Tech Tip; if you leave the cam locking tool in place you can do one cam at a time and not have to mess with the tensioner or use the T handle tool or anything. Just slide one phaser off the cam while leaving the other one bolted in place. It’s a big time saver. Also you don’t have to remove the cam actuators from the valve cover to remove and install the valve cover. I do a ton of these and have never had a problem.
I do all my own work on my older dodges, but I'm afraid to touch my journey because of the sideways engine mounting. I want to break into it and see if any old performance cam will work in it though. Do you know if it would use the same camshafts as other 3.6 pentastars? Its an 18 journey.
@@timbrwolf1121 I don’t think anyone makes performance cams for the 3.6L. The part numbers are the same for all 3.6L’s until the new EGR version came out. Because it’s got variable valve timing I’m not even sure the engine would work with bigger cams.
@@scottgraham6910 Okay still plan on doing something to it because no one has. This video just gave me more confidence. Are there any performance options that would fit say a durango or ram 3.6 that I could shoehorn into the journey with some effort?
@@timbrwolf1121 I’ve been a Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep mechanic since 1996, so I’ve been here since the beginning of the 3.6 and I have never seen any kind of performance upgrades on one aside from the occasional aftermarket air filter. I saw on a RUclips video once that the intake manifolds on the newer EGR 3.6’s have larger runners and people swap them. That’s about it
two pieces of advice after watching your vid so i could do this job. one. i painted the two pins on the chain that split the line on the phasers just in case. two. because i was also replacing the intake cam on the right bank you cant lock the tensioner on that side. what i did was leave the cam/phaser lock tools in place when i slid the phasers off of the cams. kept everything nice and tight and lined up through the process. great vid. thanks for posting
Just a heads up whenever you do this job on a 3.6 Check those gally bolts below the cam phasers they all loosen up or even back out a decent amount they dont need to be super tight (13 ft lbs )
You need to paint a line on the phaser to the chain before you take that phaser and camshaft out otherwise it's going to be difficult to know exactly where it's supposed to be
When inserted the plastic tool to push chain tensioner the plastic side of guide rail broke off the tensioner. I used correct part you mentioned. Do i need to replace with a new chain tensioner and tear the whole front of motor apart? Or will it still provide tension on chain with one side of the plastic broke?
Everyone of these engines should have been recalled by Chrysler. I had to do rocker arms at 74k miles and at 105k its ticking again. Cam was also eaten up but I didn't bother with it because the new roller doesn't actually ride on the worn spot on the cam. I question his statement that it will never be back for the same repair? Fortunately, I've heard that the bottom end is very good on the 3.6
Nicely done thanks for sharing this video.. What is the torque specs on the oil control valve I been looking for the specs but some say 118 foot pounds. Others 109 foot pounds.. I have a 2015 ram promaster 3500 thanks.
I’m stuck on getting slack to put the cams phasers back in, how did your release the tension on the chain? It’s been 2 days of effort with those tools.
Hello. I am hoping I can find some help here. When removing the valve cover there is a piece of round plastic like a cup that came loose from the rear of the exhaust cam shaft on the passenger side on our 2015 JKU. I was going in to replace some noisy rocker arms which is done now but this cap keep falling off when I try to put the valve cover back on. Is this piece necessary? Below is a stock photo. The left side shows the plastic part I am mentioning. I tried adding some adhesive in the hopes it stays on but I am curious if it will do fine without it or do I need to replace the cam now?
Hello, Wondering if you can help me out - I would really appreciate it.. 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Running fine when brought into independent shop, just had ticking noise. I had the ticking noise and knew it was the rockers so I went to a reputable independent shop to get them replaced. Upon inspection, they said that the rockers were causing the noise and also that one of the cam shaft lobes were completely worn down. So I got a new camshaft as well.. Then they put everything back together and after idling for 15 minutes, the car died. Turns out it broke a valve (valve broke in the middle of the shaft). They got a new valve and got something else re-machined as it evidently was damaged when the valve broke. Then they put it back together (again) and it broke another valve after idling for 15 minutes, this time under the camshaft that they didn't replace.. So now they are calling jeep dealerships to see if they know what's going on.. So my question is - have you ever seen random valves breaking after installing all new rockers? And a new camshaft? They are a good shop and are open to the possibility that either the new parts are defective or their technician installed something wrong. It seems way too far fetched to me that the same type of part just keeps breaking after they put it back together.. Especially when it was running/driving fine prior to them touching it. So now I'm in $4k on a car thats worth $7500 and still doesn't run. Any ideas as to what could be going on? I would really appreciate your help if you could provide it. I'd be happy to provide any more info you need. Thank you!! Keep up the great content!
I'm sorry you have this problem. I never heard of valve breaking in the middle. You mean the actual exhaust or intake valves are breaking? The cylinder head must come off to replace a valve. FCA /Chrysler doesn't want us (the dealership) to replace valves so every time we have a leaking valve, we replace the whole cylinder head - comes loaded with all valves and springs. To me, it sounds like a fault in the install. If the timing was off it would most likely bend the valves as the valve would open in the wrong time and hit the piston.
You are a awesome mechanic!! I appreciate your knowledge and hard work you share with us. Do you think it is possible to get custom ground camshafts for this engine?
Gus Kuratle jr I wouldn’t know. Pentastar is a good engine, their weak spot is with the valvetrain. I would not dare to modify anything especially the cams.
@@TDRAuto Thank you for your honest response I love the horsepower that it puts out for what the engine is, I would love for that lopey sound the idle but my wallet is not that full right now. Back in the highschool days I would fatten up the ole Holley on my 390 68 f100 to make her sound a little more pumped LMAO
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt Criticism is so easy on the internet. Isn't it? Perhaps you can enlighten us all and put your ideas to a real test. TDR put his ideas on the table-- I dought you have the balls to do the same.
Hi, my mechanic didn't use the lockout kit, he just pried the tree up and changed lifters and rockers. When starting the car, it turned on the check engine (Code P0349) BANK 2 SENSOR 1., The sensor has already been changed and it continues to show the same thing. I remember that he used a magnet to remove a seesaw that got stuck. I reminded him that I use a magnet but he said nothing was wrong. Question, how can I know if this piece received so much magnetism that it does not work and gives me bad readings to the sensor of the tree. Please I need your help since I have seen several mechanics and they want to change the whole engine. I don't think this is possible since the engine is clean and on this side there were no rocker arm problems, but I chose to change the 24. My car works and drives as long as you accelerate slowly, but it doesn't react by accelerating right away and it doesn't overdrive
So you don't need to pull the engine? I was told to replace the cams on the WK2 you have to pull the whole block because of something with the pan needing to be dropped underneath? Is this true or no?
In the shop I work, we do cams on these cars with 3.6L on monthly basis and never had to pull the engine out. As you can see on the video, you don't need to even touch the oil pan.
he used a wrong tool. The ones with a slut on them are meant for the 2nd head, the flat one is for the front. And he put it in the wrong direction also.
My question is this maybe easy on front but how about the rear cause i have entire top apart but looking at rear cover seems a bit scary in back on dodge journeys
Do you think you can side the roller rocker out without completely removing the cam shaft and messing with the timing? I was thinking if I loosen the caps I’d be able to slide the bad rocker out. What do you think?
Aldo99 Nope that won’t work. The rocker sits on top of the hydraulic lifter, it needs to be lifted a bit to come off the ‘seat’. You should also replace the lifter.
You don't need to mess with the tensioner. Leave the block in place and take the bolt out. The phaser will slide back enough to remove the camshaft. Have to do one at a time though.
@@TDRAuto Hi there sir, I have a quick question, is it true that when the camshaft has waer, the headlights bulbs start flickering due to lack of engine power? Please let me know if this is true
I replaced bad rocker arm and camshaft because of ticking noise. I put all back together and now it makes a chirping noise instead of ticking noise now. Please help
Yes if the camshafts were moved to neutral position (valve springs not compressed) after torquing the caps you must move the cams back to TDC before installing the timing chain and phasers/cam gears.
My 2017 Ram pentastar , just had the cam sensor and cam phasers changed . Check engine light , also traction control off symbol goes on the dash. Goes into a limp mode and have to pull off high way very dangerous!!! Any way Chrysler paid under power train warranty, but not the cam sensor.??? I Should I just turn it in ,,it is a lease. ?? I may owe 3000dollars for over 8000 miles over. .. Is there any more honor ??? PS, must be nice to have your knowledge.
@@TDRAuto i completely agree. And i thought they are 100% the same but had to ask. Thanks man. You taught me how to fix my dads jeep and save him the 4000 dollar qoute from dealer
Has anyone had an issue with the reluctant wheel spinning out of position on the cam? I hve a 2014ram throwing a timing code . I'm 100% positive the timing is set correctly.
Tech Tip; if you leave the cam locking tool in place you can do one cam at a time and not have to mess with the tensioner or use the T handle tool or anything. Just slide one phaser off the cam while leaving the other one bolted in place. It’s a big time saver. Also you don’t have to remove the cam actuators from the valve cover to remove and install the valve cover. I do a ton of these and have never had a problem.
I do all my own work on my older dodges, but I'm afraid to touch my journey because of the sideways engine mounting. I want to break into it and see if any old performance cam will work in it though. Do you know if it would use the same camshafts as other 3.6 pentastars? Its an 18 journey.
@@timbrwolf1121 I don’t think anyone makes performance cams for the 3.6L. The part numbers are the same for all 3.6L’s until the new EGR version came out. Because it’s got variable valve timing I’m not even sure the engine would work with bigger cams.
@@scottgraham6910 Okay still plan on doing something to it because no one has. This video just gave me more confidence. Are there any performance options that would fit say a durango or ram 3.6 that I could shoehorn into the journey with some effort?
@@scottgraham6910 The engine placement and everything still scares me. Im used to working on trucks lol
@@timbrwolf1121 I’ve been a Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep mechanic since 1996, so I’ve been here since the beginning of the 3.6 and I have never seen any kind of performance upgrades on one aside from the occasional aftermarket air filter. I saw on a RUclips video once that the intake manifolds on the newer EGR 3.6’s have larger runners and people swap them. That’s about it
two pieces of advice after watching your vid so i could do this job. one. i painted the two pins on the chain that split the line on the phasers just in case. two. because i was also replacing the intake cam on the right bank you cant lock the tensioner on that side. what i did was leave the cam/phaser lock tools in place when i slid the phasers off of the cams. kept everything nice and tight and lined up through the process. great vid. thanks for posting
Just a heads up whenever you do this job on a 3.6 Check those gally bolts below the cam phasers they all loosen up or even back out a decent amount they dont need to be super tight (13 ft lbs )
You need to paint a line on the phaser to the chain before you take that phaser and camshaft out otherwise it's going to be difficult to know exactly where it's supposed to be
You make this look a lot harder than it should be
And what would you do differently? I ask because I have to do this job, and would like as much info as possible.
Me too. Working on my dodge charger 2013. Finding the tension hole is stuff hard to see it
When inserted the plastic tool to push chain tensioner the plastic side of guide rail broke off the tensioner. I used correct part you mentioned. Do i need to replace with a new chain tensioner and tear the whole front of motor apart? Or will it still provide tension on chain with one side of the plastic broke?
Everyone of these engines should have been recalled by Chrysler. I had to do rocker arms at 74k miles and at 105k its ticking again. Cam was also eaten up but I didn't bother with it because the new roller doesn't actually ride on the worn spot on the cam. I question his statement that it will never be back for the same repair? Fortunately, I've heard that the bottom end is very good on the 3.6
Nicely done thanks for sharing this video..
What is the torque specs on the oil control valve I been looking for the specs but some say 118 foot pounds. Others 109 foot pounds..
I have a 2015 ram promaster 3500 thanks.
The chains will nerve come off the crank sprocket. Great vidio
Just FYI. That was the left side you were working on not the right.
I’m stuck on getting slack to put the cams phasers back in, how did your release the tension on the chain? It’s been 2 days of effort with those tools.
I believe this other guy uses the tool in the right place ruclips.net/video/oUHN1GRMC7M/видео.html
Check out this guy too ruclips.net/video/IYT7UGSL93s/видео.html
Same here . Trying to find the hole is isn’t working for me . Please let me know if you figured it out
Hello. I am hoping I can find some help here. When removing the valve cover there is a piece of round plastic like a cup that came loose from the rear of the exhaust cam shaft on the passenger side on our 2015 JKU. I was going in to replace some noisy rocker arms which is done now but this cap keep falling off when I try to put the valve cover back on. Is this piece necessary? Below is a stock photo. The left side shows the plastic part I am mentioning.
I tried adding some adhesive in the hopes it stays on but I am curious if it will do fine without it or do I need to replace the cam now?
Hello,
Wondering if you can help me out - I would really appreciate it..
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Running fine when brought into independent shop, just had ticking noise.
I had the ticking noise and knew it was the rockers so I went to a reputable independent shop to get them replaced. Upon inspection, they said that the rockers were causing the noise and also that one of the cam shaft lobes were completely worn down. So I got a new camshaft as well.. Then they put everything back together and after idling for 15 minutes, the car died. Turns out it broke a valve (valve broke in the middle of the shaft). They got a new valve and got something else re-machined as it evidently was damaged when the valve broke.
Then they put it back together (again) and it broke another valve after idling for 15 minutes, this time under the camshaft that they didn't replace.. So now they are calling jeep dealerships to see if they know what's going on..
So my question is - have you ever seen random valves breaking after installing all new rockers? And a new camshaft?
They are a good shop and are open to the possibility that either the new parts are defective or their technician installed something wrong. It seems way too far fetched to me that the same type of part just keeps breaking after they put it back together.. Especially when it was running/driving fine prior to them touching it.
So now I'm in $4k on a car thats worth $7500 and still doesn't run.
Any ideas as to what could be going on? I would really appreciate your help if you could provide it. I'd be happy to provide any more info you need.
Thank you!! Keep up the great content!
I'm sorry you have this problem. I never heard of valve breaking in the middle. You mean the actual exhaust or intake valves are breaking? The cylinder head must come off to replace a valve. FCA /Chrysler doesn't want us (the dealership) to replace valves so every time we have a leaking valve, we replace the whole cylinder head - comes loaded with all valves and springs. To me, it sounds like a fault in the install. If the timing was off it would most likely bend the valves as the valve would open in the wrong time and hit the piston.
You are a awesome mechanic!! I appreciate your knowledge and hard work you share with us. Do you think it is possible to get custom ground camshafts for this engine?
Gus Kuratle jr I wouldn’t know. Pentastar is a good engine, their weak spot is with the valvetrain. I would not dare to modify anything especially the cams.
@@TDRAuto Thank you for your honest response I love the horsepower that it puts out for what the engine is, I would love for that lopey sound the idle but my wallet is not that full right now. Back in the highschool days I would fatten up the ole Holley on my 390 68 f100 to make her sound a little more pumped LMAO
@@TDRAuto if you think this is a good engine you got a lot to learn
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt Criticism is so easy on the internet. Isn't it? Perhaps you can enlighten us all and put your ideas to a real test. TDR put his ideas on the table-- I dought you have the balls to do the same.
Hi, my mechanic didn't use the lockout kit, he just pried the tree up and changed lifters and rockers. When starting the car, it turned on the check engine (Code P0349) BANK 2 SENSOR 1., The sensor has already been changed and it continues to show the same thing. I remember that he used a magnet to remove a seesaw that got stuck. I reminded him that I use a magnet but he said nothing was wrong. Question, how can I know if this piece received so much magnetism that it does not work and gives me bad readings to the sensor of the tree. Please I need your help since I have seen several mechanics and they want to change the whole engine. I don't think this is possible since the engine is clean and on this side there were no rocker arm problems, but I chose to change the 24. My car works and drives as long as you accelerate slowly, but it doesn't react by accelerating right away and it doesn't overdrive
thanks for the vid. It helps to see what I am about to get into.
Where do I get those bolts for the brackets that hold down the camshaft outside of mopar?
Graet video my town country 2012 engine3.6 codes 2172 and 0113 i followed up but is getting hard to started any suggestions thankfully
I have my tool put in the opposite way I didn’t use a locking pin just a weight in the tool
To hold pressure on the chain and the tensioner
What causes these to break I have 2020 Gladiator 30k mi Needs r side replaced warranty.
What is the overall problem thats causing this issue?
So you don't need to pull the engine? I was told to replace the cams on the WK2 you have to pull the whole block because of something with the pan needing to be dropped underneath? Is this true or no?
In the shop I work, we do cams on these cars with 3.6L on monthly basis and never had to pull the engine out. As you can see on the video, you don't need to even touch the oil pan.
@@TDRAuto Exactly what I thought. I appreciate you - thank you
Was the plastic t shaped tool meant to be inserted the other direction, with the point headed towards the middle of the engine/ toward the crank?
he used a wrong tool. The ones with a slut on them are meant for the 2nd head, the flat one is for the front. And he put it in the wrong direction also.
My question is this maybe easy on front but how about the rear cause i have entire top apart but looking at rear cover seems a bit scary in back on dodge journeys
Valve cover in the back is harder to come off for sure. Proper tools help.
Great video, Thank you.
Do you think you can side the roller rocker out without completely removing the cam shaft and messing with the timing? I was thinking if I loosen the caps I’d be able to slide the bad rocker out. What do you think?
Aldo99 Nope that won’t work. The rocker sits on top of the hydraulic lifter, it needs to be lifted a bit to come off the ‘seat’. You should also replace the lifter.
TDR Auto okay, thanks
Aldo99 yes you can take them out with out removing the cam shaft done it twice .
Undo cam bearing caps. Fronts more difficult
What torque do Cambolt caps go to
You don't need to mess with the tensioner. Leave the block in place and take the bolt out. The phaser will slide back enough to remove the camshaft. Have to do one at a time though.
I like to take it all at once, so I can inspect everything. In some cases the warranty people will not approve add ons.
So just line up the arrows on driver side. Lock them in place. Then remove the bolt and phaser one at a time with tension still on the chain?
Will I still be able to put back the phasers when done even with the tension on them?
@@TDRAuto Hi there sir, I have a quick question, is it true that when the camshaft has waer, the headlights bulbs start flickering due to lack of engine power? Please let me know if this is true
@@maddog9793 that is the first time I hear that. I would test the battery and charging system, could also be a poor ground connection.
How much you spend end parts man
How did you get the grenade pin in?
Would it be possible to replace one phaser at a time without using that special tool?
Yes. But buy the tools
You should break them loose with the ratchet first not a power tool good way to strip out a bolt
Man U doing the easy one, I’m doing the right bank on a Danm van 🙄
Here is the right bank! :-) ruclips.net/video/B3-1la-a2Fc/видео.html
How many camshafts does a Dodge Journey hve
Can reuse the tensioner
Good tip
what is the torque of the screws that hold the camshaft
I replaced bad rocker arm and camshaft because of ticking noise. I put all back together and now it makes a chirping noise instead of ticking noise now. Please help
Revisa si está bien apretada la válvula pcv , el mecánico que me reparo el auto la dejo floja y se oía un leve silvido
Do you have to turn the camshaft back after you retighten the caps?
Yes if the camshafts were moved to neutral position (valve springs not compressed) after torquing the caps you must move the cams back to TDC before installing the timing chain and phasers/cam gears.
@@TDRAuto so would using a paint pen on the cam be a good way to know exactly how compressed the spring is?
My 2017 Ram pentastar , just had the cam sensor and cam phasers changed . Check engine light , also traction control off symbol goes on the dash. Goes into a limp mode and have to pull off high way very dangerous!!! Any way Chrysler paid under power train warranty, but not the cam sensor.???
I
Should I just turn it in ,,it is a lease. ?? I may owe 3000dollars for over 8000 miles over. ..
Is there any more honor ???
PS, must be nice to have your knowledge.
Great tips , I can sell you a third arm but it’s not going to be cheap.
Just curious noticed you had in and ex on your cam actuators. I didn't think about that and mixed mine up. Will any harm be done?
They are the same part numbers. I just do it automatically, putting things back where I took them from. :-)
@@TDRAuto i completely agree. And i thought they are 100% the same but had to ask. Thanks man. You taught me how to fix my dads jeep and save him the 4000 dollar qoute from dealer
Love it
SHOULD HAVE MARK YOUR CHAIN WITH THE TIMING CHAIN AT LEAST
Driving that engine way too long with the worn rockers for sure ruined the cams!
I think it's just bad steel.
Think your right
Mopar 0W20 to słaby olej
It's a great engine, if only they fixed those small kinks.
Like the heads going bad all the time?
Has anyone had an issue with the reluctant wheel spinning out of position on the cam?
I hve a 2014ram throwing a timing code .
I'm 100% positive the timing is set correctly.
Any update? What was it?
The timing kit on Amazon for $26
Yikes that was no fun