Thanks! My husband just called and asked me to keep an eye on the sump pump - this helped me understand what his concern is - and if i have to replace it today, i'll have a better idea of what to look for!
Thanks for all the comments! For information about Backup Sump Pumps, check out these videos. ruclips.net/video/PPQvjRFVtxo/видео.html ruclips.net/video/ZGJPuGuRyL8/видео.html
THis helped alot, having had my hands in murky water blindly trying to find the float so I could trip it manually -- seeing what model I have -- now I can find it.
Superb and instructive. Great job, and a great example of how the US state university system is such a marvelous benefit. Shame on people who would try to defund our state univs.
Yes, DEFUND. They RAKE IN BILLIONS from WEALTHY "non-profits" and REFUSE to lower tuition/book/materials FEES!!! AND narrow mindedly teach the children only ONE side of the political spectrum and DEMONIZE, CENSOR, PUT DOWN, DENIGRATE, DEHUMANIZE the OTHER SIDE, JUST LIKE THE SOVIET UNION, CUBA, CHINA, VENEZUELA!!!!!!!!! FAR-LEFTISTS are LAUGHABLE!!!!!
if you live in an area with a high water table or where your sump is pretty active, you should install a backup pump above the tripline for the bottom pump in case the bottom pump fails.
I thought for certain that he was in the orange store for the pump explanation. The price sticker font, the aisle-closed gate thing...I was positive... Except that the shelf was painted grey rather than the trademark orange, it looked like a place you'd see Tommy or Kevin or Rich. Then they go and give special thanks to Team Blue. Wow! Maybe I was wrong. Either way, nice job, @NDSUExtension!
Connect to GFCI? I fought for this 30 years ago, but then found out that motorized pumps and GFCI’s do not work well together, nuisance tripping. Has something changed? Thanks….Jim
Actually, a GFCI is bad for this. I had the local electrical inspector say that a GFCI breaker (or outlet) is forbidden on critical loads, including sump pumps and freezers because of the potential for damage if the GFCI trips falsely. This is particularly risky with motor loads, which tend to trip GFCI falsely. Also, these must each be on a dedicated breaker with a dedicated outlet (the single kind, not a typical duplex outlet) so people don't plug in other stuff and trip the breaker.
This is basically true. Just another weakness in the sumping process. BUT a DEDICATED electric line IS smart and is CODE in many locales. No overloaded outlets to accidentally cause a blown fuse or tripped breaker and thus, your pump is not going to work.
Good idea.. I put a double switch on my stairs for a light and the pump..just in case high water.. light was great to see if clear water and pump operation..
George I did too. If a sump pump goes bad and you don’t go into your basement regularly if can be catastrophic. In 30 years I’ve replaced about 5 pumps. I tie the string around the float and have the other end in an accessible place and I pull the string up once a week. Trust me it’s worth it
Thanks for the great information. I have a question. ?When selecting the height for the pump to turn on what is the desired level? I have a non weeping pump. I've noticed that there seems to be a natural water table about 2 inches below the top of my slap. Water will collect to this height and then stop. (my float locked in the on position. I've ordered a vertical float) This point (2 inches below top of slab and 9 inches above bottom of drain inlet pipes) would seem to be a good level to set for the "pump on" level so I'm not fighting the natural water table. However, I'm also considering that the best height to set my "pump on" level is just below my drain inlets to allow for my drain pipes to be drained completely. Also I'm thinking setting the pump on level below my drain inlets will reduce pressure to my foundation and protect my foundations structural integrity. ?Are there any plumbing codes that pertain to this level? Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
I was putting a sump basin in my crawl space , I drilled holes along the sides for drainage but unsure if I am supposed to drill holes on the bottom, I thought that the pump needs to be in some water or it will lose its prime and get air locked, do I need to drill holes on the bottom of basin also?
keep in mind the part that fails is the float switch itself... you may as well get ready for it with a second float switch installed you can just plug into pump from outside tank.
hallo , sump pump basin has a many holes on the bottom ..is that how should be and why ..some video show that they made holes all around barrel dont know if that will help and will not make trouble ,thanks
Never connect to town sewers...cousin in cranford NJ...big storm filled storm drains...ready sump could not pump water out...fire dept helped pumping water out... furnace water heater all ruined... like 5 feet of water....
TWICE I HAD A PROBLEM WHERE THE RUBBER CONNECTOR CAME LOOSE. I HAVE A WATER ALARM THAT SAVED MY BASEMENT FROM FLOODING. I NOW HAVE THE CHECK VALVE HARD PLUMBED WITH NO RUBBER FITTINGS OR CLAMPS THAT WILL FAIL. (NOT IF IT WILL FAIL)
+Gary Robles My understanding is that the gurgling sound is being caused by a ventilation problem. Hard to say for sure without knowing the layout of the piping.
+Gary Robles - You shouldn't be discharging any sump pump into the sanitary sewer. The water should be dumped in the garden or should be channeled into the storm drain system. During periods of heavy rain there is already a large amount of water getting into the sanitary sewer system through holes in manhole covers, and it can overwhelm a community's sewage treatment plant, especially when residents add to the flow with sump discharge.
Turn pump off be sure it only goes on at a higher level then water table is.. dry times keep eye on..dont wanna pump water not needed.. my town had 8 inches of water all the time in my pit..
Don't add a check valve if it worked fine before and you don't know where it goes or live in a cold climate with the exit flowing into the yard or woods. the line can slowly freeze closed between cycles with the water being unable to drain one way or the other.
Could always add a vacuum break or freeze prevention valve. Easy and effective remedy to this problem and saves your pump from the weight of the water slamming back onto the pump every time the pump cycles off
Thank you. Very informative. I have a very high water table at my house. The sump pump runs VERY frequently - approximately 2 mins of off time before it kicks on for a short dispersal/run time. Would a larger float range (8” in your examples) be best? How often would you replace the sump pump to be proactive but not overly cautious? TIA
If I had that I would look into installing a small pump that moves that same amount of water that comes in. That way it runs 24/7 slowly keeping the level constant and then the sump kicks in when there is a storm or such. Pumps fail when they turn off and on a lot.
Look into a Hydrocheck control unit - adjust the range to minimize the number of cycles which is what wears out the pump. You should set the bottom to empty the pit and the top to empty the incoming drain to minimize the amout of water in the drain tile that surronds the house
Thanks for this video! My pump hasn't run in a year and there was some water sitting in it. The water is rusty and the pump has rust on it. I figured these things were rust proof. Is this a big problem or is this normal? Do rusty ones still work or is it mandatory replacement? It was a drain for a washing machine...not for flooding...as the pail/sump is sitting ON the basement floor, not in it. Thanks again! :)
GFI outlets fail often, they also trip once and a while when the power flickers. I flooded my basement with a GFI on my sump pump!!! I have replaced too many bad GFI outlets to trust them on anything important like a freezer, fridge, sump pump.
I had the local electrical inspector say that a GFCI breaker (or outlet) is forbidden on critical loads, including sump pumps and freezers because of the potential for damage if the GFCI trips falsely. This is particularly risky with motor loads, which tend to trip GFCI falsely. These must also be on dedicated breakers with a dedicated outlet (the single kind, not a typical duplex outlet) so people don't plug in other stuff and trip the breaker.
well done video, but would have been good to discuss the back up battery setup for these various systems. the back up batteries are simple, but very important
Danielle Boyer There is a system that uses your water pressure to suck out your sump pit. It of course wastes water but is designed to be used in an emergency, such in when bad storms have knocked out the power.
+Danielle Boyer Also check out the SEC America company. They make something called Pump Sentry. It is basically a device a couple of feet long that converts power in marine deep cycle batteries to power your main sump pumps, not the silly 12v pumps that do not. You can even chain 3 batteries together to power the pump for days if needed. When the power goes off, it switches to battery automatically. When power is restored, it starts charging the battery or batteries back up. Great system. Getting one soon for myself. If you have a high flower rate, a water-powered pump is useless and you'll flood.
i agree with the cast iron thing i love zoller pumps. but hp does matter more hp means bigger impeller and bigger pump. they wouldnt put a 1hp motor with a 2in impeller
Just be careful with oversizing the HP. My old 1/2 horse pedestal (installed by previous homeowner) was blasting a crater in my yard every time it output! I recently replaced it with a 1/3 horse submersible which does the same job while sparing my lawn.
Those rubber coup links flooded our house, because when the water pressure from our sump pump started they failed to hold together costing us thousands of dollars.
If you read the technical or sales documentation about those in each side of a check valve it clearly states only usable for 10 feet of static head or less. That means you probably are pumping up higher than 10 feet and when your pump shuts off the water continues going up then reverses due to gravity rushing back downhill slamming the check valve closed resulting in the velocity to immediately to to zero and the momentum to also go to zero (momentum = mass * velocity), so all that energy of the weight of water becomes a pressure wave traveling around the speed of sound (speed dependent on rigidity of the pipe material and pipe layout) that unsurprisingly expanded those expansion fittings resulting in the connection buckling and failing it hit it like a freight train and pressures could easily be 10 times greater than when the pump is running. You need to have some kind of system to absorb the shock wave just making the whole system super rigid won't work it will just bust the pipe. Possible easiest solutions, put in a spring assisted quite check valve that will close due to spring before flow reverses, out check valve vertically, install a surge tank (preferably bladder type). Very difficult problem to deal with contact experts learn as much as you can and this simple basic info is primarily applicable for wastewater I myself have to pump sewage straight up a steep hill about 50' and through 150' of 2" pipe. Good luck.
Tie sump drain into drains for gutters that go to the street right.. r remember water is tops for home inspection fails... first thing water to street...
You need a "Grinder Pump" for basement toilets, etc., They look very similar and the installation is very close to same. If the ground water from the basement sub floor area happens to be directed to a Grinder Pump installed there, then it would pump that water out also. This is often done to a small degree to get more water into the grinder and thus ensure that the stuff from the toilet gets out of the house and doesn't build up in the well. But that amount of water is not enough to keep your basement dry if you need a sump pump. Another difference is that the output from the grinder pump goes into the sanitary sewer while most all of the water from a sump may NOT by code...it just gets pumped out to the backyard away from the house.
buying an industrial type sewage pump is good for ground water too, it will last longer, I had a hydromatic that lasted 10 years and then I moved..had a lot of ground water at that house...been studying up on this and the see through check valve seems to be tops and also quieter... i BOUGHT a hundred dollar switch from amazon that is supposed to fail less than the switches I have had so far..
And a huge and very Important difference not mentioned, a sump is groundwater, aka grey water, that can be discharged out on the ground when you install a macerating sump and pump, it gets hooked into the home septic system AKA blackwater
@@daleval2182 have drains backing up at moms house through, is a slab house n coming up throigh drain in the floor, had plumbers here to no avail and the water is black n gross for years she had to snake outside the house, was told might be underground pipes need replacing which run under garage. Major issue can a sump be installed or other type of pump? Tia
A flood is BIG time hassle. My pump during spring run off or a heavy rain will run every 2 minutes for 30 seconds. I have two pumps in my sump. The second one is enough higher that it normally never gets wet. It's powered by a 12 v battery on a smart charger. Is uses a standard garden hose, run separately. I also have a third pump with the same size fitting so that I can swap pumps. My connection at the top of the sump is a hose clamp so I have no glued fittings to work with for the swap. I don't use a check valve. If I do, the water freezes at the exit point from the house. So I use 1 1/4 line. Next Step: Water alarm.
Not quite -- Near Edmonton, Alberta. We typically have continuous snow cover on the ground from early November to mid April. First snowfall is often September, but it seldom sticks. Last frost is late May, first frost mid September. We've seen snow in June, and in August. Minimum temperatures can be as cold as -50 C (Minus 68 F) but that is rare. Most years, however we have 2-3 weeks where it doesn't get above -30 C (-22 F) even at noon.
Try a one way air vent on the warm side, horizontal section , stops water / air lock. I use a check valve and the two back up pumps as well. My 1 1/4 line runs inside a 4 inch non perforated drain about 120 feet to ditch. I keep the snow piled up all winter on ditch exit. Prevents freeze up. Worked well for about 20 years so far. Near Barrie Ontario.
I believe it is the backflow / check valve as the remaining water drops back onto top of it. The water being pumped up will only empty beyond the outlet to out side.
My 2 cents: Terrible set-up. First off, the discharge pipe shouldn't angle like that so low to the sump-- makes it very hard to work on. Secondly, the electric cords shouldn't be so low or close to the floor for obvious (flooding) reasons. Thirdly the check-valve should not be inside the sump itself because 1) it makes replacing very tedious and 2) notice the stainless steel bands of the hose clamps are fine but the nickel plated screws are rusted out. When the clamp drops the connection leaks and the check fails. Being inside the sump puts the clamps in a constant state of moisture or submersion-- causing quick rusting. Fifth, if any pebbles or debris comes into the sump, it should be removed asap. The small pebbles, especially, could be drawn into the pump's impeller and cause a total pump failure. Keep in mind that pedestal pumps run hotter than submersible pumps (because of that fact) so if you have a busy pump, think about using the latter. Also remember that more hp is not necessarily better when it comes to pumps. The larger the hp the faster the sump is emptied but the more likely it is to recycle more often (on and off) and this will shorten the life of your pump. 1/2, or 3/4 (rarely) hp is about as large as any resident would need, given, say a 9-10' lift, even in larger 3509sf+ homes. The distance being pumped is less critical than is head (height) because water will naturally flow downhill. Lastly, do not exhaust your sump water any less than 10 or 15' from your foundations. The farther away the better.
dont buy one with a float. the float can get pinned against the wall od the sump pit. This will then allow the sump to overflow in to your basement. Learned this the hard way.
I must say if you are an engineer then im god,because you missed so many important things and was wrong on things also. The horse power does not matter when it comes to how far you are pumping only height and approx gpm,once water is pumped into line gravity takes over and the pumps job is done. Next if you have steady water entering sump pit dont use a stainless pump it heats up to quickly,stainless does not disapate heat well. Use a cast iron pump that will take all heat and work much better.
Wow. Excellent. Clear. Concise. Informative. And most importantly, zero music! Thanks much.
This is by far the best video on sump pumps that I have seen. It answered all of my questions that none of the others did. Thank you!
Thanks! My husband just called and asked me to keep an eye on the sump pump - this helped me understand what his concern is - and if i have to replace it today, i'll have a better idea of what to look for!
Thanks for a clear and concise video on sump pumps. Never had a house with one before so this was a good primer on dealing with them.
Thanks for all the comments! For information about Backup Sump Pumps, check out these videos.
ruclips.net/video/PPQvjRFVtxo/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/ZGJPuGuRyL8/видео.html
Very informative Great job! You took the time to explain every pump type. Clear concise, very easy to understand! 👍💯
Excellent video. Very informative and clearly presented. Thanks so much for posting this.
thank you for sharing this video and showing all the differences in sump pumps
Great Video - Thank you, Sir.
I didn't know seepage sumps existed till I watched this, but that is exactly what I need.
THis helped alot, having had my hands in murky water blindly trying to find the float so I could trip it manually -- seeing what model I have -- now I can find it.
Superb and instructive. Great job, and a great example of how the US state university system is such a marvelous benefit. Shame on people who would try to defund our state univs.
Yes, DEFUND. They RAKE IN BILLIONS from WEALTHY "non-profits" and REFUSE to lower tuition/book/materials FEES!!! AND narrow mindedly teach the children only ONE side of the political spectrum and DEMONIZE, CENSOR, PUT DOWN, DENIGRATE, DEHUMANIZE the OTHER SIDE, JUST LIKE THE SOVIET
UNION, CUBA, CHINA, VENEZUELA!!!!!!!!! FAR-LEFTISTS are LAUGHABLE!!!!!
Useful. Especially the part about the different pumps. Thank you.
if you live in an area with a high water table or where your sump is pretty active, you should install a backup pump above the tripline for the bottom pump in case the bottom pump fails.
My job today!
This was great! Very informative and answers lots of questions homeowners would have.
I love this man. Learned a lot. Thank you!
Thanks, from just over the line in Manitoba!
I thought for certain that he was in the orange store for the pump explanation. The price sticker font, the aisle-closed gate thing...I was positive...
Except that the shelf was painted grey rather than the trademark orange, it looked like a place you'd see Tommy or Kevin or Rich.
Then they go and give special thanks to Team Blue. Wow! Maybe I was wrong.
Either way, nice job, @NDSUExtension!
Connect to GFCI? I fought for this 30 years ago, but then found out that motorized pumps and GFCI’s do not work well together, nuisance tripping. Has something changed? Thanks….Jim
Actually, a GFCI is bad for this. I had the local electrical inspector say that a GFCI breaker (or outlet) is forbidden on critical loads, including sump pumps and freezers because of the potential for damage if the GFCI trips falsely. This is particularly risky with motor loads, which tend to trip GFCI falsely. Also, these must each be on a dedicated breaker with a dedicated outlet (the single kind, not a typical duplex outlet) so people don't plug in other stuff and trip the breaker.
GFCI should be a "home run" to the panel. A dedicated use line.
I have never had a problem with GFCI.
This is basically true. Just another weakness in the sumping process. BUT a DEDICATED electric line IS smart and is CODE in many locales. No overloaded outlets to accidentally cause a blown fuse or tripped breaker and thus, your pump is not going to work.
Very clearly explain and captured detail information, thank you and appreciated.
Clear, precise, and very helpful. Thanks !
I always tie a string to the float so I can check it at anytime without pouring water in to the basin. I always make a point to check it weekly.
B L how
weekly really
Good idea.. I put a double switch on my stairs for a light and the pump..just in case high water.. light was great to see if clear water and pump operation..
I just learned that the hard way.
George I did too. If a sump pump goes bad and you don’t go into your basement regularly if can be catastrophic. In 30 years I’ve replaced about 5 pumps. I tie the string around the float and have the other end in an accessible place and I pull the string up once a week. Trust me it’s worth it
Thanks for the great information. I have a question. ?When selecting the height for the pump to turn on what is the desired level? I have a non weeping pump. I've noticed that there seems to be a natural water table about 2 inches below the top of my slap. Water will collect to this height and then stop. (my float locked in the on position. I've ordered a vertical float) This point (2 inches below top of slab and 9 inches above bottom of drain inlet pipes) would seem to be a good level to set for the "pump on" level so I'm not fighting the natural water table. However, I'm also considering that the best height to set my "pump on" level is just below my drain inlets to allow for my drain pipes to be drained completely. Also I'm thinking setting the pump on level below my drain inlets will reduce pressure to my foundation and protect my foundations structural integrity. ?Are there any plumbing codes that pertain to this level? Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very informative and so helpful good video and great production !
Thanks 🙏
Dry as a bone, I wish mine was like that. Where is this house? the sahara?
Haha same, I always have 6-8 inches in mine
I was putting a sump basin in my crawl space , I drilled holes along the sides for drainage but unsure if I am supposed to drill holes on the bottom, I thought that the pump needs to be in some water or it will lose its prime and get air locked, do I need to drill holes on the bottom of basin also?
keep in mind the part that fails is the float switch itself... you may as well get ready for it with a second float switch installed you can just plug into pump from outside tank.
Very good video, and seems complete..the best one so far, thanks!
hallo , sump pump basin has a many holes on the bottom ..is that how should be and why ..some video show that they made holes all around barrel dont know if that will help and will not make trouble ,thanks
Where can buy sump floats with mercury switch and not the unreliable mechanical switch?
Thank you!!! Horns up, Go Bizon 🤘 - 07 Graduate
Never connect to town sewers...cousin in cranford NJ...big storm filled storm drains...ready sump could not pump water out...fire dept helped pumping water out... furnace water heater all ruined... like 5 feet of water....
TWICE I HAD A PROBLEM WHERE THE RUBBER CONNECTOR CAME LOOSE. I HAVE A WATER ALARM THAT SAVED MY BASEMENT FROM FLOODING. I NOW HAVE THE CHECK VALVE HARD PLUMBED WITH NO RUBBER FITTINGS OR CLAMPS THAT WILL FAIL. (NOT IF IT WILL FAIL)
That was interesting that is how we do it, keeping it real
Very informative, thank you...
Do you have a video on how to use a portable sump pump? I am looking to get one and I need to know which one to get and how to use them.
I think you are describing a "submersible pump". Put it into sump hole and it turns on. No float.
I have one for emergency / stand by.
Is it critical to have the 135 degree elbows instead of the 90 degree elbows? I installed mine with 90 degree elbows.
It is not critical to use the 45° fittings
replaced sump pump now I get this gurgling sound from the kitchen sink. did I put the outlet to high to the drain out to the caught basin. HELP!!
+Gary Robles My understanding is that the gurgling sound is being caused by a ventilation problem. Hard to say for sure without knowing the layout of the piping.
Gary Robles
+Gary Robles - You shouldn't be discharging any sump pump into the sanitary sewer. The water should be dumped in the garden or should be channeled into the storm drain system. During periods of heavy rain there is already a large amount of water getting into the sanitary sewer system through holes in manhole covers, and it can overwhelm a community's sewage treatment plant, especially when residents add to the flow with sump discharge.
Katherine Nevins
This was very helpful!
Does the local building code require a GFCI outlet be installed for sump pumps?
Turn pump off be sure it only goes on at a higher level then water table is.. dry times keep eye on..dont wanna pump water not needed.. my town had 8 inches of water all the time in my pit..
Thanks, good detailed information. This is very helpful in making my decision in getting my new sump pump. :-)
Don't add a check valve if it worked fine before and you don't know where it goes or live in a cold climate with the exit flowing into the yard or woods. the line can slowly freeze closed between cycles with the water being unable to drain one way or the other.
Could always add a vacuum break or freeze prevention valve. Easy and effective remedy to this problem and saves your pump from the weight of the water slamming back onto the pump every time the pump cycles off
I live in Canada near Buffalo NY and that has never happened.
Excellent video
should my sump pump always have a little bit of water on the bottom of it?
yes
Why No gravel or paver on the bottom of the pit ?
Hi ,,if the drain that’s going to the sump pump close with cement or with dry clay what can I do to open it pls
DO YOUINSTALL A VENT o all the sump pump you install, how do you do that?????
It doesn't need a vent.
Thank you. Very informative. I have a very high water table at my house. The sump pump runs VERY frequently - approximately 2 mins of off time before it kicks on for a short dispersal/run time. Would a larger float range (8” in your examples) be best? How often would you replace the sump pump to be proactive but not overly cautious? TIA
Good questions. I have the same busy sump.
If I had that I would look into installing a small pump that moves that same amount of water that comes in. That way it runs 24/7 slowly keeping the level constant and then the sump kicks in when there is a storm or such. Pumps fail when they turn off and on a lot.
Look into a Hydrocheck control unit - adjust the range to minimize the number of cycles which is what wears out the pump. You should set the bottom to empty the pit and the top to empty the incoming drain to minimize the amout of water in the drain tile that surronds the house
Great video. You explained it more on an engineering level then a plumber level.
very informational
thanks!
What size silent check valve to use?
Sump pump has a silent check value but it still making a hammer noise after sump pump stops pumping ??
Great educative video!! Thanks
Thanks for this video!
My pump hasn't run in a year and there was some water sitting in it. The water is rusty and the pump has rust on it. I figured these things were rust proof. Is this a big problem or is this normal? Do rusty ones still work or is it mandatory replacement? It was a drain for a washing machine...not for flooding...as the pail/sump is sitting ON the basement floor, not in it.
Thanks again!
:)
It was probably not rust, but iron ochre
GFI outlets fail often, they also trip once and a while when the power flickers. I flooded my basement with a GFI on my sump pump!!! I have replaced too many bad GFI outlets to trust them on anything important like a freezer, fridge, sump pump.
So use a GFI breaker instead of GFI outlet? Thx.
GFI is code in most municipalities
I had the local electrical inspector say that a GFCI breaker (or outlet) is forbidden on critical loads, including sump pumps and freezers because of the potential for damage if the GFCI trips falsely. This is particularly risky with motor loads, which tend to trip GFCI falsely. These must also be on dedicated breakers with a dedicated outlet (the single kind, not a typical duplex outlet) so people don't plug in other stuff and trip the breaker.
well done video, but would have been good to discuss the back up battery setup for these various systems. the back up batteries are simple, but very important
Glaring omission indeed.
Dont buy one! I had one and it didnt stay charged long. Even tho constantly trickle charged.
@@3genac Dont buy one! I had one and it didnt stay charged long. Even tho constantly trickle charged.
DWV fittings in a pressure application
Nice video, THank you
Any tips for a back-up in I have no power ?
Danielle Boyer There is a system that uses your water pressure to suck out your sump pit. It of course wastes water but is designed to be used in an emergency, such in when bad storms have knocked out the power.
+Danielle Boyer Also check out the SEC America company. They make something called Pump Sentry. It is basically a device a couple of feet long that converts power in marine deep cycle batteries to power your main sump pumps, not the silly 12v pumps that do not. You can even chain 3 batteries together to power the pump for days if needed. When the power goes off, it switches to battery automatically. When power is restored, it starts charging the battery or batteries back up. Great system. Getting one soon for myself.
If you have a high flower rate, a water-powered pump is useless and you'll flood.
Good info!!
i agree with the cast iron thing i love zoller pumps. but hp does matter more hp means bigger impeller and bigger pump. they wouldnt put a 1hp motor with a 2in impeller
Just be careful with oversizing the HP. My old 1/2 horse pedestal (installed by previous homeowner) was blasting a crater in my yard every time it output! I recently replaced it with a 1/3 horse submersible which does the same job while sparing my lawn.
On my house getting to the sump pump is the hardest part. It's under the house.
i pumpo about 30gpm through a 100 foot fire hose with a 15 foot head and a 1/2 hp pump and 1.5 inch hose
Well done! Answered my questions.
Those rubber coup links flooded our house, because when the water pressure from our sump pump started they failed to hold together costing us thousands of dollars.
If you read the technical or sales documentation about those in each side of a check valve it clearly states only usable for 10 feet of static head or less. That means you probably are pumping up higher than 10 feet and when your pump shuts off the water continues going up then reverses due to gravity rushing back downhill slamming the check valve closed resulting in the velocity to immediately to to zero and the momentum to also go to zero (momentum = mass * velocity), so all that energy of the weight of water becomes a pressure wave traveling around the speed of sound (speed dependent on rigidity of the pipe material and pipe layout) that unsurprisingly expanded those expansion fittings resulting in the connection buckling and failing it hit it like a freight train and pressures could easily be 10 times greater than when the pump is running. You need to have some kind of system to absorb the shock wave just making the whole system super rigid won't work it will just bust the pipe. Possible easiest solutions, put in a spring assisted quite check valve that will close due to spring before flow reverses, out check valve vertically, install a surge tank (preferably bladder type). Very difficult problem to deal with contact experts learn as much as you can and this simple basic info is primarily applicable for wastewater I myself have to pump sewage straight up a steep hill about 50' and through 150' of 2" pipe. Good luck.
Tie sump drain into drains for gutters that go to the street right.. r remember water is tops for home inspection fails... first thing water to street...
Ground Fault CIRCUIT Interrupter.
Calvin DeJong GFI is an accepted common nomenclature term as well.
thank you!!!!
No, no, no gfci on a sump pump
Absolutely right. They trip much easier than the circuit breaker.
AY LOVE D,S MAN GOD GRACIAS 💙💚💛💜💛💚👍👍👍👍👍
diaphragms switches are the worst. they last a year or 2 if your lucky.
I don’t like installing GFCI outlets on pumps like this because they trip when they shouldn’t.
Water and electricity do not mix.
Will save your life.
Rick B water and electricity work just done together. Pure distilled water isn’t even conductive. It’s the minerals within water that are conductive
anyone know if this works for a bathroom shitter/sink?
You need a "Grinder Pump" for basement toilets, etc., They look very similar and the installation is very close to same. If the ground water from the basement sub floor area happens to be directed to a Grinder Pump installed there, then it would pump that water out also. This is often done to a small degree to get more water into the grinder and thus ensure that the stuff from the toilet gets out of the house and doesn't build up in the well. But that amount of water is not enough to keep your basement dry if you need a sump pump. Another difference is that the output from the grinder pump goes into the sanitary sewer while most all of the water from a sump may NOT by code...it just gets pumped out to the backyard away from the house.
buying an industrial type sewage pump is good for ground water too, it will last longer, I had a hydromatic that lasted 10 years and then I moved..had a lot of ground water at that house...been studying up on this and the see through check valve seems to be tops and also quieter... i BOUGHT a hundred dollar switch from amazon that is supposed to fail less than the switches I have had so far..
And a huge and very Important difference not mentioned, a sump is groundwater, aka grey water, that can be discharged out on the ground when you install a macerating sump and pump, it gets hooked into the home septic system AKA blackwater
@@daleval2182 have drains backing up at moms house through, is a slab house n coming up throigh drain in the floor, had plumbers here to no avail and the water is black n gross for years she had to snake outside the house, was told might be underground pipes need replacing which run under garage. Major issue can a sump be installed or other type of pump? Tia
A flood is BIG time hassle.
My pump during spring run off or a heavy rain will run every 2 minutes for 30 seconds.
I have two pumps in my sump. The second one is enough higher that it normally never gets wet. It's powered by a 12 v battery on a smart charger. Is uses a standard garden hose, run separately.
I also have a third pump with the same size fitting so that I can swap pumps.
My connection at the top of the sump is a hose clamp so I have no glued fittings to work with for the swap.
I don't use a check valve. If I do, the water freezes at the exit point from the house. So I use 1 1/4 line.
Next Step: Water alarm.
Where do you live Alaska?
Not quite -- Near Edmonton, Alberta. We typically have continuous snow cover on the ground from early November to mid April. First snowfall is often September, but it seldom sticks. Last frost is late May, first frost mid September. We've seen snow in June, and in August. Minimum temperatures can be as cold as -50 C (Minus 68 F) but that is rare. Most years, however we have 2-3 weeks where it doesn't get above -30 C (-22 F) even at noon.
Try a one way air vent on the warm side, horizontal section , stops water / air lock. I use a check valve and the two back up pumps as well. My 1 1/4 line runs inside a 4 inch non perforated drain about 120 feet to ditch. I keep the snow piled up all winter on ditch exit. Prevents freeze up. Worked well for about 20 years so far. Near Barrie Ontario.
I had a pump installed by a plumber and it makes a banging sound off and on. Is this normal?
I believe it is the backflow / check valve as the remaining water drops back onto top of it.
The water being pumped up will only empty beyond the outlet to out side.
Yes. It's normal. It's the check valve. If you want it to be silent you need to buy a silent check valve. Isn't plumbing simple? :)
My 2 cents: Terrible set-up. First off, the discharge pipe shouldn't angle like that so low to the sump-- makes it very hard to work on. Secondly, the electric cords shouldn't be so low or close to the floor for obvious (flooding) reasons. Thirdly the check-valve should not be inside the sump itself because 1) it makes replacing very tedious and 2) notice the stainless steel bands of the hose clamps are fine but the nickel plated screws are rusted out. When the clamp drops the connection leaks and the check fails. Being inside the sump puts the clamps in a constant state of moisture or submersion-- causing quick rusting. Fifth, if any pebbles or debris comes into the sump, it should be removed asap. The small pebbles, especially, could be drawn into the pump's impeller and cause a total pump failure. Keep in mind that pedestal pumps run hotter than submersible pumps (because of that fact) so if you have a busy pump, think about using the latter. Also remember that more hp is not necessarily better when it comes to pumps. The larger the hp the faster the sump is emptied but the more likely it is to recycle more often (on and off) and this will shorten the life of your pump. 1/2, or 3/4 (rarely) hp is about as large as any resident would need, given, say a 9-10' lift, even in larger 3509sf+ homes. The distance being pumped is less critical than is head (height) because water will naturally flow downhill. Lastly, do not exhaust your sump water any less than 10 or 15' from your foundations. The farther away the better.
this is the kind of comment that makes me read comments!!! Nice work friend - it is appreciated
Look up Radon gas
dont buy one with a float. the float can get pinned against the wall od the sump pit. This will then allow the sump to overflow in to your basement. Learned this the hard way.
If the diameter of the sump is adequate there should no problem of touching the wall with a float.
Sum pump
YES OUR CHILDREN SUFFERED, WERE TARGETED YES
I must say if you are an engineer then im god,because you missed so many important things and was wrong on things also. The horse power does not matter when it comes to how far you are pumping only height and approx gpm,once water is pumped into line gravity takes over and the pumps job is done. Next if you have steady water entering sump pit dont use a stainless pump it heats up to quickly,stainless does not disapate heat well. Use a cast iron pump that will take all heat and work much better.