Smaller drills, working up to a decent "sleeve" diameter in the broken thread, then using an ezy - out would prevent the need from tapping a size up. You drilled off centre too. Never good if some bracket was supposed to back on there (mis-alignment) Patience vs. brute force is always better. Just my $0.02 Cheers
Broke off a steel bolt in aluminum housing....cut bolt flush with hole...drill hole (will dull out drill bits fairly quick have at least two packs handy) in middle of bolt (takes awhile) ....tap screw extractor in hole with hammer or rubber mallet til snug...turn counter clockwise with adjustable wrench....NO RETHREADING NECESSARY! Don't knock until you try it 👍👍👍
I tried that ONCE, and the extractor broke off in the hole. Never again! If the head of the bolt wouldn't remove it, what makes anyone think a spindly, brittle extractor is going to do anything?
@@tempest411 When bolt head is broken off then there wouldn't be any pressure on threads anymore, so it could come off easier-but if it broke due to rust in threads then extractor would make things worse.
This isn't the way I would do this but I'm not going to shit on you like some of the comments. One thing I would mention is that if you're going to tap the hole then do half turn one way and a quarter turn the other way, otherwise you're just going to snap the tap
I don't quite understand the video but I know there are multiple ways to handle it and he stressed trying to show one of them. Not everybody has drill outs or easy outs and tap and dies Etc. So good to know multiple ways even though I still don't get this one...
Matt--I agree with the others that there was a better/easier way to do this (i.e., using a smaller LH drill to start, then use an extractor). BTW, was the hole where the bolt snapped a mounting point for the trans, or did it hold something externally, like part of the shift linkage? That might also make a difference in how you would approach this. What we also need to know was whether the bolt broke because it was weak and the head snapped off; if it was threaded in off-center and snapped or if it had been Loctited in place and you over-torqued it during the removal. If the latter was known to be the case, heating the area AROUND the bolt might have loosened things up to the point that it could have easily been extracted. Another option was to heat the area, then melt some beeswax into the threads to "lubricate" everything, again easing the extraction process. And that "holding device" for the tap is called a tap wrench. So, why did the head of the bolt snap? Thanks.
2:08 the "holding device" is called a tap wrench by those of us who know what her tools are called! And like the other people who commented, you start with a much smaller drill first called a pilot drill, and then your whole won't be off centre, of course it does help if you can actually hold the drill steady whilst drilling it or better still use a pillar drill which is in the same orientation as the hole you want to drill. So everybody who is still none the wiser watch this video on how to properly remove broken studs ruclips.net/video/dJfkCj3FWBs/видео.html
What I need to know is what kind of drill bit to use to drill it out none I have found are working I even bought a set that was SUPPOSE to work and they are trash
Job done,but I feel you finesse it a bit,the pilot hole was off centre,you could have corrected that by angling the drill to move it,use a bit 2mm smaller than the hole,look out for an old 2 speed drill,I think there about 600 watts,that drill was spinning too fast for metal work
yea everybody said what i would have said....EZ OUT Extractor and the drill bit is matched to the size of the tap...read the directions it will have a matching drill bit size for each tap
Yeah, that's a ghetto way that people do that are too cheap to get a Heli-Coil or Time-Sert. On top of that he drilled off center, and didn't drill straight, so his hole was actually pretty bell-shaped. Those first 3-5 threads he tapped are loosey-goosey!
Yes, and yes there is. You need you drill the bolt out with the tap size drill bit, and then use a tap of the original threads to tap the rest of the bolt out.
Snapped a 3/16 inch screw. Would I use a 1/8 bit or 3/16 bit if I need to tapped hole to be 3/16 (I'm attaching something to the first part and the part I'm attaching is 3/16 any input would be helpful :) thankw
+jabhip With aluminum, you don't have to be so careful with going back every turn since it is very soft. I usually only back it up when I feel it getting stiff.
worst extract i have ever seen...why the hell did you use such a gigantic drill bit??? a smaller drill bit would have avoided having to tap up.....well done on making the centre uneven.
That doesn't work when the threads of the broken bolt are fused to the threads of the hole it's in. I'm in that situation now. The heat of welding didn't break the bolt free of corrosion.
Lucky the tap didn't break he never backed it out even once to clear the chips
""Anyone that served their time would never drill that size, from a pilot hole "" I'm sorry , but there is a correct way.""
thanks for sharing this video. best of luck with your mechanical endeavors.
Smaller drills, working up to a decent "sleeve" diameter in the broken thread, then using an ezy - out would prevent the need from tapping a size up. You drilled off centre too. Never good if some bracket was supposed to back on there (mis-alignment) Patience vs. brute force is always better. Just my $0.02 Cheers
Broke off a steel bolt in aluminum housing....cut bolt flush with hole...drill hole (will dull out drill bits fairly quick have at least two packs handy) in middle of bolt (takes awhile) ....tap screw extractor in hole with hammer or rubber mallet til snug...turn counter clockwise with adjustable wrench....NO RETHREADING NECESSARY! Don't knock until you try it 👍👍👍
I tried that ONCE, and the extractor broke off in the hole. Never again! If the head of the bolt wouldn't remove it, what makes anyone think a spindly, brittle extractor is going to do anything?
@@tempest411 When bolt head is broken off then there wouldn't be any pressure on threads anymore, so it could come off easier-but if it broke due to rust in threads then extractor would make things worse.
Good video fast n easy straight to the point fucken great !
This isn't the way I would do this but I'm not going to shit on you like some of the comments.
One thing I would mention is that if you're going to tap the hole then do half turn one way and a quarter turn the other way, otherwise you're just going to snap the tap
Awesome video. I am going to do the same to remove stuck screw on my wiper motor assembly.
I don't quite understand the video but I know there are multiple ways to handle it and he stressed trying to show one of them. Not everybody has drill outs or easy outs and tap and dies Etc. So good to know multiple ways even though I still don't get this one...
Am I the only one that has a set of easy outs?
Matt--I agree with the others that there was a better/easier way to do this (i.e., using a smaller LH drill to start, then use an extractor). BTW, was the hole where the bolt snapped a mounting point for the trans, or did it hold something externally, like part of the shift linkage? That might also make a difference in how you would approach this. What we also need to know was whether the bolt broke because it was weak and the head snapped off; if it was threaded in off-center and snapped or if it had been Loctited in place and you over-torqued it during the removal. If the latter was known to be the case, heating the area AROUND the bolt might have loosened things up to the point that it could have easily been extracted. Another option was to heat the area, then melt some beeswax into the threads to "lubricate" everything, again easing the extraction process. And that "holding device" for the tap is called a tap wrench. So, why did the head of the bolt snap? Thanks.
2:08 the "holding device" is called a tap wrench by those of us who know what her tools are called! And like the other people who commented, you start with a much smaller drill first called a pilot drill, and then your whole won't be off centre, of course it does help if you can actually hold the drill steady whilst drilling it or better still use a pillar drill which is in the same orientation as the hole you want to drill.
So everybody who is still none the wiser watch this video on how to properly remove broken studs ruclips.net/video/dJfkCj3FWBs/видео.html
What I need to know is what kind of drill bit to use to drill it out none I have found are working I even bought a set that was SUPPOSE to work and they are trash
Job done,but I feel you finesse it a bit,the pilot hole was off centre,you could have corrected that by angling the drill to move it,use a bit 2mm smaller than the hole,look out for an old 2 speed drill,I think there about 600 watts,that drill was spinning too fast for metal work
Yeah you're right, there's me thinking its a cast iron crankcase.
Brave man.
yea everybody said what i would have said....EZ OUT Extractor
and the drill bit is matched to the size of the tap...read the directions it will have a matching drill bit size for each tap
Is that a bigger bolt than the one you started with?
Yeah, that's a ghetto way that people do that are too cheap to get a Heli-Coil or Time-Sert. On top of that he drilled off center, and didn't drill straight, so his hole was actually pretty bell-shaped. Those first 3-5 threads he tapped are loosey-goosey!
could of used a left handed drill bit it would of came out by it self
I could have, but I wanted to do a video on drilling out a bolt. Thought it would be more interesting.
nick davies That doesn't work if the bolt had siezed up, and twisted off-!
1.25 couldve easily swept that crap up but just blow it all round the place...
Good job Thanks!!!
Could you not use a left turning drill bit to back out the broken bolt? Too much corrosion?
informative, thank you...
the new bolt has bigger size than the origin size??, is there any solution to keep the origin size of bolt??
Yes, and yes there is. You need you drill the bolt out with the tap size drill bit, and then use a tap of the original threads to tap the rest of the bolt out.
Weld a nut to the broken bolt ...
....or we can drill a small hole in the broken bolt and put a torx key in it and remove it that way...
do they make anything small enough for a 7mm bolt head. trying to replace parts on a bbq and all screws came out using heat only 1 snapped off.
Yes they do.
cutting oil?
Snapped a 3/16 inch screw. Would I use a 1/8 bit or 3/16 bit if I need to tapped hole to be 3/16 (I'm attaching something to the first part and the part I'm attaching is 3/16 any input would be helpful :) thankw
Thanks*
Use the tap size for 3/16, which is a #26. This is a tricky thing to do as you need to make sure you are dead nuts in the center of the bolt shaft.
Ditto !! !
Forward half turn back quarter turn, and so on
+jabhip With aluminum, you don't have to be so careful with going back every turn since it is very soft. I usually only back it up when I feel it getting stiff.
+MattsMotorz lol. Supposed to stick it in further when it feels stiff I thought
@@MattsMotorz I've seen plenty of broken taps in aluminum.
what about if the whole tab broken, can u weld it back?
Welding cast aluminum is very difficult. It can be done but it will be hard to find someone who can do it. Brazing is easier but not as strong.
worst extract i have ever seen...why the hell did you use such a gigantic drill bit??? a smaller drill bit would have avoided having to tap up.....well done on making the centre uneven.
Andrew Smith ...WELL, YOU CAN'T PLEASE EVERYONE-!!!
storto!
si se lubrica es mejor
Why drill... Waste of time... Weld a nut pull it out and just put a new bolt in
That doesn't work when the threads of the broken bolt are fused to the threads of the hole it's in. I'm in that situation now. The heat of welding didn't break the bolt free of corrosion.
Bad methode