Hemi valve seat issues 5.7l engine repair
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- Hemi valve seat issues 5.7l engine repair
Amazon Affiliate Links
amzn.to/3H91XEI (budget head gasket set w/ bolts 03-08 5.7L)
amzn.to/3OlgFuH (Felpro head gasket set 03-08 5.7L)
amzn.to/39fGuNG (Felpro head bolt kit 03-08 5.7L) You will need 2 if doing both.
amzn.to/3mwDNdK (engine bay hoist)
amzn.to/3xyiNcH (cylinder ball hone)
amzn.to/3MABfWy (piston ring compressor)
amzn.to/3mxkUHo (Roloc disc's)
amzn.to/3H7t8zB (mini buffer/sander)
amzn.to/3NZGhgk (brake clean)
amzn.to/3MA9hKg (red cotton shop towels)
amzn.to/3H6aUyq (blue paper shop towels)
amzn.to/3Qdg5k4 (budget torque wrench)
amzn.to/3mARqs4 (budget digital torque wrench)
amzn.to/3mvnduB (valve train organizer tray)
amzn.to/3Q83hvn (1oz tube anti seize
amzn.to/3xiSLc1 (4oz bottle anti seize)
amzn.to/3zpHIR6 (Champion factory replacement spark plug)
amzn.to/3xyHXYK (Mopar spark plugs)
amzn.to/3Mt7oPG (spark plug socket set)
amzn.to/3zqEYD3 (wobble extension set)
As an Amazon Associate I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases.
Great job fellas, I'm a fellow hemi rebuilder as well and watching your video I learned something new
Glad we could help
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 with you fellas info about the shards and metals in the intake manifold I was able to finished my rebuilt today, I post the video on my page. Thanks again
Awesome....
Guys thankyou !!!! You guys inspired me so much to rebuild my 06 dodge magnum!! I'm back on the road!! I wish I could post pictures.
Nice... That's awesome to hear..
Couple of weeks back I dropped a valve in my 5.7 Hemi. The truck is a 2008 it is in great shape I don't feel like buying a new truck at this point for 40 Grand so I ordered a crate motor out of Springfield Illinois completely updated to the newest generation with larger oil ports and a laundry list of upgrades. The motor cost around $3,500 my brother is a mechanic so we're just going to swap out the old for the new. Thank you for all the information you have given on this great video
Sure, good luck with the reman..
3500? I priced one today for 6k
Awesome video, boyz. 👍 Y’all gave me confidence to dig in my 2005 Jeep commander with only 100k mi on it. Seems to be exactly same problem on cylinder 5. I bought a wrecked jeep with good engine, was planning to swap it, but it has more then double miles on it. I will try to bring this big boy back to life, doing exactly what y’all did in this video. I’ve done subscribed to your channel, looking to see more awesome videos like this one. Thanks a bunch 👍😎
Glad to help, and yes much cheaper to fix it and you can sell the other engine for $2k.
I've reached the point in my repair where I've finished honing cylinder #1. I've read mountains of comments online (this video and others) asking about how much material honing removes, if the piston needs to be overbore size after etc. I took some measurements to share the result for me, but first... here's some background:
I can't post a photo here but the intake valve dropped in cylinder #1 for me. It dropped while my wife was picking up the kids from school *after she started the engine from being off*. Thankfully the family wasn't driving at the time so they were safe, and the damage was isolated to cylinder #1. I've learned that we're also lucky because we have 180km on the engine. Others online have had this problem far earlier.
Even in the above scenario (i.e. failed on startup), the piston was *totally destroyed* as well as the head. The heads in these engines have two lower "squeeze" spots near the fwd and rear edges of the head side of the combustion chamber. The piston gets super close to these spots when TDC and that's where the majority of the banging and damage occured. The piston literally hammers the shards of broken valve seat into the head in these spots and everything gets chewed up and smashed.
The piston top was broken right through and the rings bent downward from the impacts in those two spots, and in doing so, shards of metal were basically "trapped" on the sides of the piston... which caused scrapes on two sides of the cylinder walls. The scrapes were deep enough that I could easily feel them with my finger nail. They ran from the top of the cylinder downward for about 2 inches or so.
I methodically honed for about 1-2 hours (using both a block and flex hone, alternating to change up the cut), as well as changing the drill between fwd and reverse about every 3-4 honing cycles to change up the cutting action as I went. I'm happy with the result, even though I'm guessing I will probably be burning a bit of oil in cylinder #1 now which really sucks. The cylinder wall surface is nicely crosshatched and looks really good, but here is something to realize... the honing process removed very little material from the "good" areas of the cylinder walls, but it smoothed out the "bad" areas that were scratched... and in doing so, those previously scratched areas will never be perfectly fixed unless you get a proper bore with a machine shop. They will always be slightly deeper than the other surface area of the cylinder wall. A real bore would remove a perfectly even amount of material so the cylinder wall surface is perfectly symmetrical all the way around.
Here are my measurements after the honing was finished to illustrate what I've tried to explain above:
Stock Spec
3.917 in. / 99.50 mm
Undamaged wall areas
3.920 in. / 99.57 mm
(0.003 / 0.07 mm) difference from stock spec
Damaged wall areas (where the scrapes were located)
3.932 in. / 99.87 mm
(0.015 / 0.37 mm) difference from stock spec
My plan is to pop in a standard size piston with new rings, and I'll use the same rod since I'm confident that it isn't bent (I checked it thoroughly). I'm just having trouble sourcing the rod cap bolts... but I suspect I can find them with an online mopar dealer somewhere.
I hope this helps share some insight and helps to illustrate (at least in my case) a real difference between a honing repair vs. a machine shop bore.
When you hone at home all you should be doing is knocking thw burs off and a little clean up... If you honed that long i would say you went way too far and are gonna have issues.. Our total hone time with both is under 1 minute...
BACKWOODZ CUSTOMZ 15 I suspect I may have issues too, it’s a gamble. Total actual “hone on metal time” was probably between 5 to 8 minutes if I add it all up over the hour or so I spent doing the job... between cleaning off the hones, swapping them, recharging my drill batteries etc.
If I were to pull the block entirely... I assume that I would have to pull the crank off for the machine shop to do a full pass through the bore... correct?
@@vrsoft yes would need a machine shop and bigger pistons. All i do is get the burrs off and use the ball hone for cross hatching... We just get rid of the burs so the rings dont catch...
Just bought an 06 megacab with a misfire on #1. I was really hoping it was just an ignition coil or cracked valve spring, but it turns out I've got a dropped seat. I may just pull the motor and rebuild the whole thing.
Hone time should be really short with a standard 3 bar hone. Done correctly, this will also create the correct cross-hatch. It's about technique, speed of up/down motion. No need for ball hone. You're just knocking off high spots and any surface irregularities. A few light scratches are tolerable. Vertical scratches will somewhat get fitted by the ring wearing into the bore. Ran a lot of engines like this for years. May burn a little oil on that cylinder.
Proper repair would be to bore that cylinder but that's expensive and causes other issues with being out of balance if you only do one piston. Usually only a problem in high revving engine.
For a job like this, I'd just get a new intake manifold instead of hoping I got every piece out of that oily mess.
Great video!
Excellent video guys! I have a 6.1L 426 stroker and hemi's are LOUD. I'm always thinking I have some failure because of all the ticking and I've owned it for 10 years.
Yea.. it's enough to drive you nuts.. nice ride..
23:40 I had a mechanic in California do a similar repair on my 300 and it had that ticking sound. Was relocating to east coast for new job; the mechanic told me to just drive the car, and ticking should go away by the time I reach Louisiana.
I usually just drive things and wait till it really breaks.... Much easier to find the problem..
Thanks. I enjoyed your video and learned a lot. I have a 2008 Super Bee 6.1 with 200K miles on it. I took it in after I couldn't resolve misfire codes in #6 and my shop compression tested it, scoped the cylinder, and diagnosed a burnt valve. He quoted $6500 for a used engine with 65K miles on it before adding in labor so I'm gonna do new all new valves myself. Do you think it's mandatory to take it to a machine shop to check for warpage, etc it if I'm able to clean the heads up well-enough on my own and there's no other damage? Was the head you used rebuilt or a used one, as is? I'm wondering if I should replace all of the springs, etc with new parts. It's damned decent of you to respond to everyone years after your video.
did you ever solve the problem?
I would recommend swapping the spring that had the valve that dropped, if your head had no damage & it wasn’t overheating you should be good to use the same ones, if you’re not on a budget build I’d replace all springs, pushrods & rocker arms for better parts. Stock parts suck from dodge
Get a used head if reselling.. reman heads if keeping..
“Ill try to talk quietly” starts yelling again immediately
I installed a 190°f thermostat, new engine coolant 70% ms 9769 Mopar coolant with 30% distilled water, worm screw style of hose clamps on the radiator and heater hoses. Plus I use Valvoline full synthetic 10w30 Max Life, the Mopar 090 filter, and Lucas oil stabilizer. Also I leave the MDS off.
that oil with stabilizer seems pretty thick for a hemi.
You guys know what you're doing. I was told by a local dealer,when you do a valve job on one side you need to do it on both sides if you are going to keep it. I owe a 2012 only owner 5.7 hemi ram 1500 I do alot of my own work on it. But I am not sure about this. I would really appreciate some feedback
That is pretty new to have this issue.. it was fixed in like 08-09 I believe..
First off you're the man for such an in depth video for such a common, but controversial problem on how to fix. I just shattered #6 to the point with a boroscope I can not only see a banged up cylinder but can even see the top of my piston rings. I plan on replacing the cylinder and honing, crossing fingers the cylinder walls are still in good shape. Just wondering if you guys were worried about a bent rod? I was kind of surprised you re-used it being an impact even small can cause it to bend. Thanks for the video
Done 4 of them now, never had a bent rod.. You can have the machine shop check when they put the piston on...
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 I figured, do you ever need to use slightly overbored cylinders (+.010 +.020) or you always just drop factory spec pistons
@@banggazm you would need to pull entire engine for a bore... Just factory spec for me...
How deep was the scratch i had same issue and wondering if i can hone mine out
I work for Chrysler as a tech and anytime you have a engine catastrophe failure you MUST and I repeat you MUST replace the intake manifold when doing engine work especially what I’ve just seen inside the manifold because of this reason.
We clean them and never had an issue..
I gonna agree...... You should replace..... I cleaned mine 4 times before I got all the metal out and I thought each time I got everything. It wasn't until the last clean ( I used brake cleaner ) and knocked out a chunk the size of a ink pen cap.... You can clean them but you better triple check and then check again.
Take them to the car wash and power wash them with hot soapy water on the inside. Go through the throttle body and then through each port on the head side. Helps wash out oil grime and helps carry out any foreign material. Putting a little gas in the intake and swishing it around before hand helps rinse out oil grime too. Dump it out in a bucket before taking to car wash.
Did you end up keeping this car or sell after the rebuild? I’m rebuild a 06 300c w/ the same exact issue you’re having & it’s only one piston. Should I change the valve lifters if I’m keeping the car or should I be good? Honestly all other internals look fine besides that one piston & the head ( cyl #4 ) let me know what you think! Your video has def been my go to for this job so I’d love some feedback ! Ty
I've done this to a bunch of hemis.. never had an issue..
I have an 09 challenger w a 5.7 and cylinders 3 and 7 were burnt and have 0 compression and several other valves werent sitting right like the one from this video is it fixable?
Hey I’m currently rebuilding my 345 Hemi gen III. Can you please show us how you disconnected the rod from the old piston.
That is best done at a machine shop. They are pressed together. So unless you buy/build a little oven, you can't do it..
If you take a torch and heat rod up at pin you can slide out by hand
hey great vid i recently did work on my 2020 durango installed t however it ether wont turn over or it runs rough can you give me some insight
Did those std piston ring come pre gapped? Also does it matter what direction the ring sits on the piston?
This video is a lot of help. I have the exact same problem. My question is did you replace the head bolts or use the same ones. I was told that they stretch and should be replaced after they are taken out. If its ok to use the same ones I will do just that. Thanks for your time!
The gaskets and bolts are new.
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 Where did you find a couple of new connecting rod bolts? They are TTY as well. I'm having trouble sourcing a couple (just for the one cylinder that I need to replace).
@@vrsoft I havent yet. I am still gathering all the parts as I get the money. I have to find those. How much was the head work at the machine shop?
Correction, the piston /rod/ring kit I bought was ordered as an assembled unit. I assume it will show up with new ones. Bough a genuin Mopar unit on Ebay.
Always replace torque to yield bolts.
I will tell you, I managed to take the oil pan off without having to jack the engine up by removing the Oil Filter and Oil pressure sensor housing, it is held on by 3 bolts. Remove that and shove the front in of the pan in that direction, give it some love and it comes out. This was done on a 2007 Jeep Commander 2WD 5.7L HEMI with MDS
This is awd...
You guys are the best I learned a lot on your video I’m going to watch more video of you fixing cars thank very much Dallas Texas
great, glad we could help.
Learn something new every day, hadn't heard about the valve seat problem with the Hemi. Any ideal why they break?
Its only early hemis. 03 like 08 i think. They actually dont break. They fall out of the head. Chrysler used the wrong metal composite...
As if Chrysler needed to tarnish their reputation further. It's a shame because, otherwise those hemis are nice.
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 It happens on the 4.7 and 3.7 alot too. same shit excep thoes are overhead cam motors so it fks the timing all up removing the head.
BACKWOODZ CUSTOMZ 15 the late models have the lifter issues too
@@wadetaylor3195 what years
I think this jus happened to my 2006 Crysler 300c 5.7L hemi with 75k miles . How much am I probably gonna spend to fix it?
If you gonna pay someone your probably better off buying another one.. I prefer high mileage cause it's either not gonna happen or it already was fixed.. If your gonna do it yourself easily under $500 depending on what route you take. The reason I say that about paying someone is, you most likely wont find someone to fix it like we do and a garage will want to put a used engine in which parts and labor will be atleast $5k probably.. And you will most likely be in the same boat cause they will try to find a low mileage engine and they all do it.
@BACKWOODZ CUSTOMS !!!!!SOS!!!! I need help! I'm currently rebuilding the 5.7 Hemi in my 06 Chrysler 300C and I have literally the exact same issue you guys had with the car in the video same cylinder same valve seat everything my damage to the head and piston are not as bad but it's still pretty chewed up. My question is can I reuse the head? How did you go about fixing the chew marks in the combustion chamber? I've watched your video a half a dozen times in the last week and when you show the head after you got it back from the machine shop I cannot see the damage? Did you get a used head? Was it the same head? I'm lost and I could really use your help thank you in advance. Great video by the way, it's been very helpful.
Take it to the machine shop and see if they can clean it up.. if not get a used head if you wanna have it happen again or a reman head and make sure they changed the valve seats to have no worries..
how much did that cost you? i’m having the exact same problem on my 06 300c
good video! I have limited tools and beginner level mechanics. Question is I have a the same car that blow a 50 cent size hole through the oil pan. why would that happen and what should I do love the car.
Pull the pan and see whats laying in it..
in the video did you say to let the steering column hang? don't mess with the tie rods?
Mine did the same thing yesterday on hwy at 80 mph.
kingeasy6184 dang dude I currently undid the whole engine and trying to pull it out I pulled the engine oil pan found shattered pieces in it but can’t take it off without taking the whole axle thing off. Idk I lost the keys to the car.
Nice video. You guys are true mechanics.
Thanks glad we could help.
using no ring compressor is a sign of a real butcher. dear god !
Or someone who can gwt the job done and not need fancy tools...
Id use one but if u can do it without who gives a shit?? They got it done ! Thing is ALIVE
How do you think people did it before cars got to where they are today? THEY USED THEIR HANDS AS TOOLS!!!
I totally agree about the piston ring compressor. Unless you lived in the roaring twentiesthere has always been piston ring compressors for a piston. And you are not supposed to use anti-seize on a spark plug inside of an aluminum head. Spark plugs should be torqued in and if you add anti-seize you will over tighten them and if you don't believe me call the spark plug manufacturer and they will tell you the same thing. And the only spark plugs that you should be gapping are the copper ones. Ive seen the piece on the plug break off and goes right into the engine on the other type plugs. And if you get the plug from a dealership they come pre gapped. Ive built newer Hemi's, coyote and 5.8 and 5.4 gt500 engines as well as various older and newer chevy engines. These guys know how to build engines but the little things will scew up your build. I myself would never let these guys even do an oil change on my vehicle.
Ive never needed a ring tool and all my cars and ATVs are running better then factory. You just arent a good enough mechanic, just say that instead.
Interesting idea for a hoist. Using Never-Seez on the spark plug is smart, it's anti-galling.
Worked great
OLÁ. Acredito que seja muito importante Ensinar somente depois de um ótimo aprendizado. Vocês inverteram . ABRAÇOS Roberto Udo Krapf
That's a good idea about just using a marker on the bolts and put the marks pointing to the front and then go 90°. The wrench is probably as good or slightly better.
always better to be safe then sorry.
I have a 2008 ram 1500 5.7. it had spun connecting rod bearings on 4 pistons. I replaced the bearings but it still makes the knocking noise
Usually if a bearing spins you can't just replace it..
Thanks guys I’ll be referencing this video a fair bit over the course of my rebuild I’m sure 👌🏻
Glad to help, good luck
Please write me back when u can. I really need to know if the knocking noise at the end of the video. How does it go away? Do i have to run the car or it goes away once the car its on for some minutes? My mechanic done the same thing to my car.its a 2006 dodge charger hemmi 5.7 piston and valve got mess up so he change the piston and tokk the head to the machine shop.anfter installing everything back.we turn on the engine and it had the same noise as your video.how does that noise go away? Because we just had the car on for like 2 minutes and then we turn it off.
Just drive it normal... It's from a lifter not pumped up...
Hello i have a question.my mechanic done the same thing.but at the end i have this knocking noise on the engine same as u had it? So it means that the noise will go away once you take the car for a run??? Please let me know.
Possibly, take it for a spin...
Nice video... my cylinder heads look the same as yours and the piston too . I was told the Piston was cylinder head ..... what would cause the Piston to hit
No the cable seat falls out... The piston doesn't hit the head.
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 Thank you for the reply keep up the great work with videos
Did the white smoke went away and what happens if u dont home the cilinder wall
If you don't home the walls you have a chance the wrong won't break in right... And the white smoke is just water vapor from sitting.
No, the white smoke is from the oil you used to lube the piston and rings. It just takes some time to burn off. Start it, let it run until it comes up to temp. Shut it off. Let it set at least 15 minutes. This allows the oil to burn off the rings and cylinder wall and/or run back into the pan. If you drive it like this, it will smoke like a banshee until you shut it off and let it sit for awhile. You so run the risk of ruining a converter and O2 sensors.
Hello my mecanic is doing the same thing as you guys...hopefully my dodge charger gets fixed soon.im just wating for the piston for cylinder 1 and have the head coming from the machine shop....my car has the same exact thing as this video....piston all cracked and one cylinder all smash too....hope u guys see my comment...wat do u guys suggest? Its a hemmi 5.7 rt on a chager
Well if your gonna keep the car you should remain or get reman heads for both sides with new valve seats, or the same thing will happen again.. be a nice time for a performance upgrade on heads... Throw a piston in and run it..
I’m replacing the #1 piston with an oem one, do the piston rings come pre-gapped? Also do all the intake pushrods go on top? They are the short ones right?
U should check ring gap... Also I'm not sure which is what length..
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 how do u checkk gap?
just subscribed bro and i have a 2013 durango rt took it to the dealer for a misfire in cylinder six obviously that was cylinder 3 and i have the tick problem what could you recommend for me cause im not trying to give 5000 dollars for the repair thanks in advance
What did the dealer say the issue is?
They said it needed a new camshaft to correct the problem
At that point you could probably have a shop put a performance cam in for that less..
Where did you get the new piston and rings?
You can find them all over,ebay, rock auto, etc
So have a question i have 2013 dodge durango rt I have a number 7 cylinder misfire so i replaced plugs, coils injectors and get the same code and it only does it on a cold start clear the code can drive all day and it won't come on unless the motor is cold any ideals much appreciate thanks....
I would do a leak down and compression test to see the health of that cylinder....
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 hey just an update i took my durango to the shop and they preformed a compression check which was 225 psi and they did a cylinder leak down which was less then 10%. they did some further searching and told me that these things needed to be replaced: right and left valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals, intake manifold seal, pcv seal, left and right head gasket, left and right lifters banks, oil pan gasket, pick up tube o-ring, timing chain cover gasket, heater tube o-ring, camshaft, camshaft phaser, timing chain, crankshaft sprocket, exhaust manifold to exhaust bolts and nuts, oil change, coolant, oil pump, oil control valve. so they said my lifter was bad and all these other parts were a mechanics recommendation to be replaced based on the vehicles mileage. the current vehicle mileage is approximately 125,000.
@BillWoods: you don't need 95% of that stuff. It's just commission based marketing. Go to an independent shop or two and get more quotes. Also, try running some Rotella oil in it for an oil change. It does wonders for cleaning engines up internally and quieting noisy/sticking lifters which is what it sounds like you have.
How much did this cost you buy doing it yourself? I have this same issue on my 06, and the shop is telling me 5 to 7k to fix it. I am pretty mechanically inclined, so I was thinking of tackling it myself.
Under $1000 easy...
Do you have the links where you got the heads and pistons at? I'm about to tear mine down this weekend.
Do you happen to know about the 300c cut off problem it will run fine and just shut off over and over
Sometimes it won’t do it
Not a clue ..
If it cuts off just after a fillup, it's a valve in the fuel tank. There's a recall on that 4 the earlier 300s
How are the 2017 5.7 hemis? Just got a daytona yesterday
Pretty good. This problem was fixed by then..
Im new to the hemi world came from mustangs bro, whats some good heads out there and would i require a tune after?
Honestly the stock heads are pretty good, depending on what your looking to do... Hemi fever for the tune though...
@@michoacanohh2227 Well, for one, dont get Edelbrock heads. They wont pass emissions. Stick with your stock head and just upgrade the valves & springs
Good work fellas. I have a 2006 Durango hemi that did drop a valve seat on #8. So I got motivated to do my own repair. So took apart the whole engine send it to a machine shop. Put all back together, flipn engine fired right up ran good for 15 min go in reverse to leave my drive way, and sob turned off. Wouldn't fire back up. Pulled all back apart and it dropped 6 valve seats ruined 6 pistons. Fuckn a dont know if I want to rebuild again.
Not sure what ya got going on there. Did you clean out the intake mani? Not sure what you mean by rebuild. What did the machine shop do? If they changed seats like they should have, it's on them.
Did you guys use new head bolts or the ones theythat came off of the vehicle?
New head bolts...
Ok thanks
A
Did you guys use new push rods?
What’s the part number for the piston?
Whats the tools besides the boring head seat, the tool with the beads & the other 1 im looking into rebuilding my engine
Rebuilding an engine and what we did are way different...
BACKWOODZ CUSTOMZ 15 i can send u a pic basically cylinder 8 did the same as this, dude told me its because i gutted my cats so the gasses got trapped & exploded that cylinder, it looks just like the 1 in this video, you dont have a instagram or snapchat account or i can email
Has nothing to do with a gutted cat. Chrysler used the wrong metal in the valve seats and they fall out..
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 where did you get the tool with the beads and the other one u used to hone it?
@@egrayy9500 summit racing... Just the 3 stone you can get at any auto parts store...
Great video. I’m repairing cylinder #1 in my 2007 5.7L Hemi from a failed intake valve seat. I’m almost to the point where I can hone the cylinder. How deep were your scratches?
Mine can be felt with my fingernail but not deep enough to catch and stop my nail as I brush over it.
I plan to toss a standard sized piston and rings back in it like you have done.
Were there any issues after your repair? Did compression take a hit or any issues with the rings seating etc?
Ive done serveral, the first 1 i did everyone said it wouldnt even run. It was very deep... I sent it... Put 5k miles of beatings on it.... Just send it itll be fine.... Theu say break rings in how your gonna drive it so i beat the jesus out of it...
BACKWOODZ CUSTOMZ 15 Thanks! I’m going to hone it out and not look back :)
Was there a reason you used the block hone first and then did the ball hone after? Wouldn’t the ball hone be enough on its own to cut enough material and do the job?
@@vrsoft block hone smooths it out. The ball hone is for good cross hatching you should do both...
I've reached the point where the oil pan is loose but I can't remove it yet. It's stuck between the steering rack (even after I unbolted the rack to get it as low as possible) and the crossmember near the transmission. I'll be picking up an engine support bar tomorrow to lift the engine 2-3 inches and I should be good. Did you have a trick to remove the oil pan or did you need to use an engine support to lift it a bit (like the factory service manual says). I couldn't figure out an alternative strategy.
For those curious... I picked up an engine support bar (under $100 here in my area of Canada) to raise the engine (after loosening the mounts) about 3 inches. Then the pan dropped without any trouble.
hi, ive got a 2004 dodge ram with the hemi 5.7, it was misfiring and had oil on the cylinder 7 spark plugs, i took the valve cover off and the rocker arm on my exhaust valve has about 3/16" slack in it, the valve spring doesnt look broken, what do you think it could be? Valve seat, lifter, camshaft are all things ive been told... the engine doesnt tick, knock or anything just has a misfire
I would start by comparing rockers and push rods... If nothing is evident, then gotta dig into a big problem... Also make sure rocker bolt is tight to start..
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 rocker bolt is tight, cylinder has good compression, i had someone crank it over while i watched and the pushrod is not moving, im thinking either a bad lifter or bad camshaft, any thoughts?
Not other than rip it apart..
What size hone tool did you use?
Link in description
How deep where the impressions on cylinder wall i have same issue but i feel there is to much damage to hone
Ive done some that were pretty bad.... I say send it....
Damn, and I was thinking of buying a 2006 magnum rt. Is this really a big problem with all of them or are these cases sort of not so common?
Pretty much all 08 down... If it's got over 150k miles your probably fine....
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 awesome, I think I'll roll the dice. They're asking $4700, has 133k and looks to be completely stock so hopefully it wasn't beat up on either. Wish me all the luck
@@FortyTwoAnswerToEverything how did it last?
Did you gays change the slender head or fixed it?
Changed.
How may miles did this engine in your video have?
i dont remember exactly which one this was. but they all had between 80-120k. that seems to be where they drop.
I took my intake manifold off and noticed I had 2 valve stems open on cylinder 7 car was throwing multiple misfire code I took the heads off valve seat was shut closed did a water leak test no leak and the piston wasn’t damaged just trying to figure out why 2 valve stems are open and all the others are closed. TiA
I'm not sure what you mean by your valve stems were open?
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 The exhaust valve that connects to the valve spring under the intake manifold my valve spring on cylinder 7 sits pretty low leaving the valves open on cylinder 7 I currently have 2 open all the others are closed
I mean that sounds normal.. 2 cylinders are firing at all times...
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 ok thanks just wanted to make sure nothing was wrong been chasing a multiple cylinder misfire now I’m going to assume I have a clogged injector
@@srt_dre3750 have you tired a tune up? Plugs and wires? Moving coils and injectors to see if the problem moves?
How much does this cost about cause I need this done, buuuuut money is tight atm.
You probably won't find a mechanic to do this... If your doing it yourself... Like $500...
How do you quite the lifters noise??
Just let it run, they need to pump up.. let it idle and give a few revs every now and then.
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 Thank you!!!
so there no need to take timing off when removing head as long as its tdc
Your not touching any timing stuff, you don't need to worry about tdc at all
thanks for the fast reply good video god bless
@@Nelval573 just glad to help....
Gill and jeb excellent repairs
Thanks for watching...
If there is metal in the oil pan, and in the intake manifold. Wouldn't there be metal in the oil pump, and throughout the block?
Nope, chunks won't go through the oil pump screen.
Would you say that a valve seat drop is common on these 5.7 HEMI’s after 100k miles?
I purchased my 300c 15 years ago brand new (in black and chrome.. yep, dropped 40k on it brand new, felt like the head-honcho in town). It now has 130k miles on it.
Ever since I bought it I’ve been religious on oil changes, spark plug changes, spark plug wire changes, replaced the fuel injectors, transmission fluid at 60k miles, coolant flushes, changed the radiator, changed the head gasket, oil pan gasket, changed alternator, water pump, new fans, fan belt, swapped out sensors... really did everything to make sure the car is 100% maintained... would it be possible to be driving down the highway and suddenly have a valve seat drop out of the blue on a well-maintained HEMI like mine?
The valve seat issue is 03-08 hemis..
Valve seats usually don't drop running down the highway unless the engine gets overheated like when pulling a heavy trailer in high temp conditions. It usually happens idling in traffic for extended periods with A.C. on, head gets hotter than normal. Or, it falls out when you shut it off. Head is hot, cooler air in intake cools off the seat and it falls out. Sometimes you get lucky and the seat lines back up with the hole and it goes back in. Most of the time it doesn't and gets smashed into a hundred pieces and it's all over. 90's Escorts were famous for this too.
@@QwertyQwerty-jq3cu I wish you were correct but your not.... Google hemi cable seat issue and see how many people say it happened while idling throw a parking lot or just driving normal... I never saw a 300 or a charger pulling a trailer and the engines are way over powered so not really sure they are ever under heavy load...
What happened in the first place that the owner took it apart? I seen videos where the cam gets starved of oil at low rpms.
These early hemis drop valve seats... I've never heard of oil starvation... Chrysler used bad metalergy in the cable seats and they literally just fall out...
@@backwoodzcustomz1549
ruclips.net/video/dI93-Zdx_nY/видео.html. Seems like this is just a bad design overall.
@@vettper not at all...every motor has its issues..
What size ball honer did you guys use and what grit
Not sure this was years ago.. just search what your stock piston bore is..
did u fiind out
There goes one of my dream car, Hemi Jeep. Guess I'll stick with chevy for now!!
Why? You can get a nice low milage hemi for under $1000... Fix the motor for $1000 and your into a $7-8k vehicle for under $3k???
Bro dont let that scare you. Ive owned two Hemis, got both at 75k miles. I got one of them to 165k mileage before a semi truck hit me, and my chrysler 300 now has 130k miles on it. If the seats are going to drop, they do it around 80k to 100k. I work on Hemis. Dont let this scare you! Go get you one! Oh, and they are SUPER easy to work on. I can literally write down, how to fix any problem and youd understand it! Maneeee, quit playing and go have you some fun with a Hemi! Haha, i have a chevy too. Avalanche LT. its got the LS motor in it. Runs great too, SO NO HATE THERE! Haha.
How did you get all the metal shaving out the block
There really isn't any shavings
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 but how would you get them out the block I have the same issue but little saving around where the heads and lifters sit
Taking in consideration that the hemis are famous for having bad lifters rollers and as a result damage the cam, did you took a look at that?
Ive had 5 of these now... No lifter issues in sight....
The roller lifter problem started with the 2009 Hemi.
William White not true
Would a crate-engine be a better solution?
If you wanna spend more than the car is worth...
Nice video! What wheel are you using to clean for the gaskets?
Rol loc disks... We get them at napa
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 Thanks!
around how many miles it brokes?
Usually they break around the 80-100k mark.. but I've heard as low as 30k...
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 Thx for such fast answer, and 2015 and newer are better? Thinking about buying 2016 or 2017 charger .
@@Czecher86 yes, this is a pretty much 08 and earlier problem... They redesigned the heads after that and the newer ones are all good
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 Thx a lot.
What causes the valve seats to go?
The valve seats they used were a bad metal mix..
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 No, the metal is fine.
I am an ASE Certified Master Machinist with over 50 years of experience. I have a cylinder head rebuilding shop. I have been repairing "dropped seats" in Chrysler heads for over 10 years. There was insufficient "press fit" of the seat when installed at the factory. I have seen them fall out even when the engine has NOT been overheated.
This can be fixed BEFORE the seat falls out by "peaning" the area around the seat to tighten up the fit. IF the seat has come loose but NOT fallen into the cylinder it can be replaced in the head using a special high temp glue and then peaning.
Between the 3.7, 4.7 and 5.7 I have probably done 100 sets of them. VERY seldom does the head actually need to be machined for an oversized seat.
search MPG Automotive on FB for pictures of this procedure.
any update?
Dude, you did not show that you checked the rings end gaps clearances, I'm sure you know to always to check these rings clearances, this way if you have to slow start, then will know that it is not caused by ring jamming and you can look at other problems that may be causing this..
Its a stock piston, in a stock bore, with stock rings.. Its fine... Never had an issue in all the motors we have done..
With stock parts and setup, they are designed to be in tolerance. Unless your running some blown or turbo charged setup or file to fit rings, you're okay. I've put a bunch of engines together with used and new rings and piston. Never had a problem either. Drove cars for years on 8 hour trips.
This guy reminds me of Joe Dirt... How did you wash the homing grit out of the engine? PB Blaster???? LOL
Parts cleaner.. The stuff you clean parts with...
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 Not knockin it.... We all did things like this the first time we worked on an engine...
Far from the 1st time...
Never stop the hone in the cylinder I see so many issues with your prosess quit sanding like that also I bet that engine won't last long.
I bet you are wrong... Oh wait you are.... That engine gets the crap beat out of it Everytime it's driven... Over 5k now.. works great... Along with the other 3 we have fixed the same way...
Camaro is right. You really should not use anything other then Emory cloth to clean the surface of head and block..... When you use a surface grinder - Dremel - dye grinder or such you can't control the amount of surface removed..... You can get away with it ( it does happen ).... Hell iv done it myself and gotten away with it...... But you run the risk of uneven surfacing or creating a low spot. Engine tolerances come down to 1 1 thousands of inches - making the difference between proper and failure..... No disrespect meant - I can see you have a good hold on the concept. You just have some poor quality techniques..... More or less antiquated or outdated techniques - Things you probably could get away with alot better 30 years ago when everything was true steel or cast iron. Modern metals used to cast modern engines are a lot softer fatigue a lot easier.... We all have things that we would do different from one another. All that matter is we back up are work when it goes bad..... Me personally - I would probably not have honed the cylinder - I would cleaned it with brake cleaner - ran Emory cloth around it ( scuffing ) and dropped rings and pistons back in...... The rings will seat eventually as long as the bore is to spec and there is no major pitting scarring. Over all good video.
@@TreadMotorsports so u wouldt use the 2nd ball tool like he did?
@@egrayy9500 It would be best to - absolutely. Done properly it ensures ring seal. However I have personally gotten away with just scuffing the cylinder walls up with scotch brite or a fine Emery cloth..... I like the brick hone over the ball hone.... If I was in these guy's situation - all many corners that wear cut - I would not stress over it!
@@TreadMotorsports links to the tools u use pls
Where can I get going tool & what size?
Great video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Which tool?
Honing flex balls & what size is needed thanks
I think i got it on summit racing. Im unsure of size just look up a stock piston..
How much to do my car it's got the same issue
We don't do work on cars anymore..
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 okay just wondering yeah I'm going to do the same thing to my car I'm hoping the Piston ain't all f***** up cuz the oil pan looks like a b**** to get off everything else looks pretty straightforward I Love you guys' video thank you for replying back
Subbed. Great video. I have 07 charger i think just had same problem
Sorry to hear.. I just bought an awd hemi 300c.. stay tuned for videos
Did you have to lift motor to get oil pan off? Going to teart down this weekend
Yes, you have to lift motor, the higher the easier
Can ticking lifters cause this?
No..
Good grief. I have a Charger Hemi (2011) with 50000 miles. Oil has been changed every 3500 miles. Looking at this engine saddens me. Has this engine been neglected? Should I be worried?
They fixed this issue by your year. And no they all have this issues like 09 and older...
you should worry about your lifters Siezing up and wiping your cam lobe or lobes off. Happend to my 2012 hemi. 3500 fix.
@@89Hatch1 what he said^ 2012 charger here getting cam and lifters replaced
Swapping MDS to regular lifters and installing MDS block offs will help eliminate this. Increasing idle rpm while in gear to 750-800 rpm helps too. Has to be done with a scanner.
Hey my car still ticks I let it run for a while I just finished it. What should I check first
Drive it a bit.. might just be a lifter that need to pump up...
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 I also need to add more antifreeze cud that be important also.
Just did this did ur tickin stop??
@@moparmoemoe4077did the tickin eva stop
Nice job guys.
Glad to help..
Super video you guys
Thanks glad you enjoyed
That's exactly how my piston looks #2
Yup.... It happens
I would have used the starter to rotate the engine to let the oil get to pressure before initial start, But good video.
You do that every morning before you leave for work?
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 No but a car engine that isn't primed that has setup and hasn't had oil circulating through it before start up just increases wear. How much depends on how fast lubrication reaches the part. Then again that's just me and my logic on it. I overly baby stuff.
Its the same engine... Its had oil circulated... Its no different than a cat sitting a day...
good job !
Thanks...
Where are you guys from?
Pa
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 what part im in DE
@@egrayy9500 I live in lancaster pa
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 can u guys teach me?
@@egrayy9500 it's all in our videos...
So much work to get to everything, just a bit more cash and everything could be upgraded.
Im not sure what your upgrading but its like $300 in parts....
Enjoyed the video, good job, love my hemi.
Me too....
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 are head gaskets common to fail with these as well, cause I have coolant disappearing with no apparent leak. My hemi has over 1680000 miles on her. I'm bring it Friday to have a pressure test done on the cooling system.
Thank you
No problem thanks for watching...
a bit of a hack job but you got the job done and its running
Not sure what hacked about it, solid fix...
You a goofy ol'boy lol helluva mechanic! Always worth the time to see your vids. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed..
was this awd?
No
BACKWOODZ CUSTOMZ 15 so I might just have to pull my engine then to get to my oil pan
@@David-fy6sm i doubt it, we have done several grand cherokees. Just drop everything out of your way, diff, axles, etc
Just heat the piston arm and piston should slid right on ,no fluids ,no press
Whatever works for you...
@@backwoodzcustomz1549 WORKS FOR LOTS OF PPL !!!
well it does mess with hearing MOPAR
Ok
Where there signs the engine was overheated? I have heard overheating causes the valve seat to drop out?
I have never had it happen to me, i bought it not running.
They WILL fall out even if NOT overheated. They were not installed properly at the factory!
Bruce Hevner what is Dodge doing to remedy the issue?
was heisst Murkser auf Englisch?
Sure?
I wish I know somebody other than the dealership to work on my 5.7, I'm in Jacksonville FL if anybodycan recommend someone 🤔
U can do it yourself its easy engine to work on I did mine
It's not a terrible job to do yourself, mostly time consuming. But, if you don't have tools or a place to work, your kind of our of luck. For what you will pay someone to do it, i.e. a shop, you can buy a nice set of tools, toolbox, and floor jack.
Look on Craigslist GIG jobs. There's always some ads for mobile mechanics. Network with coworkers too. Usually someone knows someone. Maintenance department workers usually know guys too. Women with husbands or boyfriends usually know somebody too. You know most women aren't going to be turning wrenches but they'll know someone most likely.
@marvinthomas they are easy, any of this new stuff is super easy to work on.