I have to say after watching several of your videos , your a jack of all trades and not afraid to get your hands dirty. I also like how you provide commentary, as you work . plus thank you for not having any horrible music playing in the background :)
I like to watch your videos. Your calm and low-toneed voice make me comfortable and preety detailed step-by-step explanation gives me a lot of information. Thank you. I appreciate them.
In the future you should avoid backfilling with clay around drain lines your basin, and directly under concrete. This can cause heaving and dislodge or crush the system. It's recommended to have gravel come in direct contact with the system even on a solid pipe.
im not a mason nor a carpenter, but i enjoyed your video, i can tell you are a professional and pay attention to detail, something many of our youth are lacking unless they have a true journeyman to teach them. thanks for sharing your knowledge
I am going to have to have this type work done in our crawl and too old to do it myself. Have no idea who to trust or the best type system to go with in Va.🦇
Excellent Video! Definitely one of the best! As you are very skilled, you made this process very doable for even those who couldn't imagine where or how to start.
I think it is worth the added expense/aggravation to remove all excavated material and back fill with a clear angular stone. Ideally a 1/4-1/2 inch type. It tamps easier and allows water flow and helps to lock in the crock. Perhaps drilling a few holes in the crock would also aid in easing hydrostatic pressure under the slab. Not a fun job, but also bettter to do it during the dry season as well. I don't envy you.
Nice job. Well explained and executed. One thing you should have done is wetting the edge of the slab before pouring the concrete. It would help the old and new concrete adhere.
I watched many videos and got motivated. I rented the jackhammer and broke the floor. There are so many stones under the concrete floor. Concrete breaking was tough and took me about 8 hours to break. I would break one foot concentrate clean it out then take a 15min break, then do another foot and clean it out then take a break for 15 mins. Then took some longer breaks. My back is hurting like crazy and now I have to dig deep enough to bury the perforated pipe with the stuffed sock on it and there are so many stones... it's so frustrating. I still haven't made a 3 feet hole for the pit. I'll do that tomorrow. This is a very very heavy duty work. I have no idea how I'm gonna remove the pile of concrete and soil from my basement on my own. Only do this if you have got two or three people who can do the heavy duty lifting. It kicked my ass for sure. Never again! Lol
Yeah probably don't do the work unless you know you're physically capable. Trades are hard sometimes man only reason I could handle it is because I'm in the gym often. These guys really make digging and hard work look way easier than it is.
Thanks. It helped me understand a lot about what at pain it is to add a shower to an already finished 1/2 bath in the basement. A lot of stuff that could go wrong doing this on a house that was built in 1979. Its epoxied all over the top and also sealed with silicone.
I bought a house 6 yrs ago that has a sump pump under the crawl space, first time i had problems which wasnt very long after i bought it, had to put in a new pump last owner had installed a lowes cheap one and also the pit was a 5 gal bucket,,according to local plumbing stores in al that is all you need B>S> but i replaced with a zoeller pump that had a float switch that the plumber said would last me forever,,B>S> switch burnt out right after the 3 yr warranty so i rigged it up to stay on all the time and installed with a float switch which worked great but took forever in a 5 gal bucket,but it bought me some time till i bought a little bit bigger zoeller pump of amazon with no switch built into it,then i went under and removed the old crap and cut the sides of the bucket and removed it and then i had bought me a plastic 50 gal drum and had cut the top and bottom out of it around 25 inches high and then started digging around the pit hole which was fairly easy and then installed the drum into the hole after getting the right depth and then mixed me up some cement in a bucket and dumped it into the center of the barrel till it was around 2 inches thick and then added some bricks around the bottom to provide a rest area for the sump pump to stand on, and then let it dry for a day, then installed my pump with the float valve and also an extra wire on it that i fed up thur the floor behind my refrigerator so that when the sump pump kicks on so does the little light to ensure myself that everything was working,i later on installed a small radio that i turn on and off to alert that the pump is working as well,,,Has been working well for the last 3-4 yrs now just wondering if or when i should replace the pump they say these zoeller pumps last 10-20 yrs but the ones with the electric switches are their weak point so i eliminated that part
I just wanted to tell you I liked your video. Very informative the way walked through each step. I can show homeowners this so they can see how much work it is. Thanks
I used to work for a basement waterproofing company in Ontario and now I'm a 4th year apprentice plumber...I've put in my fair share of these things lol.
Excellent video! You a very good job explaining each and every step and that is very helpful. Probably a good idea to suggest that your viewers wear a mask with all that concrete dust and particulate matter in the air - not so good for the lungs.
Hey shannon on our sump we make sure to have holes all around the bottom 3-4 inches above the bottom and use 20-30mm rock with no sand to allow groundwater and lower water to go into the sump as the sump hole for tile is much too high to allow water to go in.
That was a very informative and thorough video. Thank you so much for taking the time and sharing. I have to do this job at my house on a new-build. After watching your video I don't need to check elsewhere. You've covered all of the important information. Thank you once again
First time I've seen a tutorial that didn't use a jackhammer for the entire demo. I like your method of maintaining the clean edges by precutting with the circular saw. Seems like the jackhammer made more dust than the saw.
You seem like you would be a good boss to work for. The company Im with has us banging out one of these a day with a backwater valve as well and Im working like a beast to dig it all up and mix up the cement, carry it all out in over filled buckets that are back breakingly heavy etc all in about 8 hours. It sucks to be honest. It would be nice to find a boss like yourself who might be slightly more relaxed about it. I think this job could easily be spread over two days with 2 or 3 guys, as opposed to one hectic day. But then again, time is money and my boss wants to get as much as he can I suppose. Lol Good videos though. You always take the time to explain things. You are right up there with the best.
I enjoyed watching this video, Shannon, and it was especially informative because I installed a sump pump liner in my basement quite a few years ago, but did not finish it quite the way you did this one. I live in a flood plain where the water table is high, so when I started to dig a hole for the liner, the hole filled-up with water quite fast, so it made the installation a challenge. I would like to watch your accompanying video on how to install a new sump pump as well. Great video!
Excellent video. Very informative, this an a few others helped me do this on my own. Truly everything I need to know about getting the basin in is in this video. I am holding off on the cement right now, as I think I will dig my basin a bit deeper.
Great video. A kind suggestion, to help increase time, an electric hand held mixer will save lots of time and energy. This is a fantastic video. thank you.
Shannon, if you have time to answer this question, it'd be greatly appreciated. Other than being sure to avoid any pipes in the foundation, is there any specific reason to choose a sump pump hole spot or will any place get the job done, regardless of which part of the basement? Thank you Shannon.
Hi there, I have followed your advice many times and I have done many projects with success. Solid content. Thank you. Question, how do I know where to dig for a sump pump in my basement. I know it goes at the lowest point. How do I know where the lowest point is located in my basement? Please.
Upon changing my sump pump, again, I cleaned the pit/liner first, before installing new sump pump. Also did the weeping hole per Zoeller manual. Pump is a Rigid 1/2 hp I noticed the bottom is cracked. I was quoted $990 to replace the pit. I Google this issue first and found out, that there pit/ liner is suppose to have holes to allow water to come into the pit. And then the pump to eject the water outdoor. So, is the crack at issue then? The water rises to it's previous waterline that it doesn't even trigger the pump at. It used to get trigger to almost an hour, or not at all. Should I leave the crack alone?
All the concrete should be mixed in one batch also you should use a bonding agent to paint on the old work. I did my own sewage ejection Tank and pit, it had been set on clay Someone let the pump fall into the pit causing a crack the pump picked up stone and burnt up. The original plumber did the job wrong and it did not last but a few years. My sewage line is about 4' off the floor the only way to pump water out of the basement is via a sewage pump i also have a bathroom but no working fixtures. A kitchen sink used to drain into it I change how it was plumbed. Never had a problem with it in 23 years. The sewage pump is 10ish years old it only removes water the hvac system makes from the ac. Had a hired a plumber it would have cost me about 5 to 10k Only cost me less then 300 to diy it. Thats pit pump and supply's. And i used pea gravel around and under the pit.
I agree DIYing it saves a ton of cash. I disagree with a couple things you said however. The concrete needing to be mixed as one batch is not true. Mixing more than a couple bags at a time is not convenient and can be difficult to mix well if you're not equip for it. It really does not matter but you want to mix the batches constantly if you can. On large jobs for example it takes more than one truck to deliver the entire job. A bonding agent is not really necessary in a case like this but it would not hurt. We used rebar dowels to keep our patch from moving from the old cement .
Does the weeping tile outlet always need to be above the water line in the pit so that the pump comes on before the water rises enough and cover the weeper outlet ?
My builder did all this installation before I bought...but I've had two pumps fail in 25 year, and when they did, the water in the sump basin seeped back through the hole where the corrugated tubing enters the basin. I have since tried to seal that hole from inside the basin. It isn't easy, but I think it's a good idea to be prepared for pump failure and keep the water from going back under the basement floor.
@@HouseImprovements When the pumps failed and the water rose to the level of the tile, the water seeped back under the basement floor around the outside edge of the tile where it enters its hole in the basin. Nothing kept the water from going backwards either inside or outside the tile. Under normal conditions the water should come in through the inside of the tile and be pumped out. Upon failure of the pump, without intervention, I would expect the water to come in and overflow the basin and not backflow around the edge of the tile hole.
Need some advice. Great video by the way. I want to up a basin in a 30-year-old house that already has a sump well and sump pump that is fed from a drain at the bottom of a sloping down driveway. I would need to put in the holes to align with the drain pipe that feeds the sump well which I think is 1 and 1/2 inch diameter. Any ideas how I can align those holes or wont this work in a pre-existing sump well?
I have a sump basin similar to the one in this video and had to cut a hole for my pipe at the very lowest spot which is about 6-7" from the bottom of the basin. That leaves only that much room for water to rise inside it before the sump has to kick on, is that sufficient enough for the sump pump to operate correctly?
Then your pump engages at a very low level. A pump with a floating ball switch can be set to start at much higher levels so it doesn’t cycle as often. Zip tie the switch wire pivot to a higher spot on the exit pipe
Good job. Make sure to keep the lid installed while pouring and troweling and drying. Ask me how I know. I should have had my sub redo the whole thing. It was embarrassing when the homeowner asked why no lid...
any advice on how to modify my effluent pit lid so I can remove it without having to disconnect the pump piping. This is a septic system effluent pump chamber pit so a lid like yours wont do otherwise the smell will be noticeable even though its in the yard.
What if you don’t have a tile like you have in this application? Drill holes? Cut off the bottom? Most houses might not have the luxury of a tile around the foundation
Does the pipe coming from the weeping tile passes underneath the footing or you have to drill a hole in the footing to pass the pipe from the weeping tile to the sump pit ? I want to install a sump pit to an exterior weeping tile system and I was wondering how to connect them together ? Thanks . Great video
Our sump pump was replaced. The plumber placed the new pump on a paver block. However, the paver block has been placed on mud and some gravel. Will the mud still clog the pump even though it rests on a paver block?
Hi folks, I am presently in the process of doing this exact project. 2 questions: #1. do I drill 1 inch holes 6 inches apart in the basin to allow for easier water flow into basin from the water table? because I do this I wrap the basin in landscaping fabric to filter big pieces? thoughts? # 2 I have been told and through research, I am looking at a battery backup system, I am thinking a single pump but with the pump sentry system that flips to battery but only one pump in the pit. I am worried about delivery of the two pump system (breakage) also with the two pump system there is more to manage, more possibilities of malfunction or battery not being charged (me thinking it is) and all hell breaking loose. Any experience with the pump sentry, or vice versa? it is a little more expensive but only about hundred dollars and replacement would be simpler with one pump no?
Hi, Great! very clean job. I am also going to Install a sum pump in our basement it is little old house. I am not sure where the weeping tiles are coming inside the basement or if not coming in then how can I connect that to weeping tiles. I really want to connect that to the tiles. I could not get answer to this anywhere. Do you have any video on this?
I was going to put 3/4 minus under the basin and compress it well , then use drain rock around the perimeter. Was told to pour concrete under the basin . Is that neccesary or overkill, as I see you basically put the liner back in over the dirt in the pit . I’m not running weeping tile ,as I’m drilling holes around the basin to collect the water and hopefully relieve the static pressure under the concrete floor
A crack is no problem. It lets water in. Just like the corrugated pipe or drilled holes. The pump gets rid of the water. Some sand or silt is dealt with by a brick under the pump.
In the house we bought the plastic basin was installed with the top of the tank sitting ABOVE the concrete floor by about 2 inches. Is this a problem? And why in your video do you say you want it flush, or if anything even a bit lower?
Don't you need geo fab around the perforated pipe and gravel as opposed to clay backfill to keep sediment from entering the pipe and/ or clogging the pump?
like your opinion or anyone else reading this . I have a sump pump that goes on and off but the wall behind it has couple of leaks coming in at different spots . I have managed to stop some water coming in with hydraulic cement but then another spot on walk leaks ugh. I would've thought sump pump was keeping water from wall but I guess not . should I put another sump pump in further over so maybe it has chance to suck water in area so maybe it wouldn't come through wall.
Great informative video, thanks! In your video, you tie a single weeping tile into your sump pit. Is this because in newer construction, the perimeter weeping tiles would feed into this one main? I have a house built in 1929 with a centred floor drain with four weeping tiles feeding into it. Could I place the sump pit to capture flow from only one feeder, or would it have to be placed to capture all four weeping tiles feeders?
If you have multiple feeders they should all be in sump pit or multiple sump pits. Many homes have a continuous weeping tile around the entire perimeter and they tie together to one drain.
@@HouseImprovements Thanks for your quick response! Recently had water come into the basement and insurance wants a sump installed. Problem is, the centre floor drain is right in the middle of our family room in the basement.
Hi Shan ! What this black hose for the one connected to the barrel and where to get a barrel also can I install a 5 gallons bucket to avoid this barrel ?
That hose comes from an exterior weeping tile that is buried around the outer perimeter of the basement but comes under the footing and hooks to the sump pit for draining.. You could use a makeshift barrel IMO.
Can I just use a sledgehammer to break out the concrete? I have an old 1956 house and I don't believe there is weeping tile as well but I already have a small hole in my basement floor and when we had some rains in the spring, water started seeping into the hole (we ended up putting a small submersible for a fountain just to keep the water from getting up onto the floor - temporary)
No sand ...just gravel filling ...water needs to draine through ....and in to the bucket with no issues ..... plus ...all you need is a 750w pump with 8 meters head distance....and all sorted 👍
Our house was built in 1992, now the sump pump failed, I’m trying to install a new one,but having a hard time removing the pit lid/cover, it won’t budge,it’s the same lid/cover in this video.
Nice job buddy. I'm installing a Liberty 380 series sewage pump in the basement floor. Can I assume the same basic process for digging and sealing the floor?
Hi Shannon, what do you think about smooth wall sewer basins instead of the corrugated basin for the pit? I'm assuming the dimensions are the same in this question. Thanks
Great video..No Nonsense. Nobody talking just to hear themselves talk..No showing your cat or dog or kids. Thanks
Shannon , I use a respirator when I pour concrete out of the bag . After watching you pour it out into the bucket , I’m glad I do
I have to say after watching several of your videos , your a jack of all trades and not afraid to get your hands dirty. I also like how you provide commentary, as you work . plus thank you for not having any horrible music playing in the background :)
I like to watch your videos. Your calm and low-toneed voice make me comfortable and preety detailed step-by-step explanation gives me a lot of information. Thank you. I appreciate them.
I have ridiculously small sump pit in my house and i knew I had a project like this coming. Thankyou for demonstrating
I want to thank you for your videos! It is still relevant and helpful and will be for many years to come! God bless!
Thanks Shannon, you are truly a great teacher - thanks for being so generous with spending your time to help all of us :)
I'm SO sad you did not publish videos like this ~7 years ago. Great job, very educational. Thanks a lot!
thanks for the comment
In the future you should avoid backfilling with clay around drain lines your basin, and directly under concrete. This can cause heaving and dislodge or crush the system. It's recommended to have gravel come in direct contact with the system even on a solid pipe.
16:02
im not a mason nor a carpenter, but i enjoyed your video, i can tell you are a professional and pay attention to detail, something many of our youth are lacking unless they have a true journeyman to teach them. thanks for sharing your knowledge
This is a great video. I like how you explain things and show techniques. Displaying your work in progress is also nice.
Lol. I did waterproofing for 30 years it was fun watching you doing the work
I am going to have to have this type work done in our crawl and too old to do it myself. Have no idea who to trust or the best type system to go with in Va.🦇
Good video. The sound quality is good because you have a lapel mic attached to your shirt and the audio is very clear. Good job.
Excellent Video! Definitely one of the best! As you are very skilled, you made this process very doable for even those who couldn't imagine where or how to start.
Shannon, thanks for your great videos. You've helped me out a lot over the years as a homeowner.
You are so welcome!
@@HouseImprovements I have learnt soooo many things from your videos over the years! thanks so much and here we go !
I think it is worth the added expense/aggravation to remove all excavated material and back fill with a clear angular stone. Ideally a 1/4-1/2 inch type. It tamps easier and allows water flow and helps to lock in the crock. Perhaps drilling a few holes in the crock would also aid in easing hydrostatic pressure under the slab. Not a fun job, but also bettter to do it during the dry season as well. I don't envy you.
The video shows and speaks for itself. No need for so much description. Thanks.
This guy takes pride in his work!
Nice job. Well explained and executed. One thing you should have done is wetting the edge of the slab before pouring the concrete. It would help the old and new concrete adhere.
I watched many videos and got motivated. I rented the jackhammer and broke the floor. There are so many stones under the concrete floor. Concrete breaking was tough and took me about 8 hours to break. I would break one foot concentrate clean it out then take a 15min break, then do another foot and clean it out then take a break for 15 mins. Then took some longer breaks. My back is hurting like crazy and now I have to dig deep enough to bury the perforated pipe with the stuffed sock on it and there are so many stones... it's so frustrating. I still haven't made a 3 feet hole for the pit. I'll do that tomorrow. This is a very very heavy duty work. I have no idea how I'm gonna remove the pile of concrete and soil from my basement on my own. Only do this if you have got two or three people who can do the heavy duty lifting. It kicked my ass for sure. Never again! Lol
Yeah probably don't do the work unless you know you're physically capable. Trades are hard sometimes man only reason I could handle it is because I'm in the gym often. These guys really make digging and hard work look way easier than it is.
Thanks. It helped me understand a lot about what at pain it is to add a shower to an already finished 1/2 bath in the basement. A lot of stuff that could go wrong doing this on a house that was built in 1979. Its epoxied all over the top and also sealed with silicone.
I bought a house 6 yrs ago that has a sump pump under the crawl space, first time i had problems which wasnt very long after i bought it, had to put in a new pump last owner had installed a lowes cheap one and also the pit was a 5 gal bucket,,according to local plumbing stores in al that is all you need B>S> but i replaced with a zoeller pump that had a float switch that the plumber said would last me forever,,B>S> switch burnt out right after the 3 yr warranty so i rigged it up to stay on all the time and installed with a float switch which worked great but took forever in a 5 gal bucket,but it bought me some time till i bought a little bit bigger zoeller pump of amazon with no switch built into it,then i went under and removed the old crap and cut the sides of the bucket and removed it and then i had bought me a plastic 50 gal drum and had cut the top and bottom out of it around 25 inches high and then started digging around the pit hole which was fairly easy and then installed the drum into the hole after getting the right depth and then mixed me up some cement in a bucket and dumped it into the center of the barrel till it was around 2 inches thick and then added some bricks around the bottom to provide a rest area for the sump pump to stand on, and then let it dry for a day, then installed my pump with the float valve and also an extra wire on it that i fed up thur the floor behind my refrigerator so that when the sump pump kicks on so does the little light to ensure myself that everything was working,i later on installed a small radio that i turn on and off to alert that the pump is working as well,,,Has been working well for the last 3-4 yrs now just wondering if or when i should replace the pump they say these zoeller pumps last 10-20 yrs but the ones with the electric switches are their weak point so i eliminated that part
Can't say for sure , If it does not run often you could test it every month to make sure its working by running water into the pit.
I just wanted to tell you I liked your video. Very informative the way walked through each step. I can show homeowners this so they can see how much work it is. Thanks
Put the buckets on a dolly strap it up and carry them out easier. Helps save some energy.. thanks for the video
Your videos have been a huge help to me in getting into the hardware/construction industries. Thanks for all your work
No problem
I used to work for a basement waterproofing company in Ontario and now I'm a 4th year apprentice plumber...I've put in my fair share of these things lol.
experienced!
Excellent video! You a very good job explaining each and every step and that is very helpful. Probably a good idea to suggest that your viewers wear a mask with all that concrete dust and particulate matter in the air - not so good for the lungs.
Great suggestion!
Hey shannon on our sump we make sure to have holes all around the bottom 3-4 inches above the bottom and use 20-30mm rock with no sand to allow groundwater and lower water to go into the sump as the sump hole for tile is much too high to allow water to go in.
Excellent Vid.Someone that knows what their doing!!
Great, I really like it the way you explain it's very clear big help for my next project on my daughter's house
Nice neat work. The father in law is doing one of these. I wish I lived a little closer, it would be an interesting project.
That was a very informative and thorough video. Thank you so much for taking the time and sharing. I have to do this job at my house on a new-build. After watching your video I don't need to check elsewhere. You've covered all of the important information. Thank you once again
The best handyman ever bro!
First time I've seen a tutorial that didn't use a jackhammer for the entire demo. I like your method of maintaining the clean edges by precutting with the circular saw. Seems like the jackhammer made more dust than the saw.
Love your videos. You've helped both myself and some of my friends. I will always recommend your videos. Thank you for all the hard work making them!
We appreciate people like you who recommend and share our channel with others! Keep spreading the word.
Another great video. It's good when you crack the subtle jokes. It seems to relax the tone a little.
Thanks!
This video was awesome! I'm getting ready to put in a sewage pit in my basement and this video was a big help. Thanks for the great videos!
Glad to help, you're welcome.
You seem like you would be a good boss to work for. The company Im with has us banging out one of these a day with a backwater valve as well and Im working like a beast to dig it all up and mix up the cement, carry it all out in over filled buckets that are back breakingly heavy etc all in about 8 hours. It sucks to be honest. It would be nice to find a boss like yourself who might be slightly more relaxed about it.
I think this job could easily be spread over two days with 2 or 3 guys, as opposed to one hectic day. But then again, time is money and my boss wants to get as much as he can I suppose. Lol
Good videos though. You always take the time to explain things. You are right up there with the best.
I enjoyed watching this video, Shannon, and it was especially informative because I installed a sump pump liner in my basement quite a few years ago, but did not finish it quite the way you did this one. I live in a flood plain where the water table is high, so when I started to dig a hole for the liner, the hole filled-up with water quite fast, so it made the installation a challenge. I would like to watch your accompanying video on how to install a new sump pump as well. Great video!
I wonder in a situation like yours (and maybe mine) if you put a simple bucket in the whole with holes in lower part if it would pump the water out.🦇
@@dustbat I don't know, but it would be worth a try. I should also dig my sump pit a bit deeper too because there is usually some water in the pit.
Excellent video. Very informative, this an a few others helped me do this on my own. Truly everything I need to know about getting the basin in is in this video. I am holding off on the cement right now, as I think I will dig my basin a bit deeper.
Great video. A kind suggestion, to help increase time, an electric hand held mixer will save lots of time and energy. This is a fantastic video. thank you.
Thank. Nice job, great video. You might want to leave the lid on it while the concrete cures just in case it got slightly out of round.
Hmm good idea.
Shannon, if you have time to answer this question, it'd be greatly appreciated. Other than being sure to avoid any pipes in the foundation, is there any specific reason to choose a sump pump hole spot or will any place get the job done, regardless of which part of the basement? Thank you Shannon.
I need to do this exact thing in my basement - move the pit about two feet. Nice video - thanks very much.
So you don't wrap the pipe or the inlet trench to prevent fines from the soil from clogging the pipe over time?
Hi there, I have followed your advice many times and I have done many projects with success. Solid content. Thank you.
Question, how do I know where to dig for a sump pump in my basement. I know it goes at the lowest point. How do I know where the lowest point is located in my basement? Please.
Any advise?
Thanks! Question: should a sump pump basen be perforated ?
You make it look so easy
Upon changing my sump pump, again, I cleaned the pit/liner first, before installing new sump pump.
Also did the weeping hole per Zoeller manual.
Pump is a Rigid 1/2 hp
I noticed the bottom is cracked.
I was quoted $990 to replace the pit.
I Google this issue first and found out, that there pit/ liner is suppose to have holes to allow water to come into the pit. And then the pump to eject the water outdoor.
So, is the crack at issue then?
The water rises to it's previous waterline that it doesn't even trigger the pump at. It used to get trigger to almost an hour, or not at all.
Should I leave the crack alone?
crack in the bottom is not the best but in most cases it will still function but not as well.
@@HouseImprovements much appreciated the response
You did an awesome job. I learned so much from your video. Thank you for taking the time and sharing.
All the concrete should be mixed in one batch also you should use a bonding agent to paint on the old work. I did my own sewage ejection
Tank and pit, it had been set on clay
Someone let the pump fall into the pit causing a crack the pump picked up stone and burnt up.
The original plumber did the job wrong and it did not last but a few years. My sewage line is about 4' off the floor the only way to pump water out of the basement is via a sewage pump i also have a bathroom but no working fixtures.
A kitchen sink used to drain into it
I change how it was plumbed.
Never had a problem with it in 23 years. The sewage pump is 10ish years old it only removes water the hvac system makes from the ac.
Had a hired a plumber it would have cost me about 5 to 10k
Only cost me less then 300 to diy it.
Thats pit pump and supply's.
And i used pea gravel around and under the pit.
I agree DIYing it saves a ton of cash. I disagree with a couple things you said however. The concrete needing to be mixed as one batch is not true. Mixing more than a couple bags at a time is not convenient and can be difficult to mix well if you're not equip for it. It really does not matter but you want to mix the batches constantly if you can. On large jobs for example it takes more than one truck to deliver the entire job.
A bonding agent is not really necessary in a case like this but it would not hurt. We used rebar dowels to keep our patch from moving from the old cement .
Does the weeping tile outlet always need to be above the water line in the pit so that the pump comes on before the water rises enough and cover the weeper outlet ?
Thank you SO MUCH!!! Can't wait to use this education to finally drain Loch Basement.
My builder did all this installation before I bought...but I've had two pumps fail in 25 year, and when they did, the water in the sump basin seeped back through the hole where the corrugated tubing enters the basin. I have since tried to seal that hole from inside the basin. It isn't easy, but I think it's a good idea to be prepared for pump failure and keep the water from going back under the basement floor.
So if you seal that hole how is the weeping tile suppose to work in normal conditions?
@@HouseImprovements When the pumps failed and the water rose to the level of the tile, the water seeped back under the basement floor around the outside edge of the tile where it enters its hole in the basin. Nothing kept the water from going backwards either inside or outside the tile. Under normal conditions the water should come in through the inside of the tile and be pumped out. Upon failure of the pump, without intervention, I would expect the water to come in and overflow the basin and not backflow around the edge of the tile hole.
HOUSEIMPROVEMENTS.... Outstanding video; well done my friend. 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Man I wish I had the confidence to do this job myself. It seems so basic, but cutting my basement floor freaks me out lol.
Same lol
Need some advice. Great video by the way. I want to up a basin in a 30-year-old house that already has a sump well and sump pump that is fed from a drain at the bottom of a sloping down driveway. I would need to put in the holes to align with the drain pipe that feeds the sump well which I think is 1 and 1/2 inch diameter. Any ideas how I can align those holes or wont this work in a pre-existing sump well?
Please copy and paste into my forum and we can work this out there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
@@HouseImprovements done. posted in the plumbing section
i have a house here in michigan out in Farmington hills were i would like to install a pump and basin.could use a few tips.
I have a sump basin similar to the one in this video and had to cut a hole for my pipe at the very lowest spot which is about 6-7" from the bottom of the basin. That leaves only that much room for water to rise inside it before the sump has to kick on, is that sufficient enough for the sump pump to operate correctly?
Then your pump engages at a very low level. A pump with a floating ball switch can be set to start at much higher levels so it doesn’t cycle as often. Zip tie the switch wire pivot to a higher spot on the exit pipe
Thanks for sharing your vedio friend my house 🏠 hasn't sump pump I have to install myself soon
Nice Video sir and a bit of ??Irish brogue?? Excellent video!!
Very helpful, thanks for posting this!
Good job. Make sure to keep the lid installed while pouring and troweling and drying. Ask me how I know. I should have had my sub redo the whole thing. It was embarrassing when the homeowner asked why no lid...
any advice on how to modify my effluent pit lid so I can remove it without having to disconnect the pump piping. This is a septic system effluent pump chamber pit so a lid like yours wont do otherwise the smell will be noticeable even though its in the yard.
You are killing me mixing up in a bucket- mortar pan/ trough
What if you don’t have a tile like you have in this application? Drill holes? Cut off the bottom? Most houses might not have the luxury of a tile around the foundation
Drill holes to allow ground water in.
Does the pipe coming from the weeping tile passes underneath the footing or you have to drill a hole in the footing to pass the pipe from the weeping tile to the sump pit ? I want to install a sump pit to an exterior weeping tile system and I was wondering how to connect them together ? Thanks . Great video
It should go under the footing .
Our sump pump was replaced. The plumber placed the new pump on a paver block. However, the paver block has been placed on mud and some gravel. Will the mud still clog the pump even though it rests on a paver block?
Hey Shannon,
In the next few days will be putting one in my basement.Should I drill holes(Sides) into the pit?
Hi folks, I am presently in the process of doing this exact project. 2 questions: #1. do I drill 1 inch holes 6 inches apart in the basin to allow for easier water flow into basin from the water table? because I do this I wrap the basin in landscaping fabric to filter big pieces? thoughts? # 2 I have been told and through research, I am looking at a battery backup system, I am thinking a single pump but with the pump sentry system that flips to battery but only one pump in the pit. I am worried about delivery of the two pump system (breakage) also with the two pump system there is more to manage, more possibilities of malfunction or battery not being charged (me thinking it is) and all hell breaking loose. Any experience with the pump sentry, or vice versa? it is a little more expensive but only about hundred dollars and replacement would be simpler with one pump no?
I am curious how long distance and hight this solution can manage to pump the water?
Hi, Great! very clean job. I am also going to Install a sum pump in our basement it is little old house. I am not sure where the weeping tiles are coming inside the basement or if not coming in then how can I connect that to weeping tiles. I really want to connect that to the tiles. I could not get answer to this anywhere. Do you have any video on this?
I was going to put 3/4 minus under the basin and compress it well , then use drain rock around the perimeter. Was told to pour concrete under the basin . Is that neccesary or overkill, as I see you basically put the liner back in over the dirt in the pit . I’m not running weeping tile ,as I’m drilling holes around the basin to collect the water and hopefully relieve the static pressure under the concrete floor
Thanks for this video. Q: our pit got cracked at the bottom. Is there a DIY way of replacing it? Only got a Home Depot in our area. Thanks
A crack is no problem. It lets water in. Just like the corrugated pipe or drilled holes. The pump gets rid of the water. Some sand or silt is dealt with by a brick under the pump.
@@janetyeoman1544 much appreciated. We left the crack alone and just replaced the pump with another 1/2 hp
In the house we bought the plastic basin was installed with the top of the tank sitting ABOVE the concrete floor by about 2 inches. Is this a problem? And why in your video do you say you want it flush, or if anything even a bit lower?
Just a tripping hazzard
@@HouseImprovements O.K. I can live with that. Thank you for the video!
Is there some holes in the basket for water coming from underneat?
you can make some but dont make them in the bottom 1/2 or lower . you need it to act as a catch basin and the pump will get rid of it
Thanks for the video! I want to put a sump drain in my garage so i can wash my car in the winter. Doesn't look to hard.
You'd need a pretty big basin
Don't you need geo fab around the perforated pipe and gravel as opposed to clay backfill to keep sediment from entering the pipe and/ or clogging the pump?
You can.
Hi Shannon… Great job 👏🏽💪🏽👍🏽👌🏽
One question… How much is the labor cost average for it?
Nice attention to detail, that concrete looked great afterwards. Helpful video, thank you for posting--subscribed!
Thanks for subscribing
You’re hired!
Did you seal the pipe where it enters the sump pit? Or does the standing water never reach that height and leak out into the grade?
No, the pump will be set to remove water before it gets to the height.ruclips.net/video/ABsk_4zrlbM/видео.html
like your opinion or anyone else reading this . I have a sump pump that goes on and off but the wall behind it has couple of leaks coming in at different spots . I have managed to stop some water coming in with hydraulic cement but then another spot on walk leaks ugh. I would've thought sump pump was keeping water from wall but I guess not . should I put another sump pump in further over so maybe it has chance to suck water in area so maybe it wouldn't come through wall.
cut big holes in bottom and use a filter screen also use rock so water can filter back to pump
Great informative video, thanks! In your video, you tie a single weeping tile into your sump pit. Is this because in newer construction, the perimeter weeping tiles would feed into this one main? I have a house built in 1929 with a centred floor drain with four weeping tiles feeding into it. Could I place the sump pit to capture flow from only one feeder, or would it have to be placed to capture all four weeping tiles feeders?
If you have multiple feeders they should all be in sump pit or multiple sump pits. Many homes have a continuous weeping tile around the entire perimeter and they tie together to one drain.
@@HouseImprovements Thanks for your quick response! Recently had water come into the basement and insurance wants a sump installed. Problem is, the centre floor drain is right in the middle of our family room in the basement.
Great job, thanks for share with Us! ... 💪🏻
What are we gonna do watch you travel all day?
how do you determine where the best place to put a sump pump in your basement?. Thanks
Your lowest spot or where most of the water is coming in .
Hi Shan ! What this black hose for the one connected to the barrel and where to get a barrel also can I install a 5 gallons bucket to avoid this barrel ?
That hose comes from an exterior weeping tile that is buried around the outer perimeter of the basement but comes under the footing and hooks to the sump pit for draining.. You could use a makeshift barrel IMO.
Can I just use a sledgehammer to break out the concrete? I have an old 1956 house and I don't believe there is weeping tile as well but I already have a small hole in my basement floor and when we had some rains in the spring, water started seeping into the hole (we ended up putting a small submersible for a fountain just to keep the water from getting up onto the floor - temporary)
sure
Can you do this in the wet season?
No sand ...just gravel filling ...water needs to draine through ....and in to the bucket with no issues ..... plus ...all you need is a 750w pump with 8 meters head distance....and all sorted 👍
Our house was built in 1992, now the sump pump failed, I’m trying to install a new one,but having a hard time removing the pit lid/cover, it won’t budge,it’s the same lid/cover in this video.
If its the same one they take a pretty good yank up!
U r videos amazing I'm learning a lot off u r job keep on it
Thanks Laith
Nice job buddy. I'm installing a Liberty 380 series sewage pump in the basement floor. Can I assume the same basic process for digging and sealing the floor?
I believe so
Is that black pipe going underneath and outside the house?
Thank You for the awesome vid. I am going to be getting into the basement water proofing business and was worried about the overflow systems.
Hi Shannon, what do you think about smooth wall sewer basins instead of the corrugated basin for the pit? I'm assuming the dimensions are the same in this question. Thanks
What kind of system gets the water to the bucket? Is it pipe shown all the way?🦇
weeping tile (perforated pipe) around the perimeter of the house
Well done