I've done this job so many times and you covered all the important points. When I saw how short the video was I thought there'd be no way you covered everything but you did a great job. No nonsense just the stuff that matters. Thank you!
Great video, to the point. One tip for everyone. There is a block coolant drain plug up behind the oil filter. You can see a little brass nipple sticking out of the plug. You loosen the brass nipple portion of the plug. The brass nipple can have hose connected so you can cleanly drain almost a gallon of additional coolant from the engine block and avoid the mess of getting coolant all over when pulling the water pump.
Been watching your revivals and road trips for years now, I had no idea this existed until I went searching for Honda Pilot timing belt replacement on YT. Nice to have a familiar face helping me out with my wife's timing belt rather than an internet rando. One thing I did not anticipate from your video was the crank bolt being so stubborn. I broke a 1/2" drive extension and a ratchet before finally buying a 1500 ft-lb 3/4" impact wrench and a map gas torch to finally break it loose.
Great video, no-nonsense as advertised. Did my 2010 Pilot in about 10hrs, about 5 of which were spent removing the crank bolt. For anyone else having issues, having a heavy duty impact socket makes the difference, as it came out easily after switching from a regular light duty 19mm socket (even with a weak 400ft/lb impact gun)
Glad to hear the video was helpful. Yes those crank-bolts can be pretty stubborn. If you look in the description, I put a link in for that large socket. That definitely makes a big difference and sounds like you already got yourself one. I always just use my 3/4 inch Ingersoll Rand IR 261 and that takes it right off with a standard socket.
Allen Pierce Like others who commented, your video is excellent. I'm a retired Ford Tech, 38 years, but still do my own work. I appreciate the little comments about things you can do and things you have to do. Stacking and cleaning parts as they are removed covers a multitude of mistakes! My only suggestion is getting more sleep, especially as you grow older. Working with and around equipment calls for clarity of thought and action. Keep up the excellent work for all of us DIYers.
Thanks for the delightful comment and happy to hear this video can help out other techs as well. And yeah, totally agree that being well slept is very necessary with this kind of work. thanks and Merry Christmas!
just did my 2015. the tensioner on the serpentine belt is a little different. thanx for the video....I referenced it as I was doing the job. You covered everything and Made the job a piece of cake! I took my time and It took me 6hr. And it was my first time doing a 3.5L
Thanks, this was very helpful. Also I love how short the video is, but it still covers everything. Well done!! One thing I would add though: You don't need to remove the power steering pump. All you have to remove is the pulley. You can use a strap or a piece of wire, going through the "spokes" of the pulley and around the motor mount, to keep the pulley from spinning. I was able to get an impact wrench on it. Much easier than removing the whole steering pump and reservoir.
This is why I've been buying Honda's for 20 years. When you've done this several times it becomes easy peezy. I just came here to see if it was different from my J32. They are virtually identical.
HANDS Down, this is the BEST Video to explain the installation on a V6 Honda. Be SURE you use a HUGE Torque IMPACT wrench to take the 19mm Harmonic Balancer bolt... ANYThing less and you will be working against yourself and FRUSTRATED!
Just completed the job on my '13. Thanks for the great video. It took some of the anxiety out of the work. The only difference was that my '13 didn't have the hydraulic damper on the serpentine belt tensioner. I was looking for it for a minute!
This is a nice video. As a professional mechanic I'd like to offer a couple points.1st, this will take at least 4-6 hours for most people. My 13 Pilot is a 4x4 with big tires. Therefpre, 2nd, I suggest that you have a step stool. 3rd, obviously a lift would be very helpful. 4th, if you don't have an impact wrench you can simply put your wrench on the crank bolt, move it to the rear near the lower control arm and then just touch the key to activate the starter. The engine will pop it off in 1 second. 5th, re the tensioner at 11:39 - I strongly suggest that you put the new tensioner in a vice or C clamp, relieve the pressure on the piston and remove the release pin and lube it. I didn't do that and spent 20 minutes trying to pull out the pin :-( 6th, unless you are reusing the tensioner I don't think there is a need to release the pressure, just remove or cut the belt off. 7th be sure to place the belt on the crank first, then around a pulley. Now, be sure to pull the belt as tight as possible as you place it on the rear cam sprocket., 8th, to the engineers at Honda, thanks SO much for putting the A/C line RIGHT in the way. That was very Ford of you. I'm not trying to be a know-it-all, just want to help as this video was very helpful to me and I like how he doesn't blab blab blab like some video makers. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! True to your name “no nonsense”, I wish there were more videos like this. Keep making your videos, your are helping a lot of people. The process of slipping the belt on is rather finicky, if possible can you make a separate more detailed video of how you slip those belts on, I think it would help a lot of people. Again, your videos are top quality, please make more!
Happy to hear you found the video helpful and thanks so much for the feedback. I have found that some belt manufacturers are slightly tighter to get on than others. The method I use when I have a real stubborn one is to loosen one or two of the idler pulleys or even the tensioner bolt. You loosen a couple turns and it allows the pulley to lean over a touch. Hope that helps and thanks again
Thats why we charge what we do....i always hate it when customers would ask me why i charge soo much to replace rear main seal on fwd vehicle or a 4x4 vehicle. My answer is "turn to RUclips" for your answer. Nxt day they come back all apologetic. Then i tell them "price remains the same, take it or leave it".
Yep and mainly because of the liability. Sure maybe I could do it but it's not worth risking toasting my engine. At least a shop might be able to be held liable if they do it wrong.
Javier Paredes clearly you have not had shops do much work for you! At least in my area if they broke it they would just make up something like “well we got into it and the headgaskets and muffler bearings were shot!”
@@joeholland428 haha yeah I can totally see that. Although I went to my local mechanic to have them install a high pressure power steering hose and while they were doing that they broke my rack and pinion somehow. They replaced it with a new one and didn't charge me for the labor so I still came out only paying $150 for the labor for the hose install. I even offered to pay for some of the labor because I felt bad and they declined.
Very nicely done and gave me confidence to do my own replacement water pump and timing belt. Good audio and good video, really captures the required steps for doing this job.
Awesome to hear you going to tackle the job yourself. Thank you for your comment and feedback, really appreciate it! Let me know how you make out and good luck
great video for doing this job. all your extra little tips are great to hear for people who have not done this job. when watching you sound like me helping one of my friends with a car repair that i already know how to do. i have done timing belts on a 1987 camry before. i had belt before one tooth off and another friend showed me if you turn engine backwards it jumped one tooth that i needed. thats why turning it counterclockwise will mess you up. takes me 4 times as long as you to do it first time but it's done right after its all over.just need to be patient and double check everything like you said.
About to do my Wife's 11 pilot timing belt today, words cannot describe how much I'll prefer following your video for the procedure instead of ALLDATA. Not looking forward to the crank bolt. I've heard of people having to use a breaker bar and turning the starter to get that thing off.
Excellent video My Friend. Thanks a bunch for all the great, time saving pointers. This job estimate from a shop is $1350. Holy Smokes! Thanks to you, I feel confident I can pull this off.
Man that crank bolt was tough to remove! Finally got the impact socket with super thick walls and a driver with 1050 ft lbs and she popped right off. Nothing else worked including a 4' breaker bar. We just got back from a 400 mile trip and she's purrin' like a kitten. Thanks so much for the help!!
I can’t thank you enough! Just finished the job and all is good thanks to your perfect breakdown. I never had the confidence to do timing belts, and I had a tough time but referencing your videos was the gold ticket. Had to use lock a breaker bar and pop to the motor once to break the crank bolt because I didn’t have the bad to the bone impact that you do. Quick hit and it broke loose.
Top notch video man.. 😎 only thing i would add is the water pump seal depending on the brand i find petroleum jelly or preferably silicon grease works well for longevity
Didn't mention the top two 14mm I believe they were. On the top of the engine mount/bracket covering the water pump. Damn the crank bolt tonight not even my Milwaukee 1/2 impact could take off... Had to put the ecu back in n use the starter. I'd also bring up that if you try to put the engine to TDC the crank must spin 2x per 1 rotation of the cams. So nobody tries to turn the cams manually if they face down. As this could cause engine damage (bent valve n damaged pistons). I'd add that in with your mention of a "interference engine ". Awesome video!
Thanks for the very descriptive video. My wife's Odyssey is making a terrible noise and from your previous video, you found a bad timing belt tensioner. This weekend I'll be diving into this project along with your video. Glad we have our oldie but goodie 97 Accord as a backup car so I can take my time changing the timing belt along with the kit.
Eldiego awesome man! Glad to hear you're going to tackle it yourself! Let me know how you end up making out. I'm also going to put a link in the description on this video for the components that I used in case you would like to purchase them. I was meaning to do it, I just haven't got around to it. Thanks again for the feedback
Eldiego awesome man! Glad to hear you're going to tackle it yourself! Let me know how you end up making out. I'm also going to put a link in the description on this video for the components that I used in case you would like to purchase them. I was meaning to do it, I just haven't got around to it. Thanks again for the feedback
Got it done! Turned out to be a bad timing belt tensioner. Now she's purring like a kitten. Big plus, the wife is happy too. Once again, thanks for your videos.
Eldiego awesome to hear man! So glad the video helped you out and you got it taken care of. thank you for letting me know, as people like you are what keeps me motivated.
Looking at buying a 2015 Pilot with 120K miles. This unfortunately would need to be the first job I would have to do. This is a great video with lots of extra details. Even though I have replaced a number OHC belts and chains, I am not sure I want to get into this on a new to me vehicle. I will continue to look for a Toyota Highlander (more expensive) which uses a chain. A timing belt and an interference engine is a bad idea.
Well done! Thank you for this great video. I’m researching as much as possible before I do this job on my 2013 mdx. Your video is a huge help. Thank you!
Had to bump start to get the crank bolt out, my big snap on impact ( battery and air ) wouldn’t budge it. Even bought the super 19 mm socket they sell to do it. 2011 Honda pilot with 210,000 miles and this was the first time the timing belt had been changed. It looked scary definitely a ticking time bomb!
Can you elaborate exactly what u mean by "scary" please lol mine has 192k and it's also the original. I have all the parts already, even the special socket. But I'm just staring at it. Nervous as hell, and I've done my own repairs all my life on my vehicles. This one scares me, idk why either. Did ur belt look bad? Any pictures?
Eric Kimmy i did mine a couple years ago for the first time and it was not a hard job. It is due again and i wont hesitate doing it in a few months when it warms up a bit. Just plan a full day and take your time. Hardest part for me was getting that crank bolt broke loose, look on youtube. I found a video where a guy working outside on plywood in flip flops did it. He disabled the ignition by pulling the plug coils then put the right socket with a breaker bar on the crank bolt and got in and bumped the starter. Broke loose first wack. The breaker bar swings around and hits a cross member. The sudden stop breaks the bolt loose. Anyway don’t wait too long or the belt will break then you will end up having to rebuild the engine all the way.
@@joeholland428 yeah I'm going to have to, someone told me 200 and that's a steal as all the other shops especially the dealership wants 800-1000. I have a kit I bought but it's cheesy. So I bought the real Honda belt and I was just going to change the belt not pump. Or just get a Honda pump and keep original pullies. Nobody recommends to use a cheap pump from Amazon. I'm pissed it doesn't have that little symbol the after market ones have on the corner of the pump casting. So it's like the knock off of the knock off. Idk what to do with it if I can't use it. Should I try it? They say if it fails (usually after 50k miles) you won't know until it's too late bc the belt keeps turning until it shreds itself off to death. Either way I'm nervous, but I drive this car with 198k on it 7-8 hrs a day delivering pizza. It's an amazing car, very well built and I am very comfortable the entire shift. So I want to keep it going. I've done everything I could including tune up on the tranny. Now all that's left is this job
Eric Kimmy i am not a fan of knock off parts on something so critical and deep in the engine. Cheaper to do this job once with decent parts. My last kit cam off amazon. “Aisin TKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump”. It has made just over 110,000 miles of driving in sub arctic conditions of down to -55f with no problems yet. I will buy that kit again when i swap it out again when it warms up. For $195 it has all the right parts. Some of the reviews say it is factory parts. I would not skimp by trying to not change idlers and tensioners. The whole kit is cheaper than one break down
victor giraud thanks! I really appreciate your feedback. I know I run through it a little bit quick, but for anybody who has worked on cars before this video should work like a charm. glad to hear it helped you out
Note: The crank Bolt can be extremely stubborn to remove on these Hondas. The heavy duty Honda crank-bolt socket listed down below helps out dramatically. I personally use the IR 261 to remove them as seen in this video: ruclips.net/video/m054LFfJm6Q/видео.html *HONDA CRANK SOCKET: amzn.to/2QGOQn5
I love how you have distilled everything to the bare essence. No-Nonsense indeed (A little joke/pun/one-liner here/there is always welcome) btw, Am I hearing Philly or South Jersey sounds..? Thank you very much from North Jersey!
Awesome video 🤘 love the details....ill be heading to my shop today to do my wife's car..u definitely made my life easier ..thanks dude!! p.s hate freebie jobs 😅
I was going good till I got to the crank bolt ...someone tighten it so tight that I had to go buy the tool and it cracked the casting on in one off the edges 😬 and one off the motor mount bolts started binding ..good times! it ended being 4hours 😫for the complete job ...beer and shower time !!😁
Yeah those Honda crank bolts can be real stubborn! I use my Ingersoll rand 261 3/4-in gun on them and works great. Glad to hear you knocked it out though!
FANTASTIC video. Thank you! This will be one of my references for doing the timing belt/H2O job on our Odyssey. (I have used that Lisle funnel before and it works great).
I really appreciate your video, helped me a lot. One question though, many say you should replace both of the pulley bolts. In your video you reused them. Have you ever heard of any issues with them snapping in the block? Thanks again for the help!
Marvelous to hear you found the video helpful. Yes I have also read that you're supposed to replace the pulley bolts, but now I've never replaced one and have never had or seen an issue. And I've done at least 30 or more of these.
Where are you located? You sound like you're from South/Central Jersey. After seeing how this video I'd love to have you do the belt in my wife's 2014 Pilot. Very thorough and detail oriented. Great vid
Excellent video and I appreciate the no nonsense instruction and video. What are your thoughts on also replacing the two camshaft and crankshaft oil seals and the serpentine belt while replacing the timing belt?
Definitely recommend replacing the serpentine belt at the same time and check the condition of the serpentine belt tensioner. Always a good idea to replace the camshaft and crank seals, but if they're not leaking I usually don't mess with them. I rarely see them leak. Even at 250k
Thank you, very much appreciate the instructions and sharing your experience and knowledge. My 2014 Ridgeline has 98k on it so I am gathering information and how-to now so I am prepared to do this in the next 5 to 10k miles. Your video is definitely the best I have found on RUclips. I subscribed to your channel and sent it to a few buddies of mine. Thanks again!
Hi, I understand the use of the J Bolt to release the tension on the T-Belt and be able to take it off. But in Honda service manual they use it again when installing the new tensioner and new t-belt, then they pull the pin and then unscrew the j-bolt. What would they be achieving with that as I saw you unscrewing the jbolt then pulling the pin?
That's a good question. Honestly I'm sure it doesn't matter which way you do it. Sometimes that pain can be a little bit tough to get out of there with the tension on it though so maybe that's why. Plus if you need to compress the tensioner a little bit more than usual then maybe you can do that with the J bolt and taking the pin out when installing
Very clear and well explained video I pay a good attention to it,, and my questions is I just bought a 2010 Acura MDX form and certified acura dealer with 63.000 miles on it two owners haves leased the vehicle and back to the dealership.. after how many miles should I change the timing belts.??
Thanks. Honestly I don't get involved with the pricing too much. And it's really going to vary on your region and what type of shop you go to. Best thing to do is get three quotes
Quick question for you. I pulled my crankshaft pulley off, then pulled the lower TB cover off. The TB Idler pulley had the ball bearings falling out and was completely shot... when I turned the crank to line up the marks, the front cam mark was off about one tooth, and the rear cam was off by about 4-5 teeth. Can I just remove the TB, manually turn the cams the little bit needed to line up, then reinstall all the pulleys and belt again? The car was running fine, but I think the cam pulleys slipped a few teeth when the idler pulley let go.
You said the crank tensioner is if you're using hand tools but.. You may want to note torquing the crank requires using this tool too.. Even if you're using air tools to remove things...
KornShaDoW097 good point. I've added it to the description. Thanks. Let me know how you make out with doing the job. I've done them in my driveway many times. You should be okay. And also, if you don't have the crankshaft holding tool you can always put a little Loctite on the boat and then just as if it down with a 1/2 inch impact gun. There are mechanics at my work that I've seen use this method for 10 plus years and never have an issue. Definitely not the preferred method though
Great Video, you clearly have done this before. I'm a bit nervous but feel I can do it. A ton of little steps but easy to follow. Question I have is, how did you turn the engine twice? I'm assuming it was right after you installed the belt and before you put the remaining covers on?
You got this no problem. It will definitely take you long and you'll probably hit a few obstacles but yeah you're right it's just a bunch of little easy steps. To turn the engine I usually just put the crank bolt back in. Or yes if you want to double-check your timing marks on the bottom to be 100% you can also put the lower cover and pulley on
Biggest bear of this job is getting the crank pulley off to begin with. Without proper tools or a strong enough impact gun it can be very hard. There are several methods you can use though. One of them even uses the start of motor. If you look up some videos You'll see several methods. Thanks for your comment and good luck with the job. Let me know how you make out. There are links see most of what I used in this video in the description
So I've officially bought me the M18 milwaukee high impact wrench and the "honda special tool" with 19mm honda socket..im feeling better already. Some guy on a video said not to replace the pulley seals (round plastic pieces) but why wouldn't I if they're new and part of the Dayco kit. I also ended up getting the dayco water pump and continental serpentine belt. And LASTLY, I got a new crankshaft screw from honda. Just going to put a new one in. Any particular coolant to add when a new pump is installed?
@@herbermorales7468 when you talk about the police eels are you referring to the cam and crank seals? Definitely a good idea to replace them but you don't have to by any means. They're usually good for 250000 miles or more before they start leaking. However if you're not familiar with replacing those seals it's possible to cause damage when removing them. An awesome. I also have Milwaukee M18. But I'm not sure it will be able to take that bolt off.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow well I bought the harmonic balance 19mm and the crankshaft crank pulley wrench holder. Ill have a long torque wrench just in case..since im there and replacing the serpentine belt should I do the pulleys also for that belt? This will be the first serpentine replaced on this vehicle. (99k miles)
If you set them in the proper location before removing a belt they shouldn't really move. But yes locking the sprockets in position together is always a good idea. Just make sure to remove whatever tool you use. Stuffing a paper towel in between them works well on a lot of engines as well
Thanks for video ,I finally did mine when I came back from Florida last June. Btw, Do you have a video or suggestion on how to replace rear engine mount of 2004 odyssey? Ty
Great to hear the video helped you out. No I don't have a video on the rear motor mount. I've done them before... they're just a little tight to get in there. Usually have to drop the subframe down some if I remember correctly as well
Thanks for the great video. Any tips for cleaning the coolant off the engine block after removing the water pump? Is it just a matter of thoroughly wiping it off with a rag?
Sorry, I just saw your comment now. Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad the video helped out. I used a can of brake clean to spray it down and then blew it off with compressed air
I couldn't get the belt on so I rotated the exhaust cam causing it to snap forward about 40 teeth. Now it won't stay at TDC without holding a wrench to it. How can i get it to stay put again?
I'm not sure I understand the question. But if you put the exhaust cam sprocket at the proper timed position it should stay. If not you can use a cam holder tool or wedge something between the cams like a paper towel.
Why do u use a diffrent name brand for the water pump? I looked up deyco kits and they come with a water pump should i still buy the GMB water pump? And lose the one that cones with deyco
This is an older video so I'm not sure without going back to see the video. But yeah usually the dayco kits actually include a GMB pump. At least the last few ones I've used have
Timing belt in a V6... Why?!? The more I look at this, the more I think that Honda wanted their retailers to make a little extra money for each of their sold cars, and get them in a garage after an 100K miles... This is, like, 2 to 3 hours work, at $100/hour, plus the OEM parts, it gets over $1000 for a belt that should have been a chain... Thanks for the video.
Could be worse. Better than a poorly designed timing chain system. My friends Mercedes already has broken timing chain guides and ride length and it's only got forty thousand miles on it. I do prefer timing chains myself as well, but only if they're a proven design. And no problem! Thanks for commenting
Thanks for this great video brother. I heard on an amazon review there is a bolt that some mechanics at dealerships like to replace during the timing belt replacement? Are they just spouting nonsense?
NoNonsenseKnowHow I think they were referring to the timing belt tensioner bolt or crank pulley having a tendency to break after a while and should be replaced with the belt. I’m not sure though. Thank you for trying to help!
In 2006-2008 Honda Pilot Service Manual: " 15. Remove the idler pulley bolt(A) and idler pulley(B), then remove the timing belt. Discard the the idler pulley bolt."
Want to do this job on my 2010 Pilot, just curious about roughly how long the job takes, it seems like a really big job, but I'd still prefer to do it myself than bring it to the dealer.
That's great you're thinking of tackling the job yourself and I highly encourage you to. Just take it real slow and triple check all your work. I can do one of these timing belt water pumps in about two to three hours. But it could take you as long as 10 hours depending on what kind of things you run into. Everybody works at a different pace. Good luck on it and let me know how you make out! Keep in mind that Honda crank bolt is probably the toughest part of this job if you don't have the proper tools
Is that water pump better than the Dayco water pump? Is it true that they're manufacturing them for Dayco? I noticed you promote Dayco kit but your links are for the gates timing/ serpentine belt. Sorry last question, I read that this is a good time to replace the oil pump seals?
Honestly, all of these pumps are made in China now. GMB makes a pretty good pump and actually make the pumps for most of these kits. The best pump you can get with the factory OEM from the dealer though. I probably plugged in the link to Gates because Dayco was not available or too expensive on Amazon at the time.
Quick update...so I officially completed this work on my 2015 honda pilot. I replaced the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, pulleys, and the motor mount. I took me about a day and a half to complete but I'm ok with this since this was my first time actually doing major work on our car. I did run into a few issues which ill comment on the chat to all. Bottom line, no way I would have been successful if I hadn't researched and memorized your video it would have been a lot more intimidating. I wanted to thank you for the coaching and mentoring.
@@herbermorales7468 that's great to hear that you were able to knock it out yourself. Not only did you save a ton of money, you've increased your skill set dramatically! Also amazing to hear that the video helped give you confidence to tackle the job. Thanks so much for your comment and feedback
I got this job on a 09 tomorrow morning.. In a shop I wouldn't mind... But I gotta do this crap mobile, probably in a parking lot... I may pass on it...
I've done this job so many times and you covered all the important points. When I saw how short the video was I thought there'd be no way you covered everything but you did a great job. No nonsense just the stuff that matters. Thank you!
Thanks Eric I really appreciate the feedback!
Great video, to the point. One tip for everyone. There is a block coolant drain plug up behind the oil filter. You can see a little brass nipple sticking out of the plug. You loosen the brass nipple portion of the plug. The brass nipple can have hose connected so you can cleanly drain almost a gallon of additional coolant from the engine block and avoid the mess of getting coolant all over when pulling the water pump.
For four hours of sleep this guy is on point. Thank you for the video bro. You saved me $850.
Been watching your revivals and road trips for years now, I had no idea this existed until I went searching for Honda Pilot timing belt replacement on YT. Nice to have a familiar face helping me out with my wife's timing belt rather than an internet rando. One thing I did not anticipate from your video was the crank bolt being so stubborn. I broke a 1/2" drive extension and a ratchet before finally buying a 1500 ft-lb 3/4" impact wrench and a map gas torch to finally break it loose.
Great video, no-nonsense as advertised. Did my 2010 Pilot in about 10hrs, about 5 of which were spent removing the crank bolt. For anyone else having issues, having a heavy duty impact socket makes the difference, as it came out easily after switching from a regular light duty 19mm socket (even with a weak 400ft/lb impact gun)
Glad to hear the video was helpful. Yes those crank-bolts can be pretty stubborn. If you look in the description, I put a link in for that large socket. That definitely makes a big difference and sounds like you already got yourself one. I always just use my 3/4 inch Ingersoll Rand IR 261 and that takes it right off with a standard socket.
Allen Pierce
Like others who commented, your video is excellent. I'm a retired Ford Tech, 38 years, but still do my own work. I appreciate the little comments about things you can do and things you have to do. Stacking and cleaning parts as they are removed covers a multitude of mistakes! My only suggestion is getting more sleep, especially as you grow older. Working with and around equipment calls for clarity of thought and action. Keep up the excellent work for all of us DIYers.
Thanks for the delightful comment and happy to hear this video can help out other techs as well. And yeah, totally agree that being well slept is very necessary with this kind of work. thanks and Merry Christmas!
just did my 2015. the tensioner on the serpentine belt is a little different. thanx for the video....I referenced it as I was doing the job. You covered everything and Made the job a piece of cake! I took my time and It took me 6hr. And it was my first time doing a 3.5L
Thanks, this was very helpful. Also I love how short the video is, but it still covers everything. Well done!! One thing I would add though: You don't need to remove the power steering pump. All you have to remove is the pulley. You can use a strap or a piece of wire, going through the "spokes" of the pulley and around the motor mount, to keep the pulley from spinning. I was able to get an impact wrench on it. Much easier than removing the whole steering pump and reservoir.
This is why I've been buying Honda's for 20 years. When you've done this several times it becomes easy peezy. I just came here to see if it was different from my J32. They are virtually identical.
HANDS Down, this is the BEST Video to explain the installation on a V6 Honda.
Be SURE you use a HUGE Torque IMPACT wrench to take the 19mm Harmonic Balancer bolt... ANYThing less and you will be working against yourself and FRUSTRATED!
good video.,NO WASTED WORDS OR UNNECESSARY CRAP TO LISTEN TO. you look like you've done this job a few times.
Thanks for the comment and feedback! Yes I've done a few of these for sure
Just completed the job on my '13. Thanks for the great video. It took some of the anxiety out of the work. The only difference was that my '13 didn't have the hydraulic damper on the serpentine belt tensioner. I was looking for it for a minute!
Awesome man, glad to hear the video helped you out. What type of tensioner did you have?
It was just a standard one like most cars have. Nothing special on mine.
This is a nice video. As a professional mechanic I'd like to offer a couple points.1st, this will take at least 4-6 hours for most people. My 13 Pilot is a 4x4 with big tires. Therefpre, 2nd, I suggest that you have a step stool. 3rd, obviously a lift would be very helpful. 4th, if you don't have an impact wrench you can simply put your wrench on the crank bolt, move it to the rear near the lower control arm and then just touch the key to activate the starter. The engine will pop it off in 1 second. 5th, re the tensioner at 11:39 - I strongly suggest that you put the new tensioner in a vice or C clamp, relieve the pressure on the piston and remove the release pin and lube it. I didn't do that and spent 20 minutes trying to pull out the pin :-( 6th, unless you are reusing the tensioner I don't think there is a need to release the pressure, just remove or cut the belt off. 7th be sure to place the belt on the crank first, then around a pulley. Now, be sure to pull the belt as tight as possible as you place it on the rear cam sprocket., 8th, to the engineers at Honda, thanks SO much for putting the A/C line RIGHT in the way. That was very Ford of you.
I'm not trying to be a know-it-all, just want to help as this video was very helpful to me and I like how he doesn't blab blab blab like some video makers. Keep up the good work!
Those are some great tips there man! Thanks for contributing. I'm sure many will find this helpful
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Thanks. Keep up the good work.
@@scottmurray4689 will do! Greatly appreciate your input
You're wrong on one point. It would take the average DIYer a week to do this. lol
Thank you! True to your name “no nonsense”, I wish there were more videos like this. Keep making your videos, your are helping a lot of people. The process of slipping the belt on is rather finicky, if possible can you make a separate more detailed video of how you slip those belts on, I think it would help a lot of people. Again, your videos are top quality, please make more!
Happy to hear you found the video helpful and thanks so much for the feedback. I have found that some belt manufacturers are slightly tighter to get on than others. The method I use when I have a real stubborn one is to loosen one or two of the idler pulleys or even the tensioner bolt. You loosen a couple turns and it allows the pulley to lean over a touch. Hope that helps and thanks again
Awesome. Gm tech, but just bought a Honda so this was awesome. No ridiculously slow videos trying to teach me how to lift a vehicle.
Thanks for the great video it really helped! I just attempted this today on my 2009 Acura MDX. First time doing a job like this took me 8 hours 😆.
Thanks for your comment, an awesome to hear you were able to knock it out!
It is nice to see a professional at work. Thanks for the video.
Thats why we charge what we do....i always hate it when customers would ask me why i charge soo much to replace rear main seal on fwd vehicle or a 4x4 vehicle. My answer is "turn to RUclips" for your answer. Nxt day they come back all apologetic. Then i tell them "price remains the same, take it or leave it".
I like doing all my own mechanical work but this is one worth paying a shop to do
Yep and mainly because of the liability. Sure maybe I could do it but it's not worth risking toasting my engine. At least a shop might be able to be held liable if they do it wrong.
Javier Paredes clearly you have not had shops do much work for you!
At least in my area if they broke it they would just make up something like “well we got into it and the headgaskets and muffler bearings were shot!”
@@joeholland428 haha yeah I can totally see that. Although I went to my local mechanic to have them install a high pressure power steering hose and while they were doing that they broke my rack and pinion somehow. They replaced it with a new one and didn't charge me for the labor so I still came out only paying $150 for the labor for the hose install. I even offered to pay for some of the labor because I felt bad and they declined.
hi ew
😫@@javiboo g in
Ghetv
Very nicely done and gave me confidence to do my own replacement water pump and timing belt. Good audio and good video, really captures the required steps for doing this job.
Awesome to hear you going to tackle the job yourself. Thank you for your comment and feedback, really appreciate it! Let me know how you make out and good luck
Good video, straight to the point. The paper towel on the both head trick is great. Cant believe I've never seen that. Thanks!
Thanks for highlighting that washer on the serpentine tensioner, found it on the ground and had to idea what to do with that.
You’re a great mechanic and instructor man. 5/5 stars for sure.
Thanks!
great video for doing this job. all your extra little tips are great to hear for people who have not done this job. when watching you sound like me helping one of my friends with a car repair that i already know how to do. i have done timing belts on a 1987 camry before. i had belt before one tooth off and another friend showed me if you turn engine backwards it jumped one tooth that i needed. thats why turning it counterclockwise will mess you up. takes me 4 times as long as you to do it first time but it's done right after its all over.just need to be patient and double check everything like you said.
About to do my Wife's 11 pilot timing belt today, words cannot describe how much I'll prefer following your video for the procedure instead of ALLDATA. Not looking forward to the crank bolt. I've heard of people having to use a breaker bar and turning the starter to get that thing off.
Awesome man! Yeah that crank-bolt can be a real pain sometimes. The cranking method works well. ive used it a few times
Excellent video My Friend. Thanks a bunch for all the great, time saving pointers. This job estimate from a shop is $1350. Holy Smokes! Thanks to you, I feel confident I can pull this off.
Man that crank bolt was tough to remove! Finally got the impact socket with super thick walls and a driver with 1050 ft lbs and she popped right off. Nothing else worked including a 4' breaker bar. We just got back from a 400 mile trip and she's purrin' like a kitten. Thanks so much for the help!!
I can’t thank you enough! Just finished the job and all is good thanks to your perfect breakdown. I never had the confidence to do timing belts, and I had a tough time but referencing your videos was the gold ticket.
Had to use lock a breaker bar and pop to the motor once to break the crank bolt because I didn’t have the bad to the bone impact that you do. Quick hit and it broke loose.
Awesome to hear that you were able to knock it out yourself! Thanks so much for dropping a comment
Top notch video man.. 😎
only thing i would add is the water pump seal depending on the brand i find petroleum jelly or preferably silicon grease works well for longevity
Thanks! And yeah I definitely agree with you on that
Didn't mention the top two 14mm I believe they were. On the top of the engine mount/bracket covering the water pump.
Damn the crank bolt tonight not even my Milwaukee 1/2 impact could take off... Had to put the ecu back in n use the starter.
I'd also bring up that if you try to put the engine to TDC the crank must spin 2x per 1 rotation of the cams. So nobody tries to turn the cams manually if they face down.
As this could cause engine damage (bent valve n damaged pistons). I'd add that in with your mention of a "interference engine ".
Awesome video!
Thanks for the very descriptive video. My wife's Odyssey is making a terrible noise and from your previous video, you found a bad timing belt tensioner. This weekend I'll be diving into this project along with your video. Glad we have our oldie but goodie 97 Accord as a backup car so I can take my time changing the timing belt along with the kit.
Eldiego awesome man! Glad to hear you're going to tackle it yourself! Let me know how you end up making out. I'm also going to put a link in the description on this video for the components that I used in case you would like to purchase them. I was meaning to do it, I just haven't got around to it. Thanks again for the feedback
Eldiego awesome man! Glad to hear you're going to tackle it yourself! Let me know how you end up making out. I'm also going to put a link in the description on this video for the components that I used in case you would like to purchase them. I was meaning to do it, I just haven't got around to it. Thanks again for the feedback
Got it done! Turned out to be a bad timing belt tensioner. Now she's purring like a kitten. Big plus, the wife is happy too. Once again, thanks for your videos.
Eldiego awesome to hear man! So glad the video helped you out and you got it taken care of. thank you for letting me know, as people like you are what keeps me motivated.
Looking at buying a 2015 Pilot with 120K miles. This unfortunately would need to be the first job I would have to do. This is a great video with lots of extra details. Even though I have replaced a number OHC belts and chains, I am not sure I want to get into this on a new to me vehicle. I will continue to look for a Toyota Highlander (more expensive) which uses a chain. A timing belt and an interference engine is a bad idea.
Well done! Thank you for this great video. I’m researching as much as possible before I do this job on my 2013 mdx. Your video is a huge help. Thank you!
Awesome to hear the video helped you out and gave some insight. Good luck on the job and thank you for commenting!
Had to bump start to get the crank bolt out, my big snap on impact ( battery and air ) wouldn’t budge it. Even bought the super 19 mm socket they sell to do it. 2011 Honda pilot with 210,000 miles and this was the first time the timing belt had been changed. It looked scary definitely a ticking time bomb!
Yeah that's a tough bolt to get off. My ir261 takes them off no problem though.
Can you elaborate exactly what u mean by "scary" please lol mine has 192k and it's also the original. I have all the parts already, even the special socket. But I'm just staring at it. Nervous as hell, and I've done my own repairs all my life on my vehicles. This one scares me, idk why either. Did ur belt look bad? Any pictures?
Eric Kimmy i did mine a couple years ago for the first time and it was not a hard job. It is due again and i wont hesitate doing it in a few months when it warms up a bit. Just plan a full day and take your time. Hardest part for me was getting that crank bolt broke loose, look on youtube. I found a video where a guy working outside on plywood in flip flops did it. He disabled the ignition by pulling the plug coils then put the right socket with a breaker bar on the crank bolt and got in and bumped the starter. Broke loose first wack. The breaker bar swings around and hits a cross member. The sudden stop breaks the bolt loose.
Anyway don’t wait too long or the belt will break then you will end up having to rebuild the engine all the way.
@@joeholland428 yeah I'm going to have to, someone told me 200 and that's a steal as all the other shops especially the dealership wants 800-1000. I have a kit I bought but it's cheesy. So I bought the real Honda belt and I was just going to change the belt not pump. Or just get a Honda pump and keep original pullies. Nobody recommends to use a cheap pump from Amazon. I'm pissed it doesn't have that little symbol the after market ones have on the corner of the pump casting. So it's like the knock off of the knock off. Idk what to do with it if I can't use it. Should I try it? They say if it fails (usually after 50k miles) you won't know until it's too late bc the belt keeps turning until it shreds itself off to death. Either way I'm nervous, but I drive this car with 198k on it 7-8 hrs a day delivering pizza. It's an amazing car, very well built and I am very comfortable the entire shift. So I want to keep it going. I've done everything I could including tune up on the tranny. Now all that's left is this job
Eric Kimmy i am not a fan of knock off parts on something so critical and deep in the engine. Cheaper to do this job once with decent parts. My last kit cam off amazon. “Aisin TKH-002 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump”.
It has made just over 110,000 miles of driving in sub arctic conditions of down to -55f with no problems yet. I will buy that kit again when i swap it out again when it warms up. For $195 it has all the right parts. Some of the reviews say it is factory parts. I would not skimp by trying to not change idlers and tensioners. The whole kit is cheaper than one break down
Thank you for making this video. It really helped me get my car fixed. Great work.
One of the best well explained video I have seen.........good job
Thanks for sharing.
Never stop learning and applying, gents. You'll be surprised at what you can do when you have a little confidence in yourself.
I suppose I should get bust and replace my wife's belt in her 2010. It's at 265,000 miles...
Great video. All the info you need. Concise, no extra jabber. Thank you
Thanks man
Great video, Thanks! This took me a while, never done anything this involved before - but I was successful!
First time doing anything like this. Just wanted to say thank you very much job successful.
Awesome! I really appreciate the feedback as well. Happy to hear you successfully completed the timing belt maintenance
One of the best car vids i ever seen
Been waiting for someone to do a video on this generation pilot. Thanks!
Glad to be at your service, and I hope it's up to your expectations! Thanks for your comment!
That's the best timing belt video out there. Thank you!!
victor giraud thanks! I really appreciate your feedback. I know I run through it a little bit quick, but for anybody who has worked on cars before this video should work like a charm. glad to hear it helped you out
Great video. Saved a lot of money doing it n the driveway. Took a full Saturday for a mediocre shade tree mechanic like myself.
Awesome man! glad you found it helpful and thank you very much for the comment!
Great procedure, explanation. Real helpful. Thanks a lot
Excellent... just what I wanted to see/know regarding the TB change on a Honda Pilot. Thank you!
No problem, good luck on the job!
Really is a great video... I appreciate the no nonsense quality. I got all the information I wanted efficiently as possible! 👏👏👏
Thanks man. Happy to hear you found it helpful and I appreciate the feedback
I just learnt that I’ll always need a good mechanic!
Thank you Brother
Truly -NO nonsense!
No problem!
Note: The crank Bolt can be extremely stubborn to remove on these Hondas. The heavy duty Honda crank-bolt socket listed down below helps out dramatically. I personally use the IR 261 to remove them as seen in this video: ruclips.net/video/m054LFfJm6Q/видео.html
*HONDA CRANK SOCKET: amzn.to/2QGOQn5
Awesome job brother!
@@Maxumized thanks man
No nonsense for sure! Great video you made in your busy shop life.
Thanks man!
Tough to shoot videos life this lately though. been short handed at work
NoNonsenseKnowHow thats what I appreciated, I know the shop life. Keep up the great work.
I love how you have distilled everything to the bare essence. No-Nonsense indeed
(A little joke/pun/one-liner here/there is always welcome)
btw, Am I hearing Philly or South Jersey sounds..?
Thank you very much from North Jersey!
Great job from one mechanic to another
Thanks man I appreciate that
Awesome video 🤘 love the details....ill be heading to my shop today to do my wife's car..u definitely made my life easier ..thanks dude!! p.s hate freebie jobs 😅
Thanks. And great you found that helpful! Good luck on the job. And yeah working on the wife's car definitely beat
I was going good till I got to the crank bolt ...someone tighten it so tight that I had to go buy the tool and it cracked the casting on in one off the edges 😬 and one off the motor mount bolts started binding ..good times! it ended being 4hours 😫for the complete job ...beer and shower time !!😁
Yeah those Honda crank bolts can be real stubborn! I use my Ingersoll rand 261 3/4-in gun on them and works great. Glad to hear you knocked it out though!
Well done vid! No nonsense, fast and too the point.
That's the exact format I like tutorial videos to be in! You didn't waste any time. Very cool
That's what I shoot for! Thanks for noticing and thanks for comment!
FANTASTIC video. Thank you! This will be one of my references for doing the timing belt/H2O job on our Odyssey. (I have used that Lisle funnel before and it works great).
wow. 18 minutes. I wonder if I can do my brother's in 18 minutes or 18 days....LOL. Great Video. (I'm used to Subies and VW....)
You should be able to knock it out in 4 hours or less if things go smooth. Good luck on the job!
Great job Buddy, mostly positive comments, You deserve it.
Thanks man
I appreciate the encouraging words
Thanks for sharing I can use this info for my Honda Pilot timing belt replacement very soon! 😁
I replace the serpentine idler pully(s) and tensioner when doing this job ..
I really appreciate your video, helped me a lot. One question though, many say you should replace both of the pulley bolts. In your video you reused them. Have you ever heard of any issues with them snapping in the block? Thanks again for the help!
Marvelous to hear you found the video helpful. Yes I have also read that you're supposed to replace the pulley bolts, but now I've never replaced one and have never had or seen an issue. And I've done at least 30 or more of these.
Beautiful video. Definitely spot on and no bs.
Thanks man I appreciate the feedback! Glad you found it helpful
Where are you located? You sound like you're from South/Central Jersey. After seeing how this video I'd love to have you do the belt in my wife's 2014 Pilot. Very thorough and detail oriented. Great vid
I'm in Lower Bucks County. Yeah basically near Central Jersey
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback on the video.
geez thats alot of work. now i can see why timing belt replacement is so expensive
Yep, I agree, I had not idea.
Excellent video and I appreciate the no nonsense instruction and video. What are your thoughts on also replacing the two camshaft and crankshaft oil seals and the serpentine belt while replacing the timing belt?
Definitely recommend replacing the serpentine belt at the same time and check the condition of the serpentine belt tensioner. Always a good idea to replace the camshaft and crank seals, but if they're not leaking I usually don't mess with them. I rarely see them leak. Even at 250k
Thank you, very much appreciate the instructions and sharing your experience and knowledge. My 2014 Ridgeline has 98k on it so I am gathering information and how-to now so I am prepared to do this in the next 5 to 10k miles. Your video is definitely the best I have found on RUclips. I subscribed to your channel and sent it to a few buddies of mine. Thanks again!
@@ekonig19 no problem and thanks man I appreciate that. Good luck on the job
Really good job, when you got to motor mount,I said Ohh Shit,do I have patience... myself to do it.
Thanks man. And you got this, it's not too bad of a job. Just tear into it. Then there's no looking back
That’s a lot of info for my brain right now 🤯🤯😫😩
What kind of charge should I expect if I take mine to a mechanic? I’m a shade tree mechanic but that looks like more than I am able to do.
Price is very dramatically depending on region and type of mechanic you have do it. Could be a few hundred or up to $900. I've seen some crazy prices
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thanks man.
Thumbs up 👍 one thing is too much plastic 😂
Hi, I understand the use of the J Bolt to release the tension on the T-Belt and be able to take it off. But in Honda service manual they use it again when installing the new tensioner and new t-belt, then they pull the pin and then unscrew the j-bolt. What would they be achieving with that as I saw you unscrewing the jbolt then pulling the pin?
That's a good question. Honestly I'm sure it doesn't matter which way you do it. Sometimes that pain can be a little bit tough to get out of there with the tension on it though so maybe that's why. Plus if you need to compress the tensioner a little bit more than usual then maybe you can do that with the J bolt and taking the pin out when installing
Wow! Nice awesome video. Thanks . I just took my 2009 pilot to the shop and he's asking $600 for timing belt. And water pump . Is that a good price ?
Very clear and well explained video I pay a good attention to it,, and my questions is I just bought a 2010 Acura MDX form and certified acura dealer with 63.000 miles on it two owners haves leased the vehicle and back to the dealership.. after how many miles should I change the timing belts.??
The timing belt kit should be done around 105k miles. Thanks for your comment!
NoNonsenseKnowHow thank you very very much for your reply and for letting me know..💪🏻💪🏻👍
Simply the best! Thanks!
No problem! Glad you found it helpful
Great vid thanks! By the way how much is this job?
Thanks. Honestly I don't get involved with the pricing too much. And it's really going to vary on your region and what type of shop you go to. Best thing to do is get three quotes
7:40 also indicate direction of rotation, so you won't accidentally install the belt backwards!
So glad my Accord has a timing chain.
But my buddy has a Pilot. Think I will tell him to bite the bullet and have a professional do this job.
Bummer, I’m considering getting a newer Honda 3.5 vehicle .. my 02 does not have the PCM in the way as this newer one ur showing is.
Great video! You seem like a great and mechanic!
Thanks man appreciate the positive words
Great vid straight to the point
Thanks man, that's what I go for.
what if the cam gear on the left side skipped timing. how can you put it back in time ?
yes
Quick question for you. I pulled my crankshaft pulley off, then pulled the lower TB cover off. The TB Idler pulley had the ball bearings falling out and was completely shot... when I turned the crank to line up the marks, the front cam mark was off about one tooth, and the rear cam was off by about 4-5 teeth. Can I just remove the TB, manually turn the cams the little bit needed to line up, then reinstall all the pulleys and belt again? The car was running fine, but I think the cam pulleys slipped a few teeth when the idler pulley let go.
You said the crank tensioner is if you're using hand tools but.. You may want to note torquing the crank requires using this tool too.. Even if you're using air tools to remove things...
KornShaDoW097 good point. I've added it to the description. Thanks. Let me know how you make out with doing the job. I've done them in my driveway many times. You should be okay. And also, if you don't have the crankshaft holding tool you can always put a little Loctite on the boat and then just as if it down with a 1/2 inch impact gun. There are mechanics at my work that I've seen use this method for 10 plus years and never have an issue. Definitely not the preferred method though
Great Video, you clearly have done this before. I'm a bit nervous but feel I can do it. A ton of little steps but easy to follow. Question I have is, how did you turn the engine twice? I'm assuming it was right after you installed the belt and before you put the remaining covers on?
You got this no problem. It will definitely take you long and you'll probably hit a few obstacles but yeah you're right it's just a bunch of little easy steps. To turn the engine I usually just put the crank bolt back in. Or yes if you want to double-check your timing marks on the bottom to be 100% you can also put the lower cover and pulley on
Biggest bear of this job is getting the crank pulley off to begin with. Without proper tools or a strong enough impact gun it can be very hard. There are several methods you can use though. One of them even uses the start of motor. If you look up some videos You'll see several methods. Thanks for your comment and good luck with the job. Let me know how you make out. There are links see most of what I used in this video in the description
So I've officially bought me the M18 milwaukee high impact wrench and the "honda special tool" with 19mm honda socket..im feeling better already. Some guy on a video said not to replace the pulley seals (round plastic pieces) but why wouldn't I if they're new and part of the Dayco kit. I also ended up getting the dayco water pump and continental serpentine belt. And LASTLY, I got a new crankshaft screw from honda. Just going to put a new one in. Any particular coolant to add when a new pump is installed?
@@herbermorales7468 when you talk about the police eels are you referring to the cam and crank seals? Definitely a good idea to replace them but you don't have to by any means. They're usually good for 250000 miles or more before they start leaking. However if you're not familiar with replacing those seals it's possible to cause damage when removing them. An awesome. I also have Milwaukee M18. But I'm not sure it will be able to take that bolt off.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow well I bought the harmonic balance 19mm and the crankshaft crank pulley wrench holder. Ill have a long torque wrench just in case..since im there and replacing the serpentine belt should I do the pulleys also for that belt? This will be the first serpentine replaced on this vehicle. (99k miles)
I’m pretty green and this may seem like a dumb question but you don’t need to lock the cam sprockets in place?
If you set them in the proper location before removing a belt they shouldn't really move. But yes locking the sprockets in position together is always a good idea. Just make sure to remove whatever tool you use. Stuffing a paper towel in between them works well on a lot of engines as well
NoNonsenseKnowHow gotcha, thanks for the speedy reply. Doing this job on Wednesday so I’m glad I found your video! Subscribed
@@xAlteredEgo no problem and good luck on the job!
Thanks for video ,I finally did mine when I came back from Florida last June. Btw, Do you have a video or suggestion on how to replace rear engine mount of 2004 odyssey? Ty
Great to hear the video helped you out. No I don't have a video on the rear motor mount. I've done them before... they're just a little tight to get in there. Usually have to drop the subframe down some if I remember correctly as well
I've done several Odyssey rear mounts from '00-'04. Best advice is to remove the exhaust from the header pipes back.
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Thanks for the great video. Any tips for cleaning the coolant off the engine block after removing the water pump? Is it just a matter of thoroughly wiping it off with a rag?
Sorry, I just saw your comment now. Thanks for the feedback and I'm glad the video helped out. I used a can of brake clean to spray it down and then blew it off with compressed air
I couldn't get the belt on so I rotated the exhaust cam causing it to snap forward about 40 teeth. Now it won't stay at TDC without holding a wrench to it. How can i get it to stay put again?
I'm not sure I understand the question. But if you put the exhaust cam sprocket at the proper timed position it should stay. If not you can use a cam holder tool or wedge something between the cams like a paper towel.
Thank You very much for this video 📸
Why do u use a diffrent name brand for the water pump? I looked up deyco kits and they come with a water pump should i still buy the GMB water pump? And lose the one that cones with deyco
This is an older video so I'm not sure without going back to see the video. But yeah usually the dayco kits actually include a GMB pump. At least the last few ones I've used have
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow so should i use the deyco one ?
Yea
WHATS THE NAME OF THE PART ON MINUTE 6:26
That is the serpentine belt tensioner
NoNonsenseKnowHow my has a lot oil thanks 🙏 for the video
No problem. Good luck on the repair
1st vid that say when it is due, I was being told 60K.....thank you....
Timing belt in a V6... Why?!? The more I look at this, the more I think that Honda wanted their retailers to make a little extra money for each of their sold cars, and get them in a garage after an 100K miles... This is, like, 2 to 3 hours work, at $100/hour, plus the OEM parts, it gets over $1000 for a belt that should have been a chain...
Thanks for the video.
Could be worse. Better than a poorly designed timing chain system. My friends Mercedes already has broken timing chain guides and ride length and it's only got forty thousand miles on it. I do prefer timing chains myself as well, but only if they're a proven design. And no problem! Thanks for commenting
Thanks for this great video brother.
I heard on an amazon review there is a bolt that some mechanics at dealerships like to replace during the timing belt replacement? Are they just spouting nonsense?
No prob man. And I'm not sure about which bolt you are referring to?
NoNonsenseKnowHow I think they were referring to the timing belt tensioner bolt or crank pulley having a tendency to break after a while and should be replaced with the belt. I’m not sure though. Thank you for trying to help!
In 2006-2008 Honda Pilot Service Manual: " 15. Remove the idler pulley bolt(A) and idler pulley(B), then remove the timing belt. Discard the the idler pulley bolt."
Want to do this job on my 2010 Pilot, just curious about roughly how long the job takes, it seems like a really big job, but I'd still prefer to do it myself than bring it to the dealer.
That's great you're thinking of tackling the job yourself and I highly encourage you to. Just take it real slow and triple check all your work. I can do one of these timing belt water pumps in about two to three hours. But it could take you as long as 10 hours depending on what kind of things you run into. Everybody works at a different pace. Good luck on it and let me know how you make out! Keep in mind that Honda crank bolt is probably the toughest part of this job if you don't have the proper tools
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thank so much, should be doing it at some point in the next few weeks, i'll let you know how it goes.
Well done bro... good job.. best video instruction for honda pilot timing belt..
Neil Alco thanks a lot man! I greatly appreciate the feedback and I'm glad you found the video useful
This procedure would be the same the 2015 pilot right?
Should be yeah, if you have the same engine
Is that water pump better than the Dayco water pump? Is it true that they're manufacturing them for Dayco? I noticed you promote Dayco kit but your links are for the gates timing/ serpentine belt. Sorry last question, I read that this is a good time to replace the oil pump seals?
Honestly, all of these pumps are made in China now. GMB makes a pretty good pump and actually make the pumps for most of these kits. The best pump you can get with the factory OEM from the dealer though. I probably plugged in the link to Gates because Dayco was not available or too expensive on Amazon at the time.
And yes good time to replace cam and crank seals.
Quick update...so I officially completed this work on my 2015 honda pilot. I replaced the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, pulleys, and the motor mount. I took me about a day and a half to complete but I'm ok with this since this was my first time actually doing major work on our car. I did run into a few issues which ill comment on the chat to all. Bottom line, no way I would have been successful if I hadn't researched and memorized your video it would have been a lot more intimidating. I wanted to thank you for the coaching and mentoring.
@@herbermorales7468 that's great to hear that you were able to knock it out yourself. Not only did you save a ton of money, you've increased your skill set dramatically! Also amazing to hear that the video helped give you confidence to tackle the job. Thanks so much for your comment and feedback
I got this job on a 09 tomorrow morning.. In a shop I wouldn't mind... But I gotta do this crap mobile, probably in a parking lot... I may pass on it...
Awesome video and run through boss!
Hey much will cost this job at a shop ?thanks cool video very informative
We missed the best part... the removal of the crank bolt. Using that "skinny" socket would be a tough task.
IR261 3/4" gun zips them off no problem with any socket. But yes thicker sockets much better.