Zoeller M98 (Best Pump!): amzlink.to/az0EPUkoBYarE DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
My dad had installed a sump pump and I remember helping trench in a discharge pipe all the way down the driveway and out into the ditch that runs in front of their house this was like 80 feet down. The slope was easily 1/4" a foot, and we cut a little hole through the cinder block about 4' up the wall. Well when the pump kicked in and we discovered something we had not calculated. The water flow was so great, it created a siphon in the line and when the pump shut off, the siphon was still drawing water from the pit for minutes after the pump stopped. Then you would get that sound that you hear when a kid is trying to suck every last drop of soda out of the bottom of a glass. All I did the job it emptied the pit and the pump didn't have to run as much because the siphon would help out
Great luck. I've been trying to create a suction effect such that the pump itself doesn't have to cycle as often. Unfortunately, I don't have a long enough discharge run.
Love the video. Something clicked for me when watching. My pump that installed a few years ago was VERY noisy. I thought I installed it wrong, but turns out it was just the crappy check valve doing water hammer action. I bought the clear one you linked here and it is now silent! Wow. what a difference. Thank you.
Where I live, we always have a backup pump to the main pump. In most cases we use water jets that use house water pressure and require no power, just in case of power loss (Liberty Pumps). I love Zoeller M98 pumps and have a second backup pre-plumbed with a check valve sitting by ready to install in less than 15 minutes, should the main one fail. Last thing you want is a failure, can't get a replacement and have to rely on your backup for extended periods. We all know they only fail in the middle of the night when stores are not open. ;) Tip... always set the pump on a couple bricks so it is above the bottom of the well and keeps most dirt away from the intake. The well should be cleaned out every year.
+1 for the Liberty Pump water jet backup. Installed several over the years for myself, relatives, and friends. More involved to install given the water hookup - but great not having to worry about charged batteries or slow flow backup pumps.
Very informative, down to Earth presentation. Practical and easy to understand. The only things I would do differently is to install a Zoeller check valve (30-0238) directly into the pump, then connect the PVC tube at that location. This check valve already has a weep hole, and that would save time drilling one into the pipe. I'd also want to position the pump so the incoming water isn't directed at the float. Here at home I have an SEC voltage inverter for a backup for my main pump. And, even though it would add some complexity, I'd still add a battery powered backup pump. As reliable (or unreliable) as any main pump and an inverter can be, it wouldn't hurt to have a second pump ready to go into action if the main one conks out.
For my home I had a water powered back up sump pump installed that saved me from basement flooding at least 3 times. The pump motors always worked it was the switches that failed over time.
I'm actually replacimng the sump pump myself this weekend. My basement flooded. The warranty company is dragging the process and I can't wait any longer. It will actually cost me less to do it myself than what I will pay out of pocket with warranty involved. Thank you!
I need the hole motivation spelled out a bit more explicitly. Is the problem that the column of water over the check valve keeps it closed so the air, pushed weakly by the impeller in its bubble, can't get out of the way and let the water in?
This is a really great install for many reasons: 1) no hose clamps below lid keeps them from rusting. 2) spare pump plumbed with discharge pipe already cut to right length and ready to go. 3) alarm system that has intelligent monitoring and works remotely when you are not home. The only thing I’d do differently is use a non switched pump model with a separate switch using a piggyback plug. That way when the switch fails it can bypassed by plugging the pump in directly to troubleshoot. I use the Levelguard switch myself.
Use stainless hose clamps to avoid rust problems. Use a magnet to check whether the clamp screws are stainless. Some places stock them as stainless but they're not and they'll rust in a couple years and release tension. Usually, the places selling the clamps with standard screws is done out of incompetence not deception.
Thanks for the video about sump pumps. Your video was informative and showed several sump pump installations. There are some other options that might be useful for some viewers. Wayne Sump Pumps: Another good brand of sump pumps is Wayne. I have used Wayne pumps in my house since 1986. I normally get 5 to 7 years out of these pumps. I buy the all cast iron pumps - I have had a hybrid cast iron/plastic pump once - the plastic was the case for the actual pump - the motor/switch was cast iron. The plastic eventually cracked which made the pump to leak and stop pumping. The all cast iron pumps cost a few dollars more but are more rugged than the iron/plastic hybrid pump. Wayne pumps are also sold under other brands such as Campbell Hausfeld and Ace. Can tell the Wayne pumps by the design of the switch on top of the pump. Need to have the pump sized for your application. It is just as bad to get a too big of pump as too small. GFCI Outlet. The sump pump should be on its own GFCI outlet that way the only thing tripping the outlet is the sump pump. The GFCI outlet compares the current on the hot to the current on the neutral. If the current difference is more than 0.005 amps ( 5 milliapms) - the outlet will trip. When the outlet trips - this means that the pump is starting to fail and it is time to replace. LED Nite Light: I plug the pump into one side of the outlet and an LED night light into the other side. The nite light is the switch, not light triggered, type. The nite lights are cheap, do not use much electricity, reliable, and show that the outlet is on. If the light is out, the GFCI outlet has tripped and the sump pump needs to be checked. Stand Alone Sump Pump Alarm: I have a sump pump alarm that triggers when the water rises above the alarm sensor. I just tape the sensor at the desired position on the tube from the sump pump. The alarm is just as loud as a fire detector. The alarms are under $20 - I bought mine at Home Depot. Spare Sump Pump: I have a complete spare sump pump set up that is ready to install. I used some spa hose and agricultural water connectors to connect the sump pump to the drain hose/pipe. This allows me to change out the sump pump without tools (in the middle of the night if required). One wet year, I had to buy an off brand of sump pumps since all of the good pumps were sold out. With a spare pump, I have time to get a replacement. Spare Check Valve: The check valve is one of the least reliable parts of a sump pump set up. I always have a spare to replace a worn out check valve. Cheap insurance. If the check valve fails, the sump will have a short cycle since the water will back fill the sump.
I would never rely on switching out the pumps during a failure or switching to the battery supply during a power outage. What if I'm not home? For something that you don't generally need to mess with, the complexity of a battery powered backup seems worth it to me. But I agree 💯 on Zoeller.
Good job drilling the vent hole. The vent in the discharge pipe is not just in case the one in the pump gets clogged. It's to expel trapped air out of the discharge pipe. The vent hole in the pump is to expel trapped air out of the pump housing. Both are necessary for reliable pumping. You'd be surprised how many "professionals" think they are not necessary.
Your previous video reminded me to go take some measurements and do some checks before the rains come. Bought a new pump and battery backup pump combo kit and installing it this week. Should be fairly straightforward. And I'll keep current pump as additional backup.
Great video with excellent explanations. I have a lot of water drainage into my sump. I mostly use Liberty pumps which have been very reliable. However one of my biggest fears is to have my pump stop working and flood the basement. So I had a Liberty SJ10 water powered system installed as a backup. While I don't like having to use good water to displace bad, I do not have to worry about a failing battery with a battery backup. I have a spare new sump pump with a new check valve in standby that I can replace in 15 minutes if needed. I also have my home alarm system tied into my sump so I know if the main pump is not working. Probably major overkill but I sleep well and can go out of town without worry. Thanks
Thank you for all the great information especially on the weep hole explanation. The first time I read about a weep hole I did not take the time to reread and understand. But your explanation was more cocise and actually showing it as opposed to a drawing explains it much better.
I have watched so many people angle the drilled hole, downward... but never seen any actually spray downward... that water comes out perpendicular to the pipe. [I have seen airlocked pumps, running like mad, with no water leaving. The vent hole is important.]
This pump is overkill for 99% of homes. (I have one of these) First of all, it pulls a 10-11 amp load when running which is HIGH. Plus the startup surge is between 25-30 amps so you might not want this on a 15 amp line as if that breaker trips, you may not know and have a flooded basement. It can pump something like 85 gallons a minute which is a lot. WAY MORE than you'll ever need. Go with their smaller M53 and be able to sleep at night.
@@AngeloR674 I don’t think you understand what he’s saying. If you have this on a 15a run which is most likely 12 gauge wire sometimes even 14 you’re drawing 10awg amperage on a 12-14awg wire which will cause it to trip or heat up the wire.
TIP: your PVC has three 90 degree bends like mine did, I changed mine by going straight up with a 45 degree bend to the outside, less 90 degree elbow bends, less resistance to the water flow. I also changed to a ball float switch, the fixed float switches don't provide enough on/off levels, they tend to cycle too much between on/off . I set my ball float cord about 6" out to get rid of 8" of water, not 4 or 5".
@@AngeloR674 Zoeller M95 has in large print on the box about the need for a 3/16" weep hole and refers customer to the install manual. Which I'll prolly read some day.
Everbilt is a good brand as well. We replaced my older pump from the 90's. I had to get a small paver to rest the pump since the last guy didnt add one. My pump died because it sucked in dirt.
I have the Watch Dog System, other than checking the Battery every other month, not much to do. Things I like about this system, is it exercises the Pumps, so they don’t lock up during a dry spell. Also the Main Pump has an off Time Delay so it pumps the pit down further after the Float drops.
Timely, I just installed a Zoeller pump with a basement watchdog battery backup unit. I noticed your original setup had the two pvc pipes merge below the check valve. Basement watchdog doesn’t show that but I plumbed mine the way you had your original. Any thoughts on that? Also, I put in a “quiet” check valve and they are awesome, very quiet, no more valve bang.
Great video Scott. I also live in the Midwest and my basement could be subject to RADON gas. For a future video, you may wish to show the install of a leak tight sump pump cover and also a radon gas pump system. Thanks for some great content.
Great video and detailed as usual. My only worry with your setup is if you are on vacation for 2-3 weeks and the power goes out during a big storm. Do you end up with a flooded basement.
I would rotate the pump counter clockwise, so that the 4" discharge won't flow onto the float. Dunno, if I'm paranoid, but my logic is that,the water pouring on top could stop the pump by not allowing it to come up to full height.
got into that exact issue earlier today. Float switch was stuck with toilet paper coming right from the inlet just above. Reset it but need to reposition the pump so that doesn't keep on happening
I have the grinder version of that pump and had the same thought however fearing toilet paper weight on the float. There is way more to consider when installing a sump than many would consider.
One pro tip, bud. The internal switches on these go bad like crazy. They are underdesigned to handle the arcing that will occur each time it switches on. What you need to do is buy a solid state switch which takes out all chance of mechanical failure. You then zip tie the float so the pump is in the always on position and attach the solid state switch to your cord. Now the unit will only recieve power when the solid state switch detects water wherever you have mounted it. Zoeller and LevelGuard have one that works like I said but are kinda pricy. There's a different one by Roamoris AC that I haven't looked into but is much cheaper but seems to use a different setup. Probably worth checking out.
I swapped my check valve to the one you used about a year ago because my unit was constantly air hammering. haven't had that problem since. getting ready to put in a proper pit.
Very interesting! I don't have a sump pump, but your clear explanation of the replacement was enjoyable and informative. Great video, as always-- keep them coming, sir!
Helpful video. But one concern... I had a sump pump installed in a previous house. By a leading, sump pump only nationwide outfit. It worked great and it had an open cover like yours. Prior to the sump pump install my radon level was 2, which was considered good (I'm in the northeast which often has high radon). A year after the sump pump was installed, I decided to test again. The radon level was 10! Equivalent to a pack of cigarettes a day and the second leading cause of lung cancer in Massachusetts. Worse, I had a finished basement with HVAC air returns and that radon gas went all over my house. Needless to say, I redid the cover and my radon level went back to 2. At a minimum you should test for radon and best of all have a sealed cover.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs There are electronic radon testers available for less than $150 which provide continuous monitoring. More convenient than the old style use once charcoal testers that you need to send to a lab. It's interesting how the radon level increases with rain.
I know I am late to this video, but if your structure is subject to unacceptable levels of radon, you will probably want to consider sealing the sump basin lid. Some lids have an access port (which might double as a large removable knockout) so you can see what is happening inside the basin.
If I was putting in a new pump I would also change the check valve(s) just to be on the save side. A new pump won’t work with a soon to bad check valve ?
Good info and thanks. My zoeller m98 pump float switch failed after 10 years of service, At that point I purchased the identical pump & an additional float switch. Installed the new switch in the old pump & stored it for future failure. Switch was inexpensive compared to pump. Also using a water backup pump, as power & water are seldom out together. Purchased the basepump model, works as designed.
I put a flooding alarm in the upper part of the sump, it just makes a loud noise. If I were to travel, then I'd invest in an alarm with wifi and a contractor to come in to do the mitigation. I keep a small, portable sump pump with hose that fits it hung on the wall next to the sump, long enough to go out the basement window and to the street. I use this portable pump for various pumping tasks, like the pool sump, so it pays for itself already. it pulls small enough load that I can run it off an inverter which I keep in our car for blackout emergencies.
The best set up probably would have been a main pump and a secondary with battery backup. Your idea sounds okay and much cleaner though with that smart outlet to notify you of issues
The M53 and N53 Zoellars used to be a good pump. After having two on the job Failures, I opened the pumps up. They eliminated the Top Ball Bearing for a Sleeve Bearing.
Running it in duplex was smart, on commercial jobs there's a controller box to alternate which one is running to make wear more even on both of them. I'd have ran both sumps independently to the discharge check with each pump having its own check valve.
Thanks for the video...My problem is my house has a 1" pipe. Plus no way to take it apart without cutting the pipe. PVC pipe comes out of the sump pump once out of the basin, goes 90 degrees for about 2.5 ft then 90 degrees, then straight up 9ft, then 90 degree towards the outside of my house about a 1.5ft. For now I am going to get an adapter for 1.5" to a 1" to get the pump working. Later this summer I will replace the 1" with a 1.5" PVC pipe, put a check valve, and have it go straight up then 90 degree towards the outside. I also saw a video where they put a "T" adapter on the pipe outside. This way if it freezes you can unscrew it so the water discharges still. I did not do this. I had the pipe coming outside then 90 degree down for 1.5ft then 90 degree for about 30ft to a pop up drain away from the house. My house was built in 2013 in Eastern Missouri.
I live in a swamp forest, and we have a lot of clay in our soil, way more than I've ever seen. So, the sumps don't last very long and additionally the discharge pipes end up getting lined with clay. When I moved in a few years ago, my neighbor warned me about this - he said you need to clean out the discharge pipes every so often. I of course did not listen and my basement flooded as a result. I had a plumber come out and replace the sump and he showed me the old discharge pipe - that 1.5" pipe had probably 1/4" effective due to the clay build-up.
This is great info. I've been an insurance agent for 4 years and buying my first home. Water claims are AWFUL to work with... I want to make sure I have a great setup so I'll never have to file a water claim
I have your M98 Zoeller Sump Pump, exactly same as yours from Lowes, it is not a cheaper version, it is the exact same, solid cast iron, green, M98, bought it 8 years ago, just to have it on hand, so its a extra still in the box. It must have been before they went to a less expensive model because its identical to yours and whats in my sump pump now. You do not have to connect those pvc water emptying exhaust pipes to the sump pump, mine just sits down inside my Sump Pump, while the other pvc pipe pumps out tbe water up to and above the main sewer pipe that it runs down into the main sewer - and flushes out - and into the sewer. I've used my cutrent Zoeller sump pumo for some for 18 to 20 years now. The new one sits in a box for when it requires changing that I will have exactly what I need before hand when the current gies out. But - those pumps do not require those exhaust pipes to attach, it's only if you want or need them to per the use or type of use. You're doing a lot of extra unecessary work. But. It's really just ones preference. Your water level is set way too high on this video, that water fill level should never get any higher than maybe 8 to 10 inches high at most, out of a 26+ inch tall sump pump pit or hole. I'd never set that float to not kick on until that water got as high as you have it. You need to change that setting in the float. Also, id never drill a vent hole in the pvc either, it's not necessary. The pump has one already.
you must be pumping out a hole bathroom with this system? Maybe a 2" dis. line would handle the large volume you have from your 3-pipe inlet inside your pit?
sir explained about the sump pump easily and clearly,now I still wonder when you active sump pump the water is drained but I see the water in the 4 inches pipe running back, is it your basement adding a water guards system.Usually I see the pot containing sump pump usually it has holes around so that the rain follows the holes into the pot when the water is full the sump pump automatically pushes the water out, why does the pot of sump pump have 4 inche pipes that's me question please explain thank you very much
I purchased a Zoeller without the built in switch as that seems to be culprit in most sump pump failures. The sump pump then plugs in to the separate switch plug. I then use a water siphon as backup. If the switch fails then I can replace that in just a few minutes.
Unfortunately we live in a raised ranch and our family room is on the same level as the sump pump so battery back up is a must. I’m assuming you must have installed a backup power supply to your home since you only have the one sump. I’m installing a battery back up and pray it works as described to keep our family room water free
I assumed a redundant system is preferred. If 1 pump fails, and least you can empty the basin with the other pump and flush it once or twice before working on it. Like in the case of a sewage ejector pump in the basement.
The reason that most sump pump pits are sealed is because the house also has a radon gas mitigation system (which creates a negative pressure on your slab and sucks the air/gas from your pit/drain tile and exhausts to below your roofline)
Thanks for posting this. I had been wondering the same thing. My last house didn't have a sealed cover, but it also didn't come with a radon mitigation system. New house is sealed. I'll be sure to reseal after replacing my pump.
The thing to do with Zoellers is to not rely on their switches. Put the float lever in the "up" position and get an electronic float switch. That not only avoids the Zoeller switch problem but lets you allow the pump to turn on at a higher water level, avoiding the frequent on-off cycle which is what burns out switches.
I'm curious if 1/2hp pump is enough for a high demand use case? We get a ton of water thru the pit due to runoff from the hill behind our back yard (mostly sloped). Our grading away from the house is fine, but during periods of heavy rain the existing pump seems to run almost constantly. Duty cycle is a big concern. I'm going to pull the existing pump to see if there is product plate with hp and watthr info (not original owner, no documentation) first, but I just know the new pump I put in will work hard.
Although the pump itself is probably great, I have an issue with having the attached, non-adjustable, switch. My parents had the same model and it would cycle "constantly" because it would empty the pit very quick and would then refill quick. I think this caused the switch to get stuck in the on position. I repaired it by tieing the integrated float in the up position and adding a wire float switch. I have had good luck with the wire float switches, at least the models I have purchased, and you can get the pump to run longer by letting it fill the pit higher, although figuring out the amount of cord to the switch to get a good level is tricky.
@@IH8CA It would cycle frequently because the float switch height between off and on was too short. It would empty the pit then quickly fill back up and turn back on. What the wire float also did was let the turn on high level be higher than the integrated switch, it may be closer to the natural ground water level in the area. The only way to adjust the level higher on the integrated switch would be to block up the whole pump.
@@schGjS Good deal. I put two check valves in (used to work in aviation, can't help it), and for now i'm just monitoring it but I did order a float switch. Thanks again for the help, good luck!
Good video and good job with one caveat. With that situation, I would have a second pump in that pit no ifs ands or buts especially if there were any worthwhile belongings in there.
You had the exact the exact system I currently have and have been thinking of an alternative, so thank you! Had you investigated a water powered backup (providing you have public water)?
M-98 is the best pump on the market! You are correct about finding the cast iron one. Something to think about with the backup power supply. I would be interested to see how long it would last in a storm with having lost power.
I understand that the focus of this video is about the new sump pump installation. But I noticed that the AC outlet where your sump pump is connected seems to be a very standard one. I hope for you that it is powered by a Ground Fault Protection circuit breaker in the main panel. This is the most important place in a house for a GFP outlet since you may have your feet in the water sometimes. Your life depends on it !
That is normal / typical. According to NEC and most local electrical codes, sump pumps do not require a GFCI outlet (or breaker). Not sure why exactly, since ground fault protection is required in kitchens and bathrooms, and outdoor outlets. Sump pumps do typically need to be on their own circuit however - not to be shared with other outlets or loads that might trip a breaker and disable your pump.
I recommend Wayne pumps over Zoeller, I’ve had both. Wayne also doesn’t require a weep hole so no mess form spray and also quieter. Replace the check valve every time you replace a pumpnis a good rule. Zoeller check valves are probably the best. I also recommend BasePump as a backup, does not require electricity to operate as long as you have municipal water.
Wayne pumps draw way less current than Zoeller. That M98 draws 9.8 running amps! Many people have 15 amp circuits. You'd better have it on a dedicated line, and forget about running a backup pump on the same circuit. The Wayne 1/2 HP cast iron draws only 3.8 running amps and pumps 3840 GPH at 10 ft head vs 3660 for the Zoeller.
Agreed. I bought one about five years ago to replace an old Zoeller. Switch died after a year, so I started exploring solid state switches, as the switch is always the weak point imo. Tried Levelguard, ended up going with the Hydrocheck 6600. It's been rock solid ever since. Along with the Zoeller inline check valve it's quiet and just works. I bought a second Hydrocheck on the shelf along with a pre plumbed Ion Storm Pro ready to go when this one fails.
I would go with a generator to power that sump pump and your furnace. I have a whole house Generac and and it comes in handy when its 10 degrees F. out. You will stay warm and your basement wont flood.
Based upon my experience, I think it's a really bad idea to suggest people eliminate an already existing and operational backup system. Unless you're always home and ready to correct any problem, that could quickly result in a flooded basement. Our sump pump has failed at least twice over the 12 years or so we've lived here. Thankfully, we have a water powered siphon as an emergency backup system. That system doesn't require electric power at all, so it's perfect to have during power outages or in the event of a sump pump failure. Since we've had problems, I also keep a spare pump handy. However, without an operational backup system already installed and ready to go, when needed, we would've had several inches of water in our basement when the pump had failed. PS: Our current sump pump is a Wayne brand unit. It came with a 5-year warranty, which worked out well for us because the float switch failed at less than 2 years old. Wayne replaced it without the need for me to ship the bad one to them. Since the warranty replacement cost nothing, I'll stick with it. However, if I ever need to pay for a replacement pump in the future, I may look at other options.
Just had a basement full of water because we failed to have a backup pump. People take it from me spend 250 bucks and get a decent backup pump. We caught it fast and only had 1/3 an inch of water on sealed concrete so isn’t any big deal but could’ve been
Excellent video. It looks like the fittings on your discharge pipe are schedule 40, I was under the impression, for a pressurized line schedule 80 fittings were required. Is that possible a local code issue?
My pump just failed it’s bern use 20 years , I had a spare which I dropped in , but I had a bunch of oil in the water from the failed pump , can I put dawn dish soap in the water ?My pump has to be going 24/7 there are underground springs which drain water always
How is M98 working, I saw lot of complains about switch going bad every now and then. I am looking to buy one but wanted to see how is it working for you.
Zoeller M98 (Best Pump!): amzlink.to/az0EPUkoBYarE
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
As a plumber, I would endorse this video. Everything he said is correct for this install.
Thanks for the feedback Sam 👍
My dad had installed a sump pump and I remember helping trench in a discharge pipe all the way down the driveway and out into the ditch that runs in front of their house this was like 80 feet down. The slope was easily 1/4" a foot, and we cut a little hole through the cinder block about 4' up the wall. Well when the pump kicked in and we discovered something we had not calculated. The water flow was so great, it created a siphon in the line and when the pump shut off, the siphon was still drawing water from the pit for minutes after the pump stopped. Then you would get that sound that you hear when a kid is trying to suck every last drop of soda out of the bottom of a glass. All I did the job it emptied the pit and the pump didn't have to run as much because the siphon would help out
Great luck. I've been trying to create a suction effect such that the pump itself doesn't have to cycle as often. Unfortunately, I don't have a long enough discharge run.
Thank you for your video. I installed a new pump by myself & saved myself alot of money.
Love the video. Something clicked for me when watching. My pump that installed a few years ago was VERY noisy. I thought I installed it wrong, but turns out it was just the crappy check valve doing water hammer action. I bought the clear one you linked here and it is now silent! Wow. what a difference. Thank you.
Yes, I also installed a clear Zoller check valve and that put a stop to the pipe clunk after each pump cycle.
Thank You This was my first time installing a sump pump.
Where I live, we always have a backup pump to the main pump. In most cases we use water jets that use house water pressure and require no power, just in case of power loss (Liberty Pumps). I love Zoeller M98 pumps and have a second backup pre-plumbed with a check valve sitting by ready to install in less than 15 minutes, should the main one fail. Last thing you want is a failure, can't get a replacement and have to rely on your backup for extended periods. We all know they only fail in the middle of the night when stores are not open. ;)
Tip... always set the pump on a couple bricks so it is above the bottom of the well and keeps most dirt away from the intake. The well should be cleaned out every year.
+1 for the Liberty Pump water jet backup. Installed several over the years for myself, relatives, and friends. More involved to install given the water hookup - but great not having to worry about charged batteries or slow flow backup pumps.
Very informative, down to Earth presentation. Practical and easy to understand.
The only things I would do differently is to install a Zoeller check valve (30-0238) directly into the pump, then connect the PVC tube at that location. This check valve already has a weep hole, and that would save time drilling one into the pipe.
I'd also want to position the pump so the incoming water isn't directed at the float.
Here at home I have an SEC voltage inverter for a backup for my main pump. And, even though it would add some complexity, I'd still add a battery powered backup pump. As reliable (or unreliable) as any main pump and an inverter can be, it wouldn't hurt to have a second pump ready to go into action if the main one conks out.
Thank you for idea using Zoeller check valve connecting directly to sump pump...
For my home I had a water powered back up sump pump installed that saved me from basement flooding at least 3 times. The pump motors always worked it was the switches that failed over time.
Thank you for this. My sump pump went burned up yesterday. This is great!!
I'm actually replacimng the sump pump myself this weekend. My basement flooded. The warranty company is dragging the process and I can't wait any longer. It will actually cost me less to do it myself than what I will pay out of pocket with warranty involved. Thank you!
Warranty companies are always a scam. I hope you learned your lesson.
This start to make a better sense. The hole on the PVC also is a great idea. It is very nice unit. Thank you for sharing
I need the hole motivation spelled out a bit more explicitly. Is the problem that the column of water over the check valve keeps it closed so the air, pushed weakly by the impeller in its bubble, can't get out of the way and let the water in?
This is a really great install for many reasons:
1) no hose clamps below lid keeps them from rusting.
2) spare pump plumbed with discharge pipe already cut to right length and ready to go.
3) alarm system that has intelligent monitoring and works remotely when you are not home.
The only thing I’d do differently is use a non switched pump model with a separate switch using a piggyback plug. That way when the switch fails it can bypassed by plugging the pump in directly to troubleshoot. I use the Levelguard switch myself.
Use stainless hose clamps to avoid rust problems. Use a magnet to check whether the clamp screws are stainless. Some places stock them as stainless but they're not and they'll rust in a couple years and release tension. Usually, the places selling the clamps with standard screws is done out of incompetence not deception.
Can you explain this piggyback plug a bit more and why you should have one, seems pretty important, and what brand has one, thanks
Thanks for the video about sump pumps. Your video was informative and showed several sump pump installations. There are some other options that might be useful for some viewers.
Wayne Sump Pumps: Another good brand of sump pumps is Wayne. I have used Wayne pumps in my house since 1986. I normally get 5 to 7 years out of these pumps.
I buy the all cast iron pumps - I have had a hybrid cast iron/plastic pump once - the plastic was the case for the actual pump - the motor/switch was cast iron. The plastic eventually cracked which made the pump to leak and stop pumping. The all cast iron pumps cost a few dollars more but are more rugged than the iron/plastic hybrid pump.
Wayne pumps are also sold under other brands such as Campbell Hausfeld and Ace. Can tell the Wayne pumps by the design of the switch on top of the pump.
Need to have the pump sized for your application. It is just as bad to get a too big of pump as too small.
GFCI Outlet. The sump pump should be on its own GFCI outlet that way the only thing tripping the outlet is the sump pump. The GFCI outlet compares the current on the hot to the current on the neutral. If the current difference is more than 0.005 amps ( 5 milliapms) - the outlet will trip. When the outlet trips - this means that the pump is starting to fail and it is time to replace.
LED Nite Light: I plug the pump into one side of the outlet and an LED night light into the other side. The nite light is the switch, not light triggered, type. The nite lights are cheap, do not use much electricity, reliable, and show that the outlet is on. If the light is out, the GFCI outlet has tripped and the sump pump needs to be checked.
Stand Alone Sump Pump Alarm: I have a sump pump alarm that triggers when the water rises above the alarm sensor. I just tape the sensor at the desired position on the tube from the sump pump. The alarm is just as loud as a fire detector. The alarms are under $20 - I bought mine at Home Depot.
Spare Sump Pump: I have a complete spare sump pump set up that is ready to install. I used some spa hose and agricultural water connectors to connect the sump pump to the drain hose/pipe. This allows me to change out the sump pump without tools (in the middle of the night if required). One wet year, I had to buy an off brand of sump pumps since all of the good pumps were sold out. With a spare pump, I have time to get a replacement.
Spare Check Valve: The check valve is one of the least reliable parts of a sump pump set up. I always have a spare to replace a worn out check valve. Cheap insurance. If the check valve fails, the sump will have a short cycle since the water will back fill the sump.
I wasn't aware of the weep hole. AWESOME video!
Great job. U are a great teacher. U have so much patience in ur demonstration. Blessings to u and ur family. Love u my brother.
I would never rely on switching out the pumps during a failure or switching to the battery supply during a power outage. What if I'm not home? For something that you don't generally need to mess with, the complexity of a battery powered backup seems worth it to me. But I agree 💯 on Zoeller.
my thoughts exactly, we are away from the house way to much to not have the battery backup permanently installed in the pit.
Good job drilling the vent hole. The vent in the discharge pipe is not just in case the one in the pump gets clogged. It's to expel trapped air out of the discharge pipe. The vent hole in the pump is to expel trapped air out of the pump housing. Both are necessary for reliable pumping. You'd be surprised how many "professionals" think they are not necessary.
Good video. I would recommend you rotate the pump so that the float is not directly in line with either of the 4-inch corrugated inlets.
Your previous video reminded me to go take some measurements and do some checks before the rains come. Bought a new pump and battery backup pump combo kit and installing it this week. Should be fairly straightforward. And I'll keep current pump as additional backup.
Your videos are honestly such a lifesaver.
Happy to help 🙌
Really good video, learned so much from it. I was able to direct my handyman to install the weep hole etc. Keep making videos like this. Thanks again!
I had to binge a bunch of do it yourself sump pump install videos and yours was by far the most informative! Apprwciate you!
Thanks for the feedback!
Great video, Scott! I'm happy I live on the 3rd floor!
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Great video with excellent explanations. I have a lot of water drainage into my sump. I mostly use Liberty pumps which have been very reliable. However one of my biggest fears is to have my pump stop working and flood the basement. So I had a Liberty SJ10 water powered system installed as a backup. While I don't like having to use good water to displace bad, I do not have to worry about a failing battery with a battery backup. I have a spare new sump pump with a new check valve in standby that I can replace in 15 minutes if needed. I also have my home alarm system tied into my sump so I know if the main pump is not working. Probably major overkill but I sleep well and can go out of town without worry. Thanks
Thank you for all the great information especially on the weep hole explanation. The first time I read about a weep hole I did not take the time to reread and understand. But your explanation was more cocise and actually showing it as opposed to a drawing explains it much better.
I have watched so many people angle the drilled hole, downward... but never seen any actually spray downward... that water comes out perpendicular to the pipe. [I have seen airlocked pumps, running like mad, with no water leaving. The vent hole is important.]
This pump is overkill for 99% of homes. (I have one of these) First of all, it pulls a 10-11 amp load when running which is HIGH. Plus the startup surge is between 25-30 amps so you might not want this on a 15 amp line as if that breaker trips, you may not know and have a flooded basement. It can pump something like 85 gallons a minute which is a lot. WAY MORE than you'll ever need. Go with their smaller M53 and be able to sleep at night.
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@@georgefromdownthehall3334You laugh, he’s right lol
Thank you for this.
Its not overkill!! Youre relying on it to not flood your basement!!
@@AngeloR674 I don’t think you understand what he’s saying. If you have this on a 15a run which is most likely 12 gauge wire sometimes even 14 you’re drawing 10awg amperage on a 12-14awg wire which will cause it to trip or heat up the wire.
TIP: your PVC has three 90 degree bends like mine did, I changed mine by going straight up with a 45 degree bend to the outside, less 90 degree elbow bends, less resistance to the water flow. I also changed to a ball float switch, the fixed float switches don't provide enough on/off levels, they tend to cycle too much between on/off . I set my ball float cord about 6" out to get rid of 8" of water, not 4 or 5".
A wheep hole is not necessary with a quality sump pump!
@@AngeloR674 Zoeller M95 has in large print on the box about the need for a 3/16" weep hole and refers customer to the install manual. Which I'll prolly read some day.
I didn't know much about sump pumps prior to this video. Thank you for the education.
You bet!
Good pump but if you know pumps the weak link in that pump is the switch, buy a spare and store it with the pump
I got a spare the last time I replace mine.
Perfect. Just what I needed, Thank you!
Great video, Dude. Appreciate all the information!!! 😎😎😎
Everbilt is a good brand as well. We replaced my older pump from the 90's. I had to get a small paver to rest the pump since the last guy didnt add one. My pump died because it sucked in dirt.
I have the Watch Dog System, other than checking the Battery every other month, not much to do. Things I like about this system, is it exercises the Pumps, so they don’t lock up during a dry spell. Also the Main Pump has an off Time Delay so it pumps the pit down further after the Float drops.
Timely, I just installed a Zoeller pump with a basement watchdog battery backup unit. I noticed your original setup had the two pvc pipes merge below the check valve. Basement watchdog doesn’t show that but I plumbed mine the way you had your original.
Any thoughts on that?
Also, I put in a “quiet” check valve and they are awesome, very quiet, no more valve bang.
Awesome detail but not overly talkative. About to change my sump now. Thanks
Thank you, sir. Living in the south and one of the few people with a basement. Have yet to find a repair man/ plumber that is familiar with this.
Great video Scott.
I also live in the Midwest and my basement could be subject to RADON gas.
For a future video, you may wish to show the install of a leak tight sump pump cover and also a radon gas pump system.
Thanks for some great content.
Great video and detailed as usual. My only worry with your setup is if you are on vacation for 2-3 weeks and the power goes out during a big storm. Do you end up with a flooded basement.
I would rotate the pump counter clockwise, so that the 4" discharge won't flow onto the float. Dunno, if I'm paranoid, but my logic is that,the water pouring on top could stop the pump by not allowing it to come up to full height.
got into that exact issue earlier today. Float switch was stuck with toilet paper coming right from the inlet just above. Reset it but need to reposition the pump so that doesn't keep on happening
I have the grinder version of that pump and had the same thought however fearing toilet paper weight on the float. There is way more to consider when installing a sump than many would consider.
I picked one up off Grainger Industrial Supply, which I know doesn't support the channel but made me more comfortable getting what I expected.
One pro tip, bud. The internal switches on these go bad like crazy. They are underdesigned to handle the arcing that will occur each time it switches on. What you need to do is buy a solid state switch which takes out all chance of mechanical failure. You then zip tie the float so the pump is in the always on position and attach the solid state switch to your cord. Now the unit will only recieve power when the solid state switch detects water wherever you have mounted it. Zoeller and LevelGuard have one that works like I said but are kinda pricy. There's a different one by Roamoris AC that I haven't looked into but is much cheaper but seems to use a different setup. Probably worth checking out.
Have you looked into the water powered backup system? That is the one that I currently use and so far it works great.
I didn't price out the system yet but that is a pretty common setup in my area for the new builds. Not a bad plan.
I just learned something new. Thanks.
Very instructive video; great work and thank you!
Great video! Thanks for clearly explaining this install.
I swapped my check valve to the one you used about a year ago because my unit was constantly air hammering. haven't had that problem since. getting ready to put in a proper pit.
Very interesting! I don't have a sump pump, but your clear explanation of the replacement was enjoyable and informative. Great video, as always-- keep them coming, sir!
Thanks, appreciate the support
Helpful video. But one concern... I had a sump pump installed in a previous house. By a leading, sump pump only nationwide outfit. It worked great and it had an open cover like yours. Prior to the sump pump install my radon level was 2, which was considered good (I'm in the northeast which often has high radon). A year after the sump pump was installed, I decided to test again. The radon level was 10! Equivalent to a pack of cigarettes a day and the second leading cause of lung cancer in Massachusetts. Worse, I had a finished basement with HVAC air returns and that radon gas went all over my house. Needless to say, I redid the cover and my radon level went back to 2. At a minimum you should test for radon and best of all have a sealed cover.
Good info, thanks for the feedback 👍. Probably not a bad idea to check the levels.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs There are electronic radon testers available for less than $150 which provide continuous monitoring. More convenient than the old style use once charcoal testers that you need to send to a lab. It's interesting how the radon level increases with rain.
I know I am late to this video, but if your structure is subject to unacceptable levels of radon, you will probably want to consider sealing the sump basin lid. Some lids have an access port (which might double as a large removable knockout) so you can see what is happening inside the basin.
If I was putting in a new pump I would also change the check valve(s) just to be on the save side. A new pump won’t work with a soon to bad check valve ?
Good info and thanks.
My zoeller m98 pump float switch failed after 10 years of service, At that point I purchased the identical pump & an additional float switch. Installed the new switch in the old pump & stored it for future failure. Switch was inexpensive compared to pump.
Also using a water backup pump, as power & water are seldom out together. Purchased the basepump model, works as designed.
I might get an additional switch and keep it for a quick swap after any future failures. Sounds like the switch is the weak link on a Zoeller pump.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsbuy any brand tether switch with a piggyback plug. Bypass your switch and add this one.
Excellent video. Very informative, this an a few others helped me do this on my own two days ago. Easily the best on.
great episode, thanks so much
You bet!
I put a flooding alarm in the upper part of the sump, it just makes a loud noise. If I were to travel, then I'd invest in an alarm with wifi and a contractor to come in to do the mitigation.
I keep a small, portable sump pump with hose that fits it hung on the wall next to the sump, long enough to go out the basement window and to the street.
I use this portable pump for various pumping tasks, like the pool sump, so it pays for itself already. it pulls small enough load that I can run it off an inverter which I keep in our car for blackout emergencies.
Not a bad plan, thanks for the feedback 👍
The best set up probably would have been a main pump and a secondary with battery backup.
Your idea sounds okay and much cleaner though with that smart outlet to notify you of issues
The M53 and N53 Zoellars used to be a good pump. After having two on the job Failures, I opened the pumps up. They eliminated the Top Ball Bearing for a Sleeve Bearing.
Is it still possible to purchase the older models with the faulty bearing? I don't want a zoeller prone to failing.
Running it in duplex was smart, on commercial jobs there's a controller box to alternate which one is running to make wear more even on both of them. I'd have ran both sumps independently to the discharge check with each pump having its own check valve.
Great video. Thank you!
Thanks for the video...My problem is my house has a 1" pipe. Plus no way to take it apart without cutting the pipe. PVC pipe comes out of the sump pump once out of the basin, goes 90 degrees for about 2.5 ft then 90 degrees, then straight up 9ft, then 90 degree towards the outside of my house about a 1.5ft. For now I am going to get an adapter for 1.5" to a 1" to get the pump working. Later this summer I will replace the 1" with a 1.5" PVC pipe, put a check valve, and have it go straight up then 90 degree towards the outside. I also saw a video where they put a "T" adapter on the pipe outside. This way if it freezes you can unscrew it so the water discharges still. I did not do this. I had the pipe coming outside then 90 degree down for 1.5ft then 90 degree for about 30ft to a pop up drain away from the house. My house was built in 2013 in Eastern Missouri.
Loved the video!
I live in a swamp forest, and we have a lot of clay in our soil, way more than I've ever seen. So, the sumps don't last very long and additionally the discharge pipes end up getting lined with clay.
When I moved in a few years ago, my neighbor warned me about this - he said you need to clean out the discharge pipes every so often. I of course did not listen and my basement flooded as a result. I had a plumber come out and replace the sump and he showed me the old discharge pipe - that 1.5" pipe had probably 1/4" effective due to the clay build-up.
This is great info. I've been an insurance agent for 4 years and buying my first home. Water claims are AWFUL to work with... I want to make sure I have a great setup so I'll never have to file a water claim
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All that water dumping on the floater looks like a good way to wear out the floater quicker than it should.
I have your M98 Zoeller Sump Pump, exactly same as yours from Lowes, it is not a cheaper version, it is the exact same, solid cast iron, green, M98, bought it 8 years ago, just to have it on hand, so its a extra still in the box. It must have been before they went to a less expensive model because its identical to yours and whats in my sump pump now. You do not have to connect those pvc water emptying exhaust pipes to the sump pump, mine just sits down inside my Sump Pump, while the other pvc pipe pumps out tbe water up to and above the main sewer pipe that it runs down into the main sewer - and flushes out - and into the sewer. I've used my cutrent Zoeller sump pumo for some for 18 to 20 years now. The new one sits in a box for when it requires changing that I will have exactly what I need before hand when the current gies out. But - those pumps do not require those exhaust pipes to attach, it's only if you want or need them to per the use or type of use. You're doing a lot of extra unecessary work. But. It's really just ones preference. Your water level is set way too high on this video, that water fill level should never get any higher than maybe 8 to 10 inches high at most, out of a 26+ inch tall sump pump pit or hole. I'd never set that float to not kick on until that water got as high as you have it. You need to change that setting in the float. Also, id never drill a vent hole in the pvc either, it's not necessary. The pump has one already.
you must be pumping out a hole bathroom with this system? Maybe a 2" dis. line would handle the large volume you have from your 3-pipe inlet inside your pit?
sir explained about the sump pump easily and clearly,now I still wonder when you active sump pump the water is drained but I see the water in the 4 inches pipe running back, is it your basement adding a water guards system.Usually I see the pot containing sump pump usually it has holes around so that the rain follows the holes into the pot when the water is full the sump pump automatically pushes the water out, why does the pot of sump pump have 4 inche pipes that's me question please explain thank you very much
What sized backup battery does the sump pump in your video need? Thanks for a very thorough video!
Never mind, found your video that goes answers my question; ruclips.net/video/OUORe_hZ1_c/видео.html
I purchased a Zoeller without the built in switch as that seems to be culprit in most sump pump failures. The sump pump then plugs in to the separate switch plug. I then use a water siphon as backup. If the switch fails then I can replace that in just a few minutes.
Thanks for the feedback Gary, I will continue to think through my setup What model Zoeller did you get?
Unfortunately we live in a raised ranch and our family room is on the same level as the sump pump so battery back up is a must. I’m assuming you must have installed a backup power supply to your home since you only have the one sump. I’m installing a battery back up and pray it works as described to keep our family room water free
That pump you installed is for shallow well .I installed one and cycled constantly .I installed one with floating sw. cord.
Hey Anthony, what brand / model did you install? Thanks for the feedback.
I assumed a redundant system is preferred. If 1 pump fails, and least you can empty the basin with the other pump and flush it once or twice before working on it. Like in the case of a sewage ejector pump in the basement.
I did the same - Zoeller M98, I believe the Best Pump you can buy
The reason that most sump pump pits are sealed is because the house also has a radon gas mitigation system
(which creates a negative pressure on your slab and sucks the air/gas from your pit/drain tile and exhausts to below your roofline)
Thanks for posting this. I had been wondering the same thing. My last house didn't have a sealed cover, but it also didn't come with a radon mitigation system. New house is sealed. I'll be sure to reseal after replacing my pump.
You'll need that backup plan when the float switch fails. Major zoeller problem these days. Hope it doesn't happen to you! 🤞
The thing to do with Zoellers is to not rely on their switches. Put the float lever in the "up" position and get an electronic float switch. That not only avoids the Zoeller switch problem but lets you allow the pump to turn on at a higher water level, avoiding the frequent on-off cycle which is what burns out switches.
@@frankm2588 for what they cost, they should provide a reliable float switch
How is it going?. Thank you~totall unreal - Everyday,
I'm curious if 1/2hp pump is enough for a high demand use case? We get a ton of water thru the pit due to runoff from the hill behind our back yard (mostly sloped). Our grading away from the house is fine, but during periods of heavy rain the existing pump seems to run almost constantly. Duty cycle is a big concern. I'm going to pull the existing pump to see if there is product plate with hp and watthr info (not original owner, no documentation) first, but I just know the new pump I put in will work hard.
Your water table is steady which is why it wasn't rising. Only until the pump kicked in you saw water equalizing with the water table.
Although the pump itself is probably great, I have an issue with having the attached, non-adjustable, switch. My parents had the same model and it would cycle "constantly" because it would empty the pit very quick and would then refill quick. I think this caused the switch to get stuck in the on position. I repaired it by tieing the integrated float in the up position and adding a wire float switch. I have had good luck with the wire float switches, at least the models I have purchased, and you can get the pump to run longer by letting it fill the pit higher, although figuring out the amount of cord to the switch to get a good level is tricky.
Did it have an inline check valve installed? Or was it constantly cycling without one?
@@IH8CA It would cycle frequently because the float switch height between off and on was too short. It would empty the pit then quickly fill back up and turn back on. What the wire float also did was let the turn on high level be higher than the integrated switch, it may be closer to the natural ground water level in the area. The only way to adjust the level higher on the integrated switch would be to block up the whole pump.
@@schGjS Thanks Gary, I appreciate the help. It's been a wet one here in Utah, i'm hoping this pump will hold on.
@@IH8CA I forgot to include that it does have a check valve installed. We have had a pretty wet couple of weeks in WI too.
@@schGjS Good deal. I put two check valves in (used to work in aviation, can't help it), and for now i'm just monitoring it but I did order a float switch. Thanks again for the help, good luck!
The covers that seal are meant to keep out radon, BTW.
I should have mentioned I have a Radon remediation system close to the pit. Thanks for the feedback.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs when my radon system was installed, they actually are the ones who added the sealed sump cover.
My M98 blew it's capacitor after a few years. Easy enough to replace, but I expected better quality from Zoeller.
That's not encouraging to hear ☹️ Thanks for the feedback
m-98's have a 3 year warranty, Your issue is not typical
Good video and good job with one caveat. With that situation, I would have a second pump in that pit no ifs ands or buts especially if there were any worthwhile belongings in there.
You had the exact the exact system I currently have and have been thinking of an alternative, so thank you!
Had you investigated a water powered backup (providing you have public water)?
Well I never heard of a water-powered backup pump but it does sound interesting
M-98 is the best pump on the market! You are correct about finding the cast iron one. Something to think about with the backup power supply. I would be interested to see how long it would last in a storm with having lost power.
Not long enough. That's why I have a generator and 2 pumps.
I am interested as well, I will be doing a little testing in the near future and will put the findings on the channel. 👍
Great video
Excellent!
I understand that the focus of this video is about the new sump pump installation. But I noticed that the AC outlet where your sump pump is connected seems to be a very standard one.
I hope for you that it is powered by a Ground Fault Protection circuit breaker in the main panel.
This is the most important place in a house for a GFP outlet since you may have your feet in the water sometimes. Your life depends on it !
That is normal / typical. According to NEC and most local electrical codes, sump pumps do not require a GFCI outlet (or breaker). Not sure why exactly, since ground fault protection is required in kitchens and bathrooms, and outdoor outlets. Sump pumps do typically need to be on their own circuit however - not to be shared with other outlets or loads that might trip a breaker and disable your pump.
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@@billjohnson3344WRONG
The water coming in the hole from the 4” pipe. Where is that water coming from?
I recommend Wayne pumps over Zoeller, I’ve had both. Wayne also doesn’t require a weep hole so no mess form spray and also quieter. Replace the check valve every time you replace a pumpnis a good rule. Zoeller check valves are probably the best. I also recommend BasePump as a backup, does not require electricity to operate as long as you have municipal water.
Wayne pumps draw way less current than Zoeller. That M98 draws 9.8 running amps! Many people have 15 amp circuits. You'd better have it on a dedicated line, and forget about running a backup pump on the same circuit. The Wayne 1/2 HP cast iron draws only 3.8 running amps and pumps 3840 GPH at 10 ft head vs 3660 for the Zoeller.
@@frankm2588 I forgot about that, excellent point
Agreed. I bought one about five years ago to replace an old Zoeller. Switch died after a year, so I started exploring solid state switches, as the switch is always the weak point imo. Tried Levelguard, ended up going with the Hydrocheck 6600. It's been rock solid ever since. Along with the Zoeller inline check valve it's quiet and just works. I bought a second Hydrocheck on the shelf along with a pre plumbed Ion Storm Pro ready to go when this one fails.
I've heard of some people attaching the check valve right to the pump
I would go with a generator to power that sump pump and your furnace. I have a whole house Generac and and it comes in handy when its 10 degrees F. out. You will stay warm and your basement wont flood.
How is this sump pump working so far? Still good? Thanks for the video
Those built in zoeller floats suck. I bought same thing but without float and use a digital water lever sensor and works amazing
Also use water backup system basepump. Works awsome
Based upon my experience, I think it's a really bad idea to suggest people eliminate an already existing and operational backup system. Unless you're always home and ready to correct any problem, that could quickly result in a flooded basement. Our sump pump has failed at least twice over the 12 years or so we've lived here. Thankfully, we have a water powered siphon as an emergency backup system. That system doesn't require electric power at all, so it's perfect to have during power outages or in the event of a sump pump failure. Since we've had problems, I also keep a spare pump handy. However, without an operational backup system already installed and ready to go, when needed, we would've had several inches of water in our basement when the pump had failed.
PS: Our current sump pump is a Wayne brand unit. It came with a 5-year warranty, which worked out well for us because the float switch failed at less than 2 years old. Wayne replaced it without the need for me to ship the bad one to them. Since the warranty replacement cost nothing, I'll stick with it. However, if I ever need to pay for a replacement pump in the future, I may look at other options.
Just had a basement full of water because we failed to have a backup pump. People take it from me spend 250 bucks and get a decent backup pump. We caught it fast and only had 1/3 an inch of water on sealed concrete so isn’t any big deal but could’ve been
Excellent video. It looks like the fittings on your discharge pipe are schedule 40, I was under the impression, for a pressurized line schedule 80 fittings were required. Is that possible a local code issue?
Love the video
My pump just failed it’s bern use 20 years , I had a spare which I dropped in , but I had a bunch of oil in the water from the failed pump , can I put dawn dish soap in the water ?My pump has to be going 24/7 there are underground springs which drain water always
What’s the amp draw on the M98? I read somewhere is over 3,504 watts startup, then 1,128 watts? That seems tremendous.
Do you have any less expensive option.. I do not have a water table problem.. So will most likely never be triggered.. Thank you.
How is M98 working, I saw lot of complains about switch going bad every now and then. I am looking to buy one but wanted to see how is it working for you.