I have never seen a homemade air connector and compressor used to unstick an engine! I have never seen a homemade device for power lapping valves! I have never seen a tractor started using a belt from another tractor! You are a legend!
Hi there, Just a suggestion, when you lap valves using a drill, attach the chuck to the shaft at the collet end rather than the seat end, much easier and consistent, you only need to be able to lift it enough to allow grinding paste to fit and to allow the paste to centralise on the seat every so often. I understand you just wanted it to run, but as an experienced mechanic, if I was going that far I'd rebuild the head properly. Do it once and never need to touch it again. 👍 Glad you got this amazing old JD running against, love these old machines, they'll outlast many lifetimes.
Thanks for the advice. My thinking was it is easy enough to take back apart again, I didn’t even use a new head gasket just coated the old one with permatex aviation sealant for now. I’d like to do a full restoration someday though. Appreciate you watching me fumble around haha.
The gearbox sounds angry, but the engine sounds good. A little more love and you'll have a cool old machine that works well, too. I'm glad you saved it.
Ya it needed saving. I think the noise is the first reduction gear. It’s likely made that noise since the 1930’s, I might not worry too much about it. Gonna try some plowing in the spring with it.
Usually the magnetos need the magnets re-forming and new points and capacitor, Then with some marine two stroke oil in the first half gallon of gas, they are often good to go as long as the valves are not stuck.
Had a similar problem with my 1930 GP, it would turn about 3/4 of a turn then stop. Took the head off and discovered mice had gotten into the engine and had gotten through an open valve into the cylinder and eventually built up enough crud that it couldn't come to top dead center, cleaned everything out, installed a new head gasket and she fired up ( had to have the magneto rebuilt first)
Back in the 60's my dad bought an identical tractor. After removing the head and hitting a stuck valve with a sawed off baseball bat and a sledgehammer it worked just fine. Never was a big fan of the steel wheels tho.
I've always wanted a early model John Deere D for my collection, but that model is scarce here in PA. Currently I have a John Deere Ll and model 40, and I'm currently working on a 1940 Model H
There’s not too many D’s in Wisconsin either, this one was brought from Minnesota by a collector in the 80’s I think. It’s about 300 past nickel-hole production.
@Mike Emerson probably 15 years ago or so I had a chance to buy a 1949 D on rubber for $1,900. I was only 20 at the time and was spending money on dumb things. It's something I've regretted for a long time
Check your oil and make sure there's no water in the crankcase. If you reuse a head gasket you have about a 85% chance that it did not seat. Happy to see that you got it running though congratulations
It didn’t give up easily, thanks for the comment. On the head gasket I used permatex aviation sealant, can’t remember the number but it’s what JD recommended on the 2 cyl diesel head gaskets. So far, so good.
@rustyoldjunk you sure have a nice D. Well we hope you can find the time to come. We're shooting for a 100 D's and your tractor would be a great addition.
Excellent!! Glad to see that you got it running. Out of curiosity, what is smeared on the side of the engine, grease? I couldn't quite tell and I had a hard time hearing your commentary. You may have explained it in the video. Thanks!
I didn’t talk much about it but I welded a 1/8” pipe coupling to a spark plug and put a zerk in it then pumped the cylinder full of grease to break it loose.
if you are serious about breaking it loose fill the cylinders with a 50 50 mix of diesel fuel and motor oil and then heat the cylinders up with a weed burner torch..not only will the heat expand the cylinders , once hot the detergents in the oil will clean the shit out where its stuck
My '29 D is getting a much-needed valve job. The best torque spec i can find is 205 ft.lbs. for the head nuts. I've got new lead washers and a copper gasket from Olson's. Did you have to retorque the head nuts after initial warm-up? Did you use any sealant on the head gasket? Thank you, sir.
They should be re-torqued, 205 sounds right. I used permatex “aviation sealant” on the head gasket, they recommend it for the diesel head gaskets so I use it on all of em. At some point I want to send the head out n get new seats put in mine. It starts ok but sometimes blows compression through the carb.
My Grandpa told stories of when he was young in the late ‘20s plowing with one just about like this one. His uncle would plow during the day and Grandpa would take over at night.
Nope I guess not. That little rod sticking up is the oil pressure indicator and that’s it. Not even a temp gauge. Simple, a hundred years old nearly and still works.
@@rustyoldjunk yeah it works pretty good You just have to keep an eye on the drill chuck to make sure that the val stem isn't coming out of the chuck as you are pulling on the valve, a lot easier then the weeble wobble that you got going on there. cool video though
You are lucky to still have these old tractors around to restore. Shows how well made they were, nice to see them running again!
Thanks 👍
Enjoyed your content on the '26 JD D. Keep it rolling.
Thanks, I acquired a 1928 GP from the same guy, I haven’t got it home yet. I will put up some content on that at some point.
Thank you gentlemen for saving another piece of history !
Thanks.
Glad u made it run so well
Thanks, I was suprised how good it ran
I have never seen a homemade air connector and compressor used to unstick an engine! I have never seen a homemade device for power lapping valves! I have never seen a tractor started using a belt from another tractor! You are a legend!
Hardly a legend but thanks. It was a grease fitting to pump grease in the cylinder. It works most of the time.
So cool I love seeing them old tractors up and running!
I gotta say it’s satisfying getting em running again.
Hi there, Just a suggestion, when you lap valves using a drill, attach the chuck to the shaft at the collet end rather than the seat end, much easier and consistent, you only need to be able to lift it enough to allow grinding paste to fit and to allow the paste to centralise on the seat every so often. I understand you just wanted it to run, but as an experienced mechanic, if I was going that far I'd rebuild the head properly. Do it once and never need to touch it again. 👍 Glad you got this amazing old JD running against, love these old machines, they'll outlast many lifetimes.
Thanks for the advice. My thinking was it is easy enough to take back apart again, I didn’t even use a new head gasket just coated the old one with permatex aviation sealant for now. I’d like to do a full restoration someday though. Appreciate you watching me fumble around haha.
@@rustyoldjunk all good man, thanks for the reply. I hope you get her restored one day too, take care and keep learning 👍😎🍻
Outstanding, congratulations on a job well done!
Thanks
A lot of work. Nice job!!
Thanks.
Congratulations on getting it to run again, I just love the sound of a johnny popper.
Thanks, this one is a lot quieter than I expected with just a short pipe off the manifold
Good work.
Thanks, this one was a challenge.
I love hearing that old iron purr. Thanks.
The sound of the past I guess.
Well done. I like the saving of historical Deere's
Thanks, yes it’s good to save em if you can.
Very good machine 👍🏻👍🏻...
Very good job 🛠️👌👌👏👏👏...
Thanks. They are good old machines.
What a lovely old Deere !👍.
Thanks
The gearbox sounds angry, but the engine sounds good. A little more love and you'll have a cool old machine that works well, too. I'm glad you saved it.
Ya it needed saving. I think the noise is the first reduction gear. It’s likely made that noise since the 1930’s, I might not worry too much about it. Gonna try some plowing in the spring with it.
Excellent job
Thanks
Excelente amigo una verdadera Reliquias
Thank you.
Usually the magnetos need the magnets re-forming and new points and capacitor, Then with some marine two stroke oil in the first half gallon of gas, they are often good to go as long as the valves are not stuck.
I got lucky with the magneto on this one.
Damn it runs good.
Thanks. Ya it does run good.
Had a similar problem with my 1930 GP, it would turn about 3/4 of a turn then stop. Took the head off and discovered mice had gotten into the engine and had gotten through an open valve into the cylinder and eventually built up enough crud that it couldn't come to top dead center, cleaned everything out, installed a new head gasket and she fired up ( had to have the magneto rebuilt first)
Yup sounds like the same situation.
Back in the 60's my dad bought an identical tractor. After removing the head and hitting a stuck valve with a sawed off baseball bat and a sledgehammer it worked just fine. Never was a big fan of the steel wheels tho.
Haha ya they’re pretty tough old engines. I like the looks of steel wheels but they sure make for a rough ride.
I've always wanted a early model John Deere D for my collection, but that model is scarce here in PA. Currently I have a John Deere Ll and model 40, and I'm currently working on a 1940 Model H
There’s not too many D’s in Wisconsin either, this one was brought from Minnesota by a collector in the 80’s I think. It’s about 300 past nickel-hole production.
@Mike Emerson probably 15 years ago or so I had a chance to buy a 1949 D on rubber for $1,900. I was only 20 at the time and was spending money on dumb things. It's something I've regretted for a long time
She was stubborn , but you prevailed and got er' goin'
Check your oil and make sure there's no water in the crankcase. If you reuse a head gasket you have about a 85% chance that it did not seat. Happy to see that you got it running though congratulations
It didn’t give up easily, thanks for the comment. On the head gasket I used permatex aviation sealant, can’t remember the number but it’s what JD recommended on the 2 cyl diesel head gaskets. So far, so good.
@@rustyoldjunk #2 in the tube and Aviation with the can and brush. GOOD stuff!
@@lewiemcneely9143 it came with the paint job lol
@@rustyoldjunk Always recognise the smell.
We'd love to have you and your D at the 2023 National Thrashers Association Wauseon, OH in June to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the D.
That’s a long haul for me, but I’ll think about it. I think I’ve heard of that show.
@rustyoldjunk you sure have a nice D. Well we hope you can find the time to come. We're shooting for a 100 D's and your tractor would be a great addition.
@@timmyers5539 And some from way farther than WI I would guess. This one is about 300 past nickel hole production I think.
Excellent!! Glad to see that you got it running. Out of curiosity, what is smeared on the side of the engine, grease? I couldn't quite tell and I had a hard time hearing your commentary. You may have explained it in the video. Thanks!
I didn’t talk much about it but I welded a 1/8” pipe coupling to a spark plug and put a zerk in it then pumped the cylinder full of grease to break it loose.
@@rustyoldjunk My late father told me tu use kerosene to loosen pistons and / or avoid "gummed" rings.
if you are serious about breaking it loose fill the cylinders with a 50 50 mix of diesel fuel and motor oil and then heat the cylinders up with a weed burner torch..not only will the heat expand the cylinders , once hot the detergents in the oil will clean the shit out where its stuck
Good idea
My '29 D is getting a much-needed valve job. The best torque spec i can find is 205 ft.lbs. for the head nuts. I've got new lead washers and a copper gasket from Olson's. Did you have to retorque the head nuts after initial warm-up? Did you use any sealant on the head gasket? Thank you, sir.
They should be re-torqued, 205 sounds right. I used permatex “aviation sealant” on the head gasket, they recommend it for the diesel head gaskets so I use it on all of em. At some point I want to send the head out n get new seats put in mine. It starts ok but sometimes blows compression through the carb.
Another Popping Johnny lives!...and will never have a flat tire.
Haha nope that’s for sure
Nice.
Have my dads 1952 JD D i have to do the same to it
Those later styled D’s are neat looking tractors
I spent thousands of hours On it plowing baleing and pulling an 8 foot cultivator moving square bales and stacking it all
@@wilmamcdermott3065 that’s cool. Those old D’s run forever and are easy to work on. Good luck with yours
Man , those old tractors were reliable just want to run. Even after all those years.
They do. I wonder if the new ones will be running in a hundred years.
@@rustyoldjunk probably not! The 40 series maybe.
@@Cam-sm1iz yup. The last ones without too many electronics.
Built to last.
Yes that’s for sure
Can you imagine 8 hours a day on that?
8 my grandfather ran his from daylight till dark 530 till 930 1/2 hr @ 12 &6 15 hrs a day
My Grandpa told stories of when he was young in the late ‘20s plowing with one just about like this one. His uncle would plow during the day and Grandpa would take over at night.
Oh yes, they are a far cry from our modern tractors.
Do they call you Mumbling Mike ?
I might’ve been told that I mumble before
Tell us what your doing
I will try n do better in the future on that. Thanks for the comment
Can bring the camera closeer
Yes I will try and remember that, pretty new to this. Also, it was raining for part of it.
As basic and clunky as those tractors were in their day they were still 50x better than owning their equivalent working power in horses.
Yes, they only cost money when they were working and they don’t need breaks. Haha.
Made 50 years before transistors were invented. So no electronic check engine light ..ehh..?
Nope I guess not. That little rod sticking up is the oil pressure indicator and that’s it. Not even a temp gauge. Simple, a hundred years old nearly and still works.
You'd get less "jello" in the video if you didn't mount the camera on the mcahines.
I saw that, dumb mistake. Thanks for the tip.
There is an easier way ti lap those valves, put the drill on the stem end , protruding from the outside of the head. Voila.
Good idea, I’ll have to remember that.
@@rustyoldjunk yeah it works pretty good You just have to keep an eye on the drill chuck to make sure that the val stem isn't coming out of the chuck as you are pulling on the valve, a lot easier then the weeble wobble that you got going on there. cool video though
Thanks.
You don't say !!
It starts by cranking the flywheel now. Tough old engines.
JA
Ruling.
Thanks
We always used to use air to help with getting them free, and our flywheel cheater was about 3ft longer than yours. 😄
I didn’t show it very good but one cylinder was pretty full of mouse nest. I could only get about half or 3/4 of a turn once I got it loose.