I'm a short guy. 5"8 I don't need the risers or the riser bars I like the look and feel of the bars on it. I did notice the bike was very unstable just riding on the road with the stock 19 rims and tires. What I did was direct mount bars pegs and 21 inch front and 18 rear with Shinko 241 3" in the front and 3.5 in the back. Now I mostly ride on the road but I do occasionally ride the trails. feels perfectly fine to me.
Great video. After building 3 Sting R's I'd recommend after these mods that you buy the EXT Arma shock. It makes a HUGE difference on trails. For street riding you won't notice it as much, but on trails it's night and day compared to stock. Also, there is a spacer included with the Warp9 stem mount that will give you an additional 10mm that they didn't use for some reason. With the +3" bars and stem I can reach the bars while standing pretty comfortably. PS the Bubly thing cracked me up 🙂
Is it safe to drop the talaria factory fork lower than the “top line” printed on the legs? Mine is already right at that line with the stock flat crown.
Sadly, we've found out that there are multiple versions of the Talaria Factory fork and some fit and some do not. We are in the process of finding the different varients out in the market so that we can update with photos and descriptions. It fits some bikes but not all of them. Please check back and we'll be updating the description. Thanks for asking.
@@ChargedCycleWorks I have stock talaria forks with the red rebound and blue compression knobs on top. I would love to try and see if they work for that series of fork, I have emailed you with a possible solution to the different sizes. Please let me know if I could be a tester or help you out. I am dying to get a drop crown on my bike
That Drop crown is gold!!! Now can you please please consider enabling shipping to Australia. Been asking for years!! You have so many unique products that can't be sourced anywhere so the team down here would greatly appreciate some Australian shipping options like warp9, ebikezilla.
@@ChargedCycleWorks Much appreciated!! We certainly need more options down here and opening up shipping channels would surely be beneficial for all! Keep up the great work, your videos, your knowledge, your passion - it's contagious!!
@@ChargedCycleWorks your video on the ERide pro SS upgrades got me interested in saving for a emoto. They look like so much fun. Hoping I can have enough saved by Christmas.
About half an inch, smaller wheel but much larger tire to make up for the difference, however the talaria has a low front end so doing this benefits the performance of the bike
Talaria actually used multiple offsets for their fork line up, so some talarias came with a fork labeled “Fastace” the drop crown works with that, and the tuned fast ace fork offered. There is a difference between talaria factory forks, solely in their offsets in the crowns. Due to this difference the drop crown product description was modified until the other drop clamps that do work with both 1.0 & 2.0 factory forks.
Done most of that, and in an effort to find the damn CLUNK when hitting square bumps, the linkage, bolts, oring mod etc. Can the clunk be solved???? Amped tried to help but couldnt.
The infamous talaria clunk… the battery, linkage, and gear box can all be to blame for this, if you’ve tried the linkage then I’d look into your gear box, but truthfully there’s not a lot you can do without a rebuild if that is the issue
I've built 3 of them and they all had the "clunk". For me it was mostly the linkage bolts. Full-shoulder bolts torqued properly solved it for me. At the time only the Titanium variety were available but now you can get the much less expensive steel versions. Honestly I'd go steel anyway since Titanium against aluminum galls (sticks) like crazy and you have to slather it with copper anti-sieze in order to get proper torque, and even that sometimes doesn't work. I ditched my Titanium axles for that reason and went back to steel - so much easier to deal with in the field. I'm sure you know about the inflatable wedge in the battery box too. Make sure your triple tree is nice and tight as well.
@@ChargedCycleWorks Hey I only have 1 c clip, and I think there is supposed to be 2, I only have one on the outside of the sprocket, not the inside. I think maybe the mx4 doesnt come with both but the mx3 does. Is this a problem for me? I havnt had it since i got the bike i believe
what size exactly is that dunlop mx34? looking to go for same setup - 16" rear wheel OEM front wheel. And can I keep stock sprocket + chain by going 16"?
90/100-18 MX33 is the best 18” for these bikes. Light weight and fits inside the swingarm. They just came back into stock had been sold out for a long time at Charged
Because then you must upgrade the rear to a very heavy 100/90-19 rear tire to match the front. However if you really wanted to do this there is a new tire combo that you could try. Grab a smaller Dunlop mX33 70/100-21 up front and then try the new Tusk Ground Wire in the rear. That might be pretty sick. Charged has them in stock.
Man, if these guys only rode as much as they talk, they'd be much more convincing. Listen to your bikes folks, make the proper adjustments as needed. These guys are just youtubers.
on the website it says "does not fit Talaria factory fork" but in this video at 4:50 you say it does? would love to have this on my bike but i'm confused if it will fit or not ?
I'm a short guy. 5"8 I don't need the risers or the riser bars I like the look and feel of the bars on it. I did notice the bike was very unstable just riding on the road with the stock 19 rims and tires. What I did was direct mount bars pegs and 21 inch front and 18 rear with Shinko 241 3" in the front and 3.5 in the back. Now I mostly ride on the road but I do occasionally ride the trails. feels perfectly fine to me.
Nice one! I went 18/21 with my Sting and am trying out some rebuilt KTM85 forks with drop crown, but budget-wise $1000 is a distant memory!
Great video. After building 3 Sting R's I'd recommend after these mods that you buy the EXT Arma shock. It makes a HUGE difference on trails. For street riding you won't notice it as much, but on trails it's night and day compared to stock. Also, there is a spacer included with the Warp9 stem mount that will give you an additional 10mm that they didn't use for some reason. With the +3" bars and stem I can reach the bars while standing pretty comfortably. PS the Bubly thing cracked me up 🙂
We did use that spacer in this video, and we also completely agree about the shock! Thanks for the comment!
@@ChargedCycleWorks My fault; it's been a while since I did mine. I see it now @5:00.
This will completely change the bike 🫡
Is it safe to drop the talaria factory fork lower than the “top line” printed on the legs? Mine is already right at that line with the stock flat crown.
Looks great
Hi, quick question. You say in the video that drop crown will fit the Talaria Factory fork but your store page says no?
Sadly, we've found out that there are multiple versions of the Talaria Factory fork and some fit and some do not. We are in the process of finding the different varients out in the market so that we can update with photos and descriptions. It fits some bikes but not all of them. Please check back and we'll be updating the description. Thanks for asking.
@@ChargedCycleWorks I have stock talaria forks with the red rebound and blue compression knobs on top. I would love to try and see if they work for that series of fork, I have emailed you with a possible solution to the different sizes. Please let me know if I could be a tester or help you out. I am dying to get a drop crown on my bike
That Drop crown is gold!!! Now can you please please consider enabling shipping to Australia. Been asking for years!! You have so many unique products that can't be sourced anywhere so the team down here would greatly appreciate some Australian shipping options like warp9, ebikezilla.
We are definitely working on making global shipping happen!
@@ChargedCycleWorks Much appreciated!! We certainly need more options down here and opening up shipping channels would surely be beneficial for all! Keep up the great work, your videos, your knowledge, your passion - it's contagious!!
Seems like they’re no longer recommending the drop crown for the talaria for some reason!
“BUBLY”
Commercial was so 🔥 I went straight to the store and bought a pack unfortunately I am far too broke to buy the bike, sorry.
We are just glad to inspire you in some form or another 😂🤘🏻
@@ChargedCycleWorks your video on the ERide pro SS upgrades got me interested in saving for a emoto. They look like so much fun. Hoping I can have enough saved by Christmas.
Any issues with stressing the forks with the drop clamp
Thanks for the tips I needed that.......bubly
How much does a 16" rear reduce the bike height and rider position?
About half an inch, smaller wheel but much larger tire to make up for the difference, however the talaria has a low front end so doing this benefits the performance of the bike
Great video! What front tire do you recommend pairing the rear mx34 with? Mx34 in the front?
Lots of great options depending on the riding you’re doing, but the mx34 and mx 53 are great tires
MX34 all day long :)
17/21 ist the best set up for single track. I tried them all.
The tire selection for 17” is terrible. 16 or 18 is where it’s at. These are the sizes the entire gas industry uses and why they are so popular
For mx5 🙏
Ok on the drop crown you said its for fast ace AND talaria factory forks but when I go to the site to order it says NOT FOR FACTORY forks ????
Talaria actually used multiple offsets for their fork line up, so some talarias came with a fork labeled “Fastace” the drop crown works with that, and the tuned fast ace fork offered. There is a difference between talaria factory forks, solely in their offsets in the crowns. Due to this difference the drop crown product description was modified until the other drop clamps that do work with both 1.0 & 2.0 factory forks.
@@surronsd Thank you for the explanation
Done most of that, and in an effort to find the damn CLUNK when hitting square bumps, the linkage, bolts, oring mod etc. Can the clunk be solved????
Amped tried to help but couldnt.
The infamous talaria clunk… the battery, linkage, and gear box can all be to blame for this, if you’ve tried the linkage then I’d look into your gear box, but truthfully there’s not a lot you can do without a rebuild if that is the issue
@@ChargedCycleWorks thanks!!!
I kept pushing a gearbox, but amped keeps dodging. What does the rebuild entail?
@@mtnmnkymilitiausually just a completely replacement is gonna be cheaper than the labor and parts to do an actual “rebuild”
@@ChargedCycleWorks thanks bro. Theyre playing dumb😆. I know its coming from the box.
I've built 3 of them and they all had the "clunk". For me it was mostly the linkage bolts. Full-shoulder bolts torqued properly solved it for me. At the time only the Titanium variety were available but now you can get the much less expensive steel versions. Honestly I'd go steel anyway since Titanium against aluminum galls (sticks) like crazy and you have to slather it with copper anti-sieze in order to get proper torque, and even that sometimes doesn't work. I ditched my Titanium axles for that reason and went back to steel - so much easier to deal with in the field. I'm sure you know about the inflatable wedge in the battery box too. Make sure your triple tree is nice and tight as well.
do you guys have any tips to make the front sprocket stop rattling
Are you missing the C clip that holds the front sprocket in place?
@@ChargedCycleWorks no, i put a o ring around it too but i still makes a rattling noise
Good ole gear box… we will have to look into a solution on this, seems to be a complaint many people have with the bike
@@ChargedCycleWorks Hey I only have 1 c clip, and I think there is supposed to be 2, I only have one on the outside of the sprocket, not the inside. I think maybe the mx4 doesnt come with both but the mx3 does. Is this a problem for me? I havnt had it since i got the bike i believe
what size exactly is that dunlop mx34? looking to go for same setup - 16" rear wheel OEM front wheel. And can I keep stock sprocket + chain by going 16"?
That is a 90/100-16, and yes you can keep the same sprocket, if you end up wanting more torque that’s when you’ll need to size up
if I disable the brake motor cutoff with the lever programming, is it ok to leave the brake sensors connected to the bike?
Yes, it won’t harm anything
@@ChargedCycleWorks thank you
Great info! Do you offer a bundle with the 16" rear and new tires combo? Also the bards and stem, etc would be great.
We don’t have a specific bundle on the website, but if you wanna reach out to orders@chargedcycleworks.com via email, they can get you what you need!
Will a 100/100x18 mx34 fit?
chargedcycleworks.com/products/dunlop-mx33-90-100x18?_pos=3&_sid=862191ea9&_ss=r
The 90/100-18 is the best fit for an 18” rear
90/100-18 MX33 is the best 18” for these bikes. Light weight and fits inside the swingarm. They just came back into stock had been sold out for a long time at Charged
But why don´t you just go with a bigger front wheel instead of a smaller back wheel?
Purely to keep the small bike playful, but an 18/21 wheel combo with this drop crown is a great idea!
Because then you must upgrade the rear to a very heavy 100/90-19 rear tire to match the front. However if you really wanted to do this there is a new tire combo that you could try. Grab a smaller Dunlop mX33 70/100-21 up front and then try the new Tusk Ground Wire in the rear. That might be pretty sick. Charged has them in stock.
You forgot to add in the price of the new rear tire, so now you are over budget!😮😢😅
bubly
Man, if these guys only rode as much as they talk, they'd be much more convincing.
Listen to your bikes folks, make the proper adjustments as needed. These guys are just youtubers.
Have you watched our channel?
on the website it says "does not fit Talaria factory fork" but in this video at 4:50 you say it does? would love to have this on my bike but i'm confused if it will fit or not ?