Mr. Chapman, I have seen hundreds of fancy videos teaching how to paint, none like yours, they are unique. Very professional work Sir. Thanks millions of times
Another job well done brother! Very clear and concise...makes it easy for people to follow and make sense out of. You have helped folks here who might have been thinking about trying the floor polish as an alternative to a clear coat. It works very well! Nice job man!
Thanks again Gary! I plan to do the polishing tomorrow as I got out on my bike to go to the store five minutes away and 359 miles and a tank and a half of gas I arrived home and never did make it to the store.
Thanks for your tutorials, they really help me out a lot and you spoke of mistakes I am making. I appreciate it and I am sure there are plenty of others who do.
Although not accepted by the hard core boat enthusiasts, I've used the mop and shine on my boat and it works great, it's easy to apply, and it's inexpensive. Nice work!.
Todd H Well it is and it is not. It works great but cost a lot. I go to the dollar store and get LA's Totally Awesome degreaser. Two bottles of that in a plastic container will run 2 bucks and I think it works better. Also great for removing chrome. If you have purple power then by all means use it. Also the LA's does not do anything for lacquer based paint but is just as good on enamel paint.
Todd H Cool. If you get a chance check out Hobby Lobby. So many more colors to choose from and they have more metallic's, pearl's and colors then you will know what to do with.
Nice looking model. I just started using this technique with the pledge future polish. I love the results. Thanks for sharing. I liked and subbed to your channel 👍😃
Just wanted 2 say thank u for the video. I usually paint with rattle cans and have had a lot of bad luck when applying my clear. I bought a airbrush about a week ago 2 paint acrylics and again horrible clear coats no matter what I used rattle cans, createx and so on. Used this method and just put ONE HELL OF A SHINE on a 1:64 scale 56 Ford. Wow thanks again. I've never even used an airbrush before 🤯
Thank you very much Doc! I have one on applying acrylics and doing one now on polishing floor polish. As you have said many, many times, STAY TUNED. lol.
Hi Chris, I have just got an airbrush and am keen to learn how to use it. Your tutorials are great, thank you. You mentioned at the very end of this video that you would go ahead and polish the car; what is involved with that ? Cheers, Pete
Hi Chris, Once again, many thanks Sir for sharing this with us, I for one certainly appreciate it... Looking forward to seeing many more of your videos... All the best... John... P.S...Sorry, I keep meaning to ask about your spray booth, may I ask what kind it is please...
Great video, and I like to see the Q-tip trick of getting any debris off before it levels out and dries...if you do use a hairdryer, the clear will be dry in 10-15 minutes or about 15-20 minutes?
Hair dryer will dry floor polish in about five. I do however like to let it sit overnight and dry naturally. That way it gives it time to level . An hour air dry will be dry enough but I like an overnight time frame.
I am sure you cover it while drying overnight, I placed my last one under an inverted plastic tub. With the leveling, I guess as long as its not put on too heavy, it shouldn't pool enough in any corners to be noticeable, should it?
Great video. I tried using that floor polish on our kitchen floor and it wasn`t that shiny maybe a bad batch or something. I`ll definitely give it a try on a nova ihave to clear. Thanks for sharing
I just keep putting it on and building it up until I get a shine. I also rely on MaGuire's yellow wax to bring out the real shine. I have another video called polishing floor polish. Check it out if you want. Thanks for watching bud. I just sub'd to you as well.
what tips would you give on brush painting, Instead of airbrush,I noticed you putting quit a bit of paint and the windshield and floor polish, so I would need to put numerous coats of paint and windshield and floor polish with a brush to get the look you have, even with airplanes and tanks?
If using acrylic paint thin at a 50/50 ratio. Put on a coat then let it dry. Use 800 grit then 1000 grit sand paper and lightly sand until smooth. Keep doing this until it gets to what you want. Do the sad he with clear.
@@ChrisChapman195 Do the sad with clear.what do you mean? and do i use windshield washer to thin the paint with, I want you use oil or acrylic because they are not harmful,and paint here isn't 89 cents, it's $7.98 for a small bottle and the tubes are $15.00
@@timothybooker1402 That should have read "do the same" stupid cell phone. Oil or acrylic I use windshield washer fluid. You want it thick enough to stick to the car but thin enough that it won't have much brush streaks. Use a very soft brush. I personally would go to the dollar store if you have one and get some cheap make up applicator brushes in the make up isle. They work great and cheap. Use washer fluid in a separate container to wash your brush in as well. Put it something with a lid so you can use it over and over.
Great tutorial Chris. I wish I would have stocked up on the LA totally awesome mop and shine before they changed the formula. What clear are you using now?
Thanks for that video, trying to go back to modeling cars again (use to be a hobby when I was a teen), Your tips and tricks make it easier for me. One quick question, after clearing, if any issues happens with some dusts or just not being smooth enough. Can I wet sand using something like 2000 grit or it is better to use Novus polishing? Thanks again,
If there is a blemish you can start with 1000 grit paper and dry sand just the area that needs it no need to do the whole car. Then use 12000 and 15000 then shoot a light coat of floor polish over the area until it matches the surrounded area's. Now polish it out. Also you can use any polish system like 3M, Tamiya and others. I myself like the Novus. Thanks for watching.
Chris Chapman Thanks for the tip, I already ordered on amazon the Novus system, waiting for it. I will try to give a go with the sandpaper I have, up to 2000 since I don't have any 12000 or 15000 with me. Thanks again for you great videos. I will keep following :)
Chris- I noticed when watching this video, you never pause after you apply a coat of paint ( I thought you were supposed to wait 10 minutes between coats, same with the clearcoat), do you have any tips on preventing wax that dries up and turns white?, or how to prevent it in the first place?
Hello Robert. With the acrylic paint it dries very fast. Putting on very light coats allows your paint to dry as you move around the body. Once you have the same look around the entire model stop and let it fully cure. when it comes to wax turning white are you talking about spraying wax for a clear or using a wax after a polish to protect the clear and shine?
Thanks for replying to my questions, as a newbie returning to the hobby, I like to look at different websites and glean as much information as I can- your way of doing things ( i.e. tips, techniques, cost savings... etc) is a great help! I'm using NOVUS for my final rub-out ( after 5 coats of Future
( whoops- I do that all the time). The problem comes with the NOVUS- it dries white and is hard as a rock in the panel lines. How do I prevent/ get rid of that
Thank you for making theses videos. Unfortunately I’m having trouble airbrushing on the Future clear. It seems no matter what I do, it won’t flow into a gloss coat, unless I flood it then it’s too much. I’m now suspected that my nozzle/jet is to big, judging by how much you are spraying. If I sprayed that long, it would be drenched. I’m using a paasch H with the medium jet. Do you know what size you are using? Thanks.
The trick is to hold airbrush back 8-10 inches away from the model and lightly build up the gloss. Just keep turning it as you spray until you have a shine all the way around. Too much and it will run.
@@ChrisChapman195 Thanks for responding. Just came in from 4 hours of battle with Pledge. I had waited 2 weeks for the previous to dry, wet sanded the entire car smooth, and tried to respray. Same result, more orange peel. Tried various air pressure, distance, switched to the smaller airbrush tip, even added some windex as others suggested. It has gloss, but will not level out smooth. I’ve painted real cars and never fought anything so hard. Your work is beautiful but I cannot make this stuff lay down.
@@hvspeed6102 The problem you may be having is your wet sanding .The Pledge is an acrylic like the paint. Once you add water it reactivates the acrylic making it mushy or wet again. Try spraying it as I mentioned before then dry sand lightly with 1000, 100 and then 1200 grit paper. Then use very little polish on small sections at a time so it does not get wet again. Then same process for a wax. Never use water on dry acrylic or it will bubble or turn to liquid again. I hope this helps.
@@ChrisChapman195 I didn’t know about the water softening the clear. The sanding didn’t seem to hurt anything, the clear just wouldn’t lay down again like the first go round. I’ll wait a week then try some polish, I have the Novus polish you were using. Thanks.
Thanks for the reply ChrisGot another question, I am building a AMT Hard body Slotcar. Its a 1966 Chevy Nova . I want put a rear wing like a ProMod style . I have not got a reply from Comp Resins
my mop and Shine has a milky look to it same bottle and everything But mine is from " family dollar" is it the same Stuff ? Love the videos By the way I use your painting Style on my tanks..
Yes mop & shine is milky from the bottle but dries 100% clear. ANd I get it from family dollar , dollar general and big lots sometimes carries it. You have the same stuff. Glad the vids are of help. Thanks for watching bud!
Matthew Gedert Mathew, I use pearl ex in with my future or polyacrylic clear. In fact besides a black base my main color's on my Cheeseburger build are going to be pearl ex mixed with future. I will wait for you cctb build to see what you think.
ok Chris, I've got a problem...... not doing good with the clear. does the paint need to be glossy to put this on? or will it eventually gloss up the flat paints? the only thing im getting out of this is a blue tint on my white paint. HELP please.
Awesome vid Chris they are helping a lot .. ill try to make a video tonight of my progress with craft acrylic paint .. So you can critique or correct my work LOL thanks again Chris
Yes, kind of. The Mop & Shine changed their formula and does not get the shine that it used to. I do use it for dullcoat and inner coat clears and sealing. I know have gone back to Pledge floor care. Not the wax but FLOOR CARE. That is all the same process and the only stuff I do.
+Chris Chapman I was just going to message you on the forum page and tell you that my Mop and Shine looked nothing like yours. Very cloudy out of the bottle. I will pick up my Pledge today. Thanks for all your tips.
Hello Roy, There is nothing wrong with your bottle. Mine is milky as well but the bottle I have it in reflected light weird or something. That is why it looks clear. However I did have an issue with a brand new bottle not working a week or so ago. I called the company and they said I may have gotten a bad batch. It still works for sealing in acrylics. Using as a dead flat and great for mixing acrylic washes. I hope you have better luck then I did with my last bottle.
Thanks for the reply Chris,I'm trying to power watch all your videos,not even sure if power watch is a term oh well at my age who cares ha ha.I'm new to modeling I worked on full size cars all my life and now pretty much totally disabled so this is what keeps whats left of my mind sharp.Any way thanks for the videos I'm learning a lot and keep them coming...
I use the windshield washer fluid. I spray 2 or three bowls then I wipe it out with windex window wipes. Then I pull it apart and wipe every thing down with the windex wipes. I get my Windex at the dollar store.
@@ChrisChapman195 Alberta Canada here. Thank you so much for the info. Have been using Rattle can clear coats and they work fine but i love the results you get with the pledge. Thanks again and I appreciate your videos and your time.
I have a question about the floor polish. Once in a while I do actual floor polishing here in my house, and I noticed that even tough the shine they leave is great, if you put your hand on the surface treated for too long, it will leave a mark, like if your own body oil or sweat would "eat" it out. Does it happen with the models??
I personally have not. However once I get a build done I put them away in a torage box. Only time I touch them is after I use a hand degreaser called goop. It removes all oil, dirt , grit and sweat so I don't take a chance of leaving a finger print.
I spray at 10-15 psi and it is an old hammond paint booth. bought it two years ago. Big bulky and expensive compared to some of the new light weight portable units that do the same thing for a quarter of the price.
Chris Chapman Chris, your video inspired to me to try something I was a little reluctant to do. I basically did more coats of future (future and simple green combo) and it's really working great. I was afraid to apply as much as you were. My goal was to get a really nice shine and It just wasn't happening with the amounts I was applying prior. However now I'm able to get that crazy shine I was looking for. thanks chris.
Chris Chapman Chris, you might want to try using simple green with it. It really works great, and it dries so much quicker. I can't see using future without it any longer. It creates a stronger hard, more protective coat while keeping the shine. I was doing 1 part simple, 3 parts future.. but I've discovered a little more simple helps. so I'm currently doing 90 drop future, 40 simple. looking forward to your next video.
Dale, it is the standard medium needle and tip that comes with the airbrush. I do plan to get a fine and large needle after I get back to work for flame and flake jobs.
Hello Michael, soo sorry for delay on getting back to you. I was in the hospital all weekend and had very little playtime with my phone. I am going to answer both questions here to save time to have to go look up another post. First, Testors one coat clear works great with acrylic paints. Make sure all your acrylics are smooth and ready to go and spray away. Second, I use 800 grit then 1000,1200 sandpaper lightly sanding over the entire car as to where the finish after 1500 is the same every where. Then a polish and wax lightly rubbed in small areas at a time will bring back the shine.
i will try and post some pics of the new 1967 plymouth gtx i am working on i would really like your personal opinion as i am striving to be a competition model builder
how well does this work with a flake paint job? I have a model I painted with the same type of acrylic paints, in a "glitter", granted I rattle canned the clear, but, I couldn't get the clear to come out smooth. I probably put 5 coats. couldn't tell if it was orange peel, or just not getting the clear thick enough to cover the texture of the flake. (the flake was thick!) any help is greatly appreciated.
Brandin, this acrylic mop $ shine is great if used properly. It will work for what you are doing as well It is self leveling so you don't have to worry. As long as you mist coat it on. Thin layers just how I did it at 10 PSI with little pressure. Mist it as you move the body around, back and forth and up and down. Light coats. as it builds up it will fill in any divots once past the divots it will continue to build up layer after layer and self level. The more you put on the shinier it will get. It will look cloudy at first then flat then the shine will start to come along. Continue until you achieve a consistent shine all over the body. Then polish (no sanding) and wax. Here is a link to a video I just did. The main paint was gloss black. I then used pearl ex powder for the roof and body in floor polish. I then cleared with just floor polish. So yes this will work for what you are doing. Enjoy!! Chevy Cheeseburger update 5
+Bad Mikes Model Shop well it looks like you got a bad batch. Unfortunately, they had a bunch come out for about a year that is cloudy and will not leave a shine. Because of this I have gone back to using Pledge floor care for my glossy finishes. I have a video explaining this but not many remember it lol. This bottle you have however works great for dull or flat finishes and sealing in the acrylics. I bought bottles and all but one were cloudy. I use it for my military and flat finishes on my rust buckets and it works great for that.
Hi had buy case just to one bottle from Dollar-Tree .Opened the box nine bottles LA's that is milky . Its all going back . and willjustuse what I have. How can LA's send this stuff outline that . could ruin some bodies floor or model project .
I have been. Thank you for asking. Trying to get better so I can get back to building. Here is my last video that explains whats happening. ruclips.net/video/RZjC2I4nUX8/видео.html
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Mr. Chapman, I have seen hundreds of fancy videos teaching how to paint, none like yours, they are unique. Very professional work Sir. Thanks millions of times
Thank you so much my friend. Very kind words.
i really like the way your telling people how to paint and how it works! very detailed on what and what not to do! very impressive video!
Again, thanks Thomas. I see no need in making this an expensive hobby.
Hey Chris,new to the channel,great work my friend,your details are amazing,keep the videos coming
Glad you're enjoying them. Thanks for watching.
Another job well done brother! Very clear and concise...makes it easy for people to follow and make sense out of. You have helped folks here who might have been thinking about trying the floor polish as an alternative to a clear coat. It works very well! Nice job man!
Thanks again Gary! I plan to do the polishing tomorrow as I got out on my bike to go to the store five minutes away and 359 miles and a tank and a half of gas I arrived home and never did make it to the store.
Chris Chapman Hah! As long as you had fun!!
Awesome video Chris! I am really enjoying this series as it is so informative. I look forward to your polishing video. TY for the effort Chris!
Thanks Ken. Polishing coming up tomorrow.
Thanks for your tutorials, they really help me out a lot and you spoke of mistakes I am making. I appreciate it and I am sure there are plenty of others who do.
Thank you for watching. I do hope they help. Let me know how things go.
Will definitely do that. I am working on a 67 Impala this weekend, will see how it goes!
Although not accepted by the hard core boat enthusiasts, I've used the mop and shine on my boat and it works great, it's easy to apply, and it's inexpensive. Nice work!.
Thank you. If something is not accepted by others but works for you, then forget the others and keep doing your thing. :)
This great Chris. Im excited to keep experimenting with the acrylics.
Thanks. waiting for more updates from ya.
Chris Chapman if I thin acrylics with future and decide I want to remove it from the body is the purple pond the best way to do that?
Todd H Well it is and it is not. It works great but cost a lot. I go to the dollar store and get LA's Totally Awesome degreaser. Two bottles of that in a plastic container will run 2 bucks and I think it works better. Also great for removing chrome. If you have purple power then by all means use it. Also the LA's does not do anything for lacquer based paint but is just as good on enamel paint.
Chris Chapman awesome. ..Thank you. I will be going to Walmart after work an getting more acrylics.
Todd H Cool. If you get a chance check out Hobby Lobby. So many more colors to choose from and they have more metallic's, pearl's and colors then you will know what to do with.
thanks Chris for your awesome videos! My models have improved by lightyears
+John Tomai Hey John, so glad to hear this. Keep me informed of your progress.
Nice looking model. I just started using this technique with the pledge future polish. I love the results. Thanks for sharing. I liked and subbed to your channel 👍😃
Hey, this is great to hear. Thank you so much and Hao modeling.
Chris Chapman thanks. You too
Great video series,I am really enjoying it.
I sure hope there not too boring lol. I am in no way the showman some are on here lol. Thanks for watching my friend.
I am liking just that. You're not using showmanship,you are telling me what I needed to know and in a clear and concise manner.
aries morris Cool, thanks bud. Just the facts, that's all.
That is a very beautiful color for that car. Seems like a good match, great job...thanks for the tips
Thanks bud! Polishing vid will be up today.
you done an outstanding job with that car!!
Thank you. One of my favorites.
Thank you for your tips I am.doung n scale trucks and equipment and trains so your tips are a blessing 🙏 thanks man !!!
Just wanted 2 say thank u for the video. I usually paint with rattle cans and have had a lot of bad luck when applying my clear. I bought a airbrush about a week ago 2 paint acrylics and again horrible clear coats no matter what I used rattle cans, createx and so on. Used this method and just put ONE HELL OF A SHINE on a 1:64 scale 56 Ford. Wow thanks again. I've never even used an airbrush before 🤯
So glad to hear this. If you get a chance go to Chapman model cars on Facebook and share some pics plead. I'd love to see your results.
Thank you for sharing this clinic.
Thank you very much Doc! I have one on applying acrylics and doing one now on polishing floor polish. As you have said many, many times, STAY TUNED. lol.
Looking forward to them and to staying tuned in. Cheers, DC
Awesome
Thank you
Good idea works great. One question is how do you clean up your air brush? Window cleaner?
Hopefully this will help. Thanks for watching. ruclips.net/video/iDQBW5MVShs/видео.html
Thank You Chris great informative videos
Great stuff.
Thank you very much.
Hi Chris, I have just got an airbrush and am keen to learn how to use it. Your tutorials are great, thank you. You mentioned at the very end of this video that you would go ahead and polish the car; what is involved with that ? Cheers, Pete
Hi Chris,
Once again, many thanks Sir for sharing this with us, I for one certainly appreciate it...
Looking forward to seeing many more of your videos...
All the best...
John...
P.S...Sorry, I keep meaning to ask about your spray booth, may I ask what kind it is please...
really diggin the car your working on :).
thanks for the tip about the Mop and shine I love the stuff $1 compared to around $7 for future.
Glad you like the car and glad I can help bud!
Thank you so much for all of the tips. You have changed modeling for me.
Nice video
Thanks Richie.
Great video, and I like to see the Q-tip trick of getting any debris off before it levels out and dries...if you do use a hairdryer, the clear will be dry in 10-15 minutes or about 15-20 minutes?
Hair dryer will dry floor polish in about five. I do however like to let it sit overnight and dry naturally. That way it gives it time to level . An hour air dry will be dry enough but I like an overnight time frame.
I am sure you cover it while drying overnight, I placed my last one under an inverted plastic tub. With the leveling, I guess as long as its not put on too heavy, it shouldn't pool enough in any corners to be noticeable, should it?
Great video. I tried using that floor polish on our kitchen floor and it wasn`t that shiny maybe a bad batch or something. I`ll definitely give it a try on a nova ihave to clear. Thanks for sharing
I just keep putting it on and building it up until I get a shine. I also rely on MaGuire's yellow wax to bring out the real shine. I have another video called polishing floor polish. Check it out if you want. Thanks for watching bud. I just sub'd to you as well.
what tips would you give on brush painting, Instead of airbrush,I noticed you putting quit a bit of paint and the windshield and floor polish, so I would need to put numerous coats of paint and windshield and floor polish with a brush to get the look you have, even with airplanes and tanks?
If using acrylic paint thin at a 50/50 ratio. Put on a coat then let it dry. Use 800 grit then 1000 grit sand paper and lightly sand until smooth. Keep doing this until it gets to what you want. Do the sad he with clear.
@@ChrisChapman195 Do the sad with clear.what do you mean? and do i use windshield washer to thin the paint with, I want you use oil or acrylic because they are not harmful,and paint here isn't 89 cents, it's $7.98 for a small bottle and the tubes are $15.00
@@timothybooker1402 That should have read "do the same" stupid cell phone. Oil or acrylic I use windshield washer fluid. You want it thick enough to stick to the car but thin enough that it won't have much brush streaks. Use a very soft brush. I personally would go to the dollar store if you have one and get some cheap make up applicator brushes in the make up isle. They work great and cheap. Use washer fluid in a separate container to wash your brush in as well. Put it something with a lid so you can use it over and over.
Thanks for the videos. Can decals be put on before the clear coat?
And what if u don’t have an airbrush? How would I put it on?
Great tutorial Chris. I wish I would have stocked up on the LA totally awesome mop and shine before they changed the formula. What clear are you using now?
How long do you wait from last coat of colour to first coast of clear coat of floor polish?
looks cool, thanks for the vids
No problem Wayne I hope they help.
Thanks for that video, trying to go back to modeling cars again (use to be a hobby when I was a teen), Your tips and tricks make it easier for me. One quick question, after clearing, if any issues happens with some dusts or just not being smooth enough. Can I wet sand using something like 2000 grit or it is better to use Novus polishing?
Thanks again,
If there is a blemish you can start with 1000 grit paper and dry sand just the area that needs it no need to do the whole car. Then use 12000 and 15000 then shoot a light coat of floor polish over the area until it matches the surrounded area's. Now polish it out. Also you can use any polish system like 3M, Tamiya and others. I myself like the Novus. Thanks for watching.
Chris Chapman Thanks for the tip, I already ordered on amazon the Novus system, waiting for it. I will try to give a go with the sandpaper I have, up to 2000 since I don't have any 12000 or 15000 with me. Thanks again for you great videos. I will keep following :)
Danik Parisien Thanks again bud and good luck.
Worked like a charm thanks to you
Danik Parisien So glad to hear that.
One question Chris, ¿the blow dryer make the difference? ¿or it can be done without it and get the same shine?. Regards!
Hair dryer only works on acrylic paints best and is not needed. When it comes to clear let it dry in a dust free place or dehydrater for even drying.
@@ChrisChapman195 Thanks!
wow dude i love your video's. man you know what is going on thanks.
Hey bud, glad to hear this. Thanks for watching.
Chris- I noticed when watching this video, you never pause after you apply a coat of paint ( I thought you were supposed to wait 10 minutes between coats, same with the clearcoat), do you have any tips on preventing wax that dries up and turns white?, or how to prevent it in the first place?
Hello Robert. With the acrylic paint it dries very fast. Putting on very light coats allows your paint to dry as you move around the body. Once you have the same look around the entire model stop and let it fully cure. when it comes to wax turning white are you talking about spraying wax for a clear or using a wax after a polish to protect the clear and shine?
Thanks for replying to my questions, as a newbie returning to the hobby, I like to look at different websites and glean as much information as I can- your way of doing things ( i.e. tips, techniques, cost savings... etc) is a great help! I'm using NOVUS for my final rub-out ( after 5 coats of Future
( whoops- I do that all the time). The problem comes with the NOVUS- it dries white and is hard as a rock in the panel lines. How do I prevent/ get rid of that
thank you !!
You got it good buddy!
Nice vid.. I'll try future one day..
It is great stuff my friend.
I have it just haven't used it yet
Thank you for making theses videos. Unfortunately I’m having trouble airbrushing on the Future clear. It seems no matter what I do, it won’t flow into a gloss coat, unless I flood it then it’s too much. I’m now suspected that my nozzle/jet is to big, judging by how much you are spraying. If I sprayed that long, it would be drenched. I’m using a paasch H with the medium jet. Do you know what size you are using? Thanks.
The trick is to hold airbrush back 8-10 inches away from the model and lightly build up the gloss. Just keep turning it as you spray until you have a shine all the way around. Too much and it will run.
@@ChrisChapman195 Thanks for responding. Just came in from 4 hours of battle with Pledge. I had waited 2 weeks for the previous to dry, wet sanded the entire car smooth, and tried to respray. Same result, more orange peel. Tried various air pressure, distance, switched to the smaller airbrush tip, even added some windex as others suggested. It has gloss, but will not level out smooth. I’ve painted real cars and never fought anything so hard. Your work is beautiful but I cannot make this stuff lay down.
@@hvspeed6102 The problem you may be having is your wet sanding .The Pledge is an acrylic like the paint. Once you add water it reactivates the acrylic making it mushy or wet again. Try spraying it as I mentioned before then dry sand lightly with 1000, 100 and then 1200 grit paper. Then use very little polish on small sections at a time so it does not get wet again. Then same process for a wax. Never use water on dry acrylic or it will bubble or turn to liquid again. I hope this helps.
@@ChrisChapman195 I didn’t know about the water softening the clear. The sanding didn’t seem to hurt anything, the clear just wouldn’t lay down again like the first go round. I’ll wait a week then try some polish, I have the Novus polish you were using. Thanks.
@@hvspeed6102 Good luck. Let me know how it goes.
Thanks for the reply ChrisGot another question, I am building a AMT Hard body Slotcar. Its a 1966 Chevy Nova . I want put a rear wing like a ProMod style . I have not got a reply from Comp Resins
Sorry bud, I have not got into teaching models yet and don't know of a place to get parts.
my mop and Shine has a milky look to it same bottle and everything But mine is from " family dollar" is it the same Stuff ? Love the videos By the way I use your painting Style on my tanks..
Yes mop & shine is milky from the bottle but dries 100% clear. ANd I get it from family dollar , dollar general and big lots sometimes carries it. You have the same stuff. Glad the vids are of help. Thanks for watching bud!
how do i sand rough spots out of future floor wax
Ok seeing is believing. So it does work. Im going to give it a try on my CCTB.
Did you ever go back and add more on the kit you sprayed?
Matthew Gedert Mathew, I use pearl ex in with my future or polyacrylic clear. In fact besides a black base my main color's on my Cheeseburger build are going to be pearl ex mixed with future. I will wait for you cctb build to see what you think.
ok Chris, I've got a problem...... not doing good with the clear. does the paint need to be glossy to put this on? or will it eventually gloss up the flat paints?
the only thing im getting out of this is a blue tint on my white paint. HELP please.
Thankyou very much for this video :)
Hey bud, you got it. Hope it helped.
Awesome vid Chris they are helping a lot .. ill try to make a video tonight of my progress with craft acrylic paint .. So you can critique or correct my work LOL thanks again Chris
Chris, so is that the onky clear you apply? That is serving as your clearcoat that is polished and waxed correct?
Yes, kind of. The Mop & Shine changed their formula and does not get the shine that it used to. I do use it for dullcoat and inner coat clears and sealing. I know have gone back to Pledge floor care. Not the wax but FLOOR CARE. That is all the same process and the only stuff I do.
+Chris Chapman I was just going to message you on the forum page and tell you that my Mop and Shine looked nothing like yours. Very cloudy out of the bottle. I will pick up my Pledge today. Thanks for all your tips.
Bought some Mop & Shine and it is a milky white color and in your video yours appears ti be clear is there something wrong with what I bought?
Hello Roy, There is nothing wrong with your bottle. Mine is milky as well but the bottle I have it in reflected light weird or something. That is why it looks clear. However I did have an issue with a brand new bottle not working a week or so ago. I called the company and they said I may have gotten a bad batch. It still works for sealing in acrylics. Using as a dead flat and great for mixing acrylic washes. I hope you have better luck then I did with my last bottle.
Thanks for the reply Chris,I'm trying to power watch all your videos,not even sure if power watch is a term oh well at my age who cares ha ha.I'm new to modeling I worked on full size cars all my life and now pretty much totally disabled so this is what keeps whats left of my mind sharp.Any way thanks for the videos I'm learning a lot and keep them coming...
What do you use to clean your airbrush with after spraying the pledge floor polish?
I use the windshield washer fluid. I spray 2 or three bowls then I wipe it out with windex window wipes. Then I pull it apart and wipe every thing down with the windex wipes. I get my Windex at the dollar store.
@@ChrisChapman195 Alberta Canada here. Thank you so much for the info. Have been using Rattle can clear coats and they work fine but i love the results you get with the pledge. Thanks again and I appreciate your videos and your time.
Hi Chris so that Pledge floor finish ?
That's is what I use.
What kind of airbrush are you shooting this with ?
it's an Iwata HP-C. Medium tip and needle at 15 psi. Only using 1/4 pull back on lever first half then 3/4 pull back on final wet coats.
Do you dilute the windshield wiper fluid at at all?
+MrHolesinmypants I do not. Straight from the bottle.
+Chris Chapman Alright! Thank you!
Looks grate! :-)
Thanks again Ray.
I have a question about the floor polish. Once in a while I do actual floor polishing here in my house, and I noticed that even tough the shine they leave is great, if you put your hand on the surface treated for too long, it will leave a mark, like if your own body oil or sweat would "eat" it out. Does it happen with the models??
I personally have not. However once I get a build done I put them away in a torage box. Only time I touch them is after I use a hand degreaser called goop. It removes all oil, dirt , grit and sweat so I don't take a chance of leaving a finger print.
what psi are you using? also, is that a paashe spray booth?
I spray at 10-15 psi and it is an old hammond paint booth. bought it two years ago. Big bulky and expensive compared to some of the new light weight portable units that do the same thing for a quarter of the price.
Chris Chapman
Chris, your video inspired to me to try something I was a little reluctant to do. I basically did more coats of future (future and simple green combo) and it's really working great. I was afraid to apply as much as you were. My goal was to get a really nice shine and It just wasn't happening with the amounts I was applying prior. However now I'm able to get that crazy shine I was looking for. thanks chris.
Matthew Cabret So glad it is working for you. I am doing a video right now on polishing floor polish.
Chris Chapman
Chris, you might want to try using simple green with it. It really works great, and it dries so much quicker. I can't see using future without it any longer. It creates a stronger hard, more protective coat while keeping the shine. I was doing 1 part simple, 3 parts future.. but I've discovered a little more simple helps. so I'm currently doing 90 drop future, 40 simple. looking forward to your next video.
chris can I use close dye r food coloring to tint clear car windose ???
William Freese I've heard you can but have never tried it. So not much help bud, sorry.
What size needle are you using?
Dale, it is the standard medium needle and tip that comes with the airbrush. I do plan to get a fine and large needle after I get back to work for flame and flake jobs.
do any of the new floor or multi surface polish work well ?
The l.a.'s totally awesome had changed and does not shine anymore. I went back to using page floor c care. Not the wax but the Polish. Works great.
Hi Chris got q a question , can you spray future the next day over Future Floor Wax sprayed the night before ? . Thanks Paul
will testors one coat clear have any kind of a reaction with the craft paints?
Hello Michael, soo sorry for delay on getting back to you. I was in the hospital all weekend and had very little playtime with my phone. I am going to answer both questions here to save time to have to go look up another post. First, Testors one coat clear works great with acrylic paints. Make sure all your acrylics are smooth and ready to go and spray away. Second, I use 800 grit then 1000,1200 sandpaper lightly sanding over the entire car as to where the finish after 1500 is the same every where. Then a polish and wax lightly rubbed in small areas at a time will bring back the shine.
i will try and post some pics of the new 1967 plymouth gtx i am working on i would really like your personal opinion as i am striving to be a competition model builder
hope all is well with you never like to hear of someone going into the hospital, i will definitely keep you in mind hope you get to feeling better
Thank you veery much.
Been battling Pneumonia for 9 months. Just found out lol. Hopefully soon I will be able to breath. Thanks for your thoughts and cares.
how well does this work with a flake paint job? I have a model I painted with the same type of acrylic paints, in a "glitter", granted I rattle canned the clear, but, I couldn't get the clear to come out smooth. I probably put 5 coats. couldn't tell if it was orange peel, or just not getting the clear thick enough to cover the texture of the flake. (the flake was thick!) any help is greatly appreciated.
Brandin, this acrylic mop $ shine is great if used properly. It will work for what you are doing as well It is self leveling so you don't have to worry. As long as you mist coat it on. Thin layers just how I did it at 10 PSI with little pressure. Mist it as you move the body around, back and forth and up and down. Light coats. as it builds up it will fill in any divots once past the divots it will continue to build up layer after layer and self level. The more you put on the shinier it will get. It will look cloudy at first then flat then the shine will start to come along. Continue until you achieve a consistent shine all over the body. Then polish (no sanding) and wax. Here is a link to a video I just did. The main paint was gloss black. I then used pearl ex powder for the roof and body in floor polish. I then cleared with just floor polish. So yes this will work for what you are doing. Enjoy!!
Chevy Cheeseburger update 5
Hey Chris I got that floor polish but it is cloudy and yours in the video looks clear did I get the wrong one?
+Bad Mikes Model Shop well it looks like you got a bad batch. Unfortunately, they had a bunch come out for about a year that is cloudy and will not leave a shine. Because of this I have gone back to using Pledge floor care for my glossy finishes. I have a video explaining this but not many remember it lol. This bottle you have however works great for dull or flat finishes and sealing in the acrylics. I bought bottles and all but one were cloudy. I use it for my military and flat finishes on my rust buckets and it works great for that.
Ok cool are there any other brands that you have found to work besides Pledge it is hard to find most often in my area lol
+Bad Mikes Model Shop sorry bud. I went back to something that is tried and true.
+Chris Chapman I guess I will have to stock up on it when I can get it then lol thanks.
+Bad Mikes Model Shop I believe the new cloudy stuff is the same as the old. Watch here: watch?v=k6dXkL6CwGY
Hi had buy case just to one bottle from Dollar-Tree .Opened the box nine bottles LA's that is milky . Its all going back . and willjustuse what I have. How can LA's send this stuff outline that . could ruin some bodies floor or model project .
hi chris have u been ill lately have not seen u for a while ??? william
I have been. Thank you for asking. Trying to get better so I can get back to building. Here is my last video that explains whats happening. ruclips.net/video/RZjC2I4nUX8/видео.html
Spit of goober WTF???