Some boards like Carrier Comercial RTU's come with a place to connect the detector this is always preferred, but if they don't it is better to break 24 to the control board to cause an immediate shutdown of the blower. This is required in our area. With ECM motors an isolation relay is also required. besides breaking power to the board you must also break the high voltage to the fan, otherwise the fan will continue to run until it times out. In our area the duct detector must be sensing after the blower motor, in case the motor were to catch fire. This can be done by mounting the detector before the blower with one tube open to the compartment and the second tube with a hose or pipe connected after the blower compartment. No need for the sampling tubes, the difference in pressure before and after the blower, will cause the detector to sample. If Interlocking detectors they must all use A SINGLE TRANSFORMER dasy-chaining it from RTU to RTU. If you attempt to use more than one transformer you will blow up boards and transformers Mount detectors so water won't fall into the plastic housing, this is a common failure point when condensate drips into the detector.
we always add a RTS2-AOS test station. We are never aloud to hook up anything to the panel. EVER. That has to be done by a licensed tech. Sometimes depending on the city we aren't even aloud to install the duct detector itself
Never see the Smokes in the Units up on the roof here, just below the roof in the supply and return ducts. Also we use the Air Products SL-2000's with their FastTubes (pack of three 24" tubes) and just snap together and cut (the plastic tube) to length as necessary...light weight, not conduit style with punched holes.
Thanks for the video! I hate that york sells those units with those terrible filters. Nobody ever remembers to order replacements. And then the coils are super dirty when we come back. Especially if its a resteraunt.
Nice video Jeff I am assuming the duct smoke sensor requirement is because the unit for heat is natural gas. Or the unit uses a2l refrigerent which I don't like at all.
If a fire breaks out in any part of the building and smoke starts getting into the ducts, the detector will shut the system down and alert the fire department. You don't want to have your HVAC system feeding oxygen to a fire or spreading smoke to other parts of the building.
While it works fine the way you wired it. Those boards have a duct smoke shutdown set of contacts and the simplicity board will display "ductsmoke shutdown" when they trip, instead of just killing 24v to it.... Just makes it easier when troubleshooting for the next guy. Side note i hate those York/JC boards. 120 seconds evertome you cycle the unit, so stupid. Hopefully Bosch gets rid of those eventually.
That doesn't work in all areas, because interrupting R doesn't give an immediate shutdown of the fans. Should use the designated spot on board or interrupt power to board.
Some boards like Carrier Comercial RTU's come with a place to connect the detector this is always preferred, but if they don't it is better to break 24 to the control board to cause an immediate shutdown of the blower. This is required in our area.
With ECM motors an isolation relay is also required. besides breaking power to the board you must also break the high voltage to the fan, otherwise the fan will continue to run until it times out.
In our area the duct detector must be sensing after the blower motor, in case the motor were to catch fire. This can be done by mounting the detector before the blower with one tube open to the compartment and the second tube with a hose or pipe connected after the blower compartment. No need for the sampling tubes, the difference in pressure before and after the blower, will cause the detector to sample.
If Interlocking detectors they must all use A SINGLE TRANSFORMER dasy-chaining it from RTU to RTU. If you attempt to use more than one transformer you will blow up boards and transformers
Mount detectors so water won't fall into the plastic housing, this is a common failure point when condensate drips into the detector.
we always add a RTS2-AOS test station. We are never aloud to hook up anything to the panel. EVER. That has to be done by a licensed tech. Sometimes depending on the city we aren't even aloud to install the duct detector itself
Wow. Pretty strict.
Good job 👍
Never see the Smokes in the Units up on the roof here, just below the roof in the supply and return ducts. Also we use the Air Products SL-2000's with their FastTubes (pack of three 24" tubes) and just snap together and cut (the plastic tube) to length as necessary...light weight, not conduit style with punched holes.
Great job Jeff always learn from your videos
Good to hear brother
Thanks for the video! I hate that york sells those units with those terrible filters. Nobody ever remembers to order replacements. And then the coils are super dirty when we come back. Especially if its a resteraunt.
I know right!
Nice 👍🏼 😊as always 😊
Great video. Thank you for sharing
They are also asking for a condensate safety,float,and it has to be inside the unit.
Haven’t heard that one yet.
We don't have that requirement on an RTU either.
Nice video Jeff I am assuming the duct smoke sensor requirement is because the unit for heat is natural gas.
Or the unit uses a2l refrigerent which I don't like at all.
Just any ducted system over 2000 cfm they say. 🤷♂️
If a fire breaks out in any part of the building and smoke starts getting into the ducts, the detector will shut the system down and alert the fire department. You don't want to have your HVAC system feeding oxygen to a fire or spreading smoke to other parts of the building.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures thanks this must be a Comercial hvac requirement in Maryland not sure about Pennsylvania.
All fire alarm thermostat wiring by code has to have a red jacket and plenum rated
While it works fine the way you wired it. Those boards have a duct smoke shutdown set of contacts and the simplicity board will display "ductsmoke shutdown" when they trip, instead of just killing 24v to it.... Just makes it easier when troubleshooting for the next guy.
Side note i hate those York/JC boards. 120 seconds evertome you cycle the unit, so stupid.
Hopefully Bosch gets rid of those eventually.
Yea I figured they did have a shutdown feature.
Yes hopefully Bosch improves a lot of stuff! 🤙
That doesn't work in all areas, because interrupting R doesn't give an immediate shutdown of the fans. Should use the designated spot on board or interrupt power to board.
What do you charge your customers per hour for a job like this?
This was part of a quoted install price but typically we charge $145 an hour.