Nice tutorial. Like you said consistency is the most important thing. We all feel things differently. I used to drive for a company in Germany and we had a Mercedes factory tech at dealer ship next door. He was close to retirement thirty years ago. He set the valves without a feeler gauge just by feel. We would check him all the time and I don’t think any of us could have done a better job using feeler gauges. 🤣🤣 He was one of a kind and grumpy as hell, but probably one of the best mechanics I had been around.
Cool story, I love comments like that with a personal story. We had a guy that would do that with the camshaft backlash, he was always on too, never had one that coded.
I think it’s kinda funny the timing of this video. I just did my first overhead adjustment on a 3406e yesterday. Learning how to do this stuff at a tech school rn
Thanks for responding to my email about this video. I was considering redoing my overhead when I got back home until you explain the difference between this and the older video. I’ve heard other truckers mention how helpful your videos are, hope you continue these great videos for many more year.
Running an overhead is probably the most complicated thing to do on an engine, other than cutting counterbores, it's totally understandable to not want to do one without an expert there to show you in person.
" overhead is probably the most complicated thing to do" Hmmm, I've never worked on a CAT engine but it really didn't look that bad. Good instructions right here so just keep the video handy and you should be good to go.
@@Mikheno Overhead and the gear train are the most complicated things to remove and install on engines. It’s hard to mess up dropping pistons in holes. It’s possible but very hard to mess up
@@mahart40 Just saying that after watching this video I would definitely tackle this job if I needed to. i do most of my own wrenching when possible and this required no special tools or heavy lifting (those two will stop me!). It looked time consuming but Josh explained it very well. I think the average wrench could do this if he just takes his time and keeps track of where the crank is and which valves are next on the list. JMO!
I'm watching this because just yesterday we did an over head on an old Detroit at diesel class and seeing adap ape video gives me the confidence on doing it properly
In 1st year shop class they had us torque the adjuster to 6 in-lbs before torquing the nut, which doesn't sound like a lot, but feeler gauge was so tight you had to pull with all your body weight to remove it. Good to see another mechanic doing it properly
I was told the step on the Injector tool was for different prefixes. When my boss taught me how to adjust valves he said that engines with an 800HP cam and all 6NZs used the top step, everything else was lower. I don't know how much truth there it to that, but that's what i was taught.
This is beautifully simple! Wish I could have learned this way first. But I don't run valves much any more. In a previous life I worked on mining equipment. Used dial indicators instead of feeler gauges on Cat 3512's and 3516's.
Did sixties through 2000s in German Car shops. Can adjust 911 valves no feeler gauge and be spot on. I always check it. But I built a tenth of a turn screwdriver and locked it down, and used the tighten up and let it sit , then the process. Valve adjustment is so satisfying imo
On # 1, IE-IE-IE, on #6, EI-EI-OH YEAH, gotta set 6 ! And, on the 3400's, no feeler gages needed. Run the intake until it touches the valve back off 1/4 turn. On the ex., run it down and back off 1/2 turn.
Really enjoy you videos. I'm a Mack-Volvo Technician and always check where valve Clearances are at before adjustment, and have caught a few bad valve recessions before the valve has chipped and cracked the liner, I know Cat doesn't have a problem with there valves so not necessary here, but It's habbit for me now, does take longer though. Keep up the good work.
Cat can definitely eat a valve, just like every engine. I do compare all the adjustments at the end and look for discrepancies between them. I only check them if someone wants them checked first though, takes much longer for me with those floating rocker buttons, can be very difficult to get a feeler gauge in there.
Mack-Volvo tech also. The finger tight adjust works on them too. Haha. 👍🏼 quickest and easiest way. Get pretty good at adjusting valves on them to when you’re replacing injectors all the time.
Nice video. I like how you use torque wrenches rather than "the feel" method for the lock nut. I torque everything hexegonical; ball joints, wheel lugs, door hanger bolts. I like the tip to "squeeze all the oil out". I never thought to tighten on top of a feeler gauge. Cummins Dealee near me wants $800.00 to do a Valve-Overhead on my 2000 Cummin N14 SelectPlus.
You da bomb!!! Thanks for continued learning tools and info. Appreciate your added insights as well as destructions of the week and sense of humor too...keep us posted. Thanks a lot 👍
I was taught that a similar "feel" would be comparable to putting a feeler gauge in a mic with a clutch and sliding it back and forth once tightened with the clutch (the light drag "feel"). Go No Go is a good check when in tough areas....thanks. Love the destruction!
I found that if you take a tarp strap and run it over the head of the pen so you have tension on the strap, as you turn over the motor the strap will pull the pen in to the timing hole
On my engine brake adjustment, best way I remember is. If I adjust the front side (number one). I adjust all the front's. And same on the rear, I adjust the rear (number six), I adjust all the rear side. On EUI's , if I am on number 1, I use my .356 plus my 1 or my .357 pistol. If the rocker arms have been removed. I turn the engine two rounds to seat the valve train in place. And to make sure I didn't screw up and have a bridge get out of place. I also check valves for over lap, just in case flywheel is on wrong.
One before this one I did had 2 pin holes in the flywheel, I always check for valves opening and closing though and was very confused 🤔. Then figured out that it wasn't truly pinned. Rotated it around some more and then found the correct pin hole. I never thought about the Jake adjustment like that before, but you are right.
Yeppers that's the Best an Easiest way to go about it , it's quite easy really , I was doing it this way back in the 80's when I was Fleet Tech . I have to say I am envious of the Internet &RUclips man what I would have given to have this Kinda info at my fingertips back then .
I would love to see your home made engine turning tool. I've had many 3406s since my first 3406A in 1976 but I learn something new every time I watch you. Keep up the good work Josh.
so many ways to skin a cat! the big lebowski, your stepping into a world of pain my friend! great video and the biggest thing is don't over complicate it.
Oddly enough there's a hybird two stroke 4180 series Stihl motor that uses intake and exhaust valves to reduce emissions. It's the same principle to adjust lash to .010. No injector or Jake in this instance but the locking tool and and methods are nearly identical. The Germans concept on "light drag" takes three pages to explain also 😑.
Loose u joint of the week. That may have needed a "strap kit". Because they can stretch. So you replace the straps. The copper thing was a stop gap idea i bet.
I just bought a turning tool the other day as the few times I have needed to turn my 3406E or C15 over I had to use the balancer bolt heads but the fan is in the way so bad and risking cracking the fan blades doing the wrong thing and oh so much fun pinning the engine with no third hand so I devised a way of using a bungee strap to put a little pressure on a bolt used as my pinning device but I see now I need a rounded end as the pinning hole would pass by my bolt way too easy, I was not having fun with that aspect. I've only ran the overhead on the C15 once ( accert so IVA's ) and the instructions I found never made mention about turning the valve or jake adjuster in to push or bleed oil out, well I did that wrong then !. It had an uneven jake sound before I did the overhead and that took care of it so I obviously improved the balance between cylinders. I have a question related to the short torque wrench adapters, is it possible to find decent ones for far less then Snap On price or is that impossible to find as those are specialty tools that not just anyone would carry or make for that matter. I was using the box end wrench to snug it up while holding the adjuster and then was resigned to using a socket for the final torque and rechecking the drag. Also what is the recommended hours or miles between adjustments as my trucks do a lot of idling on the farm but put on few miles and "assume" idling hours don't put the same wear per hour as pulling a load down the road would.
A lot of info on a comment, but Jakes and compression brakes can be set different depending on the model of Engine, brake and whatnot. Best to check for your specific application. For the torque adapters, check out the video description. There is a really nice Proto set that sells for $130 for a complete set, just click on the link. Cheaper than the Snap on set I have and a more complete set.
@@AdeptApe Thank you for the info on the wrenches, too bad I had already bought a turning tool as I could have bought the three piece set for less and even ordering across the boarder !
@@AdeptApe no, cut the head off the bolt, added two dobs of weld either side of the bolt, tidied it up with the belt sander and slid the spring over the top
I recently happened across a video of a fellow adjusting the jakes on an MXS with the typical .027" feeler gauge, but he had the .030" feeler still between the rocker and the valve bridge. Is that a no-no or is there some merit to that?
Could you do a short video on the injector height tool on a injector out of the engine? I think I understand but want to make sure what step your talking about and body. Thanks
If you have the tool, it has a top step and a bottom step, If you set the injectors where the bottom step is sticking out slightly will advance the fuel timing 2 degrees.
Light drag can be subjective. Example: My mech will use a 0.030 blade to set and 0.031 check. If 0.030 goes and 0.031 does not go, he knows it is exact. Is this not correct?
What brand of paint marker do you find works the best for writing on those somewhat oily surfaces? I find different brands can differ greatly in quality and how long they last etc. Excellent video, good tips.
If I remember correctly, which I may be wrong on part of this but I believe the slugs can move around and they take up the vibration from the camshaft.
You should have the valves set anytime they are unbolted or at certain service intervals. On an EUI engine like this you would want to have them set since they would be removed to replace the injectors.
I have a question not video related. I have a volvo common rain diesel, and I suspect one or two bad injectors. My question is, does a faulty injector make the fuel line vibrate less? Because when i put my fingers on the lines, 3 of them vibrate basicly the same, one vibrates less and the last one barely vibrates. Can i asume that the injectors with the least vibrations are faulty? Or is that method bs?
Hey josh I have a 3406e and the cam is starting to go bad .I found #5 injector lobe just starting to spall should i buy a CAT cam or do you think aftermarket is ok?
Please answer me if you see my comment . I have cat c7 and my engine blow gallon off oil every 30 miles out off the breathing hose . It’s wired no power lose the engine run fine . That’s too much oil what you think the reason might be ? Please answer if you can
@@AdeptApe thank you for responding . it’s very expensive to fix this engine , can I install oil can with oil return line ? If yes which one do you suggest
Deer sir I remove engine 3408c contacting rod bearing position which side fixed contacting rod bearing arrow position twin contacting rod ihop you information me
I'm always curious how you manage to not move the adjuster when torquing down the lock nut. That's probably the main thing that worries me outside of pinning the engine.
You have to hold the adjuster t handle or whatever you are using firm when torquing it. If it moves you'll know because when you check the feeler gauge before removing it, it will be too tight or loose.
jake lash is dependent on horsepower, 30 is for a 550 hp, craftsman makes a long handle stub bit flat screwdriver that works awesome for overheads, did you do the rocker bolt update?
@@AdeptApe pretty sure it should have three six point bolt heads and one 12 point bolt with the update, i really hate them after the update as you have to swap sockets to avoid bending the rocker shaft, it would be it the tsb information in the cat news letter from years ago about 2007ish, while your looking for it look for the flywheel washer thickness for clutch face clearance, almost no one read that one, 5mm washer down to 3mm washers
@@AdeptApe What he is referring to if you have a 3406 E and you wish to install a Jacobs brake new (340 series), it will come with nine 257-2122 six point bolts and three twelve point bolts. So it don't hurt to update the older 340's to the later 6NZ's /MBN/BXS set up. I do it at the time of rebuild or if I have a rocker arm bolt failure.
@@johngoldsmith6629 I have those bolts but where do they go? The 3 are 12 point the 9 are hex but they didn't say where they go I cant find any pics I have a 98 1LW
@@bigred1247 If you look inside the Jacob's housing the third hole from the front is your oil supply. These bolts will not work on a PACbrake. Now the spec for the 12 point head was 80 FT LBS. If you still use ALL 12 point. This is what the repair manual states for your engine, using one 12 point and three 6 point per housing. Tightening Sequence for Current Mounting Bolts A change to the tightening procedure for 340 Series compression brakes has produced two different sets of mounting bolts. The set of noncurrent mounting bolts can be identified by the exclusive use of 12 point bolts for mounting the compression brake to the cylinder head. Refer to Illustration 1. The set of current mounting bolts can be identified by containing 3 hex head bolts and one twelve point bolt. Refer to Illustration 3. The torque sequence and the bolt locations for installation of the Jake Brake compression brake. Install hex head bolts (1), (3), and (4) into the positions that are shown in Illustration 3. Install the 12 point bolt (2) across from the mounting stud for the compression brake. Install the mounting stud nut (5) onto the mounting stud. Finger tighten the mounting bolts and the mounting stud nut. Note: Ensure that the placement of the bolts agree with the bolt locations that are shown in Illustration 3. Incorrect placement of the bolts will result in a loss of brake performance. Refer to the torque sequence that is shown in Illustration 3. Tighten bolts (1), (2), (3), and (4) to the following preload torque. Preload torque for bolts ... 50 ± 7 N·m (37 ± 5 lb ft) Tighten mounting stud nut (5) to the following preload torque. Preload torque for mounting stud nut ... 50 ± 7 N·m (37 ± 5 lb ft) Use the torque sequence that is shown in Illustration 3. Tighten bolts (1), (2), (3), and (4) to the following torque-turn angle. (My comments Front to rear bolts are listed as 3, 1, 2, 4, nut is number 5. So 2 is 12 point hole 3rd back ) Tighten the bolts for this additional torque-turn angle. ... 90 ± 5° Tighten mounting stud nut (5) to the following torque-turn angle. Tighten the mounting stud nut for this additional torque-turn angle. ... 90 ± 5° Note: Some of the early 340, 340A, and 340B compression brakes utilized two mounting studs that are located in the front of the brake housing. If your application has two mounting studs, tighten the second mounting stud nut as the last nut in the torque sequence. Refer to Steps 3 and 5. Typical view of a Jake Brake compression brake (6) Final torque for solenoid valve ... 13 N·m (9 lb ft) (7) Final torque for slave piston adjustment screw locknuts ... 34 N·m (25 lb ft) (8) Final torque for installation of the mounting stud into the cylinder head ... 65 ± 10 N·m (48 ± 7 lb ft)
I have a problem i hope someone can help me with , my truck has cat c7 and leaks oil when I’m driving it , if turn the truck on and stay on park no leaks at all but soon as I start moving oil start leaking from the breathing hose
I'm pissed at RT!😂 Don't like him already! 😂He reminds me of me 200 years ago cuz that's exactly what I'd have told you.😂😂 sorry I couldn't keep a straight face. good idea to color code the rockers helps me keep it straight in my head got several good ideas from this video. - thanks
I only did the color coding for the video, hopefully it'll help people. Would have been more fun on a C-12 where the valves are in different positions over every cylinder.
Where'd you get your damper-turning tool? There are times where it takes a lot of time to get to the flywheel access plate or there's no clearance to get a ratchet and socket on a damper bolt.
So I have 2 different ones. OTC makes one for serpentine belt drive front drives, the other one is a custom piece that we had at my old shop and I made my own with the same design.
I check them all to check for valve issues then adjust them all. This way you can catch a valve issues and remove the head before a failure. Not necessary but an extra step I like to do.
That is a very good point, I will generally pin it first and work my way down through each valve that should be adjusted in that rotation by simply working the rocker up and down by hand while looking 4 very tight or loose valves. It's a very quick way to catch a bad cam follower on a C12 or C13 which are nearly impossible to visually inspect.
Age and style. The solenoid styles changed a couple times over the years. Metal guard, no metal guard, etc. Sometimes ReMans will even come with the old style, if the solenoid met re-use specs. The solenoids on this style of injector are very robust. I've seen more failures due to harness over-torque or handling abuse than from actual failure.
Hey just saying your job as a mechanic doing a top set isn’t to do it fast... it’s to prevent premature wear and keep the engine running better and longer. You want to check all the clearances where they sit. That way if somethings way out of adjustment you’ll know and can investigate. If you just loosen them all off before even looking you’ll miss any problems and just put the valve cover back on sending the poor trucker on his way
I work at Caterpillar. Its so cool seeing the real mechanics do what we do without all the specialized tools
I've set valve lash on close to 1000 cat engines at this point
Haha dude flipping you off while closing the door was great.
Nice tutorial. Like you said consistency is the most important thing. We all feel things differently. I used to drive for a company in Germany and we had a Mercedes factory tech at dealer ship next door. He was close to retirement thirty years ago. He set the valves without a feeler gauge just by feel. We would check him all the time and I don’t think any of us could have done a better job using feeler gauges. 🤣🤣 He was one of a kind and grumpy as hell, but probably one of the best mechanics I had been around.
Cool story, I love comments like that with a personal story. We had a guy that would do that with the camshaft backlash, he was always on too, never had one that coded.
@@AdeptApe Skill.. none the less.
I think it’s kinda funny the timing of this video. I just did my first overhead adjustment on a 3406e yesterday. Learning how to do this stuff at a tech school rn
I posted it one day too late.
@@AdeptApe chỉ cho em cách chỉnh thứ tự nổ từng máy đi anh
Thanks for responding to my email about this video. I was considering redoing my overhead when I got back home until you explain the difference between this and the older video. I’ve heard other truckers mention how helpful your videos are, hope you continue these great videos for many more year.
Thank you Jerry, I try to make helpful and somewhat entertaining videos for you hard working truck, bus, RV engine owners out there.
I don't have enough confidence to do this yet but I know my mechanic backs off on all just like you showed!! Thank you for your knowledge!!
Running an overhead is probably the most complicated thing to do on an engine, other than cutting counterbores, it's totally understandable to not want to do one without an expert there to show you in person.
" overhead is probably the most complicated thing to do" Hmmm, I've never worked on a CAT engine but it really didn't look that bad. Good instructions right here so just keep the video handy and you should be good to go.
@@Mikheno Overhead and the gear train are the most complicated things to remove and install on engines. It’s hard to mess up dropping pistons in holes. It’s possible but very hard to mess up
@@mahart40 Just saying that after watching this video I would definitely tackle this job if I needed to. i do most of my own wrenching when possible and this required no special tools or heavy lifting (those two will stop me!). It looked time consuming but Josh explained it very well. I think the average wrench could do this if he just takes his time and keeps track of where the crank is and which valves are next on the list. JMO!
@@Mikheno pretty much, only advantage to being a dealer tech is all the special info you have access to. everything else is easy
I'm watching this because just yesterday we did an over head on an old Detroit at diesel class and seeing adap ape video gives me the confidence on doing it properly
A bungee core and a bolt for a cheap pinning tool. As always this channel teaches on every skill level.
Also works, I've done that before, but sometimes there aren't good hinge points for the bungee and sometimes there isn't room for the pinning tool.
In 1st year shop class they had us torque the adjuster to 6 in-lbs before torquing the nut, which doesn't sound like a lot, but feeler gauge was so tight you had to pull with all your body weight to remove it. Good to see another mechanic doing it properly
I was told the step on the Injector tool was for different prefixes. When my boss taught me how to adjust valves he said that engines with an 800HP cam and all 6NZs used the top step, everything else was lower. I don't know how much truth there it to that, but that's what i was taught.
This is beautifully simple! Wish I could have learned this way first. But I don't run valves much any more. In a previous life I worked on mining equipment. Used dial indicators instead of feeler gauges on Cat 3512's and 3516's.
RT seems to tell it like it is and doesn’t hide his true feelings! 😂😂😂
It's really interesting to see how different people do things like this
Did sixties through 2000s in German Car shops. Can adjust 911 valves no feeler gauge and be spot on. I always check it. But I built a tenth of a turn screwdriver and locked it down, and used the tighten up and let it sit , then the process. Valve adjustment is so satisfying imo
153624
15: to young
36: too old
24: just right
On # 1, IE-IE-IE, on #6, EI-EI-OH YEAH, gotta set 6 ! And, on the 3400's, no feeler gages needed. Run the intake until it touches the valve back off 1/4 turn. On the ex., run it down and back off 1/2 turn.
Really enjoy you videos.
I'm a Mack-Volvo Technician and always check where valve Clearances are at before adjustment, and have caught a few bad valve recessions before the valve has chipped and cracked the liner, I know Cat doesn't have a problem with there valves so not necessary here, but It's habbit for me now, does take longer though.
Keep up the good work.
Cat can definitely eat a valve, just like every engine. I do compare all the adjustments at the end and look for discrepancies between them. I only check them if someone wants them checked first though, takes much longer for me with those floating rocker buttons, can be very difficult to get a feeler gauge in there.
Mack-Volvo tech also. The finger tight adjust works on them too. Haha. 👍🏼 quickest and easiest way. Get pretty good at adjusting valves on them to when you’re replacing injectors all the time.
@@AdeptApe
Fair enough, I know what you mean with the floating rocker tips, its a pain to jam a .2mm thickness gauge in there,
@@josephgonzalez8835
Injector sleeves also.
I always check clearance before I back off the locknuts.
Nice video.
I like how you use torque wrenches rather than "the feel" method for the lock nut. I torque everything hexegonical; ball joints, wheel lugs, door hanger bolts.
I like the tip to "squeeze all the oil out". I never thought to tighten on top of a feeler gauge. Cummins Dealee near me wants $800.00 to do a Valve-Overhead on my 2000 Cummin N14 SelectPlus.
You da bomb!!! Thanks for continued learning tools and info. Appreciate your added insights as well as destructions of the week and sense of humor too...keep us posted. Thanks a lot 👍
Thank you. As long as people watch them I'll make them.
Less work, and faster results. Smart😎 Thank you for the video!
I was taught that a similar "feel" would be comparable to putting a feeler gauge in a mic with a clutch and sliding it back and forth once tightened with the clutch (the light drag "feel"). Go No Go is a good check when in tough areas....thanks. Love the destruction!
Your a very good mechanic and have a great atitude .
I like how you painted the top side of your injector height tool. Definitely a great idea!
Hopefully it'll prevent it from staying inside an engine. I've found 2 of them, but haven't lost one yet.
Always delivering. Thanks, Adept ! I like when I learn something new while being entertained. 😊👍
Hey, you haven't commented in awhile. Glad to have you back.
I found that if you take a tarp strap and run it over the head of the pen so you have tension on the strap, as you turn over the motor the strap will pull the pen in to the timing hole
That u joint looked like something our mechanic would do 😂😂
Darn good procedure, Josh! I like it.
Thank you Chad.
On my engine brake adjustment, best way I remember is. If I adjust the front side (number one). I adjust all the front's. And same on the rear, I adjust the rear (number six), I adjust all the rear side. On EUI's , if I am on number 1, I use my .356 plus my 1 or my .357 pistol. If the rocker arms have been removed. I turn the engine two rounds to seat the valve train in place. And to make sure I didn't screw up and have a bridge get out of place. I also check valves for over lap, just in case flywheel is on wrong.
One before this one I did had 2 pin holes in the flywheel, I always check for valves opening and closing though and was very confused 🤔. Then figured out that it wasn't truly pinned. Rotated it around some more and then found the correct pin hole.
I never thought about the Jake adjustment like that before, but you are right.
@@AdeptApe Ran across a few double hole flywheel's, and yes once you figure out you just screwed up, you get to start all over again.
Thata how I set mine as well. Works well. I have in the past checked an over head on engines that require removal of parts to set tho.
Yeppers that's the Best an Easiest way to go about it , it's quite easy really , I was doing it this way back in the 80's when I was Fleet Tech . I have to say I am envious of the Internet &RUclips man what I would have given to have this Kinda info at my fingertips back then .
great cat video. Keep the videos coming.
This is the same valve order as a DD. Pretty cool
Great informative video. A really appreciate you sharing you personal experience with us.
Thank you sir.
Thank you
One good reason for checking is to see if you have valve ressession or cam shaft issues. Good job though
With the 13.5L powertechs, you have to spin the engine over to set every injector preload and adjust valve lash.
Fuck that
I would love to see your home made engine turning tool. I've had many 3406s since my first 3406A in 1976 but I learn something new every time I watch you. Keep up the good work Josh.
No shit i learn new things everytime I watch you videos cheers
Thanks. Very informative!
That is how I do it I never check. I just set them all and go about my day.
Pliz,show a video of the ajaustment procedure and gaps of fhe horn brake valve (c13 lle)
so many ways to skin a cat! the big lebowski, your stepping into a world of pain my friend! great video and the biggest thing is don't over complicate it.
I own the tool , on heavy equipment you need the pin out or it nearly impossible
I Hit the like finger at the middle finger. I laughed hard. Reminds me of my brother
Oddly enough there's a hybird two stroke 4180 series Stihl motor that uses intake and exhaust valves to reduce emissions. It's the same principle to adjust lash to .010. No injector or Jake in this instance but the locking tool and and methods are nearly identical. The Germans concept on "light drag" takes three pages to explain also 😑.
That's the problem with "light drag" and 3 pages of German could be about 3 words, I've seen how long some of the words they use are.
Loose u joint of the week.
That may have needed a "strap kit".
Because they can stretch.
So you replace the straps.
The copper thing was a stop gap idea i bet.
I just bought a turning tool the other day as the few times I have needed to turn my 3406E or C15 over I had to use the balancer bolt heads but the fan is in the way so bad and risking cracking the fan blades doing the wrong thing and oh so much fun pinning the engine with no third hand so I devised a way of using a bungee strap to put a little pressure on a bolt used as my pinning device but I see now I need a rounded end as the pinning hole would pass by my bolt way too easy, I was not having fun with that aspect. I've only ran the overhead on the C15 once ( accert so IVA's ) and the instructions I found never made mention about turning the valve or jake adjuster in to push or bleed oil out, well I did that wrong then !. It had an uneven jake sound before I did the overhead and that took care of it so I obviously improved the balance between cylinders. I have a question related to the short torque wrench adapters, is it possible to find decent ones for far less then Snap On price or is that impossible to find as those are specialty tools that not just anyone would carry or make for that matter. I was using the box end wrench to snug it up while holding the adjuster and then was resigned to using a socket for the final torque and rechecking the drag. Also what is the recommended hours or miles between adjustments as my trucks do a lot of idling on the farm but put on few miles and "assume" idling hours don't put the same wear per hour as pulling a load down the road would.
A lot of info on a comment, but Jakes and compression brakes can be set different depending on the model of Engine, brake and whatnot. Best to check for your specific application.
For the torque adapters, check out the video description. There is a really nice Proto set that sells for $130 for a complete set, just click on the link. Cheaper than the Snap on set I have and a more complete set.
@@AdeptApe Thank you for the info on the wrenches, too bad I had already bought a turning tool as I could have bought the three piece set for less and even ordering across the boarder !
That's a clean engine
perfect
I made a pinning tool with a 3/8 bolt, compression spring and hydraulic fitting
That would be cool to see, did you weld the spring to the bolt?
@@AdeptApe no, cut the head off the bolt, added two dobs of weld either side of the bolt, tidied it up with the belt sander and slid the spring over the top
When I do this exact same procedure, why does the gap increase after tightening? Before tightening it's a light drag, after it's loose.
great tutorial.
I recently happened across a video of a fellow adjusting the jakes on an MXS with the typical .027" feeler gauge, but he had the .030" feeler still between the rocker and the valve bridge. Is that a no-no or is there some merit to that?
How valve lash 3406E C15 injector and injection. Pump.. Thanks and god bless
best way to fix the leaking peanut cover
Is it better to adjust the valves when the engine is cold or closer to operating temperature?
Another great video .thanks
Could you do a short video on the injector height tool on a injector out of the engine? I think I understand but want to make sure what step your talking about and body. Thanks
has to be the winner of the most corroded worn out valve 🤣😁 that so funny
Hot to adjust the jake to be louder with a « clapping » noize??
Thanks for the video
Found it vary informative
Thank you.
Good job sir
Nice Josh
Thank you.
If you have the tool, it has a top step and a bottom step, If you set the injectors where the bottom step is sticking out slightly will advance the fuel timing 2 degrees.
Help with an opinion please. I have a cat 3406 which is been running at 150 all this winter, what damage can that cause? Is it safe? Thanks
Light drag can be subjective. Example: My mech will use a 0.030 blade to set and 0.031 check. If 0.030 goes and 0.031 does not go, he knows it is exact.
Is this not correct?
Thanks so much
excellent.......thanks
you had me at "intake exhaust intake exhaust".
Hi Larry, weather is starting to get nice up here.
@@AdeptApe was 84 here yesterday but 69 today
What brand of paint marker do you find works the best for writing on those somewhat oily surfaces? I find different brands can differ greatly in quality and how long they last etc. Excellent video, good tips.
I believe the best I've used are called Brite Mark, and they last about 6 months with daily use.
Is this a short method or just a standard ?
Can you show the homemade engine turning tool it, I use a 15/16 socket thats but cut super short and its a pain to use on some trucks.
Are these the same Instructions for a C15⁉️
greetings---what is design rational behind cylindrical slugs occupying circumferential windows in cam drive gear?
If I remember correctly, which I may be wrong on part of this but I believe the slugs can move around and they take up the vibration from the camshaft.
They do it to reduce torsional vibrations in the camshaft.
Does anyone recommend getting valves adjusted while the injectors are being replaced?
You should have the valves set anytime they are unbolted or at certain service intervals. On an EUI engine like this you would want to have them set since they would be removed to replace the injectors.
My diesel has a shim & bucket style - Toyota 1N engine. Whyyyyy make it so hard to adjust? What would you recommend?
A new engine
I have a question not video related. I have a volvo common rain diesel, and I suspect one or two bad injectors. My question is, does a faulty injector make the fuel line vibrate less? Because when i put my fingers on the lines, 3 of them vibrate basicly the same, one vibrates less and the last one barely vibrates. Can i asume that the injectors with the least vibrations are faulty? Or is that method bs?
Why did you not do 2 and 4?
Hey josh I have a 3406e and the cam is starting to go bad .I found #5 injector lobe just starting to spall should i buy a CAT cam or do you think aftermarket is ok?
Please answer me if you see my comment . I have cat c7 and my engine blow gallon off oil every 30 miles out off the breathing hose . It’s wired no power lose the engine run fine . That’s too much oil what you think the reason might be ? Please answer if you can
Could be a damaged cylinder, turbocharger or a couple other things. That is definitely too much oil.
@@AdeptApe thank you for responding .
it’s very expensive to fix this engine , can I install oil can with oil return line ? If yes which one do you suggest
Deer sir I remove engine 3408c contacting rod bearing position which side fixed contacting rod bearing arrow position twin contacting rod ihop you information me
I'm always curious how you manage to not move the adjuster when torquing down the lock nut. That's probably the main thing that worries me outside of pinning the engine.
You have to hold the adjuster t handle or whatever you are using firm when torquing it. If it moves you'll know because when you check the feeler gauge before removing it, it will be too tight or loose.
@@AdeptApe I see. I'll take note of this, thanks.
Adapt ape will this be the same for 1mm 3406E
jake lash is dependent on horsepower, 30 is for a 550 hp, craftsman makes a long handle stub bit flat screwdriver that works awesome for overheads, did you do the rocker bolt update?
This one has new rocker bolts from a year ago. I'm not familiar with an updated rocker bolt design for the E models only the C15?
@@AdeptApe pretty sure it should have three six point bolt heads and one 12 point bolt with the update, i really hate them after the update as you have to swap sockets to avoid bending the rocker shaft, it would be it the tsb information in the cat news letter from years ago about 2007ish, while your looking for it look for the flywheel washer thickness for clutch face clearance, almost no one read that one, 5mm washer down to 3mm washers
@@AdeptApe What he is referring to if you have a 3406 E and you wish to install a Jacobs brake new (340 series), it will come with nine 257-2122 six point bolts and three twelve point bolts. So it don't hurt to update the older 340's to the later 6NZ's /MBN/BXS set up. I do it at the time of rebuild or if I have a rocker arm bolt failure.
@@johngoldsmith6629 I have those bolts but where do they go? The 3 are 12 point the 9 are hex but they didn't say where they go I cant find any pics I have a 98 1LW
@@bigred1247 If you look inside the Jacob's housing the third hole from the front is your oil supply. These bolts will not work on a PACbrake.
Now the spec for the 12 point head was 80 FT LBS. If you still use ALL 12 point.
This is what the repair manual states for your engine, using one 12 point and three 6 point per housing.
Tightening Sequence for Current Mounting Bolts
A change to the tightening procedure for 340 Series compression brakes has produced two different sets of mounting bolts. The set of noncurrent mounting bolts can be identified by the exclusive use of 12 point bolts for mounting the compression brake to the cylinder head. Refer to Illustration 1. The set of current mounting bolts can be identified by containing 3 hex head bolts and one twelve point bolt. Refer to Illustration 3.
The torque sequence and the bolt locations for installation of the Jake Brake compression brake.
Install hex head bolts (1), (3), and (4) into the positions that are shown in Illustration 3. Install the 12 point bolt (2) across from the mounting stud for the compression brake. Install the mounting stud nut (5) onto the mounting stud. Finger tighten the mounting bolts and the mounting stud nut.
Note: Ensure that the placement of the bolts agree with the bolt locations that are shown in Illustration 3. Incorrect placement of the bolts will result in a loss of brake performance.
Refer to the torque sequence that is shown in Illustration 3. Tighten bolts (1), (2), (3), and (4) to the following preload torque.
Preload torque for bolts ... 50 ± 7 N·m (37 ± 5 lb ft)
Tighten mounting stud nut (5) to the following preload torque.
Preload torque for mounting stud nut ... 50 ± 7 N·m (37 ± 5 lb ft)
Use the torque sequence that is shown in Illustration 3. Tighten bolts (1), (2), (3), and (4) to the following torque-turn angle.
(My comments Front to rear bolts are listed as 3, 1, 2, 4, nut is number 5. So 2 is 12 point hole 3rd back )
Tighten the bolts for this additional torque-turn angle. ... 90 ± 5°
Tighten mounting stud nut (5) to the following torque-turn angle.
Tighten the mounting stud nut for this additional torque-turn angle. ... 90 ± 5°
Note: Some of the early 340, 340A, and 340B compression brakes utilized two mounting studs that are located in the front of the brake housing. If your application has two mounting studs, tighten the second mounting stud nut as the last nut in the torque sequence. Refer to Steps 3 and 5.
Typical view of a Jake Brake compression brake
(6) Final torque for solenoid valve ... 13 N·m (9 lb ft) (7) Final torque for slave piston adjustment screw locknuts ... 34 N·m (25 lb ft)
(8) Final torque for installation of the mounting stud into the cylinder head ... 65 ± 10 N·m (48 ± 7 lb ft)
I have a problem i hope someone can help me with , my truck has cat c7 and leaks oil when I’m driving it , if turn the truck on and stay on park no leaks at all but soon as I start moving oil start leaking from the breathing hose
Blowed up...
@@jimjim753 but the engine runs fine and very smooth
C'mon now, bendix rebuild kit, and that TPV will be good as new. Lol
Question, the bridges are slotted on one side. Do you have a preference on how you install them?
slotted side is suppose to be closest to exhaust side or away from the pushing force
I'm pissed at RT!😂 Don't like him already! 😂He reminds me of me 200 years ago cuz that's exactly what I'd have told you.😂😂 sorry I couldn't keep a straight face.
good idea to color code the rockers helps me keep it straight in my head
got several good ideas from this video. - thanks
I only did the color coding for the video, hopefully it'll help people. Would have been more fun on a C-12 where the valves are in different positions over every cylinder.
@@AdeptApe 😱 . and I thought Ford was bad
just saw RT again and laughed my ass off again. that was good
Iv had this thing in my head for years where I say 123 skip 2, 12 skip 2, 1 lol whatever works
I just hate that I need 7 different tools to run the overhead on a cat. More if is an acert
Where'd you get your damper-turning tool? There are times where it takes a lot of time to get to the flywheel access plate or there's no clearance to get a ratchet and socket on a damper bolt.
So I have 2 different ones. OTC makes one for serpentine belt drive front drives, the other one is a custom piece that we had at my old shop and I made my own with the same design.
@@AdeptApe awesome. Thanks.
C13 lee
Would only back off new rocker arms otherwise how can you pick up valve recession if you back them off before you check with a feeler gauge
I check them all to check for valve issues then adjust them all. This way you can catch a valve issues and remove the head before a failure. Not necessary but an extra step I like to do.
That is a very good point, I will generally pin it first and work my way down through each valve that should be adjusted in that rotation by simply working the rocker up and down by hand while looking 4 very tight or loose valves. It's a very quick way to catch a bad cam follower on a C12 or C13 which are nearly impossible to visually inspect.
Does anyone know what 6NZ jake valve lash should be set at? Ive seen .033 and .037?
Please list your Jake model and engine horsepower.
@@AdeptApe 475 340C
@@AdeptApe 6NZ38242 is the serial number. What are the signs of tight jakes?
Very funny 😱😱😱
What's with the different colors on the plastic on the injectors? Age?
yea some are more than likely newer
Age and style.
The solenoid styles changed a couple times over the years. Metal guard, no metal guard, etc.
Sometimes ReMans will even come with the old style, if the solenoid met re-use specs.
The solenoids on this style of injector are very robust. I've seen more failures due to harness over-torque or handling abuse than from actual failure.
That's good to know then
I just put a bungee over the bolt and spin till falls in
I think he was saying "give him 1 minute and then hed help" lol
I like your interpretation of the events there.
No no, I believe I fully understood him as he shut the door in your face, he said .... BEEEEEEP YOU ! LOL.
Hey just saying your job as a mechanic doing a top set isn’t to do it fast... it’s to prevent premature wear and keep the engine running better and longer. You want to check all the clearances where they sit. That way if somethings way out of adjustment you’ll know and can investigate. If you just loosen them all off before even looking you’ll miss any problems and just put the valve cover back on sending the poor trucker on his way
Who changed #3
I did, the injector wasn't firing when cold.