1) Why use the old seals , its wise to replace current seals. 2) Why not test pump after clearing block. 3) Why not replace both check vale. 3) you had extra pipe in your truck should of extended the drain additional 5ft or 10 why just dump it right there outside the window. Anything but that lol
And why didn't he glue the elbow on the outside drain instead of using a cheap looking clamp. Would have taken him 5 seconds instead of the 15 seconds it took him to clamp it lol
The Liberty pump isn't pumping out water because the check valve for the Zoeller is open. The water is pumping in a big circle through the Y fitting and out of the Zoeller right back into the sump pit. The biggest clue was when you broke the main connection and no water dumped out. Then when you started the Liberty pump the other clue was the bubbles and water in the sump pit.
if breaker tripped . why not reset see if it retripps. also maybe Ziegler pump might not be bad plug in to another outlet and check it reset breaker and check . since check valve bad drill holes I. pipe , change check valve and see if zoeler is working before replacing it
I had a Zoeller M98 go bad on me this year. It was humming in the pit and actually got the water hot. Switch was good. Nobody wanted to touch it for repair and it was only 5 years old. I ended up changing out the run/start capacitor - good as new.
Steve, You are a good plumber and HVAC guy but I have issues with this repair. One pump jammed by the broken check valve. So the other pump pumps and all the water from the operating pump just circles back down the Y connection and back in to the well. it's a circle of water. Would have liked to see you test that pump before changing it. Also and not so much on you but dumping water so close to the house is an invitation for termites.
Yeah surprised he didn't troubleshoot that and figure it out. That's my first thought and I'm not experienced with sump pumps. But no check valve and a dead pump on the side that has the broken check valve is quite easy to figure the water takes the easiest path and thats right back down the other pipe out that pump Intake
He had it plugged in separately at the beginning: no agitation; no motor hum; no obvious current draw. Unless it had some kind of reset button, time to pronounce it DOA. The water spilling close to the house is a relief outlet; his modification releasing close to the house is temporary to protect the pump from a repeat failure such as what caused the original fail; i.e., the outlet pipe became clogged; the relief froze; the pump ran continually and may be what broke the check valve on the other pump. Check valve intended to hold residual water probably not designed to withstand water under pressure.
Two pumps need two separated lines pump water to outside of the house as one must work. Extending outside pvc tube a few ft from the house to prevent water go back to the foundation.of the house.
more like a recirculating pump. Thats a good idea. Recirculate all the rainwater through your basement sump pumps and the spit it out so it can seep back into the basement. There is logic here somewhere, I just gotta figure out the details. Must be where the saying "water will find a way into your house" comes from!
Aces High how much money would it had cost to run 10 or 20 feet of 1 1/2" piping away from the house, another $40 for materials and the extra 5 minutes of work? And that's making a profit, not cost. I understand the customer didn't want to or couldn't afford to have the underground pipe snake or replaced, but to just dump the water RIGHT next to where it will automatically recirculate back in is ludicrous. If the plumber cared about doing the job as best as possible, that would have been mandatory and not left for the owner to decide. The pump is now going to work harder than needed and the job is not done correctly. Without knowing the full details, we can't are not aware of what was told to the homeowner, but it's just weird to have a knowledgeable plumber not add a few pieces of pipe to that elbow.
so here is something not mentioned the line outside is blocked correct? yes of so the little green pump burnt out at some point and the liberty pump kept working and with the line being blocked outside the liberty would build pressure in the line and eventually blew out the check valve on the green pump and made it open circuit so the liberty would run and run constantly pushing its water back out the green pump as there is no check valve anymore with it running over and over pumping the same water the liberty burnt it self out as well the water would eventually get hot circulating the same water over and over and mostlikly the impeller is plastic and could have come off the drive motor shaft
I would have rodded the blockage. Dumping water just outside the home not only reintroduces the water to the water pump but also creates a lake in the back yard. Not your best work bud. But otherwise , Love ya and thanks for all the GOOD stuff!
This guy is why i fix all my own stuff. Dude would rather charge the home owner for a 200 plus dollar pump than try and fix the one they have. He already was going to junk it before even taking it outta yhe well. Couldnt even plug it in and see if it would work out of the well. I have fixed handfuls zoeller pumps.
It's your house, the problems that can be created from a failed pump are not good. Where I live most people need drain tiles and a failed pump causes all kinds of misery. I'm really surprised I haven't seen a battery backup on any if the units he has worked on.
That's not a smart move for a technician servicing customers. Actually testing the defective unit means taking it back to Steve's work bench and running diagnostic tests on the pump. That will cost the customer more than $200, with no guarantee that the electronics will continue running under load. As Steve indicated, the pump had been under a severe work load for sometime. You can fix your own stuff because you have the time. And if it breaks, you go back to the store to buy the next thing.
Stupid. Stepping over a dollar to save a nickel. It can probably be fixed. But if he fixes it and it fails . The damage could be way more expensive than a 200 pump.
This job did not demonstrate the same consistent quality and patience as I've seen in your HVAC work. Made me wonder if you might have been rushing to a vet appointment with Miss Molly, or an important dinner date, or maybe you were just having an off day.
I’m a big fan of the Zoeller pump, but not their switch and float system. I always put an external switch and level control on the pump. I usually use an electronic switch, if it’s ground water. Never have a level control problem and I’m working on large pits a commercial plant. I do the same thing in my own home, Zoeller pump with an external level control.
@@timmark4190 I buy the pumps without the float. If you already own the pump/float, be prepared to go into the switch housing and bypass the switch electrically. You need new switch housing gaskets and leave the float switch arm.
Still, as a novice DIY Guy I learned valuable options for rearranging my sump pump piping for easy inspection, and to put my two units on separate breakers, with one perhaps on battery backup. Also that I have no check valve on my discharge. My sump is 20 feet across room from my breaker panel. Shoddy workmanship for builder not to install a check valve or a 2nd breaker circuit for my installed backup pump. I also need to determine if I need battery backup power AND at least a high water level alarm. Not in a Floodplain, Gutter & Leaders well drained downslope from house, and have no ground water entering my sump, only water from HVAC, Humidifier and Hot Water Heater. Maybe I don't need battery backup, huh?
erik61801. Roger that! Me too! Started fixing my own shit in my 20’s after Jiffy Lube effed up my 300Z in the 80’s LOL. They drain the pumpkin and never refilled, almost bought the farm on 95 doing 95!
Hello Mr. Lavimoniere. Great videos...thank you. I have a driveway that pitches steeply toward our garage. There are two 4" drains that are piped to a sump in our garage. The damn leaves and crap keep clogging the inlet screen of our (Rigid 1/2 HP cast iron submersible) pump....rendering it useless. My thinking is to go toward a vortex impeller design such as the Zoeller or Liberty pumps. Can you please make recommendation for a pump choice sir? Oh, I also have a dedicated house sump under the stairwell of this home which is a split level design.
Well he loves zoeller pumps because he gets the change them every 6 months he said in another video lol. But he does like liberty for their reliability
Steve didn’t run the pipe outside the house. He was there to fix the pump(s). If the homeowner wanted to pay him to run additional pipe from the one line then I’m sure he wold have run it. Don’t comment on something you don’t know anything about. Some people are extremely cheap1
@@danaparish1644 at my own expense I would have put a $5 6ft piece of pipe to run away from the house. He is just going to prematurely burn out the new pump that he replaced if left like that.
Why not use the brand new seal it came with? The old sounds like there is grit in the threads. That weeping hole you drilled was huge. I think 1/8 to 3/16 max in all the stuff I read. I hate being a critic but wouldn't it have been wise to wet vac out the sump pit to clear any debris that may have gotten in there? The pumps look so unbalanced it would be nice to see if they used a proper patio block for the pumps to sit on. I also notice you didn't check the sump screen on the old pump that is staying to see if there are blockages there as well. It would have been good to clean that as well. Unless they buried that pipe below the frost like they are asking for trouble. I amazed at how fast that weeping tile lets the water back in. Probably should have run some pipe or flexible hose away from the foundation so isn't recirculating.
Should have went with a Gould's pump. They last for like 15-20 years. Zolar is one of the worst pumps for longevity. At work we change out about 5-6 pumps a week and they are always either Liberty or Zolar pumps that are bad. If you install a Gould's effluent pump then you shouldn't have to worry about it for a while. It may be about $50 more but you get what you pay for.
PixL50, Liberty and Zoeller are the very best pumps you can buy! How are you changing 5-6 pumps a week? Your saying Liberty and Zoeller are bad, but yet you continue to replace 5-6 pumps A WEEK with the same pumps! I smell bullshit!
Im not having much luck with Zoeller latley on the switches. Not sure if it's the switches or the gasket leaking which kills the switch but either way I have had a few that are about 3 years old that are not working. They pump if you lift the switch but it will not work automatically. Funny thing is I have a Zoeller pump that is nearly 15 years old and it is still working fine.
I'm a woman and a home owner, but why wouldn't you tell this poor guy to put an extension hose at least five or ten feet from his house so the same water doesn't keep getting back into the basement. Oh yeah so his pump keep running 24/7 and keep burning out and you keep getting paid because of his lack of knowledge, shame on you. Most home owners don't realize if your sump pump goes out, it's a quick 20-30 minutes tops to replace it if there's no other issues.
That water is just going to pump out, sink back down to the weepers and the cycle will continue. At least put a six foot pipe on that elbow you installed to get the water away from the foundation.
PBS #007 One is the main pump and is located at the bottom of the sump. The backup pump is near the top, and it's float switch is set to start when the water level gets near the top, which only happens if the primary pump fails. A big mistake here was the wiring, they were both on the same circuit. The proper way to wire this, in my opinion, is to take the duplex outlet and snap off the jumper strips on the sides, same way they do with switched outlets. One side is wired to a dedicated circuit labeled sump pump main, the other sump backup. This way the pump is the only load on the circuit, the only thing that will trip it is the pump failing. Sump main tripped, now the backup on it's circuit takes over.
@@davidmarquardt2445 Zoellers pump great but they pull a lot of amps, the 1/3 & 1/2 HP ones I think around 9 amps. Many homes have just 15 amp circuits. If those 2 pump at same time w/a 15 amp circuit or maybe even a 20 they could trip it. Another thing, Zoellers have a very low float "on" and they go off all the time. Zoeller now has offered an add-on electrical float & there are other makers where you can set your "on" setting higher. I took out my 1/2 HP main Zoeller since it went on all the time until the float switch burnt out, I now use another as my low main pump and a 1/3HP Zoeller as my backup mounted higher w/a float, one of those "ping pong ball in a cage" floats, so it would go on only if the sump water level got high.
@@frankm2588 I think you misunderstood what I was describing. Although they are plugged into a duplex outlet, when you snap off the terminal jumpers you connect a separate hot and neutral wire to EACH side. These go to separate breakers (15 or 20, your choice). They cannot trip because they are on their own designated circuits. Seens basements are in conduit, it would not be hard to pull 2 extra wires.
Two pumps? Unless both turn on at the same time pump # 2 would never get to pump any water, Unless of course one of the pumps failed to work at all. Also each pump shoulld have its own discharge piping and further out away from house Sump pumps are designed for volume not pressure,
This is half ass at best. All the water thats pumped out into the yard is gonna end up right back in the sump basin again. I hope home owner didn't pay this guy.
Steve as cheap as check valves are versus your time, why not change both at the same time? Also, won't setting that discharge so close to the homes footings can create a wash-out channel?? Thinking... I'm in North Dakota here.... we'd have a hockey rink for 5 months of the year if we plumbed the way that was done! But your ducks would love you like the second coming! LOL Good Video! Thanks
I don't understand why you would need two pumps at the same level in the same pit??? I can see having one set higher in case one fails, the second would go on as the water rises but I especially think a battery back-up would make more sense than having two full-time pumps doing the same job.
Another tip. I found that the float wasn't strong enough to trip the switch any more. So I got some bubble wrap and taped it to the side near the bottom of the float. Now the float has a little more pressure to rise and it has enough pressure to flip the switch.
The back up to the back up pump gave up. Two of them green monsta's should do the trick! where does the original line terminate? I want to see the video of the dig. Are you doing that? Right now the wata is gonna cycle from outside the window to back into the cella, eitha that or go get three 20 footas and pump the neighbas yard full of wata . just playin yankees, i used to be one of youzze. Much love to the baby dog, keep up the good work Steven .
1.5 inch furnco pipe with double clamp $3, union $9 ( slip union would be glued as well needing additional male bushing if a threaded union would need installed costing another $2 ) oh well ...
Great video! Surprised they have 2 pumps for that pit. Rising water must be a big issue there. Nice sunny day with wind and temps near 60° that day.(5/11/17). Thanks for uploading and filming the outside stuff too!
The water is just going to run back into the house...and don’t use electrical tap to gather your cords...use a zip tie...it’s neater and it’s water proof...did you do the previous work on this project...don’t use old parts...switching them out for new will help last longer...you probably charged those people a small fortune...you should just show them how to do themselves....
Hi Steve bin watching your videos ,the plumbing is quite a bit different to Australia now when I was a kid we used cast iron and clay pipes but thats all gone . The kids today cant even solder which is a shame its all plastic ,pex and colour bond.Any way keep up the good work Cheers
So you are saying that a replacement part like a switch that can cost the customer $5/$10/$15 you won't change out? But replace it with a $150/$160/$180 brand new sump pump because you don't do switches? Thanks 4 letting us know that... I will make sure you are not the plumber that comes to my house to service my sump pump... SMH
1) Why use the old seals , its wise to replace current seals. 2) Why not test pump after clearing block. 3) Why not replace both check vale. 3) you had extra pipe in your truck should of extended the drain additional 5ft or 10 why just dump it right there outside the window. Anything but that lol
@Allen & Ginter lmfao
He fixed it didnt he?
And why didn't he glue the elbow on the outside drain instead of using a cheap looking clamp. Would have taken him 5 seconds instead of the 15 seconds it took him to clamp it lol
It's called a dry well and the dry well can't handle the water.
And for the love of God put a dam pipe on that 90 get the water away from the house
I liked the way he took all the new black seals off and used the old ones.
steve trayes it’s called job security
@@jz719 what’s that?
except for the one that fell out and is laying on the floor. so the liberty pump had no seal
The Liberty pump isn't pumping out water because the check valve for the Zoeller is open. The water is pumping in a big circle through the Y fitting and out of the Zoeller right back into the sump pit. The biggest clue was when you broke the main connection and no water dumped out. Then when you started the Liberty pump the other clue was the bubbles and water in the sump pit.
1st thing I noticed is that your pumps are on the same circuit. Put them on different circuits so if the breaker trips you dont loose both
if breaker tripped . why not reset see if it retripps. also maybe Ziegler pump might not be bad plug in to another outlet and check it reset breaker and check . since check valve bad drill holes I. pipe , change check valve and see if zoeler is working before replacing it
No he should've just changed out the Zoeller with a battery/water powered backup up pump.
I had a Zoeller M98 go bad on me this year. It was humming in the pit and actually got the water hot. Switch was good. Nobody wanted to touch it for repair and it was only 5 years old. I ended up changing out the run/start capacitor - good as new.
Steve,
You are a good plumber and HVAC guy but I have issues with this repair. One pump jammed by the broken check valve. So the other pump pumps and all the water from the operating pump just circles back down the Y connection and back in to the well. it's a circle of water. Would have liked to see you test that pump before changing it. Also and not so much on you but dumping water so close to the house is an invitation for termites.
Yeah surprised he didn't troubleshoot that and figure it out. That's my first thought and I'm not experienced with sump pumps. But no check valve and a dead pump on the side that has the broken check valve is quite easy to figure the water takes the easiest path and thats right back down the other pipe out that pump Intake
He had it plugged in separately at the beginning: no agitation; no motor hum; no obvious current draw. Unless it had some kind of reset button, time to pronounce it DOA. The water spilling close to the house is a relief outlet; his modification releasing close to the house is temporary to protect the pump from a repeat failure such as what caused the original fail; i.e., the outlet pipe became clogged; the relief froze; the pump ran continually and may be what broke the check valve on the other pump. Check valve intended to hold residual water probably not designed to withstand water under pressure.
Two pumps need two separated lines pump water to outside of the house as one must work.
Extending outside pvc tube a few ft from the house to prevent water go back to the foundation.of the house.
Steve, would you dump all that water right next to your house? Were you feeling well when you videoed this episode? Doesn't seem right.
Why not identify why the underground pipe is blocked and fix the problem? This looks like a quick fix which has its own deficiencies
more like a recirculating pump. Thats a good idea. Recirculate all the rainwater through your basement sump pumps and the spit it out so it can seep back into the basement. There is logic here somewhere, I just gotta figure out the details. Must be where the saying "water will find a way into your house" comes from!
Aces High how much money would it had cost to run 10 or 20 feet of 1 1/2" piping away from the house, another $40 for materials and the extra 5 minutes of work? And that's making a profit, not cost.
I understand the customer didn't want to or couldn't afford to have the underground pipe snake or replaced, but to just dump the water RIGHT next to where it will automatically recirculate back in is ludicrous.
If the plumber cared about doing the job as best as possible, that would have been mandatory and not left for the owner to decide. The pump is now going to work harder than needed and the job is not done correctly.
Without knowing the full details, we can't are not aware of what was told to the homeowner, but it's just weird to have a knowledgeable plumber not add a few pieces of pipe to that elbow.
With that broken check valve the one pump was just pumping over down out the other pump.
so here is something not mentioned the line outside is blocked correct? yes of so the little green pump burnt out at some point and the liberty pump kept working and with the line being blocked outside the liberty would build pressure in the line and eventually blew out the check valve on the green pump and made it open circuit so the liberty would run and run constantly pushing its water back out the green pump as there is no check valve anymore with it running over and over pumping the same water the liberty burnt it self out as well the water would eventually get hot circulating the same water over and over and mostlikly the impeller is plastic and could have come off the drive motor shaft
You forgot the rubber seal on green pump it fell down and u just tightened without it :D
Aurimas Niekis there was already one on the existing pipe
Look at 8:57 and look at pipe with blue plastic
Aurimas Niekis 👍🏻
I was watching and like Oh boy he missed it :D
I would have rodded the blockage. Dumping water just outside the home not only reintroduces the water to the water pump but also creates a lake in the back yard. Not your best work bud. But otherwise , Love ya and thanks for all the GOOD stuff!
The Liberty pumps probably fine and not pumping just because of the clogged line.
This guy is why i fix all my own stuff. Dude would rather charge the home owner for a 200 plus dollar pump than try and fix the one they have. He already was going to junk it before even taking it outta yhe well. Couldnt even plug it in and see if it would work out of the well. I have fixed handfuls zoeller pumps.
It's your house, the problems that can be created from a failed pump are not good. Where I live most people need drain tiles and a failed pump causes all kinds of misery. I'm really surprised I haven't seen a battery backup on any if the units he has worked on.
That's not a smart move for a technician servicing customers. Actually testing the defective unit means taking it back to Steve's work bench and running diagnostic tests on the pump. That will cost the customer more than $200, with no guarantee that the electronics will continue running under load. As Steve indicated, the pump had been under a severe work load for sometime. You can fix your own stuff because you have the time. And if it breaks, you go back to the store to buy the next thing.
It's going to cost more fixing it then replacing it. Imagine you pay to fix it just to have it happen again 3
Days later
Stupid. Stepping over a dollar to save a nickel.
It can probably be fixed.
But if he fixes it and it fails . The damage could be way more expensive than a 200 pump.
You put the pipes back in opposite of the way they were originally
This job did not demonstrate the same consistent quality and patience as I've seen in your HVAC work. Made me wonder if you might have been rushing to a vet appointment with Miss Molly, or an important dinner date, or maybe you were just having an off day.
Not sure if dumping ground water from basement on the ground next to foundation is the best idea
Dumping on the ground one foot beside the wall and back into the foundation again - or is that a temporary solution?
Unbelievable, I can’t believe that you posted this video !!!
Thanks 🙏
I’m a big fan of the Zoeller pump, but not their switch and float system. I always put an external switch and level control on the pump. I usually use an electronic switch, if it’s ground water. Never have a level control problem and I’m working on large pits a commercial plant. I do the same thing in my own home, Zoeller pump with an external level control.
How do you by pass the switch
@@timmark4190 I buy the pumps without the float. If you already own the pump/float, be prepared to go into the switch housing and bypass the switch electrically. You need new switch housing gaskets and leave the float switch arm.
So is there a part 2? Did the pump problems get resolved? Did the discharge pipe get cleared? Is the water still spilling at the foundation?
@stevenlavimoniere What SUMP plumps do you recommend?
Very relaxing watching your vids ty ..
Still, as a novice DIY Guy I learned valuable options for rearranging my sump pump piping for easy inspection, and to put my two units on separate breakers, with one perhaps on battery backup. Also that I have no check valve on my discharge. My sump is 20 feet across room from my breaker panel. Shoddy workmanship for builder not to install a check valve or a 2nd breaker circuit for my installed backup pump. I also need to determine if I need battery backup power AND at least a high water level alarm. Not in a Floodplain, Gutter & Leaders well drained downslope from house, and have no ground water entering my sump, only water from HVAC, Humidifier and Hot Water Heater. Maybe I don't need battery backup, huh?
Putting the discharge 6 inches away from the house...real smart.
You're a damn plumber, get your snake out and unblock it, instead of repeating 5 different times that the underground pipe is blocked
would have been done in five min. and replace the check valve and retry. replace that Zoeller switch.
Exactly! that’s why the Liberty pump couldn’t pump it didn’t need to be changed!
Exactly. I can’t believe you cut the pipe and not tried to clear the problem and then left the water drain along the house anyways. WOW
where is your duplex control pannel? even matched pumps cannot turn on on the same exact time with two floats.
Is this Carl from Aqua teen?
Good job Steve,on sump pump replacement. take it to the next level....OLD GUNDY !!!!!!!!
That discharge is putting water right back where you don't want it. Why not jet the underground line to clear it ?
Steve why don't you wear overhauls.
and this is why i fix all of my own shit. EVERYTHING. If i dont know how I teach myself.
same
erik61801. Roger that! Me too! Started fixing my own shit in my 20’s after Jiffy Lube effed up my 300Z in the 80’s LOL. They drain the pumpkin and never refilled, almost bought the farm on 95 doing 95!
Zoeller switches fail prematurely. I stopped buying them. You can replace the head of it but it is usually rusty inside the switch cavity
Hello Mr. Lavimoniere. Great videos...thank you. I have a driveway that pitches steeply toward our garage. There are two 4" drains that are piped to a sump in our garage. The damn leaves and crap keep clogging the inlet screen of our (Rigid 1/2 HP cast iron submersible) pump....rendering it useless. My thinking is to go toward a vortex impeller design such as the Zoeller or Liberty pumps. Can you please make recommendation for a pump choice sir? Oh, I also have a dedicated house sump under the stairwell of this home which is a split level design.
Well he loves zoeller pumps because he gets the change them every 6 months he said in another video lol. But he does like liberty for their reliability
Dumping the water right at the foundation - genius! Doesn’t seem like a plumber.
Steve didn’t run the pipe outside the house. He was there to fix the pump(s). If the homeowner wanted to pay him to run additional pipe from the one line then I’m sure he wold have run it. Don’t comment on something you don’t know anything about. Some people are extremely cheap1
@@danaparish1644 at my own expense I would have put a $5 6ft piece of pipe to run away from the house. He is just going to prematurely burn out the new pump that he replaced if left like that.
does anyone know why drill a small hole on liberty pump pipe ? thanks
very sloppy work
Is that brackish water also
Why not use the brand new seal it came with? The old sounds like there is grit in the threads. That weeping hole you drilled was huge. I think 1/8 to 3/16 max in all the stuff I read. I hate being a critic but wouldn't it have been wise to wet vac out the sump pit to clear any debris that may have gotten in there? The pumps look so unbalanced it would be nice to see if they used a proper patio block for the pumps to sit on. I also notice you didn't check the sump screen on the old pump that is staying to see if there are blockages there as well. It would have been good to clean that as well. Unless they buried that pipe below the frost like they are asking for trouble. I amazed at how fast that weeping tile lets the water back in. Probably should have run some pipe or flexible hose away from the foundation so isn't recirculating.
Точно, и я заметил что ерунда какая то. Смысл в дренаже, если насос качает сам под себя, то есть на рециркуляцию))
Should have went with a Gould's pump. They last for like 15-20 years. Zolar is one of the worst pumps for longevity. At work we change out about 5-6 pumps a week and they are always either Liberty or Zolar pumps that are bad. If you install a Gould's effluent pump then you shouldn't have to worry about it for a while. It may be about $50 more but you get what you pay for.
Job security though.
no sucht hing as zolar lol its zoeller moron
PixL50, Liberty and Zoeller are the very best pumps you can buy! How are you changing 5-6 pumps a week? Your saying Liberty and Zoeller are bad, but yet you continue to replace 5-6 pumps A WEEK with the same pumps! I smell bullshit!
Im not having much luck with Zoeller latley on the switches. Not sure if it's the switches or the gasket leaking which kills the switch but either way I have had a few that are about 3 years old that are not working. They pump if you lift the switch but it will not work automatically. Funny thing is I have a Zoeller pump that is nearly 15 years old and it is still working fine.
Don’t think you had to drill hole
It was pumping threw the other pump because check valve was open
I'm a woman and a home owner, but why wouldn't you tell this poor guy to put an extension hose at least five or ten feet from his house so the same water doesn't keep getting back into the basement. Oh yeah so his pump keep running 24/7 and keep burning out and you keep getting paid because of his lack of knowledge, shame on you. Most home owners don't realize if your sump pump goes out, it's a quick 20-30 minutes tops to replace it if there's no other issues.
You never explained the hole you drilled. And, would not tie wraps be easier than tape to dress the wiring?
hole relieves the residual head pressure downstream of the check relieving the pumps impellar when the motor is de-energized, tape is a NY thing
That water is just going to pump out, sink back down to the weepers and the cycle will continue. At least put a six foot pipe on that elbow you installed to get the water away from the foundation.
love your videos look at them all the time 2 questions,, 1 why two pumps, which is the best pump to buy ??
PBS #007 One is the main pump and is located at the bottom of the sump. The backup pump is near the top, and it's float switch is set to start when the water level gets near the top, which only happens if the primary pump fails. A big mistake here was the wiring, they were both on the same circuit. The proper way to wire this, in my opinion, is to take the duplex outlet and snap off the jumper strips on the sides, same way they do with switched outlets. One side is wired to a dedicated circuit labeled sump pump main, the other sump backup. This way the pump is the only load on the circuit, the only thing that will trip it is the pump failing. Sump main tripped, now the backup on it's circuit takes over.
@@davidmarquardt2445 Zoellers pump great but they pull a lot of amps, the 1/3 & 1/2 HP ones I think around 9 amps. Many homes have just 15 amp circuits. If those 2 pump at same time w/a 15 amp circuit or maybe even a 20 they could trip it. Another thing, Zoellers have a very low float "on" and they go off all the time. Zoeller now has offered an add-on electrical float & there are other makers where you can set your "on" setting higher. I took out my 1/2 HP main Zoeller since it went on all the time until the float switch burnt out, I now use another as my low main pump and a 1/3HP Zoeller as my backup mounted higher w/a float, one of those "ping pong ball in a cage" floats, so it would go on only if the sump water level got high.
@@frankm2588 I think you misunderstood what I was describing. Although they are plugged into a duplex outlet, when you snap off the terminal jumpers you connect a separate hot and neutral wire to EACH side. These go to separate breakers (15 or 20, your choice). They cannot trip because they are on their own designated circuits. Seens basements are in conduit, it would not be hard to pull 2 extra wires.
Two pumps? Unless both turn on at the same time pump # 2 would never get to pump any water, Unless of course one of the pumps failed to work at all. Also each pump shoulld have its own discharge piping and further out away from house Sump pumps are designed for volume not pressure,
This is half ass at best. All the water thats pumped out into the yard is gonna end up right back in the sump basin again. I hope home owner didn't pay this guy.
Steve as cheap as check valves are versus your time, why not change both at the same time? Also, won't setting that discharge so close to the homes footings can create a wash-out channel?? Thinking... I'm in North Dakota here.... we'd have a hockey rink for 5 months of the year if we plumbed the way that was done! But your ducks would love you like the second coming! LOL Good Video! Thanks
I don't understand why you would need two pumps at the same level in the same pit??? I can see having one set higher in case one fails, the second would go on as the water rises but I especially think a battery back-up would make more sense than having two full-time pumps doing the same job.
Another tip. I found that the float wasn't strong enough to trip the
switch any more. So I got some bubble wrap and taped it to the side near
the bottom of the float. Now the float has a little more pressure to
rise and it has enough pressure to flip the switch.
hes using the old washers haha
The back up to the back up pump gave up. Two of them green monsta's should do the trick! where does the original line terminate? I want to see the video of the dig. Are you doing that? Right now the wata is gonna cycle from outside the window to back into the cella, eitha that or go get three 20 footas and pump the neighbas yard full of wata .
just playin yankees, i used to be one of youzze.
Much love to the baby dog, keep up the good work Steven .
You should’ve replaced it with a battery/water powered backup pump, It’s better than just a regular pump.
my friend had a problem with his and I had no idea what to look for--------l learn a bit from what you did but I didn't see you put in a new seal----
Why doesnt he use a union instead of the band clamp?
1.5 inch furnco pipe with double clamp $3, union $9 ( slip union would be glued as well needing additional male bushing if a threaded union would need installed costing another $2 ) oh well ...
Why have 2 pumps?
Great video! Surprised they have 2 pumps for that pit. Rising water must be a big issue there. Nice sunny day with wind and temps near 60° that day.(5/11/17). Thanks for uploading and filming the outside stuff too!
Its for redundancy
This was very valuable to me. Thank you!!
Good job
1, you only need one pump in there, if you don't have a alternator then one pump will always stop working,
Great video....
I saw what you did and didn't do and sorry but you failed as a good plumber-------wouldn't want you to do any repairs of mine-------------------
Why not just change the check valve instead of the entire pump?
The water is just going to run back into the house...and don’t use electrical tap to gather your cords...use a zip tie...it’s neater and it’s water proof...did you do the previous work on this project...don’t use old parts...switching them out for new will help last longer...you probably charged those people a small fortune...you should just show them how to do themselves....
You didn’t put the rubber back in your old pump. Above the value.
Steve really hacked this one up didn’t he
great job sir!
Without the check valve the other pump will just pump the water back in the pit!
Hi Steve bin watching your videos ,the plumbing is quite a bit different to Australia now when I was a kid we used cast iron and clay pipes but thats all gone .
The kids today cant even solder which is a shame its all plastic ,pex and colour bond.Any way keep up the good work Cheers
Are G.F.I. outlets not required? Seems like it would be a good idea.
Old seals forgot to put seal in, And why go out side to see in pump is working water not going down pump not pumping,
The bare minimum kind of guy....with attitude ..Why'd you get into that line of work if you hate it so much?
Why does he wear gloves? I ask
double repair once again Steve 2hr job job turns into 4hr job and probably didn't need any new pumps
Great video Steve
Another good,bad and the ugly story
I couldn't believe that anyone would consider an outlet to the sky as the way to go.
Its so water can still discharge if the pipe underground is frozen or clogged
Hello ... great video ... is good enough a 1/3 HP for a residential home? when is it recommended to install a 1/2 HP sump pump?
I've never had a pump need a hole in the pipe then again I don't use giant pumps
Steve I know your loosing weight but miss your cooking vids
Wow
You need a new 5 HP pump
Stevie Wonder 😎 working man
Some good teaching here Steve
bet this house has no gutters
You've got Roots clogging that pipe you need to call a plumber to sneak out the pipe with a cutter head
I don't fucking play around with switchs amen
How do you think the crypto market will perform this year?
So you are saying that a replacement part like a switch that can cost the customer $5/$10/$15 you won't change out? But replace it with a $150/$160/$180 brand new sump pump because you don't do switches? Thanks 4 letting us know that... I will make sure you are not the plumber that comes to my house to service my sump pump... SMH
He is a plumber with not snake machine
Funny funny I’m very des appointed
High water table under that house. That pit fills up every few minutes. Steve is working again mama!
Don't think he is into reading the comments. Good videos!
hey stop putting that dirty tape in your mouth or you'll have to wear gloves on your lips next LOL
that 1 way valve has that broke off got stuck somewhere in the piping
Typical plumber!
Do it cheap and quick to make more money and move on to another project
infinite water loop
MAYDAY MAYDAY MAYDAY