Reminds me of some of the contractors I've worked for. Never have time to do it right,but plenty of time to do it twice. Your channel rules. Work ethic and integrity. Always taking time to do it right a d explain how to do it right.
Where i work the service truck i drive i had to remove the cylinder heads due to them being cracked and leaking coolant into the engine oil as well as burning it. This engine was replaced 4 years previous to my employment and when i removed the cylinder heads Stevie wonder got ahold of the ball hone and honed it. No cross-hatch, just stayed in one spot. And this engine was built by a very well known engine rebuilder / used engine dealer by the name of Dahmer powertrain here in kansas city. So i removed the engine and had it bored and honed correctly by a reputable well known machine shop. It pays to do good work. My company will never do business with Dahmer Powertrain again. By the way it was a 6.6 Duramax. Great channel. Keep up the good work. Quality work is hard to find these days.
When I watch your videos, it takes me back to about 1971-72 when I "rebuilt" a 327 small block Chevy engine. Why that engine even ran when I was finished is beyond me. I really need to charge the battery on my time machine so that I can go back and do the job properly. As they say, "We get too soon old and too late smart."
I remember way back in the day we knurled used pistons to tighten them up in the bore when we did a ring, bearing, and valve job. Sioux valve grinder that was originally dry with a coffee can full of oil hung above it to drip while I ground. Black and decker vibrocentric seat grinder, I must be old lol
I have a mill, lathe, turret lathe, surface grinder, and some other old machines I got from my friend when he bought new equipment. They are old and he made scrap metal with them. He needs more precision than me. I'm just a hack. I have done some single cylinders for my friends and myself. I love your videos. It takes me way longer to set up and sometimes I have to buy tooling that costs more than sending it out. I try to learn and sometimes I throw parts away. Keep up the work. I learn from you.
Yup,if I could get a truck and do a 500mi one way trip to Akron ohio ,a buddy has a couple of milling machines and lathes and some other equipment he pushed back in the corner of his shop since he's doing a lot of CNC production now. He's still got a few machines set up,but it's more for himself. All they're worth to him at the moment is scrap value.
@@MrTheHillfolk I'm an hour from Akron. My friend just started under cdl hauling. He had a 9k lb mill on last week. Let me know if you need them moved.
It blows my mind the crap some shops think pass as acceptable work! Good thing this block ended up at your shop, because it gets done right and the owner will have a good motor.
I absolutely love your approach to this subject! I can learn more by listening to you talk about it that I ever could reading it. Can ya'll build a motor for my ZL1?
@@powellmachineinc very cool... I'm having trouble deciding what to build. I'm at 623 HP to the rear wheels (2013) on stock short block and heads running E60. I want to go to 7.0L will that be ok?
Your “Dingle-Berry” 320 grit hone comment made me laugh hard. The tool AKA “Flex Stone” are in my tool box reserved for inline 4 cylinder engines that seem to inherently have less thrust wear, lower cylinder pressures as most are “Square” or slightly “Over Square” as I was taught. I had $900 in a Sunnen Portable Cylinder Hone” dial-in to one ten thousandth of an inch increment’s. Making side money on Saturdays trying hard to remove out of round Harley jugs from the AMF era. I don’t know why other than the piston pin hole was offset 3 skeeter legs for thrust wear. They stacked up like cordwood. Either way, two brothers ran this shop. The one brother did electrical as I found out after hours having a beer, he was color blind. He was forced to use a volt-ohm meter on everything and was good on electrical because of his issue. End! Went there to work and they packed up, took my equipment and disappeared. I didn’t even get my last cash for work I had done. No bore gauge as I used 8” feeler gauge set for piston fitment. Still have the feeler gauge set marked Starrett. What you see is what you measure. Numbers are fixed and have meaning!
Super interesting. I didn’t know the Toyota V6 could be rebuilt. I thought once they were done, they were done. I have a 2GR-FE and hope to get a gazillion miles out of it.
Another great video! As I watch your videos, I think.....why don't these shops watch your channel to learn the right way to do things? I have learned more from you in the past year about engines and machining , than I have in 20 years of reading and watching others. I wish I lived close by so I could work for you for free just to learn. Thanks!
Been assembling engines for over 50 years, thought the grey sludge was a normal part of break in. I think it’s time for the local machine shop to get up to speed. Once again, thanks for the information
Thank god for an honest man. I do this type of thing every day and that's exactly how things are. I bore for .003-.004 short of size. .0025 will work but safer to leave a margin or error. Well done.
Thanks Again Daniel. and yes we requested to have over sized pistons to next available size and the response was “there isn’t any, only std bore” Love the videos and quality you pour into the machine work.
Love the way you explained the need to check tolerance of any work on clearances no mater who does your machine work. You sound like my grand father and father who had a black Smith and small machine shop just out side of your town of iva until early 60s thanks for all the great work you do and keeping the trade correct ❤
Thinking about air cooled aircraft engine cylinders. We have taper at the top with the intention that it will expand to the correct size when it hits operational temps of about 400ºF. The taper can be as low as 0.002 inches or as much as 0.008 inches! The level of precision in modern Automotive engines is, by comparison, epic good.
Love your work, brother. Sadly, what's missing here, is a demijohn of white lightnin', and a corn cob pipe with some decent Virginia and Kentucky blend.
I’m a motorcycle mechanic and recondioners who couldn’t get their heads around tight tolerance have been one of my biggest issues over the years . Current guy is good , I just tell him “ no more than 1 thou - if the piston just falls through the bore under its own weight then it’s loose enough . Did have to take one back that needed a little “ push “ , but in all honesty. If that was my engine , I would have assembled it like that and run it in a bit longer . 30 years ago I didn’t matter what you asked for - they always came back 2 1/2 - 3 thou , basically 3/4 worn out . .
As always, a great video for learning new stuff. I watch several RUclips machine shops and I like seeing the different machines that do the same jobs and how they have changed over the years.
When I was running the shop we measured everything before it went to the machine shop and measured everything we got back. Then we assembled the engine. I was never a fan of having the machine shop assemble engines because it was too easy for somebody who wanted to cut corners to hide that in the assembled engine. I never had a bad machining job with the "regular" shop I used but I did run into problems when we couldn't get the job done by the regular shop due to scheduling problems. If you NEED to know the actual size of things I've found the mid priced Chinese tools will get the job done. When I was teaching we had students using that stuff all day and it was definitely close enough ( 5-6 tenths ) to my Starett & Mitutoyo ( made years ago) tools.
I was a millrite for GM for 32 years i find someone like you to take my stuff to then i trust him pay him of what we agreed on then after the project i catch him up on his extra work he didand i expect things to be rite if there not we can work it out then christmas i take him a good bottle of whisky and invite him to go dear hunting with me and i pay for all the trip because he is that important to me bush performance motors he is alot like you from the frist time i felt a trust you give that same vibe
Thats great I didnt know the rings slid on a film of oill like a bearing or why the cylinders had groves for some reason I always thought the rings just seat into the groves some how. Thanks for the info very educational.
Pure Gearhead Gold (PGG). You've completely changed the way I'll "shadetree" a motor in the future. The check is in the mail my firend. p.s. A clean shop is a canvas for a happy life. Clearly you must be very happy Thanks so much.
this sounds just like my recent 4 cyl build. i asked the machine shop to just touch the cyls with a hone so i had a nice surface to break in my rings. engine ran great before refresh. i saw shadows on the thrust side and trusted their measurements of the bores as it showed to be in spec for std size pistons. i have skirt slap until the engine is warm :(
@@powellmachineinc considering its just a noise im not very motivated to take it all apart again. i purchased the parts to do it if the chance arrises, then comes the task of finding a good machinist.
I have turned down work for this reason. A customer comes and says "I just need you to hone it and give me a good surface for new rings." If it is out of spec I say "No Thanks." -which is like every time.
I 100% agree with you on measuring tools all around. Maybe I’m just old school or an ass,but how in the hell can someone put out that kind of work and rest well. They have to know that the recipient of the work is going to know who did it. Some characters must just not give 2 damns about their work quality or their character. Nah,it’s about them making a quick buck for nothing and shipping it. Excellent job and fantastic work from the Powell family for making it right for those needing a trustworthy Master of his trade. I wish there were more of us.
I don't doubt it a bit. Back in the 80's I bought a rusted El Camino from a guy with a fresh 350 and I could see the Engine Rebuilders tag right on the front of the block.They were a volume shop located in Little Rock. Pulled the motor for a swap and thought I'd just freshen it up and there it was, bored .030 with 4 cylinders still sporting shadows in the middle plus a 307 crankshaft.
Stone length should be 1/2 cylinder length. You can shorten the stones as needed. Honing slower always works better than faster. You should have been in low gear to finish. Good job just handy hints from a brother at the same level. Operating old machines into the future and still winning.
I haven't bothered to check with the newer engines like the LS, but the old 350 Chev engines, the clearance was in the bores at standard. If you order a new set of standard pistons, well they have say 0.003" clearance built in. Now you have 0.004 or 0.005 piston to wall clearance. The only place for standard size pistons is a brand new block or one that has been sleeved back to standard.
Glad to see the keyboard experts are still contributing. Low gear for honing? You haven't ever done this before. The only motors you have done were junk. You don't know how to read any micrometer. Your measuring standards are not accurate. What else might they say. All I can say is that you need to have thick skin to put something up on RUclips. Yours is a lot thicker than mine. I would challenge anyone who sits behind the pseudonym to say their comments face to face and show me that do actually know what they are talking about. Also the many race winning engines they have built. That's why I have no intention of ever putting anything on RUclips. You do good work Daniel, Aleesha and Andrew. Keep it up. Have learnt heaps. Retired mechanic/manual machinist in lathes and milling machines in Land Down Under.
This always goes back to. It’s never the machinist fault when you don’t have the tools to check the work you paid for who really pays the engine shop always blames the builder every machine shop I have been to is way behind months and when you get something it’s usually junk nowadays glad someone actually cares about it being done right.
Hey brother, I get it. I've been doing aerospace machining and flight parts for a long time. I hear some people talk about how they are accurate to within . 0002 over a 36in table he supposedly hand scraped. Not in your garage you didn't. The biggest question is, how did you check it. You aren't going to use a height gage on your little granite block to check flatness, squareness, true position, perpendicularity and everything else, that's a pretty tall order. Especially using that GEM indicator they've got. Or Baker Welding 1 inch travel indicator. But I also get the budget guys and theyre used stuff. Not everybody can afford a nice new block or crank and rods, for a class that doesn't pay anything for a win. I was in the industry, for years, and I can't afford to do it, even doing 90%of the work myself.
I noticed that there were 3 round fingers that protrude horizontally from the boring head. What are you moving or turning to make these 3 shafts come out of the boring head to center the boring bar in the cylinder? BTW, thanks for the comments about piston/cylinder clearances with standard pistons in a used "UP" non-standard block! I have a 2002 5.3 Silverado LS engine that has piston noise for about 3 minutes total running time at each start up! Doesn't take any oil, but the noise is noticeable only on cold start-ups! Thanks again so much for your videos! Very helpful in many aspects of engine building!
The block I'm working with now, a 351W roller block, had all cylinders well within spec although a good honing would have brought those measurements to the spec limit except for one issue - all the cylinders had a .001 to .0015 'dip' on the exhaust side within about 1/2" from the top that put the cylinders out of spec. Odd, I thought. Going in for .020 overs.
I have argued for years that you dont thneed expensive mics and dial bore gauge. I have Chinese measuring tools that are supposed to be made to ISO 9001 standards that i bought from Jegs ,years ago. I agree with you that it's a reference number. I work on snowmobile and motorcycle motors .
Failing to check ring end gap after a rebore is a mistake that only has to happen once to a person to make you a believer! The excessive blowby that resulted from the parts store supplying standard rings to an oversize cylinder required complete removal and disassembly of a newly rebuilt engine to install the correct size piston rings! Check and recheck while its apart, mistakes happen! Been there!
Hi I have bored lot of dirt track motors 40 and run 30 over pistons and 40 rings that lasted a long time.just what is your thoughts on that.that won a lot of races
Have you run into one of the Toyota 2zz engines with the ceramic bore? I wonder if those show much for taper or out of round over time. You can't bore or hone them.
What type ring is being used? yeah those factory piston to bore clearances are small.were the .5mm piston pretty uniform in size each piston? factory usually select fits.
You were saying that 0.005" clearance is too much for a cast piston even when it's warmed up, do you have any experience building demolition derby engines and what clearances they use to keep from stalling when overheated? Thanks
@@powellmachineinc I 100% agree, I was just curious if you had built/machined any for derby. I've run derby over the years and always looking for helping tips and tricks
Does your boring machine reference off the deck? And if so, are there ever surprises that lack of bore squareness to the deck means it doesn't clean up as expected to the pistons you already bought?
After watching so many of these Machine shop videos I have noticed a trend of really poor machine shop work coming to all these different shops. I know they are out there but I cant believe there are THAT many shops that are turning out work this bad and still able to stay in business. What I'm hoping is "I got it back from another shop and it was like this" is just code for "I watched sloppy mechanics and tried to dingle ball it myself, But I f'ed it away and now I don't want to admit it".
I have 0-4" Chinese mikes from the 1980s. They are as precise as the Mitutoyos, Starretts, and Browne & Sharps I also use. I also have a Chinese dial bore gauge set from the same era. They're as good as any I've used. I've seen some real crap tools from China, too.
Its because what realy happens is the ring wear actualy make bore smaller in middle by ring metal melting to wall and wearing and wearing on the top So instead of line hone he grabs drill with ball hone and makes it all worse especially on top wear ring you need like a brake cylinder type hone but bigger longer pads to level and straiten bore and usually making bore bigger
When your turning metal, for example, brake rotors. When you make deep cuts 5 thou+, is it better to slow rotation or increase rotation speed, We had on A/C motors and they never overheated @ 5 thou, since they bought new machines with brushless DC motors, I find it overheating often. I Need to cut deep for efficiency. Any tips?
I was always told that aluminum blocks needed to be machined using torque plates to keep the cylinders from going out of round. However, the people making these statements were not machinists. I was wondering what your opinion is on this.
I have the same kwickway boring machine, I haven't used it in years but sure did punch alot of holes with it, also have a Van Norman portable bar to, is that a 777 sitting on of your boring table ??
That's what I have 944S , lighter and more manageable than the 777, extremely accurate and repeatable, that was the bar I started with, I made up a slick quick clamp to clamp on top of the block, came off main journal instead trying to hook it at bottom of cylinder, I've had that bar for 40 years !!
Reminds me of some of the contractors I've worked for. Never have time to do it right,but plenty of time to do it twice. Your channel rules. Work ethic and integrity. Always taking time to do it right a d explain how to do it right.
Right on, I really appreciate that 🙏
Completely, agree!
You can do it right, or right now. Usually not both!
Heat info! Thank-you, so much!!
Dang I learn all kinds of stuff from this guy. Makes me want to tear the whole engine apart and re do it
Glad it's helpful
Where i work the service truck i drive i had to remove the cylinder heads due to them being cracked and leaking coolant into the engine oil as well as burning it. This engine was replaced 4 years previous to my employment and when i removed the cylinder heads Stevie wonder got ahold of the ball hone and honed it. No cross-hatch, just stayed in one spot. And this engine was built by a very well known engine rebuilder / used engine dealer by the name of Dahmer powertrain here in kansas city. So i removed the engine and had it bored and honed correctly by a reputable well known machine shop. It pays to do good work. My company will never do business with Dahmer Powertrain again. By the way it was a 6.6 Duramax. Great channel. Keep up the good work. Quality work is hard to find these days.
Thank you for watching!
I swear u have the cleanest machine shop I've ever seen.
I got ocd about a nasty shop!
@@powellmachineinc
👍👍👍
As you may know, machinr shops are the worst of the bad. And it is immaculate.
Machine shops are like wizards. The patients it takes to do this is amazing.
We try hard
Your machine shop is very clean, and well maintained. Nice job.
Yes, we take pride in our shop and work!
Another masterclass in automotive machining. Thank you, sir. Always worth watching, even for non-machinists.
We appreciate that!
When I watch your videos, it takes me back to about 1971-72 when I "rebuilt" a 327 small block Chevy engine. Why that engine even ran when I was finished is beyond me. I really need to charge the battery on my time machine so that I can go back and do the job properly. As they say, "We get too soon old and too late smart."
Definitely
I remember way back in the day we knurled used pistons to tighten them up in the bore when we did a ring, bearing, and valve job. Sioux valve grinder that was originally dry with a coffee can full of oil hung above it to drip while I ground. Black and decker vibrocentric seat grinder, I must be old lol
It was like that when I started
Valve guides too!
I have a mill, lathe, turret lathe, surface grinder, and some other old machines I got from my friend when he bought new equipment. They are old and he made scrap metal with them. He needs more precision than me. I'm just a hack. I have done some single cylinders for my friends and myself. I love your videos. It takes me way longer to set up and sometimes I have to buy tooling that costs more than sending it out. I try to learn and sometimes I throw parts away. Keep up the work. I learn from you.
That is exactly how to do it!
Yup,if I could get a truck and do a 500mi one way trip to Akron ohio ,a buddy has a couple of milling machines and lathes and some other equipment he pushed back in the corner of his shop since he's doing a lot of CNC production now.
He's still got a few machines set up,but it's more for himself.
All they're worth to him at the moment is scrap value.
@@MrTheHillfolk I'm an hour from Akron. My friend just started under cdl hauling. He had a 9k lb mill on last week. Let me know if you need them moved.
It blows my mind the crap some shops think pass as acceptable work! Good thing this block ended up at your shop, because it gets done right and the owner will have a good motor.
We really appreciate the vote of confidence!!
I absolutely love your approach to this subject! I can learn more by listening to you talk about it that I ever could reading it. Can ya'll build a motor for my ZL1?
Absolutely
@@powellmachineinc very cool... I'm having trouble deciding what to build. I'm at 623 HP to the rear wheels (2013) on stock short block and heads running E60. I want to go to 7.0L will that be ok?
Your “Dingle-Berry” 320 grit hone comment made me laugh hard. The tool AKA “Flex Stone” are in my tool box reserved for inline 4 cylinder engines that seem to inherently have less thrust wear, lower cylinder pressures as most are “Square” or slightly “Over Square” as I was taught. I had $900 in a Sunnen Portable Cylinder Hone” dial-in to one ten thousandth of an inch increment’s. Making side money on Saturdays trying hard to remove out of round Harley jugs from the AMF era. I don’t know why other than the piston pin hole was offset 3 skeeter legs for thrust wear. They stacked up like cordwood. Either way, two brothers ran this shop. The one brother did electrical as I found out after hours having a beer, he was color blind. He was forced to use a volt-ohm meter on everything and was good on electrical because of his issue. End! Went there to work and they packed up, took my equipment and disappeared. I didn’t even get my last cash for work I had done. No bore gauge as I used 8” feeler gauge set for piston fitment. Still have the feeler gauge set marked Starrett.
What you see is what you measure. Numbers are fixed and have meaning!
Lol, ty!
Lord save us. I had the argument 10 years ago. This is a great video, and I appreciate all the information
Glad it was helpful!
Super interesting. I didn’t know the Toyota V6 could be rebuilt. I thought once they were done, they were done. I have a 2GR-FE and hope to get a gazillion miles out of it.
I see it all the time on RUclips.
Dingle berries using a dingle berry and swearing "that's all you need right there".
Yup
Another great video! As I watch your videos, I think.....why don't these shops watch your channel to learn the right way to do things? I have learned more from you in the past year about engines and machining , than I have in 20 years of reading and watching others. I wish I lived close by so I could work for you for free just to learn. Thanks!
Awesome, I really appreciate you
Been assembling engines for over 50 years, thought the grey sludge was a normal part of break in. I think it’s time for the local machine shop to get up to speed. Once again, thanks for the information
Right on
Thank god for an honest man. I do this type of thing every day and that's exactly how things are. I bore for .003-.004 short of size. .0025 will work but safer to leave a margin or error. Well done.
💯 ty
Johnny Bravo as a machinist❤❤🎉
Lol
@@powellmachineinc 🫶🩷
I’m liking these Ray Charles stories, keep up the good work. 👍
Glad you like them!
Just ordered a hoodie but still holding out hope for the, “Hang loose, Let’s get into it!” edition. Great video and very informative. Thank you.
There coming
Thanks Again Daniel.
and yes we requested to have over sized pistons to next available size and the response was “there isn’t any, only std bore”
Love the videos and quality you pour into the machine work.
We appreciate the business!
Love the way you explained the need to check tolerance of any work on clearances no mater who does your machine work. You sound like my grand father and father who had a black Smith and small machine shop just out side of your town of iva until early 60s thanks for all the great work you do and keeping the trade correct ❤
Absolutely!
Thinking about air cooled aircraft engine cylinders. We have taper at the top with the intention that it will expand to the correct size when it hits operational temps of about 400ºF. The taper can be as low as 0.002 inches or as much as 0.008 inches! The level of precision in modern Automotive engines is, by comparison, epic good.
Ty great video, really informative, much appreciated.As a tradesman learning something new correctly is much appreciated .
Love your work, brother.
Sadly, what's missing here, is a demijohn of white lightnin', and a corn cob pipe with some decent Virginia and Kentucky blend.
I will agree 👍
I’m a motorcycle mechanic and recondioners who couldn’t get their heads around tight tolerance have been one of my biggest issues over the years . Current guy is good , I just tell him “ no more than 1 thou - if the piston just falls through the bore under its own weight then it’s loose enough . Did have to take one back that needed a little “ push “ , but in all honesty. If that was my engine , I would have assembled it like that and run it in a bit longer . 30 years ago I didn’t matter what you asked for - they always came back 2 1/2 - 3 thou , basically 3/4 worn out . .
Definitely
Learn something new every time I watch one of these videos...
Awesome
As always, a great video for learning new stuff. I watch several RUclips machine shops and I like seeing the different machines that do the same jobs and how they have changed over the years.
Glad you like them!
Aaaah a CK-10 hone and a Kwikway boring bar, those machines run forever I love em.
Yes sir
Learn something every time. Thanks for all the effort and time it takes to make one of your videos.
I appreciate that!
This is absolutely the stuff we want to see!
Keep em coming
💯, will do
You guys are really inspiring on here one day i can build a engine i just do mobile mechanics self taught and i do good work
Ty, we really appreciate that 🙏
Both entertaining AND informative! Thanks for taking the time…
Absolutely
When I was running the shop we measured everything before it went to the machine shop and measured everything we got back. Then we assembled the engine.
I was never a fan of having the machine shop assemble engines because it was too easy for somebody who wanted to cut corners to hide that in the assembled engine.
I never had a bad machining job with the "regular" shop I used but I did run into problems when we couldn't get the job done by the regular shop due to scheduling problems.
If you NEED to know the actual size of things I've found the mid priced Chinese tools will get the job done. When I was teaching we had students using that stuff all day and it was definitely close enough ( 5-6 tenths ) to my Starett & Mitutoyo ( made years ago) tools.
💯
No doubt, it's right now! Great job, sir! Always a pleasure, watching your channel!
Awesome! Thank you!
I was a millrite for GM for 32 years i find someone like you to take my stuff to then i trust him pay him of what we agreed on then after the project i catch him up on his extra work he didand i expect things to be rite if there not we can work it out then christmas i take him a good bottle of whisky and invite him to go dear hunting with me and i pay for all the trip because he is that important to me bush performance motors he is alot like you from the frist time i felt a trust you give that same vibe
We really appreciate that 💯
Thanks for sharing Daniel, all of us here really appreciate you going through all this extra work off filming
My pleasure!
That boring bare is super neat! I feel like that’s something someone can acquire without taking out a second mortgage.
Absolutely 💯
You’re thumbnail made me spit out my fries that I was eating… thank you
Sorry!
I love this guy, he's such a smart and well spoken dude. Those Kwik Way machines are amazing, made to last a lifetime!
Tyvm
This type of job needs an acronym... "The RCDBHJ" - the Ray Charles dingleberry hone job
Lol
Thats great I didnt know the rings slid on a film of oill like a bearing or why the cylinders had groves for some reason I always thought the rings just seat into the groves some how. Thanks for the info very educational.
@@SubieMayhem absolutely, our pleasure
Pure Gearhead Gold (PGG). You've completely changed the way I'll "shadetree" a motor in the future. The check is in the mail my firend. p.s. A clean shop is a canvas for a happy life. Clearly you must be very happy Thanks so much.
Ty, we r really appreciate you
this sounds just like my recent 4 cyl build. i asked the machine shop to just touch the cyls with a hone so i had a nice surface to break in my rings. engine ran great before refresh. i saw shadows on the thrust side and trusted their measurements of the bores as it showed to be in spec for std size pistons. i have skirt slap until the engine is warm :(
Yep, it's scary out there
@@powellmachineinc considering its just a noise im not very motivated to take it all apart again. i purchased the parts to do it if the chance arrises, then comes the task of finding a good machinist.
Say what you will, but Ray keeps busy.
Facts.....
He got plenty of action.
I have turned down work for this reason. A customer comes and says "I just need you to hone it and give me a good surface for new rings." If it is out of spec I say "No Thanks." -which is like every time.
Yep...but this customer wanted it done right, the shop chose to ray Charles it
I 100% agree with you on measuring tools all around. Maybe I’m just old school or an ass,but how in the hell can someone put out that kind of work and rest well. They have to know that the recipient of the work is going to know who did it. Some characters must just not give 2 damns about their work quality or their character. Nah,it’s about them making a quick buck for nothing and shipping it. Excellent job and fantastic work from the Powell family for making it right for those needing a trustworthy Master of his trade. I wish there were more of us.
Tyvm, yeah, a lot of people just don't care they want to get it out the door and get paid....
I don't doubt it a bit. Back in the 80's I bought a rusted El Camino from a guy with a fresh 350 and I could see the Engine Rebuilders tag right on the front of the block.They were a volume shop located in Little Rock. Pulled the motor for a swap and thought I'd just freshen it up and there it was, bored .030 with 4 cylinders still sporting shadows in the middle plus a 307 crankshaft.
Stone length should be 1/2 cylinder length. You can shorten the stones as needed. Honing slower always works better than faster. You should have been in low gear to finish. Good job just handy hints from a brother at the same level. Operating old machines into the future and still winning.
Stones are cut down, what do you mean "low gear"
I haven't bothered to check with the newer engines like the LS, but the old 350 Chev engines, the clearance was in the bores at standard. If you order a new set of standard pistons, well they have say 0.003" clearance built in. Now you have 0.004 or 0.005 piston to wall clearance. The only place for standard size pistons is a brand new block or one that has been sleeved back to standard.
No, a cast piston in any water cooled engine will have .002 or less
Thanks a million! I still get a giggle out of the Ray Charles reference!!
Lol
Ray Charles sure gets around.
Definitely
Thanks for sharing !! That engine would run but would knock and use oil.
Thanks, definitely
Glad to see the keyboard experts are still contributing. Low gear for honing? You haven't ever done this before. The only motors you have done were junk. You don't know how to read any micrometer. Your measuring standards are not accurate. What else might they say. All I can say is that you need to have thick skin to put something up on RUclips. Yours is a lot thicker than mine. I would challenge anyone who sits behind the pseudonym to say their comments face to face and show me that do actually know what they are talking about. Also the many race winning engines they have built. That's why I have no intention of ever putting anything on RUclips. You do good work Daniel, Aleesha and Andrew. Keep it up. Have learnt heaps. Retired mechanic/manual machinist in lathes and milling machines in Land Down Under.
Yep, it's crazy 🤪
This always goes back to. It’s never the machinist fault when you don’t have the tools to check the work you paid for who really pays the engine shop always blames the builder every machine shop I have been to is way behind months and when you get something it’s usually junk nowadays glad someone actually cares about it being done right.
We try hard!
Hey brother, I get it. I've been doing aerospace machining and flight parts for a long time. I hear some people talk about how they are accurate to within . 0002 over a 36in table he supposedly hand scraped. Not in your garage you didn't. The biggest question is, how did you check it. You aren't going to use a height gage on your little granite block to check flatness, squareness, true position, perpendicularity and everything else, that's a pretty tall order. Especially using that GEM indicator they've got. Or Baker Welding 1 inch travel indicator. But I also get the budget guys and theyre used stuff. Not everybody can afford a nice new block or crank and rods, for a class that doesn't pay anything for a win. I was in the industry, for years, and I can't afford to do it, even doing 90%of the work myself.
Good show.
Definitely
I noticed that there were 3 round fingers that protrude horizontally from the boring head. What are you moving or turning to make these 3 shafts come out of the boring head to center the boring bar in the cylinder? BTW, thanks for the comments about piston/cylinder clearances with standard pistons in a used "UP" non-standard block! I have a 2002 5.3 Silverado LS engine that has piston noise for about 3 minutes total running time at each start up! Doesn't take any oil, but the noise is noticeable only on cold start-ups! Thanks again so much for your videos! Very helpful in many aspects of engine building!
You are very welcome
I sure wish I could learn this business, it's just amazing.!!!!
You can!
The block I'm working with now, a 351W roller block, had all cylinders well within spec although a good honing would have brought those measurements to the spec limit except for one issue - all the cylinders had a .001 to .0015 'dip' on the exhaust side within about 1/2" from the top that put the cylinders out of spec. Odd, I thought. Going in for .020 overs.
Definitely
I have argued for years that you dont thneed expensive mics and dial bore gauge. I have Chinese measuring tools that are supposed to be made to ISO 9001 standards that i bought from Jegs ,years ago. I agree with you that it's a reference number. I work on snowmobile and motorcycle motors .
💯 correct
Another fantastic episode!!!
Tyvm
So interesting to learn about shaving the peaks off of the cross hatch! That was accomplished by just by using finer abrasive?
Correct
Both entertaining and informative,
Ty
Failing to check ring end gap after a rebore is a mistake that only has to happen once to a person to make you a believer! The excessive blowby that resulted from the parts store supplying standard rings to an oversize cylinder required complete removal and disassembly of a newly rebuilt engine to install the correct size piston rings! Check and recheck while its apart, mistakes happen! Been there!
Definitely
Hi I have bored lot of dirt track motors 40 and run 30 over pistons and 40 rings that lasted a long time.just what is your thoughts on that.that won a lot of races
No comment
You could have measured that mess with a feeler gauge. Thanks again for sharing
You bet
I like to use LS blocks that can just be honed from STD to clear a 2618 piston. That's a cherry block...
You need to have a show on MotorTrend.
Lol, probably not ready for that yet
Can you make a video on the proper way to use the gage
Will do
Curious how much it was decked. Seen cam correlation codes from decked too much on Toyota 2GRs
You would have to cut ALOT to affect it enough for a code
was just thinkin to myself just before you said it that i looked like a dingleball job
Absolutely
Awesome ... Thanks for the video
My pleasure
Measuring doesn't have to be Chinese rithmatic. I really enjoy all of your content. Thanks Cuz
Awesome, glad
Have you run into one of the Toyota 2zz engines with the ceramic bore? I wonder if those show much for taper or out of round over time. You can't bore or hone them.
Standard after repair? What happened to repair size pistons?
Do you use the Van Norman bore in the background? I have one for home rebuilds. Cool to see one in your shop
Definitely for small bores
do you just carry the blocks around the shop?
So does that thing need 0.010 overbore Pistons now?
. 02 is the first oversize, so that's what we did
Thanks for teaching me something today.
Any time!
My wife said it should be Stevie Wonder in Ray Charles' shop since Ray passed.
What type ring is being used? yeah those factory piston to bore clearances are small.were the
.5mm piston pretty uniform in size each piston? factory usually select fits.
It's a molly face Napier 2nd
Fine surface will work well with molly .I'm glad you found some for that engine.
You were saying that 0.005" clearance is too much for a cast piston even when it's warmed up, do you have any experience building demolition derby engines and what clearances they use to keep from stalling when overheated? Thanks
Yeah, but derby stuff isn't representative of tje real world
@@powellmachineinc I 100% agree, I was just curious if you had built/machined any for derby. I've run derby over the years and always looking for helping tips and tricks
@kylechrist no, we have done some cams but I haven't done any engines
as a reference is smart
Definitely
Ray Charles is giving us free entertainment. Well free to everyone but the customer I suppose.
Lol, definitely
Hit the road Jack, and don't hone no more no more no more, hit the road Jack, and don't you hone no more
Lol
Does your boring machine reference off the deck? And if so, are there ever surprises that lack of bore squareness to the deck means it doesn't clean up as expected to the pistons you already bought?
Absolutely, if we deck a block square we have seen issues as the factory is off, a Fe ford is the worst
You should trademark "Built By Braille Engineering"....😋
Lol
After watching so many of these Machine shop videos I have noticed a trend of really poor machine shop work coming to all these different shops. I know they are out there but I cant believe there are THAT many shops that are turning out work this bad and still able to stay in business. What I'm hoping is "I got it back from another shop and it was like this" is just code for "I watched sloppy mechanics and tried to dingle ball it myself, But I f'ed it away and now I don't want to admit it".
Facts
Ray Charles has been busy lately...
He gets around
Well done 👍
Thank you 👍
Do the cylinder edges need to be chamfered after such procedure - boring and honing?
Correct
I have 0-4" Chinese mikes from the 1980s. They are as precise as the Mitutoyos, Starretts, and Browne & Sharps I also use. I also have a Chinese dial bore gauge set from the same era. They're as good as any I've used. I've seen some real crap tools from China, too.
Absolutely
Its because what realy happens is the ring wear actualy make bore smaller in middle by ring metal melting to wall and wearing
and wearing on the top
So instead of line hone he grabs drill with ball hone and makes it all worse especially on top wear ring
you need like a brake cylinder type hone but bigger longer pads to level and straiten bore and usually making bore bigger
When your turning metal, for example, brake rotors. When you make deep cuts 5 thou+, is it better to slow rotation or increase rotation speed, We had on A/C motors and they never overheated @ 5 thou, since they bought new machines with brushless DC motors, I find it overheating often. I Need to cut deep for efficiency. Any tips?
Feed and rpm is relative,
I was always told that aluminum blocks needed to be machined using torque plates to keep the cylinders from going out of round. However, the people making these statements were not machinists. I was wondering what your opinion is on this.
I have the same kwickway boring machine, I haven't used it in years but sure did punch alot of holes with it, also have a Van Norman portable bar to, is that a 777 sitting on of your boring table ??
944s
That's what I have 944S , lighter and more manageable than the 777, extremely accurate and repeatable, that was the bar I started with, I made up a slick quick clamp to clamp on top of the block, came off main journal instead trying to hook it at bottom of cylinder, I've had that bar for 40 years !!
Ray Charles seems to be gettin around these days!
Yep, he's driving again
why is Cross hatch important? what fails when it is wrong? what does it achieve when it is right?
oil consumption and compression loss