Man thanks for this video. I had a buddy who needed his clutch adjusted and I volunteered to do it. Well I'd never seen a clutch like this and thought I was over my head until I watched your video and seen just how easy it was. Now his truck is rolling and the clutch releases as it should instead of on the top!
Thank you for taking time to make the video and showing us how to do all this easy adjustments i do many things on my truck my self because every time i take my truck somwhere to fix something it takes couple days to fix it,many times they broke something or change and charge for thing that were ok,i change my own radiator took me 5hrs,fan clutch 4hrs,shocks,ac compresdor PM etc,it saved me $1000's for labor +$1000's for not loosing work from having truck in shop.
Thank You for finding my videos helpful, after being a mechanic and a truck driver for many years and don't see how I can retire now that I'm getting close to that age, these videos can help pay for a little retirement and help people too. Look for my videos on home repair, some landscaping, fishing, local wildlife here where I live near St. Louis, Mo. in Illinois, cooking and anything I can do well I'll record and upload.
Thank you sir for the videos. Very informative. What baffles me is how easy you make things look. Of course, I know it is due to your experience, so I won't get too over-confident.
Through your video I was able to adjust the clutch of the Mack truck that I work with, thank you very much for your collaboration. Gracias desde venezuela
@@GordonRobertsonDIY hey man, what would the symptoms be of a bad or need an adjusted clutch mine I will be driving Mack ll8Eaton Fuller and it will feel like it’s slipping like I’m pushing in clutch a little
Great video. I'm mostly impressed with your responses in the comments. I don't wanna come off as rude but I'd like to include some things. If the adjusting ring is seized it's ok to spray wd-40 on the adjusting ring. You can then work the ring back and forth till it breaks free instead of replacing the clutch. The wd-40 is recommended by eaton. Also the adjusting ring seizes in the clutch housing because of the lack of the need to adjust a clutch, either because the truck sits a lot like a landscapers dump or the driver is very good at not wearing a clutch. If either is the case it is recommended to move the adjusting ring 15 degrees or 4 notches and then move it back to where it was. Because the clutch hardly ever needs adjustment it helps prevent seizing. Seized rings can lead to broken adjuster gears or broken notches. Bottom line is if the ring doesn't move don't force it. Spray some penitent or give the housing a couple of taps.
great video i had forgotten on how to do it n now my friend ask me if i could adjust his clutch i told him i adjust it tomorrow lol gave me time to look up videos n really like yours thanks that should gett me some kind of lunch money lol
You're welcome, there is another type of clutch adjustment that is different but easier, no clamp to take off, just a bolt to turn, you need a short socket and 2" extension or a deep socket and you need to push the adjusting bolt in to turn it, you may need to use a pry bar behind the ratchet to push it in, you still need to hold the clutch pedal down. (Just in case you have the other kind) Thanks for watching
@@GordonRobertsonDIY I am Australian as well and I understood you perfectly, I am now 77 years old and been semi retired for 7. I have been working on trucks and earth movers for 55 years and I enjoy watching you guys on RUclips doing the things that I used to do. 5 stars to you.
I really enjoy these videos I worked in a repair shop for Saunders Leasing for 9 yrs many years ago although I can no longer physically do the work I still know how to do it and really like watching this stuff, I think it gets in your blood LOL
I am surprised by the simplicity you explain procedure in your videos. A big Fan of your work. I figured, the way of Illustration is old school(the best), when people liked to share knowledge. I watch all your videos and always keep looking for your new ones.
You always adjust so that you have 1/2" gap between the throw out bearing and clutch brake when the clutch break is pushed all the way over to the transmission face. Once you have this gap then you adjust your clutch linkages to get the right freeplay. Its amazing how many clutches are fkd up and never adjusted properly
Exactly right ,the first adjustment is on clutch brake 1/2 inch and than free play on clutch pedal . He missed step one ;did not check clutch brake gap .
Thanks man more information than I’ve seen all day, my clutch jumps under hard load and pedal doesn’t have any free play and people keep telling me it’s the linkages. I don’t think so
@@connershepherd998 yep adjust the gap first. Once set up you shouldn't have to change the linkages at all. The gap will get larger and you lose free pedal as the clutch wears. Adjust for the 1/2 gap and your free pedal should return to where it needs to be without adjustment of the linkages assuming it was set up right to start with!
First of all a very good video, I saw that you turned the engine backwards. I have been a heavy diesel mechanic for over 55 years and have learnt never to turn an engine BACKWARDS for some engines it causes problems with timing chain/belt tensioners and injector pumps.
Columbia and Century are nice trucks to drive, but since I do all of my own repairs, I don't like the way they hid half of the engine under the firewall where I can't get to it.
Price we pay for set back axles...blew a fuel line that runs behind te motor on the drivers side. No way to get at it, had to belly up and pay almost $500 just to have a fuel line installed. Friggin' A.
You should always adjust your clutch first and then adjust your clutch free play after. That type of clutch that was being adjusted is a Rockwel brand clutch and a eaton fuller road ranger behind it.
You are adjusting your clutch when you adjust free travel. Once you set the dimension A if you lack free travel then you adjust linkage. The only reason to adjust a clutch is that you have lost free travel, the clutch brake doesnt stop the trans or the clutch is trying to slip but that goes back to free travel and in both cases the dimension A is going to be to wide. Free travel is what the adjustment does.
Good explanation of clutch pedal free play. Easier way to check adjustment is to have a half inch space between release bearing and clutch brake. Eighth inch space between fork and release bearing. Usually with those 2 measurements in spec the pedal free play will be dead on. Pedal free play only applies to mechanical linkage trucks. Hydraulic clutches will have no free play but still need half inch between realease bearing and clutch brake. Make sure to lube the release bearing while your at it getting a light coating of grease on the clutch brake. Regardless of what your "mechanic" tells you clutch brakes are made of friction materials that benefit from lubrication. Eaton has videos on here showing how to properly grease and service heavy duty clutches.
Once you find the location of the lock tab, mark the front crankshaft pulley on the engine with a paint marker so you will know where the engine needs to be turned to adjust the clutch. As Jeremy Dunn said below, there should be 1/2" gap between the clutch brake and the transmission front housing with the clutch released. Normally this gap will be correct with the free travel at 2" unless someone messed around with the clutch linkage.
Greetings from Australia, having been a heavy diesel mechanic for 55 years I have had to fix and reset countless linkages because of a lot so-called mechanics do not know how to adjust these clutches properly and stuff around with the linkage
l don't know why more people don't make that mark on the crankshaft damper.........the perfect way to know you're in the right spot to adjust the clutch.......
To save time. If you look up into the inspection hole you will see the throw out bearing to the backside of the bearing is the clutch brake. The gap between the throw out bearing and the break is 3/8 inch with the pedal released that's when the clutch is adjusted properly
@@RazorKane22 better yet.....1/2 to 9/16, that's what eaton says.and 1/8 th inch between release fork and release bearing fpr free play.....then it's dead on..........
What year is your truck? I have a 2001 Freightliner Classic and am always looking for how to videos to save money. Good job with the video, lighting is very important :- )
My FLD 120 is a '97 but you have a Classic, you have a lot of room to work on your truck, you can get behind the motor from under the hood, I can a little but only with fingers and can't see a thing. I'm fairly new on youtube and only have videos of most of the repairs I did in the last 1-1/2 years but I have a good start and is growing quickly, have a look at my playlists. Thanks for watching.
It's just a common measurement to look for if it fits and leaves room for wear on top and not too close to the bottom of the pedal travel. Thanks for asking.
Very well explained video however my transmission does not seem to have no kind of adjusting nut. I have a10 speed Easton fuller transmission, 2006 century freightliner. Where else can the adjustment be???
I only know about the one I did here and the one I explained in the comment below to Ernesto, I think I heard of a self adjusting clutch but not sure. I'm not a full time truck mechanic, only an owner operator who used to be a full time car mechanic and I do all of my own work at home and for a few friends. Let me know if you find what you need and if I can help on anything else. Thanks for watching.
On Eaton Fuller transmision ,your clutch adjustment is in same location ,under the cover on bellhousing on but instead of using scredriver you need 9/16 inch socket and long handle ratchet .You need to push socket hard in in order to go clockway ,adjusting bolt is spring loaded . Gap at clutch brake should be 1/2 inch after that you check your pedal free play and adjust the clutch cable or linkage .
I don't know, this is how I was taught to do it, there is a special tool for turning the flywheel to get it in the right position, it's a small gear that goes in the bell housing from the front side and you turn it with a ratchet.
Gordon Robertson okay and also I have a shifter in my kenworth w900 that is very sloppy. I know its the isolator bushing or as others call it shifter bushing. Do you know by any chance how you change that? maybe make a video on where its located but not working on it. thanks
I have done something like that on a car years ago and vaguely remember doing it through the shifter hole, wasn't complicated but was a car, I think a Nissan late '80s or early '90s I never did that on a truck, but the shifter comes off easily only a couple little tricks to get the air lines off the range selector, better research a bit before trying it.
that is a Rockwell angle spring clutch. years ago they went to auto adjust, we replaced a lot of them with the manual adjust as the auto adjust ring would freeze and as soon as the free play was gone they would slip and burn up. new trucks today have auto shift gear box transmission with a computer controlled clutch air cylinder. lighter straight trucks had the lipe rollaway clutch. it had 2 large nuts on the input shaft you unlock one and spin the other to adjust the free play then lock the first one against it to hold the adjustment.
Hey Gordon I took my truck to get a Clutch Adjustment at a Mack Dealer and lord and behold it came back worse about 5 inches of play in clutch peddle , My problem I took cover off and the bolt out I can get it to turn clockwise but not counter clockwise its on a 1990 Mack 6 speed CH 613 any advise would help thank you.
I haven't run into that before, you might try spraying WD40 in there all around that adjusting ring, another thing, there is a plug on the bell housing you can take out and look at the edge of your clutch plates and see if it's time to change the clutch. Did you see the last clutch adj. vid I did? I had trouble with that one and had to use a hammer. ruclips.net/video/cY0RF_N7IAQ/видео.html
You don't need anybody you can use a screwdriver flat-head put it inside the hole right up under the clutch and that gives you access to the flywheel then turning yourself by sticking the screwdriver in there and catching the teeth on the flywheel
I've only had to adjust my clutch once in 700 thousand miles that was when instead of parking it to go hunting I let someone else drive my truck never again he also chipped a tooth in the tranny
Shit man... I was laying under the truck trying to adjust this damn smoked clutch... I was barring the engine over and the fucker started and ran through the wall of the garage over the bank into the garden...shit..fuck...shit!
very hard to adjust poor design all american and european car and truck unlike japanese car and trucks very accessible and good design on all aspecs of engines and power trains what a junk equipment.
Jap trucks have no torque and gutless up hills. Usually pretty reliable but don't last like a American truck does. So not junk at all, Just depends on preference ;)
I prefer made in Japan by far over made in China. It is hard to find quality products here in the U.S. that are made in China. But since U.S. is my home, I do try to find made in U.S.A. as much as I can.
Man thanks for this video. I had a buddy who needed his clutch adjusted and I volunteered to do it. Well I'd never seen a clutch like this and thought I was over my head until I watched your video and seen just how easy it was. Now his truck is rolling and the clutch releases as it should instead of on the top!
I'm glad to hear that it helped. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for taking time to make the video and showing us how to do all this easy adjustments i do many things on my truck my self because every time i take my truck somwhere to fix something it takes couple days to fix it,many times they broke something or change and charge for thing that were ok,i change my own radiator took me 5hrs,fan clutch 4hrs,shocks,ac compresdor PM etc,it saved me $1000's for labor +$1000's for not loosing work from having truck in shop.
Thank You for finding my videos helpful, after being a mechanic and a truck driver for many years and don't see how I can retire now that I'm getting close to that age, these videos can help pay for a little retirement and help people too. Look for my videos on home repair, some landscaping, fishing, local wildlife here where I live near St. Louis, Mo. in Illinois, cooking and anything I can do well I'll record and upload.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY get paid for fishing? That's just wrong lol
Thank you sir for the videos. Very informative. What baffles me is how easy you make things look. Of course, I know it is due to your experience, so I won't get too over-confident.
These videos are the best I've seen by far.
awesome instructions you showed clutch adjustment way batter then other people on RUclips and some of them are mechanic thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching and for your comment.
Through your video I was able to adjust the clutch of the Mack truck that I work with, thank you very much for your collaboration. Gracias desde venezuela
Thank you for the comment. Gracias de los Estados Unidos.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY hey man, what would the symptoms be of a bad or need an adjusted clutch mine I will be driving Mack ll8Eaton Fuller and it will feel like it’s slipping like I’m pushing in clutch a little
Great video. I'm mostly impressed with your responses in the comments. I don't wanna come off as rude but I'd like to include some things.
If the adjusting ring is seized it's ok to spray wd-40 on the adjusting ring. You can then work the ring back and forth till it breaks free instead of replacing the clutch. The wd-40 is recommended by eaton.
Also the adjusting ring seizes in the clutch housing because of the lack of the need to adjust a clutch, either because the truck sits a lot like a landscapers dump or the driver is very good at not wearing a clutch. If either is the case it is recommended to move the adjusting ring 15 degrees or 4 notches and then move it back to where it was. Because the clutch hardly ever needs adjustment it helps prevent seizing.
Seized rings can lead to broken adjuster gears or broken notches. Bottom line is if the ring doesn't move don't force it. Spray some penitent or give the housing a couple of taps.
great video i had forgotten on how to do it n now my friend ask me if i could adjust his clutch i told him i adjust it tomorrow lol gave me time to look up videos n really like yours thanks that should gett me some kind of lunch money lol
You're welcome, there is another type of clutch adjustment that is different but easier, no clamp to take off, just a bolt to turn, you need a short socket and 2" extension or a deep socket and you need to push the adjusting bolt in to turn it, you may need to use a pry bar behind the ratchet to push it in, you still need to hold the clutch pedal down. (Just in case you have the other kind) Thanks for watching
That's the best video and instructions I've ever seen.
Thank you sir.
Your a good teacher
Love this stuff
Thank you
Thank you.
thanks !..... a practical and usefull real time clip...well spoken with a clear voice...Ryan in South Australia
Thank you for the compliment, good to hear that I am easy to understand in an area that uses a different English accent than I do.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY I am Australian as well and I understood you perfectly, I am now 77 years old and been semi retired for 7. I have been working on trucks and earth movers for 55 years and I enjoy watching you guys on RUclips doing the things that I used to do. 5 stars to you.
@@bobw7066 Thanks Bob; Keep in touch.
I really enjoy these videos I worked in a repair shop for Saunders Leasing for 9 yrs many years ago although I can no longer physically do the work I still know how to do it and really like watching this stuff, I think it gets in your blood LOL
Very good video! Loved the illustrations also.
I am surprised by the simplicity you explain procedure in your videos. A big Fan of your work. I figured, the way of Illustration is old school(the best), when people liked to share knowledge. I watch all your videos and always keep looking for your new ones.
Thank you very much!
Muchas gracias Sr Robertson, me fue muy útil su vídeo, realize el trabajo en un Mack año '88, fue positivo!! Gracias, saludos desde Mérida Venezuela!!
Bueno que te ayudo. Gracias por mirando Oliverio.
Good job sir thanks for the video I have a FLD as well and adjusted my clutch with your video thanks again
Thank You Sir, glad to hear it helped.
Just found your channel great videos you're a good teacher.
Great job on the video👍🏻
Thanks Adam.
You always adjust so that you have 1/2" gap between the throw out bearing and clutch brake when the clutch break is pushed all the way over to the transmission face. Once you have this gap then you adjust your clutch linkages to get the right freeplay. Its amazing how many clutches are fkd up and never adjusted properly
Exactly right ,the first adjustment is on clutch brake 1/2 inch and than free play on clutch pedal .
He missed step one ;did not check clutch brake gap .
Thanks man more information than I’ve seen all day, my clutch jumps under hard load and pedal doesn’t have any free play and people keep telling me it’s the linkages. I don’t think so
@@connershepherd998 yep adjust the gap first. Once set up you shouldn't have to change the linkages at all. The gap will get larger and you lose free pedal as the clutch wears. Adjust for the 1/2 gap and your free pedal should return to where it needs to be without adjustment of the linkages assuming it was set up right to start with!
Budd, my Volvo doesn't have linkage, it's hydraulic, no adjustment of linkage, I can adjust only what you saw on video
i don't even own a semi, but i love watching your videos on fixing them
You do own something I do videos on! Thanks for watching.
First of all a very good video, I saw that you turned the engine backwards. I have been a heavy diesel mechanic for over 55 years and have learnt never to turn an engine BACKWARDS for some engines it causes problems with timing chain/belt tensioners and injector pumps.
Bob W , and as a mechanic you never give bad advice, because you make more money when people don't use you... oh wait
Freightliner? Def a 10 speed, had our mechanic teach me basically the same method you used! Works perfect.
Yes that truck is a '97 FLD like mine but it's a 13 speed, same main gearbox but different auxiliary box on the back. Mine is a straight 10.
Nice. I run an 03 Columbia, straight 10, 475CAT. Dare I say I enjoy driving it more than the nice KW we have...
Columbia and Century are nice trucks to drive, but since I do all of my own repairs, I don't like the way they hid half of the engine under the firewall where I can't get to it.
Price we pay for set back axles...blew a fuel line that runs behind te motor on the drivers side. No way to get at it, had to belly up and pay almost $500 just to have a fuel line installed. Friggin' A.
You can get access through the shifter hole, there is a little more room on top of the trans on those trucks than on mine.
Nice Job on the Video Gordon , VERY INFORMATIVE , Keep up the Good Work !!!
Thank You Sir.
maybe post what make and model and equipment your truck has so others can compare there running gear.. thanks for the video info is always good .
Perfect thank you 🙏🏼 Mr Gordon
Glad it helped.
Awesome, thank you sir!
Thanks for showing on how to adjust the clutch.
Is it necessary to press the clutch pedal before adjusting or directly adjust it?
Yes you do. Thanks for watching
You should always adjust your clutch first and then adjust your clutch free play after. That type of clutch that was being adjusted is a Rockwel brand clutch and a eaton fuller road ranger behind it.
You are adjusting your clutch when you adjust free travel. Once you set the dimension A if you lack free travel then you adjust linkage.
The only reason to adjust a clutch is that you have lost free travel, the clutch brake doesnt stop the trans or the clutch is trying to slip but that goes back to free travel and in both cases the dimension A is going to be to wide. Free travel is what the adjustment does.
thank you all the way from Africa
Thank you for watching.
Thanks for sharing your know how Gordon
Thanks for watching.
Great tip thank you .
Thanks for watching Darrin
Hi there very informative! Does this applies for a 6 speed sterling acterra? Thanks in advance 👊
I do it the same way as you works fine .good video
Thanks Sam.
Another informative video. Thank you!
Thank you Sir.
Good explanation of clutch pedal free play. Easier way to check adjustment is to have a half inch space between release bearing and clutch brake. Eighth inch space between fork and release bearing. Usually with those 2 measurements in spec the pedal free play will be dead on. Pedal free play only applies to mechanical linkage trucks. Hydraulic clutches will have no free play but still need half inch between realease bearing and clutch brake. Make sure to lube the release bearing while your at it getting a light coating of grease on the clutch brake. Regardless of what your "mechanic" tells you clutch brakes are made of friction materials that benefit from lubrication. Eaton has videos on here showing how to properly grease and service heavy duty clutches.
Thanks for watching.
Thankyou Gordon
Once you find the location of the lock tab, mark the front crankshaft pulley on the engine with a paint marker so you will know where the engine needs to be turned to adjust the clutch. As Jeremy Dunn said below, there should be 1/2" gap between the clutch brake and the transmission front housing with the clutch released. Normally this gap will be correct with the free travel at 2" unless someone messed around with the clutch linkage.
100 % right mate !
Greetings from Australia, having been a heavy diesel mechanic for 55 years I have had to fix and reset countless linkages because of a lot so-called mechanics do not know how to adjust these clutches properly and stuff around with the linkage
l don't know why more people don't make that mark on the crankshaft damper.........the perfect way to know you're in the right spot to adjust the clutch.......
Would this be the same adjustment as a 2002 GMC C7500?
To save time. If you look up into the inspection hole you will see the throw out bearing to the backside of the bearing is the clutch brake. The gap between the throw out bearing and the break is 3/8 inch with the pedal released that's when the clutch is adjusted properly
1/2"
@@RazorKane22 better yet.....1/2 to 9/16, that's what eaton says.and 1/8 th inch between release fork and release bearing fpr free play.....then it's dead on..........
If a big rig has a hydraulic clutch does it still need this mechanical adjustment?
I hook a remote starter switch to the starter then ya can lay under the truck and bump it yourself
Great video.
Thanks for watching.
dang, saved me! thanks for the video
Glad to hear it helped. Thanks for watching Josh.
What year is your truck? I have a 2001 Freightliner Classic and am always looking for how to videos to save money. Good job with the video, lighting is very important :- )
My FLD 120 is a '97 but you have a Classic, you have a lot of room to work on your truck, you can get behind the motor from under the hood, I can a little but only with fingers and can't see a thing. I'm fairly new on youtube and only have videos of most of the repairs I did in the last 1-1/2 years but I have a good start and is growing quickly, have a look at my playlists. Thanks for watching.
The Flatbed Chick .. hi Georgia peach
Gordon Robertson awesome info
Great video
Thanks for watching Eric.
awesome video, can I ask why 2 inches is what you went with?
It's just a common measurement to look for if it fits and leaves room for wear on top and not too close to the bottom of the pedal travel. Thanks for asking.
Believe me, you earn EVERY fucking penny as a mechanic, especially on this newer computerized shit. I do this for a living too.
You got that right. I did 35 years and said fuckit.
Love this, thank you !!
Thanks for watching.
You The Man Gordon Love your videos Dont Let the Haters Bother you F&^) Them and feed them Fish Heads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Your 5 Star Brother!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for subbing. A lot of foreigners think the head is the best part of the fish! Thanks for the compliments.
Good information there, thanks for sharing!
+ShysterLawyer Thanks for watching.
very nicely done!
Thank you.
Thanks. For the. Video..boss....
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Just tried to get this done at the the TA they to me they didn’t have the special tool lol
To bump the motor over use remote starter button and if you do your own adjusting BUY the tool !!! Right tool for the job always
Very well explained video however my transmission does not seem to have no kind of adjusting nut. I have a10 speed Easton fuller transmission, 2006 century freightliner. Where else can the adjustment be???
I only know about the one I did here and the one I explained in the comment below to Ernesto, I think I heard of a self adjusting clutch but not sure. I'm not a full time truck mechanic, only an owner operator who used to be a full time car mechanic and I do all of my own work at home and for a few friends. Let me know if you find what you need and if I can help on anything else. Thanks for watching.
On Eaton Fuller transmision ,your clutch adjustment is in same location ,under the cover on bellhousing on but instead of using scredriver you need 9/16 inch socket and long handle ratchet .You need to push socket hard in in order to go clockway ,adjusting bolt is spring loaded .
Gap at clutch brake should be 1/2 inch after that you check your pedal free play and adjust the clutch cable or linkage .
I always use a 3/8 drive socket extension the flat side of the extension should just fit
Double nut a bolt and screw in place of keeper and use that as leverage...Very easy!
That a Boy Gordon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thank you sir
Thanks for watching.
i know in the video that you said you can adjust the clutch with a 3/8 extension bar and flat head, but what is the exact tool for that to buy?
I don't know, this is how I was taught to do it, there is a special tool for turning the flywheel to get it in the right position, it's a small gear that goes in the bell housing from the front side and you turn it with a ratchet.
Gordon Robertson okay and also I have a shifter in my kenworth w900 that is very sloppy. I know its the isolator bushing or as others call it shifter bushing. Do you know by any chance how you change that? maybe make a video on where its located but not working on it. thanks
I have done something like that on a car years ago and vaguely remember doing it through the shifter hole, wasn't complicated but was a car, I think a Nissan late '80s or early '90s I never did that on a truck, but the shifter comes off easily only a couple little tricks to get the air lines off the range selector, better research a bit before trying it.
Gordon Robertson okay thanks
thank you sir!!!
Thanks for watching, I hope it helped.
What kind of clutch is that i've adjusted lots of clutches and never saw that kind?
that is a Rockwell angle spring clutch. years ago they went to auto adjust, we replaced a lot of them with the manual adjust as the auto adjust ring would freeze and as soon as the free play was gone they would slip and burn up. new trucks today have auto shift gear box transmission with a computer controlled clutch air cylinder. lighter straight trucks had the lipe rollaway clutch. it had 2 large nuts on the input shaft you unlock one and spin the other to adjust the free play then lock the first one against it to hold the adjustment.
Thank you save me alot of time and money
Hey Gordon I took my truck to get a Clutch Adjustment at a Mack Dealer and lord and behold it came back worse about 5 inches of play in clutch peddle , My problem I took cover off and the bolt out I can get it to turn clockwise but not counter clockwise its on a 1990 Mack 6 speed CH 613 any advise would help thank you.
I haven't run into that before, you might try spraying WD40 in there all around that adjusting ring, another thing, there is a plug on the bell housing you can take out and look at the edge of your clutch plates and see if it's time to change the clutch. Did you see the last clutch adj. vid I did? I had trouble with that one and had to use a hammer. ruclips.net/video/cY0RF_N7IAQ/видео.html
Ok Thank you I will look and see Thanks you
Same erf ec11.. Clutch adjustment.. 🤔
Gracias tipo de ajuste al cluthe y el juego del pedal que tiene que tener.
You know in school my teacher always said NEVER ADJUST THE CLUTCH OFF PEDAL PLAY. Good to know we just found one of them.
I took and shorten a load lock too use too hold the pedal I'm a full time mecanic
I have never been able to turn a big truck engine with the fan, however i did give up in 1983 after trying only 5 or 6.....
You don't need anybody you can use a screwdriver flat-head put it inside the hole right up under the clutch and that gives you access to the flywheel then turning yourself by sticking the screwdriver in there and catching the teeth on the flywheel
that work for me.
Thanks.
This guy sounds like Johnny Cash
You wouldn't say that if you heard me trying to sing. Thanks for watching.
Gordon Robertson lol
Things Gordon.😹😹😹
Thanks for watching.
Dot will have a field day with that truck. Money, money, money, moneeyyy!
Someone adjusted my cable to get the free play,, now I got to adjust it also I guess
Regulación de embrague
I've only had to adjust my clutch once in 700 thousand miles that was when instead of parking it to go hunting I let someone else drive my truck never again he also chipped a tooth in the tranny
Shit man... I was laying under the truck trying to adjust this damn smoked clutch... I was barring the engine over and the fucker started and ran through the wall of the garage over the bank into the garden...shit..fuck...shit!
That wasn't the type of clutch that my old 69 Fairlane with a 351 had in it. Easy to adjust that one.
power washing goes a long way on jobs like these.
I wish he could be my sponsor for class a.
Sling Blade
very hard to adjust poor design all american and european car and truck unlike japanese car and trucks very accessible and good design on all aspecs of engines and power trains what a junk equipment.
Apo Lakay. Japanese make a semi? Lol. This clutch adjustment is simple. What video did you watch?
Jap trucks have no torque and gutless up hills. Usually pretty reliable but don't last like a American truck does. So not junk at all, Just depends on preference ;)
Its amazing how simple a lot of these things are to do, but a mechanic wants to charge $100/hour. It's a fucking shame
we gotta eat too.
Joe Ballew amen
It's always simple until something goes wrong.
something always goes wrong lol
面倒臭いっすね。
日本製が一番‼️
Can you send your comment or question in English or Spanish, it came over in your home language. Thank you.
Gordon Robertson
sorry
It is made in Japan is the No. 1 good.
I prefer made in Japan by far over made in China. It is hard to find quality products here in the U.S. that are made in China. But since U.S. is my home, I do try to find made in U.S.A. as much as I can.
this truck is too old
The older the better for my videos, if it were new, I would be taking it to the dealer and not be getting paid for videos. Thanks for your comment.
The old trucks are better than the new ones!
Wear gloves !
Good information there, thanks for sharing!