Excellent breakdown! ThxU! Quick question. Can you use the power output gauge to insure that you’re not stressing the inner & outer drive train. I’ve got a 620 Ultra and virtually never drive the wattage into the 750-1000 range! Usually, a simple downshift or harder pedal will drop the wattage on a hill or starting out! Should this be the goal or am I missing something? PS: Would an RPM gauge be helpful?
It’s preferable to have more speed (rotation) than torque when the motor is performing, that means is better to be on lower gears (1-2-3) let the motor Rev higher then you shift the gear up. Keeping it below 1000w is good for the motor but doing it in the wrong gear will still cause damages. Please watch the following video, it should answer all your questions ruclips.net/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/видео.html
Basically the best way to looking at properly using your gear Cadence is to compare your cycling to that of an 18 wheeler semi truck. Semi trucks use a gearing to be able to move forward. If they did not use all their gearing they would blow the engine. This holds true with an e-bike.
I hate it when I'm interested in an ebike, and 2mins in, the reviewer shows total incompetency, and a lack of understanding of tools in general. There's one guy who always assembles on grass....right next to pavement! Companies are sending test bikes to those who just complain about "their way, versus the manufactured build" Everybody wants speed, that's not why you're on a bike, you own a car, that goes fast. I want consistent charges, and reliability. Fast usually mean faster wear out. There's a fine line, and some are just going too far.
I'll join the chorus of bewildered people. Those are high quality videos, of a professional showing us around his workshop & going way deep into the gear that we are oh-so-very interested in. I do not get it how is it only like 1.5k subs.
Very informative. You show problems with the Bafang design and the preventive measures to keep you motor up and running, that no other channel addresses. ..Great video ..
Awesome video!! Thank you so much for sharing these issues and tips to avoid them (shift!!!). I really appreciate your incredible experience gained from supporting and maintaining these systems. Your word is gold.
Thank you for your words, I wish the world was full of people like you, your positive energy and consideration can move mountain. Continue like that and we will have a brighter future! All the best
Wow. What a breakdown of this unit and how it works. Excellent! I just bought a used Brilliant brand Nexus-geared bike with 750 Bafang, and I noticed on the second day of riding [two days ago] that the motor is "popping" each time the motor engages using either PAS or throttle (pop can be felt when touching the motor housing). Pop in the motor is the same whether engaging with throttle or peddle sensor.
Thank you for sharing your excellent knowledge of this unit! I certainly will shift more than I already am and try to protect the unit from water. Unfortunately, I could not use the so call 'Lekkie Bling Ring' which would have given me a far better gear ratio and taken strain of the motor on steep hills.
Thank you so much. Your video is full of actual knowledge. I've been search for a video with some explanation to it and yours had it Sir. Thorough and Complete. You have no idea how much better you've made my day yo! I'll be back every drop brother!
Thnx for your videos. I have been running a BBSHD for over 5 years, opened it to look at overall condition & to lube it last year when transferring it to another bike. Being able to program cadence and power levels (as well as setting it for max power) has made it very easy & comfortable to use, especially on technical mountain biking trails. You are so correct about shifting, having been a year-round commuter and mountain biker on "acoustic" bikes, it is second nature to me on electric bikes.
@@Cyberbikesau so far, I have only seen this one video of yours, the algorithm just suggested it. At some point, covering programming for the BBS01/02 & BBSHD also external controllers for the hub drive folks, either separately or as a comparison. I do not know how many folks have actually done it.
@@davebrown9725 Nice one, we have a quick programming video ruclips.net/video/bX-gFdU6aBM/видео.html&lc=UgwPeB7ZCUdPoSWUHep4AaABAg.9knzFOb63-o9lSFfOkBp2V and the controller for hub guys that's nice though. Thanks for the insights
I have also changed of the (many) setup parameters by using a USB cable & software. It runs indeed smoother and better adjusted to my riding style. This should also protect the unit and reduce wear of the drive train.
Thanks for this great advice! Some people recommend lubricating the BBSxx motors even when they are brand new. What do you think about that? I just bought one and will put it into the bike soon...
My opinion is: why will you change the oil of a car you've just bought brand new from the auto dealer? We have done Bafang conversions for over 6 years always installing the motors new out of the box and we have had no breakdowns due to "poor lubrication". I just think it's an unnecessary step
Your channel is one of the most useful and informative for someone who possess an electric bike, like me. Congratulations for the great quality videos 😉🙌
Excellent breakdown,im new to e bike's,seems alot problem so I'll wait couple years till product ironed out issues, many many thanks for information, excellent..
Get one of our Cyberbikes if you're in Australia it's a flawless product and will last many years. That video is peculiar to a type of motor and the break downs happen because people dont know how to use the drive train of the bicycle and overload the motor
Thank you so much, I have a bbshd that when I pedal and I'm pushing hard with no motor help, or straight motor it releases almost like I'm switching gears but I'm not. I replaced inner and outer gears on right side thinking that maybe they were letting go under force, but it didn't change anything. I will continue to look deeper. If you did a paid channel that would give parts numbers and help source things like bearings and go deeper in to troubleshooting ebikes, sourcing parts for all pev. I would pay. I spend hours doing research to find better ways to do repairs and I would be willing to stock it all in the US because it is a nightmare here. Thank you for the video, amazing
Hi Thank you for your insights, we will try to work around stocking Bafang parts. From what I understood from your description, you most likely have a frozen chain link or a worn cassette sprocket or a worn out chainring (less usual but happens)
super helpful, thanks. I've either stripped my nylon gear or granny gear. It won't catch in 2-3 speed now and sounds like gling-dingadingading when its not catching
hi Felipe, thansk for the amazing video, so easy to understand and enjoyable. i have a question, currently my bafang motor does not run and i suspect it is the nylon gear. if i pull back the bike i can hear loud clicking sound from the pedal. just like your feedback if my diagnose is correct
Hi Lawrence, thanks for your words. About your issue, you have to be more specific, when you say it doesn't run do you mean there's electrical power, you throttle the motor and you hear a clunky clicking sound coming from the motor?
I have a BBSO2 750w 48v-30 amp dual battery pushing a Trek 4500 26" OEM 44T 8 sp 16/46 freewheel with less than 400 miles. We have a lot of hills and the motor got very hot for a second or two the cranks were spinning with no traction. I hope I didn't damage the motor but once it cooled down I had traction. I ordered a 38T,36T, and Lekkie 28T chainring. The 38T was a big improvement but scared to test on that hill. So I just installed Lekkie 28T using the same 8 sp with the 16/46 freewheel. Any input would be gladly appreciate ?
Use the gear ratio in your favour, unless you're carrying hundreds of kilos of load and riding offroad, engaging the 46T with a 44T chainring would be enough on a 26" wheel ebike. The motor is only cooking because you're using the wrong gear ratio. If your pedals are hard to pedal, the motor is struggling. If it's easy, the motor is alright. Always keep the motor in high revs, like cutting out on revs, that's how you should ride your ebike.
Use the gear ratio in your favour, unless you're carrying hundreds of kilos of load and riding offroad, engaging the 46T with a 44T chainring would be enough on a 26" wheel ebike. The motor is only cooking because you're using the wrong gear ratio. If your pedals are hard to pedal, the motor is struggling. If it's easy, the motor is alright. Always keep the motor in high revs, like cutting out on revs, that's how you should ride your ebike.
@@Cyberbikesau Thank you for your quick reply! Today I did a test run using the 28 T Lekkie with the 8 sp 16/46 freewheel. This was much better gear ratio for our hills definitely a workout no more ghost pedaling motor warm not hot. I'm crusing up the hills 20 mph in 4 and 5 gear. The two batteries do add weight but, no more range anxiety.
Hi. great to see info on Bafang motors out there - here's my problem and your diagnosis would be gratefully received. The battery is old but still functioning, with range greatly down but with frequent charging it's fine... frequently now however the motor does not engage (the assist is zero bars) and sometimes this is accompanied by the screen going dead. Sometimes I can have it on, get no assistance for 10 minutes or so and then suddenly the motor kicks it and we're back to normal. An intermittent problem! What to do? Many thanks J
Hi J, it's important to don't make confusion with the symptoms. 1. Battery losing capacity, that will eventually cause the bike to shut off under load. The display will turn off and the bike will die. Re-balancing the battery cells my solve this issue in the short term. Replacing the battery will solve this issue in the long term. 2. The bike being ON and no assist whatsoever, means that you have a trigger on the brake sensors. Maybe your brake lever is damaged, or your brake pads are worn out. Unplug the brake sensors and see if the bike stopped cutting off. If it stopped to cut off, you have to access why the brake sensors are being triggered and fix it! If you appreciate our time and dedication to solving your problem please generously give us a good review g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review Best regards!
Seems like most of these issues are caused by improper use. These motors need to be used like combustion engines from what I can tell except when you lug a Bafang, it will rip itself apart rather than stall. If that is not something you want to do/learn, I guess a hub motor would be a better choice. Thanks for the great video.
Which Bafang motor and front chain ring (42T, 44T, 52T etc) would you recommend for a 2013 Diamondback Response XE29? I already have a two 20ah 48v batteries from my other hub motor bike. I am looking to make a 43 mile, somewhat hilly commute about 3 times a week. My state considers anything above 750w unlawful, so there's that. Thanks in advance.
great video I just have a question - the engine suddenly stopped working, it doesn't turn at all. and there are no errors on the screen, everything turns on, even the speed is shown but the engine doesn't start, do you have any suggestions? Thanks u
brake cut-offs or the phase wires are melted or water damage inside the controller, search our videos you gonna find the answers following those topics
Excellent video, thank you. Can you please give details of the socket type and size used for the torque wrench. I need to buy one of these. Many thanks.
Great video! I have a question. Why is it bad to have the motor in a higher cadence? I prefer to ride staying in lower gears most of the time. Just wondering why this would clause damage?
Hi Joseph, in the entire video I’m asking you to keep the motor at high revs and consequently your legs at high cadence, that’s the ideal riding condition. However, keeping your legs floating in the air (ultra high cadence legs can’t keep up) specially when the motor needs help to climb a hill will overload the pinion and granny gear coupling
@@josephi6916 Here is a suggestion - Use your gears as you would without a Power Assist. Set your power level at a comfortable level to match the speed you wish to ride. For example for normal on road or trail riding without other traffic to interfere, set your power level on 2. If you are riding around people or traffic etc. you may wish to ride a lot slower so set your power level to 1. When you come up to a steep hill you can hear when the motor starts to bog down so increase your power level as well as changing down to a lower gear for the climb. Once you reach the top of your hill, put your power level back to where you need it (1 or 2) & change your gears to where you need them for a comfortable cadence. It's the bogging down of your motor that does the damage so keep the motor in it's happy rev range by choosing your gears to maintain your comfortable cadence.
@@daytriker Thanks for the reply. I mostly ride that way. I think the problem I'm having is since the motor does so much of the work it's hard to tell what gear I actually need to be in most of the time. I normally push off with my legs when I start riding to make it easier on the motor. I just wonder how bad it would be to mostly just leave the bike in the middle gears and not fuss with it too much unless there's a clear sign the motor is bogging. This video also thought me that too high of a cadence can be bad as well but my bike reaches hi cadence very quickly.
@@josephi6916 I believe there is a misunderstanding of 'too high a cadence.' To use a standard transmission as an analogy, if you are not in the correct gear to allow your engine to run efficiently you can hear it bog down. Also if you leave your transmission in too low a gear, you will be revving the motor more than is necessary wasting power or fuel. I would suggest leaving your power level low & increasing it as required since this will most certainly force you to use your gearing first.
Thank you for producing a very good video about common problems with Bafangs. I have been installing Bafang & Tongsheng Mid Drives for about 5 years now & any problems that were brought to my attention were nearly always customers not using their gears & relying on the motor like an automatic transmission. For this reason most of the kits I sell are without the throttle. This is one way of reducing the stripped out gear problem. Do you think it is possible to combine the torque sensor from the Tongsheng with the Cadence Sensor of the BBS02? If this is possible, it would open up a whole new market for a much improved Mid Drive.
@@daytriker no. It's not, i develop ebikes for a manufacturer for a living. I know what im talking about, dont worry. Its a retro fit motor to any standard bike with a bottom bracket. You wont of heard of it because im the only person with it...
Thank you for your video. Excellent explanation! I'm up to buy a Bafang 750W motor. I've seen that many people complain about the excesive resistance on the motor when pedaling alone. And that it hapends after some time, at first it was ok. Is maybe the problem of overtightening the bottom bracket nut that you mentioned in the video? That distorts the haul pipe and so afects the bearings. Thanks
Yes exactly. That issue could be due to overtightening the bottom bracket nut. Glad you enjoyed the video! Cheers, please help our channel grow and give us a good review on Google g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
Great informative video thanks. Question my bafang mid drive 750w runs good then after 30 seconds it turns off. Continues to do this. Any suggestions where I can troubleshoot? Thanks
nice useful details...my bbsd 350w dosent start on pressing power button on some research after checking all contacts points etc finally noted that contrller is not giving out 5v to red wire..what can id
Hello thank you for this video. I’m looking at bafang and CYC or hub drive motor. I like mid most. The kit I’m looking for to fit Scott aspect 950 but unsure what front gear I need.
Hello Felipe! I would like to congratulate you for your videos! They are great! I'm following all your tips here on your channel and I'm applying them to my BBS01. I would like to ask for your kindness and suggest that, if possible, you produce some videos addressing the problems with electrical and electronic components. How to detect these problems and how to fix them. I'm here in Brazil and technical assistance is very far away. It is located in São Paulo. The company is really good, but the logistics for me are very complicated due to the distance and cost. With these classes that you give us on your channel, it opens up a great possibility of solving it right here in my city. I had a problem with the main cable giving err 30. I managed to detect the problem, I will replace it with a new one and install it following your recommendation. Thanks for your excellent work! Keep helping us! A big hug!!
Glad you were able to solve your main cable issue. Mine broke a conductor and would not even turn on. Very glad I had a spare on hand for troubleshooting and immediate replacement. I was more careful with the routing this time, I think the cable had gotten crushed between the double crown fork and the frame.
So, it seems that if i were to make a single speed bike for the ATV trails, i would be better off with a hub motor? Most of our hills are rolling, not steep, but would it still be too stressful for a bike that i intend to regularly do about 35 mph?
Hi Felipe, awesome tips and great delivery! Would please let me know what model of Pinion bearing you put as an upgrade? Also I use a 32T chainring and find myself ghost pedaling often. You say it is also bad to be light on the pedals. Is it really that bad?
The upgrade bearing we use for BBS01/02 is 6002 which is a bit wider than the original. About 32T, yeah you will ghost pedaling a lot, but because you chainring is very small in diameter, it most likely has enough torque in any gear you're at so the chances of damaging the motor are way lower than someone with a 46T and ghost pedaling. If you can take few seconds of your time to give us a 5 star review that's highly appreciated g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
Good video! So I noticed a squealing sound coming from my BBS02. I took the plastic cover off, and it sounds like it's right where the pinion is. The sound only comes when i'm pedaling WITHOUt assist. So once assist or throttle is engaged, there is no squealing sound. I regreased it all today because I figured maybe it was rubbing or something? Not sure what to try next to fix it.
Looks like it's peddle like a normal bike and don't try to spin the tires all the time. Keep off the throttle and peddle. The motor is there to help, and not clime mountains on it's own. Great video, and I learned a lot of how to protect the motor, and how it's made on the inside.
Honestly, it's not like that. You could be throttling up a steep hill and you will not damage the motor, and you could be pedalling uphill and damaging the motor. This has to be very clear. When you pedal, you alleviate the torque in the motor shaft. However, you don't eliminate all the excess torque in the motor axle. So, to eliminate the motor's torque, you have to bring the revs of the motor to its maximum, and that's how we want you to use these motors. If your legs can keep up, we don't know. What we want you to do is to rev the thing out of these motors and be happy. Ride in the correct gear for the speed you're bringing and you will be happy. Please watch this video if you want to further deepen your knowledge. ruclips.net/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/видео.html Cheers, and thank you for your comment.
Thanks! I've been trying to research the Bafang kits after realising I don't like the idea of a dedicated e-bike bottom bracket shell for a Shimano or Bosch motor (no future proofing). Are the Bafang motors kits actually different depending on which wattage you get or is it just the controller limiting the power available? I was looking at getting just a 250w kit, but if the gears are beefier in the high wattage kits I would go with those and limit the power to maximise lifespan.
your bike frame will tell you what motor to use. Don't go for a VW Beetle body and a Ferrari engine. Bigger motors do not mean better performance, the bike has to last, you cannot die without brakes, your body cannot shake at high speeds without suspension. Consider those facts in your build because we engineer ebikes, and life matters.
@@whatsit2ya247 larger motor has better internal gears, but it doesn't make sense to carry more weight just because of the gears if he will never exceed 250W. You have to think about the bike as a whole.
Nice videos you make about Bafang. Shifting gear to a lighter gear is almost impossible, the rpm of the Bafang is to low. You have to use the torque to get to speed
Great video! Sometimes on long rides my motor completely stops working like it’s not getting power. This only happens for a short period then it comes back on. Is this this normal if I’m using too much power?
Good video. In your opinion, are Bafang motors adequately lubricated from the factory? I'm about to purchase two of them. Also, how many tooth chainring should the average rider use in your opinion?
Great video. My problem is motor stopped working mid ride. Charged up and would not turn on. Battery voltage is 51 on 48 v battery. Had a working new same system so i started replacing parts. Display was first choice and it worked. Then throttle. New throttle didnt fix. I tried my throttle on my bike and it does not work on known working system. Still no motor. When i try working system with my motor its no go. Could motor and throttle go out at once?. Thanks Steve
The old bbs02 was set with the throttle as priority over the PAS.. This allowed you to use a really low PAS setting and add throttle along with your leg power and it kept the heat and stress down.. It also felt natural.. Then they changed it when the newer bbs02-b came out.. Now the PAS is priority over throttle.. This ruined the drive.. While your turning the pedals the throttle won't work ( unless you pin it to full throttle which is obviously bad for the motor).. I built several of these and the first thing I do is cut the grey PAS wire!! PAS is stupid!! With no PAS you just ride it like a bike and add power with the throttle when you need it.. The PAS numbers 1-(3,5,or9) now act as what amps your throttle controls.. If you can program the controller set PAS 1 to say 15% ( of the 25 amps) 2 to 25% and so on until 9 is full amps 100% or 25 amps.. You can even set 9 to 90% just for piece of mind (or a customers bike).. You will be surprised that you can ride all day in say 6 and it has plenty of power.. Your bike will feel 100% more natural to ride, your drive will never overheat and your range will increase.. If your really low on battery you can go into PAS 1 and just tap or blip the throttle to keep your momentum up.. 🍻
Hi, thanks for the hint. I just bought a BBS02B and I didn't know of that change. Definitely agree with you: PAS is stupid. Where is that grey wire located? Inside the chassis?
If you pull off the controller you can find it there, or you could pull the side cover off and remove the big main drive shaft /gear (the one the pedals attach to) .. Behind that gear there is a plastic disc with a magnet on it, if you remove the magnet the system will not "see" you rotating the pedals. Then you can pedal the bike and add 1% - 100% variable throttle,, the combination of variable throttle and your leg power is natural, smooth, efficient, and fun. @@jstolba
The BBS02B and BBS01B don't have torque sensors in them from the factory, I don't think the BBSHD does either.. As far as cadence is concerned all your speed and odometer data is picked up by the magnet on the spoke that is read by the speed sensor so you still get speed and distance readings @@esayed
@ellaochomogo5154 45 seconds ago I like how you get technical with your videos. They are very informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I have a question... I recently installed a brand-new BBS 02 on one of my bikes. Everything functions as it should, but I have noticed that when the motor is maxed out at maximum speed under throttle, there is a slight vibration when the motor is under load, but the vibration goes away when I slow down by a couple of MPH. There is no noise just a slight vibration and all else functions normally. Is this vibration normal? Could this be the chain resonating? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I grease the reduction gear with Black Moly NGLI 2 grease... I choose small (30T Lekkie) chainrings so that the motor spins fast.. This does a couple things.. Keeps the motor cool, and extends range of battery. Paired with my Rohloff SpeedHub i am able to keep the motor from lugging down.. That will burn out the controller fast.. Listen to the motor and don't lug it down.. it should sound like it's spinning fast to work properly.
I'm a short guy. 5'7" so i ordered the square taper (bafang) 152mm crank arms.. This keep my knees from having to bend sharply on the return...I also put 1" spacers on the motor to set my feet further out for better alignment. I ordered a Lekkie narrow/wide 30T chainring. the smaller chain ring on the bafang keeps the motor spinning faster. And also gives more torque. I really like the smaller chainring, . And much easier to pedal.@@Cyberbikesau
Thanks, i have ridden over 12k miles since 2016... and i switched to the BBSHD about 4k miles ago and haven't looked back.. Riders who have big issues with these motors usually do not respect the limits of the equipment.. Maintaining chains, gears, tires is all important to make it last 12k miles.. Ride safe my friend.. and thanks for a great video.. @@Cyberbikesau
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks for your replay. Its just the pedal shaft, it doesn't move up and down, just in and out about 4 to 5mm if I grab the bottom of the pedal arm and push it in and out.
@@Cyberbikesau Strange, I've built two mid drive fat bikes and on one of them there isn't any play in the bottom bracket but on the other there is but it never used to be there when I first built it. On a normal bike you can just tighten up the bottom bracket if it gets loose on the barings to stop the lateral movement.
@@PINACI BBSHD have always had some axial looseness, but if you want to have a go, remove the seal on the left side and remove the first counter nut, then tighten the inside nut (finger tight) then install the counter nut, add some grease to seal it and the add the rubber seal on top, ready to roll!
I did 2000 miles on my first motor before it failed through loads of salt water corrision, I had it sealed like you said. My second motor has done over 20,000 miles and the only two issues I had were harness failure and gear sensor failure so replaced though. The motor is working in fine order. Thankfully this winter has not been so bad so less water, salt water entering it.
@@manoz6194 Thanks for replying. I am looking to buy a BBS02, but was unsure about it's reliability, but now after reading about your experience, I think I'll go ahead and buy one, from looking at the power level you mostly use, it seems like you are getting a good workout. This is what I want to do, as I still want to be able to get fit, and get a workout, I've seen one guide on programming the BBS02, saying to set the assist levels, 1 to 9, in 10% increments, and set the speed in each level to 100%, not sure if this is the best way to set up the motor, but I will try it, and see. Thanks again
@@manoz6194 Thanks Mano, it seems like the best way to set up the motor so that I can do some of the work, as well. I don't want to be riding along, and be ghost pedaling, like most seem to want to do, I need to get fit after being off a bike for a long time.
Thanks for the great video. Is the damage from over-torquing the motor shaft instant? The "second time" tightening that nut I may have exceeded the spec by a lot. Other than loosening the nut to 80N-m is there anything I should be watching out for? Its a 750W BBS02 with only about 200km so far. Regards, Randy
Yes and yes pay attention to the bearings that are inside housing, the roller bearing gets damaged by over tightening the nut that holds the motor to the bottom bracket
wow excellent instructional video, ok my issue i was out riding last night distance 17.5 miles average speed 20.4mph five miles from home i noticed rubbing rattling sound from the motor, like a dry chain on sprockets type sound, l think it sounds like pinion bearing issue although the motor has only travelled 120 miles since new, i set off in pedal assist 4/5 on fourth from smallest rear sprocket on 8 speed cassette, i change up a gear to gain speed and next i then up the pedal assist next number and so on until i am in power assist 9 and the smallest rear sprocket which results in top speed with some effort if pedalling gets too hard i drop pedal assist and the gear ratios for easier pedalling, am i doing this right or wrong, thanks again for this great video..
Let's be positive; you most likely have something rubbing on the mudguards, or the drive train is not properly tuned. However, you will break the motor if you continue to take off on the cassette's 5th gear (mid-ratio). Think of your bike being a manual stick car. Would you take off on the 3rd gear (mid-ratio) consecutively? No, you wouldn't. Why are you gonna do that to your bike? The power assist is an accelerator. If the cassette is engaged in high gear, one can still stall the motor on 4/5 of assist. I recommend watching these two videos to deepen your knowledge of middrive ebikes ruclips.net/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/видео.html ruclips.net/video/JgbYsX7TG3Y/видео.html And if you appreciate these comprehensive classes and the attention we give to every single comment, please give us a 5-star review: g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
@@Cyberbikesau Wow, thanks for that speedy, in depth reply, no nothing is rubbing, i am an engineer and don't do bodge jobs fitting anything, ever, lol, properly tuned, do you mean gears set up correctly, yes they are spot on if you do refer to that, alas the rear mech is slightly bent but this does not alter the bikes gear changes, setting off in 5th gear on a bike, come on no one realistically sets off in first gear, the biggest rear sprocket on a bike, anyway i'll have a look at the videos, one more thing Bafang market leaders in e bike stuff and have been manufacturing them for years, yet it needs someone like Lekkie to come along to make the left hand side cnc crank arm to counter the offset drive side crank, lol, i'll come back to you on this but i would liken it to riding a horse and not a bike with the cranks both being an inch further out each side than is the natural riding position.
@@howardridge1153, the ticking noise could be the bent rear mech or hanger. If the jockey wheels are not aligned, the derailleur will make noise. I suggest aligning the derailleur and the hanger because the drive train "deforms" its shape when the motor is at full power, and those things can be seen when the bike is on the work stand. You asked my opinion, another engineer with 6 years in ebikes, and I am telling you, if you don't start using the big sprocket, you will break the motor. If you don't like shifting gears, go with a 38-40T chainring. I rarely use Lekkie parts other than their chainrings, but yeah they do quality parts. About Bafang, they are doing great. Millions of motors are sold yearly, so a company like Lekkie could enter the market. Cheers
@@Cyberbikesau lol ill replace rear mech but is is not the issue, as for using biggest rear sprocket ok but the chain alignment then is offensive on the eye it's so off centre to a nice straight chainline, as for front ring i am using the 40t front ring, thanks again, and "you're wrong mutha fucka", comment, lol.I just watched your gear change video and tbh im pretty much there, fyi, i do not have throttle, i prefer pedal assist only, so i use a gear sensor, which as you know cuts motor power, so setting off i get up to speed on power assist 4 approx then change gear on bikes gears, then get up to speed and up pedal assist to next level 5, then change gear, then up pedal assist to level 6 and so on, so effectively i'm nearly there, i just need to set off on pedal assist 1 and biggest rear sprocket and your work here is done, lol. excellent video again.
My problem with my Bafang motor is the fact that it twists inside the bottom bracket, I have used Lekki locking ring to hold the motor in, and I torque it to spec and it still twists in the bottom bracket just slightly. I also have 2 different types of stabilizing bars holding it in place, yet the motor still slightly twists in the bottom bracket when the motor is running.
Which grease do you recommend for the bbs02b primary and secondary gears? I read about the Mobilgrease SHC100, it's a Lithium based grease. Recommended as a replacement for the Mobil 28, which is hard to find in Europe.
That’s a good grease, I checked it’s data sheet: Mobilith SHC 100 is an antiwear and extreme pressure grease primarily recommended for higher speed applications such as electric motors, where reduced friction, low wear and long service life are required. It is an NLGI 2 Grade / ISO VG 100 grease with a synthetic base fluid. Its operating temperature range is -40º C* to 150º C. As a rule of thumb go with high temp grease from a decent brand, it can be with lithium or not, higher viscosity is key for this application
@@Cyberbikesau I think I will replace the original grease anyway, it's the petroleum based black grease in the secondary gear, it has a tendency of spread to the primary nylon gear and in the long run cause decay.
@@Cyberbikesau Yea, one would think so. But there are a many sources included RUclips that claims that the Black Moly grease is harmful for plastics. I don't know if it is both the bbs02 and the new bbs02b?
@@bengtmowitz5012 we are talking here about metal gears, what I understood for primary and secondary are the granny and pinion gears I mentioned in the video. For the nylon gear use a non lithium extra dense grease or a friction reduction paste
Great video of the BB02 series motors. The last (8th) issue is something I am dealing with now. Foolishly let someone else ride my trike and I believe the magnets behind the granny gear are either broken or disrupted. I will know more once the motor is apart, but is there a replacement magnet available? I do have a spare motor - I will install that one - then tear this one down for diagnosis/repair. Thanks, Russ
Yes there's spare magnets in the market but be aware that if the magnet has been broken its because there was excessive torque on the axle and granny gear, I suggest replacing the entire axle and gear together with the mag sensor.
Hi Mike, thank you for writing me line here on RUclips, it would be nice to see you again soon! The new shop is much better than the previous one, and the new factory bikes are great too!
Hi ....thank you for your good and very informatif video , how ever i have a question , since I've got a heart problem i really can't keep up with a good cadence while pedalling , so i install a small chainring 36T to prevent the controller and other parts inside get damage quickly, i like to go ride at mountain side with a lot of very steep hill , is it my set up for the chainring is correct ? And i also keep the Watt meter on the display at around 100 - 350 Watt . Thank you a lot for your answer , best regard
Yes perfect, your ebike will last a long time 36T is great for your application, watch this video ruclips.net/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/видео.html to understand 300W high torque and 300W high speed, and keep shifting your gears at high revs. Cheers
I have been using my BBS02 for about 2 years now, I don't really travel far on it, Just going to shop and local journeys, The paint on the motor stated to come off showing the bare metal housing of the motor, So I sprayed some anti rust paint on it, It is still working well though, I have never used the programme wire, I bought one but I have left it default, I feel the BBS02 is enough for the little commuting I do on the E-bike, I am going to put another E-bike together in the Summer, From ground up an enduro or down hill, Probably an enduro though, A project you could say... Still though doing the BBS02 build have saved me from all sorts of stress not having a license, I can just jump on the E-bike and get to where I needs pretty fast as you can use short cuts and parks, I hate the roads anyways, I feel there is way too many cars on the roads see, So I am glad I am not part of the mess you see on the roads, lol....
Great video as always! I just installed my Bbs02b 500w a month ago. Everything is going well, however I experienced a slight ticking noise when pedaling? I am just about to take it apart and change all the grease (primary & secondary gear) to Mobilgrease SHC100. What do you think about that?
Hi Bengt thanks for your feedback. If you haven’t ridden your bike in mud and adverse conditions, there’s no need to open the motor and grease it. I suggest doing it when the motor reaches 5000km. I would focus my attention on the drive train, you might have gears that are not matching properly with the chain or there’s a frozen chain link. Let me know how it goes. Cheers
@@Cyberbikesau No, the ticking noise is definitely coming from the motor. It's not disturbing in any way. Just a slight ticking, not all the time. Primarily when I start pedaling for a couple of minutes, then it disappears. That leads me to think that it is a greasing thing?
@@bengtmowitz5012 before replacing it, try tunning the gears and checking for a frozen chain link. We don’t have a video about it, but because it could be a problem you’re facing, we will record a video about it
Dear Felipe, thanks for your video. Regarding your first problem, I covered the gaskets you showed with silicone and then painted them black. Since this was handmade, it does not look good, but I'm almost sure that water will not go in from there. (I cannot upload the pictures here). Is it common for the water to go inside the motor through the bearings? Of course, I'm not riding in the river. Now, regarding the motor effort that you referred to later, my granny has 36 teeth. Would you suggest a smaller front ring? BTW, my cassette is 11-36T. Thank you and please keep on with the good work. My Bafang is 36V 500W.
Does using throttle often wear out mid-drive more than pedaling? Or would it be okay if we are in the right gear? I plan to use throttle to start rolling then pedal
You have to throttle on the right gear, and on the standard Bafang controller settings the throttle is stronger than the pedal assist so yes, considering that throttle and PAS are on the right gear, the throttle will wear out the motor more than the pedal assist, but hey, do you want power or not =)
A good advice and instructions of yours to avoid problems on the bafang mid drive motor. Sir just asking, how did you know a 1000w bafang mid drive motor if it is tampered or not? Thanks sir.
@@rodolfobaliga7577 check the bolts because when tightening them it will mark their heads. Inside the motor you can look for the white glue that keeps the wires together, if the glue has tears on its surface the motor has been opened and components replaced.
I have a bike with a bafang motor and display on it but the speed is limited and I can't change the setting (according to the manual at least) it has the triangular type of plug so I can't use a phone to reprogram it either. If I get a compatible display and change out the one I have now, will it change the programming for the speed limit? Or would I need a new control unit?
Good mechanical intel ,thanks.No power by throttle or pedal.I have a red ! on the controller next to the batt.indicator.I disconnected the Brake and still get this alert...any trouble shooting ideas -1000 w.hd Bafang?
Great Video -- Very Informative on the Bafang Motor! Do you recommend every like 2500K to open and clean the motor internal gears and add synthetic grease?
Hi, tnx for the video, I have a BBSHD and I have the magnetic disk problem but I am not able to remove the disk from the crankshaft, there are two rings with a little notch but i can't remove. What do you suggest me? And where i can find the compass for KM5 ring? TNX
buy something like this www.aliexpress.com/item/32979786386.html?spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.2.4aebDtyKDtyK87&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21AUD%21AU%24%202.93%21AU%24%201.79%21%21%21%21%21%402103245416819766136752944eff23%2166745174678%21btf&_t=pvid:703eee36-7704-4b0b-8336-f8151c03a6e7&afTraceInfo=32979786386__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1681976614 remove that ring and get going, you've had a problem on the disc because of excessive torque on the pedal axle, it's because youre riding with a heavy high speed gear being at low speeds, shift 2 gears down and you will be on the correct gear
Could you do a video on lubrcation of the Bafang BBS02 and HD a,s I see alot of conflicting videos on lubing your mid drive gears. Also what grease is best and non damaging to the nylon gears. Thanks Felipe...
Hi Thanks for information, my bafang bbso2 locked the crank arms so it just kept pedaling and wouldn't free-wheeling I was out on a ride so I just forced it to not turn by standing up on both pedals, then it did free-wheeling but then when I went to pedal again there was nothing it would just pedal so I used the Thumb throttle. Do you have any ideas what I have done, I have not pulled it apart yet. But interesting to to hear what you would think it is.
excessive torque when tightening the nut that attached the motor to the frame, consequently you broke the needle bearings inside of the pedal axle, replace the needle bearings and the cranks will spin again
I have a BBSHD mounted on my SunSeeker trike. The other day I heard grinding sounds in the motor. Then the pedals locked up. The motor still works via the throttle and that got me home. I have about 2000 miles on the trike. Any idea what the problem is?
The roller bearing responsible for supporting the pedal axle has been damaged. Why? Overtorque when tightening the motor to the trike frame. On the left side of the motor, where the nut and mount are, remove the gasket that's on the shaft and remove the special nuts that are threaded to the shaft and you will be able to slide the axle of the bearings and replace that damaged bearing. Good luck with your repair.
@@Jeff20657 it shorten the life of the old bearing. Press (don’t hammer) a new bearing in. If you think you deformed the housing too much, buy a new motor, but I don’t think that’s the case. What I can say from my experience is that that bearing breaks by over tightening the motor to the frame or corrosion. You mentioned 2000miles, how many months to cover that distance?
So the conclusions of prolong the life span of mid drive kit is to shift gears whenever we come to a stop,and starts moving with lower gears just like how we ride motorcycles? Because im about to invest on this kit to my mtb and after watching this really got me worried .
Thank you for a very informative video. When I pedal my BBS01 with a flat battery, the pedals turn the motor, making it very hard work is there a clutch which may be broken please?...thank you
The motor has a clutch inside, when pedalling the motor doesn’t turn, only the chainring turns. It’s normal to have a small resistance when pedalling and the motor is not on. If you pedal forwards when the motor is off and the lights turn on, there’s a problem in the clutch otherwise you’re just facing the resistance of the bearings and clutch
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks for that, super quick reply. without the motor on, it is virtually impossible to pedal, especially up hill, so I guess there is a clutch problem? Which lights are you referring to please? Thank you
Mine was buzzing like it was running out of batteries and now doesn't start with throttle or pedal assist. I think it's a bad connection but i hope the controller isn't damaged by the intermittent power. I was having to run it off a speaker wire with banana plugs in the battery as i need a new battery mount cable. The motor connection bottom bracket is annoying because it comes loose as there is about half a tonne of force trying to turn it at full power. My motor is now held up with a bungee. Otherwise it rises up and dents the frame under power. I might need a rubber washer between it and the bottom bracket.
Hey man. My bbshd has stopped spinning. Most of the time I've been in the right gears. In level 4 of pedal assist. Any time in wrong gear would've been minimal and accidental. I still see the display. But the throttle doesn't give anything or pedal assist. Before this I did hear the throttle make a high pitched sound and a watt reading would show... But with no spinning. I did momentarily see an error message 09. But that has since gone. I've opened the controller and made sure all phase wires are connected but this hasn't fixed the issue. I've changed wiring harness and it hasn't fixed it. What does this problem sound like?
or controller problem or motor hall sensor problems. If you have ridden the ebike always taking off on the first gear and riding at the correct gear for the speed you're travelling (forget PAS levels) you have been victim of water damage, otherwise I cant see these motors failing from nowhere
so what will you recommend to avoid those 8 problems? the bafang mid drive motor parts are available and where to purchase? thanks for giving us tips bro. more power.
shift gears, start on the 1st gear of the cassette and as the speed increases shift gears up. Before you stop the bike, bring the gears back to 1st gear
Hello! Thanks for the video, it’s great! I have a Lasher Handbike which change my life! But now I have two problems: 1) the assistance it’s not turning in right away, I have to pedal backwards a bit so starts and 2) the engine lost a lot of power. What do you think it’s happening? Thanks for your help!
@@Cyberbikesau Hello! Sorry its me again…. There is not obvious damage on the PAS magnet disc or sensor…. Could we have a WhatsApp call please 🙏🏻? I can pay for your advice!! Thanks a lot!!
Most of the gearshift errors are from using too small/ low of a gear and applying too much force/heat. Are their issues from too high/large of a gear and wide open throttle?
thank you for this video. amazing.. my torque wrench only has up to 60 nm.. anyway.. so far my motor is holding up with lekkie one nut. knock knock.. who's there.. 4:46 ;) amazing video
I find that the power of my Bafang 500w is so great that I have to change up gears 2 or 3 at a time to keep up with the acceleration and spend most of my riding time in top gear averaging 35 kph for flat cruising. I guess that is exactly the way to wear out my gears? What if I could fit a CVT in lieu of derailleurs? Would that help keep my motor in good shape?
Hi Keith, the secret to have a bafang motor that lives for a long time is to make it spin fast. You could have a CVT which is an improvement in comparison to derailleurs, but if you don’t tune the CVT or don’t shift gears on the derailleur to allow your motor to spin fast you will damage the motor.
Excellent breakdown! ThxU! Quick question. Can you use the power output gauge to insure that you’re not stressing the inner & outer drive train. I’ve got a 620 Ultra and virtually never drive the wattage into the 750-1000 range! Usually, a simple downshift or harder pedal will drop the wattage on a hill or starting out! Should this be the goal or am I missing something?
PS: Would an RPM gauge be helpful?
It’s preferable to have more speed (rotation) than torque when the motor is performing, that means is better to be on lower gears (1-2-3) let the motor Rev higher then you shift the gear up. Keeping it below 1000w is good for the motor but doing it in the wrong gear will still cause damages. Please watch the following video, it should answer all your questions ruclips.net/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/видео.html
Basically the best way to looking at properly using your gear Cadence is to compare your cycling to that of an 18 wheeler semi truck. Semi trucks use a gearing to be able to move forward. If they did not use all their gearing they would blow the engine. This holds true with an e-bike.
severe lack of mechanical knowledge on YT regarding e-bikes. Thanks for de-mystifying a lot of the issues.
Thank you for your comment, we really appreciate people like you on the web! See you in the next video
I hate it when I'm interested in an ebike, and 2mins in, the reviewer shows total incompetency, and a lack of understanding of tools in general. There's one guy who always assembles on grass....right next to pavement! Companies are sending test bikes to those who just complain about "their way, versus the manufactured build" Everybody wants speed, that's not why you're on a bike, you own a car, that goes fast. I want consistent charges, and reliability. Fast usually mean faster wear out. There's a fine line, and some are just going too far.
I'll join the chorus of bewildered people.
Those are high quality videos, of a professional showing us around his workshop & going way deep into the gear that we are oh-so-very interested in.
I do not get it how is it only like 1.5k subs.
Very informative. You show problems with the Bafang design and the preventive measures to keep you motor up and running, that no other channel addresses. ..Great video ..
Thank you,you made my decision to buy bicycle with hub motor
you're welcome
LOL, I burned up the Hall Sensors in my hub motor the first day I had it by ignorance, so there's that !
Awesome video!! Thank you so much for sharing these issues and tips to avoid them (shift!!!). I really appreciate your incredible experience gained from supporting and maintaining these systems. Your word is gold.
Thank you for your words, I wish the world was full of people like you, your positive energy and consideration can move mountain. Continue like that and we will have a brighter future! All the best
Wow. What a breakdown of this unit and how it works. Excellent! I just bought a used Brilliant brand Nexus-geared bike with 750 Bafang, and I noticed on the second day of riding [two days ago] that the motor is "popping" each time the motor engages using either PAS or throttle (pop can be felt when touching the motor housing). Pop in the motor is the same whether engaging with throttle or peddle sensor.
Check the granny gear and pinion coupling. You most likely have to replace the granny gear or the bearing of the pinion and the pinion itself.
Thank you for sharing your excellent knowledge of this unit! I certainly will shift more than I already am and try to protect the unit from water. Unfortunately, I could not use the so call 'Lekkie Bling Ring' which would have given me a far better gear ratio and taken strain of the motor on steep hills.
Thank you so much. Your video is full of actual knowledge. I've been search for a video with some explanation to it and yours had it Sir. Thorough and Complete. You have no idea how much better you've made my day yo! I'll be back every drop brother!
Thanks Paul!
Brilliant information...it begs the question...in a fairly hilly area what size /teeth chainring would you recommend? TIA
We would suggest 42T which is a good mix of torque and top speed
Thnx for your videos. I have been running a BBSHD for over 5 years, opened it to look at overall condition & to lube it last year when transferring it to another bike. Being able to program cadence and power levels (as well as setting it for max power) has made it very easy & comfortable to use, especially on technical mountain biking trails. You are so correct about shifting, having been a year-round commuter and mountain biker on "acoustic" bikes, it is second nature to me on electric bikes.
I'm glad to have you in this channel, welcome to Cyberbikes. What do you think our next video should talk about?
@@Cyberbikesau so far, I have only seen this one video of yours, the algorithm just suggested it. At some point, covering programming for the BBS01/02 & BBSHD also external controllers for the hub drive folks, either separately or as a comparison. I do not know how many folks have actually done it.
@@davebrown9725 Nice one, we have a quick programming video ruclips.net/video/bX-gFdU6aBM/видео.html&lc=UgwPeB7ZCUdPoSWUHep4AaABAg.9knzFOb63-o9lSFfOkBp2V and the controller for hub guys that's nice though. Thanks for the insights
You don't have to shift anything, just buy a normal controller not bafang piece of shit
I have also changed of the (many) setup parameters by using a USB cable & software. It runs indeed smoother and better adjusted to my riding style. This should also protect the unit and reduce wear of the drive train.
Thanks for this great advice! Some people recommend lubricating the BBSxx motors even when they are brand new. What do you think about that? I just bought one and will put it into the bike soon...
My opinion is: why will you change the oil of a car you've just bought brand new from the auto dealer?
We have done Bafang conversions for over 6 years always installing the motors new out of the box and we have had no breakdowns due to "poor lubrication".
I just think it's an unnecessary step
Awesome video! Thank you so much! Can i ask what is the name of the lockring tool you are using? And where can you buy it?
Your channel is one of the most useful and informative for someone who possess an electric bike, like me. Congratulations for the great quality videos 😉🙌
Thank you very much!
Excellent breakdown,im new to e bike's,seems alot problem so I'll wait couple years till product ironed out issues, many many thanks for information, excellent..
Get one of our Cyberbikes if you're in Australia it's a flawless product and will last many years. That video is peculiar to a type of motor and the break downs happen because people dont know how to use the drive train of the bicycle and overload the motor
Lots of great information, clearly explained. Good job, Mate!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much, I have a bbshd that when I pedal and I'm pushing hard with no motor help, or straight motor it releases almost like I'm switching gears but I'm not. I replaced inner and outer gears on right side thinking that maybe they were letting go under force, but it didn't change anything. I will continue to look deeper.
If you did a paid channel that would give parts numbers and help source things like bearings and go deeper in to troubleshooting ebikes, sourcing parts for all pev. I would pay. I spend hours doing research to find better ways to do repairs and I would be willing to stock it all in the US because it is a nightmare here.
Thank you for the video, amazing
Hi Thank you for your insights, we will try to work around stocking Bafang parts.
From what I understood from your description, you most likely have a frozen chain link or a worn cassette sprocket or a worn out chainring (less usual but happens)
super helpful, thanks. I've either stripped my nylon gear or granny gear. It won't catch in 2-3 speed now and sounds like gling-dingadingading when its not catching
the equation is simple:
Big chainring + heavy ebike + not always starting on first gear + riding at low speeds on high gears = motor problems
hi Felipe, thansk for the amazing video, so easy to understand and enjoyable. i have a question, currently my bafang motor does not run and i suspect it is the nylon gear. if i pull back the bike i can hear loud clicking sound from the pedal. just like your feedback if my diagnose is correct
Hi Lawrence, thanks for your words. About your issue, you have to be more specific, when you say it doesn't run do you mean there's electrical power, you throttle the motor and you hear a clunky clicking sound coming from the motor?
nicely explained. its good to know whats the inside and how it works. keep it Up great Visuals..❤❤❤
Thanks a lot 😊
I have a BBSO2 750w 48v-30 amp dual battery pushing a Trek 4500 26" OEM 44T 8 sp 16/46 freewheel with less than 400 miles. We have a lot of hills and the motor got very hot for a second or two the cranks were spinning with no traction. I hope I didn't damage the motor but once it cooled down I had traction. I ordered a 38T,36T, and Lekkie 28T chainring. The 38T was a big improvement but scared to test on that hill. So I just installed Lekkie 28T using the same 8 sp with the 16/46 freewheel.
Any input would be gladly appreciate ?
Use the gear ratio in your favour, unless you're carrying hundreds of kilos of load and riding offroad, engaging the 46T with a 44T chainring would be enough on a 26" wheel ebike. The motor is only cooking because you're using the wrong gear ratio. If your pedals are hard to pedal, the motor is struggling. If it's easy, the motor is alright. Always keep the motor in high revs, like cutting out on revs, that's how you should ride your ebike.
Use the gear ratio in your favour, unless you're carrying hundreds of kilos of load and riding offroad, engaging the 46T with a 44T chainring would be enough on a 26" wheel ebike. The motor is only cooking because you're using the wrong gear ratio. If your pedals are hard to pedal, the motor is struggling. If it's easy, the motor is alright. Always keep the motor in high revs, like cutting out on revs, that's how you should ride your ebike.
@@Cyberbikesau Thank you for your quick reply! Today I did a test run using the 28 T Lekkie with the 8 sp 16/46 freewheel. This was much better gear ratio for our hills definitely a workout no more ghost pedaling motor warm not hot. I'm crusing up the hills 20 mph in 4 and 5 gear. The two batteries do add weight but, no more range anxiety.
Hi. great to see info on Bafang motors out there - here's my problem and your diagnosis would be gratefully received. The battery is old but still functioning, with range greatly down but with frequent charging it's fine... frequently now however the motor does not engage (the assist is zero bars) and sometimes this is accompanied by the screen going dead. Sometimes I can have it on, get no assistance for 10 minutes or so and then suddenly the motor kicks it and we're back to normal. An intermittent problem! What to do? Many thanks J
Hi J, it's important to don't make confusion with the symptoms.
1. Battery losing capacity, that will eventually cause the bike to shut off under load. The display will turn off and the bike will die. Re-balancing the battery cells my solve this issue in the short term. Replacing the battery will solve this issue in the long term.
2. The bike being ON and no assist whatsoever, means that you have a trigger on the brake sensors. Maybe your brake lever is damaged, or your brake pads are worn out. Unplug the brake sensors and see if the bike stopped cutting off. If it stopped to cut off, you have to access why the brake sensors are being triggered and fix it!
If you appreciate our time and dedication to solving your problem please generously give us a good review g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
Best regards!
Seems like most of these issues are caused by improper use. These motors need to be used like combustion engines from what I can tell except when you lug a Bafang, it will rip itself apart rather than stall. If that is not something you want to do/learn, I guess a hub motor would be a better choice. Thanks for the great video.
yes you're right
Thanks Felipe, quick question. You mentioned replacing the bearing on the pinion with one 2mm larger? Could you post the link or part number?
Hi 😊 where can you get the socket?
which one? bafang lock ring tool
Which Bafang motor and front chain ring (42T, 44T, 52T etc) would you recommend for a 2013 Diamondback Response XE29? I already have a two 20ah 48v batteries from my other hub motor bike. I am looking to make a 43 mile, somewhat hilly commute about 3 times a week. My state considers anything above 750w unlawful, so there's that. Thanks in advance.
because it's hilly and you want to save battery go with 42T chainring
great video I just have a question - the engine suddenly stopped working, it doesn't turn at all. and there are no errors on the screen, everything turns on, even the speed is shown
but the engine doesn't start, do you have any suggestions?
Thanks u
I don't know if I should try to buy a new controller or cables but that don't look damaged
brake cut-offs or the phase wires are melted or water damage inside the controller, search our videos you gonna find the answers following those topics
Excellent video, thank you. Can you please give details of the socket type and size used for the torque wrench. I need to buy one of these. Many thanks.
I dont remember the code, look for bafang 4 paws tool socket
Great video! I have a question. Why is it bad to have the motor in a higher cadence? I prefer to ride staying in lower gears most of the time. Just wondering why this would clause damage?
Hi Joseph, in the entire video I’m asking you to keep the motor at high revs and consequently your legs at high cadence, that’s the ideal riding condition. However, keeping your legs floating in the air (ultra high cadence legs can’t keep up) specially when the motor needs help to climb a hill will overload the pinion and granny gear coupling
@@Cyberbikesau Okay thank you. So I'm thinking for light riding it should be okay. Just not climbing or at high pas mods.
@@josephi6916 Here is a suggestion - Use your gears as you would without a Power Assist. Set your power level at a comfortable level to match the speed you wish to ride. For example for normal on road or trail riding without other traffic to interfere, set your power level on 2. If you are riding around people or traffic etc. you may wish to ride a lot slower so set your power level to 1. When you come up to a steep hill you can hear when the motor starts to bog down so increase your power level as well as changing down to a lower gear for the climb. Once you reach the top of your hill, put your power level back to where you need it (1 or 2) & change your gears to where you need them for a comfortable cadence. It's the bogging down of your motor that does the damage so keep the motor in it's happy rev range by choosing your gears to maintain your comfortable cadence.
@@daytriker Thanks for the reply. I mostly ride that way. I think the problem I'm having is since the motor does so much of the work it's hard to tell what gear I actually need to be in most of the time. I normally push off with my legs when I start riding to make it easier on the motor. I just wonder how bad it would be to mostly just leave the bike in the middle gears and not fuss with it too much unless there's a clear sign the motor is bogging. This video also thought me that too high of a cadence can be bad as well but my bike reaches hi cadence very quickly.
@@josephi6916 I believe there is a misunderstanding of 'too high a cadence.' To use a standard transmission as an analogy, if you are not in the correct gear to allow your engine to run efficiently you can hear it bog down. Also if you leave your transmission in too low a gear, you will be revving the motor more than is necessary wasting power or fuel. I would suggest leaving your power level low & increasing it as required since this will most certainly force you to use your gearing first.
Thank you for producing a very good video about common problems with Bafangs. I have been installing Bafang & Tongsheng Mid Drives for about 5 years now & any problems that were brought to my attention were nearly always customers not using their gears & relying on the motor like an automatic transmission. For this reason most of the kits I sell are without the throttle. This is one way of reducing the stripped out gear problem. Do you think it is possible to combine the torque sensor from the Tongsheng with the Cadence Sensor of the BBS02? If this is possible, it would open up a whole new market for a much improved Mid Drive.
Agree 100%
I have a new motor. Power of the bbshd and has torque sensing. Let me know if you are interested
@@Alex-uh1mj Hi Alex, is this the new Ultra series Bafang Mid Drives? If so, they require a dedicated frame & are not for retrofits as far as I know.
@@daytriker no. It's not, i develop ebikes for a manufacturer for a living. I know what im talking about, dont worry. Its a retro fit motor to any standard bike with a bottom bracket. You wont of heard of it because im the only person with it...
@Alex link please.
Do I need to add some grease to nylon gear bearing inside or is it dry bearing one way clutch with no grease
I would add those green Shimano refined grease
Thank you for your video. Excellent explanation! I'm up to buy a Bafang 750W motor. I've seen that many people complain about the excesive resistance on the motor when pedaling alone. And that it hapends after some time, at first it was ok. Is maybe the problem of overtightening the bottom bracket nut that you mentioned in the video? That distorts the haul pipe and so afects the bearings. Thanks
Yes exactly. That issue could be due to overtightening the bottom bracket nut. Glad you enjoyed the video! Cheers, please help our channel grow and give us a good review on Google g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
@@Cyberbikesau thanks for your response. I gave you 5 stars. Cheers
@@EbassEbike thank you for your help my friend!
Great informative video thanks. Question my bafang mid drive 750w runs good then after 30 seconds it turns off. Continues to do this. Any suggestions where I can troubleshoot? Thanks
nice useful details...my bbsd 350w dosent start on pressing power button on some research after checking all contacts points etc finally noted that contrller is not giving out 5v to red wire..what can id
Hello thank you for this video. I’m looking at bafang and CYC or hub drive motor. I like mid most. The kit I’m looking for to fit Scott aspect 950 but unsure what front gear I need.
That's why people hire our services
thank you boss!
You're welcome!
Hello Felipe! I would like to congratulate you for your videos! They are great!
I'm following all your tips here on your channel and I'm applying them to my BBS01.
I would like to ask for your kindness and suggest that, if possible, you produce some videos addressing the problems with electrical and electronic components. How to detect these problems and how to fix them. I'm here in Brazil and technical assistance is very far away. It is located in São Paulo. The company is really good, but the logistics for me are very complicated due to the distance and cost. With these classes that you give us on your channel, it opens up a great possibility of solving it right here in my city. I had a problem with the main cable giving err 30. I managed to detect the problem, I will replace it with a new one and install it following your recommendation. Thanks for your excellent work! Keep helping us! A big hug!!
Glad you were able to solve your main cable issue. Mine broke a conductor and would not even turn on. Very glad I had a spare on hand for troubleshooting and immediate replacement. I was more careful with the routing this time, I think the cable had gotten crushed between the double crown fork and the frame.
If we launch ebike classes, would you own them?
Yes, I would take the course. You have excellent teaching skills, despite the language barrier I can understand you well.
So, it seems that if i were to make a single speed bike for the ATV trails, i would be better off with a hub motor? Most of our hills are rolling, not steep, but would it still be too stressful for a bike that i intend to regularly do about 35 mph?
Hi Felipe, awesome tips and great delivery! Would please let me know what model of Pinion bearing you put as an upgrade? Also I use a 32T chainring and find myself ghost pedaling often. You say it is also bad to be light on the pedals. Is it really that bad?
The upgrade bearing we use for BBS01/02 is 6002 which is a bit wider than the original. About 32T, yeah you will ghost pedaling a lot, but because you chainring is very small in diameter, it most likely has enough torque in any gear you're at so the chances of damaging the motor are way lower than someone with a 46T and ghost pedaling.
If you can take few seconds of your time to give us a 5 star review that's highly appreciated g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
@@Cyberbikesau= SORRY , Page NOT FOUND
= ERROR.404 !?
@Cyberbikes. With the EggRider it is possible to create an E30. The only way for me to fix this was through firmware flashing
Good video!
So I noticed a squealing sound coming from my BBS02. I took the plastic cover off, and it sounds like it's right where the pinion is. The sound only comes when i'm pedaling WITHOUt assist. So once assist or throttle is engaged, there is no squealing sound. I regreased it all today because I figured maybe it was rubbing or something? Not sure what to try next to fix it.
I just greased my granny gear on my BBS02b and noticed it was straight cut and not angle cut.Did they change it?
?!
they have a small angle, not 100% straight
I'm surprised you forgot to mention shifting gears! 🤪 Great video. Thank you 👍
Immense in depth absorbed added knowledge. Many thanks...
I am starting to have difficulty peddling my bafang while assist is off. Feels seized up. Peddles fine when assisted. I love your tutorials man!
pedaling
pedals
Check the needle bearings that support the pedal shaft, when the motor nut has been over-tightened those bearings suffer a lot and they break!
Looks like it's peddle like a normal bike and don't try to spin the tires all the time. Keep off the throttle and peddle. The motor is there to help, and not clime mountains on it's own. Great video, and I learned a lot of how to protect the motor, and how it's made on the inside.
Honestly, it's not like that. You could be throttling up a steep hill and you will not damage the motor, and you could be pedalling uphill and damaging the motor. This has to be very clear. When you pedal, you alleviate the torque in the motor shaft. However, you don't eliminate all the excess torque in the motor axle. So, to eliminate the motor's torque, you have to bring the revs of the motor to its maximum, and that's how we want you to use these motors. If your legs can keep up, we don't know. What we want you to do is to rev the thing out of these motors and be happy. Ride in the correct gear for the speed you're bringing and you will be happy.
Please watch this video if you want to further deepen your knowledge.
ruclips.net/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/видео.html
Cheers, and thank you for your comment.
Amazing info 👍
Thanks! I've been trying to research the Bafang kits after realising I don't like the idea of a dedicated e-bike bottom bracket shell for a Shimano or Bosch motor (no future proofing). Are the Bafang motors kits actually different depending on which wattage you get or is it just the controller limiting the power available? I was looking at getting just a 250w kit, but if the gears are beefier in the high wattage kits I would go with those and limit the power to maximise lifespan.
your bike frame will tell you what motor to use. Don't go for a VW Beetle body and a Ferrari engine. Bigger motors do not mean better performance, the bike has to last, you cannot die without brakes, your body cannot shake at high speeds without suspension. Consider those facts in your build because we engineer ebikes, and life matters.
@Cyberbikes Wtf?? The guy was just asking if larger watt motors had better internals.
@@whatsit2ya247 larger motor has better internal gears, but it doesn't make sense to carry more weight just because of the gears if he will never exceed 250W. You have to think about the bike as a whole.
Nice videos you make about Bafang.
Shifting gear to a lighter gear is almost impossible, the rpm of the Bafang is to low. You have to use the torque to get to speed
when riding with the throttle you can rev to maximum, just be aware that too much torque on the motor axle it will compromise the motor.
Great video! Sometimes on long rides my motor completely stops working like it’s not getting power. This only happens for a short period then it comes back on. Is this this normal if I’m using too much power?
Could be many things, like burnt phase wires (check our video library on how to fix this issue), brake sensor playing out or overtemperature
Did you find what the problem was
Good video. In your opinion, are Bafang motors adequately lubricated from the factory? I'm about to purchase two of them.
Also, how many tooth chainring should the average rider use in your opinion?
…SHIFT GEARS…!!
Thanks for posting this, good advice.
Great video. My problem is motor stopped working mid ride. Charged up and would not turn on. Battery voltage is 51 on 48 v battery. Had a working new same system so i started replacing parts. Display was first choice and it worked. Then throttle. New throttle didnt fix. I tried my throttle on my bike and it does not work on known working system. Still no motor. When i try working system with my motor its no go. Could motor and throttle go out at once?. Thanks Steve
Go on the brake cut off then the controller or motor hall sensor, if no error code on the display, check the phase wires
The old bbs02 was set with the throttle as priority over the PAS.. This allowed you to use a really low PAS setting and add throttle along with your leg power and it kept the heat and stress down.. It also felt natural.. Then they changed it when the newer bbs02-b came out.. Now the PAS is priority over throttle.. This ruined the drive.. While your turning the pedals the throttle won't work ( unless you pin it to full throttle which is obviously bad for the motor).. I built several of these and the first thing I do is cut the grey PAS wire!! PAS is stupid!! With no PAS you just ride it like a bike and add power with the throttle when you need it.. The PAS numbers 1-(3,5,or9) now act as what amps your throttle controls.. If you can program the controller set PAS 1 to say 15% ( of the 25 amps) 2 to 25% and so on until 9 is full amps 100% or 25 amps.. You can even set 9 to 90% just for piece of mind (or a customers bike).. You will be surprised that you can ride all day in say 6 and it has plenty of power.. Your bike will feel 100% more natural to ride, your drive will never overheat and your range will increase.. If your really low on battery you can go into PAS 1 and just tap or blip the throttle to keep your momentum up.. 🍻
This is news to me, thanks.
Hi, thanks for the hint. I just bought a BBS02B and I didn't know of that change. Definitely agree with you: PAS is stupid. Where is that grey wire located? Inside the chassis?
If you pull off the controller you can find it there, or you could pull the side cover off and remove the big main drive shaft /gear (the one the pedals attach to) .. Behind that gear there is a plastic disc with a magnet on it, if you remove the magnet the system will not "see" you rotating the pedals. Then you can pedal the bike and add 1% - 100% variable throttle,, the combination of variable throttle and your leg power is natural, smooth, efficient, and fun.
@@jstolba
Is this apply to cadence sensors or torque sensors?
The BBS02B and BBS01B don't have torque sensors in them from the factory, I don't think the BBSHD does either.. As far as cadence is concerned all your speed and odometer data is picked up by the magnet on the spoke that is read by the speed sensor so you still get speed and distance readings @@esayed
@ellaochomogo5154
45 seconds ago
I like how you get technical with your videos. They are very informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I have a question... I recently installed a brand-new BBS 02 on one of my bikes. Everything functions as it should, but I have noticed that when the motor is maxed out at maximum speed under throttle, there is a slight vibration when the motor is under load, but the vibration goes away when I slow down by a couple of MPH. There is no noise just a slight vibration and all else functions normally. Is this vibration normal? Could this be the chain resonating? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I grease the reduction gear with Black Moly NGLI 2 grease...
I choose small (30T Lekkie) chainrings so that the motor spins fast.. This does a couple things.. Keeps the motor cool, and extends range of battery. Paired with my Rohloff SpeedHub i am able to keep the motor from lugging down.. That will burn out the controller fast.. Listen to the motor and don't lug it down.. it should sound like it's spinning fast to work properly.
how do you pedal on a 30T chainring?
I'm a short guy. 5'7" so i ordered the square taper (bafang) 152mm crank arms.. This keep my knees from having to bend sharply on the return...I also put 1" spacers on the motor to set my feet further out for better alignment. I ordered a Lekkie narrow/wide 30T chainring. the smaller chain ring on the bafang keeps the motor spinning faster. And also gives more torque.
I really like the smaller chainring, . And much easier to pedal.@@Cyberbikesau
Nice one, glad you customised the kit to meet your needs, keep up!
@@rdkuless
Thanks, i have ridden over 12k miles since 2016... and i switched to the BBSHD about 4k miles ago and haven't looked back.. Riders who have big issues with these motors usually do not respect the limits of the equipment.. Maintaining chains, gears, tires is all important to make it last 12k miles.. Ride safe my friend.. and thanks for a great video.. @@Cyberbikesau
I have a BBSHD 1000w motor and the bottom bracket shafts moves about 5mm each way if I pull my pedal arms back and forth. Is this fixable ?
You have to be more specific, is it an axial or radial gap? Is it the pedal shaft alone or the entire motor moving around?
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks for your replay. Its just the pedal shaft, it doesn't move up and down, just in and out about 4 to 5mm if I grab the bottom of the pedal arm and push it in and out.
@@PINACI that’s a normal gap, all motors we have installed had that same gap so we consider it being a manufacturing standard
@@Cyberbikesau Strange, I've built two mid drive fat bikes and on one of them there isn't any play in the bottom bracket but on the other there is but it never used to be there when I first built it.
On a normal bike you can just tighten up the bottom bracket if it gets loose on the barings to stop the lateral movement.
@@PINACI BBSHD have always had some axial looseness, but if you want to have a go, remove the seal on the left side and remove the first counter nut, then tighten the inside nut (finger tight) then install the counter nut, add some grease to seal it and the add the rubber seal on top, ready to roll!
I did 2000 miles on my first motor before it failed through loads of salt water corrision, I had it sealed like you said. My second motor has done over 20,000 miles and the only two issues I had were harness failure and gear sensor failure so replaced though. The motor is working in fine order. Thankfully this winter has not been so bad so less water, salt water entering it.
Is it our fault that your motor failed, or is it your fault that your motor failed? We have sealed motors that are lasting over 30,000 km
Which motor do you have, the BBS02, or the BBSHD. Thanks
@@RobertAdams-ly5ku bbs02 750w, mostly using 150 to 300w and occasionally using 1000w for the really steep roads
@@manoz6194 Thanks for replying. I am looking to buy a BBS02, but was unsure about it's reliability, but now after reading about your experience, I think I'll go ahead and buy one, from looking at the power level you mostly use, it seems like you are getting a good workout. This is what I want to do, as I still want to be able to get fit, and get a workout, I've seen one guide on programming the BBS02, saying to set the assist levels, 1 to 9, in 10% increments, and set the speed in each level to 100%, not sure if this is the best way to set up the motor, but I will try it, and see. Thanks again
@@manoz6194 Thanks Mano, it seems like the best way to set up the motor so that I can do some of the work, as well. I don't want to be riding along, and be ghost pedaling, like most seem to want to do, I need to get fit after being off a bike for a long time.
Thanks for the great video.
Is the damage from over-torquing the motor shaft instant? The "second time" tightening that nut I may have exceeded the spec by a lot. Other than loosening the nut to 80N-m is there anything I should be watching out for? Its a 750W BBS02 with only about 200km so far.
Regards, Randy
Yes and yes pay attention to the bearings that are inside housing, the roller bearing gets damaged by over tightening the nut that holds the motor to the bottom bracket
This is an excellent video! Much appreciated.
You're very welcome!
wow excellent instructional video, ok my issue i was out riding last night distance 17.5 miles average speed 20.4mph five miles from home i noticed rubbing rattling sound from the motor, like a dry chain on sprockets type sound, l think it sounds like pinion bearing issue although the motor has only travelled 120 miles since new, i set off in pedal assist 4/5 on fourth from smallest rear sprocket on 8 speed cassette, i change up a gear to gain speed and next i then up the pedal assist next number and so on until i am in power assist 9 and the smallest rear sprocket which results in top speed with some effort if pedalling gets too hard i drop pedal assist and the gear ratios for easier pedalling, am i doing this right or wrong, thanks again for this great video..
Let's be positive; you most likely have something rubbing on the mudguards, or the drive train is not properly tuned. However, you will break the motor if you continue to take off on the cassette's 5th gear (mid-ratio). Think of your bike being a manual stick car. Would you take off on the 3rd gear (mid-ratio) consecutively? No, you wouldn't. Why are you gonna do that to your bike?
The power assist is an accelerator. If the cassette is engaged in high gear, one can still stall the motor on 4/5 of assist.
I recommend watching these two videos to deepen your knowledge of middrive ebikes
ruclips.net/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/JgbYsX7TG3Y/видео.html
And if you appreciate these comprehensive classes and the attention we give to every single comment, please give us a 5-star review:
g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
@@Cyberbikesau Wow, thanks for that speedy, in depth reply, no nothing is rubbing, i am an engineer and don't do bodge jobs fitting anything, ever, lol, properly tuned, do you mean gears set up correctly, yes they are spot on if you do refer to that, alas the rear mech is slightly bent but this does not alter the bikes gear changes, setting off in 5th gear on a bike, come on no one realistically sets off in first gear, the biggest rear sprocket on a bike, anyway i'll have a look at the videos, one more thing Bafang market leaders in e bike stuff and have been manufacturing them for years, yet it needs someone like Lekkie to come along to make the left hand side cnc crank arm to counter the offset drive side crank, lol, i'll come back to you on this but i would liken it to riding a horse and not a bike with the cranks both being an inch further out each side than is the natural riding position.
@@howardridge1153, the ticking noise could be the bent rear mech or hanger. If the jockey wheels are not aligned, the derailleur will make noise. I suggest aligning the derailleur and the hanger because the drive train "deforms" its shape when the motor is at full power, and those things can be seen when the bike is on the work stand. You asked my opinion, another engineer with 6 years in ebikes, and I am telling you, if you don't start using the big sprocket, you will break the motor. If you don't like shifting gears, go with a 38-40T chainring. I rarely use Lekkie parts other than their chainrings, but yeah they do quality parts. About Bafang, they are doing great. Millions of motors are sold yearly, so a company like Lekkie could enter the market. Cheers
@@Cyberbikesau lol ill replace rear mech but is is not the issue, as for using biggest rear sprocket ok but the chain alignment then is offensive on the eye it's so off centre to a nice straight chainline, as for front ring i am using the 40t front ring, thanks again, and "you're wrong mutha fucka", comment, lol.I just watched your gear change video and tbh im pretty much there, fyi, i do not have throttle, i prefer pedal assist only, so i use a gear sensor, which as you know cuts motor power, so setting off i get up to speed on power assist 4 approx then change gear on bikes gears, then get up to speed and up pedal assist to next level 5, then change gear, then up pedal assist to level 6 and so on, so effectively i'm nearly there, i just need to set off on pedal assist 1 and biggest rear sprocket and your work here is done, lol. excellent video again.
My problem with my Bafang motor is the fact that it twists inside the bottom bracket, I have used Lekki locking ring to hold the motor in, and I torque it to spec and it still twists in the bottom bracket just slightly. I also have 2 different types of stabilizing bars holding it in place, yet the motor still slightly twists in the bottom bracket when the motor is running.
@@TheBrainSquared have a look at our video how to install a bafang motor, you should get the best tips to ensure your motor won’t move anymore
Which grease do you recommend for the bbs02b primary and secondary gears? I read about the Mobilgrease SHC100, it's a Lithium based grease. Recommended as a replacement for the Mobil 28, which is hard to find in Europe.
That’s a good grease, I checked it’s data sheet:
Mobilith SHC 100 is an antiwear and extreme pressure grease primarily recommended for higher speed applications such as electric motors, where reduced friction, low wear and long service life are required. It is an NLGI 2 Grade / ISO VG 100 grease with a synthetic base fluid. Its operating temperature range is -40º C* to 150º C.
As a rule of thumb go with high temp grease from a decent brand, it can be with lithium or not, higher viscosity is key for this application
@@Cyberbikesau I think I will replace the original grease anyway, it's the petroleum based black grease in the secondary gear, it has a tendency of spread to the primary nylon gear and in the long run cause decay.
@@bengtmowitz5012 I don’t think so, otherwise bafang wouldn’t use that grease in their motors. Bafang has sold more than millions of motors so far
@@Cyberbikesau Yea, one would think so. But there are a many sources included RUclips that claims that the Black Moly grease is harmful for plastics. I don't know if it is both the bbs02 and the new bbs02b?
@@bengtmowitz5012 we are talking here about metal gears, what I understood for primary and secondary are the granny and pinion gears I mentioned in the video. For the nylon gear use a non lithium extra dense grease or a friction reduction paste
...very good tutor👍
Thank you Bob
This is gold, wish I had seen it before!
Thanks Paul, if you can support our channel by giving us a 5 star review we are immensely thankful! g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
Great video of the BB02 series motors.
The last (8th) issue is something I am dealing with now. Foolishly let someone else ride my trike and I believe the magnets behind the granny gear are either broken or disrupted.
I will know more once the motor is apart, but is there a replacement magnet available?
I do have a spare motor - I will install that one - then tear this one down for diagnosis/repair.
Thanks,
Russ
Yes there's spare magnets in the market but be aware that if the magnet has been broken its because there was excessive torque on the axle and granny gear, I suggest replacing the entire axle and gear together with the mag sensor.
Hello Phil,how is your new shop in Leichhardt.Thanks for fix all my bike in the last 4year bro.The best ebike Dr 👍
Hi Mike, thank you for writing me line here on RUclips, it would be nice to see you again soon! The new shop is much better than the previous one, and the new factory bikes are great too!
That good to hear ! I will definitely come by the shop to get some brake pad ,the ones i got from you last time those pads very good for ebike 👍
Hi ....thank you for your good and very informatif video , how ever i have a question , since I've got a heart problem i really can't keep up with a good cadence while pedalling , so i install a small chainring 36T to prevent the controller and other parts inside get damage quickly, i like to go ride at mountain side with a lot of very steep hill , is it my set up for the chainring is correct ? And i also keep the Watt meter on the display at around 100 - 350 Watt .
Thank you a lot for your answer , best regard
Yes perfect, your ebike will last a long time 36T is great for your application, watch this video ruclips.net/video/jb3v5Y0Q2l0/видео.html to understand 300W high torque and 300W high speed, and keep shifting your gears at high revs. Cheers
I have been using my BBS02 for about 2 years now, I don't really travel far on it, Just going to shop and local journeys, The paint on the motor stated to come off showing the bare metal housing of the motor, So I sprayed some anti rust paint on it, It is still working well though, I have never used the programme wire, I bought one but I have left it default, I feel the BBS02 is enough for the little commuting I do on the E-bike, I am going to put another E-bike together in the Summer, From ground up an enduro or down hill, Probably an enduro though, A project you could say...
Still though doing the BBS02 build have saved me from all sorts of stress not having a license, I can just jump on the E-bike and get to where I needs pretty fast as you can use short cuts and parks, I hate the roads anyways, I feel there is way too many cars on the roads see, So I am glad I am not part of the mess you see on the roads, lol....
Great video as always! I just installed my Bbs02b 500w a month ago. Everything is going well, however I experienced a slight ticking noise when pedaling? I am just about to take it apart and change all the grease (primary & secondary gear) to Mobilgrease SHC100. What do you think about that?
Hi Bengt thanks for your feedback. If you haven’t ridden your bike in mud and adverse conditions, there’s no need to open the motor and grease it. I suggest doing it when the motor reaches 5000km. I would focus my attention on the drive train, you might have gears that are not matching properly with the chain or there’s a frozen chain link. Let me know how it goes. Cheers
@@Cyberbikesau No, the ticking noise is definitely coming from the motor. It's not disturbing in any way. Just a slight ticking, not all the time. Primarily when I start pedaling for a couple of minutes, then it disappears. That leads me to think that it is a greasing thing?
@@bengtmowitz5012 I think if it was greasing the motor would sound all the time but not intermittently
@@Cyberbikesau Okej I will replace the chain and the cassette and see how it goes.
@@bengtmowitz5012 before replacing it, try tunning the gears and checking for a frozen chain link. We don’t have a video about it, but because it could be a problem you’re facing, we will record a video about it
Thanks , I actually did learn something new. Basically, I need to buy new motor. And probably will be 5000watts
Dear Felipe, thanks for your video. Regarding your first problem, I covered the gaskets you showed with silicone and then painted them black. Since this was handmade, it does not look good, but I'm almost sure that water will not go in from there. (I cannot upload the pictures here). Is it common for the water to go inside the motor through the bearings? Of course, I'm not riding in the river. Now, regarding the motor effort that you referred to later, my granny has 36 teeth. Would you suggest a smaller front ring? BTW, my cassette is 11-36T. Thank you and please keep on with the good work. My Bafang is 36V 500W.
that's okay your ebike will last a long time with a 36T chainring
Is the BBSHD a stronger build?
awesome video. also nice mullet
Thank you, all the best my friend, and keep the mullet alive!🙃
Nice video
Thanks
Does using throttle often wear out mid-drive more than pedaling? Or would it be okay if we are in the right gear? I plan to use throttle to start rolling then pedal
You have to throttle on the right gear, and on the standard Bafang controller settings the throttle is stronger than the pedal assist so yes, considering that throttle and PAS are on the right gear, the throttle will wear out the motor more than the pedal assist, but hey, do you want power or not =)
@@Cyberbikesau I guess everything has a trade off haha. Thanks for the reply and great video btw
@@dowblab @dowblab Yeah that's it! Thanks, you're welcome, talk to you in the next video =)
Thank you so much for this video. You save a lot of BBS :D
A good advice and instructions of yours to avoid problems on the bafang mid drive motor. Sir just asking, how did you know a 1000w bafang mid drive motor if it is tampered or not? Thanks sir.
Hi, thanks, what do you mean by tampered? If the motor has been opened and modified prior to your purchase?
@@Cyberbikesau exactly sir.
@@rodolfobaliga7577 check the bolts because when tightening them it will mark their heads. Inside the motor you can look for the white glue that keeps the wires together, if the glue has tears on its surface the motor has been opened and components replaced.
Thanks very helpful video.
Glad it was helpful Dennis, if you can help our channel please gift us with a 5 star review g.page/r/CX0AoVbmxOSwEBM/review
All the best
I have a bike with a bafang motor and display on it but the speed is limited and I can't change the setting (according to the manual at least) it has the triangular type of plug so I can't use a phone to reprogram it either. If I get a compatible display and change out the one I have now, will it change the programming for the speed limit? Or would I need a new control unit?
Thank you very much. That was a very informative video
Good mechanical intel ,thanks.No power by throttle or pedal.I have a red ! on the controller next to the batt.indicator.I disconnected the Brake and still get this alert...any trouble shooting ideas -1000 w.hd Bafang?
new controller, check if the motor halls are ok. Also, look for the error number, that helps to diagnose the problems
Good video I just built a bike with the BBSHD works great !
Awesome, keep riding!
For problem #2 - What is the same if the socket which goes on the end of the torque wrench please? And what is the actual name of that nut? Thank you
Bafang locking nut and bafang tool kit tool
a lot of good information thank you
Very welcome
Great Video -- Very Informative on the Bafang Motor! Do you recommend every like 2500K to open and clean the motor internal gears and add synthetic grease?
every 5 to 10k km, it depends on the use
Hi, tnx for the video, I have a BBSHD and I have the magnetic disk problem but I am not able to remove the disk from the crankshaft, there are two rings with a little notch but i can't remove. What do you suggest me? And where i can find the compass for KM5 ring? TNX
buy something like this www.aliexpress.com/item/32979786386.html?spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.2.4aebDtyKDtyK87&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21AUD%21AU%24%202.93%21AU%24%201.79%21%21%21%21%21%402103245416819766136752944eff23%2166745174678%21btf&_t=pvid:703eee36-7704-4b0b-8336-f8151c03a6e7&afTraceInfo=32979786386__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1681976614
remove that ring and get going, you've had a problem on the disc because of excessive torque on the pedal axle, it's because youre riding with a heavy high speed gear being at low speeds, shift 2 gears down and you will be on the correct gear
Could you do a video on lubrcation of the Bafang BBS02 and HD a,s I see alot of conflicting videos on lubing your mid drive gears. Also what grease is best and non damaging to the nylon gears.
Thanks Felipe...
that a great suggestion, we will look after doing a similar video
Hi Thanks for information, my bafang bbso2 locked the crank arms so it just kept pedaling and wouldn't free-wheeling I was out on a ride so I just forced it to not turn by standing up on both pedals, then it did free-wheeling but then when I went to pedal again there was nothing it would just pedal so I used the Thumb throttle. Do you have any ideas what I have done, I have not pulled it apart yet. But interesting to to hear what you would think it is.
excessive torque when tightening the nut that attached the motor to the frame, consequently you broke the needle bearings inside of the pedal axle, replace the needle bearings and the cranks will spin again
I have a BBSHD mounted on my SunSeeker trike. The other day I heard grinding sounds in the motor. Then the pedals locked up. The motor still works via the throttle and that got me home. I have about 2000 miles on the trike. Any idea what the problem is?
The roller bearing responsible for supporting the pedal axle has been damaged. Why? Overtorque when tightening the motor to the trike frame. On the left side of the motor, where the nut and mount are, remove the gasket that's on the shaft and remove the special nuts that are threaded to the shaft and you will be able to slide the axle of the bearings and replace that damaged bearing. Good luck with your repair.
You don't need to unmount the motor from the trike frame, you can maintain the motor attached to the frame and all wires to do this repair.
@@frcr90 If the housing has been distorted, will that not shorten the life of the new bearing?
@@Jeff20657 it shorten the life of the old bearing. Press (don’t hammer) a new bearing in. If you think you deformed the housing too much, buy a new motor, but I don’t think that’s the case. What I can say from my experience is that that bearing breaks by over tightening the motor to the frame or corrosion. You mentioned 2000miles, how many months to cover that distance?
@@frcr90 2 Years. How about a video showing how to do this repair?
Can I use Lucasoil Red N Tacky on the metal gears of a BBS02B?
not sure, we havent used it yet to recommend it
@@Cyberbikesau How about Mobilith SHC100?
So the conclusions of prolong the life span of mid drive kit is to shift gears whenever we come to a stop,and starts moving with lower gears just like how we ride motorcycles? Because im about to invest on this kit to my mtb and after watching this really got me worried .
Thank you for a very informative video. When I pedal my BBS01 with a flat battery, the pedals turn the motor, making it very hard work is there a clutch which may be broken please?...thank you
The motor has a clutch inside, when pedalling the motor doesn’t turn, only the chainring turns. It’s normal to have a small resistance when pedalling and the motor is not on. If you pedal forwards when the motor is off and the lights turn on, there’s a problem in the clutch otherwise you’re just facing the resistance of the bearings and clutch
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks for that, super quick reply.
without the motor on, it is virtually impossible to pedal, especially up hill, so I guess there is a clutch problem? Which lights are you referring to please? Thank you
It's hard work because you have added another 7-10 kg to an analogue bikes weight with the motor and battery added on.
Mine was buzzing like it was running out of batteries and now doesn't start with throttle or pedal assist. I think it's a bad connection but i hope the controller isn't damaged by the intermittent power. I was having to run it off a speaker wire with banana plugs in the battery as i need a new battery mount cable.
The motor connection bottom bracket is annoying because it comes loose as there is about half a tonne of force trying to turn it at full power. My motor is now held up with a bungee. Otherwise it rises up and dents the frame under power. I might need a rubber washer between it and the bottom bracket.
Hey man. My bbshd has stopped spinning. Most of the time I've been in the right gears. In level 4 of pedal assist. Any time in wrong gear would've been minimal and accidental. I still see the display. But the throttle doesn't give anything or pedal assist. Before this I did hear the throttle make a high pitched sound and a watt reading would show... But with no spinning. I did momentarily see an error message 09. But that has since gone. I've opened the controller and made sure all phase wires are connected but this hasn't fixed the issue. I've changed wiring harness and it hasn't fixed it. What does this problem sound like?
or controller problem or motor hall sensor problems. If you have ridden the ebike always taking off on the first gear and riding at the correct gear for the speed you're travelling (forget PAS levels) you have been victim of water damage, otherwise I cant see these motors failing from nowhere
so what will you recommend to avoid those 8 problems? the bafang mid drive motor parts are available and where to purchase? thanks for giving us tips bro. more power.
shift gears, start on the 1st gear of the cassette and as the speed increases shift gears up. Before you stop the bike, bring the gears back to 1st gear
Excellent !
Thanks John
@@Cyberbikesau I did not expect to find so many tips to preserve the engine.
Hello! Thanks for the video, it’s great! I have a Lasher Handbike which change my life! But now I have two problems: 1) the assistance it’s not turning in right away, I have to pedal backwards a bit so starts and 2) the engine lost a lot of power. What do you think it’s happening? Thanks for your help!
Broken motor, broken PAS magnet disc, riding on the wrong gear
@@Cyberbikesau Thanks! Can it be fix? The broken ring magnet for both problems?
@@sebastiancarrasco2987 Yes man, watch our playlist ruclips.net/video/ezoGRDK6fdQ/видео.html you will find great content
@@Cyberbikesau thanks a lot!! 👍🏻👍🏻🤘🏼🤘🏼♿️👏🏼
@@Cyberbikesau Hello! Sorry its me again…. There is not obvious damage on the PAS magnet disc or sensor…. Could we have a WhatsApp call please 🙏🏻? I can pay for your advice!! Thanks a lot!!
Most of the gearshift errors are from using too small/ low of a gear and applying too much force/heat. Are their issues from too high/large of a gear and wide open throttle?
thank you for this video. amazing.. my torque wrench only has up to 60 nm.. anyway.. so far my motor is holding up with lekkie one nut.
knock knock.. who's there.. 4:46 ;) amazing video
Great to hear!
I find that the power of my Bafang 500w is so great that I have to change up gears 2 or 3 at a time to keep up with the acceleration and spend most of my riding time in top gear averaging 35 kph for flat cruising. I guess that is exactly the way to wear out my gears? What if I could fit a CVT in lieu of derailleurs? Would that help keep my motor in good shape?
Hi Keith, the secret to have a bafang motor that lives for a long time is to make it spin fast. You could have a CVT which is an improvement in comparison to derailleurs, but if you don’t tune the CVT or don’t shift gears on the derailleur to allow your motor to spin fast you will damage the motor.