It’s a ratchet, make use of it 👍 The ratchet function will keep you from unnecessarily removing and repositioning the socket. Also, at certain intervals you have to dismantle and clean the center locks-there is a very thin washer that at first you might think is not there- Follow the detailed instructions on which parts get or do not get the Optimol and how much to apply. Don’t use any other “grease”. Wheels off the ground only as you did-many people are tempted to “crack them loose” on the ground. Porsche is very specific about this. Once you get used to the system, with discipline, it’s a sort of ritual. And you want to trust yourself to do it correctly, your life depends on it👍
I really appreciate men like you taking the time out to throw some free knowledge at us guys that dream of owning a car like this one day. Hell, I'd pay just to meet you and shake your hand. When I was stationed in Iraq these are the type of videos I will watch to remind me of home and the good people I serve and protected. Now as an over the road truck driver I only dream that one day a car like this will pass me by so I can roll my window down to hear it. cheers brother!!
Thanks Jeff. I getting a 2015 GT3 in about 60 days and this video was an excellent find on my quest to absorb as much information on the car!! Kudos to you for taking the time and sharing...
I have been terrified to try this wheel change, but feel, now that I have watched the video, I can do it. I also need to rewatch this video a few more times. Thanks so much!!!
Is there a link to the inspection document you are paging through? The one with the green checks and the red "x" in it? Please post a link if you don't mind. Great video.
Thank you for sharing such a thorough attention to detail. I just picked up my first GT3 RS and was looking for help on changing these wheels. Thank you
Why are you not using the ratchet of your torque wrench? You made 8 manual movements on one wheel and at the end finally used the ratchet for a single movement.
made it look easy...thanks...nice tip on rear wheel brakes....I heard front wheel can be done with one front wheel on the ground, so clamp on brake not needed...
Beautiful car and great video. I was puzzled how to do this on my 911 Turbo S. Now I ordered the parts listed so I can follow the instructions. Thanks a lot
Hi Jeff, would it be possible to send me this document regarding the center lock system as well please? Many thanks in advance for your help. Well done video 👍👍👍
Thank you for posting this. While I do not have anything with center lock, it has always intrigued me to see the procedure performed. Do you know if these are similar to Cup Car mechanisms? Pneumatic guns make quick work of it, so maybe they are just not concerned with small galling or wear if parts are just replaced at the end of every race. For now though, I think I'll remain glad I have standard lug nuts and studs to work with.
Thanks for the detailed video instructions. After viewing this I've decided not to get a GT Porsche with these wheels. It seems so much work to change a wheel.
That's a big torque wrench with a ratchet head. Then why you have to keep removing the socket and re-position the socket every quarter turn instead of letting the ratchet head do its job. I would have thought your way defeats the purpose of using a ratchet torque wrench and have more chances of marring the cosmetics because you have to keep repositioning the socket as you tighten it to spec.
The Precision Instruments (PREC4D600F) is actually BOTH a breaker bar and a torque wrench. It has two handles that are interchangeable. One is just a breaker bar and the other is the torque wrench. They both attach to the same head which is just a ratchet head. So he's using the breaker bar to break the nut loose and the torque bar to tighten them. Though why he isn't using the ratchet function is also beyond me. Edit: He also put this in writing in the video at 3:26
omg that's crazy, 1inch breaker bar & 1 inch torque bar , special wheels , special socket to remove the center nut , then you have to inspect the nut , nipples , hub surface & wheel seat :O
At 12:55. you do realize that is a ratcheting torque wrench and there is no need to remove the centerlock socket and torque wrench to move it and then reinstall it where needed.
Hi Jeff, would it be possible to send me this document regarding the center lock system as well please? Many thanks in advance for your help. Well done video 👍👍👍
Can you explain why you do not loosen the bolt when the car/tire is on the ground, jack it up, swap the wheels, tighten it lightly, drop the car back down, and then torque it (how I have done it for 30 years ....). I have never jacked up the entire car, but rather swap one wheel at the time (unless it's in a garage).
You can loosen / break the bolt free while on the ground. You can certainly do one corner at a time as well, however, YOU MUST torque these while in the air, then back off and re torque. I agree with 5 lugs it was always snug up then torque on the ground. Not with these. Snug and torque while suspended.
The 'tightening center lock to 450 ft-lb' technique is incorrect. At video 14:14, he uses the big torque wrench in a 'PUSH DOWN' scenario. This places UNDO stress on the Suspension components - namely the shock that has to resist that 450 ft-lb torque. The PROPER method is to use the "LIFT UP method' You LIFT UP on the big torque wrench to apply the torque, so the resistance is against the car spring (normal suspension travel). This applies to loosening as well - I recommend to always use the "LIFT UP" on torque wrench.
While there is nothing wrong with the logic the technique is not "incorrect". The force applied to the suspension components under a downward torque motion is still far less than the stresses the components endure during normal track work. Its really a matter of preference vs. necessity. Do what you're comfortable with for sure but don't worry either way.
"The force applied to the suspension components under a downward torque motion is still far less than the stresses the components endure during normal track work. " - this is simply not true. There is no normal track driving or street driving force that puts a downward load on an already extended suspension - namely the OEM shocks. Do the math, 4ft (48' inch bar) with 450 ft-lb = 112LBs of unnecessary downward force the shocks have to support. The factory uses a special torque gun. You might get away with it occasionally but repeated cycles will break the shock seals and cause more wear than needed - hence the technique is not recommended.
Why can't do initial loosen and final tighten with the car on the ground (like normal wheels)? seems silly to have to block the brake pedal with a spreader thing. Excuse my ignorance.
Never loosen or tighten with wheels on the ground. Porsche is very specific about this. Also never allow a shop to do so if you’re not doing it yourself-
Great explanation , is it possible you can send me the document of rennlist, or give me guidance where i can find it ? Hardcore 2015 911 gts driver from the netherlands, highly appreciated, cheers Rob
after torquing to 450ft lbs, why loosen then tighten back to 450ft lbs? to spread the grease around better? Also what is the weight difference on your OZ wheels vs the stock 14 gt3 wheels? they look great
Is it really necessary to switch back to the breaker bar to loosen the torque after you torque it the first time? I know Obsessed Garaged just loosened the nut with the torque wrench part still attached, he just didn't put any pressure on the torque wrench part. I just did it that way as well and it worked fine. That way you don't have to switch back and forth between the TQ wrench and breaker bar.
Hi Jeff, I recently purchased the spare CL wheel kit. The spare wheel (Part # 991-362-021-02) is a standard 5 lug wheel with an adapter (Part # 991-362-191-00) bolted to the wheel with 5 bolts (991-361-209-00). It has its own CL bolt (Part # 991-361-181-50). The kit also contains two compact spacers one for the front and a bigger one for the rear. Note: The rear spacer is also called the shim. The part # for the front spacer is 9P1-601-271 (old part # is 991-362-193-00) and the part # for the rear spacer (shim) is 9P1-601-271-A (old part # is 991-362-195-00). Now the real question. If I get a flat in the front, I think it's fairly clear about putting the spare with front spacer and using the front spacer. The problem is with the rear. I have heard two different opinions here (1) Remove the good front wheel and install in the rear along with the rear spacer (shim) and instal the spare in the front with the front spacer. (2) Install the spare with the rear spacer (shim) in the rear and don't do anything to the good front. Does anyone here know which one of these are accurate? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Deb
Hi Jeff, great thread and share. Can you send/post or share the "mdrums" CL document that you are referencing in the video? I am unable to source it from Rennlist, but still working on it. Thank you ahead of time!
That's definitely something you'd need to practice many times to get quick at it. If I was switching wheels/tires for track days, I'd have to show up a few hours early just to make sure I have time haha
No you don't. This tool doesn't shouldn't "work" on his car. Loosen lugs on the ground. Jack up the front, then rear, swap all four corners, snug the lug back up, drop the car, torque. Should take 15 minutes tops. This wanker is embarrassing.
Great video! Jeff, how long are the breaker bar and toque wrench handle? It seemed like you were able to exert the force needed for 600 NM without too much difficulty? How would it compare to the force required for a regular car with a 12" lug nut wrench for 110 ft-lbs?
Is a link to the centerlock wheel sheets that you leaf though in your video available somewhere? Thanks for the heads up for that centering pin recommendation since I have those PCCB discs on my car. Now to get another torque wrench...will have them all then.
Yo, it's nothing to clean off and replace anti-seize. Yeah there's dry lubricants in there but there's wet lubricants in there too that cook off during use. Now what's left degrades faster under further heat cycles.
Would slightly loosening the center lock with the vehicle on the ground make it a bit easier, Rather than holding the brake pedal with the vehicle in the air?
Why not loosen nut with wheels on ground, then jack up to remove/replace? Why not use torque wrench and blast them off/on and torque wrench for final tighten?
The five big studs (called "nipples" in the video, which is good, too) engage holes in the back of the wheel, taking all of the torque the same way that conventional studs work with a conventional wheel.
Hi i have a 911 GT3 owner who wants to change his tyres at my shop and doesn't want to go through the agent as they charge quite high to change tyres. I would like to know where i can get all the necessary tools to open the center lock wheels and if the tool can be used for all Porsche models with center locks? I highly appreciate your reply. thank you
Everything except the torque wrench is in the car. Read the Porsche literature VERY carefully before doing this and be sure to use the new torque setting of 440 ft/lbs. The wheels must be tightened when OFF the ground. I definitely would not use the hand brake to lock the rear wheels, but get a helper to press hard on the brake. That's a huge amount of torque for the hand brake mechanism to take.
It's to account for stretch and flex in the threads after torquing. They will slack slightly after the immediate torque pressure is applied. Backing the nut off 60 degrees and retorquing accounts for that. If you notice, the nut actually turns farther the second time he torques it and this is because of that thread stretch.
It’s a ratchet, make use of it 👍
The ratchet function will keep you from unnecessarily removing and repositioning the socket.
Also, at certain intervals you have to dismantle and clean the center locks-there is a very thin washer that at first you might think is not there-
Follow the detailed instructions on which parts get or do not get the Optimol and how much to apply.
Don’t use any other “grease”.
Wheels off the ground only as you did-many people are tempted to “crack them loose” on the ground. Porsche is very specific about this.
Once you get used to the system, with discipline, it’s a sort of ritual.
And you want to trust yourself to do it correctly, your life depends on it👍
I really appreciate men like you taking the time out to throw some free knowledge at us guys that dream of owning a car like this one day. Hell, I'd pay just to meet you and shake your hand. When I was stationed in Iraq these are the type of videos I will watch to remind me of home and the good people I serve and protected. Now as an over the road truck driver I only dream that one day a car like this will pass me by so I can roll my window down to hear it. cheers brother!!
Thanks Jeff. I getting a 2015 GT3 in about 60 days and this video was an excellent find on my quest to absorb as much information on the car!! Kudos to you for taking the time and sharing...
I have been terrified to try this wheel change, but feel, now that I have watched the video, I can do it. I also need to rewatch this video a few more times. Thanks so much!!!
I don't even own a GT3, I own a 1.2 VW polo. But this video was so interesting haha, keep it up and loving the new wheels!
Great instructional video! Why i always hear from dealer to never mess with your center lock wheel. You made it look so easy!
im liking all these porsche gt3 instructional videos :D kinda hard to find on expensive cars.
Is there a link to the inspection document you are paging through? The one with the green checks and the red "x" in it? Please post a link if you don't mind. Great video.
Clear, concise, informative and well displayed video; First class job. Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to create and post this. Well done!
Thank you for sharing such a thorough attention to detail. I just picked up my first GT3 RS and was looking for help on changing these wheels. Thank you
Thanks! Needed that walkthrough to feel comfortable doing in on my RS
Omega Seamaster and Porsche 991 GT3? You sir have good taste =)
Thank you! Both outstanding!
Ruhr qguiii
@@jeffstrimel2349 bruh
Agree.
Why are you not using the ratchet of your torque wrench? You made 8 manual movements on one wheel and at the end finally used the ratchet for a single movement.
That deep sigh at 0:36 😂😂😂 cause he know this is finna be some bullshit
But with a 2 ft bar you can mostly just use your weight and a little 25-50 lb push to get that click, it’s still a crazy amount of torque.
Thanks Jeff. Need to check torque on mine periodically for HPDE and this video helps me a ton.
Thanks for the very helpful video. Great detail with good explanations. I Recently purchased a 2015 GT3 and trying to learn as much as I can.
made it look easy...thanks...nice tip on rear wheel brakes....I heard front wheel can be done with one front wheel on the ground, so clamp on brake not needed...
Great video. Very precise. I'm sure that must be why driving a Porsche is so awesome, the precision power and handling! Hope your lap times go well!
Beautiful car and great video. I was puzzled how to do this on my 911 Turbo S. Now I ordered the parts listed so I can follow the instructions. Thanks a lot
Thank you for showing how it’s done!
Hello Jeff, Please pass along "the document". Seems to be very helpful. Thanks.
Hi Jeff, would it be possible to send me this document regarding the center lock system as well please? Many thanks in advance for your help. Well done video 👍👍👍
More vide of anything on the 991 gt3. Thanks man
Thank you so much Jeff! TS 991 owner.
Thank you for posting this. While I do not have anything with center lock, it has always intrigued me to see the procedure performed. Do you know if these are similar to Cup Car mechanisms? Pneumatic guns make quick work of it, so maybe they are just not concerned with small galling or wear if parts are just replaced at the end of every race.
For now though, I think I'll remain glad I have standard lug nuts and studs to work with.
Definatly not recommended by Porsche
Nice job, Jeff, just what I was looking for......Thanks!
Thanks Jeff, very informative. I think I can tackle this now.
Thanks for the detailed video instructions. After viewing this I've decided not to get a GT Porsche with these wheels. It seems so much work to change a wheel.
Great vid. I don’t have those wheels but was curious. BTW, nice garage floor.
Thanks for the education.
I always wondered how center lock wheels work
Regards
Great Video
I was always taught to have the wheel on the floor when loosening and tightening the wheel
Saves stain on the Brakes and transmission
Not the case with CL system. Off the ground only-
That's a big torque wrench with a ratchet head. Then why you have to keep removing the socket and re-position the socket every quarter turn instead of letting the ratchet head do its job. I would have thought your way defeats the purpose of using a ratchet torque wrench and have more chances of marring the cosmetics because you have to keep repositioning the socket as you tighten it to spec.
Edit: Yes I didn't understand why he did that either: Precision Instruments (PREC4D600F)
Henry Ting I was thinking the exact same thing I was just waiting for him to hit that thing on his wheel by doing that.
Henry Ting not sure if this guy has ever worked on a car before
dude i was wondering the same thing. have no idea why he's doing that and why he's using a torque wrench to break his wheel loose....
The Precision Instruments (PREC4D600F) is actually BOTH a breaker bar and a torque wrench. It has two handles that are interchangeable. One is just a breaker bar and the other is the torque wrench. They both attach to the same head which is just a ratchet head. So he's using the breaker bar to break the nut loose and the torque bar to tighten them. Though why he isn't using the ratchet function is also beyond me. Edit: He also put this in writing in the video at 3:26
Thank you. This was very helpful. Nice work.
Jeff. Great helpful instructions. Thanks much!
omg that's crazy, 1inch breaker bar & 1 inch torque bar , special wheels , special socket to remove the center nut , then you have to inspect the nut , nipples , hub surface & wheel seat :O
the presentation was quite informative!
At 12:55. you do realize that is a ratcheting torque wrench and there is no need to remove the centerlock socket and torque wrench to move it and then reinstall it where needed.
awesome video! lovin the OZs! just got them for my 997 GTS Cabriolet! Drive safe! :)
TIL how center lock wheels work. Thanks! Good video.
I had no idea how involved a center lock wheel change was for a porsche. I'll stick with my wheel bolts. Great video, well done!
5:56 "You wanna look at these nipples, you wanna make sure that they're smooth" Couldn't help but giggle at that.
Thanks Jeff, nice video. Could you send me the manual you paged thru that showed the inspection points
Hi Jeff, would it be possible to send me this document regarding the center lock system as well please? Many thanks in advance for your help. Well done video 👍👍👍
Thanks for the video!!!! It"s pain in the butt changing the tires : (
Optimol grease is the same stuff that's used to lubricate Darda rock splitters since the 70's. Yes I'm old.
Can you explain why you do not loosen the bolt when the car/tire is on the ground, jack it up, swap the wheels, tighten it lightly, drop the car back down, and then torque it (how I have done it for 30 years ....). I have never jacked up the entire car, but rather swap one wheel at the time (unless it's in a garage).
You can loosen / break the bolt free while on the ground. You can certainly do one corner at a time as well, however, YOU MUST torque these while in the air, then back off and re torque. I agree with 5 lugs it was always snug up then torque on the ground. Not with these. Snug and torque while suspended.
NEVER loosen or tighten with wheels on the ground. These instructions are factory specific so don’t do it, ever-
The 'tightening center lock to 450 ft-lb' technique is incorrect. At video 14:14, he uses the big torque wrench in a 'PUSH DOWN' scenario. This places UNDO stress on the Suspension components - namely the shock that has to resist that 450 ft-lb torque. The PROPER method is to use the "LIFT UP method' You LIFT UP on the big torque wrench to apply the torque, so the resistance is against the car spring (normal suspension travel). This applies to loosening as well - I recommend to always use the "LIFT UP" on torque wrench.
While there is nothing wrong with the logic the technique is not "incorrect". The force applied to the suspension components under a downward torque motion is still far less than the stresses the components endure during normal track work. Its really a matter of preference vs. necessity. Do what you're comfortable with for sure but don't worry either way.
"The force applied to the suspension components under a downward torque motion is still far less than the stresses the components endure during normal track work. " - this is simply not true. There is no normal track driving or street driving force that puts a downward load on an already extended suspension - namely the OEM shocks. Do the math, 4ft (48' inch bar) with 450 ft-lb = 112LBs of unnecessary downward force the shocks have to support. The factory uses a special torque gun. You might get away with it occasionally but repeated cycles will break the shock seals and cause more wear than needed - hence the technique is not recommended.
sl951 I agree with your logic but loading a 3100 lbs car on a valley and cresting over a hill or getting airborne does the same thing if not worse.
Why can't do initial loosen and final tighten with the car on the ground (like normal wheels)? seems silly to have to block the brake pedal with a spreader thing. Excuse my ignorance.
I thought about this. Either its not possible or this guy met a salesguy fooling him.
@@Ralgog lol
Never loosen or tighten with wheels on the ground. Porsche is very specific about this. Also never allow a shop to do so if you’re not doing it yourself-
13:33 a nice short extension will come in handy. Interesting vid, wondering how easy is would be to change centre hubs to 5 stud (on a GTS)
Great Video. But why is this better than the usual lug nut system? This is quite complicated considering you could blow a tire on the road.
Great explanation , is it possible you can send me the document of rennlist, or give me guidance where i can find it ? Hardcore 2015 911 gts driver from the netherlands, highly appreciated, cheers Rob
after torquing to 450ft lbs, why loosen then tighten back to 450ft lbs? to spread the grease around better? Also what is the weight difference on your OZ wheels vs the stock 14 gt3 wheels? they look great
I was thinking the same thing...
Porsche says you do this. So you do it. Mechanically, it fully seats the wheel, and spreads the grease. Then you get a nice, tighter final seating.
No disassembly of the center lock nut? Cone, washer etc?
Thank you so much, this is really helpful.
Thanks Jeff for sharing this
Is it really necessary to switch back to the breaker bar to loosen the torque after you torque it the first time? I know Obsessed Garaged just loosened the nut with the torque wrench part still attached, he just didn't put any pressure on the torque wrench part. I just did it that way as well and it worked fine. That way you don't have to switch back and forth between the TQ wrench and breaker bar.
(at 6:38) You describe the center lock nut as a "bolt"? The at 11:24 you call it a "nut"?
helpful information - thanks for posting.... 'go ahead' and go ahead
FYI buy a torque multiplier wrench to loosen the wheel nut. It will save you time and the fear of scratching your car
Hi Jeff,
I recently purchased the spare CL wheel kit.
The spare wheel (Part # 991-362-021-02) is a standard 5 lug wheel with an adapter (Part # 991-362-191-00) bolted to the wheel with 5 bolts (991-361-209-00). It has its own CL bolt (Part # 991-361-181-50). The kit also contains two compact spacers one for the front and a bigger one for the rear. Note: The rear spacer is also called the shim. The part # for the front spacer is 9P1-601-271 (old part # is 991-362-193-00) and the part # for the rear spacer (shim) is 9P1-601-271-A (old part # is 991-362-195-00).
Now the real question.
If I get a flat in the front, I think it's fairly clear about putting the spare with front spacer and using the front spacer.
The problem is with the rear. I have heard two different opinions here
(1) Remove the good front wheel and install in the rear along with the rear spacer (shim) and instal the spare in the front with the front spacer.
(2) Install the spare with the rear spacer (shim) in the rear and don't do anything to the good front.
Does anyone here know which one of these are accurate?
Any help with this will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Deb
Hi Jeff, great thread and share. Can you send/post or share the "mdrums" CL document that you are referencing in the video? I am unable to source it from Rennlist, but still working on it. Thank you ahead of time!
That's definitely something you'd need to practice many times to get quick at it. If I was switching wheels/tires for track days, I'd have to show up a few hours early just to make sure I have time haha
No you don't. This tool doesn't shouldn't "work" on his car.
Loosen lugs on the ground. Jack up the front, then rear, swap all four corners, snug the lug back up, drop the car, torque.
Should take 15 minutes tops. This wanker is embarrassing.
He's taking his time to be informative. The center lug system is the fastest way to complete tire changes for racing.
Jeff, would you happen to have the model # to the Race Ramps, and to verify that you elevated the rear before using the jack?
Great video! Jeff, how long are the breaker bar and toque wrench handle? It seemed like you were able to exert the force needed for 600 NM without too much difficulty? How would it compare to the force required for a regular car with a 12" lug nut wrench for 110 ft-lbs?
hello. can you tell me what keeps the lock tight inside the centrelock hub? thanks
Hello Jeff, Is that document available anywhere? I'm doing the same swap, for the same reason on my 2015 GTS
Wears his Seamaster. Respect.
Is a link to the centerlock wheel sheets that you leaf though in your video available somewhere? Thanks for the heads up for that centering pin recommendation since I have those PCCB discs on my car. Now to get another torque wrench...will have them all then.
Hey man. What’s the reason to not just jack up left side, change those wheels, then let it down, jack up right side. Repeat?
Where can I find a download of the inspection document you used? Or is it possible for you to pose a downloadable link for us? Thanks.
How big is the spreader clamp?
Do you know for what the STOP and 100Nm labeling is good for ?
Very cool car, thanks for sharing.
is the Irwin quick grip 1 24" or 36" unit? Thanks for any information...
It should be noted, you should always loosen the wheels while on the ground.
Not Porsche CLs. They need to be in the air.
NEVER on the ground, Porsche is quite specific about this-
Where did you buy the optimol paste? Can't find it anywhere!!
Great video...thank you!
Good video 👍
This seems like a whole lot of added complexity vs. a five lug for basically zero tangible improvement.
Yeah it's basically an answer from Porsche to a questions no one asked.
This should make it pretty obvious why center locks are a huge advantage in racing:
ruclips.net/video/aHSUp7msCIE/видео.html
@@garrettcarlson7844 between 0:00 and 17:53 it does not show the advantage of:
ruclips.net/video/aHSUp7msCIE/видео.html
It does show the disadvantage.
Socket located underneath front lip? What does that mean?
Yo, it's nothing to clean off and replace anti-seize. Yeah there's dry lubricants in there but there's wet lubricants in there too that cook off during use. Now what's left degrades faster under further heat cycles.
Would slightly loosening the center lock with the vehicle on the ground make it a bit easier, Rather than holding the brake pedal with the vehicle in the air?
Factory specific instructions- loosen and tighten with wheels off the ground only.
Hey Jeff. Great video. How can I get in contact with you in regards to getting a copy of the guide that you spoke of and showed in the video? - Steve
Why not loosen nut with wheels on ground, then jack up to remove/replace? Why not use torque wrench and blast them off/on and torque wrench for final tighten?
Factory instructions are very specific, off the ground only-
Hi! That attachment you used (fitted to your torque wrench) to rotate the centre cap. Where do you get that attachment?
+JK Low /comes with the car's tool kit
So the Aventador ones work the same ?
I’m planning to get a 2020 GTS. If I have to take it to a regular tire shop, would they be able to this procedure properly ?
I hope you figured this out by now, but no, do not go to a regular tire shop :)
I'm curious on what keeps the hub from spinning inside the wheel with center locks. Is it purely just friction?
The five big studs (called "nipples" in the video, which is good, too) engage holes in the back of the wheel, taking all of the torque the same way that conventional studs work with a conventional wheel.
can you loosen the bolt and then jack it up? so you wouldn't have to clamp or hold down the brakes.
No, Porsche CLs on 997 and 991 cars need to be in the air according to Porsche.
lol i love how you treat everything like its glass when it carries a 1 ton super car at 180 mph on pavement.
...and it’s designed for quick pit stop changes, by using the mad pneumatic wrenches🤣
How come the interior of the wheel is so clean? I understand this is must be a second car.
Souheib Merge it's obvious why is clean. The car is not being used for its purpose which was racing. Hope it is now with the new set of wheels
he stated lightly used 5k miles..nicely broken in in other words.
Hi i have a 911 GT3 owner who wants to change his tyres at my shop and doesn't want to go through the agent as they charge quite high to change tyres. I would like to know where i can get all the necessary tools to open the center lock wheels and if the tool can be used for all Porsche models with center locks? I highly appreciate your reply. thank you
Everything except the torque wrench is in the car. Read the Porsche literature VERY carefully before doing this and be sure to use the new torque setting of 440 ft/lbs.
The wheels must be tightened when OFF the ground. I definitely would not use the hand brake to lock the rear wheels, but get a helper to press hard on the brake. That's a huge amount of torque for the hand brake mechanism to take.
Always loosen and tighten nut when wheels are on ground, and it's bad ,that You loosen nut using torque wrench. Its meant for tightening only.
NEVER loosen or tighten these center locks on the ground!!! EVER
Has a car with center locks for changing wheels quickly....changes a wheel in 15 minutes.
its faster with a impact wrench
You'll destroy these CLs using an impact. The manual says specifically your warranty is voided on CLs if you use an impact.
How can I get the direction for grease
Hey,do standard steel brakes fade too much or produce dust whatsoever under the high tension they are on track ? Is stopping power sufficient ?
The steel brakes on the 991 are every bit sufficient under high demand on the track. They do create dust but that's to be expected.
Do you use super sport or Cup tires?
14:20 It's only important if your race group doesn't trust its racers to torque right the first time.
It's to account for stretch and flex in the threads after torquing. They will slack slightly after the immediate torque pressure is applied. Backing the nut off 60 degrees and retorquing accounts for that. If you notice, the nut actually turns farther the second time he torques it and this is because of that thread stretch.
Stupid question can you break those center lock lugs loose while the wheels are on the ground or is that a no no??
NEVER loosen or tighten on the ground-
where did you buy the race ramp?