WHY ARE MY LOW LIGHT FUJI FILES SO TERRIBLE?
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- Опубликовано: 18 дек 2018
- WHY THE HECK ARE MY LOW LIGHT FUJI JPEGS SO WAXY?
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In this video we will discuss some low light jpeg shooting tips.
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![Setting up your Fuji X T20 and get ready to SHOOT! [Scary Content at 6:31. Not for kids]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/btstChh41Ug/mqdefault.jpg)
![Setting up your Fuji X T20 and get ready to SHOOT! [Scary Content at 6:31. Not for kids]](/img/tr.png)
Share your TERRIBLE JPEGS stories or advice in the comments below! Thanks guys!
Omar Gonzalez Photography few years back I meet with my wife for shooting a dance performance at Bellas Artes Santurce PR. I was at another location with my Fuji XT2 and she supposed to bring the Canons 1DX mkii for the performance. Then she showed up with her sister (😩). I got to my reserved area, took my equipment and when I do the check up..... Only 1/3 of power on the cameras. My wife and her sister had used them and didn’t charged it, and to make things worst she forgot the extra 2 batteries at home and left them charging. So I used my Canons until they died and the Fuji when I ran out of juice, (keep in mind that was the Fuji with old firmware). I had to shoot between 3200 and 6400 raw of course, but it was the most horrible red back lit stage!!!! Horror, mate, I’m still hurting; my rate with the Fuji under those conditions were 4-10 a nightmare!!!! Lol my wife felt soooo bad, she still feels bad about it.
julio hernandez oh MAN!! I’ve been there with the hopeless single bar of battery. Thanks for sharing Julio.
feels like we all need default noise reduction to -2 at least... as it doesn't really hurt with lower ISO. thanks for the tips! will play with it.
Omar you are the greatest! Thank you for all your content! Happy holidays my friend!
Hi Omar, much the same applies to Fujifilm raw files in as much as the noise levels appear rather bad in areas of low exposure, this is due to the signal to noise ratio being a fixed property of the sensor and only those parts of the picture having maximum exposure will enjoy the best signal to noise ratio. This means that you have to adjust the exposure of the shot to maximise the levels on the parts of the shot that you want to see, this might mean that some parts of the shot could be over-exposed, bright areas and sky, I am finding that setting my exposure compensation to plus 1 stop, or more will give me much less noise in shadow areas, the histogram on the viewfinder will show blinkies on the Jpeg thumbnail but no blown highlights on the raw file, the is the practice know as ETTR, expose to the right, and is particularly appropriate to Fujifilm cameras. Cheers, Richard.
This comment is the correct answer to the problem raised and how come no one is responding? I thank you for the great tip!
thanks so much will try this
Highly appreciated. If I just knew this last week!.. Had a tennis tournament where half of the court was in really deep shadow! JPEGs were like.... yes that bad!
On top I need SS no lower than 2000, I think this type of condition really pushes the XT3 envelope...or assume that there is no 'suits everything camera' and find another (more expensive) solution!
Thanks Omar for bringing in the subject and Richard for the follow up. The best solution at the time was just to spot metering instead of average. Changing to the other side of the court the camera would go like crazy because of pretty sunny!!! What an experience! Cheers
@@carlosdias1940 Hi Carlos Dias, So glad to be helpful!, I think spot metering will help you but the system reacts very strongly, one more stable option is the set the exposure compensation dial two thirds to one stop high!, if you combine this with 'blinkies' where over-exposed areas light up as long as those areas have nothing you really want to be seen in the image slight movements of the camera while shooting won't have such a dramatic effect on exposure. These techniques take quite a long time to learn and develop to your satisfaction but basically what you are looking for is images that you want to dial down the exposure slightly in post, that will then give the darker areas the exposure you want with the improved SN ratio!. Cheers, Richard.
@@richardharvey1732 Thank you Richard for a swift and thorough reply! Yes! Noticed how 'sensitive' the spot metering reacts on the field! I think I got the picture and that is really appreciated, just by pointing me the direction. Actually I was doing the opposite. Stopping down to work after on post. For sure that I will give it a go.
Just a thought: I shoot in manual, meaning front dial in C, Set 5, SS2500 above for tennis. So far as I tried Exposure compensation is only available when in Aperture priority...agree? I stop (up or down) using ISO as the first priority to toggle down asap for the obvious reasons.
I always get that weird look from a couple of friends, why I'm shooting sports with FUJI, when other brands nail every shot. I don't know about that, however, what I do is not to blame on the gear and usually if focus fails (specially after V4 update) is because I have the wrong settings!!!
Cheers and your help is really appreciated. Willing to follow on IG if you would be able to share. Cheers
What about the sharpness setting Omar? I tend to keep that at -4 as well, but I have no clue if that does anything to improve the jpeg, since I always use raw files.
Yes, -4 NR all the way! I found this has made a huge impact on on my jpegs. Rather have noise and natural look than wax statues :D
Hi do you keep all your setting on NR -4? I take jpeg and raw, but use jpeg as my starting point for processing, and like to avoid processing (rather shoot)
Good demo, Omar! Thanks for these insights.
Hi Omar! Thanks for the video!
The ‐4 NR setting applies also for new bodies (xt3/30)? It seems to me that latest processor is more gentle with the noise reduction, so -2 or -3 NR should be ok ... i will appreciate yr feedback in this regard
Have a niXe day!
Omar you bring an interesting thanks, I notice you have red RAWs using Capture one. I'm also having the same issue with my XT-2 and Capture One 11, did you find an easy way to fix the red, sometimes playing with White Balance and Tint is not enough
Nice tip Omar and I have turned mine to -4 too now....
Thanks! As a longtime Fujifilm XT shooter (XT-1, XT-2, XT-3) I've also found that two other factors play a role with skin tone in very low light. First, of course, is using the fast prime lenses such as the 56mm f1.2 or 35mm f1.4 wide open. Second, the choice of film simulation can make a significant difference. Both Pro Neg Hi and Pro Neg Std improve IQ over Provia or (worse here!) Velvia. Thanks for sharing your useful tip!
I've heard multiple people say they prefer Pro-Neg now. Good advice.
Who's that guy next to Omar? Oh, it's Superman
Great video!! Does anyone have an insight on sharpness setting? Since it kind of makes a pair with NR, I would like to have some advices!
@ 4:09 "Omg look at my egghead." Lol!
Thanks Omar... I have this problem! Couldn’t figure it out, but you clarified. UGH. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Does this apply to RAWs too?
Hey Omar! I see you got yourself a copy of Capture One :), Fuji RAWs + C1 = Magic
Thank you so much for producing this video. Very helpful information
Thanks so much for this video. The low light jpegs were irking me so much, glad there is a fix.
Thanks, -4 it is. Yes Sony FF can produce some noisy images too. On the other hand I was surprised about how well the NR works on a camera like the Sony A7c so I tend to keep that on. On the XT-30 I set the max ISO at 6400 and that covers 99% of my scenario especially using aperture to compensate. What I like about Fuji is that I noticed that I don't pay as much attention to the noise as I am with the Sony so I guess it's a more carefree/plesant shooting experience.
Thank you! Your videos are SO relevant & helpful!
Omar, you are the best! I want more videos. 😍
What better for video and photos canon 6d old camera or fujifilm x-t30? Or Sony 6300?
Is there a level where NR kicks in or is just not perceived with lower iso?
My girlfriend gonna love the +1 NR +1 Sharp JPG, saves the time on editing her skin LOL. BTW, is that Laowa 15mm F/4 on the table? That blue ring really catches my eye.
Thomas Qin haha. Just melt her pixels. Yes. Fun lens. I need to start using it more. It’s being neglected
Ik this is like 5 years later, but what about raw files? Are they soft and smeared also in low light?
I would like to see a how yours Mark 3 or 4 do in situations you just showed. Everybody talking about full frame low light performance but it would be nice to see how much better it is compared to X-T20. I know it's a stupid comparison but anyway :D
Thank's Omar for the tips you are the man! Can we have a video with what settings to use in light conditions like winter in Norway (little to no light faded cold and Summer in Greece ( blindingly sunny clear sky?) We need more videos bro!
This is very helpful Omar! Thank you :)
Do you know if this problem persists in RAW files too?
Higher noise in the Raws since no noise reduction has been applied. Once you do apply noise reduction in post, you may see some waxiness. But this will happen with most high iso raws from any camera.
@@ogonzilla This is good to know, thank you! 😀
Great Job done! I found many Fuji recipes with NR=-4 and couldn't find out the reason beforehand. This is a great answer :)
What about turning off NR completely? Seems to be fine for me.
Hello) Is it works in video mode?
Hi, fuji xt2 with the 18-135 or fuji xh1 with the 15-45, only fop photography
Love your humor Omar! I'm still trying to love the XT-20. It's just so finicky...ha BTW your website is great!
Thanks! Let me know if I can help it be less finicky...
My A7II peaked at iso 640 before terrible colour noise set in. It’s why I sold it and got the X-T2. Full frame had a stop advantage of gain noise, and pooped its pants three steps into the race.
のぢGrey sensor isnt good.. try a73 that's the real deal :) instead of xt3
eL banaag I would... but I have been bitten by hype before and I feel a little betrayed by Sony at this point. It was my fault, because I didn’t know better, but ever since I got the X-T2 it became my new standard of quality. Maybe by the a7sIII I’ll see a purpose for Sony again.
@@-grey a7-2 isnt that great.. sensor is almost the same as the first gen camera. so i wouldn't be surprised.. a72 isnt even a BSI sensor.. a73 is! thats why it can retain so much details even on high iso.. but if you are waiting for a7s3 then that's a real deal.. or you might want to keep an eye to the incoming pansonic lumix FF camera :) 4k60p 10bit recording, probably fully articulated screen which is common to lumix cameras :)
I'm learning Capture One too!
thank you for making this video, great tip!
The +4 NR function I will only use it when shooting portrait for ladies....they love it....
Thanks Omar, great tips.
Great job at comparing the various settings and ISO's. I like to just shoot only jpgs, although just for insurance I shoot jpg+raw all the time just for these conditions and also because I see the same smearing with mostly green areas (foliage, grass) at any ISO, including the base. Any thoughts on this? I have tried various noise reduction settings as well as sharpness, but can't seem to control it or find a happy medium. If it wasn't for this, I would go all Fuji! Keep up the great work and posting great content. Happy holidays from Hawaii.
surely by utilising a technique such as ETTR would go some way to curing this problem of noise I have a canon 5DMk2 and i use that technique all the time i don't get a lot of noise I've just bought a 2nd hand xt1 with a 50mm f2 lens and I'm looking forward to applying it on that camera too
Yes! ETTR can be a little tricky to get your head around but works well. I have an XT1 as well and use it for a lot of product and fashion shoots. I love the grainy film look this camera has when things get a little noisy. I'm not sure why so many people have such issues with noise.
Nik Dfine 2 is the best noise reduction software I have found!
Shoot raw and call it a day?
Yeap, at least when you want to recover info from shadows.
Wow at the end of the vid, you showed xt3 and a7iii in iso 51200. And i found that xt3 has more noise than sony in that iso 🤭
I dont know but what about flash?
1: stay below 2500 ISO.
2: manual white balance.
3: manual shutter speed, don’t trust A.
4: embrace the shadows, let things get cinematic.
のぢGrey I totally agree
Manual white balance for jpegs, but if raw manual white balance could be optional if that slows down your shooting, sometimes there is jus not time to do all manual
Dunno about JPEG: but ISO6400 is fine for RAW with X-T2 IMO as long as it's exposed correctly. I usually use auto-ISO with minimum shutter 1/60-1/500 speed depending on lens / situation
I've got usable shots at ISO 12800, in RAW of course. I'd rather get a noisy image instead of none at all.
Yeah agree with all these points I do the same, especially keeping iso as low as possible since it’s just ambient light. I also expose to the highlights and let the darks be dark, then bring up shadows and such later, way more detail that way.
Strictly the same problem with my X-E3 jpeg. With good outdoor light the jpeg are great or fantastic especially with Kodachrome, Meyerowitz, Eggelston, Portra400, etc simulations. But with low light I really need to use Raw because noise reduction is really ugly. For me this is the most and maybe my only important problem with my Fujifilm.
Emmanuel Christiny what are those simulations you’re on about there then?!
Realizing that Fuji cameras are intended for a different user , they seem to be a bit weak on their flash offerings compared to Nikon and Canon. For example they don't seem to have wireless or sync cable options in their flash lineup (maybe I'm wrong ) and their guide numbers are on the smaller side by comparison. Flash sync for shutter is only average for these consumer grade cameras . The "big two" have provided numerous wireless and cabled options on some very powerful speed lights and I'm a bit surprised at fuji is all I'm saying.
You're probably aware of this 4 years on....There are decent third-party options for flash with FujiFilm. Godox produce decent units - triggers, speedlites and Strobes - which make the results a lot better.
is it just as bad when shooting raws???
What is noise seduction ?
And don't forget that you can always use the NR later from the PC if you really need!
damn the last seconds are the best! Also, I just remembered the question that you answered to me some weeks ago and is this exactly thing! this was very usefull plus your help before, I'm going to -4 NR from now, and the best advice is use the raw files. Enjoyed the video, usefull and easy to understand! :D
Is that for jpeg or raw, or does not matter?
So far I've found I don't really want to go anywhere above ISO 1600 on my X-T3 because it just looks awful :(
That's sad. It may not be a high ISO problem, though. Keep in mind that bad light will ruin even a Iow ISO image. Try the by the window trick I used at 6400. Should be good. Let us know!!
Well I definitely need to learn a lot about how to shoot in low light. Working on it :)
Is that for jpeg or raw, or does not matter?
p b g I shoot regularly at high iso on an xt2 with a fast lens and it’s pretty decent.
@@kevinw7044 snap, never had issues at 1600 or 3200 on xe1, xt1 or xt3 :/
You look like Zoolander at the candle photo with duck face 😁
Is this Alan Watts on the third example picture at the beginning? I thought he was long gone.
Use fast glass in low light to keep ISO levels down. The good old way we old horses used on a film back in the day, which still works...
There's a limit. Glass can only get so fast. Also, the wider aperture change the depth of field which could ruin an image much more than a little noise.
@@JC-fj7oo That's true but you always have to know what you want to accomplish and how to get there. If that means you need to use flash you do it. If that's not possible I'll rather live with shallow DOF than no picture. And that DOF thing is strongly dependant of which lens do you use - you'll still get enough DOF even at f/1,4 (Fuji) if you are shooting with the 16mm lens. Not so much with the 56mm do...
At the end of the day, we are working to the best of our abilities in a certain moment of time. 30 or something years ago when I started to do professional photography ISO 3200 was the upper limit, and those pictures looked atrocious. If they were shot in colour, it was even worse...
I don't think this will solve the problem, I just did a shoot in somewhat low light with the 35mm 1.4 shooting wide open and at 640 iso. The shadows on the face render horribly, it's like a bad joke. I've been a huge Fuji fanboy but as I do more portraits I'm realizing there are some serious problems with their x-trans sensors.
@@77oregano77 Have you tried to process your files in C1 ?
@@tomislavmiletic_No, I tried x-transformer and Lightroom enhance details neither of which helped much and I intend to try silkypix. I've since learned that this is probably a dynamic range issue, when the subject is backlit by very bright lights, the range of bright and dark areas ie. contrast falls outside the limits of what the sensor can capture at that particular iso. I will also try using the histogram to set my exposure.
Love Fuji but I think I’ve given up I can’t afford to move away from lightroom where I have everything organised and I don’t want to use a different software just to get the best out of the raf files, anyhow most of my system is sold now, I have kept the xe3 with the 23mm for the odd street and travel days.
No need to go away from LR. Just get Irident and you're done.
Was this shot on the XT3?
EightFive8 XT2
I rarely shoot only JPEG but for low light heck no. If you allow NR in camera is also makes it harder to do any serious post process as artifacts are worse.
In truth when I really want low light I grab by Sony FF. But I just got the XT3 and it is looking pretty good.
Yeah. Because fujifilm aps-c cameras are really bad in low light.
@@gooeytv1184 Noob comment.
@@gooeytv1184 Check "A6300 vs XT30" low light on youtube
Super helpful!
Omar, come to London!
Thank you Omar. Negative 4 it is then!
I just tried a Samyang 35 f1.2 and is way sharper and detailed than my 23mm f2, even at wide open.
I didnt have to change anything in the camera.
The 23mm is not really sharp. I had it twice and sold it twice. I really disliked it.
Thanks for your videos !!
You're welcome
Is that your zoolander blue steel face?
This is not portrait photography 101?
please video about fuji low light action :D
If you use -4 NR all the time yourJPEGs will look super sharp, but you’ll have tons of crazy shadow noise, even at 200 ISO
Really? Gotta test dat. Thanks..
@@ogonzilla I shoot with my shadows set to -1 or -2, so maybe that's why? I just remember shooting some shots at the beach in very harsh lighting with NR -4 and sharpness at +2, and the images were bitingly sharp, but in an unnatural way, and I got some shadow noise in the extreme shadows. You'll have to pixel peep to see it at ISO 200 but I was surprised
So basically,, if you expose incorrectly, then you get bad results? Isn’t that logical? What about using the DR-setting (dynamic range) at 400? That will only make a difference in jpg, and should help you... because it looks and sounds to be a dynamic range issue.
DR400 (which is available only with iso 800 and above, just saying) affects raw files too. There's a video on youtube that tested this
Riccardo Gabarrini ok! Thanks for clarifying this... I suspected as much, but assumed on the side of DR only affecting jpg... so, proper lighting is as always the right choice!
switch to sony a6500 it solved the problems lol.
just kidding.
2 questions, is the fuji xt1,xt2 or xt20 far worst than the sony's apsc & full frame at low light performance??
im confuse between the xt series, a6xxx or a7 the original or g85.
i only shot jewellery, model kits and some videos for the products inside my room.
i never saw professional photographer using fuji apsc & panasonic mft for product photography. i hope you can help me. thanks.
ascherith ubel blatt fullframe will always give you better iso handling and more details.
@@elbanaag9355 ah i see. i narrow down to xt2 & a7ii right now because the price drop.
but if the full frame really better in details i probably go for the a7ii.
I've been 2 months comparing many cameras and still can't make up my mind lol. it's very hard to find the 1st camera just like choosing women for a wife lol.
the things i hate about a7ii are no 4k,1080p 120fps & silent shutter but the xt2 got no IBIS and i haven't found photographers that use fuji for jewellery product photography.
btw thanks for your reply.
@@ascherithgrey2094 however let me warn you that a72 is very close to a6500 in iso handling.. the sensor in a72 is not BSI sensor.. a73 is BSI.. a6500 aswell has BSI sensor.. so the iso handling between a72 and a73 is huge starting on 6400 and up..
If you learn how to use flashes, even those on a second hand market for just few $ (jewellery is small and close so no problems with that), you'll stop worrying about all this crap and be able to make a beautiful picture even with 10 years old camera. And you didn't said do you need photos for online media or for billboards. What's important in product photography is a good lens, flashes powerful enough for what you do and camera comes in the fourth place, right after your ability to do the job...
Tomislav Miletić yes that's correct but he's basically asking lowlight performance wherein maybe he will need it in some scenarios.. then the answer is fullframe ofcourse.. when doing product its a common sense to use lights.. i wont ask where he needs lowlight performance.. its up to him.. but there you go :)
Now do the same test with the Canon.
Skelley 😂😂😂😂 Canon have lots of red dots at high iso. Very difficult to get rid off.
One thing camera manufacturers never changed, and I mean never changed ever since I had my first 320*240 resolution "camera", is smearing the photos by default. You can buy a 24MP or 42MP camera but what you'll get is more pixels of smears.
Every jpeg in every camera looks bad in difficult light conditions, at least noisy or washed up, Fuji just adds a weird waxy texture, but still not a problem unless you print large pictures.
You are so funny and also a genius.
So help me if I dream of Omar's head zooming back and forth...I'm suing for photographer angst. Many other peeps on the Fuji love and Fuji Passion groups say the same thing crank down the NR for jpegs. The few times I have to shoot at 12800 (church events) I just go straight to the RAW file as I know it's not going to be pretty.
Randy Pollock Haha. I’m a nightmare not a dream. Well as for me, I’m staying outdoors.
I've been shooting RAW at my son's hockey games with the 55-200mm 3.5-5.6 - ISO 3200, SS 500. The pictures have been very noisy, and a little underexposed. Obviously can't pump up the ISO anymore and if I lower the SS, I won't freeze the action. Even adjustments in LR doesn't make them much better. Very disappointed in low light performance.
@@susandangelo7370 I have the 55-200 as well and only use it outdoors...for indoor events I use my 90mm or my 18 - 55mm both are awesome. I understand your issue trying to do sports were you have to freeze action is a dimly lit arena is too much for most Fuji lens...unless we chip in together and get that 200mm LoL
Susan Dangelo which Fujifilm do you have?
@@ogonzilla Xt20. Overall, I'm happy with the camera. I needed a telephoto to shoot the hockey games, so I bought the 55-200. I didn't realize the issues with low light photography and Fuji. :-(
I shoot RAW and JPEG. Really grainy pics and even editing the RAW files, doesn't improve them much.
Haha..He's got the Blue Steel look going on.
Ahahaha. Love your humour Sups :)
I turn off NR on any camera I use. If I want to reduce noise, I'll do that in post.
Also, if you can shoot RAW why would you shoot JPEG? 100% of the time, its better to shoot in RAW.
The folks saying to buy a FF camera instead crack me up. Of course a bigger sensor is gonna have greater low light performance...
So with a lower ISO you get better image quality -- not that surprising ;-)
Nick Google sometimes you can’t go low. Like when your subjects are people. That move. Lol. 😉
This is the biggest negative about the Fuji system that very few people talk about. I wasn't aware how bad it was before I bought into the system. Coming from a Nikon D750 and D500 I was in complete shock with the difference. The poor low light and the onoing issues I've had with my X-H1 has made me buy back into Nikon full frame. My X-H1 is back at Fujifilm for repair for Christmas!! 😫
Same here, this has been my only disappointment with my camera (X-T20). I got it in part because of it's lowlight ability or so I thought, but really I'm half the problem because I don't shoot RAW. Also the LCD making shots look good that won't look anywhere else, also frustrating.
Because in the correct context, Fuji's Low Light performance It's not a negative. For APS-C, Fujifilm Trans 3 Low-light High ISO (In the XT2, H1, and T20) is quite good when compared to other APS-C cameras (especially when shooting RAW)
However, expecting FF performance at low-light is totally foolish. At that point it's physics. FF sensors will always take in more light than APS-C sensors because they are bigger.
It can be solved somewhat by super fast aperture lenses, which Fuji has a few of, but it's still never going to compare to a larger sensor if what you're looking for is super clean low noise output.
@@SeanWashPhoto I was foolish to think it would be somewhat equal to a crop sensor Nikon or similar camera at the same price point. It doesn't come close to the performance of a D3300 which is poor given its price point. It is however great in good light and produces really pleasing images. FF sensors don't take in more light because they're bigger, that's a different discussion! The problem with the Fuji is down to it's sensor and the native ISO which is 200-1600. For this reason it just doesn't perform and I wish I'd done more homework before I bought into the system. I made a few wrong assumptions and listened too much to the hype. My biggest disappointment thought is that it keeps breaking down.
What nonsense is this!!? Have you checked DPreview's or imaging-resource's comparison tools? Even the X-A5 beats the D500/750's quality in high ISO 😂
@@atrix889 you can say what you want, fuji low light ability is among the worst in the industry. I have xt2, nijin D7000 and nikon d750, both nikons are significantly better than the fuji, infact not even in the same league with the nikons.
This is one of the issues pushing me back to Canon and/or a traditional bayer sensor. The X-trans does not do a good job rendering details.
I use Iridient X-Transformer and the files are just as good if not better in terms of detail rendering than full frame Nikon body..just saying.
I find Xtrans better than bayer but i use Capture one
@@nerwin Completely agree the problem is adobe, capture one or any of the other developers are aimed at the more common bayer sensor. Lightroom classic CC has got better but Iridient can't be beaten for dng conversion. Another problem is people are still In the mind set 'Sharpen as you did before' and with extrans files you can't get away with it. noise reduction and sharpening is better in photoshop or Iridient Developer. IMHO
@@oldgrumpyjim5003 The other problem is people are pixel peeping WAY too much.
Jim McDowall Grumpy Photographer using iridient X-trans and LR and C1. Comparing bayer to xtrans there is no contest, bayer is sharper to my eyes. Xtrans is easily muddled and I think it is way overhyped. Love the shooting experience though, but pretty much not satisfied with end results.
If you need noise in your life just grab any APSC sensor from Canon.
Very Zoolander on the last one
Why shot JPEG? Is the XT3 at par with sony and leica q, etc, at low light, ISO3200 with RAW files?
answer is clear.. it is a NO.. Sony's got great lowlight performance.. a7S2, a73 and incoming a7s3.. all 3 doesn't have an issue even with 6400-12800 iso.. fullframe benefits iso performance.. it's physics..
eL banaag yes!
I have shot as high as 12,800 with my XT-2 and created a great 16X20 print of the image. I have had no such problem at high ISO with the XT-2 but I have seen much greater noise in the XT-3 starting at much lower ISO’s. Perhaps the problem that many others are speaking about here is based upon how they sharpen Fuji images in LR. I would not be concerned about high ISO’s in the XT-2 personally. I have done a lot of hand held street shooting at night with the 2 and they may be a little noisy but still work well for me.
I've always felt Fuji cameras overprocess their images.
Process in capture one
tallaganda83 doesn't solve the issue.. apsc will always be limited to iso performance.. fullframe is the answer.
I shoot my Fuji cameras in low light the majority of the time and never have I ever got “waxy skin” or the “ watercolor effect“. And I’ve shot above 6400 many times.
TheIkaika777 Tell is your secret man!!!
Omar Gonzalez Photography, no secret. I do have my NR always at -4 but other than that no secret. The waxy skin and watercolor effect was a problem with the first generation X camera’s but the X-Trans CMOS 3 and X-Processor Pro fixed those problems. I’ve seen those problems only with the X-Pro1/X-10/X-T1. I’ve never experienced or seen those problems with the X-Pro2/X100F/X-T2/X-T3. A lot of the problem was also due to the user jacking up the NR and sharpness.
@@TheIkaika777 no, trans 1-2 does not have that problem. It's problem of trans 3-4 and 24mp.
Миссис Клювдия, nope.
“No, X-Trans is not responsible for waxy skin tones. It’s the processor, and to be more precise, waxy skin tones are caused by the noise reduction that Fujifilm applies to the JPEG images (the probem does not exist with RAW files).
In the Fuji world, the X-A line (Bayer sensor) gives way more waxy results than any X-Trans camera, as you can see clearly here. This is so, because Fuji wants it this way. The X-A line is very popular amongst Asian women, and Fuji’s imaging engine is adapted to meet their taste.
Back to X-Trans… Fujifilm has listened to feedback and has fine tuned noise reduction as well as given customers more range to adjust it in-camera with X-Trans III cameras like the Fujifilm X-T2. Waxy skin tones are now better controlled.”
www.fujirumors.com/debunking-fujifilm-x-trans-myths-purple-flare-wormy-artifacts-high-iso-cheating-waxy-skin-tones/
Миссис Клювдия, and again,
“The X Pro 1 is truly an incredible camera. Many write about the shortcomings of the aging X pro 1. ***Those complaints include waxy skin at high ISO, dynamic range issues in high contrast situations, slow autofocus, in-accurate autofocus, poor RAW file handling and the “Fuji” look/color management.
While all that stuff is true at times, when you hit with a Fuji camera and get it right the results are simply incredible.”
imaginegnat.com/2016/01/04/5-years-with-fuji-x-cameras/
Put DR400 on and start exposing for shadows! You can clip by two stops on that setting. I wonder if that works, as I'm pretty sure it reduces iso then applies a tone curve.
. Either that or expose more than needed, since in low light we usually go for darker exposure compensation and not 'average grey'.
I love my d4s......😍😍
HERE IS A TIP don't shoot in jpeg mode, shoot raw i mean you paid good money for the camera why not get the most out of it.
Because its an xtrans ii or iii or iv.
The original does not do this.
Put that camera under your tire and do a burnout
Hilarious comment! Am still laughing!! I have 2 Fujifilm cameras and love them. Just an enthusiast and having fun with them.
u r the best!
I've got to say, for crop sensor the Canon 80D can pull at least two stops from ISO 1600/2000 and retain decent detail better than what I've seen from the Fuji mirrorless crop. Its probably still the best low light performer for AF tracking Ive used, it'll literally focus a good few stops below 0ev. For ISO Ive learned this is the secret to shooting fast action in average light conditions with the A7III and most cameras that handle low light. Seems ISO 1600/2000 is the cap limit and pull up from there.
Sensor saturation /KenWheeler
Can you elaborate on Sensor Saturation? And why I would divide it by KenWheeler?
@@shifteleven lol...Well...the "/" is a way to reference something at the end of a statement. So...I'm stating that the RUclipsr Ken Wheeler preaches sensor saturation for better image quality, (sharpness, color, clarity, Dynamic Range...etc...).
@@RyanLunaPhotography OK. So basically exposing to the right (without clipping) as a way to give the sensor the most amount of data to work with? Which usually I find doesn't work great for JPEGs, but fine for RAW files since you can play with exposure, shadows, highlights with more fidelity. Or is it something else?
And I totally got the "/" - just had to make my joke. I was going to say you shouldn't divide by a 0, but I didn't want to be too rude (math slam!) :)
@@shifteleven Sounds about right. Personally, I bracket, but I shoot static subjects, not people.
Be careful taking advice from that guy, he is NOT a working professional photographer. He may have a bit of technical information but he lacks any kind of real world experience in such matters.
Noooooo Not SAD FACE! My wife watches that all the time.
Lex Luther: "Now let's look at a picture of me...that's not me, that's sups, I always get us confused" hmm...does your wife know your not Superman?
Yes...we want noise reduction to make stubble look like gray makeup. Nice video and explanation.
Oh she reminds me I'm not superman. often...lol...
My decade old sub $100 Nikon D3100 with 35mm f/1.8 shoots better indoors than my XT3 with 35 1.4. The XT3 has been horrible to use. We shouldn't be having to mess around so much in post. I've just bought the 10-24 and again it's useless in almost all conditions. Impossible to use indoors without flash, always blurry and always with huge amounts of distortion. Standard DSLR's are better at everything - and proven. Fuji mirrorless cameras are utter shite. It's cost me a fortune finding this out. All syle over substance. Fuji have had a fantastic PR campaign. Giving popular youtubers free gear in return for positive video reviews has paid dividends. I'll definitely be going back to Nikon whose lenses and sensors are able to expose image's without having to crank ISO.
Because xtrans technology is pointless.If you see sensors like the D500(3 years old) or D7500 you can understand that the xtrans doesn't have any benefit.
Smaller, lighter camera's are a benefit.