Freshening up a set 5.7L Hemi head's
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- We take you through the process of rebuilding a set of hemi heads and removing broken exh bolts.
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Love your videos, I’m weak from stage 4 cancer now and lay in bed a lot and these videos bring me joy !!! Thanks to Andrew once again also
Awesome, glad we can give u something to watch, I hope u win the battle!
I haven't seen a basic old school valve job done in years. Everyone seems to think you need carbides and a serdie to get it done. Still as good today as it was 50 years ago when I was taught. I like the tig welding of the busted bolts. All I have is a mig,but it works. Great video.
Right on
You have top notch equipment and a clean well maintained shop. A lot of shops just don't maintain their shop. I really started out swiping floors and taking out the trash, cleaning the restroom 🚻. The clean up boy is what they called me. 6 months later no experience the owner asked me if I wanted to be a mechanic,and I thought I hit the jackpot well I did and kept my work area very clean and well maintained until I retired 3 years ago. You were tough well, don't ever let you shop get dirty! Keep up the good work 💪.
Nope, clean is king, we do our best to at least do a good clean and mop once a week, ty I appreciate you noticing!
Always a pleasure to watch a true craftsman at work. Your commentary explaining is tremendous to understanding. Thank You.
Thank you very much!
Old school stoning of the seats. The way I learned it way back in vocational school. Kudos to Powell Machine crew for great informative videos ! 😊😊
Cool run through of a head rebuild. Appreciate you showing what you do and how you do it. Keep the videos coming theyre very fun to watch and helpful.
More to come!
Just like, almost , the way I was taught 60 years ago.
Looks good.
Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for watching!
Man, when I saw how you were ratcheting them bolts out , I could tell some old timer tought you or you've been around the block many times, , I like what you do
Really appreciate the content, the more things change the more they stay the same. Good to know that this method withstands the test of time.
Glad to help!
Hi, not a machinist but ran across your channel a while back. Retired now but I also took pride in my work throughout my career and can tell by the way you explain the process, you are at the top off your profession. Excellent video.
I just want to say I appreciate you doing the video on how to do the valve jobs cam Jefferson's in treating different materials that they made out of and so on and so on. The process that you go through and all the steps that you for us drag races enthusiast A hobbyist A streetcar guys. And stuff like that will boost your business showing you how serious you are about your job and your name of your company and your name as a person. And I myself just want to say thank you and please keep up the videos. I greatly appreciated it.
We appreciate that
@@powellmachineinc I just made a call to your company because I wanted to get a custom roller cam made for a 351 Windsor roller block. But didn't get an answer. But I did leave a message.
I love when people take pride in what they do and the level of professionalism is outstanding. Amazing company like this get a lot of respect in my book. Amazing video brother keep up the great work
Our pleasure!
Not even subscribed and brand new video comes up in my feed. Keep the content coming.
More to come!
Finally, old school seat grinding. I cannot tell you how great it is to see someone grind and not cut . Thanks. I started and finished grinding seats. I noticed you don’t move the valve face across the stone while grinding. Why is that? We always moved the valve to ensure the stone stayed flat. I started back in 1977 and ended my machine shop career in or around 1992 when I moved to doing automotive repairs. Thanks for your channel I really enjoy watching someone who knows what they are doin and are not arrogant about it.
We don't sweep when we grind cams,cranks,flywheels, ect, I feel like the table movement is not rigid enough (it's not Luke it has milling machine ways) so I just work my way across a fresh wheel.
Get some pool acid at your hardware store. I do 1 part pool acid to 4 parts water. Put the nuts on a wire and dip for 15 min-or when they stop fizzing Neutralize in a baking soda and water solution. The zinc will be gone.
Vinegar ought to work … maybe a little slower but maybe safer ?
I just use citric acid from the supermarket baking section. A few hours in a bucket of hot water/citric acid does the trick. I even chuck whole brake calipers etc in there before rebuilding them
quality work has a parallel: truth. Both are simple, straightforward, and easy to understand.
That head surfacer you have does a beautiful job. The old rotary broach head surfacer my father had didn't come close to that finished surface your machine does. That old machine has like 10 or 12 maybe more or less cutting bits you had to sync together and it was a pain in the butt. I always use fresh motor oil in the valve guide when installing the valves. But if the cylinder heads are not going to be put in service right away I use the same assembly lube in the tube you are using. Man I just love your videos and one of these days I'm going to show up at your shop just to watch you work and learn as much as my old brain will let me remember 😅
We really appreciate that 🙏, (I actually had a Vn broach for probably 20 year's
Nice to see engineers blue being used - gives a great visual of how the work is progressing. Nice job.
Exactly how it was done at Pete's machine, there was three stones so you could recut all angles as needed. Pete use to have to recut seats with stones on heads that came in that was previously done by a local speed and machine shop that had been done with cutters. I remember there was apiece of leather up in the drill chuck that was like a shock absorber that would help keep the stone from bouncing. Moist people might not know there are valve spring shims that can be installed under the springs to make up the clearance as needed due to metal removed from seats and valve faces. Also ends of the valve stems was cleaned up so they were smooth or flat due to wear on some of the ends. Generally of one needed a few thousands to clean up they all did. I remember Pete and Terry using a little dab of grease on the inside of each of the valve spring keepers so you would compress the springs and put the keepers on the end of the valve in the grooves and and the grease would hold the keepers and you could keep your hands away from the valve when you released the valve spring compressor. Looks like you are doing a great job, thanks for the video.
I'm watching your surface and valve job and of course broken exhaust manifold bolt class. I have the same stone tool setup I learned and used for many years. 90 percent of my experience with doing that type of value seat work is with old style heavy ass cast iron heads 😂. That procedure is completely great and works every time. You are exactly right on pulling the trigger and releasing just as fast. It doesn't take much at all to touch up the seats. One thing I have noticed with the aluminum head is the seat seems to be of a higher quality harder material than the cast iron heads.i have had great luck freshening up seats on an aluminum head with a good value lash procedure. Of course this is only with something that didn't have a problem to start with other than a lot of miles. The way you hit them seats and get back off is exactly the way my father taught me. ❤ I just love watching you work Daniel.
Absolutely!, we appreciate the support!
When, during I watch this, It motivates me to take to my old B275 Tractor and do the wheel bearings. 15 years has passed, and I might have not another 15. So, it is cleaned, blocked up with wood and rear wheels off. Time to make move! i wish there was an affordable way to get stuff to the United States, from Oz land!! cheers, all yous now!!!
You can do it!
Thanks, I will at that...@@powellmachineinc
Sir, thank you for the upload! I, thoroughly enjoyed it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have to extract bolts as a welder on a daily basis. Our metric bolts are all black oxide which welds great. Might be an option.
I learned to do valve jobs in high school shop class 20 something years ago. That kind of work was really enjoyable. The crap I work on now just gets a new head or an engine, nothing gets rebuilt anymore. Can't even turn brake rotors.
Yep
I used to have an old Sioux valve seat grinding kit my dad bought at a garage sale for $20! I can tell you that I got way more than $20 use out of it before it gave out. It’s nice seeing the old school way of doing things simply. Don’t get me wrong the Serdi is the bomb when you need to cut 3-5 angles consistently.
The lubriplate 105 grease is what I was taught to use on valves, rocker arm fulcrums and pushrod tips and I have never had any problems. Thanks for showing the products you use to assemble engines. And stones do a fine job doing a basic job and finishing.
Great tip!
You do really good work, take your time and do it right. Many thanks.
Very nice work. People that complain about the price of machine work. Need to watch this so they realize the time it takes to do things the right way.
💯
People always complain about the price of quality work because they have no idea the skill, tooling and time it takes.
This is like old home week. My
Dad used the same type of equipment to do valve jobs.
Your work, knowledge, and craftsmanship is impressive!!
Thank you very much!
Kool shop haven't seen a one person place in a long time and having so much grate equipment and knowledge in a young generation keep up the great work 👍
Right on
I love stones because of the speed and I like the mirror finish it leaves. I use Neway cutters and I have an old KO Lee 500 valve grinder. I use KLine valve guide liners on the old cast iron stuff. Your production vehicle valve job looks just like the ones I perform. Thanks for the video!
Had an old valve grinder and the tools for doing the valve seats giving to me. Watching your video helps a lot on how to use the stuff.
Glad it helped
@powellmachineinc3179 sorry meant to say I have a old valve grinder.
Just found your channel in the last couple weeks. Watched several videos and always looking for new uploads. Really Good content man.
Welcome aboard!
Very informative on how you do a valve job. I’ve done some home DIY valve job with hand tools which seems to take forever. Thanks for the videos! Please keep them coming. Love you watch a professional at work, you make it look so easy.
Very welcome
Hey you got you a boy named Sioux . I believe that is same one I learned on back in 76 . Dang I wish I lived closer . Even at 65 I am sure that I could help you and I know you that you would school me. Thank You . ALL THE BEST. Howard
I need lots of help!!
Commenting to bump you in the algorithm 👊👊 Love the content!
Much appreciated!
Hi Daniel, about 20 yrs. ago maybe 25, I did a valve job on my 1971 Ford pick-up 360 cu. in. (5.9L) for anyone who cares. I used the same equipment you just used and I was thinking I was gonna have to get another set of push rods. I checked the lifter preload and I forget the spec. but it was more than enough,and I didn't do that many valve jobs any more. My point is you have a hell of alot more equipment and know how than I do, so if I can do that good of a job, enough said, I tell these butt holes to go pound salt, show me your work or their credentials and F---OFF! You would be a great instructor Daniel Thanks!
Learning alot from these videos!
Glad to hear it!
I pretty well knew that the head you were working on at the beginning of the video was the right head when I noticed which end the bolt for the ground strap was at, but it was confirmed when you showed where the broken bolts were for the exhaust manifolds. On the 5.7 Hemis, they seem to ALWAYS break in the rear. Man, having a fine stone set up sure beats spending the day lapping!
Yep, the ls's always break 1 at rear and 1 at the front
That type of grinding Stone works. I use diamond stone. It costs a lot more but I've figured out it saves me a lot of $. The lifespan is greater.
Great work with all your video's and outstanding tech. For TIG weld nuts to studs I started using stainless nuts 45yrs ago and never looked back. They seem to absorb some of the carbon and are not as brittle. 308L rod is a little softer than 316L. My seat grinder is the same as yours but made in 1946. The book that was new with it has all the fighter planes/tractors/ auto/ trucks/ ect. back to before WW1. Valve spec's have not changed much at all in the last 100yrs. Like you said, I think in another video a 3 angle seat cut is a STOCK valve job. It set's seat with and location on the valve. It's not High Perf or Race anything. The other angle's are what after that help with flow. I also agree that the stones give better results than carbide machines, but takes SKILL to do it. Those machines are great for any major work.
Ok so now I understand what the guy said in a comment. He asked why you didn't move the the valve back and forth against the stone while grinding the valve seat surface. I was always taught to use the whole surface of the stone while grinding the valves. The reason explained to me was to prevent wearing wearing a spot into the grinding stone. The valve grinder I learned on is an old Black and Decker machine that is probably as old as me and still working great to this day
You are very skilled. It's very interesting to watch. Thanks for sharing.
Tyvm
Just learned a bunch! Thanks for sharing your profession. Allows me to speak intelligently to machinist.
Glad to help!!
Ya the 3/8 nuts , I always save my used rod nuts and use them , and some metric 8 mil or 5/16 . I find the tig works better than mig as you. Can bring tungsten out to get deeper on the ones busted below surface .
💯
the shops around here when cutting valves go back and forth on the stone as it cuts first time seen it done leaving left lever still while grinding
Leaving it still is more accurate IMHO
I oscillate then leave still the last second, back off the stone, move it away.
And do the tips. Non adjustable rockers will bottom the lifters. Cutting valves,seats, resurfacing heads brings everything down.
By the way, that machine requires the tips to be done before they are refaced. There is a chamfer attachment goes on the right side stone. Flat first, then chamfer . There is a taper inside the depth setter in the chuck that the champer sets in centering the valve stem. I was taught by the Souix company when our shop bought one.
Your doing a good job, thanks!
Once again great video! You seem to have all the patience in the world…..
Ty, my wife would probably disagree with you! Lol
That head surfacer you have does a beautiful job. The old rotary broach head surfacer my father had didn't come close to that finished surface your machine does. That old machine has like 10 or 12 maybe more or less cutting bits you had to sync together and it was a pain in the butt.
Nice work Daniel.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great weekend. 👍
Thanks, you too!
If you drill the threads out of the nut, it will save your Tungsten. It may take some more time, but you can drill a batch for the future too. You got steady hands.
Nota steady as they use to be!
Love the channel. All the way from Alberta Canada. You should get your boy a lease so when you weld we can see the process. Let the camera film through the lens
I didnt plan on watching an hour long video about a valve job but here we are.
Very nice work!
Thanks a lot!
MSC Direct or McMaster-Carr, both have plain finished/black oxide nuts...I think the brand is Brouton but I won't swear to it although I do know it starts with a B
another informative video . I enjoyed doing valve jobs with a grinding set .
Just the way my shop teacher taught. Nicely done! ! !
That plating on those nuts, when welded lets off gases that are not good for the lungs. I soak mine in muriatic acid for 5 minutes first.
That Sioux 680 is a nice machine.
Never seen valves done, great video thank you!
Thanks for watching!
I love this video, I've often wondered how valve seats are cleaned up. How can someone get started in this sort of repair work. Outside of buying tools?
I was pretty upset with an engine I had built over 10 years by a "pro race engine builder". The installed spring hights were all over the place and floated the valves at like 5k. I went through and shimmed them to what they were supposed to be and it ran out better but still not what I wanted. Ended up wiping out the bottom end in short time 😢. I'll never use him again.
Not seen the valve seat grinder since HS Auto Shop in 1969. Fifty years later and still being used.
OUTSTANDING JOB!
I mig them at the shop but they’re always on the vehicle. The tig,from just looking at the way you’re doing it,seems significantly better than mig.
Nice work and heads.
Many many thanks
If you want the zinc off, dip the nuts in straight muriatic acid. I get mine from the swimming pool supply section at Home Depot. If you dont know DO NOT breath the fumes ! Muriatic acid also removes galvanization and rust in just a short time. Do not use it on aluminum cuz it will dissolve it. It also eats concrete. After de rusting iron or steel you must de activate the acid with a water baking soda mixture and rinse with water. Dry immediately and coat with oil to prevent flash rusting. It will also clean copper in a few seconds and make it look like new.
Iv had to weld a nut on a broken bolt 10 times be for too get one out I can't believe how easy they coming out .
Definitely
great job thanks for sharing
I enjoy watching your videos plus it's educational love your attitude and integrity
I use muriatic acid. Takes the coating off fast.
One thing I learned myself the hard way is after the valves are installed into the head I will take a block of wood and small hammer then smack every valve tip one time. If the keepers are not 100 percent in their place the wood and hammer will let the keepers jump out of place.
New Sub, Down the road in Belton. Man, your videos are great.
Thanks for the sub!
Hey Daniel, I always use a seal protector when installing valve seals, is it not necessary?
It's good practice, we make sure the valve is bur free and thet slide on no problem
I'm a professional welder in a med sized fab shop and you are right to use tig, for that application tig is pretty much the only thing you would even need in an engine shop, lately we have been building a bunch of big aluminum boats like 25'-35' a 50' is coming up soon that are mostly Migged and aluminum mig is messy and inferior and nowhere as easy to make look nice, it's also very hard to be precise with it like driving a 6 penny with a 4 lb mallet. It has its place but that ain it. Your rear cap is snapped off exposing the passage that hole goes all the way through and can allow air in your gas. You should plug it with at least a screw or something or buy a new one, the stubby button type is nice makes it so easier to fit in tight spots, you just have to cut your tungsten really short but if your not dipping your tungsten constantly it's not an issue. Wow You can really hear how out of whack that first valve was before grinding it.
Curious what your take is on the cause of 5.7 Hemi "tick". There is tons of talk about why these Hemi's eat cams and lifters. No one seems to agree. Love to hear what you are seeing. Enjoying your content!
Ty, multiple issues, horrible lifter angle, bad rocker geometry, cam doesn't get splash lubrication well, crap lifters, lot's of issues in 1 package
Allen's fasteners is where I ended up finding plain nuts with no coating, had the same problem, and they're like .03-.10 depending on size.
Do you have to push down at all or does the weight of the tool do just enough on the valve seat?
Just the weight, no push
I have an old but good built grinder. I learned to move the lever back and forth to sweep the valve across the wheel while grinding. This keeps the wheel even across its face and to prevent a cup in the wheel.
What is the proper way?
Mike
That's the way I do it too. Just a little back and forth. I love watching others. I'm 65 and always learning.
I find it's best to not sweep, I dress my stone amd start on the inside and work my way out and use up the entire face of the stone
Sweeping causes ridging.
I have used a rock tumbler with abrasives to get that zinc coating off of nuts and bolts :) harbor freight has some decent ones that are inexpensive and get the job done.
Hi, love My Sioux seat grinder tools been using that method for 35 years , thousands of valve jobs later. So that’s a 45deg you put on them?.
Yes
QUESTION . HOW DO YOU GET THE SEAT DEPTH ALL THE SAME ON A PREFORMANCE APLICATION ? THANKS
We will do a video on it
When I worked in machine shop (for about 10 years) we always done 3 angle valve jobs on everything, has that tradition went away, I don't know just asking.
It has 3 angles
how do you keep the seats from falling out? It's common on these from what I hear.
08 and back are the problem, we replace the seats with the proper press fit
are any of the hemi's as good as and LS1?
Put one of those valve seal installers aside for me. Definitely want one
I remember doing those Chevy V6 heads, some of the exhaust seats were so far off a guy would swear the valve stem had to be bent a little.
Absolutely 💯
After surfacing the head, does that alter the compression ratio of the engine or is it just part of the tolerance? Would you typically use a thicker head gasket to compensate for the loss of material?
I’m not an engine builder or anything like that; this is just an observation I made. I’m fascinated with the excellent work that you do.
No, we only removed. 006" it's so little it's no issue
Very cool process balancing the crankshaft… that being said, I’m a little confused about the screw in main studs LS3 video. You said installing studs instead of the factory bolts increases bearing clearance on the mains? You’d think it’s got greater clamping force and would decrease the crankshaft to bearing clearance on the mains. I seen another video where they said it tightened the bearing clearances using studs. Can’t recall the name of the RUclipsrs name.
Cheers
Yep , soaking in vinegar , muratic acid , or even citric acid , will remove the zinc coating from nuts . Though do it outside unless you like the smell of farts in the shop .
I like the lubriplate on valves . I'm going to start using lubriplate .
Next time you try to get brocken studs out, weld a flat washer to it first then weld the nut to the washer,especialley if there broke deep inside the hole
McMaster-Carr has welding nuts, ive bought some from them before!
muriatic acid works perfect to remove zinc and works great on mill scale just make sure to do it in a well ventilated area.
How often do you get asked for a custom grind? And what angle are they usually asking for?
Great job....I wonder why they don't make a one piece valve spring lock instead of a two piece?
How the hell would you get them on the valve stem?
Looking good
Thanks 👍
OK . I HAVE MORE QUESTIONS. WHEN YOU MILL THE HEADS ON A PREFORMANCE APLICATION HOW DO YOU CHECK THE VALVE SEAT DEPTH TO KNOW WHEATHER ORNOT TO SHIM?? OR TO MILL? THANKS
The deck surface doesn't affect the seat depth
thank you@@powellmachineinc
I have a 95 5.7 with 180k on it. I also have a set of vortex heads that I want to put on this engine. Your thoughts whether I should rebuild engine. It is in great shape. Planning on it being a daily driver
If it's in great shape, why would it need a rebuild?
Lubriplate i have a tube great stuff. 40 years old 😊time is jetting 😮 you are a natural . STAYCOOL
Thank you!
this is good videos love building motors sts industrial have non coated nuts i believe