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Jeff Strimel
Добавлен 12 окт 2013
2015 Porsche 911 GT3 GMG Exhaust Center Section Start Up
First start after install of a GMG exhaust center section bypass on a 2015 Porsche 911 GT3. WICKED!
Просмотров: 2 450
Видео
Porsche 911 991 GT3 Center Lock Wheel Removal and Replacement Procedure
Просмотров 260 тыс.10 лет назад
Hands on video showing the procedure for removing and replacing the Center Lock wheels on a Porsche 911 991 GT3.
Hi Jeff, would it be possible to send me this document regarding the center lock system as well please? Many thanks in advance for your help. Well done video 👍👍👍
No disassembly of the center lock nut? Cone, washer etc?
Hello Jeff, Please pass along "the document". Seems to be very helpful. Thanks.
Hi Jeff, would it be possible to send me this document regarding the center lock system as well please? Many thanks in advance for your help. Well done video 👍👍👍
I know this video is extremely old but does anyone have the document? Maybe a link to it?
Hey man. What’s the reason to not just jack up left side, change those wheels, then let it down, jack up right side. Repeat?
Omg leave it to t he germans to make a simple thing like a tire change into brain surgery...idiotic
How big is the spreader clamp?
Hello Jeff, Is that document available anywhere? I'm doing the same swap, for the same reason on my 2015 GTS
Thanks! Needed that walkthrough to feel comfortable doing in on my RS
The only thing I see here is a lot of unsprung mass getting added to the car...
Tell that to all the race car engineers, I’m sure they’ll agree with you
@@MarkCalica i don't need them to agree. I know what I'm seing.
@@HristovRumen “seeing” okie…
Thank you for showing how it’s done!
hello. can you tell me what keeps the lock tight inside the centrelock hub? thanks
what do you mean dont use the torque part when breaking the bolt...
Proper way to remove lug nuts is break lug nut or that center lock on the ground and to re torque when tire barely meets the ground. Don't use that cheap clamp on brake pedal especially on that expensive and potentially damage your seat material.
This is not accurate for anyone reading, centerlock torque must be broken with wheels off the ground. The weight of the car is on the threads when on ground.
Yo, it's nothing to clean off and replace anti-seize. Yeah there's dry lubricants in there but there's wet lubricants in there too that cook off during use. Now what's left degrades faster under further heat cycles.
Cleetus sent me here
Jeff, would you happen to have the model # to the Race Ramps, and to verify that you elevated the rear before using the jack?
Do you know for what the STOP and 100Nm labeling is good for ?
Optimol grease is the same stuff that's used to lubricate Darda rock splitters since the 70's. Yes I'm old.
Center lock in porsche 911 gt3
Great Video. But why is this better than the usual lug nut system? This is quite complicated considering you could blow a tire on the road.
Nice Omega Seamaster
Short Race Ramps, the product # please? stack of four (4) objects ??? to the right of the jack stands, brand name, part # of spreader? I don't want to have to re-watch the video again...not quite ready to do a wheel swap yet.....as mentioned below, inspiring video. 😁
I am wanting to know exact same part numbers, etc.
My guess is he used a 36" as it's aprox 25-26" from depressed brake pedal to seat edge.
I have been terrified to try this wheel change, but feel, now that I have watched the video, I can do it. I also need to rewatch this video a few more times. Thanks so much!!!
Nipples do indeed look smooth, thanks
This sounds like a pain in the ass
Thank you for sharing such a thorough attention to detail. I just picked up my first GT3 RS and was looking for help on changing these wheels. Thank you
Wears his Seamaster. Respect.
In 1969 I bought an XKE with wire wheels and knock off hubs and a big lead hammer. Never felt comfortable. The next owner said, "Why are the spinners so beat to hell?"
Great video...thank you!
Why Porsche just didn't use the CL Cup car setup on their road cars where you can use a normal impact is beyond me. ruclips.net/video/VpngNCMYC6U/видео.html
Respect
Thanks. I see, this is how the McLaren F1's wheel nut works. God bless, Revelation 21:4
Good video 👍
Hi Jeff, I recently purchased the spare CL wheel kit. The spare wheel (Part # 991-362-021-02) is a standard 5 lug wheel with an adapter (Part # 991-362-191-00) bolted to the wheel with 5 bolts (991-361-209-00). It has its own CL bolt (Part # 991-361-181-50). The kit also contains two compact spacers one for the front and a bigger one for the rear. Note: The rear spacer is also called the shim. The part # for the front spacer is 9P1-601-271 (old part # is 991-362-193-00) and the part # for the rear spacer (shim) is 9P1-601-271-A (old part # is 991-362-195-00). Now the real question. If I get a flat in the front, I think it's fairly clear about putting the spare with front spacer and using the front spacer. The problem is with the rear. I have heard two different opinions here (1) Remove the good front wheel and install in the rear along with the rear spacer (shim) and instal the spare in the front with the front spacer. (2) Install the spare with the rear spacer (shim) in the rear and don't do anything to the good front. Does anyone here know which one of these are accurate? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Deb
F1 teams do this way faster lol
Thanks Jeff, nice video. Could you send me the manual you paged thru that showed the inspection points
TIL how center lock wheels work. Thanks! Good video.
FYI buy a torque multiplier wrench to loosen the wheel nut. It will save you time and the fear of scratching your car
At 12:55. you do realize that is a ratcheting torque wrench and there is no need to remove the centerlock socket and torque wrench to move it and then reinstall it where needed.
Is it really necessary to switch back to the breaker bar to loosen the torque after you torque it the first time? I know Obsessed Garaged just loosened the nut with the torque wrench part still attached, he just didn't put any pressure on the torque wrench part. I just did it that way as well and it worked fine. That way you don't have to switch back and forth between the TQ wrench and breaker bar.
Is there a link to the inspection document you are paging through? The one with the green checks and the red "x" in it? Please post a link if you don't mind. Great video.
Thanks for the very helpful video. Great detail with good explanations. I Recently purchased a 2015 GT3 and trying to learn as much as I can.
Where did you buy the optimol paste? Can't find it anywhere!!
Great video! Jeff, how long are the breaker bar and toque wrench handle? It seemed like you were able to exert the force needed for 600 NM without too much difficulty? How would it compare to the force required for a regular car with a 12" lug nut wrench for 110 ft-lbs?
I'm curious on what keeps the hub from spinning inside the wheel with center locks. Is it purely just friction?
The five big studs (called "nipples" in the video, which is good, too) engage holes in the back of the wheel, taking all of the torque the same way that conventional studs work with a conventional wheel.
Nice job, Jeff, just what I was looking for......Thanks!
is the Irwin quick grip 1 24" or 36" unit? Thanks for any information...
made it look easy...thanks...nice tip on rear wheel brakes....I heard front wheel can be done with one front wheel on the ground, so clamp on brake not needed...
That deep sigh at 0:36 😂😂😂 cause he know this is finna be some bullshit
But with a 2 ft bar you can mostly just use your weight and a little 25-50 lb push to get that click, it’s still a crazy amount of torque.