quelle graisse synthétique NLGI 0-1 devrait fonctionner, je ne connais pas les équivalents DIN.
Merci d'avoir regardé!
@@asbcustom
Merci pour ta réponse rapide. Tu nettoies les pièces en métal dans de l'isopropanol ? Je possède 3 machines et je vais un jour, les faire recaper et nettoyer entièrement la mécanique, ta vidéo est vraiment une aide précieuse...et en plus tu parles français !
Oui, isopropanol et ultrasons. Bonne chance sur vos ponts et merci d'avoir regardé!
Excelente, pero no instalaste el cabezal de borrado ?
No lo hice, era para probar la unidad y solo necesitaba el cabezal de reproducción. Gracias por ver.
@@asbcustom Ahhh, esta bien. Te conoces muy bien estos TASCAM, tengo un 122MK2 y te tengo una pregunta, cual consideras que es mejor el MK2 o MK3, yo estoy muy contento con mi MK2 pero siempre me hago esa pregunta. Otra pregunta conoces los TEAC C-1 MK2, C-2X y C-3X son muy parecidos a estos TASCAM en su apariencia de construcción. Siempre te sigo con tus video.
@@zambrano966 El mk2 es el mejor deck y sí, la serie C3 también es excelente, son básicamente un 122 que también está muy bien hecho y tiene un gran sonido.
Great video. Just one question. Why don't you just use surface mount capacitor? Hard to buy? Many thanks.
Thank you for watching. I have used surface mounts but I seem to get better stability with through-holes.
@@asbcustom I heard of that as well. Maybe I should try these through-hole capacitors as well.
25:15 - It verks, it's verking! 😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆naughty, naughty😉😉😉😉
I think I flushed out an AVE fan ;-)
@@asbcustom Do you mean hifirulezzz ?
Oh no, I was quoting AVE but it verks either way I guess: www.youtube.com/@arduinoversusevil2025/videos
@@asbcustom I misunderstood. But anyway, I must say I keep learning a lot every day, from you both (ASB Custom & hifirulezzz). You are (both) like an endangered species. Nobody, nowadays, does work with such precision and attention to detail! I'm addicted to your videos! Always excellent services that have helped me in the attempt to recover my 1978 Technics RS-641. Thank you for your help.
Good vid, I have 2 122 mkii on the way. I will be doing the caps and usual upkeep. I never tried the wire snips to remove them before. I have pushed down with a twist with pliers and they come off ok, Id like to try your method, but i was afraid the pad would lift because the wire snips have a curved surface and as you pinch under the cap wouldnt it naturally lift the cap upwards as you closed the business end of the snips? Maybe my physics and mechanics brain is overthinking. 😆
I can see where you might think that, yes. I have a much more detailed video of the procedure here: ruclips.net/video/37AnK1d5OlY/видео.html. I use small, flush cutters, and engage them into the crimp on the capacitor body. You're correct that a larger tool, placed on the PCB, would lift the pads right off, every time. I never touch the board with the cutters.
@@asbcustom Ah, yes i watched the video and im glad i did. I thought you were getting under the cap and clipping against the board. Thats why i was wondering about the lift issue. Youre cutting into the cap which makes sense now. Thanks for clarifying that, because i was pondering on not doing the twist off this next time around. Its good fun working on these, but i find myself sweating like im defusing an unexploded bomb. 😂
Ha!
Hello sir ;
Hope you dont mind me asking ? I have a tascam 122 Mk 3
Had it since new.
Had used it sparingly previously.
And then the unit just sat.
I found some old cassettes and was going to bump them over to at least a CD.
I fired up the tascam Mk 3
And immediately
The (green)play button
The (orange) pause button
The (red) record button began to flash simultaneously
Exact time and speed
Loaded cassette in pressed play nothing.
Shut of machine
Turned back on
And still flashing and does nothing
Could you tell me if your familiar with that flashing ?
Is it a code or warning lights that tascam uses to indicate a specific common problem ?
Left machine plugged in for a while with those 3 lights still flashing.
Still does nothing even after warm up.
I hit reverse and forward and play button watching the cassette tape and it ever so SLIGHTY managed to move enough to take up a little loose slack of tape. I barely noticed it.
Any thoughts ?
Thank you for listening
Fran
My guess is direct drive motor?
Also guess the 3 lights flashing indicates power problem or motor/electric jam in drive motor. But thats just a guess
Ive had it since new and its in great shape physically
Not worth much as is ?
But seems a sin not to repair it to keep or sell
Thank you for watching.
Your flashing lights are indicative of a broken "C" gear. This is a known maintenance item on this machine and well documented, I've included its repair in several videos. It could possibly be other control errors but this is by far the most common. It’s definitely worth repairing, these are great decks and will last generations if cared for.
All the best.
hi have a tascam 238 the man before me had done work the servo pcb was to bad to save i changed the cap still did not work right
you know there a tascam with a belt drive i have to move the tec over to get my 238 working again room to get a motor in and a clean up in side
the deck works ace and there a big speed range of speeds now i used a 4000 rpm motor it can j 7 1/2 ips and can't get 1 7/8 ips
bob
if you could add text or voice comments on what exactly you are doing at each stage… that is unless you cater to existing tascam enthusiasts only who probably already know what you are doing
This is just a documentation of how I how do things, not a tutorial on how anyone else should do things. Thank you for watching!