Removing a Tikka Factory Barrel
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2022
- Tikkas are amazing actions. Of course you want to upgrade it and of course you want to do it yourself. This should provide some help to those attempting the herculean task of removing their factory barrel from their Tikka action.
Please Note: I'm no expert -- just a dude trying to figure out the best way to do this and documenting it for the benefit of others. Hope it helps.
Notes:
-Many have suggested using rosin or drywall paper to wrap the barrel in the vise. Apparently that works much better than an index card.
-The Wheeler action wrench is a #1 (not 2). 
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A trick i learned from high end engine builders, on non torque to yield bolts. Is to torque down to spec them back of a 1/4 turn and retoque. Will almost always torque it farther.
You can check it by marking the barrel and action after the first torque. Then back off and re torque.
The reason barrels will spin in those barrel blocks/barrel vises is not that they are not cranked hard enought, it's cause they are to short so that there is not enought surface area. A 10-12cm block can hold a barrel with only 5 tons or so applied.
I think you did a great job on the video. Read all of the comments so I totaly understand what and why you did it.
Quick back ground, been a master mechanic a long time. Military, logging, transit, turbine engines and factory trained by Allison, voith, and ZF for heavy duty auto trans.
Dry ice works much better on making metal contract. Have had to pull many stub shafts from Rockwell diffs and it's the easiest way.
I remove a lot of stuck choke tubes from shotgun barrels also.
The trick is to pack dry ice in as far as you can and keep doing it until the action and barrel are frosted up. It will usual contract .005" for every change in ambient temp.
Then heat up the action. Never staying in one place too long. I have a harbor freight heat gun that works great. Industry standard is any temp over 109 deg is uncomfortable to touch.
As the action thaws put some oil on it and keep heating until smoke rises, that's usually 200 deg. Which is enough to increase aluminum. 010.
250 to 300 deg for steel gets the same.
The quicker the better so the barrel is still frosted. It will come right off.
That would make it easier but I didn't think it was as bad as a lot of people said. My action and barrel were oil free and at room temperature and it just took a decent wrenching. I'm sure some are worse than others so maybe I got lucky.
Oy! Where are the 200 other videos I expected to find on a channel with such excellent narration? You mean to say this is your first!?
Seeing as there weren't any other vids covering this specifically, I did this one as a favor for someone. I'm by no stretch an expert so I'm not sure there's much I can add to the knowledge base. Who knows... maybe I'll document something else I'm tinkering with.
@@BrooklynBowyerwait you're not a video producer? I should have guessed when you just got right into it without a ten minute introduction. Excellent quality.
Ive never had any trouble removing a factory Tikka barrel, Ive removed a lot. A good barrel vice and an outside action wrench is all I've ever used. Ive never had to heat or cool anything.
The "outside" action wrench is the key. I did the same thing using the "outside action wrench".
So EASY. Thank you. Excellent job. I plan on doing it myself now. Thanks
You could probably use some dry ice crushed up in a tray with alcohol with a rag wrapped around to wick it up. That will probably get better deep cooling on the one side.
I had luck with a wheeler wrench and my viper vise. only took 3 whacks with a dead blow. I also used index cards as well as rosin on the barrel to avoid spinning. Its a nerve racking process but taking things slow and being very deliberate with everything paid off. Factory barrel was pristine after removal as well.
Excellent instructions. Very helpful!
Finally a good step by step video… thank you for sharing😎👍
Hope it helps. Good luck!
Good stuff. Way beyond my personal tools and comfort. I will not be trying to install a proof barrel on my Tikka now but appreciate the insight.
You should use drywall tape in the SAC barrel vices, that's what they recommend and it seemed to be a lot easier to use than an index card.
Good rec thank you!
I know some gunsmiths, they use (thin) sheets of lead between barrel and vise (generic/ homemade, not SAC) on barrels they want to keep. Just gunsmith rosin if they don't care about barrel finish ;)
Two critiques from removing several factory barrels. One, use some baby powder or rosin between the barrel, paper, and vice, it will help the parts stick together. Two, I would get the vice on the barrel as far back to the action as possible. This way there is as little angle in the vice as possible. The heat and cold trick is great advice. Just remember, heat and cold are used to cure and harden steel. If you over do it you, in theory you could jeopardize the integrity of the action. And yes crank the 💩 out of the barrel vice. It takes A LOT more torque to get barrels off than you expect.
Enough people have suggested rosin that I put it in the notes section. Next time my life will be easier for sure. Thanks for the feedback
How much is a lot of torque? Thanks
@@GermanHunter I’m assuming over 500 lbs. I put my barrel in a vice, applied heat with a torch and used a wheeler action wrench. I had to still tap/smack the wrench with a 5lb hammer to break the glue loose.
@@wesleyturner1979 omg I hope mine will come loose easier than that
@@GermanHunter don’t count on it. Make sure you don’t get it too hot to make the metal soft. Or you’ll bend something.
Best video ever man thanks I was searching for a video like this .
Appreciate
Great video, great detail. Thanks for the video. Super appreciated you.
Greetings from Finland. Here, a wrench is used for that job. Flawless jaws and an almost meter-long stem make the job easy.
Tried to remove my tikja t3x super varmint barrel off ..
Heated it up and broke my SAC wrench immediately..
Sheared off ..
Tried everything...
Ended up aborting mission
Bought a new tikka action from JA outdoors...
Mounted custom barrel to that .
My stock tikka barrel is a dream
Very accurate ..
@@KevinMcGrath-g3z sorry to hear that. Those SAC wrenches aren't meant for that much torque, hence the outside-action wrench to break the factory loose.
@@BrooklynBowyer Absolutely.You would be surprised how easy that thing snapped off
Thank you. If I ever get to the point of needing to replace any of my Tikka barrels, I will definitely remember your video.
Usually people want a different twist rate or a carbon barrel. Most people will never “need” to replace a Tikka barrel.
THANK YOU. FINALLY a video on tikka THAT SHOWS THE PROCESS and not some jackass talking about it after they already loosened it but didn't film it.
Make no mistake, I'm just the jackass that filmed it. Point being... I'm still a jackass.
@@BrooklynBowyer not at all sir. I can not tell you how many videos or the on the topic of barrel loosening that dont show the actual barrel loosening. Thank you for this video and the fact that it's not as crazy as I had heard.
You can torque down the bolts on the action vise to 80 foot lbs and the barrel will not move.good video.
Appreciate you shooting PROOF!
Appreciate you making Proof!
Very well done. Voice over was on point
Good job, very useful content
Thanks for the video, I wanted to install a Proof Carbon barrel on my relatively new Tikka t3x light (pencil barrel) rifle, after watching your video, I purchased this vise and the Action wrench you feature here, it did not work for me. The barrel kept on spinning no matter what. I ended buying a Remington Action Wrench installed it with the flat side towards the action used this vise on the barrel, but used a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight as seen on another video to keep it from spinning, then I heated up the action with a propane torch all around, the action came out without a hitch!!! I am installing the new barrel and using an MDT chassis for my new long distance rifle.
Glad it worked out! Did you use rosin paper around the barrel initially?
@@BrooklynBowyer I used the paper that came with the vise, yes, I torqued the crap out of the Custom Short Action vise and still spun. Now I left the barrel on that vise and pressed the half of the vise which did the trick. I just got the go, no go gauges, the barrel fits like a glove on the Tikka 3x action. I have been busy so have not had a chance to go to the desert and try some long range shooting. I want to see if I can hit a mile with this rifle, I did 600 yards with the Tikka barrel.
Thanks for demonstrating this.
Excellent video. Mistakes and all.
Good job man. Haven’t had to work on one of these yet. Good info
If you wanted to keep the old barrel. You could bead/grip blast the barrel which will remove the marking, and then follow that step with a clear coat on that matte finish stainless steel barrel.
Thanks for the video man.
Man love your tutorial and love your humor. I have just bought an Oryx Chassis for my Tikka T3 270 WSM and was thinking of a new barrel to go to 300WSM for building up to 1KM ranges. I want to do it as much as possible myself to learn.
Hi there I put the same chassis on my tikka 3006 .
Will see I did kill servel red stags with just factory stock
If you don't mind destroying the original factory barrel, I used the barrel vise flats to hold the action firmly in place then used a 24" pipe wrench along with a 4' cheater. Popped lose pretty easy and the action is fine. The factory barrel on the other hand was done, but it was shot out anyway.
Done as in scratched up or completely unusable?
@@Roddy556 Unless you want to use it for a club. I would only recommend if your barrel is shot out or close to shot out.
@@hahac1997 I have a barrel vise and a bench vise but I don't know how to use them in tandem to not have to buy an action wrench.
Actually I will need two action wrenches as my internal AI is too big.
I think I might take my barrel vise off the table and bolt it to a metal bar and use that as a wrench.
@@Roddy556 A barrel vise works good as an action wrench for the flats on the tikka, use brass shims and make sure its tight!
One other suggestion, if that torque wrench is not effective, like ball bearings in machines, try an induction heater (uses magnetic fields to heat the part up), this IS Safe, is used all the time for some designs, it expands the metal just enough to free the taper adhesion force holding the parts in place, Ps, I am NOT a gunsmith, just have an idea, from a car mechanics' background.
Heat anneals and softens the metal and removes it’s strength characteristics.
Did this to a T3X action thinking "oh this is going to be just as easy". Dead wrong. That thing had bedding or glue through out all the threads. The first inch of threads was just as hard as breaking it loose.
Oh that's a bummer. If there was any glue on mine, it was minimal as there was no evidence of it once the barrel came off. Also, once I got mine to turn (and it took a LOT of force), it turned very easily.
Not sure about your particular vise but I've always use rosin in mine with no problems.
Awesome! Looking at going this route. Wish Tikka would just sell a factory rifle with a Proof Barrel
Thanks for that. Really well done content. Exactly what I’ve been looking for. Got a proof to put on my Tikka T3 Tac A1. You’ve given me the confidence to try it. On the SAC action wrench, did you use the large or small bumper?
Glad it's helpful! I used the small bumper.
I heard you can crack the lugs with that inside action wrench. It should only be used for tightening, not loosening. Used an outside action wrench for removal.
I haven't heard that but my guess is you'd break the wrench way before you'd break the action. Again I was only using it initially to see if I could measure the torque needed to remove it.
the barrel was turning in the vice the first couple tries, rosin (i bought a rosin bag for baseball bat gripping) which helps increase friction & prevent the spin.,, i've heard of brown sugar being used, but have never tried it myself.
When i did mine. I cranked on it for hours. Wouldnt budge. I ended up taking a die grinder and a cutting wheel and making relief cuts about 1/16” from the face of the action. Took very little effort after the relief cuts
Well done!
Great content & work! Was that a Sendero contour barrel and did you have to do any inletting to the UPR stock in order to ensure the new barrel was still free floated?
Yes I did. It wasn't difficult at all. Just some 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. I worked slowly and checked often.
That "marring" in your barrel is most likely aluminium from those bushings. Aluminium cant mar stainless steel, but it can sit really tight in a bead blasted barrel. Using rosin powder between barrel and bushings will prevent turning.
I'd suggest using anti-sieze on barrel threads vs grease.. grease will dry/ run out/ break down over time (due to heat).
even if it dries out / breaks down, it's going to add some layer of anti seize far better then dry. (IMO)
I'm planning on building my own barrel vice that has a two clamp system just for tikka barrels
Just need a thousand worth of tools and a workshop to use em, then you don't need to take it to the gunsmith 😔
You could fairly easily make most of what you would need with some basic tools.
You can rent everything you need, and save considerable money compared to a gunsmith
At most 250 bucks...
Barrel vice is useful for more then just barrel swaps. you can add and removed muzzle devices or you can do some aggressive barrel cleaning...
Barrel vice 50 bucks
Torque wrench 50 bucks
Action wrench 100 bucks
Torch and freeze spray 15 bucks
Many gun stores will let you borrow go no go gauges with a 50 to 100 buck deposit.
Besides the action wrench and barrel vice every other tool has multiple purposes....
Quit whining
@@aaronunterseher1627 OK nice guy.. the whole world doesn't use the American dollar, nor do they have access to items from the USA without duty and transport fees.
As to why you would pay a 50-100 deposit for an item that costs $50 is beyond me.
"Besides the action wrench and barrel vice every other tool has multiple purposes.... "
"Barrel vice is useful for more then just barrel swaps."
Well is the barrel vice multi purpose or not, first you say no then your poor choice of wording contradicts itself.. don't bother reply.. we already know how a vice operates.
"Quit whining"
Get out of your basement and insult people IRL... see how well that goes for you. You can always go back to being a keyboard warrior later.. nobody will see your bloody nose when you post online.
@@foonus406 God your soo damn original with the your basement comment and key board warrior.
The fact you would go for violence when someone would tell you to quit whining says how in capable you are at taking critism. Im sure you fuck alot up in your life and have been told that several times for it to strike a nerve that hard.
I don't give a shit where you are you won't spend 1 grand USD converted for tools to switch a barrel ... your whining, embelishing and attempting to seek attention...
Your comment to begin with was to cast insult and belittle the video maker because he was using premium tools.
You had to attempt twisting my words to serve your argument only to mention to not bother replying because you new already your shit was weak
If your being a whining bitch Ill tell them there being a whiny bitch.
So ima say it again....
Quit whining.
The issue is not cranking it down its the need to do so with the index card in there. More better is a Savage action (or a Remage setup) that does not need that.
My custom rifle started out with as a factory Howa 1500 short action. I used a proper barrel vice and a short action customs action wrench. I ended up having to take it a gunsmith and the only way the gunsmith could get the factory barrel off was to cut it off. Depending on the brand, sometimes the horror stories are true. I'm planning second custom soon that will be built on another Howa 1500 short action. When the time comes I may try again but I'm ready take to the smith if required.
i have a Howa 1500 and may want to swap out the barrel.. so the gunsmith had to make a relief cut to remove the barrel?
@@plrodrig123 Yes that is what he had to do.
I used Wheeler wrench ,SAC vise , paper tape,Rosen powder, NO HEAT. Can be done wasn’t that hard . Don,t be afraid.
mine came off easy with a barrel vise and internal action wrench. A bit of liquid nitrogen to cool the old barrel and it came loose quite easily. Put a spent case in the chamber, and fill the barrel with liquid nitrogen, add a small amount of heat to the action (emphasis on small), tighten first then loosen.
Wouldn't it be easier to use the torque wrench on the other side where you are going downwards instead of upwards? You are absolutely brave in doing something like this. Most people would just find a gunsmith or just not bother and buy a new gun instead.
Pulling up on the lever arm allows me to easily put pressure downward on the center axis to avoid racking the whole mechanism in one way or another. Either way will work.
I knocked a tooth out doing something similar.
Nice work! I will be doing the barrel on my Tikka as well. Did you purchase the tools or rent them from somewhere? If you purchased, would you be willing to rent them out perhaps?
I purchased them. Sorry, my tools don't leave my bench. I'll bet you could find someone local to you that would lend you a few.
Check out EBay, seen some used gun tools there, including wrenches for my 1917 Enfield
Awesome video, want to do a tikka so this helps. Make some more videos, how did the barrel shoot?
The new barrel shoots great. Sub 1/2 moa at 100yrds if I'm shooting well. More importantly, it prints groups that are very tolerant of pressure variations and can fire long strings without heating up too much. To be fair, the old barrel also shot about 1/2 moa, but would heat up pretty quickly and stay hot for a while.
Awesome 👌
good stuff
On my way to the range. Going to find out if the internal wrench and torque wrench are truly essential LOL
It didn't blow up. Also I didn't need heat or freeze spray. It was on their tight but a 5' snipe got it off pretty easy.
To install a heavy competition barrel the front of the action requires squaring. The factory barrel counter sinks into the action (look at video 5:08). I have had two T-3's rebarreled for competition and both required this process.
Wasn't necessary here. Sorry to hear about your saggy barrels.
Make sure you square it to the bore of the action not the face of the action.
It was moving the last attempt with the torque wrench. You had it same as broke loose at that point.
good video. Remember to remove firing pin and spring to check headspace. checking headspace with an assembled bolt does not tell you the whole story.
Firing pin and spring does not interfere with headspace what so ever. What are you talking about?
@@matthewgraham9475 correct, a firing pin and spring does not affect headspace. However, it DOES affect your ability to properly measure headspace on bolt action rifles. Fighting against the spring will not provide the most accurate feedback when checking headspace with a GO/NOGO gauge.
Are the threads loctited on or something? Heat usually gets that going. Yeah we used like LN2 to remove stubborn bots before, a little more drastic than that spray can stuff. Good you show this because so many things can be done at home if one is careful and no need to freak out and send it to the gun smith for simple things. My only concern was the use of a propane torch and not a heat gun and i would have checked that temperature.
I think they heat up the action or barrel when they assemble them.
So what size of dog butt did you use? My dog is bigger than yours so not sure if it’s gonna work😢
Did I miss it or did you explain why you wanted to remove the barrel? Most Tikka's I've owned shot like a custom rifle with factory ammo right out of the box.
The barrel that came with my UPR was great. I replaced mine because it's my hunting rifle as well as my competition rifle. That means it needs to be light but I also want the forgiving heavy contour that doesn't heat up too much with long strings of shots. Otherwise, you have to switch it out when it's shot out anyway, which is why a lot of people change over their factory barrel.
i was under impression tikka made world class barrels as well as actions? what was the reason for replacing the barrel if they are as good as tikka claims? hows your grouping now with that new barrel? is it tikka brand barrel as well? thnx
Tikka barrels are great. that being said there's always something better. The Proof barrel maybe shoots slightly tighter groups, but more importantly is lighter (hunting) and doesn't heat up over longer shot strings (competition). The other big reason to change your barrel is when it's shot out.
@@BrooklynBowyer i have noticed rounds starting to fade off after the barrel warms up. i may check that barrel out someday. thanks, never thought about the heat up side of barrels. are those carbon barrels long lasting?
Maybe a dumb question, but can you not just use a half inch impact? Even my old ass brushed one cant do 300ft/lbs.
As far as barrel goes. Is the proof barrel that much better for accuracy over the tikka ? Tikka can easily shoot under .5 moa.
This is purely anecdotal but I saw a slight but definitive improvement in accuracy. I went from an average of .75moa 10 shot groups to .5moa 10 shot groups. More importantly, my groups dont move as the barrel heats up. And it's slightly lighter... If that's your thing. Take that for what you will.
Most auto parts stores will loan you a torque wrench for free or a nominal amount.
Did that barrel come pre timed for the Tikka action? or is is just the 80lbp that gets the headspace right?
I could be wrong, but I don't believe it's timed in the traditional sense of the word, in that when the shoulder hits, there's no part of the barrel that needs to be facing a certain direction. That being said, it is a shouldered prefit, meaning it's machined so that when the shoulder of the barrel makes contact with the action, after applying 80 ft-lbs of torque, the headspace should be just right. I hope that answers your question.
@@BrooklynBowyer I think what he’s asking is if the markings on the barrel (proof’s logo, chambering, twist) are properly timed
@@noahhorinek If that's the question, then the answer is no, it's not timed in that sense. That being said, the chambering and twist rate are marked all the way around the barrel, so it's really not an issue. The Proof logo, however, is mostly under the barrel, hidden by the stock. Hope that helps.
Great video ! Upside down you look like Hugh Jackman - aka Wolverine, just saying
I'll take it.
Next time use some rosin for removal. It will stop any slipping.
OH SHIT WHATS UP ERIC! Party Squad GOOOO!!!!
Yooooo! Missed you last match! You back in March?
@@BrooklynBowyer I'll actually be shooting the NRL Hunter match March 3,4,5 with Hans down in Julian. But I expect to make it back in April if I'm not still crying in the fetal position by then
Question about the UPR stock: does the barrel channel clear the carbon barrel? Did you need to modify it?
Unfortunately not. I had to open up the barrel inlet to accept and clear the beefier barrel. That being said. It wasn't difficult. 30 min of effort with 80grit paper wrapped around a dowel of a similar diameter to my new barrel.
@@BrooklynBowyer thanks! Any change in the rigidity of the fore end after you did the channel work?
@@teasipper6106 a slight loss in rigidity yes, but nothing that made any functional difference. Worst case you just throw a SRS rail underneath and stiffen it back up. I eventually sold the UPR stock and replaced it with a KRG Bravo. Love the Bravo but I wish I hadn't sold the UPR. It's a really great stock.
@@BrooklynBowyer gotcha. It is a beautiful stock. The Bravo is functional but not as sexy.
Why didn't you use the wheeler with a cheater bar pipe slid over the handle of the wheeler to create more leverage?
New gun owner here. I bought a Tikka T3X UPR and don’t understand why I would need to change the barrel. Is it due ti quality ir weight or something else? Thx
You definitely don't need to. The UPR comes with a great barrel. The reasoning switched is I wanted a heavier contour with some weight savings. The other reason would be if your barrel is shot out. Hope they helps.
Where’d you get the Proof barrel already chambered and ready to install sir?
I bought mine from a guy who didn't end up using it. I believe he ordered it directly from Proof.
You had slight movement of action when using torque wrench … another attempt would have done it !!
Yeah I saw that. I actually tried it a few times but only recorded the one where I got a bit of movement so it was the only shot I had after the fact. No dice either way.
The barrel moved about 2* at 3:05 with your 200# setting.
Have you tried any other barrel vices?
I haven't. I'm a fan of SAC products (even though they're definitely on the pricey side), but from what I've seen, pretty much any of them will do the trick.
Dude sounds like Norm Macdonald
It actually moved at 3.03.
WHERE DID YOU LEDT FINGER TIPS GO?
Man 250 ft lbs is a shit ton. I would assumed 250 in lbs lol.
No... I've had to use 6' cheater bars to remove barrels in the past, 250 in# would be barely "snug'... not what you want with 50,000 psi of burning gases inches from your face :)
7:35 looks like a horse bit you pretty hard
They're not joking when they say hold the carrot with a flat hand.
Cannot stress how bad an idea it is to use your torque wrench as a breaker bar.
Luckily wasn't doing that. The point of the torque wrench was to see if I could get it loose within 250 ft-lbs. Wasn't possible so the torque wrench was put away. No torque wrenches were harmed in the making of this film.
Mark over at Short Action Customs was a good student of mine back in the day when he was in gunsmith school I just don't see why you didn't cut to the chase and get with it instead of going with all this other junk prior in the video, It confuses people that don't know. Tikka and push feed Winchesters are the easiest to change barrels on by far
What stock did you go with?
The stock in the video is the factory Tikka UPR stock. It's a good one.
👍👍👍👍👍
what scope rail is that?
Factory rail that came with the UPR
I see zero (0) reason to remove a Tikka barrel. Most that I have seen are far more accurate than their owner- including me. The guns are at least equal in accuracy to old school Remington 700- and a lot lighter and more compact. I put about 10,000 rounds through a Remington 700 and sold it rather than rethroat the barrel- but I never owned a rifle anywhere near as accurate as that 700 until I bought a Tikka T3. Tikkas are cheap enough to buy whatever configuration you might prefer and sell the ones you don't like. The bare bones base model works fine. Mine is boringly accurate- routinely shoots 1 "to 1.25" with most factory ammo. I had a difficult time beating that with handloads- but I did it with loads very close to that old Remington 700.
Take the scope rail off for crying out loud! And the Wheeler action wrench has more mechanical advantages because of the longer handle!
Not at all necessary to remove the rail as it turns out. You're right about the handle, but the reason I had to switch to the Wheeler is the torque limitation on the SAC wrench. Didn't want to ruin it with all that force.
How did you index the barrel?
Didn't need to.
@@BrooklynBowyer that's cool, why didn't it need to be indexed? I thought barrels needed to? (Sorry total noob here)
@@scorpinock2 New barrels are blank tubes. No sights or drilled holes to align. That comes later, if needed. Some rifle barrels, like an AR or a Savage, are not threaded, but use a slip-over threaded collar that can allow for clocking a barrel if sights or gas ports must be aligned plumb.
There’s quite a few bad practices here. Never use a through action action wrench to remove factory barrels. A constant steady torque while removing is why your barrel spun. Use a sharp impact and a breaker bar instead of a torque wrench to remove so you don’t tear up a torque wrench
Maybe the video isn't quite clear. The point of the torque wrench in the beginning was to see if we could determine how much is needed to get the barrel off. In general I wouldn't ever use a torque wrench to loosen anything but it's used here to try and get a measurement for curious parties. Unfortunately the torque needed surpassed the capabilities of the wrench. Hope that clarifies things for you.
@@BrooklynBowyer the video is very clear. You explained the limits of the tools and never pushed them past that. In fact it was quite a useful education because it let everyone know you really need both wrenches to do it properly.
Hi, how much torque did you apply to the screws on the barrel vise? Thanks in advance for your reply
Why would you want to remove the barrel anyway, unless it’s worn out ? It’s the best part of a Tikka. I’d remove the plastic trigger guard and bolt shroud or the two piece bolt first.
Honestly everything the UPR comes with including stock, trigger guard etc is really quality. But... You can always get something better. It's a sickness. Hope that answers your question.
Yep. It’s a rabbit hole.
Why do you say that about Home Depot?
Massive markup and matrix pricing
Use a piece of bicycle inner tube next time....
Who cares how much torque it takes to remove it? Or how much to install the new one ?
Based on your video, I went an bought a Wheeler #2 action wrench for this exact project.....you are using a #1 wrench, not a #2. A #2 won't work. You should update your video with the correct information so folks don't waste time and money, like I did. My fault really, because I should have double checked and verified the correct wrench before buying.
I’d be very cautions heating your action with a propane torch..and then cooling it fast with freeze spray . You’re changing the grain structure of that steel brittle . Not wise
True but quality tools are not cheap. Send it off to gunsmith and wait how long this seeee.. 7 to 9 months ? So if no hurry go that route and pay them what 3 400 bucks maybe more..
That is barely doable at home. I sent mine to a smith for the first time . I will get a prefit next time.
Never,
Ever,
I mean ever
Use an analog torque wrench in the reverse position.
It smokes em.
There are supposedly some than can.
But don’t do it