Thank you! We had just replaced the right rear hub because it was making noise and before checking the code we assumed that was the one causing errors. And the ring was in tact for that one. When the code didn't reset, we checked the codes and found that the left was the issue. You showing how to check the ring, showed a missing piece. We are going to replace the left now and hopefully the codes will go away.
You are welcome, thanks for sharing your experience. Awesome job making it a DIY project, and having two new hubs is a good thing…even though you set out to only replace one. You will continue to benefit greatly by making your projects, DIY! 😁👍🧰
Valerie Barber Thanks for watching. That will do it. 👍 Many more helpful videos to come! Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together! 😀 Please subscribe to the channel and Ring your RUclips Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
This is good basic video in terms of explaining how the magnetic encoder on the hub can cause the error codes discussed. However, it's been my experience that removing a speed sensor from a hub assembly is never as easy as it's presented in the video. In many cases the plastic that encases the sensor gets stuck to the hub assembly and getting it out is much more difficult than shown on the video.
Thanks for watching & sharing your thoughts. It’s definitely not a bad idea to replace entire hub with a new hub that has the speed sensor built into it. Saves some heartache but cost a bit more money. Hope all is well. 😎👍🔧🔩
I read the c0050 code with my reader and it didn't tell me what wheel it is. Found out which wheel with your video. Thanks much. I don't know if it's my magnetic ring or the sensor yet but I'm goin' in. Thanks-
@@ralphwatten2426 We are honored to hear our video helped. We are definitely looking forward to hearing back from you as you work through your DIY project and pinpoint if it’s the sensor or magnetic ring. 👍🧰
don't have the car handy at the moment but I have BOTH codes and BOTH sensors have checked out. Didn't consider the mag ring until this video. When I get to it, I am sure to find both rings are compromised.. 2012 Cruze 1LT, 225,000mi
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Let us know what you find when you get to the vehicle. Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together! 😎👍🔧🔩
On a CTS4 you can take the rear axle nut off and push the axle in enough to see the tone ring. Mine had fallen off the bearing and was floating on the axle causing eratic signal.
Good morning, keep us posted on your project Richard. We are hanging out today at the DIY Raptor headquarters watching football answering questions for our fellow DIY’ers. Enjoy your upcoming week. 😎👍🔧🔩
FaReal WitIt Thanks for watching & you’re awesome too! Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together. Please subscribe to the channel and Ring your RUclips Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🛎
I got a Chevy Impala Limited, recently checked C0050-00 and C0050-0F. So because the traction control, brake assist and the stabilitrak light comes on I’m assuming it’s probably a bad wire but I’ll check this weekend
Bacha58 Thanks for watching & we are happy the video helped. We really enjoy making these helpful videos for our fellow DIY’ers. Many more helpful videos to come! 😀 Let us know if you have any questions. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your RUclips notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
Thanks for watching, try a quick battery reset first. Disconnect black negative cable from your battery and leave disconnected for a minimum of 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, resecure black cable to battery and start engine. If code returns, we can move onto the next troubleshooting items.
This is an example of why I swore never to buy another North American vehicle...but I foolishly did (lol). I now have to change a $175 bearing because of a 25¢ magnetic ring that looks like it was cut from a fridge magnet. On the upside the bearing is still solid and will doubtless make good landfill (sad face emoji).
So uhh... Im getting C0035-c0060 all at the same time except c0055. I already replaced the driver side cause it made a loud rattling noise. Do I have to replace every side or could there be something else causing all 4 sides to come on?
Horacio Thanks for watching, we recommend visiting your local AutoZone and having them erase your error codes and reset your computer. They will do this for 100% free. It’s possible that your error codes will not come back unless your other hubs and sensors are actually failed. Keep us posted. Please subscribe to the channel and Ring your RUclips Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again! 😎👍🔧🔩
Was there something else causing it? I got my back right replaced a month ago, now my back right and back left came on. I don’t wanna replace the back left if it’s something else entirely. Any idea?
Hopefully someone can help. My mechanic “repaired” both of these for my inspection last year but never cleared the codes. I ended up buying a tool to scan and clear codes myself since I started to do repairs myself. As soon as I cleared the abs codes my car would have low acceleration and would stall and sound like the gears were grinding. After I reached 10mph the lights came back on and the car started running fine again. Could there be a bigger problem or maybe the sensors were just never replaced?
Thanks for watching, how old is battery? If you let the car sit for longer than 24 hours, does the battery voltage remain above 12V? You can use a voltmeter to check.
chris allore Thanks for watching. We definitely got off easier than ones in the past we have worked on. More heat may be required. Do your best to apply heat equally around hub assembly without causing any damage to parts around it. Keep us posted. 😎👍🔧🔩
Thanks for watching & it’s not common for two to fault at same time. Have you recently driven in heavy rain or big puddles? Moisture within the hub can trip the sensors as well until they dry.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders yes we have had a bit of rain here lately. Been dry the last week. I just looked over the wiring yesterday, everything looks good. But I haven't touched the sensors or hubs yet. I just though it odd that both code at the same time and they come back with out even driving. Not sure where to start the diagnosis.
@@A.l.i.c.i.a.3 Thanks for the reply, both at the same time...unlikely...but not impossible. You may just need to replace the wheel hub sensors as opposed to the hubs themselves.
I replaced both sensors and that fixed it! Weird, that they both went at the same time. But it's fixed now. I just realised I am on my daughters RUclips account 😄
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. These error codes reference the sensors. Please keep us posted on your project, us DIY’ers need to stick together! 😎👍
Thanks for watching, it’s possible however unlikely. Airbag light indicates that the system has detected an issue with one or more airbags...making them unsafe.
How to replace C0050 Hub Assembly.
ruclips.net/video/hQmLLazTUes/видео.html
Thank you! We had just replaced the right rear hub because it was making noise and before checking the code we assumed that was the one causing errors. And the ring was in tact for that one. When the code didn't reset, we checked the codes and found that the left was the issue. You showing how to check the ring, showed a missing piece. We are going to replace the left now and hopefully the codes will go away.
You are welcome, thanks for sharing your experience. Awesome job making it a DIY project, and having two new hubs is a good thing…even though you set out to only replace one.
You will continue to benefit greatly by making your projects, DIY! 😁👍🧰
We were missing part of the magnetic ring. Thanks for the video
Valerie Barber
Thanks for watching. That will do it. 👍
Many more helpful videos to come! Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together! 😀
Please subscribe to the channel and Ring your RUclips Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
This is good basic video in terms of explaining how the magnetic encoder on the hub can cause the error codes discussed. However, it's been my experience that removing a speed sensor from a hub assembly is never as easy as it's presented in the video. In many cases the plastic that encases the sensor gets stuck to the hub assembly and getting it out is much more difficult than shown on the video.
Thanks for watching & sharing your thoughts. It’s definitely not a bad idea to replace entire hub with a new hub that has the speed sensor built into it.
Saves some heartache but cost a bit more money. Hope all is well.
😎👍🔧🔩
I read the c0050 code with my reader and it didn't tell me what wheel it is. Found out which wheel with your video. Thanks much. I don't know if it's my magnetic ring or the sensor yet but I'm goin' in. Thanks-
@@ralphwatten2426
We are honored to hear our video helped. We are definitely looking forward to hearing back from you as you work through your DIY project and pinpoint if it’s the sensor or magnetic ring. 👍🧰
Thank you very much you save me a Time and money I was about to replace my abs sensor god bless you buddy
You are very welcome, so happy to help. Hope all is well. 😎👍🔧🔩
don't have the car handy at the moment but I have BOTH codes and BOTH sensors have checked out. Didn't consider the mag ring until this video. When I get to it, I am sure to find both rings are compromised.. 2012 Cruze 1LT, 225,000mi
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. Let us know what you find when you get to the vehicle. Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together!
😎👍🔧🔩
On a CTS4 you can take the rear axle nut off and push the axle in enough to see the tone ring. Mine had fallen off the bearing and was floating on the axle causing eratic signal.
Thanks, I gonna change my mind now.
Very helpful, thank you.
We appreciate that & thanks for watching. Hope all is well.
😎👍🔧🔩
Same code but on 2011 Chevy Cruze LS. Bolt securing my sensor is a torx bolt with brake line inline with bolt.
Good morning, keep us posted on your project Richard.
We are hanging out today at the DIY Raptor headquarters watching football answering questions for our fellow DIY’ers.
Enjoy your upcoming week. 😎👍🔧🔩
Ur awesome. Thx
FaReal WitIt
Thanks for watching & you’re awesome too! Us fellow DIY’ers need to stick together. Please subscribe to the channel and Ring your RUclips Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🛎
I got a Chevy Impala Limited, recently checked C0050-00 and C0050-0F. So because the traction control, brake assist and the stabilitrak light comes on I’m assuming it’s probably a bad wire but I’ll check this weekend
What happen
Great video
Bacha58
Thanks for watching & we are happy the video helped. We really enjoy making these helpful videos for our fellow DIY’ers. Many more helpful videos to come! 😀
Let us know if you have any questions. Please subscribe to the channel and turn on your RUclips notification Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
I have all the wheel
Speed sensors code on. But there’s also a u0140-71 lost communication with bcm. Any thoughts?
Thanks for watching, try a quick battery reset first. Disconnect black negative cable from your battery and leave disconnected for a minimum of 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes, resecure black cable to battery and start engine. If code returns, we can move onto the next troubleshooting items.
Will this effect your brakes? Such as you will feel something like a pulse or feel something off? 2011 Chevy traverse
Thanks for watching & it’s possible. You can also hear humming, whistling, & random hissing. We hope the video helped.
😎👍🔧🔩
This is an example of why I swore never to buy another North American vehicle...but I foolishly did (lol).
I now have to change a $175 bearing because of a 25¢ magnetic ring that looks like it was cut from a fridge magnet. On the upside the bearing is still solid and will doubtless make good landfill (sad face emoji).
Thanks for watching & sharing this, we know the feeling. 😎👍
can u tell me code for the piece? buick regal petrol 2.0 4x4 220hp automatic ? is not relaly buick is opel in Europe
So uhh... Im getting C0035-c0060 all at the same time except c0055. I already replaced the driver side cause it made a loud rattling noise. Do I have to replace every side or could there be something else causing all 4 sides to come on?
Horacio
Thanks for watching, we recommend visiting your local AutoZone and having them erase your error codes and reset your computer. They will do this for 100% free.
It’s possible that your error codes will not come back unless your other hubs and sensors are actually failed. Keep us posted.
Please subscribe to the channel and Ring your RUclips Bell 🛎 that would be awesome thanks again!
😎👍🔧🔩
Was there something else causing it? I got my back right replaced a month ago, now my back right and back left came on. I don’t wanna replace the back left if it’s something else entirely. Any idea?
Hopefully someone can help. My mechanic “repaired” both of these for my inspection last year but never cleared the codes. I ended up buying a tool to scan and clear codes myself since I started to do repairs myself. As soon as I cleared the abs codes my car would have low acceleration and would stall and sound like the gears were grinding. After I reached 10mph the lights came back on and the car started running fine again. Could there be a bigger problem or maybe the sensors were just never replaced?
Thanks for watching, how old is battery? If you let the car sit for longer than 24 hours, does the battery voltage remain above 12V?
You can use a voltmeter to check.
Does this Make your steering wheel to move a lot
my hub is welded on seems like, a sludge hammer a slide hammer and heat did not work. how the hell did yours come off so easy? must be nice
chris allore
Thanks for watching. We definitely got off easier than ones in the past we have worked on. More heat may be required. Do your best to apply heat equally around hub assembly without causing any damage to parts around it.
Keep us posted. 😎👍🔧🔩
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders thank you for the help sir! Your video actually helped A LOT. I appreciate you!
chris allore
Very cool & we appreciate that.
😎👍🔧🔩
Is it common for 2 to go out at the same time. I have c0050 and c0045. I clear the codes and they come straight back with out even moving the car
Thanks for watching & it’s not common for two to fault at same time.
Have you recently driven in heavy rain or big puddles? Moisture within the hub can trip the sensors as well until they dry.
@@DIYwithMichaelBorders yes we have had a bit of rain here lately. Been dry the last week. I just looked over the wiring yesterday, everything looks good. But I haven't touched the sensors or hubs yet. I just though it odd that both code at the same time and they come back with out even driving. Not sure where to start the diagnosis.
@@A.l.i.c.i.a.3
Thanks for the reply, both at the same time...unlikely...but not impossible.
You may just need to replace the wheel hub sensors as opposed to the hubs themselves.
I replaced both sensors and that fixed it! Weird, that they both went at the same time. But it's fixed now.
I just realised I am on my daughters RUclips account 😄
@@A.l.i.c.i.a.3
Thanks for taking the time to share this update. Very odd & not common however that’s awesome it’s fixed.
Thanks again for sharing. 😎👍
I have a code C00045-0F and C00050-0F. Is that is speed sensor itself or different issue?
It's throwing that code on my 2014 Impala
@@allysonirwin7601
😎👍
Thanks for watching & welcome to the DIY Raptor Club. These error codes reference the sensors. Please keep us posted on your project, us DIY’ers need to stick together!
😎👍
Will this cause air bag light to come on ?
Thanks for watching, it’s possible however unlikely. Airbag light indicates that the system has detected an issue with one or more airbags...making them unsafe.