The ECM is not the trucks computer. It is the engines computer. It does not control or have anything in common with lights except they all get their power and grounds from the same place. The computer will play games when it isn’t fed properly. When it can’t determine certain things it will go into kinda a save me mode. I see this is four years old, lol. I guess I’ll jump ahead and see how you made out.
I'm having the same issue as him, can't figure it out. I've changed every sensor and redid all the wiring. I'm about to order a new ECM and pray that it fixes it.
@@JayRossTVision you said wiring? Like you replaced the harness? There are so many possibilities , and it’s been a long time for me. Bottom line is check for codes, check grounds and hots for solid clean contacts. Check ecm input voltage or better do a voltage drop on that circuit. Check ecm grounds. The whine temp gauge and dash gauge are not from the same sensor if my memory is working tonight so changing say one up by the rad header won’t be connected to the engine. Can you get an old reader anywhere? Detroit dealers had them. Real simple, little card like Nintendo for which gen of ddec enter ‘ This and that read this and that. Turn on fan turn off cyl 4. Etc. Hell raise top speed, change hp, check mileage, fuel used since last time. I can’t believe they aren’t out in the public🤔. Maybe all gone, been since ddec v was only a couple years old that I left. I should dust off my ddec iv diagnostic manual and have it around when I see something I think I can help with. Simply been a long time. Was damn good on a 60 mind you, so nice an engine to work on. Hope all find there problems. Those boxes are getting very old and even when they were newer we changed quite a lot. Mind you a lot were warranty for a variety of issues.
A buddy of mine did that same process as far as buying an ecm from a guy in Pennsylvania, he had to send it back twice turned out it was junk. He ended up getting the one at freightliner for $1700 worked fine!
thank u for the input. I parked this truck for a few months. I have to replace the turbo. I have had a lot of ideas to research. As soon as I get it fixed I will do a video on it.
@@kurtsibila9682 oh okay cool if you're still having a problem with that fan my buddy had that problem also, he said check your wiring from the temperature sensor!!
Just because some light worked when you put them in once upon a time when you installed them doesn’t mean you don’t have a ground problem with something else such as the ecm 😅 Arguing with someone who’s well versed in electronics and trying to help you is a fruitless endeavor, that’s why the guy suggested taking it to freightliner. I would rather you take it down the road too 😅and throwing parts at something isn’t the process of elimination, unless you’re trying to eliminate your money 😅
It is the harness bro I had same problem had to order the harness since freightliner didn't have them it in stock but all my problems went away when they took out the harness it had salty minerals built up on the connector which caused low voltage and kept the fan on all the time it might work for you also I would say instead of buying a new get it cleaned out and put it back in and see if that helps before waiting 2 weeks for them to ship it out they told me the reason it took longer was because they had to make it first
Salman Pervaiz I just wanted to thank u....... it was the wiring HARNESS. I did a video on it. A mechanic that is no longer with us. Installed a starter. He broke the wire and spliced it. And when I was tracking the HARNESS. I saw the broken wire. I could have respliced the wire. But I figured we have done everything else. Might as well replace the HARNESS. Thanks again
Mechanic told me it’s the loose screw between steering wheel and driver’s seat that’s how I ended up in jail after knocking his ass out with couple punches
@@kurtsibila9682 shoulda seen his face when he woke up looking around crying like a little bitch with a big mouth that was even funnier than his little smartass remark
@@garykeenan3724 I would have loved to see his face. Fucking mechanics....... Think they are so smart. And God's gift to this world. Can't stand mechanics
@@kurtsibila9682 there are smart good technicians but when your losing money down time and expensive parts/ money not in the mood for bullshit from someone that’s suppose to help you not insult you ya do believe was worth couple days in jail!!!
I’m having some of the same issues as you except with less fault codes. My engine fan had stayed on for two days, my check engine light comes on as well the shutdown light. My gauges are good, voltage, good. Water temperature good. I stuck my finger in coolant reservoir and did not burn off..🧐🧐 so I’m good, except some of the weird stuff happening. Changed low coolant sensor twice, because two different computer diagnostics said so and still same issue. Have not noticed to much loss of power but my fuel mileage is killing me. 5.1 mpg empty with a 7 car cotrell.
I HAD MY FAN STAY ON FOR MONTHS. NOBODY COULD FIGURE IT OUT. TRIES EVERYTHING. THEN I ORDERED THR WIRE HARNESS. I WAS TO THE VERY LAST PLUG. WHEN I FOUND THE BROKEN WIRE. I WAS SO ANGRY. BECAUSE THIS SHIT BAG MECHANIC AT MY SHOP. PUT IN A STARTER. HIS ASS BROKE THE WIRE. AND INSTEAD OF PULLING THE HARNESS OUT. TO DO THE SPLICE. HE DID THE SPLICE IN THE TIGHTEST PLACE POSSIBLE. AND THE SPLICE CONNECTION BROKE FREE. SO THE WHOLE TIME IT WAS JUST A BROKEN WIRE. HOWEVER THE ECM DID NEED TO BE REPAIRED. IT IS STILL WORKING LIKE THE DAY I PUT IT BACK IN. I RECOMMEND SENDING ECM IN. BUT FIRST INSTALL A NEW WIRE HARNESS. IT WAS 200 DOLLARS. IF U STILL HAVE TGE FAN ON? THEN SEND THE ECM IN. U DID CHANGE THE AIR SOLENOID YES? THAT'S THE VERY FIRST THING U WANT TO REPLACE. LET ME KNOW WHAT THE ISSUE WAS PLEASE. GOOD LUCK
@@kurtsibila9682 two diagnostics and two low coolant sensors, oh and I cleaned out all connections to ecm, it was corroded. And mechanic said it’s most likely the radiator, this was 4 days ago. Now I also had a guy put a new connector on my low coolant sensor before all this started . I’m thinking that might be the problem. Did you only replace the harness to the specific connector where the Bonehead mechanic spliced it? Or all wiring harnesses?
@@kurtsibila9682 on one of my diagnostics the guy checked solenoid, said it was good. My fan is working fine right now but I’m burning fuel. I’m thinking might be ecm as well. I had a overhead done two months ago when I first noticed fuel mileage dropped. But then things have been going a little crazy hear and there.
@@Jesse-pl6hy I did the entire wore harness. A subscriber said to clean the connections on the harness. But I'm sure it was original to the truck. So I just replaced the harness
How hard and costly was it to replace the wiring harness? We have fixed a lot of wires near the ecm but issues still exist. We are thinking there's a fryed wire behind the engine.
IT'S NOT HARD AT ALL. I BOUGHT MINE NEW ON EBAY FOR AROUND 200 DOLLARS. IT TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF. IF U HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL ME 414 477 7845
A wise man told me a long time ago, if it's got tits or tires it's going to cost you a lot of money. Lol! Hope everything works out for ya buddy. Take care and good luck! Can't wait to see the continuation.
Thanks for watching and commenting. A subscriber told me to clean the connections. But I already bought a new harness. And when replacing the harness. I found a broken wire on the old harness. That was the problem all along. LOLOLOLOLOL
These Americans Kurt according to your buddy Joaquin corzo are running 12 v he said get a power wheel n just use a drill converter to 24 v or series battery instead of 12 v he said much faster n gel batteries though lithium ion battery 🔋 last longer but gel anti vibration 📳 🤔 God bless
@@kurtsibila9682 take out the regulator in the alternator God bless with rheostat potential meter up to 70 v instead of 12 v n or 14 16 v etc u want flames out exhaust better have 009 injectors n secondary fuel pump n oil pump next to oil pan wimer fuel system
yes I did. it was a broken wire on the wire harness. I bought a new harness. Thinking it was an old harness. Full of corrosion. And when I got to the last plug at the back of the motor block. I found it. The piece of shit mechanic I had. Broke the wire when he put in the starter in. But instead of pulling the harness out to splice it correctly. He did the splice in the tight area. The connection he made came apart. All the money I spent replacing this and that. It was a broken wire. I had to do the ECM anyway. Because they found a few things not working in the ECM. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks man I am facing that problem right now. What happens to me once my temperature goes to 200 the check engine light comes on my truck goes off. If the engine cools down it will take me another distance again.
@@mohamedbarry6810 Right on. I just sent them another ECM for one of our other trucks. They don't do the lifetime subscription anymore. Bit that's what we paid. To have them dix the ECM. Let me know if it fixes the problem please. Thanks
@@kurtsibila9682 I am in the garage right now but my mechanic use diagnostic computer and it says to change 3 sensors. Oil sensor and others. I drove thousand miles didn't show check engine light. Thanks a lot .
@@kurtsibila9682 On my century both high and low pressure switches are just under the firewall on passenger side right before the refrigerant fill couplings, high pressure is the smaller of the 2 lines. I had to replace the damn line because I couldn't get the switch out without the line twisting..
Hey I’m having the same problem with my 2003 Classic XL. My temperature gauge doesn’t go up even when the engine is warm ed up, my engine fan sometimes shut off sometimes comes on off. So far I have changed the fan solenoid , temp sensor on PS side and ac high pressure sensor switch. I also checked the wiring harness I couldn’t find any broken or corroded wire. My question is did you have problem with the temp gauge as well? Please let me know thanks
I didn't have a problem with the temp. U maybe could change your coolant sensor? It's on the passenger side of the Detroit 60 series. At the rear of the motor. Or it could just be a bad Guage? I've been having some issues with a few Guages. Old trucks are a problem...... LOLOLOLOL. Maybe pull the wire harness? Check for corrosion in the plugs? I bought a new wire harness on ebay for 200 dollars. AC Delco. Call freightliner and they will give u the part number. Then go to ebay or Amazon. To save yourself a lot of money. Thanks for watching. I hope this was helpful?
@@kurtsibila9682 yes sir that’s the first thing I changed but didn’t make any difference, i have got a brand new engine wiring harness from Freightliner will change it tomorrow morning let’s see if that resolves the problem. Thanks for your quick response to my question I really appreciate it thanks
@@baljinderbenipal2663 did u have the ECM diagnosed? If not? Theres a company on Ebay. U buy a subscription for 650 dollars. That's what I did. As soon as u pay the subscription. They Email you a shipping label. U pull out your ECM. Mail it to them. They diagnose the ECM. Fix anything wrong with it. And mail it back to u. It's a lifetime subscription. If u ever have a problem with the ECM. U send it back to them. And they fix it no charge. The turn around time is about 5 days. If u want me to send u the company info? Let me know
@@kurtsibila9682 yes there is that air selenoid, detroit term for the is the fan clutch selenoid. One of the reason for the fan to stay on is when that selenoid fails.
The same thing happened to me and it turned out that there was no current running through the fan solenoid.... I just bypassed it to a place where there is current and problem fixed......
Hey Kurt I'm getting this code 128s021 01 engine position sensor. Sometimes I won't get any start only with starting fluid. Do you have any idea what it could be?
I'm so sorry. I just saw your message. RUclips doesn't send me every message. Check your ECM power cable the goes to the positive side of your battery. Look in your battery box. There's a single wire that powers your ECM. I had a similar problem
@@kurtsibila9682 its cool man. I should have listen to your advice to change out the sensor when changing the air compressor. It turned out to be that sensor. I couldn't get in there but some mechanic somehow snuck his behind the air compressor and changed it in like 10mins
@@kurtsibila9682 when they program the ecm to stock settings.. but I called Diesel ECm in Grand Prairie Texas and they said if I send in the one I have they will send back with everything that’s on the.. Tunning and all. So thank you for referring them on your video.
I would of tracked the light problem wont be related to computer . But short cold be related to other problems. Also speed sensor cleaning rearly works the magnet inside breaks or weirs out. Ac problems could cous fan problem. Computer problems are rear more comen bad ground or high resistence. Check whitj ohm meter hor resistance.
@@alexanderalex6454 I would replace the AC sensor. Go to my latest video. I show where the AC sensor is on my Freightliner. Good luck. If u watch the video. Can u do me a favor. And like the video and subscribe to my channel please
Hey brother here's my number. I can have my wife send me a picture of the company's name and address. I can forward u the info on their card 414 477 7845
yes it was the ECM for the Check Engine Light. They said there was a few blown circuits in the ECM. However it didn't turn the fan off. Which is extremely frustrating. Still trying to figure the fan out. I've changed so many things. There was another sensor i changed. If u have a 60 Series Detroit. There's a fuel regulator sensor on the fuel pump. Which was another trouble shooting idea I was told. It did increase the power and stop some lagging. Once again it didn't turn the fan off. I hope my video helped brother?????
@@user-cv6nc5vn9z when I pulled my ECM I went to eBay and typed in Detroit 60 Series ECM. These companies came up and u can purchase a subscription. I believe mine was 650 Dollars? When u buy the subscription they email u a shipping label. When I pulled my ECM. I put it in a box and mailed it to a place in Texas. They repaired it and had it back to me in a few days. I think total time from Wisconsin to Texas. And then for them to repair it and send it back to me. Was around 5 days which wasn't bad at all. The subscription is for life. If u EVER have an ECM problem with that ECM. They repair it for free. It's a good deal. I'm giving u the company info. www.goecm.com 2610 W Marshall Drive Suite 8 Grand Prairie TC 75051 Phone# 972-602-8100 Good luck.
Go to Ebay and type in Detroit 60 series Ecm, Several companies will come up. The company I chose is in Texas. And the subscription was 650 dollars I believe? U pay the subscription and the email u a shipping receipt. U put your ECM in a box. And put the shipping label on it. When they receive it. They diagnose the problem and fix it. Then they mail it back to u. Thank u for watching. Good luck
The ECM is not the trucks computer. It is the engines computer. It does not control or have anything in common with lights except they all get their power and grounds from the same place.
The computer will play games when it isn’t fed properly. When it can’t determine certain things it will go into kinda a save me mode. I see this is four years old, lol. I guess I’ll jump ahead and see how you made out.
I'm having the same issue as him, can't figure it out. I've changed every sensor and redid all the wiring. I'm about to order a new ECM and pray that it fixes it.
@@JayRossTVision you said wiring? Like you replaced the harness? There are so many possibilities , and it’s been a long time for me. Bottom line is check for codes, check grounds and hots for solid clean contacts. Check ecm input voltage or better do a voltage drop on that circuit. Check ecm grounds. The whine temp gauge and dash gauge are not from the same sensor if my memory is working tonight so changing say one up by the rad header won’t be connected to the engine. Can you get an old reader anywhere? Detroit dealers had them. Real simple, little card like Nintendo for which gen of ddec enter ‘
This and that read this and that. Turn on fan turn off cyl 4. Etc. Hell raise top speed, change hp, check mileage, fuel used since last time. I can’t believe they aren’t out in the public🤔. Maybe all gone, been since ddec v was only a couple years old that I left. I should dust off my ddec iv diagnostic manual and have it around when I see something I think I can help with. Simply been a long time. Was damn good on a 60 mind you, so nice an engine to work on. Hope all find there problems. Those boxes are getting very old and even when they were newer we changed quite a lot. Mind you a lot were warranty for a variety of issues.
Thanks for watching and commenting
A buddy of mine did that same process as far as buying an ecm from a guy in Pennsylvania, he had to send it back twice turned out it was junk. He ended up getting the one at freightliner for $1700 worked fine!
thank u for the input. I parked this truck for a few months. I have to replace the turbo. I have had a lot of ideas to research. As soon as I get it fixed I will do a video on it.
@@kurtsibila9682 oh okay cool if you're still having a problem with that fan my buddy had that problem also, he said check your wiring from the temperature sensor!!
@@beenadickarnold5666 thanks brother. I appreciate
Throwing parts at it is MORE EXPENSIVE than getting a computer to find the actual problem :)
Yeah, the “parts cannon” is not the process of elimination, unless you’re trying to eliminate cash 😅
Just because some light worked when you put them in once upon a time when you installed them doesn’t mean you don’t have a ground problem with something else such as the ecm 😅 Arguing with someone who’s well versed in electronics and trying to help you is a fruitless endeavor, that’s why the guy suggested taking it to freightliner. I would rather you take it down the road too 😅and throwing parts at something isn’t the process of elimination, unless you’re trying to eliminate your money 😅
Yes I agree. That video was year's ago and I have learned so much. Thanks for watching and commenting
It is the harness bro I had same problem had to order the harness since freightliner didn't have them it in stock but all my problems went away when they took out the harness it had salty minerals built up on the connector which caused low voltage and kept the fan on all the time it might work for you also I would say instead of buying a new get it cleaned out and put it back in and see if that helps before waiting 2 weeks for them to ship it out they told me the reason it took longer was because they had to make it first
Salman Pervaiz I just wanted to thank u....... it was the wiring HARNESS. I did a video on it. A mechanic that is no longer with us. Installed a starter. He broke the wire and spliced it. And when I was tracking the HARNESS. I saw the broken wire. I could have respliced the wire. But I figured we have done everything else. Might as well replace the HARNESS. Thanks again
Which harness? There are several. Can you name the one you replaced?
Where is your harness replacement video
Mechanic told me it’s the loose screw between steering wheel and driver’s seat that’s how I ended up in jail after knocking his ass out with couple punches
LOLOLOLOL
@@kurtsibila9682 shoulda seen his face when he woke up looking around crying like a little bitch with a big mouth that was even funnier than his little smartass remark
@@garykeenan3724 I would have loved to see his face. Fucking mechanics....... Think they are so smart. And God's gift to this world. Can't stand mechanics
@@kurtsibila9682 there are smart good technicians but when your losing money down time and expensive parts/ money not in the mood for bullshit from someone that’s suppose to help you not insult you ya do believe was worth couple days in jail!!!
@@garykeenan3724 EXACTLY
CHECK POWER TO GROUND FIRST ....BEFORE REMOVING ECM
I’m having some of the same issues as you except with less fault codes. My engine fan had stayed on for two days, my check engine light comes on as well the shutdown light. My gauges are good, voltage, good. Water temperature good. I stuck my finger in coolant reservoir and did not burn off..🧐🧐 so I’m good, except some of the weird stuff happening. Changed low coolant sensor twice, because two different computer diagnostics said so and still same issue. Have not noticed to much loss of power but my fuel mileage is killing me. 5.1 mpg empty with a 7 car cotrell.
I HAD MY FAN STAY ON FOR MONTHS. NOBODY COULD FIGURE IT OUT. TRIES EVERYTHING. THEN I ORDERED THR WIRE HARNESS. I WAS TO THE VERY LAST PLUG. WHEN I FOUND THE BROKEN WIRE. I WAS SO ANGRY. BECAUSE THIS SHIT BAG MECHANIC AT MY SHOP. PUT IN A STARTER. HIS ASS BROKE THE WIRE. AND INSTEAD OF PULLING THE HARNESS OUT. TO DO THE SPLICE. HE DID THE SPLICE IN THE TIGHTEST PLACE POSSIBLE. AND THE SPLICE CONNECTION BROKE FREE. SO THE WHOLE TIME IT WAS JUST A BROKEN WIRE. HOWEVER THE ECM DID NEED TO BE REPAIRED. IT IS STILL WORKING LIKE THE DAY I PUT IT BACK IN. I RECOMMEND SENDING ECM IN. BUT FIRST INSTALL A NEW WIRE HARNESS. IT WAS 200 DOLLARS. IF U STILL HAVE TGE FAN ON? THEN SEND THE ECM IN. U DID CHANGE THE AIR SOLENOID YES? THAT'S THE VERY FIRST THING U WANT TO REPLACE. LET ME KNOW WHAT THE ISSUE WAS PLEASE. GOOD LUCK
@@kurtsibila9682 will respond when I’m not driving
@@kurtsibila9682 two diagnostics and two low coolant sensors, oh and I cleaned out all connections to ecm, it was corroded. And mechanic said it’s most likely the radiator, this was 4 days ago. Now I also had a guy put a new connector on my low coolant sensor before all this started . I’m thinking that might be the problem. Did you only replace the harness to the specific connector where the Bonehead mechanic spliced it? Or all wiring harnesses?
@@kurtsibila9682 on one of my diagnostics the guy checked solenoid, said it was good. My fan is working fine right now but I’m burning fuel. I’m thinking might be ecm as well. I had a overhead done two months ago when I first noticed fuel mileage dropped. But then things have been going a little crazy hear and there.
@@Jesse-pl6hy I did the entire wore harness. A subscriber said to clean the connections on the harness. But I'm sure it was original to the truck. So I just replaced the harness
How hard and costly was it to replace the wiring harness? We have fixed a lot of wires near the ecm but issues still exist. We are thinking there's a fryed wire behind the engine.
IT'S NOT HARD AT ALL. I BOUGHT MINE NEW ON EBAY FOR AROUND 200 DOLLARS. IT TOOK ME ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF. IF U HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE CALL ME 414 477 7845
A wise man told me a long time ago, if it's got tits or tires it's going to cost you a lot of money. Lol!
Hope everything works out for ya buddy. Take care and good luck!
Can't wait to see the continuation.
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL nice one....... I found the problem. It was a broken wire on the wire harness
@@kurtsibila9682 where in the harnessing did you find the broken cable ?
My cell is 13238792271
@@kurtsibila9682 where in the harness did you find the break? How thorough were you when looking for it?
Make sure you unplug connection from computer and clean regressed them and check it
Thanks for watching and commenting. A subscriber told me to clean the connections. But I already bought a new harness. And when replacing the harness. I found a broken wire on the old harness. That was the problem all along. LOLOLOLOLOL
Hi Kurt. Your video was very helpful. Just out of curiosity, what's the year and model of this truck you had the problems on?
Thanks for watching and commenting. It's a 2001 Freightliner Century Class.
@@kurtsibila9682 Okay. So it's pre-egr/dpf/def.
@@johncalvo1743 yes sir pre egr and def
Did you receive your ecu back
Voltage ⚡ booster n a chip in the ECM analog device God bless
A/C high pressure switch could make the fan run all the time
These Americans Kurt according to your buddy Joaquin corzo are running 12 v he said get a power wheel n just use a drill converter to 24 v or series battery instead of 12 v he said much faster n gel batteries though lithium ion battery 🔋 last longer but gel anti vibration 📳 🤔 God bless
Thanks for watching and commenting
@@kurtsibila9682 take out the regulator in the alternator God bless with rheostat potential meter up to 70 v instead of 12 v n or 14 16 v etc u want flames out exhaust better have 009 injectors n secondary fuel pump n oil pump next to oil pan wimer fuel system
Did you got rid of the problem changing the ECM? or it was something else?
yes I did. it was a broken wire on the wire harness. I bought a new harness. Thinking it was an old harness. Full of corrosion. And when I got to the last plug at the back of the motor block. I found it. The piece of shit mechanic I had. Broke the wire when he put in the starter in. But instead of pulling the harness out to splice it correctly. He did the splice in the tight area. The connection he made came apart. All the money I spent replacing this and that. It was a broken wire. I had to do the ECM anyway. Because they found a few things not working in the ECM. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks man I am facing that problem right now. What happens to me once my temperature goes to 200 the check engine light comes on my truck goes off. If the engine cools down it will take me another distance again.
is your motor constantly doing this? Running hot
@@kurtsibila9682 it started 3 days ago. I contacted grand prairie Texas yesterday , I will send it tomorrow for 890.00
@@mohamedbarry6810 Right on. I just sent them another ECM for one of our other trucks. They don't do the lifetime subscription anymore. Bit that's what we paid. To have them dix the ECM. Let me know if it fixes the problem please. Thanks
@@kurtsibila9682 I am in the garage right now but my mechanic use diagnostic computer and it says to change 3 sensors. Oil sensor and others. I drove thousand miles didn't show check engine light.
Thanks a lot .
High pressure switch on the AC could cost the fan to stay on.
Thank u. Do u know where the switch is located? I appreciate the help.
@@kurtsibila9682 On my century both high and low pressure switches are just under the firewall on passenger side right before the refrigerant fill couplings, high pressure is the smaller of the 2 lines. I had to replace the damn line because I couldn't get the switch out without the line twisting..
Also how is your truck running after you refurbished your ecm. ?
How has things worked out? Are you satisfied??
Yes I am very satisfied. Thanks for watching. However...... it was the ECM plus a broken wire harness
Hey I’m having the same problem with my 2003 Classic XL. My temperature gauge doesn’t go up even when the engine is warm ed up, my engine fan sometimes shut off sometimes comes on off. So far I have changed the fan solenoid , temp sensor on PS side and ac high pressure sensor switch. I also checked the wiring harness I couldn’t find any broken or corroded wire. My question is did you have problem with the temp gauge as well? Please let me know thanks
I didn't have a problem with the temp. U maybe could change your coolant sensor? It's on the passenger side of the Detroit 60 series. At the rear of the motor. Or it could just be a bad Guage? I've been having some issues with a few Guages. Old trucks are a problem...... LOLOLOLOL. Maybe pull the wire harness? Check for corrosion in the plugs? I bought a new wire harness on ebay for 200 dollars. AC Delco. Call freightliner and they will give u the part number. Then go to ebay or Amazon. To save yourself a lot of money. Thanks for watching. I hope this was helpful?
@@kurtsibila9682 yes sir that’s the first thing I changed but didn’t make any difference, i have got a brand new engine wiring harness from Freightliner will change it tomorrow morning let’s see if that resolves the problem. Thanks for your quick response to my question I really appreciate it thanks
@@baljinderbenipal2663 u are very welcome. Here's my cell number 414 477 7845. If u ever have any questions? Let me know of the harness works brother.
Ok so I changed the engine harness this morning but didn’t change anything, I’m going to have to take it to good mechanic to get it fixed.
@@baljinderbenipal2663 did u have the ECM diagnosed? If not? Theres a company on Ebay. U buy a subscription for 650 dollars. That's what I did. As soon as u pay the subscription. They Email you a shipping label. U pull out your ECM. Mail it to them. They diagnose the ECM. Fix anything wrong with it. And mail it back to u. It's a lifetime subscription. If u ever have a problem with the ECM. U send it back to them. And they fix it no charge. The turn around time is about 5 days. If u want me to send u the company info? Let me know
Try the fan clutch solenoid.
The fan clutch is good. It moves freely when the key is on. And doesn't move freely when the key is off. Can the solenoid still be bad?
I did change the air solenoid on the fire wall driver's side. Is that the fan solenoid u are talking about? I appreciate the input
@@kurtsibila9682 yes there is that air selenoid, detroit term for the is the fan clutch selenoid. One of the reason for the fan to stay on is when that selenoid fails.
Is on the hi side of the ac line my was the that and the harness was bad.
Did you ever get the fan situation fixed
Yes I did. It was a broken wire on the harness. It was at the back of the motor on the driver's side. I replaced the entire wiring harness
The same thing happened to me and it turned out that there was no current running through the fan solenoid.... I just bypassed it to a place where there is current and problem fixed......
It ended up being the wiring harness
But that was a GREAT IDEA to bypass it
@@kurtsibila9682 yes I have not had any problems with it and the fan works just fine I have a 2007 freightliner century Detroit 60 14L
How does the sylanoid knows when to open and shut off or you have it manual on switch?
Hey Kurt I'm getting this code 128s021 01 engine position sensor. Sometimes I won't get any start only with starting fluid. Do you have any idea what it could be?
I'm so sorry. I just saw your message. RUclips doesn't send me every message. Check your ECM power cable the goes to the positive side of your battery. Look in your battery box. There's a single wire that powers your ECM. I had a similar problem
@@kurtsibila9682 its cool man. I should have listen to your advice to change out the sensor when changing the air compressor. It turned out to be that sensor. I couldn't get in there but some mechanic somehow snuck his behind the air compressor and changed it in like 10mins
@@nba3512 OH WOW...... GOOD DEAL BROTHER. Very lucky. Thanks for watching. Take care
🤗
When you got your ecm back did you have to take it to Freightliner to get it flashed?
No I didn't. They didn't say anything like that. I just put it in. And everything was cool
What exactly is flashing the ECM?
@@kurtsibila9682 when they program the ecm to stock settings.. but I called Diesel ECm in Grand Prairie Texas and they said if I send in the one I have they will send back with everything that’s on the.. Tunning and all. So thank you for referring them on your video.
@@kurtsibila9682 thank you.
@@Jesse-pl6hy Thanks for explaining. Good luck. Let me know how everything works out please
I would of tracked the light problem wont be related to computer . But short cold be related to other problems. Also speed sensor cleaning rearly works the magnet inside breaks or weirs out. Ac problems could cous fan problem. Computer problems are rear more comen bad ground or high resistence. Check whitj ohm meter hor resistance.
Thank u for the info
thank u for the info. I will check it out
Hello ozzie my truck everytime I turn ac engine fan keeps on until I turn it off any suggestion? Thx
@@alexanderalex6454 I would replace the AC sensor. Go to my latest video. I show where the AC sensor is on my Freightliner. Good luck. If u watch the video. Can u do me a favor. And like the video and subscribe to my channel please
@@alexanderalex6454 dont turn ac on. Your kidding or i didnt get the question.
Hey buddy you have to share the link for the ecm dammit
Hey brother here's my number. I can have my wife send me a picture of the company's name and address. I can forward u the info on their card 414 477 7845
Hello my speed gauage is not accurate. When am doing 70 on the gauage the GPS said am doing 66miles what do you think is the problem
YOUR SPEEDOMETER MIGHT BE GOING BAD. IS THE ONLY THING I CAN THINK OF. WHAT YEAR IS YOUR TRUCK? IF IT'S AN OLD TRUCK? IT'S PROBABLY THE SPEEDOMETER
@@kurtsibila9682 2007 freightliner century series 60 engine
Gear ratios and or drive tire manufacturer and size are not entered correctly into ecm.
Can you send me the company’s name that fixed your computer? Thanks I’m having similar issues.
Where the a/c dryer on my 07 century
Great thanks
Hey brother, was it the ecm all along ?
yes it was the ECM for the Check Engine Light. They said there was a few blown circuits in the ECM. However it didn't turn the fan off. Which is extremely frustrating. Still trying to figure the fan out. I've changed so many things. There was another sensor i changed. If u have a 60 Series Detroit. There's a fuel regulator sensor on the fuel pump. Which was another trouble shooting idea I was told. It did increase the power and stop some lagging. Once again it didn't turn the fan off. I hope my video helped brother?????
@@kurtsibila9682 thanks for the reply. mine wont start and was told it was the ecm. Going to pull her out and get it check out.
@@user-cv6nc5vn9z when I pulled my ECM I went to eBay and typed in Detroit 60 Series ECM. These companies came up and u can purchase a subscription. I believe mine was 650 Dollars? When u buy the subscription they email u a shipping label. When I pulled my ECM. I put it in a box and mailed it to a place in Texas. They repaired it and had it back to me in a few days. I think total time from Wisconsin to Texas. And then for them to repair it and send it back to me. Was around 5 days which wasn't bad at all. The subscription is for life. If u EVER have an ECM problem with that ECM. They repair it for free. It's a good deal. I'm giving u the company info. www.goecm.com
2610 W Marshall Drive Suite 8
Grand Prairie TC 75051
Phone# 972-602-8100
Good luck.
Change the wire harness guaranteed fix
@@MegaPimp31 there's a few. Anyone in particular? Probably wise to just change all.
I thought Dana White was speaking?
????????
Do you have the shop info?
Go to Ebay and type in Detroit 60 series Ecm, Several companies will come up. The company I chose is in Texas. And the subscription was 650 dollars I believe? U pay the subscription and the email u a shipping receipt. U put your ECM in a box. And put the shipping label on it. When they receive it. They diagnose the problem and fix it. Then they mail it back to u. Thank u for watching. Good luck
@@kurtsibila9682 is the truck still alive? Has the delete had any major effects on the engine?
@@RADIORAHEEM402 everything works as it should
TA sucks from the word go !!!!!!
ABSOLUTELY thanks for watching
Why video says ecm.what a bs
If u have questions on an ECM? JUST ASK....... Don't come on.my channel talking shit. I did a few videos on an ECM
Mine did same thing. Changed ecm for 1800 and paid 500 yo program