redline is literally meant to be bounced off lmao. Makes absolutely no sense to say what he said. Proves the yammy noob downfall this guy been experiencing since covid.
1) Let your bike warm up before ripping on it. 2) Keep up with your maintenance. 3) Use full synthetic oem spec oil. 4) Use high octane gas in newer sport bikes. 5) Keep the bike stock engine wise. 6) Don't run your bike at or near redline to avoid valve float. 7) Drain bike fluids before long term storage.
@@PChelpism Valve float is when you rev your engine so high that your valves are moving faster than your valve springs can return them to their original position on the camshaft. This is only something to worry about if your ecu has been modified. Stock motorcycle ecu's will automatically restrict the rpms to just before redline even if you bounce off the limiter.
Just had the 7500 mile maintenance done on my Ninja 400...after riding it hard two track days. Have always used high test gas though not called for...for the detergent value alone....3 times that in Regular. New 636 in the works for next year.
I am about to buy a motorcycle that has been stored for 5 years, I am certain that the previous owner didn't remove the fluids. What should I do when I get it?
Just rolled over 85k miles on my 08 Kawasaki ZX6R. Put gas in it, changed the oil, fed it tires. Still going strong as my daily commuter, and only form of motorized transportation.
Those small engines can rev extremely high because the moving components are extremely light weight so no worries. I feel bad for you guys in Europe with those ridiculous regulations. IMO 300 cc bike are less dangerous because they can accelerate fast enough to keep up with other vehicular traffic and maintain adequate speed when ascending changes in elevation. Nothing is more dangerous than an impatient motorists behind a motorcycle.
Hey bro, a Honda 125cc/150cc is a tank of a motorcycle, those engines run great while 100% twisting the cable all the times, even when having crappy fuel in it.
Draining the oil when you store it is basically THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO. Replace it with fresh oil, then store it. Everything that's covered in oil, can't rust. If you're storing for a very long time (think several years) fill up the engine to the brim before putting it away. Otherwise you risk getting rust pitting in the cams, valvestems and more. Just remember to drain the excess oil and clean everything before starting it again.
@@AkaBull clean it, replace the oil, disconnect the battery (hooking it to a trickle charger would be even better) and either drain the entire fuel system or completely flush it with low ethanol fuel and top off the tank. If you have a carburetor, it's better to drain the bowl regardless. The owner's manual of my bike also recommends taking out the sparkplug, pouring some oil in the combustion chamber and cranking it over for a couple seconds. But I think that that's just a two-stroke thing. Almost forgot: clean and lube your chain
@@TDG2654 I just bought the 21 low rider s so I'm fuel injection, and belt driven. So advice thanks Robin. I'll be definitely cleaning her before storage, may even wipe her down with oil where I think she may pick up rust. I'm not to sure what I'll do with the fuel tank yet tho, may drain it, may top it off with an addictive 🤷♂️
As for letting the engine warm up, you don't need to stay still until it reaches operating temp. Just keep the rpm low, like under 4500, until it's operating temp.
45 seconds or so to let oil fill all spots of engine they like you said keep it down rpm wise until warm theyn ride it like you stole it, my old ninja 600 60k that way not one thing ever broke
As a beginner rider on a 1970s East German 2 stroke ‘simson’ motorbike I can confidently say that it only hits the redline when I accidentally shift into neutral instead of 2nd. 😁
Same , but im used to it , you should let it go down the rpms so you can shift smoothly (btw i have a 1970 bmw r75/6 us spec) , becomes annoying when going full throttle between 3rd/4rd and 5th though
I used to live in Pennsylvania and when the winters came I wouldn't drain the fluids to store it because I would start it once or twice a week and let it run for like 10 minutes. Never had any issues with that.
@@HobbiesWithMike That's good. You don't drain anything. You store it with a full tank and fresh engine oil. The only thing you can take out is the battery to store it in a warm room and recharge it every month or so.
If you read some manufactures handbooks they actually recommend warming the bike up by riding it in low rpm, helps to distribute the fluids nice and evenly :)
It's actually the right way to warm a bike. You ride it but keep it at low RPM... That way, as you said, the oil will get distributed in every corner, but the tire will warm up too, and the clutch/gears as well.
@@Mike_Papa Dont overdo it on low RPM's tho, lugging is also bad. I think you are right tho, warm it up by being it that zone where it spins freely and dont put too much load on it until its warm, will 100% keep your engine in better shape.
@@Surpriseify when I mean low RPM I mean I keep it at around 4k. My Rev is at 12 and my optimal RPM is 7-8k so I just don't push it. But yeah being too low too long isn't good either. The main thing is to warm the tires as well, especially if you ride in the cold.
I always just idle my bike everytime for 5 to 10 minutes before I ride it, safer that way. Or you can do both idle for a few minutes, then ride it slow.
yep. my s1000r BMW specifically states, DO NOT let the bike sit at idle on the stand to warm up. You should start then ride it at reasonable RPM's until temp is at operating temp.
Please, for the love of all things holy, do NOT drain the engine oil. This will only make it rust faster. Ensure the oil in it is less than a year old, and roll your bike around in gear every few months. Oil stops rust. Why would you want to drain it
Yeah.....didn't quite get that part. I totally agree with don't ride in the rain, then immediately cover it up while it's all soaking wet, but IDK why you'd want to drain anything other than maybe the tank (and that only if you can make sure you get ALL of the gas out).
The reason why you would drain engine oil and I see this a lot with our trucks, is that oil is acidic. The additives in engine oil reduce the acidity of the oil, however, oil does not like to be mixed. It may mix for a month or so but after that period, the additives will seperate from the oil. Only two ways to prevent this: start the engine or Darin the oil. The reason why the acidic nature is bad is because of your engine seals. The oil will eat them away.
I have 80k miles on my '05 Yammie FZ6 - oil changes every 5K (Silkolene 10w/30) updated (new) front/rear break master-cylinders w/ fluid change every other year - new LED lights all around - 50/50 coolant keeps her happy - running E-Free 89oct here in Hawaii, w/ occasional SeaFoam - bike runs great! That new clutch I installed, is really crisp too :) Stay Awesome Out There! Thanks for all of your useful content !!
almost like a 'Yota (almost) - stay on top of the fluid intervals, keep the routine maintenance up, new tires every so often and bada bing, smiles for miles :)
Warm up recommendation only applies to warming it up before higher loads. Most motorcycles, especially newer ones, will have a recommendation in their service manuals not to warm it up before ride as it might increase buildup of different sorts and rather drive it off without stressing it. Just my two cents.
Additionally, pressures are pretty low when idling, which means your piston rings don't seal quite as well as when you're under even a little bit of power. If you didn't break your engine in correctly (and let's face it - even if you did) that'll lead to oil dilution. The reason is two-fold. On top of the poor seal, your bike also runs rich while it's cold to make up for fuel condensing on the cylinder walls. That leaves a ready supply of liquid fuel in the best location to get past the rings and mix with your oil. No es bueno! Let's be clear, you'll get that when the engine is cold regardless, but if you're just sitting there idling you get much more of it and the engine warms up slower. Fortunately, modern engines have a neat way of getting rid of oil dilution - crankcase ventilation. Basically, once your oil is up to temperature, it's hot enough to evaporate all the fuel, which in turn gets sucked into the intake and burnt away in the cylinder. But that only works when your engine gets hot and it takes a while to evaporate all of it. This is why when you open the oil filler cap on an engine (car or bike) that's only used for short periods it smells of fuel. It's not supposed to, but it never gets the chance to get rid of that fuel. If the problem is serious enough, you'll notice the oil level rising over time. If you do, and you take regular long-ish trips (oil stays hot for at least 30 minutes), then there's another problem which must be addressed. In the meantime you ought to reduce your oil change interval to half or a quarter of the manufacturer's recommendation, else the dilution can cause engine damage.
@@MH-cv5ye The more time the engine spend not in the working temperature, the more it will tear. So it's better for the health of engine to start it and then go riding at low rpms.
@@TheMatti36 Due to my daily ride being a big 1000cc V twin with open exhausts i can`t let her warm up for 5 minutes anyway when i need to leave for work at 5:30 in the morning... The neighbours would kill me. I just start the thing and ride it at round 2/3000 rpm till it wants to idle without the choke which takes about 3 to 4 minutes before i join the highway and open the throttle. I always wondered if i was damaging or shortening the life span of my bike but it seems the general idea is that i`m actually doing the best i can for the engine?
After years of watching this channel, I can finally watch this video and think to myself "I have a bike." I really hope the rest of you who are waiting and/or unable to pull the trigger finally get that bike this upcoming year.
I had that feeling prior to this year. Picked up an 06 Ninja 250 for $800 at the beginning of the season. I'll be keeping it until tax time and then sell it for something more modern. Probably an MT-03.
If you're forced to ride with too low of an octane fuel, you should actually keep the revs up and the throttle (and thus load) low. Preignition is most likely to happen at low engine speeds and high load, so you should avoid that operating condition. This is because low engine speed creates more time during compression, before the spark fires, providing more time for the fuel air mix to heat up and potentially pre-ignite. High load also creates higher pressures, density and internal temperatures, adding to the preignition potential.
On modern engines, low octane isn't as much of a problem. They have knock sensors detect preignition and loosen spark timing, reducing preignition at the cost of power. Still best to run premium if it needs it though.
I might disagree on dry storage and suggest that you top everything off to eliminate air in the systems. Oil would get extra quarts and treated fuel to the max level. Heating and cooling on any vented system allows air (moisture) to possibly enter over time. Even better to not store and just ride all year.
i'm gonna remember to ride this winter when it gets to -15c and the rods are covered in snow.. obviusly the best would be to ride all year but for some parts of the world its just not possible :/
@@christianjohnsen105 It's possible... JUST A LOT more trouble than it might be worth. You'll need a "semi temperature controlled" storage area for the bike, where you can keep it above the oil's congealing temperature (which is different for viscosity ratings)... Do the warm-up phase in that storage area (so it has to be well ventilated) and then ride the 15 to 30 minutes once a week or so for "maintenance". You'll still have to be aware of issues like cold tires and ride gently, but it's still do-able... It can just be so much more trouble, you're probably better advised to stabilize and store it a few months instead. If you're in an area prone to a lot of ice and snow, snow tires CAN also be found, but do you REALLY need two sets of rims for one bike??? It's all about how far YOU are willing to take it. ;o)
Exactly, do like you said. If interested in motorcycles, cars and travelling, go and check my content. You may like it. :) Thanks for taking your time.
I used to do the proper break in with every new bike I would get. My last new R1 and CBR1000RR I just immediately road it like I stole it. No problems and the interesting thing is alot of racers do this same thing and recommend it. My new bike I'm getting I'm flying to Denver to get and riding home. Definitely not breaking that in "properly".
Running up to redline occasionally isn't necessarily a bad thing. I run my current car up to 8k+ fairly frequently. It has over 200k miles on it and it doesn't use any measurable amount of oil. I once had another car with a very similar engine that had half as many miles and burned almost as much oil as gas. It was owned by an elderly couple that drove it like they were driving Ms Daisy. They sold it to a 20 year old who revved it like it was designed to be and wiped out the oil rings because the Pistons actually travel a bit further at high rpm. Manufacturers put the redline where they do for a reason and they take valve float into account.
my opel has 500k miles on factory engine ran it 1.5k-2.5k all the time on highway 4.5k rpm, started to use oil lately, changed piston rings each 120k-200k miles how its normal for them to last, got a toyota with 140k miles bought it with 120k miles ma lil toyota had 2 broken piston rings and 1 exterminated ran without missing a beat for 8k miles sometimes didnt use a bit of oil sometimes used 1 litre per 1k miles i then opened the engine and renewed it now it runs good and doesnt consume oil, new chain gaskets and piston rings and engine is like new, piston rings last around 120k miles also driving litely affects their life proper warm up cool down helps, engine had massive amounts of carbon before i repaired it 1st owner didnt take a lot of care about it,close to redline kills the engine especialy if high mileage and old factory parts, but yea you can rev it hard without breaking the engine but not exagerated
Congratulations brother, be safe out there man, and keep your eyes on a swivel, shit can go wrong real quick. These new drivers and their cell phones, texting and driving.
AND contrary to popular belief and the labels on the products in question, you most certainly CAN invent problems "over-dosing" with those ethanol treatment chemicals on your bike. It can cause shellacking in the tank and fuel system all the way through (which is actually easier to deal with in a carburetor) and it DOES deteriorate over time... reducing volatility and "fire power" you get for the fuel. ;o)
7:16 nah yam yam, gotta have that ridiculously loud exsaust at minimum. Just to make sure your neighbors hate you just enough that they don't come over and ask for favors or help.
My zxr400 has spent most of the last 20k miles of its life above 10,000 revs .... Still good as new inside the engine. I'm never scared to rev any bike, I always avoid the rev limiter though, there's never any need to hit the limiter.
6:40 (German) I only put Premium fluids in my vehicles, my cars engine had to be dropped out arround the 160k km mark, due to the timing chain making funny noises. They also checked for carbon buildup and wear on other internal engine parts, since it was already out. The engine looked like new and had only a little carbon on the Air sensor, which buffled them, since cars with that distance usually are pretty plugged with carbon. My car also pulls better than my fathers, who got the LCI of mine, with a few moree HP.. He likes to go cheap and already got issues due to carbon buildup, with less km on it. There might be a lot more factors that should be considered, but for me it is sort of an indication, that their shit actually works.
Even before thw GSXR went to liquid cooling, Cycle World, for a torture test, had one run at WOT for 24 hours straight. After the 24 hours, the engine was torn down. There was no discernible wear whatsoever, even after screaming into redline for the whole time. And that was with the old air-and-oil cooled configuration.
YAM, I only put ethanol free gas in my bike year round. It's never seen ethanol gas because of my experience with boat engines and the nightmare it causes there with 100 gallons in the tank. Thanks for the content, great stuff!
Ethanol is fine if you ride regularly. For storage it's better to use ethanol free gas but it still goes bad fairly quickly. Best for long term storage is to use the fuel from those metal cans they sell. That stuff stays good much longer. Check out project farm, he did some tests.
man oh man the punishment my first 50cc took popped the spark plug red lining the crap out of it, falls doing off road and then finally hitting a object in the road made me do a front flip with the bike only to have it land on me.... came of with no injuries defo used one on my nine lives after that the police collected it and impounded it, then I paid for release and it was never seen again
Best end fact ever! Also, extremely informative for a newer rider. I needed to know a few of these. Others applied similarly to the humvees we had in the army
The number 1 tip: The bike warmup. regulating the oil is not too true, because the moment you open the bike it immediately distributes the oil in seconds. what you're really warming up is the whole engine, and yes, the oil. you're making the engine ready for the massive amount of heat that is about to be produced, in this way you're preventing the engine from sudden heat that could potentially break parts from thermal expansion
Allowing an engine to warm up to operating temperature ensures that the internal clearances are at specification as a result of thermal expansion. It also ensures that the oil is functioning optimally within its designed temperature range.
I don't drain all fluids from my motorcycle during the winter break, I change the oil, fill the tank to the brim, spray some WD 40 into the exhaust and close the pipe with two rags, remove the battery and store it in the basement with a battery monitor. At the end I put the bike on the center stand and use an additional wooden support to ensure that both wheels are in the air. My motorcycle has been with the same engine for 42 years. If you ask, it's a Yamaha XJ 750 Seca This year I gave it to an old friend who always wanted it and switched to a FJR 1300
nah, warmup can be done while riding. Just keep rpm's low. This way it warms up faster anyways and you're not wasting fuel. Some bikes will never warm up when you let it idle, definitely not to 160f
Three to four minutes of warmup without riding is ridiculous, also the heath will build up a lot faster than it would if you were just riding it without revving it too much.
@@azr2d1 Having an oil temperature gauge is a big help here. Tempted to put one on my little 125 if I find a neat way of doing it without cutting or drilling into anything.
My family was in oil business for 30 years .Little known fact is Gasoline additives are used to raise octane as raw/virgin gasoline which is only around 70 octane. These additives vaporize out of raw gasoline very quickly so go to gas station that sells alot of product.
Which makes sense. The whole point of stabilizer is because of the ethanol in fuel to begin with. If you use ethanol free gas, then there's no ethanol to need stabilizer for.
I idle my chainsaw to run out all of the fuel so it doesn't turn into 2 stroke varnish in the carburetor when it's stored for 3 years, but when storing my bike for 3-4 months for the winter, I fill the tank to prevent air in the tank from expanding and contracting with every daily thermal cycle, which sucks air into the fuel tank and condenses the water in that air. There is no need for fuel stabilizer for a few months of storage.
Mine is a 33 year old Katana 1100 with 115,000km on it. Being about the 7th owner I'm assuming the bike's had a hard life, and yet it's still pretty decent. I'm in the process of trying to sell it because we're leaving the Canada for warmer places (The Philippines) and that old Suzuki will be on to owner number 8.
I would add one more thing to do. 8) Wash your bike regularly. - I don't mean detail it like an obsessed Harley guy with a can of Chrome polish but a bucket of water and a sponge and a hose. The reason, is that by washing you actually will put your eyeballs on areas of the bike you don't normally see. It often can let you see a problem forming before it becomes a big problem (Loose bolts, oil leaks etc etc)
Old bikes definitely can benefit from high octane gas, older engines tend to have more miles and more miles can mean “hotspots” in the combustion chamber.
Along with buying good oil, buy good oil filters. Avoid the cheap garbage filters. Think of good oil and oil filters as cheap insurance for your bike’s engine.
I ride a 2009 harley dyna. Its my only vehicle and I always let it idle till the high rpm slows down to normal which is about 30 seconds and then I drive gently for a mile before I pin it.
@@deangruwell6555 ive heard people talk about it but I've never had it. I hear its from a flexing in the frame but im a light 145lbs and maybe thats something that only happens to heavy riders or maybe the previous owner fixed it. I bought it with 40k miles
Yammie: "Never redline it!" *Looks at my '89 CBR that I ride to the rev limiter every single time I get a red light* Or maybe you could just maintain it properly and still have fun with the bike. You really can have your cake and eat it too
Hi Yammie, Thank you for your excellent choice of background music (Nocturne No.2, Opus 9 by Chopin for those who don't know it and are interested); it makes such a pleasant change from the heavy guitar fare typical of other videos. Who is the pianist? I suspect that many viewers won't have noticed the music and might now watch again. I also recommend Rubinstein's interpretations of the piece (also available on RUclips).
Its fun the talk about Octan, here in Denmark Low octane gas is 92, and most people in normal cars and stuff runs 95. Didnt even know they sold it lower than 90 Octane in Murikaaa
87 murica=92 europ, 91 murika=95 europ different measurement both use minimum mainly 91=95 murika sometimes has 87, and like murika 93-95= europ 98-102
I've heard the same thing suggested for all motors. Riding/driving away at very low rpm and load (for the first couple minutes) warms the motor much faster than simply idling it, and warming up faster is supposedly more beneficial to the motor than idling it with zero load 'till warm. -- Of course the main lesson is the same. Warm the bike before working it; warm thoroughly before thrashing.
carburetor bikes don't run right till they are warm, no fancy shut-offs or self-control is needed. itl just bog till shes warmed up, also the cause of may jetting headaches. also just run the gas that the owner's manual says, you might be surprised at what it says. my fz6 witch has the same motor as an early r6 calls for 87 for example.
You do realize that the redline and even the factory rev limiter (which is usually above the redline) still actually have a certain amount or percentage of safe operating limits built into them right? Bikes leave the factory with this extra margin of safety built in so that the motors will not become hand grenades and need warranty replacements. Even most aftermarket CDI boxes allow the raising of the point where the rev limiter kicks in and raising it on most bikes by 1000-1500 rpms higher causes no engine issues on sport bikes anyway. Secret is knowing where the power and torque start dropping off in the rpm range on your particular engine as generally running the revs past that point gains nothing in performance. Another one that draining the oil for a winter storage is not the smartest, although changing the oil and filter before you put it away is a good idea. Also when you start your bike ALWAYS run it til it is at full operating temps to prevent creating condensation that does not get dried up before you shut the bike down. And yes store with the fuel tank FULL of treated non ethanol fuel.
YO, I got a brand new 2019 CB1000-R, after first 600 miles i did an oil change with Castrol Actevo 10w30 & OEM Honda Filter, i flushed the OEM coolant & replaced it with Engine ice. After the next Three 3000 miles oil Changes with Castrol Actevo & OEM Honda filters I have a Large Stock of Motul 7100 4T 10w40 and K&N 204 oil filtrs for the rest of my motorcycle's life 😎 and For Fuel, i am always at Costco pumps with Their premium. I Noticed that my Bike cranks up better/QUICKER with Costco's Premium Fuel in comparison to Shell's.
I used to have a suzuki gsx250f with about 135,000 km on the clock. When I bounced it off the rev limiter at 16,500 rpm all it would do is blow a little smoke and misfire a bit. Tough as nails that old thing.
Had a Honda Varadero 125 from new up to 93,000 miles and the only way to ride them is hit that redline it in every gear and use fifth as an overdrive! Once kicked down from fifth to fourth as i came into a bend doing 60mph and bang..... i was actually in fourth gear kicking down to third and snapped a rocker arm. Quickly repaired and back on the road, redline and all.
Wow. Warm ups number 1? Hell yeah! Proper! 40+ year mechanic speaking here. Hot pistons, cold cylinders; hot valves, cold valve guides mean metal grinds away permanently. Warm ups save all engines. Period.
During winter to keep the bike fresh, I just ride it for 60-90 minutes on 50mph roads once every 3-4 weeks. A matter of putting on extra warm clothes and duke it out until the bike's good and warm again. It has kept everything fresh that otherwise would rot during a 3 month storage and ensured my bike's always stayed fine in 15 years of riding. What also helps is a good fresh tank of fuel in the middle of winter to break up the season into 1 month intervals, so there's never any fuel going bad. Same with an oil change when due and chain lube.
Idk about tip number one, the oil pump will distribute the oil immediately when the pump is turned over even from cranking. Viscosity of oil is actually thicker when it’s cold vs when it’s warm. Letting it sit for 5 min will do nothing different than if you let it sit for 30 sec or even 15 sec after starting. Nooooo don’t do dry storage
The metal won't be at the correct dimensions, its really not so much spreading the oil (though its lubrication value I think does go down when its cold), its more the valves/piston are at incorrect dimensions and will therefore wiggle more and scrape things up. Some engines you can really hear a horrible nocking sound until they warm.
'' It will last forever'' UNLESS its a BMW or an Italian one or an American one. Nothing can produce reliability put of unreliable machines with 2 wheels. Japan for the Win
@@azr2d1 i mean sure some may go there (mainly the Adv ones) but generally the BMWs rank among the lowest reliability especially in the first 3 years of ownership. Im not capping check it for yourself
@@AllThisForWhat That's misleading. IT's because of all the doodads that act up. Same with their cars. But they definitely last longer than 3 years :-)
@@azr2d1 no they don't. Most bmws especially cars last like 3 years tops before you need multiple thousand dollars to replace the plastics that always break as well as the issues with the cooling system (which bmws are notorious for)
You’re not catching 40 pound fish with a 40 pound line when u mod a modern sport bike.. you’re catching 40 pound fish with a 80 pound line.. stock is a 20 pound fish
Yes I am not a fan of mods but I do think the ecu flash is good because it does correct the factory lean condition they do for emissions. They run too hot when fuel is so lean and also the fan doesn’t turn on soon enough to keep motor cool. I think the flash will actually make motor last longer. I don’t really care about the extra few horsepower I just don’t want my bike running hot and too lean and I want it running cool and those fans turning on before engine gets so hot
I've got a 2008 kawasaki z750 an I only redline and got 48k odm an she runs perfectly no unusual eingine noise just regular maintenance. Doing a complete inspection and maintenance at 50k .
Everyone saying storing it dry is bad. Depends on the time your storing it for. Just a winter, no, of course not, he literally said that. Something that will be stored for a long time, like my dads '74 trident when he couldn't ride for over a year due to surgeries etc. (why im finally getting a bike, to motivate him to do so) yes, store dry. To caveat, also due the proper procedures to start it back up, priming the oil system, etc. its a long tedious process in some cases.
02 Triumph Tiger 955i just crossed the 96,000 mile mark. Zero engine mods including the factory muffler. Completely original engine and clutch plates. I do all my own maintenance except the valves. If it ever does blow up I'll probably do an engine swap because I don't want a new bike with all the super computers on them. And I don't drain all my fluids when I store it for the winter in fact I top everything off.
Yammie Noob, you have some stuff wrong. 1) when you do your valve clearance checks, it’s not the head gasket that you want to replace, it is the VALVE COVER GASKET. It would be insane (a lot of unnecessary time and money) to change a head gasket while checking valves. 2) it is not best to let your bike sit there idling to warmup. It is best to ride it right away after startup but with LIGHT engine load….meaning don’t lug it in too high of a gear, nor pin the throttle and have maximum combustion pressure. Ride immediately at 1/3 throttle opening or less and between 30% and 50% of redline. Be easy on it until the OIL TEMP is at 170 degrees. This will warmup the bike faster. A SLOW IDLING warmup increases how long it takes for the oengine to reach temp, which increases the amount of water vapor (which is a natural byproduct of combustion) that blows past the rings and dilutes the oil with water. Faster warmup is best, but be easy on it until it is up to temp. 3) running lean does not make the bike run hotter. When the bike makes the most power it is making the most heat (the burning fuel heats the intake air which expands the air and pushes the piston down). So when u get a bike dyno tuned for max torque and power at every rpm and every throttle position, it will make the most power and the most heat. Running either too rich OR too lean will cause reduced power AND reduced combustion heat. Ask private airplane pilots who have to manually adjust the fuel mixture as they fly at different altitudes (and thus air temperatures and air densities). The highest exhaust gas temp will be when the airplane has the perfect stoichiometric fuel mixture and is making the most power (like for take off). Once at cruising altitude, they will lean the mixture which reduces the EGT (exhaust gas temp), the engine runs cooler, with better fuel economy (but not as much power…but max power is not needed when at level cruise). All too often, motorcycle riders set up their Power Commanders too rich. What does this do? It makes less power and the excess fuel doesnt burn. The excess fuel washes oil from the cylinder walls which increases piston, ring, and cylinder wear. The rest of your video is spot on. FWIW, I’m a 62 year old retired mechanical engineer who has been riding, driving, flying, maintaining, and tuning motorcycles, cars, and single engine planes since I was 15 yrs old.
I have one to add. Today i "money shifted" my ninja from second to first when I meant to go to third. Thank God I have a slipper clutch. I don't think I damaged it but may have exceeded redline by a lot.
I have stored bike for decades. Drain carbs, unplug the battery and top off fuel tanks. New oil goes in prior to storage too. Some thing Revzilla repeated in their video. (They didn’t comment on the carbs though).
My Buell will last forever it's made from depleted Uranium. Buell has never had an engine failure during a race. I just need to keep racing everywhere. My oil runs to the swing arm. I got the Buell manual it's like a phone book from the 80's.
meanwhile: me on my a1 motorcycle--> hitting redline on highways, little amount of oil, and having to use anything at my disposal to squeeze enough usable power out.
@@AkaBull the rev limiter (10.5k tpm) in 6th gear cones on at 79 miles an hour. The speed limit is 75. I cant wait until i can get my a2 liscence. I'll me getting a zx6r that's 25kw on paper but full power irl. By the time i have my full liscence i will have been riding for 7 years.
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Was that a wheelie I saw?👀
So warm it up to 160 degrees bro??? Will this practice create premature engine wear??
“Never redline it.” I paid for the whole tachometer I’m gonna use the whole tachometer
redline is literally meant to be bounced off lmao. Makes absolutely no sense to say what he said. Proves the yammy noob downfall this guy been experiencing since covid.
Not to mention he reasons "Valve float", when generally the OEM sets redline 500-1,000 rpm before any Valve float (or other stresses)
@@blizzthebikeTodays materials cant withstand constant redlining. Do it and it wont last over 30k
This might be the dumbest thing I have read all week. Do you use that whole speedometer as well, or the whole brake lever, the front one of course.
@@pmudritodays materials engine wise are better than ever before
1) Let your bike warm up before ripping on it.
2) Keep up with your maintenance.
3) Use full synthetic oem spec oil.
4) Use high octane gas in newer sport bikes.
5) Keep the bike stock engine wise.
6) Don't run your bike at or near redline to avoid valve float.
7) Drain bike fluids before long term storage.
i redline a lot sometimes on the interstate, can you please explain valve float in one sentence and what are some symptoms
@@PChelpism Valve float is when you rev your engine so high that your valves are moving faster than your valve springs can return them to their original position on the camshaft.
This is only something to worry about if your ecu has been modified. Stock motorcycle ecu's will automatically restrict the rpms to just before redline even if you bounce off the limiter.
Just had the 7500 mile maintenance done on my Ninja 400...after riding it hard two track days. Have always used high test gas though not called for...for the detergent value alone....3 times that in Regular. New 636 in the works for next year.
In summary...
I am about to buy a motorcycle that has been stored for 5 years, I am certain that the previous owner didn't remove the fluids. What should I do when I get it?
Just rolled over 85k miles on my 08 Kawasaki ZX6R. Put gas in it, changed the oil, fed it tires. Still going strong as my daily commuter, and only form of motorized transportation.
the original oil from factory? :)
I salute you and your machine. Some hero's don't wear capes.
damn daily driving on a sport bike
Japanese reliability my man ! Sweet !
Very impressive, never had any problems with the two Kawasakis I've owned, looking for a 3rd in the near future.
"Shift faster", "don't redline it"...
Me, being 16 years old and from europe with my 125 having 15 hp be like: bruh.
In the netherlands you have to be 18 for 125cc. 😅
Really, I didn't know that. I'm from germany
@@NaTeCS in the uk its 17 for a 125
Those small engines can rev extremely high because the moving components are extremely light weight so no worries.
I feel bad for you guys in Europe with those ridiculous regulations. IMO 300 cc bike are less dangerous because they can accelerate fast enough to keep up with other vehicular traffic and maintain adequate speed when ascending changes in elevation. Nothing is more dangerous than an impatient motorists behind a motorcycle.
Hey bro, a Honda 125cc/150cc is a tank of a motorcycle, those engines run great while 100% twisting the cable all the times, even when having crappy fuel in it.
Draining the oil when you store it is basically THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO.
Replace it with fresh oil, then store it. Everything that's covered in oil, can't rust.
If you're storing for a very long time (think several years) fill up the engine to the brim before putting it away. Otherwise you risk getting rust pitting in the cams, valvestems and more.
Just remember to drain the excess oil and clean everything before starting it again.
Valve stems?
@@fbiagent2848 There's pleanty of people who don't have OHC engines. Like the majority of the population I'm guessing.
Yeah I live in PA and I'm going to have to store my bike over winter. I'm still trying to figure out what to do..
@@AkaBull clean it, replace the oil, disconnect the battery (hooking it to a trickle charger would be even better) and either drain the entire fuel system or completely flush it with low ethanol fuel and top off the tank.
If you have a carburetor, it's better to drain the bowl regardless.
The owner's manual of my bike also recommends taking out the sparkplug, pouring some oil in the combustion chamber and cranking it over for a couple seconds. But I think that that's just a two-stroke thing.
Almost forgot: clean and lube your chain
@@TDG2654 I just bought the 21 low rider s so I'm fuel injection, and belt driven. So advice thanks Robin. I'll be definitely cleaning her before storage, may even wipe her down with oil where I think she may pick up rust. I'm not to sure what I'll do with the fuel tank yet tho, may drain it, may top it off with an addictive 🤷♂️
As for letting the engine warm up, you don't need to stay still until it reaches operating temp. Just keep the rpm low, like under 4500, until it's operating temp.
And shift calm, don't pull up like you're in a race.
45 seconds or so to let oil fill all spots of engine they like you said keep it down rpm wise until warm theyn ride it like you stole it, my old ninja 600 60k that way not one thing ever broke
I bounced my Harley off the rev limiter once, but it was okay, it redlines at like, 2k... :D
2,000 revolutions per month? Sounds about right.
Lol facts!
What the!!! 😳
@@Kcducttaper1 lol per millennia
Isn't a Harley at redline when it idles?
As a beginner rider on a 1970s East German 2 stroke ‘simson’ motorbike I can confidently say that it only hits the redline when I accidentally shift into neutral instead of 2nd. 😁
Those neutrals can be sneaky. Every now an then the appear between other gears.
Same , but im used to it , you should let it go down the rpms so you can shift smoothly (btw i have a 1970 bmw r75/6 us spec) , becomes annoying when going full throttle between 3rd/4rd and 5th though
I used to live in Pennsylvania and when the winters came I wouldn't drain the fluids to store it because I would start it once or twice a week and let it run for like 10 minutes. Never had any issues with that.
Drain all the fluids, or just the gas? I'm in Allentown, PA.
I live in PA and do that as well
I’m in Maryland and I do the same thing. Even take it for a quick ride when the weather is nice in the winter
PA gang
@@HobbiesWithMike That's good. You don't drain anything. You store it with a full tank and fresh engine oil. The only thing you can take out is the battery to store it in a warm room and recharge it every month or so.
Whew! I ride a Honda! 😂
Me too brother ✌
2019 Honda CB650R here! ✌🏼
6,200 miles on the saddle and multiple mods and the smiles are endless per gallon!
@@miguelcabanillas8539 I have a 2020 Honda Rebel 500. 9,500 miles already and riding as often as possible :)
On my second Honda CBR I love these bikes so reliable and I think there pretty sexy
Africa twin, only problems I’ve had so far fixed themselves
If you read some manufactures handbooks they actually recommend warming the bike up by riding it in low rpm, helps to distribute the fluids nice and evenly :)
It's actually the right way to warm a bike. You ride it but keep it at low RPM... That way, as you said, the oil will get distributed in every corner, but the tire will warm up too, and the clutch/gears as well.
@@Mike_Papa Dont overdo it on low RPM's tho, lugging is also bad. I think you are right tho, warm it up by being it that zone where it spins freely and dont put too much load on it until its warm, will 100% keep your engine in better shape.
@@Surpriseify when I mean low RPM I mean I keep it at around 4k. My Rev is at 12 and my optimal RPM is 7-8k so I just don't push it. But yeah being too low too long isn't good either.
The main thing is to warm the tires as well, especially if you ride in the cold.
I always just idle my bike everytime for 5 to 10 minutes before I ride it, safer that way. Or you can do both idle for a few minutes, then ride it slow.
yep. my s1000r BMW specifically states, DO NOT let the bike sit at idle on the stand to warm up. You should start then ride it at reasonable RPM's until temp is at operating temp.
Please, for the love of all things holy, do NOT drain the engine oil. This will only make it rust faster. Ensure the oil in it is less than a year old, and roll your bike around in gear every few months. Oil stops rust. Why would you want to drain it
Yeah.....didn't quite get that part. I totally agree with don't ride in the rain, then immediately cover it up while it's all soaking wet, but IDK why you'd want to drain anything other than maybe the tank (and that only if you can make sure you get ALL of the gas out).
Yeah, I'm not draining my oil, F that.
The reason why you would drain engine oil and I see this a lot with our trucks, is that oil is acidic. The additives in engine oil reduce the acidity of the oil, however, oil does not like to be mixed. It may mix for a month or so but after that period, the additives will seperate from the oil. Only two ways to prevent this: start the engine or Darin the oil. The reason why the acidic nature is bad is because of your engine seals. The oil will eat them away.
On next episode: Is accelerating bad for your engine?
hahaha noice one!!
Followed by: is turning on your bike killing your bike?
Hahahaha 😅😅😅
Ground friction is killing your tires bro!
Yea this guys played out already
I have 80k miles on my '05 Yammie FZ6 - oil changes every 5K (Silkolene 10w/30) updated (new) front/rear break master-cylinders w/ fluid change every other year - new LED lights all around - 50/50 coolant keeps her happy - running E-Free 89oct here in Hawaii, w/ occasional SeaFoam - bike runs great! That new clutch I installed, is really crisp too :) Stay Awesome Out There! Thanks for all of your useful content !!
I just got one with 5k on it and I am so happy seeing this!
eey thats really cool you have your yammie at high milage. it gives me hope man.
almost like a 'Yota (almost) - stay on top of the fluid intervals, keep the routine maintenance up, new tires every so often and bada bing, smiles for miles :)
Warm up recommendation only applies to warming it up before higher loads. Most motorcycles, especially newer ones, will have a recommendation in their service manuals not to warm it up before ride as it might increase buildup of different sorts and rather drive it off without stressing it. Just my two cents.
I always ride low revs in startup, it's a waste of fuel sitting, waiting for warmup.
Additionally, pressures are pretty low when idling, which means your piston rings don't seal quite as well as when you're under even a little bit of power. If you didn't break your engine in correctly (and let's face it - even if you did) that'll lead to oil dilution. The reason is two-fold. On top of the poor seal, your bike also runs rich while it's cold to make up for fuel condensing on the cylinder walls. That leaves a ready supply of liquid fuel in the best location to get past the rings and mix with your oil. No es bueno!
Let's be clear, you'll get that when the engine is cold regardless, but if you're just sitting there idling you get much more of it and the engine warms up slower.
Fortunately, modern engines have a neat way of getting rid of oil dilution - crankcase ventilation. Basically, once your oil is up to temperature, it's hot enough to evaporate all the fuel, which in turn gets sucked into the intake and burnt away in the cylinder. But that only works when your engine gets hot and it takes a while to evaporate all of it. This is why when you open the oil filler cap on an engine (car or bike) that's only used for short periods it smells of fuel. It's not supposed to, but it never gets the chance to get rid of that fuel.
If the problem is serious enough, you'll notice the oil level rising over time. If you do, and you take regular long-ish trips (oil stays hot for at least 30 minutes), then there's another problem which must be addressed. In the meantime you ought to reduce your oil change interval to half or a quarter of the manufacturer's recommendation, else the dilution can cause engine damage.
@@MH-cv5ye The more time the engine spend not in the working temperature, the more it will tear. So it's better for the health of engine to start it and then go riding at low rpms.
@@TheMatti36 Due to my daily ride being a big 1000cc V twin with open exhausts i can`t let her warm up for 5 minutes anyway when i need to leave for work at 5:30 in the morning... The neighbours would kill me.
I just start the thing and ride it at round 2/3000 rpm till it wants to idle without the choke which takes about 3 to 4 minutes before i join the highway and open the throttle.
I always wondered if i was damaging or shortening the life span of my bike but it seems the general idea is that i`m actually doing the best i can for the engine?
My 2023 owners manual says to let it warm up
After years of watching this channel, I can finally watch this video and think to myself "I have a bike."
I really hope the rest of you who are waiting and/or unable to pull the trigger finally get that bike this upcoming year.
Having my exam 2 December hopefully from then I can love my own bike ;)
Me 👋
I need one to know I’m still alive lol. Finally got my funds right to where I can buy and i won’t be broke
I had that feeling prior to this year. Picked up an 06 Ninja 250 for $800 at the beginning of the season. I'll be keeping it until tax time and then sell it for something more modern. Probably an MT-03.
@@MuffinMammoth Dope, congrats man.
about 5 more months and then I'll finally be able to get the bike of my dreams
If you're forced to ride with too low of an octane fuel, you should actually keep the revs up and the throttle (and thus load) low. Preignition is most likely to happen at low engine speeds and high load, so you should avoid that operating condition. This is because low engine speed creates more time during compression, before the spark fires, providing more time for the fuel air mix to heat up and potentially pre-ignite. High load also creates higher pressures, density and internal temperatures, adding to the preignition potential.
On modern engines, low octane isn't as much of a problem. They have knock sensors detect preignition and loosen spark timing, reducing preignition at the cost of power. Still best to run premium if it needs it though.
I might disagree on dry storage and suggest that you top everything off to eliminate air in the systems. Oil would get extra quarts and treated fuel to the max level. Heating and cooling on any vented system allows air (moisture) to possibly enter over time. Even better to not store and just ride all year.
i'm gonna remember to ride this winter when it gets to -15c and the rods are covered in snow.. obviusly the best would be to ride all year but for some parts of the world its just not possible :/
@@christianjohnsen105 It's possible... JUST A LOT more trouble than it might be worth. You'll need a "semi temperature controlled" storage area for the bike, where you can keep it above the oil's congealing temperature (which is different for viscosity ratings)... Do the warm-up phase in that storage area (so it has to be well ventilated) and then ride the 15 to 30 minutes once a week or so for "maintenance".
You'll still have to be aware of issues like cold tires and ride gently, but it's still do-able... It can just be so much more trouble, you're probably better advised to stabilize and store it a few months instead. If you're in an area prone to a lot of ice and snow, snow tires CAN also be found, but do you REALLY need two sets of rims for one bike??? It's all about how far YOU are willing to take it. ;o)
@@christianjohnsen105 c'mon man...don't be a wimp. Get out there and ride ;-)
Same here, was thinking the opposite, except for the fuel tank...
Maybe just let your bike run on idle for about 5 to 10 minutes every other day and it won't get that much affected from sitting there all winter
Proper break in, keep your bike from overheating and keep up on fluids.
No such thing as break in
@@TheFerwing yup, they are broken in at the factory
I was told to keep it below 6k and 65mph for 650miles
Exactly, do like you said. If interested in motorcycles, cars and travelling, go and check my content. You may like it. :) Thanks for taking your time.
I used to do the proper break in with every new bike I would get. My last new R1 and CBR1000RR I just immediately road it like I stole it. No problems and the interesting thing is alot of racers do this same thing and recommend it. My new bike I'm getting I'm flying to Denver to get and riding home. Definitely not breaking that in "properly".
Running up to redline occasionally isn't necessarily a bad thing. I run my current car up to 8k+ fairly frequently. It has over 200k miles on it and it doesn't use any measurable amount of oil. I once had another car with a very similar engine that had half as many miles and burned almost as much oil as gas. It was owned by an elderly couple that drove it like they were driving Ms Daisy. They sold it to a 20 year old who revved it like it was designed to be and wiped out the oil rings because the Pistons actually travel a bit further at high rpm. Manufacturers put the redline where they do for a reason and they take valve float into account.
Exactly👍
my opel has 500k miles on factory engine ran it 1.5k-2.5k all the time on highway 4.5k rpm, started to use oil lately, changed piston rings each 120k-200k miles how its normal for them to last, got a toyota with 140k miles bought it with 120k miles ma lil toyota had 2 broken piston rings and 1 exterminated ran without missing a beat for 8k miles sometimes didnt use a bit of oil sometimes used 1 litre per 1k miles i then opened the engine and renewed it now it runs good and doesnt consume oil, new chain gaskets and piston rings and engine is like new, piston rings last around 120k miles also driving litely affects their life proper warm up cool down helps, engine had massive amounts of carbon before i repaired it 1st owner didnt take a lot of care about it,close to redline kills the engine especialy if high mileage and old factory parts, but yea you can rev it hard without breaking the engine but not exagerated
watching yo new vids after an exhausting day at work makes it all worth it
i still find it hilarious that he has a discord behind a paywall
Just bought a 2021 Honda CB300R w/ ABS as my first bike. I’m pretty happy to get into this new journey.
Congratulations brother, be safe out there man, and keep your eyes on a swivel, shit can go wrong real quick. These new drivers and their cell phones, texting and driving.
for storage fill tank with ethanol free gasoline, Ethanol absorbs water and causes all sorts of problems.
AND contrary to popular belief and the labels on the products in question, you most certainly CAN invent problems "over-dosing" with those ethanol treatment chemicals on your bike. It can cause shellacking in the tank and fuel system all the way through (which is actually easier to deal with in a carburetor) and it DOES deteriorate over time... reducing volatility and "fire power" you get for the fuel. ;o)
7:16 nah yam yam, gotta have that ridiculously loud exsaust at minimum. Just to make sure your neighbors hate you just enough that they don't come over and ask for favors or help.
I always keep a Honda in the fleet, so I’ve always got one guaranteed working bike
Seems like you're saying Honda are the best bikes 🤷♂️
@@AkaBull yes, yes it does. And in someways they certainly are my friend.
@@adolfshitler haha I wish I had one of those… nah an 85 shadow 500. Probably one of the best small bikes ever made ever
@@monkmoto1887 🤭🤭 To each his own I guess 🤷♂️ Enjoy the ride and stay safe out there my friend ✌
When storing your bike in winters, pay a visit to them time to time. Give some idle rev, have a quick mini tour around neighborhood etc.
My zxr400 has spent most of the last 20k miles of its life above 10,000 revs .... Still good as new inside the engine. I'm never scared to rev any bike, I always avoid the rev limiter though, there's never any need to hit the limiter.
Agreed, but I hit mine once or five times 🤭, by accident of course...
6:40 (German) I only put Premium fluids in my vehicles, my cars engine had to be dropped out arround the 160k km mark, due to the timing chain making funny noises.
They also checked for carbon buildup and wear on other internal engine parts, since it was already out.
The engine looked like new and had only a little carbon on the Air sensor, which buffled them, since cars with that distance usually are pretty plugged with carbon.
My car also pulls better than my fathers, who got the LCI of mine, with a few moree HP.. He likes to go cheap and already got issues due to carbon buildup, with less km on it.
There might be a lot more factors that should be considered, but for me it is sort of an indication, that their shit actually works.
“Unless you’re riding around on a Honda, it’s destined for death” I love that line
Even before thw GSXR went to liquid cooling, Cycle World, for a torture test, had one run at WOT for 24 hours straight. After the 24 hours, the engine was torn down. There was no discernible wear whatsoever, even after screaming into redline for the whole time. And that was with the old air-and-oil cooled configuration.
YAM, I only put ethanol free gas in my bike year round. It's never seen ethanol gas because of my experience with boat engines and the nightmare it causes there with 100 gallons in the tank. Thanks for the content, great stuff!
Hummm not sure if I should go that route, I mean I already use 93.
Ethanol is fine if you ride regularly. For storage it's better to use ethanol free gas but it still goes bad fairly quickly. Best for long term storage is to use the fuel from those metal cans they sell. That stuff stays good much longer. Check out project farm, he did some tests.
man oh man the punishment my first 50cc took popped the spark plug red lining the crap out of it, falls doing off road and then finally hitting a object in the road made me do a front flip with the bike only to have it land on me.... came of with no injuries defo used one on my nine lives after that the police collected it and impounded it, then I paid for release and it was never seen again
Best end fact ever! Also, extremely informative for a newer rider. I needed to know a few of these. Others applied similarly to the humvees we had in the army
Yammie -
"Unless you're riding on a Honda"
Me -
*Leaves*
The number 1 tip: The bike warmup. regulating the oil is not too true, because the moment you open the bike it immediately distributes the oil in seconds. what you're really warming up is the whole engine, and yes, the oil. you're making the engine ready for the massive amount of heat that is about to be produced, in this way you're preventing the engine from sudden heat that could potentially break parts from thermal expansion
Allowing an engine to warm up to operating temperature ensures that the internal clearances are at specification as a result of thermal expansion. It also ensures that the oil is functioning optimally within its designed temperature range.
@@davidbrayshaw3529 ummm... That's just what I literally said mate.
@@Yakigami Please re read my post.
I don't drain all fluids from my motorcycle during the winter break, I change the oil, fill the tank to the brim, spray some WD 40 into the exhaust and close the pipe with two rags, remove the battery and store it in the basement with a battery monitor. At the end I put the bike on the center stand and use an additional wooden support to ensure that both wheels are in the air. My motorcycle has been with the same engine for 42 years. If you ask, it's a Yamaha XJ 750 Seca
This year I gave it to an old friend who always wanted it and switched to a FJR 1300
nah, warmup can be done while riding. Just keep rpm's low. This way it warms up faster anyways and you're not wasting fuel. Some bikes will never warm up when you let it idle, definitely not to 160f
Three to four minutes of warmup without riding is ridiculous, also the heath will build up a lot faster than it would if you were just riding it without revving it too much.
@@JCBigCat 2 minutes is cool you gotta let the cold metal warm up slowly otherwise you risk damaging heating it up too fast riding it?.
The general recommendation is no more than 10 seconds of deliberate idling. After that you're good to go, just don't rev its tits off.
@@233kosta That's what I follow. And I do a quick check for weird noises. Then off I go and take it easy on the engine for several miles.
@@azr2d1 Having an oil temperature gauge is a big help here. Tempted to put one on my little 125 if I find a neat way of doing it without cutting or drilling into anything.
My family was in oil business for 30 years .Little known fact is Gasoline additives are used to raise octane as raw/virgin gasoline which is only around 70 octane. These additives vaporize out of raw gasoline very quickly so go to gas station that sells alot of product.
Any truth to 91 being ethanol free
Best things I've done to my scout was the rear shocks upgrade, intake, exaust, and program it. Completely different bike after.
Hey been watching your videos going on to 2yrs now and you’ve helped me a lot when it came down to making my decision for a bike (z900) thank you 🙏🏾
Fort nine a great comparison on fuel stabilizers. They really did not do that much. He recommended winterizing with ethanol free gas.
Which makes sense. The whole point of stabilizer is because of the ethanol in fuel to begin with. If you use ethanol free gas, then there's no ethanol to need stabilizer for.
The stuff works for my fuel storage that's for my generators. If you don't use it the fuel flat out won't start the generator.
You.'v just hammerd 40% of what people change in the cb300r, those electric turbo updates🤣
Me with a KLR when I hear about death : "Pathetic"
I idle my chainsaw to run out all of the fuel so it doesn't turn into 2 stroke varnish in the carburetor when it's stored for 3 years, but when storing my bike for 3-4 months for the winter, I fill the tank to prevent air in the tank from expanding and contracting with every daily thermal cycle, which sucks air into the fuel tank and condenses the water in that air. There is no need for fuel stabilizer for a few months of storage.
Mine is a 33 year old Katana 1100 with 115,000km on it. Being about the 7th owner I'm assuming the bike's had a hard life, and yet it's still pretty decent. I'm in the process of trying to sell it because we're leaving the Canada for warmer places (The Philippines) and that old Suzuki will be on to owner number 8.
Honda CB1000R here. 🙌🏽
I would add one more thing to do. 8) Wash your bike regularly. - I don't mean detail it like an obsessed Harley guy with a can of Chrome polish but a bucket of water and a sponge and a hose. The reason, is that by washing you actually will put your eyeballs on areas of the bike you don't normally see. It often can let you see a problem forming before it becomes a big problem (Loose bolts, oil leaks etc etc)
Draining all your fluids sounds like a great formula for condensation and rust.
Load is the best way to warm an engine, you should not idle to warm up. I let it idle for about 30 seconds then ride at low speed and load until warm.
I usually idle for about 5 minutes then riding slow for another 5 minutes. Bike seems fine.
Should note: "This is for fuel injected motors."
Sits back puts my feet up knowing I have cbr600 (25 years old) and this bike has never missed a beat
Old bikes definitely can benefit from high octane gas, older engines tend to have more miles and more miles can mean “hotspots” in the combustion chamber.
Along with buying good oil, buy good oil filters. Avoid the cheap garbage filters. Think of good oil and oil filters as cheap insurance for your bike’s engine.
I ride a 2009 harley dyna. Its my only vehicle and I always let it idle till the high rpm slows down to normal which is about 30 seconds and then I drive gently for a mile before I pin it.
@@deangruwell6555 ive heard people talk about it but I've never had it. I hear its from a flexing in the frame but im a light 145lbs and maybe thats something that only happens to heavy riders or maybe the previous owner fixed it. I bought it with 40k miles
Best explanation of valve float I have ever hear in fifty-nine years.
Unfortunately my bike doesn't exactly go fast enough as is so I do have to get close to redline
If interested in motorcycles, cars and travelling, go and check my content. You may like it. :) Thanks for taking your time.
My grom takes off at redline
@@NickVetter my 150cc like that as well
just got my first bike… 94 suzuki katana gsx600f… thanks for all these tips. i love riding it
Yammie: "Never redline it!"
*Looks at my '89 CBR that I ride to the rev limiter every single time I get a red light*
Or maybe you could just maintain it properly and still have fun with the bike. You really can have your cake and eat it too
Don’t be sending anyone any bombs ok
Hi Yammie, Thank you for your excellent choice of background music (Nocturne No.2, Opus 9 by Chopin for those who don't know it and are interested); it makes such a pleasant change from the heavy guitar fare typical of other videos. Who is the pianist? I suspect that many viewers won't have noticed the music and might now watch again. I also recommend Rubinstein's interpretations of the piece (also available on RUclips).
Love the content Yammy. Why would you change the Head Gasket when you are checking your valves? Did you mean valve cover gasket?
Its fun the talk about Octan, here in Denmark Low octane gas is 92, and most people in normal cars and stuff runs 95. Didnt even know they sold it lower than 90 Octane in Murikaaa
87 murica=92 europ, 91 murika=95 europ different measurement both use minimum mainly 91=95 murika sometimes has 87, and like murika 93-95= europ 98-102
Don't let it idle more than 1 minute if you have a 2 stroke :D
Just give it low rpm at start
I've heard the same thing suggested for all motors. Riding/driving away at very low rpm and load (for the first couple minutes) warms the motor much faster than simply idling it, and warming up faster is supposedly more beneficial to the motor than idling it with zero load 'till warm. -- Of course the main lesson is the same. Warm the bike before working it; warm thoroughly before thrashing.
@@kleinbottled79 exactly. when you leave your garage, there is no need to redline it within city limits. so just cruise until you reach the twisties.
I do 5 minutes, never had an issue, well not yet that is 🤭
why is that? just curious
carburetor bikes don't run right till they are warm, no fancy shut-offs or self-control is needed. itl just bog till shes warmed up, also the cause of may jetting headaches.
also just run the gas that the owner's manual says, you might be surprised at what it says. my fz6 witch has the same motor as an early r6 calls for 87 for example.
You do realize that the redline and even the factory rev limiter (which is usually above the redline) still actually have a certain amount or percentage of safe operating limits built into them right? Bikes leave the factory with this extra margin of safety built in so that the motors will not become hand grenades and need warranty replacements.
Even most aftermarket CDI boxes allow the raising of the point where the rev limiter kicks in and raising it on most bikes by 1000-1500 rpms higher causes no engine issues on sport bikes anyway.
Secret is knowing where the power and torque start dropping off in the rpm range on your particular engine as generally running the revs past that point gains nothing in performance.
Another one that draining the oil for a winter storage is not the smartest, although changing the oil and filter before you put it away is a good idea.
Also when you start your bike ALWAYS run it til it is at full operating temps to prevent creating condensation that does not get dried up before you shut the bike down. And yes store with the fuel tank FULL of treated non ethanol fuel.
YO, I got a brand new 2019 CB1000-R, after first 600 miles i did an oil change with Castrol Actevo 10w30 & OEM Honda Filter, i flushed the OEM coolant & replaced it with Engine ice. After the next Three 3000 miles oil Changes with Castrol Actevo & OEM Honda filters I have a Large Stock of Motul 7100 4T 10w40 and K&N 204 oil filtrs for the rest of my motorcycle's life 😎 and For Fuel, i am always at Costco pumps with Their premium. I Noticed that my Bike cranks up better/QUICKER with Costco's Premium Fuel in comparison to Shell's.
8. never drive it.
I used to have a suzuki gsx250f with about 135,000 km on the clock. When I bounced it off the rev limiter at 16,500 rpm all it would do is blow a little smoke and misfire a bit. Tough as nails that old thing.
I payed for the whole tachometer, im going to use the whole tachometer.
Well my 2023 KLR 650 S has no tach so I can do what I want and nobody can say otherwise😂
Had a Honda Varadero 125 from new up to 93,000 miles and the only way to ride them is hit that redline it in every gear and use fifth as an overdrive!
Once kicked down from fifth to fourth as i came into a bend doing 60mph and bang..... i was actually in fourth gear kicking down to third and snapped a rocker arm.
Quickly repaired and back on the road, redline and all.
Wait, why are we replacing head gaskets when setting tappets? This makes no sense 😂
He doesn't even know the difference between a head gasket and a rocker/valve cover gasket, junk video.
Wow. Warm ups number 1? Hell yeah! Proper! 40+ year mechanic speaking here. Hot pistons, cold cylinders; hot valves, cold valve guides mean metal grinds away permanently. Warm ups save all engines. Period.
I'll just stick with whatever octane the owners manual specifies.
Fortnine has a very good video about the "Italian tune up", saying high revs are healthier for the engine
I like that at the beginning of the video Yam just let's the cat out of the bag that all Hondas will outlive us.
Man. That intro had me thinking i was watching infographics at first. Love the vids!
Currently sticking to car content. But hopefully I will enter the 2 wheels world soon. Very useful video
Do it
"Always use higher octane gas in modern bikes"? Errrr, nope. Use the octane gas that your bike is tuned to.
Its crazy but going through this ... I now understand why my 80 year old neighbor has had the same bike for close to 30 years
Smart man. Now that's a man I would spend a few minutes with and learn some knowledge.
Tip n1: don’t buy a 2 stroke
Oh shit...
I’m doomed
During winter to keep the bike fresh, I just ride it for 60-90 minutes on 50mph roads once every 3-4 weeks. A matter of putting on extra warm clothes and duke it out until the bike's good and warm again. It has kept everything fresh that otherwise would rot during a 3 month storage and ensured my bike's always stayed fine in 15 years of riding. What also helps is a good fresh tank of fuel in the middle of winter to break up the season into 1 month intervals, so there's never any fuel going bad. Same with an oil change when due and chain lube.
Idk about tip number one, the oil pump will distribute the oil immediately when the pump is turned over even from cranking. Viscosity of oil is actually thicker when it’s cold vs when it’s warm. Letting it sit for 5 min will do nothing different than if you let it sit for 30 sec or even 15 sec after starting.
Nooooo don’t do dry storage
The metal won't be at the correct dimensions, its really not so much spreading the oil (though its lubrication value I think does go down when its cold), its more the valves/piston are at incorrect dimensions and will therefore wiggle more and scrape things up. Some engines you can really hear a horrible nocking sound until they warm.
3:30 Change the head gasket while checking valve clearances? Are you sure you know what a head gasket is?
'' It will last forever'' UNLESS its a BMW or an Italian one or an American one. Nothing can produce reliability put of unreliable machines with 2 wheels. Japan for the Win
Agreed.
Guess those 100K + bmw's are fake..uhuh
@@azr2d1 i mean sure some may go there (mainly the Adv ones) but generally the BMWs rank among the lowest reliability especially in the first 3 years of ownership. Im not capping check it for yourself
@@AllThisForWhat That's misleading. IT's because of all the doodads that act up. Same with their cars. But they definitely last longer than 3 years :-)
@@azr2d1 no they don't. Most bmws especially cars last like 3 years tops before you need multiple thousand dollars to replace the plastics that always break as well as the issues with the cooling system (which bmws are notorious for)
"Never Redline It!"
Never ride to the redline or never ride into the red (over rev it)???
You’re not catching 40 pound fish with a 40 pound line when u mod a modern sport bike.. you’re catching 40 pound fish with a 80 pound line.. stock is a 20 pound fish
Amen 🙏 brother. I'm not moding my engine for shit, I'll do cosmetic mods, but thats it.
VFR IS MENTIONED SOMEWHERE!!! ME HAPPY! I thought no one knew this v4 beauty exists. Ppl only talk about ducati ducati but vfr existed since the 80s
Yes I am not a fan of mods but I do think the ecu flash is good because it does correct the factory lean condition they do for emissions. They run too hot when fuel is so lean and also the fan doesn’t turn on soon enough to keep motor cool. I think the flash will actually make motor last longer. I don’t really care about the extra few horsepower I just don’t want my bike running hot and too lean and I want it running cool and those fans turning on before engine gets so hot
Nice video bro 👍
I've got a 2008 kawasaki z750 an I only redline and got 48k odm an she runs perfectly no unusual eingine noise just regular maintenance. Doing a complete inspection and maintenance at 50k .
Everyone saying storing it dry is bad. Depends on the time your storing it for. Just a winter, no, of course not, he literally said that. Something that will be stored for a long time, like my dads '74 trident when he couldn't ride for over a year due to surgeries etc. (why im finally getting a bike, to motivate him to do so) yes, store dry. To caveat, also due the proper procedures to start it back up, priming the oil system, etc. its a long tedious process in some cases.
02 Triumph Tiger 955i just crossed the 96,000 mile mark. Zero engine mods including the factory muffler. Completely original engine and clutch plates. I do all my own maintenance except the valves.
If it ever does blow up I'll probably do an engine swap because I don't want a new bike with all the super computers on them.
And I don't drain all my fluids when I store it for the winter in fact I top everything off.
Yammie Noob, you have some stuff wrong.
1) when you do your valve clearance checks, it’s not the head gasket that you want to replace, it is the VALVE COVER GASKET. It would be insane (a lot of unnecessary time and money) to change a head gasket while checking valves.
2) it is not best to let your bike sit there idling to warmup. It is best to ride it right away after startup but with LIGHT engine load….meaning don’t lug it in too high of a gear, nor pin the throttle and have maximum combustion pressure. Ride immediately at 1/3 throttle opening or less and between 30% and 50% of redline. Be easy on it until the OIL TEMP is at 170 degrees. This will warmup the bike faster. A SLOW IDLING warmup increases how long it takes for the oengine to reach temp, which increases the amount of water vapor (which is a natural byproduct of combustion) that blows past the rings and dilutes the oil with water. Faster warmup is best, but be easy on it until it is up to temp.
3) running lean does not make the bike run hotter. When the bike makes the most power it is making the most heat (the burning fuel heats the intake air which expands the air and pushes the piston down). So when u get a bike dyno tuned for max torque and power at every rpm and every throttle position, it will make the most power and the most heat. Running either too rich OR too lean will cause reduced power AND reduced combustion heat. Ask private airplane pilots who have to manually adjust the fuel mixture as they fly at different altitudes (and thus air temperatures and air densities). The highest exhaust gas temp will be when the airplane has the perfect stoichiometric fuel mixture and is making the most power (like for take off). Once at cruising altitude, they will lean the mixture which reduces the EGT (exhaust gas temp), the engine runs cooler, with better fuel economy (but not as much power…but max power is not needed when at level cruise). All too often, motorcycle riders set up their Power Commanders too rich. What does this do? It makes less power and the excess fuel doesnt burn. The excess fuel washes oil from the cylinder walls which increases piston, ring, and cylinder wear.
The rest of your video is spot on. FWIW, I’m a 62 year old retired mechanical engineer who has been riding, driving, flying, maintaining, and tuning motorcycles, cars, and single engine planes since I was 15 yrs old.
Just got my first honda street bike! The cleanest cbr900rr I've ever seen. I'm glad that it should hypothetically live forever
@@schrodingersmechanic7622 yup. I've had all the big 4 Japanese brands except for yamaha in sport bikes, but I've always had Yamaha quads
5:26 for a moment I thought you said blinker fluid haha
I have one to add. Today i "money shifted" my ninja from second to first when I meant to go to third. Thank God I have a slipper clutch. I don't think I damaged it but may have exceeded redline by a lot.
The Shell petrol station at 5:40 is from the Czech Republic 😀
I have stored bike for decades. Drain carbs, unplug the battery and top off fuel tanks. New oil goes in prior to storage too. Some thing Revzilla repeated in their video. (They didn’t comment on the carbs though).
My Buell will last forever it's made from depleted Uranium. Buell has never had an engine failure during a race. I just need to keep racing everywhere. My oil runs to the swing arm. I got the Buell manual it's like a phone book from the 80's.
meanwhile: me on my a1 motorcycle--> hitting redline on highways, little amount of oil, and having to use anything at my disposal to squeeze enough usable power out.
Jesus 😂 🤭
@@AkaBull the rev limiter (10.5k tpm) in 6th gear cones on at 79 miles an hour. The speed limit is 75. I cant wait until i can get my a2 liscence. I'll me getting a zx6r that's 25kw on paper but full power irl. By the time i have my full liscence i will have been riding for 7 years.
@@sillymust1057 God. I love it here in the US 🇺🇸 we don't have those restrictions here, we at least not as bad as yours.