Awesome stick and your fingernails are on point. Bro! As a temporary way to fix your player LED light, if you take one of these standard 5 pen wire harnesses for the brook board player led and just inserted a regular 3.3 mm led into the voltage and player one line. it will light up and let you know when the system is on. I had to do that for my Mad Catz te2.
@@siegarettes Sure! So when you're looking at the board with the USB port sticking to your right. The 5 pin connector Port right next to the 20 pin header is your player led lines. It should be from left to right VCC, 1, 2, 3, 4. It should say what the pinout is on the bottom half of the board. Are you need to do is connect the long leg of an LED to the voltage and the short leg to the 1 pin. you can either solder it to the top or the bottom of the board. Or do like I did and use a connector cable and literally just slide the legs of the LED into the connector. you want to cut the legs a little short so they don't stick out the other side though. You really only need one. But you can actually go up to all 4. you just take the first led and install it like normal except you don't cut the long leg. you just let it pass all the way through the connector. you then answer the short leg of the other LEDs into the corresponding sockets for 2 3 and 4. and you just take all the long legs and literary twist them tight together with the first one that's sticking through. it will safely power all of them. just trim them short and wrap it with electrical tape and you're good to go.
@@siegarettes also thank you for showing me how to wirelessly sync my stick to other adapters. That makes my life so much easier!!! It's like I can finally use my stick with Sega Saturn Bluetooth adapters when retro-bit or 8bitdo finally drops them lol
@@ForeverWinter1812 yeah when I first saw the board that was one of my immediate questions, since I use those adapters for so many things. thankfully JonyFraze was able to check that ahead of time for me and confirm it was an option. and I can only hope we get the Saturn adapter next. we need a Saturn revival.
@@siegarettes What were some issues you faced? I actually just finished my first build a few days ago! I used this video and a couple others as a guide to help me out so 1 million thank yous 🙏 I also used a wireless brook pcb and my biggest issue was throwing out the jumpers shunts because I thought they were useless pin protectors. Boy was I wrong
@@Ryamix oh yeah i thought the shunts were useless too and was bewildered when it malfunctioned all over. most of the problems were that the acrylic didnt deal with drilling well, and i didnt have a great drill bit either, so it cracked a lot. plus, this is about as small as you can go before you have no space.
Try using a latching push button switch that has a LED built into it. They're SPST like normal tournament lockout switches but you could get one with a 3.3v LED built-in that you can hook up directly to the battery instead, to function as a battery cutoff and a indicator light for when the board is on. You could have your normal lockout switch too, but I think this board specifically needs a battery cutoff switch. And I think this board doesn't light up the player LEDs while in wireless mode, so this would probably be the only way to have an on/off indicator. It'll also let you keep it wired only for tournament settings. Look up" 3V LED metal latching push button switch" on eBay to see what I'm talking about, the one I got was 14mm mounting dia with 3-6V LED. Some of them have the option for NC, NO, GND; but most smaller ones are NO, GND; plus the +, - for the LED, so there's 5 pin or 4 pin options but either will work.
you can also attach a power bank to the usb-b port and it will resolve some of the issues. power bank will .. - give you more battery millage - LED lights will work - fightstick on/off status visible via LED lights just install a decent slim power bank (10000ma etc)
Sir Charles this appears like a great solution would you have a diagrams or illustration for how to wire the LED lash button to the brook wireless and battery?
Thank you so much, you answered my question regarding LED, I wanted to have a way of knowing if the device has sync, and also I wanted to know when the device is on or off. I suppose I cannot. Please, where did you buy your breakout button (is that how they call it in the store?), and where would it plug on the brooks wireless board? if I understand, did you take out the original PS button and put the breakout instead? @siegarettes
I know this video is pretty old at this point, but what did you use to build that case and how did you do it. Both of those clear acrylic hitboxes you showed off looked really great. Also, this is a dope review. Hopefully I'll avoid pitfalls as I make my 1st custom stick.
I got a large project box off Amazon with a clear lid and very slowly drilled holes in it with a power drill after printing out and aligning a template on top of the case. you'll need some kind of hole saw bit (24mm and 30mm), a lot of patience, some luck and sandpaper to smooth out the edges. I also recommend getting some cheap plastic or wood to try it out on first to get a feel.
Thanks for the video, and pointing out that it works with the 8bitdo receivers! That makes it compatible with Genesis while the Brooks retro board is not. I’m thinking of putting one in the Hori RAP V for Switch. Since it doesn’t have spare 24mm holes I guess I need to drill for the USB and possibly antenna? (or put antenna where current USB cord comes out)
you'll def need a hole for the usb, since it has a custom passthrough for audio. you might get away with leaving the antenna inside the case, but it might cut down the range a little
the battery might be dead, or you might have started it up in ps3 mode instead of ps4 mode. if you got to the brook support page for the board you can find a manual that lists what buttons to hold when powering up to change to ps4 mode.
Hi, Could you confirm if it’s possible to power on the ps4 with the wireless fighting board PS button ? I mean power on, not leaving the stand by mode. Thank you.
after you sync it the first time you can power it on with the home button. i've accidentally turned on my ps4 too many times when throwing it into the bag.
sadly you can't for this one since it uses a custom breakout board for audio and data. the USB B on this one is only to power it through a portable power supply, like a phone.
Wondering if you wired in a 5V DC Buck Converter to + and - of J9 and take the VOUT to the 5V pin of the usb header J1-2 if the system would still work and you would get 5V to all the 5V pins. www.robotshop.com/ca/en/5v-step-up-voltage-regulator-u3v12f5.html
Alternately you could wire up a second battery with a buck converter and charging protector and you attach to J1-2. This way the battery will also charge while plugged into external usb source. ruclips.net/video/Fj0XuYiE7HU/видео.html
Awesome stick and your fingernails are on point. Bro!
As a temporary way to fix your player LED light, if you take one of these standard 5 pen wire harnesses for the brook board player led and just inserted a regular 3.3 mm led into the voltage and player one line. it will light up and let you know when the system is on. I had to do that for my Mad Catz te2.
yoooo that's a good idea, I'll try that!
could you clarify what you mean by player one line tho? is that one of the LED control pins?
@@siegarettes Sure! So when you're looking at the board with the USB port sticking to your right. The 5 pin connector Port right next to the 20 pin header is your player led lines. It should be from left to right VCC, 1, 2, 3, 4. It should say what the pinout is on the bottom half of the board. Are you need to do is connect the long leg of an LED to the voltage and the short leg to the 1 pin. you can either solder it to the top or the bottom of the board. Or do like I did and use a connector cable and literally just slide the legs of the LED into the connector. you want to cut the legs a little short so they don't stick out the other side though. You really only need one. But you can actually go up to all 4. you just take the first led and install it like normal except you don't cut the long leg. you just let it pass all the way through the connector. you then answer the short leg of the other LEDs into the corresponding sockets for 2 3 and 4. and you just take all the long legs and literary twist them tight together with the first one that's sticking through. it will safely power all of them. just trim them short and wrap it with electrical tape and you're good to go.
@@siegarettes also thank you for showing me how to wirelessly sync my stick to other adapters. That makes my life so much easier!!! It's like I can finally use my stick with Sega Saturn Bluetooth adapters when retro-bit or 8bitdo finally drops them lol
@@ForeverWinter1812 sweet! this was very detailed and helpful! I'll go try that out and be back with any updates!
@@ForeverWinter1812 yeah when I first saw the board that was one of my immediate questions, since I use those adapters for so many things. thankfully JonyFraze was able to check that ahead of time for me and confirm it was an option.
and I can only hope we get the Saturn adapter next. we need a Saturn revival.
i agree with you, man. great review and upfront with from the start.
Jeesus christ that case you built is goddamn gorgeous 😍
thank you! i'm glad it turned out well. it was also a big pain in the ass i never want to do it again.
@@siegarettes What were some issues you faced? I actually just finished my first build a few days ago! I used this video and a couple others as a guide to help me out so 1 million thank yous 🙏
I also used a wireless brook pcb and my biggest issue was throwing out the jumpers shunts because I thought they were useless pin protectors. Boy was I wrong
@@Ryamix oh yeah i thought the shunts were useless too and was bewildered when it malfunctioned all over.
most of the problems were that the acrylic didnt deal with drilling well, and i didnt have a great drill bit either, so it cracked a lot.
plus, this is about as small as you can go before you have no space.
Okay so once you made the first pair with the pc, how do you find it again? I have to remove device just to get it to work again wirelessly
Try using a latching push button switch that has a LED built into it. They're SPST like normal tournament lockout switches but you could get one with a 3.3v LED built-in that you can hook up directly to the battery instead, to function as a battery cutoff and a indicator light for when the board is on.
You could have your normal lockout switch too, but I think this board specifically needs a battery cutoff switch. And I think this board doesn't light up the player LEDs while in wireless mode, so this would probably be the only way to have an on/off indicator. It'll also let you keep it wired only for tournament settings.
Look up" 3V LED metal latching push button switch" on eBay to see what I'm talking about, the one I got was 14mm mounting dia with 3-6V LED. Some of them have the option for NC, NO, GND; but most smaller ones are NO, GND; plus the +, - for the LED, so there's 5 pin or 4 pin options but either will work.
you can also attach a power bank to the usb-b port and it will resolve some of the issues. power bank will ..
- give you more battery millage
- LED lights will work
- fightstick on/off status visible via LED lights
just install a decent slim power bank (10000ma etc)
Sir Charles this appears like a great solution would you have a diagrams or illustration for how to wire the LED lash button to the brook wireless and battery?
Thank you so much, you answered my question regarding LED, I wanted to have a way of knowing if the device has sync, and also I wanted to know when the device is on or off. I suppose I cannot. Please, where did you buy your breakout button (is that how they call it in the store?), and where would it plug on the brooks wireless board? if I understand, did you take out the original PS button and put the breakout instead? @siegarettes
Thus far I found this on focusattack shop 'Mini Round 3-Pin SPDT ON-OFF Rocker Switch - Black' is that it?
I know this video is pretty old at this point, but what did you use to build that case and how did you do it. Both of those clear acrylic hitboxes you showed off looked really great. Also, this is a dope review. Hopefully I'll avoid pitfalls as I make my 1st custom stick.
I got a large project box off Amazon with a clear lid and very slowly drilled holes in it with a power drill after printing out and aligning a template on top of the case.
you'll need some kind of hole saw bit (24mm and 30mm), a lot of patience, some luck and sandpaper to smooth out the edges. I also recommend getting some cheap plastic or wood to try it out on first to get a feel.
Thanks for the video, and pointing out that it works with the 8bitdo receivers! That makes it compatible with Genesis while the Brooks retro board is not.
I’m thinking of putting one in the Hori RAP V for Switch. Since it doesn’t have spare 24mm holes I guess I need to drill for the USB and possibly antenna? (or put antenna where current USB cord comes out)
you'll def need a hole for the usb, since it has a custom passthrough for audio. you might get away with leaving the antenna inside the case, but it might cut down the range a little
Does someone have an illustration of how the Break out on off switch was connected to the battery and I suppose the PS button?
So once connected to pc I don't need to put DS4windows software
so confused right now. Mine works in usb mode, pairs wirelessly to ps3, but won't go into bluetooth pairing mode.
the battery might be dead, or you might have started it up in ps3 mode instead of ps4 mode. if you got to the brook support page for the board you can find a manual that lists what buttons to hold when powering up to change to ps4 mode.
hi @siegarettes. the case is nice. do you mind sharing where you got it from? Thanks
I made it myself.
Hi, Could you confirm if it’s possible to power on the ps4 with the wireless fighting board PS button ? I mean power on, not leaving the stand by mode. Thank you.
after you sync it the first time you can power it on with the home button. i've accidentally turned on my ps4 too many times when throwing it into the bag.
@@siegarettes thanks ! It’s to put the ps4 into an arcade cabinet so i don’t want to open it to power on the console. :)
after i connect via usb to my switch, I unplug and turn it on (with 1k held) and it tries to connect to my ps4...
so through the usb b i wonder can i install a usb c connector and run it that way when wired? Id prefer to make all future sticks usb type c.
sadly you can't for this one since it uses a custom breakout board for audio and data.
the USB B on this one is only to power it through a portable power supply, like a phone.
@@siegarettes I wasn't gonna use the audio port, I wanted to not use that connection but I think I'll just buy a custom cord with a breakaway
what size is this project box?
10.4x7.2 inches.
it's a little snug tho so I'd probably go an inch up or so if you want to have an easier time assembling it
Does it work with Raspberry-pi? (Recalbox)
Wondering if you wired in a 5V DC Buck Converter to + and - of J9 and take the VOUT to the 5V pin of the usb header J1-2 if the system would still work and you would get 5V to all the 5V pins. www.robotshop.com/ca/en/5v-step-up-voltage-regulator-u3v12f5.html
Alternately you could wire up a second battery with a buck converter and charging protector and you attach to J1-2. This way the battery will also charge while plugged into external usb source. ruclips.net/video/Fj0XuYiE7HU/видео.html