Wow. You need to make every how to video for general car fixes. Clear, concise, to the point information without the unnecessary jokes, ridiculous intros and drawn out blow hard egotism. Good job! This video fixed my problem!
After another look I realized it’s my AWD, not my ABS light with traction control(the two wavy skid marks) and check engine light that came on. I hit a deer Halloween front right corner the plastic shroud in wheel well is ripped out, I noticed last night that the wheel speed sensor was still wired but the clip that holds it to the control arm? pulled off but I don’t feel abrasion on harness. Same on driver side. Haven’t pulled wheels yet. Also, and this seems bizarre to me, it started running rough same time yesterday. Plugged it in and it read #3 cylinder misfire, wheel speed sensor and one other I forgot what it was. Hit a deer same corner last year and few months laterI had to replace a coil that was in back of engine so a lot of labor cost so they replaced all 3 since it was tore apart. Wondering where #3 is front or back. It was running very similar at the time. Had all body work done , and just had to do it all over again. No insurance this time. F’d up, I know. Living in State Forests in Minnesota 2 1/2 years now. It’s a 2013 Toyota Venza.
@@jamesholmberg3158 Bit of bad luck eh? See if you can locate the cylinder firing order diagram for that model. Might require a bit of investigative work but they illustrate which cylinder is which, like this for example: www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/es350-2007-2012/188347d1286544253-ignition-coil-malfunction-misfire-in-all-6-cylinders-cylindernum.jpg
I like the thorough inspection of each side. Noticing and zooming in on the wires being eroded due to pulling and rubbing while turning etc. Nice job. I would of expected once you made the decision to get electrical tape and band aid those wires, you would have,- 1) Turned off ignition. 2) Disconnect battery 3)Dried off and possibly removed some of the worn, unsticky tape. 3) Proceed to wrap damaged areas with fresh electrical tape. *HOWEVER, THAT WAS A GREAT VIDEO SHOWING EXAMPLES OF DIAGNOSING AND VISUALS ON INSPECTING. "Got a LIKE from me Sir" Thank you
So if wires were corroded . This is super temporary. You can't really fix with tape I am a electrician. I never ever fix wire I replace them . By law . Wire is wire .
One of the best videos on diagnosis. I subscribed and look forward to more. There's so many out there thatare confusing and some are hardly understandable. 5 Stars!
The traction lights in my experience are most common for the abs wheel speed sensors but the stabilitrac is usually the steering angle/wheel position sensor failing.
Another video actually says that it is the Steering Wheel position sensor and another one just said its the brake pedal position switch like all these fuggin backyard mechanics have a different story its annoying af
@@djscottymaxxthis is what bothers me the most, I don’t expect these electronic junks to run forever but at least guide me to the problem with the right error code 😂 this stabilitrak crap is so annoying.
Thanks for heading me in the right direction. Had my tires rotated on my 09 silverado at a well known and well used tire dealer today. When done, all my ABS, traction control and stabilitrac lights were on. Got it home and watched your video. Ultimately found they some how cut the wheel speed sensor wire on the left front. Was able to splice until I can get a new sensor/wire and put it on. Thanks for your help!
Sometimes you just need to be pointed in the right direction and you ask yourself similar questions like you did, "what if the mech cut my wire". Great job!
I have prius 2013. Recently developed some auto abs activation issue while turning left or right. Got checked by few mechanics but none of them looked at this place. Now after watching this video i have figured out the problem and saved money. Thanks brother.
Thanks! My ABS & "service stabilitrak" lights were both on in my 2012 Acadia. Did some googling and found your video. Showed my husband when he got home & the 1st tire he took off, there it was. Lumex? covering on wire had a big gouge in it. Replaced and all warning lights are off!
Seems like this is major issue with many Chevys. I had a 16 Malibu that for some reason the dealership could never fix. They just let replacing the OEM. I test drove a 17Implala today, as soon as I hit the highway, the Stability tracker light came on. I have PTSD at this point seriously scary issue to deal with.
Yes I agree. Chevy sedans are awful. I’ll never buy one ever again. My torque sensor went out which is near impossible to fix. Then now I have abs light traction control and brake light on.
It's funny, the making of this video was a complete accident. I had no premeditated plans to do it. Just occurred to me at the last minute to document what I was doing anyway. I guess I made the right choice! Thank you.
Gosh thanks so much for this great video! My mechanic wants to replace my passenger side rear wheel bearing for $500 bucks. I have a 2012 Buick Regal and I’ve recently had several things done on it for $1,600. A good friend said to take it to someone else for a second opinion. Maybe I only need a new sensor? If I need a new wheel bearing that’s fine too but I’d hate to spend the $500 unnecessarily. It only has 69K miles and it’s a really nice car. I’ve had it since it was a year old and hey its paid for! Thank you again you’ve given me a lot of very helpful information. 😀💗
Happy to help. Even if the wire is fine and the bearing does need to be replaced, you can reduce your cost by buying the bearing yourself and bringing it in to the mechanic. They can tell you which wheel is the problem using their electronic scan tool.
Thank you again Chris! He told me it’s my rear passenger wheel that needs a new wheel bearing. I’m going to take it to another mechanic just to get a second opinion. It’s fine if that’s my problem but $500 bucks is a LOT to spend if it’s not necessary!! I really appreciate you taking the time to make and then post your video. It helps a lot of us out in a very big way!! 💗
I'm currently going through the TCS light issue myself, it was not the brake switch so next step is to see if this video can help me figure this out, thanks for showing it.
Hi Chris, Thank you so much for this video. I took my 2000 Chevy Impala to a GM dealer and was told it would cost S700 to replace the wiring harness for the ABS and the Traction lights to turn off. Glad I did not have them perform that service after watching your diagnosis.
I jacked the car up 2003 lesabre on the driver side guess what the wiring coming out of the harness on the lower into the hub totally missing I’m hoping I can replace that sensor and it’ll work. I’m not sure about what’s going on the other end. Guess will clean that connection And hope for the best. On the passenger side it looks OK all looks good. I’ll disassemble those connections in clean them. Hopefully I can get my traction off light and ABS lights to go and the service stability system also to go off. Thanks so much Cc for the house to!! 👍👍
Thanks CC: An excellent vid. Clearly explained and excellent photography. I won't be doing any of my own repairs on a 2014 VW Passat (56,000 miles) but have a very good idea for where mechanic should start to look (or prevent him going on an expensive wild goose chase!) ABS/ESC Stability, Tyre Pressure Monitoring, Light bends and Stop/Start all on full-alarm. These all draw their signals from the Wheel Speed Sensors, so if one or more WSS is not functioning correctly, all four of these feature will light up.
Thank you for an excellent video. My problem started on an extremely rough gravel road. It's intermittent. Message goes off for a while while driving, and may come back on after turning, or backing out of a parking space. I suspected a sensor. Will check further. Thanks again.
If I remember correctly, this is a common problem on some cars, where the cable may be to long. I believe I read this on the "Buick " forum. Ty so much for the video
When you turn its widening the distance from the sensor to the ring then when you straighten out it shortens the distance and the ecm can pickup the signal again
I am having this issue w my 03 Mustang right now. My other half is a certified mechanic, but couldn't figure it out. Imagine his surprise when I ask him to lift the car and show him what I just learned hahahaha. Thank you so much for this.
I wiggled the wires by the connector for each wheel and made sure everything was connected. I was finally able to start my car back up. It wouldn’t start and I noticed for a brief moment a stabilitrak light came on but didn’t stay on and my steering was off and couldn’t power on. Crazy because I was about to call a tow truck to take it to a mechanic lol thank you
@@ChrisCamaro Right, I'm a subscriber as well. I hope you keep your Regal, As long as I keep mine. My next mode of transportation will b a Tennessee Walker, Lol. Text ya from jail, I'm standing my ground. Is it just me? Or has the big three ever built any vehicles that last longer than 90, 000 miles?
Nice! Man thank you so much for taking the time to explain this! My 2003 Impala has been driving me insane trying to figure out why the traction control light won't go off! I replaced both wire harnesses running to the bearings. But now I found the problem. Thank you!
Glad to hear it. It can be the bearing itself (where the wheel sensor is located) but at least those are accessible and easier to replace. It sucks when you have to replace a wire loom or try to figure out where it's got a flaw in it.
@@kiannagardner8238 well shortly after I posted my comment, the traction control light came on again. My scan tool showed all wheel bearings were working properly. So I disconnected the wire harness running to the abs module. I blew all the dirt off, and put dielectric grease on it, reconnected everything and the light hasn't come on since. But all this started when I got stuck in mud, I accelerated too quickly, and heard a weird noise coming from the front passenger side wheel bearing. The wire harness on the passenger side wrapped itself around the wheel bearing. So I had to rewire both front wheel bearings. I know this is a lot of confusing info, it's hard explaining what I had to do, I wish I could explain it better.
Thank you so much my man, it really worked on my Toyota wish 2014 model with a Valve Matic engine traction control light was on with the engine check llght. After removing the ABS, VSC and TCS sensor and cleaned it .....all the faults lights disappeared. Thanks bro you really no yr stuf.
Check your brake fluid level and pad wear first. A simple brake job was all that I needed to fix this issue on my 2012 impala. Apparently abs/traction control lights are activated if fluid level is low.
That's a very good point. The braking system has to be within a certain "nominal range" in order to work properly (thus to perform traction specific functions properly) so if your caliper pistons are too far out or you don't have enough fluid, this is sometimes enough to disable the traction system even without a hard malfunction.
Nice job on talking about this type of problem. However, you don't have any video of HOW you taped up the individual wires or the bundle, how you got access to these individual lines, how you used the contact spray / cleaner and THAT'S a big piece of the puzzle. Otherwise, this is just a series of photos of BEFORE and AFTER. Check out videos from other very very popular auto mechanics / repair RUclipsrs (like Chris Fix or Scotty K or many others that actually shows HOW they do the repair AND NOT just the Before and After pictures). But this YT video definitely helps in solving ABS problems (like what I have with a GMC truck) in going PART of the way to DIY fix them. Keep improving. Good work regardless.
Yep, I have very amateurish videographer skills. I think a simple tripod would fix a lot of my problems but most of the time I'm half way through a repair before I start thinking about the YT video. I'll work on it.
Had exactly all 3 of these messages/lights come on in my 2011 Impala just tonight. I'm glad you documented this, as other videos or mechanics might have suggested something else entirely.
Heh, I guess oil changes are perfectly good loss-leaders for mechanics these days and they don't want to be charging $20 to put a piece of electrical tape on a bad piece of wire. Still, if they don't have the time for that, somebody's gotta talk about it, else we're all into costly repairs we don't necessarily need (yet). Cheers.
@@babberdydabberdy3551 I did recently in fact. As it turns out it was my rack and pinion leaking power steering fluid. If your car is groaning when you turn the wheel at all, that might be it.
Thank you , was having this issue with my Cadillac CTS4 which was also causing AWD to shut down, was only intermiitent and more often when cold or wheels snow packed .....was a cable issue......
Thank you bro! Someone ran into my car, traction light cane on. Took it for repairs, they didn't even fix it. I go over 60 mph it comes on, car starts to shake as well smh.... I have a new 2020 Malibu.
Good video, though quick tip. You shouldn't let your wheels spin while the vehicle is jacked up unless you jack it up from under the lower ball joint or other wheel suspension component. Spinning the wheel with the suspension at maximum travel can damage your half axles or even rip/slip off the rubber boots on the half shaft. Basically your vehicle never turns the wheel at maximum suspension travel, unless you regularly take your car off of sweet jumps, so doing so while jacked up just creates an unnatural condition that your car never operates in. With an older car that could be the difference between getting another 100k miles out of your front or rear axles or putting everything back together and finding out that your axle is now suddenly clicking and popping. Oh and turning the steering wheel while doing this is just all that much worse. cheers.
It never occurred to me to consider that but you're absolutely right. Of course, all things mechanical are a function of time so I got away with it over the minute or so I was doing this diagnostic but your advice is definitely worth following. Thanks!
I had my 2007 mercury mountaineer worked on about a month ago replaced front passenger side wheel bearing hub assembly & just 3 days ago, abs sensor light came on. Still need to get the driver side bearing assembly replace and it’s still humming. Figured, bearing is going out also. Thanks for sharing this video👍
No problem. Yeah, when a problem occurs right after doing a repair in a related area it's a dead ringer that the repair may have instigated the issue. Sometimes the mechanic forgets to plug in the speed sensor harness or maybe they plug it in half-way or maybe they don't route the cable in a safe path where it won't get yanked on. Many possibilities. It's always good to have a look at the repair area first so you can potentially rule it out.
Fyi, I showed my mechanic homie, this video and he said that a better way to protect these wires is to replace the original deteriorated plastic tubing that protect the electrical wires and then wrap the new plastic tubing with electrical tape. Electrical tape, my mechanic said melts with heat. The plastic tubing is sold at the auto supply stores. Over all good depiction in this video, in my opinion.
A valid point. The electrical tape is a bit hack'ish but it's meant to be temporary... till you can figure out what you want to do about your car in the long term.
Just curious what was the purpose of starting the vehicle and putting a vehicle in drive and having a wheel turn to pivot the wheel hubs left and right what was the point please explain !¿?
The idea is to examine the wheels'range of motion and to see how the wheel speed sensor's wire loom moves along with it. If there is something wrong with the way the wire loom is routed, you may see it visually as you turn the wheel.
Would flat spots on a tire causing a mild shake around 45 mph cause these sensors to trip the stabilitrak? I drove about 6 miles fine and then bam I got hit with this issue and my engine reduced power and acted like it was misfiring.
In my case, not only turning but going over uneven road or gravel did cause the problem so I would think yes. Any sort of imbalance in your drivetrain will have a resonant frequency which will amplify the effect at a certain speed. If 45 is your car's resonant frequency it might be enough to trip the ABS, if there's a wiring/sensor problem already.
Need to replace mine on my 05 Scion thanks for the info it will be of great help to me getting rid of these lights,thank you Sir. Looks like snow on the ground , I now live in Florida but I'm from Illinois and I miss the cold weather seems as though it's always a 100 degrees here. Stay tough and get er done.
Did you experience and binding with the brake or clicking just before lights turned on? My abs and TCS lights turn on after making a turn intermittently and noise from brake happens on drivers side front. Sometimes doesn't happen for weeks and usually when wet out. Gotta be a short, I'm thinking.
Definitely. Happens to my MC. A little slush gets kicked up by the tires and onto the wire loom, the water wicks into the insulation and shorts the wires out a bit. The lights come on and you get a bunch of intermittent shuddering from the brakes. Bumps and turns exacerbate the problem. I'd inspect the wires for breaks in the insulation and replace accordingly.
Hello I have a 2015 Silverado and I’ve been having intermittent abs and traction control lights going on my dash. They haven’t stayed on but today they did and now my truck won’t crank, click or start. For this I think it’s wiring issue, if I hit bumps the right way a light will come on the dash and disappear. Scanned and it says there’s an issue with the left front wheel hub. Could a bad sensor cause a vehicle not to start ? Any help would be great. Thanks.
Tried everything. Put in a new throttle body one evening then did relearn process, next morning codes were gone. No more ABS or Stabilitrak or check engine light. Check your carbon deposit buildup.
Well explained. Exposed wiring and connectors cannot stay young forever. As the joints get older, pharmacists sell expensive drugs. Nice to address the real problem
I had a friend whose car would turn off in the rain... water bridges electrical gaps and causes them to short, basically depriving the car computer of a high enough voltage to read digital signals properly. Usually indicates a wire has lost its insulation somewhere and is shorting on a nearby wire when water wicks between the 2 wires.
I happen to know where the water is getting in. Does your car get water on the floor of the passenger compartment? And do you have a camaro5 account? Long story short, my car used to shut off in the rain, took me weeks to find the problem. There were actually two problems, water entering from the windshield cowl on the passenger side (the base of the windshield where the windshield meets the body of the car) and also a faulty fuel pump. Once I changed my fuel pump, the car never shut off again, it's been fine for years now. And once I put a little sealant on the seams at the bottom of thewindshield, no more water in the car.
@@liamkneeson8866 No imagine if your car was in a flood and someone sold it to you with a clean title. Now that would be terrible. Used to happen a lot after Katrina
When it is working correctly, it can make the car misfire but that is intentional. Turning off fuel injectors is a means of traction control and it causes misfires. However if you are having misfires when the system is NOT active (during a skid), then that is not normal.
I got a 2018 GMC sierra 1500 I got the brake light on traction control, and ABS lights on. I replaced the wheel speed sensors, the wheel hubs are only a couple months old. I tried clearing the codes, but they keep coming back. The codes are C0035 & C0040 Any opinions and thoughts on the issue?
Thanks for the video, my parking brake broke and took that 1 of the sensors and I replaced it but I still have the lights on the - so now I'm gonna go around the vehicle and check the rest of the sensors, it's a 2008 Dodge Durango two wheel drive
Excellent video!!!👍 If there is a bad sensor wire on my truck that’s causing the skid light to flash and the chime sound… Will a bad sensor or sensor cable also cause the dashboard to have other multiple dashboard lights to light up like the Batt light, ABS light, all the dial controls to stop working for a few seconds then work again and the turn signals stop working??
Thanks for the great video.I have same problem in Caddillac escalade Esv 2016.In raining few lights are ON and the steering gets hard, ABS, Traction, etc. Do you think these are the same issues and fixed as you showed in the video?
This happened on my 2018 silverado around winter. Only when i turned left, then progressively more constant. Disables cruise control. Replaced obviously faulty wheel speed sensor with ACDelco match. Both lights now on for eternity. Have not asked a dealership. When the bad wire was not making contact with the coil spring, everything was normal. When i replaced the parts the truck was shut off with the lights on and the wire making contact. I wonder if i just never gave it the opportunity to reset. Ive unplugged the battery before.
I have the same problem, haven't had a check yet, my abs, traction, hill start and tyre pressure have all gone at the same time. I will update you when I'm done! I have a ford Cmax 2011 model.
My 2008 Saturn Aura 3.5 XE V6 is doing the exact same thing I noticed it comes on when turning hard fast at certain angles the all of a sudden I can feel the ride or handling change then boom the chime and the abs light and traction control somes I get a code for my bank 2 O2 sensor with it saying no activity heater resistance bad wiring I suspect
I have a question. I have these issues with a twist, I also get an error message on the dashboard, my fuel gauge drops to empty and sometimes the car won't start. So to clarify, I have the abs, traction control, alarm light plus everything I mentioned above all abruptly coming on at once. Then sometimes it goes back off for a while then back on.. 2006 Chevy Malibu LTZ
Usually when a bunch of lights (often including the TCS) come on at the same time, it's a more generalized computer/electrical problem. I've had this occur in my Camaro (I made a video on that) and in my Monte Carlo all the gauges will go haywire with DIC lights coming on while driving at random. I'm pretty sure it's the ECU freaking out because of an electrical fault, nothing to do with any of the individual lights that come on. Pretty hard to diagnose and you'll need an electronics specialist to nail it down.
My 2012 Chevy impala jerks or grinds when turning left or slowly accelerating and when it does, the traction control, ABS and stabilitrak turn on, would doing this fix that problem?
It depends on why you're having the issue. This method may help if the problem has to do with the condition of the wires between the car computer and the wheel hub. If the issue is the sensor itself, then the solution is to change the wheel hub.
I have a 2016 Buick Enclave and on the way home the 'traction control off' light and warning indicator message came on and the 'service stabilitrak' warning message came on. The car felt like it was surging every few seconds as i was driving, like it was trying to stabilize. I live about 12 miles away from the nearest auto parts store. Is it safe to drive to have codes checked? I need to determine exactly which part(s) to order. I hope this isn't too hard for a woman to fix. 🙃 Thanks in advance for your help
Scanning for codes is harmless to the car. Get them to check the "history" though because these intermittent electrical problems usually don't show when the car is stationary. But the history will be saved in the car's memory.
I had a guy replaced both speed sensor harnesses 2 years ago and it was fine. I recently had someone else do my loose hub on the driver side and since then the stabilitrac and brake assist light has been on. I popped both front tires off and neither of the wires are frayed although the white cover over one of the wires has been rubbed off or fell off. Any ideas? No visible damage to either sensor or even the wires without the protector over it.
Tough situation if you can't see the damage. It's possible for connections to "fatigue" over time causing micro-fractures. Not quite the same as metal fatigue in buildings or aircraft but it's a sort of failure from continually flexing something over and over again. Basically the fault may not be a result of something external but may have happened internally. You might be able to detect this with a multimeter set to resistance mode. Any weak or intermittent cable would have a much higher resistance between ends. But you'd have to disconnect all the harnesses to check this.
I have a 2015 impala that will have tha stabilitrack , traction and engine light on all at once then it will fix itself random do u have any suggestions on what i can do to fix that?
That's just the telltale sign that the system is in the midst of failing. Whether it's a wiring issue or a bad sensor, these things tend to fail gradually not all of a sudden. It's best to diagnose the problem when it's in this condition instead of waiting for it to fail entirely. At least when it's flaky like this, you can detect and localize it more easily with a scan tool or multimeter.
Had axles replaced abs light is on and traction contorl and it's causing my steering wheel light to xone on to and losing power steering woukd that be a sensor to had no issues tell changing the axles
Thanks I hope this fixes my problem 07 grand prix gxp with 94k just started when I would hit a bump then would go off now its always on it dissabled my power steering tcs abs and it keeps saying service stabilatrack on the hud
I'm having these probs service traction control and abs light and car is making noises like breaks are are bad but new pads are on and it roars like it's rotating and rubbing metal but not the rotors or pads look bad and the petal is starting to push back when the rotation noise comes it pushes back on the petal. Is this maybe a bearing to make noises like breaks are rubbing
If I'm understanding you right, that sounds like normal ABS behaviour. When the ABS activates, you should feel and hear noises and the pedal should push back.
Thanks, my issue is on a 2004 Chevy Avalanche and it makes the truck have (VERY) reduced engine speed. And you cant make the TC stay off. So my question is does that likely mean its the TC module? I read that costs around 900-1300$ for the part.
If you're experiencing a loss in power, I wonder if the computer has put the car into "limp mode". Not enough info to tell if it's related to the traction control in any way but limp mode sounds like what you're describing and is usually associated with an engine or transmission problem (check engine light may be on). If TC is responsible for the loss in power you should notice the car drives "jerky" because the TC is overriding the throttle to improve traction but this would be very apparent.
I have a 2008 GMC Acadia and both lights the traction control and stability track keep popping up will this work on my vehicle as well ? Also when I about to make a complete stop I get the traction control light and my truck breaks kinda stalls before I am able to get a complete stop ?
If the lights tend to come on during changes in your driving maneuvers (like starting or stopping, going over bumper or turning), then chances are it's an electrical problem because the movements in the car (more specifically the change in those movements) is shifting some wire in such a way that the signal becomes intermittent and this freaks out the computer. You can follow this video and see if the problem is at the hub but if it isn't it could be anywhere along the wire going back to your car's computer. It's hard to find this sort of thing yourself unless the car is up on a hoist so if you don't have the equipment or feel unsafe doing it, best to get a mechanic to check it. At least you can give him a head start by telling him you think it's a intermittent speed sensor wire going to one of the wheels and he can possibly (if the dash lights are on) confirm this with his scan tool or do a visual inspection with the car on a hoist. Otherwise, if you don't see the issue at the hub yourself you'd have to jack the car up on stands and slide under it with a creeper to do your own inspection.
I have a Ford fusion 2019 and I have those lights on even after switching the sensor, bearing. Do you have any idea what else can be switched to have this issue solved?
My traction control and ABS light came on during the Cold snap we had in the weather here in Florida. Every now and again it will go off, but whenever the two lights come on I am unable to put it in cruise control. I just got it out the shop because the speed sensor went out, so I know that's not the problem. Is it possible cold weather can throw a code?
Rain and snow are more likely to cause it. Temperature causes things to expand and contract and I wouldn't entirely rule it out and say no it can't cause it BUT it's unlikely. If the problem is electrical and the wiring is damaged or old, usually and high humidity or wetness in the faulty area will cause a soft short across the wires and disable the system. That's what it's doing right now on my monte carlo. Disables everything only in the rain or snow, never on a dry day. But it's not impossible that the cold is related so see if you can locate the damaged part of the wire between your wheels and the computer anyway.
My Cadillac ats 2014 2.5 is popping up with stabilitrack and traction control turns off and my car starts getting rough while changing gears and looses powers should I try this ?
Hi, I've got a 2014 audi A3 1.4 tfsi which pops out stabilization control faulty, hill hold assist unavailable and parking brake and it won't start, there is a crank but no start
My impala stibilitrack is on and the car is not starting and everything is locked..seems like the tires are locked the car won't move..do you know how to unlock it??
I purchased a 2011 Camaro ls with the RS package because it had been wrecked and I got a good deal on it. I had rode in it before it was wrecked because the person I bought it from is family and it drove great with no issues before the front end impact. I replaced the whole front end back to the fans. I opened the door today and decided to start it so it could run for a little bit and it was clicking like the batteries dead even though it’s not completely dead so I will charge it up tomorrow but what concerns me is I started getting the service stabilitrak light. The front end is up in the air on a jack that’s centered in the front. Before fixing it I had to move it several times with no power steering so I had to put strength into turning the wheel. Idk if that could had messed with the cable in this video or what. What’s your opinion on what is causing this and what would you check ? Could it be the battery going out ? Any of the new parts? The car being on a jack? It also says one of the rear tires are low all of a sudden . I’ve never dealt with this before .
I just purchased a 2010 Buick Lesabre that the abs light and a StabiliTrack warning comes on only when it’s raining. It happens fairly right away- like I hadn’t got 1/10 of a mile down the road in the rain before it came on. The previous owner said that they had taken it to the dealership but because the light always turns off when the engine gets turned off that the shop wasn’t able to find it even after multiple trips. Do you have an idea of where this is likely coming from?
Anything causally related to rain... is a red flag that you have a wire somewhere with the insulation worn off. As soon as water hits it, the water acts like an electrical bridge, causing the wires in the bundle to short circuit. When it's not raining, the air gap between the wires is enough to keep the signal clean. I bet if you lift the car up and have a look at the wire loom going from each wheel back to the ECU, you'll find a break in the insulation somewhere. Perhaps you can even turn the problem on and off with a dollar store spray bottle full of salt water. But for your own safety I don't recommend this level of diagnosis. I might do it because I'm a bit crazy but you'd need the car on and elevated while you spray salt water at your wire looms going back to the ECU. Better to have a mechanic put it on the hoist with a scanner connected for extra measure.
@@ChrisCamaro thanks so much! My dad has a lot more knowledge about cars than I do. He just changed the radiator in my Cadillac ATS so I’ll tell him what you said and have him look before I take it to the shop. I’d rather do a patch job than spend a bunch of money.
@@hamannlaura I get you. In that case, for your or his safety, make sure to use proper jack stands rather than the spare tire jack, put the e-brake on and have someone spot you while you inspect the wire loom. If you have a multimeter you can disconnect the wheel speed sensor and probe the wire going back to the computer. If you check in resistance mode, you may notice a difference between 1 of the wheels and the rest. For that matter, a scan tool capable of scanning the BCM can do this as well, but those are hard to come by if you're not a mechanic.
So I've had a 2010 Buick enclave for a few years I got it used my tire sensors have intermittently went in and out and I just have let it ride I've had one out for over a year and left rear and no stableink or abs but now intermittent everytime i drive
Do you suspect the wheel sensor rather than the wire loom? If that's the case you need to check that the resistance across the wheel sensor is correct. In my car it's 1.1kOhm. For you, you could check a good wheel and compare the suspected bad one.
in the meantime is there a way to turn off this traction control for a while?, I’ve known which mechinic screwed up which wheel ever since it happened. my 12 impala has become sOooo s2pid in its s2pid smRt(not) cR NginEring, that the s2pid-S smRt(not) traction control enginEring kEps coming back on BY ITS OWN SMRT S2PID-sLf!☹️
Actually my follow-up video to this one is all about how to disable the abs until you fix it. Just check the 2nd video in my channel on this topic and the answer is in there.
@@ChrisCamaro thNx, but I was going for the gold, to disable it WITHOUT disabeling my abs.. & more importantly I was 1drng the UsUL, how chevy could put a traction control off button, that just magically turns itself back on, an off switch that doesn’t work.. I was 1drng then, how gm/chevy NgNErEng could B so amAZngly dum✋😔
I didn't see anything to where you have to go in and clear the faults,like you do for a check engine light,just doing the repair will get rid of the light on the dash.Thanks for the video!
As far as I am aware, the fault will not persist once the problem is corrected. Even before I addressed the issue in my car, every time I started it, the car would be fine with no lights. The ECU was assuming the system was ok until it faults out. You should be ok just to fix the ABS without resetting the lights.
I have a 2006 Astra my ABS light came the ODB came up with 20 codes. It was found that the complete system, Module, punp, and all wheel sensors were faulty. After everything being replaced car was running well for 5 days. Then suddenly on the 5th day was driving home from work and going round a traffic island, when the ABS light came on. I had the mechanic do a diagnostic check on it and it came up showing no faults. Why is this and what is causing the light to come on?
The thing that makes the TCS system hard to diagnose is that it comes on intermittently while you're driving but by the time you're back home or at the mechanic, the problem isn't happening anymore and you can't see it on a scan
We are having rough idle and loss of power when service Stabilitrac and engine light comes on on our Chev Silv 09. Coil is fine, sparkplugs and wires are new, cylinders were bored out $800 cost. Was ok for day and 1/2 then same problem happened again. We need help!!!
Since you mentioned you bored out the cylinders, I have to wonder if the engine roughness is somehow related to that (since changing engine displacement also requires tuning) and not necessarily the Traction Control. That TCS may be a red herring.
@@justcuz9837 NP. Sometimes when aftermarket engine work is performed, 2 dozen cables need to be disconnected in order to access the inside of the engine block and when the mechanic reconnects everything there is a loose connection somewhere. Whatever isn't connected may be tripping the TCS but may also be more of a systemic issue affecting other systems, like the engine timing encoder pulses or something else that affects driveability. The cable harness that plugs into the car's computer has many wires going to many sensors. There's no real "right place to start looking" but there seems to be a correlation between your recent engine work and your computer freaking out a day and a half later. I might ask the mechanic who did the work to give it a look over for free if you can reproduce the symptoms for him.
This is BEC. To clarify, all the symptoms took place before the machanic work took place. It's strange to me that the symptoms went away (after machining the headers) for the day and a half. During that day and a half we drove the truck all over town. Then It displayed the same exact symptoms again. After reading the comments btwn you and my wife I felt maybe there was a little information lost in translation. I get the feeling, a sensor has something to do with this. I watched a video on the steering wheel position censor and am wondering what your thoughts are on this? I am no machanic, I'll be the first to admit. But after 25 plus years of car trouble you get a feel for things😅. Thanks for your help. It is deeply appreciated.
@@justcuz9837 Oh yeah, headers would not affect anything probably. I mean basically the TCS system is a form of Torque Management in general, which there is a huge section of code for in the computer. It overrides user inputs to the car and throttles back the power. How this algorithm is implemented varies with the car so I have no idea about specific behaviour for a given car but TCS can cause driveability issues if it activates out of turn. The era of car I'm familiar with only depend on the wheel sensors as inputs for this so you're talking about a total of 8 wires on the car going back to the ECU that could be the culprit. However newer cars might incorporate more sensors so that's a bit out of my league to comment on.
I replaced my ABS module. Because I thought it was bad. It was not, but now my A. BS light is on and I have to pump my brakes up to get break. What can I do to get it connected to my vehicle
Hey have you ever had service variable steering Traction control service stabilitrak and service abs all on? My 06 gp gxp is giving me issues!! Trying to see what it could be hub bearings or wire harness?
2004 Buick LeSabre Custom.. Same light issue. I’m on a budget, I’m not rich to afford professional repairs.. Driver side rear wheel AIR SHOCK was replaced and now I need to check. I don’t have a shop, or lift. Driver side rear wheel was stuck and I had to kick the wheel off. Where is THE HEATER CORE on the 2004 Buick LeSabre? I’m getting THERMOSTAT fail code after I replaced the thermostat and temp sensor. I got a basic OBD 2 scan tool.
Abs,stabilitrak off & service break assist& stability control messages on my 08 Cadillac Cts all started at the same time & has been on for 2 days now,they all started at once while driving,didn't notice anything unusual before they popped up. Car drives fine except feels like brakes are a little harder...help!any ideas of what this is?
There are basically 3 things you can do. To "live with the problem", you can follow the link at the bottom of this video which tells you how to de-activate the system so it doesn't cause you problems while you're driving. To actually diagnose and fix the problem you either have to inspect the wire looms going from each wheel back to the computer, as described in this video but that's hard for most people to do without a lift, or you can go to any mechanic and ask him to scan the car for codes to tell you which wheel (or other subsystem) is causing the fault. Off the shelf scanners you can buy won't detect this because it's a "body" code, not an "engine" code. So unless you are mechanically inclined you have to get a mechanic to scan the car. Some good mechanics will do this for free because it's easy and quick. Others might charge up to 50 bucks to do it. You could make a few phone calls to see if you can get it done for free. This will vastly simplify the diagnosis and ultimately be cheaper and faster for you to deal with it.
I have a 2007 Jeep Liberty all my lights kicked on ESP bas abs and traction control. And it drives fine when they're on but when they're off sometimes when I go to hit the gas it feels like something jamming up or the brakes are engaging. And then when I let go the gas and Coast it's fine and then all the lights will kick back on and it drives fine any ideas?
Kind of an odd set of symptoms but it could still be a simple discontinuity in the sensor lines. You could try inspecting and servicing the connectors and surrounding wires at the wheels but if it's not that you have the trace the wire looms all the way back to the car's computer and that's tricky to do without a mechanic's lift.
Most hardware stores sell something equivalent to "electrical contact spray", which is a type of solvent the that gets rid of the corrosion that typically forms on conductive materials like copper. It has lubricating qualities too and if you spray some of that in the connector and work the connector on and off half a dozen times, you'll have a good solid connection. Then if you still have issues you'll know it's somewhere else. You can use a multimeter in continuity mode to check both conductors to see if they are shorting as well.
Can this cause your steering wheel to get hard ? I have a Sierra denali and all the lights turned on for abs, stabilitrak, trailer break. Mechanic told me 2000 to fix but it doesn’t sound right to me
I really highly doubt it. If the steering wheel is hard to turn, that's got something to do with the rack and pinion and/or the steering assist (power steering pump and related systems) with a lower likelihood of it being something like the CV joints or something else connected to the steering system. The steering wheel is mechanically coupled to the wheels so any number of mechanical problems could increase steering efforts.
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Wow. You need to make every how to video for general car fixes. Clear, concise, to the point information without the unnecessary jokes, ridiculous intros and drawn out blow hard egotism. Good job! This video fixed my problem!
Just want to thank you for taking the time to put this video together and uploading it. If I fix it myself, I'll come back and thank you again.
Time is valuable so if I can save some for you then it was worth the effort!
After another look I realized it’s my AWD, not my ABS light with traction control(the two wavy skid marks) and check engine light that came on. I hit a deer Halloween front right corner the plastic shroud in wheel well is ripped out, I noticed last night that the wheel speed sensor was still wired but the clip that holds it to the control arm? pulled off but I don’t feel abrasion on harness. Same on driver side. Haven’t pulled wheels yet. Also, and this seems bizarre to me, it started running rough same time yesterday. Plugged it in and it read #3 cylinder misfire, wheel speed sensor and one other I forgot what it was. Hit a deer same corner last year and few months laterI had to replace a coil that was in back of engine so a lot of labor cost so they replaced all 3 since it was tore apart. Wondering where #3 is front or back. It was running very similar at the time. Had all body work done , and just had to do it all over again. No insurance this time. F’d up, I know. Living in State Forests in Minnesota 2 1/2 years now. It’s a 2013 Toyota Venza.
@@jamesholmberg3158 Bit of bad luck eh? See if you can locate the cylinder firing order diagram for that model. Might require a bit of investigative work but they illustrate which cylinder is which, like this for example: www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/es350-2007-2012/188347d1286544253-ignition-coil-malfunction-misfire-in-all-6-cylinders-cylindernum.jpg
I like the thorough inspection of each side. Noticing and zooming in on the wires being eroded due to pulling and rubbing while turning etc. Nice job. I would of expected once you made the decision to get electrical tape and band aid those wires, you would have,- 1) Turned off ignition. 2) Disconnect battery 3)Dried off and possibly removed some of the worn, unsticky tape. 3) Proceed to wrap damaged areas with fresh electrical tape. *HOWEVER, THAT WAS A GREAT VIDEO SHOWING EXAMPLES OF DIAGNOSING AND VISUALS ON INSPECTING. "Got a LIKE from me Sir" Thank you
I appreciate any feedback that I can use to make my next videos better.
So if wires were corroded . This is super temporary. You can't really fix with tape
I am a electrician. I never ever fix wire I replace them . By law . Wire is wire .
@@waynedickens4031and wire breaks
One of the best videos on diagnosis. I subscribed and look forward to more. There's so many out there thatare confusing and some are hardly understandable. 5 Stars!
Bro you saved my life 😂 my dad tried to tell me it was the gear box thanks man
The traction lights in my experience are most common for the abs wheel speed sensors but the stabilitrac is usually the steering angle/wheel position sensor failing.
Another video actually says that it is the Steering Wheel position sensor and another one just said its the brake pedal position switch like all these fuggin backyard mechanics have a different story its annoying af
@@djscottymaxxthis is what bothers me the most, I don’t expect these electronic junks to run forever but at least guide me to the problem with the right error code 😂 this stabilitrak crap is so annoying.
Thanks for heading me in the right direction. Had my tires rotated on my 09 silverado at a well known and well used tire dealer today. When done, all my ABS, traction control and stabilitrac lights were on. Got it home and watched your video. Ultimately found they some how cut the wheel speed sensor wire on the left front. Was able to splice until I can get a new sensor/wire and put it on. Thanks for your help!
Sometimes you just need to be pointed in the right direction and you ask yourself similar questions like you did, "what if the mech cut my wire". Great job!
They cut it? Doesnt that mean they're at fault?
@@ndo533 Right, ummm no, we just don't know how that could have happened. ( They were MAYBE) Hoping for more of your business.
Man, Karma take me away
Coincidence? I just had my tires rotated at a well known shop and next day Stabilitrack light comes on.
I have a 09 silverado I been having issues the car is hesitant when I drive Trac control won't turn off
Good shit my guy , 20+ year master mechanic , been building cars since was knee high to a Flys eye.. simple smooth direct delivery my friend.
I have prius 2013. Recently developed some auto abs activation issue while turning left or right. Got checked by few mechanics but none of them looked at this place. Now after watching this video i have figured out the problem and saved money.
Thanks brother.
There's $200 worth of beer and cigars you didn't have before eh?
Thanks! My ABS & "service stabilitrak" lights were both on in my 2012 Acadia. Did some googling and found your video. Showed my husband when he got home & the 1st tire he took off, there it was. Lumex? covering on wire had a big gouge in it. Replaced and all warning lights are off!
That's great news! Happy to be of help.
Of course it’s always snowing and cold when problems happen.
😂😂😂😂
literallyyyyy
Never fails!!!
No its not. You need fact checked
Mine started going crazy when it started raining, like bro really
Seems like this is major issue with many Chevys. I had a 16 Malibu that for some reason the dealership could never fix. They just let replacing the OEM. I test drove a 17Implala today, as soon as I hit the highway, the Stability tracker light came on. I have PTSD at this point seriously scary issue to deal with.
Yes I agree. Chevy sedans are awful. I’ll never buy one ever again. My torque sensor went out which is near impossible to fix. Then now I have abs light traction control and brake light on.
Along with checking the speed Sensors. Check the wheel bearings on all 4 tires. Had a faulty one on mine. Replaced it and the lights went away.
the audio is very clear and the explanation is easy to understand thank you very much for the information
Glad it was helpful!
Forget shade tree! In the driveway with snow on the ground! Great job, Chris.
What I can with what I got ;)
Ty so much! Out of all the videos this is the ONLY ONE THAT HAS HELPED ME AND ANSWERED ALL MY QUESTIONS! TY again
It's funny, the making of this video was a complete accident. I had no premeditated plans to do it. Just occurred to me at the last minute to document what I was doing anyway. I guess I made the right choice! Thank you.
Me too. Diagnosed my problem spot on!.
gOOD MAN cHRIS, TY.
Gosh thanks so much for this great video! My mechanic wants to replace my passenger side rear wheel bearing for $500 bucks. I have a 2012 Buick Regal and I’ve recently had several things done on it for $1,600. A good friend said to take it to someone else for a second opinion. Maybe I only need a new sensor? If I need a new wheel bearing that’s fine too but I’d hate to spend the $500 unnecessarily. It only has 69K miles and it’s a really nice car. I’ve had it since it was a year old and hey its paid for! Thank you again you’ve given me a lot of very helpful information. 😀💗
Happy to help. Even if the wire is fine and the bearing does need to be replaced, you can reduce your cost by buying the bearing yourself and bringing it in to the mechanic. They can tell you which wheel is the problem using their electronic scan tool.
Thank you again Chris! He told me it’s my rear passenger wheel that needs a new wheel bearing. I’m going to take it to another mechanic just to get a second opinion. It’s fine if that’s my problem but $500 bucks is a LOT to spend if it’s not necessary!! I really appreciate you taking the time to make and then post your video. It helps a lot of us out in a very big way!! 💗
I'm currently going through the TCS light issue myself, it was not the brake switch so next step is to see if this video can help me figure this out, thanks for showing it.
Good luck!
I just started having this issue driving last night.My car was breaking on its own on the highway! Thank god far a warranty right!
Yeah warranty helps if you still have it.!
Hi Chris, Thank you so much for this video. I took my 2000 Chevy Impala to a GM dealer and was told it would cost S700 to replace the wiring harness for the ABS and the Traction lights to turn off. Glad I did not have them perform that service after watching your diagnosis.
700 bucks for a wiring harness??? They really are "stealerships" aren't they
@@ChrisCamaro holy shit that's one of the biggest rip offs I've ever heard of
I jacked the car up 2003 lesabre on the driver side guess what the wiring coming out of the harness on the lower into the hub totally missing I’m hoping I can replace that sensor and it’ll work. I’m not sure about what’s going on the other end. Guess will clean that connection And hope for the best. On the passenger side it looks OK all looks good. I’ll disassemble those connections in clean them. Hopefully I can get my traction off light and ABS lights to go and the service stability system also to go off. Thanks so much Cc for the house to!! 👍👍
Thanks CC: An excellent vid. Clearly explained and excellent photography. I won't be doing any of my own repairs on a 2014 VW Passat (56,000 miles) but have a very good idea for where mechanic should start to look (or prevent him going on an expensive wild goose chase!) ABS/ESC Stability, Tyre Pressure Monitoring, Light bends and Stop/Start all on full-alarm. These all draw their signals from the Wheel Speed Sensors, so if one or more WSS is not functioning correctly, all four of these feature will light up.
That's why I'm here. Not that I can fix it myself but that I am aware when I take this beautiful beast in on Monday. Thanx
Thank you for an excellent video. My problem started on an extremely rough gravel road. It's intermittent. Message goes off for a while while driving, and may come back on after turning, or backing out of a parking space. I suspected a sensor. Will check further. Thanks again.
My car did the same things. Come to find out my wires were broke from the wheel turning back and forth. Got caught and broke.
If I remember correctly, this is a common problem on some cars, where the cable may be to long. I believe I read this on the "Buick " forum. Ty so much for the video
any update, mines doing the same,
Replace the hub
When you turn its widening the distance from the sensor to the ring then when you straighten out it shortens the distance and the ecm can pickup the signal again
I am having this issue w my 03 Mustang right now. My other half is a certified mechanic, but couldn't figure it out. Imagine his surprise when I ask him to lift the car and show him what I just learned hahahaha. Thank you so much for this.
I wiggled the wires by the connector for each wheel and made sure everything was connected. I was finally able to start my car back up. It wouldn’t start and I noticed for a brief moment a stabilitrak light came on but didn’t stay on and my steering was off and couldn’t power on. Crazy because I was about to call a tow truck to take it to a mechanic lol thank you
Glad things worked out in the end!
Very good vid Chris! Thank you SO much for taking the time and effort to post it. You just saved me a pile of money.
You have a new subscriber buddy.
It means a lot to me when my lessons learned reach others and help them avoid the toil I went through. Thanks a lot man.
@@ChrisCamaro Right, I'm a subscriber as well. I hope you keep your Regal, As long as I keep mine.
My next mode of transportation will b a Tennessee Walker, Lol.
Text ya from jail, I'm standing my ground.
Is it just me? Or has the big three ever built any vehicles that last longer than 90, 000 miles?
Nice! Man thank you so much for taking the time to explain this! My 2003 Impala has been driving me insane trying to figure out why the traction control light won't go off! I replaced both wire harnesses running to the bearings. But now I found the problem. Thank you!
Glad to hear it. It can be the bearing itself (where the wheel sensor is located) but at least those are accessible and easier to replace. It sucks when you have to replace a wire loom or try to figure out where it's got a flaw in it.
Did your car have trouble with accelerating also when the light appeared?
@@kiannagardner8238 well shortly after I posted my comment, the traction control light came on again. My scan tool showed all wheel bearings were working properly. So I disconnected the wire harness running to the abs module. I blew all the dirt off, and put dielectric grease on it, reconnected everything and the light hasn't come on since. But all this started when I got stuck in mud, I accelerated too quickly, and heard a weird noise coming from the front passenger side wheel bearing. The wire harness on the passenger side wrapped itself around the wheel bearing. So I had to rewire both front wheel bearings. I know this is a lot of confusing info, it's hard explaining what I had to do, I wish I could explain it better.
How much $$$$ per wheel sensor? My car also doesnt pass smog due to oxygen sensors??? GM CARS
Thank you so much my man, it really worked on my Toyota wish 2014 model with a Valve Matic engine traction control light was on with the engine check llght. After removing the ABS, VSC and TCS sensor and cleaned it .....all the faults lights disappeared. Thanks bro you really no yr stuf.
Check your brake fluid level and pad wear first. A simple brake job was all that I needed to fix this issue on my 2012 impala. Apparently abs/traction control lights are activated if fluid level is low.
That's a very good point. The braking system has to be within a certain "nominal range" in order to work properly (thus to perform traction specific functions properly) so if your caliper pistons are too far out or you don't have enough fluid, this is sometimes enough to disable the traction system even without a hard malfunction.
The best troubleshoot I've gotten so far, I'll check it out.
Nice job on talking about this type of problem. However, you don't have any video of HOW you taped up the individual wires or the bundle, how you got access to these individual lines, how you used the contact spray / cleaner and THAT'S a big piece of the puzzle. Otherwise, this is just a series of photos of BEFORE and AFTER. Check out videos from other very very popular auto mechanics / repair RUclipsrs (like Chris Fix or Scotty K or many others that actually shows HOW they do the repair AND NOT just the Before and After pictures). But this YT video definitely helps in solving ABS problems (like what I have with a GMC truck) in going PART of the way to DIY fix them. Keep improving. Good work regardless.
Yep, I have very amateurish videographer skills. I think a simple tripod would fix a lot of my problems but most of the time I'm half way through a repair before I start thinking about the YT video. I'll work on it.
Had exactly all 3 of these messages/lights come on in my 2011 Impala just tonight. I'm glad you documented this, as other videos or mechanics might have suggested something else entirely.
Heh, I guess oil changes are perfectly good loss-leaders for mechanics these days and they don't want to be charging $20 to put a piece of electrical tape on a bad piece of wire. Still, if they don't have the time for that, somebody's gotta talk about it, else we're all into costly repairs we don't necessarily need (yet). Cheers.
So did you fix the issue? I have an 11 impala with the exact same lights on
@@babberdydabberdy3551 I did recently in fact. As it turns out it was my rack and pinion leaking power steering fluid. If your car is groaning when you turn the wheel at all, that might be it.
@@Conqueered Oohh dang nah mines not doing that. I get a grinding noise when it’s shifting gears sometimes
I have an 09 buick lucerne and this just started happening to me while making left hand turn. I will keep you posted after I check it out. Thank you.
Please do!
Wya
Any update ?
Thank you , was having this issue with my Cadillac CTS4 which was also causing AWD to shut down, was only intermiitent and more often when cold or wheels snow packed .....was a cable issue......
Nice job.
For the permanent fix you would want it to not come in contact with the lower control arm at all. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you bro! Someone ran into my car, traction light cane on. Took it for repairs, they didn't even fix it. I go over 60 mph it comes on, car starts to shake as well smh.... I have a new 2020 Malibu.
Check the tire balancing, could be a bent rim. Rotate the tires to see if it still vibrates.
May also be a missing or broken motor or transmission mount, but low chance
Imbalanced tires will destroy the wheel sensors quickly
Good video, though quick tip. You shouldn't let your wheels spin while the vehicle is jacked up unless you jack it up from under the lower ball joint or other wheel suspension component. Spinning the wheel with the suspension at maximum travel can damage your half axles or even rip/slip off the rubber boots on the half shaft. Basically your vehicle never turns the wheel at maximum suspension travel, unless you regularly take your car off of sweet jumps, so doing so while jacked up just creates an unnatural condition that your car never operates in. With an older car that could be the difference between getting another 100k miles out of your front or rear axles or putting everything back together and finding out that your axle is now suddenly clicking and popping. Oh and turning the steering wheel while doing this is just all that much worse. cheers.
It never occurred to me to consider that but you're absolutely right. Of course, all things mechanical are a function of time so I got away with it over the minute or so I was doing this diagnostic but your advice is definitely worth following. Thanks!
@@ChrisCamaro you did good sir.
I had my 2007 mercury mountaineer worked on about a month ago replaced front passenger side wheel bearing hub assembly & just 3 days ago, abs sensor light came on. Still need to get the driver side bearing assembly replace and it’s still humming. Figured, bearing is going out also. Thanks for sharing this video👍
No problem. Yeah, when a problem occurs right after doing a repair in a related area it's a dead ringer that the repair may have instigated the issue. Sometimes the mechanic forgets to plug in the speed sensor harness or maybe they plug it in half-way or maybe they don't route the cable in a safe path where it won't get yanked on. Many possibilities. It's always good to have a look at the repair area first so you can potentially rule it out.
@@ChrisCamaro sounds good brother 👍 have a great weekends and thank you🙏
Fyi, I showed my mechanic homie, this video and he said that a better way to protect these wires is to replace the original deteriorated plastic tubing that protect the electrical wires and then wrap the new plastic tubing with electrical tape. Electrical tape, my mechanic said melts with heat. The plastic tubing is sold at the auto supply stores. Over all good depiction in this video, in my opinion.
A valid point. The electrical tape is a bit hack'ish but it's meant to be temporary... till you can figure out what you want to do about your car in the long term.
Just curious what was the purpose of starting the vehicle and putting a vehicle in drive and having a wheel turn to pivot the wheel hubs left and right what was the point please explain !¿?
To make sure the wire didn’t get super tight or twist or bind
The idea is to examine the wheels'range of motion and to see how the wheel speed sensor's wire loom moves along with it. If there is something wrong with the way the wire loom is routed, you may see it visually as you turn the wheel.
Would flat spots on a tire causing a mild shake around 45 mph cause these sensors to trip the stabilitrak? I drove about 6 miles fine and then bam I got hit with this issue and my engine reduced power and acted like it was misfiring.
In my case, not only turning but going over uneven road or gravel did cause the problem so I would think yes. Any sort of imbalance in your drivetrain will have a resonant frequency which will amplify the effect at a certain speed. If 45 is your car's resonant frequency it might be enough to trip the ABS, if there's a wiring/sensor problem already.
You're a natural at teaching. Great video.
Thanks! I'll try to leverage that talent as best I can in future videos
Need to replace mine on my 05 Scion thanks for the info it will be of great help to me getting rid of these lights,thank you Sir. Looks like snow on the ground , I now live in Florida but I'm from Illinois and I miss the cold weather seems as though it's always a 100 degrees here. Stay tough and get er done.
Damn straight :D
This was great information I needed to help diagnose my issues. It may not be the solution to my particular problem but valuable nonetheless.
Did you experience and binding with the brake or clicking just before lights turned on? My abs and TCS lights turn on after making a turn intermittently and noise from brake happens on drivers side front. Sometimes doesn't happen for weeks and usually when wet out. Gotta be a short, I'm thinking.
Definitely. Happens to my MC. A little slush gets kicked up by the tires and onto the wire loom, the water wicks into the insulation and shorts the wires out a bit. The lights come on and you get a bunch of intermittent shuddering from the brakes. Bumps and turns exacerbate the problem. I'd inspect the wires for breaks in the insulation and replace accordingly.
Hello I have a 2015 Silverado and I’ve been having intermittent abs and traction control lights going on my dash. They haven’t stayed on but today they did and now my truck won’t crank, click or start. For this I think it’s wiring issue, if I hit bumps the right way a light will come on the dash and disappear. Scanned and it says there’s an issue with the left front wheel hub. Could a bad sensor cause a vehicle not to start ? Any help would be great. Thanks.
Tried everything. Put in a new throttle body one evening then did relearn process, next morning codes were gone. No more ABS or Stabilitrak or check engine light. Check your carbon deposit buildup.
Well explained. Exposed wiring and connectors cannot stay young forever. As the joints get older, pharmacists sell expensive drugs. Nice to address the real problem
My problem comes after a rainy day always ,ima check those sensors and connections props to your video bro and taking the time to do it😁👍
I had a friend whose car would turn off in the rain... water bridges electrical gaps and causes them to short, basically depriving the car computer of a high enough voltage to read digital signals properly. Usually indicates a wire has lost its insulation somewhere and is shorting on a nearby wire when water wicks between the 2 wires.
I happen to know where the water is getting in. Does your car get water on the floor of the passenger compartment? And do you have a camaro5 account? Long story short, my car used to shut off in the rain, took me weeks to find the problem. There were actually two problems, water entering from the windshield cowl on the passenger side (the base of the windshield where the windshield meets the body of the car) and also a faulty fuel pump. Once I changed my fuel pump, the car never shut off again, it's been fine for years now. And once I put a little sealant on the seams at the bottom of thewindshield, no more water in the car.
@@liamkneeson8866 No imagine if your car was in a flood and someone sold it to you with a clean title. Now that would be terrible. Used to happen a lot after Katrina
Does this makes your car mis fire?
When it is working correctly, it can make the car misfire but that is intentional. Turning off fuel injectors is a means of traction control and it causes misfires. However if you are having misfires when the system is NOT active (during a skid), then that is not normal.
@@ChrisCamaro my car start to misfire when it comes on.
@@ELZI_the_Light The car is supposed to do that. It's normal.
@@ChrisCamaro Thank you for your time and knowledge. Sir. Much Peace and Love.
No
I got a 2018 GMC sierra 1500 I got the brake light on traction control, and ABS lights on.
I replaced the wheel speed sensors, the wheel hubs are only a couple months old. I tried clearing the codes, but they keep coming back. The codes are C0035 & C0040
Any opinions and thoughts on the issue?
Thanks for the video, my parking brake broke and took that 1 of the sensors and I replaced it but I still have the lights on the - so now I'm gonna go around the vehicle and check the rest of the sensors, it's a 2008 Dodge Durango two wheel drive
Good stuff. Just remember that 2wd and 4wd alike rely on all 4 wheel speed sensors for the TCS
I have a 2012 cadillac cts awd 3.0 liter and my stabilitrak sensor alarm constantly goes off and on, do you think this will help my issue as well?
Excellent video!!!👍
If there is a bad sensor wire on my truck that’s causing the skid light to flash and the chime sound…
Will a bad sensor or sensor cable also cause the dashboard to have other multiple dashboard lights to light up like the Batt light, ABS light, all the dial controls to stop working for a few seconds then work again and the turn signals stop working??
No that sounds like more of an electrical connection problem in general. My MC does that actually. I'm looking into the wiring.
Thanks for the great video.I have same problem in Caddillac escalade Esv 2016.In raining few lights are ON and the steering gets hard, ABS, Traction, etc. Do you think these are the same issues and fixed as you showed in the video?
Did you solve this?
@@tylermcintyre8503
I got mine right after changing the shocks.
Well turns out the sensor had gotten disconnected
This happened on my 2018 silverado around winter. Only when i turned left, then progressively more constant. Disables cruise control. Replaced obviously faulty wheel speed sensor with ACDelco match. Both lights now on for eternity. Have not asked a dealership. When the bad wire was not making contact with the coil spring, everything was normal. When i replaced the parts the truck was shut off with the lights on and the wire making contact. I wonder if i just never gave it the opportunity to reset. Ive unplugged the battery before.
I have the same problem, haven't had a check yet, my abs, traction, hill start and tyre pressure have all gone at the same time. I will update you when I'm done! I have a ford Cmax 2011 model.
Update, I took both the front wheels off, no corrosion or problems with the wires, I still need to look at the back ones though.
My 2008 Saturn Aura 3.5 XE V6 is doing the exact same thing I noticed it comes on when turning hard fast at certain angles the all of a sudden I can feel the ride or handling change then boom the chime and the abs light and traction control somes I get a code for my bank 2 O2 sensor with it saying no activity heater resistance bad wiring I suspect
My 05 jeep grand Cherokee 4x4 has all three lights on all the time stabiltrack ABS and traction control. Can figure it out
I have a question. I have these issues with a twist, I also get an error message on the dashboard, my fuel gauge drops to empty and sometimes the car won't start. So to clarify, I have the abs, traction control, alarm light plus everything I mentioned above all abruptly coming on at once. Then sometimes it goes back off for a while then back on.. 2006 Chevy Malibu LTZ
Usually when a bunch of lights (often including the TCS) come on at the same time, it's a more generalized computer/electrical problem. I've had this occur in my Camaro (I made a video on that) and in my Monte Carlo all the gauges will go haywire with DIC lights coming on while driving at random. I'm pretty sure it's the ECU freaking out because of an electrical fault, nothing to do with any of the individual lights that come on. Pretty hard to diagnose and you'll need an electronics specialist to nail it down.
My 2012 Chevy impala jerks or grinds when turning left or slowly accelerating and when it does, the traction control, ABS and stabilitrak turn on, would doing this fix that problem?
It depends on why you're having the issue. This method may help if the problem has to do with the condition of the wires between the car computer and the wheel hub. If the issue is the sensor itself, then the solution is to change the wheel hub.
Hi, thanks for your help those lights drive crazy off and on.thanks again I will tray to fix it myself.Have a wonderful day.
I have a 2016 Buick Enclave and on the way home the 'traction control off' light and warning indicator message came on and the 'service stabilitrak' warning message came on. The car felt like it was surging every few seconds as i was driving, like it was trying to stabilize.
I live about 12 miles away from the nearest auto parts store. Is it safe to drive to have codes checked? I need to determine exactly which part(s) to order.
I hope this isn't too hard for a woman to fix. 🙃
Thanks in advance for your help
Scanning for codes is harmless to the car. Get them to check the "history" though because these intermittent electrical problems usually don't show when the car is stationary. But the history will be saved in the car's memory.
I had a guy replaced both speed sensor harnesses 2 years ago and it was fine. I recently had someone else do my loose hub on the driver side and since then the stabilitrac and brake assist light has been on. I popped both front tires off and neither of the wires are frayed although the white cover over one of the wires has been rubbed off or fell off. Any ideas? No visible damage to either sensor or even the wires without the protector over it.
Tough situation if you can't see the damage. It's possible for connections to "fatigue" over time causing micro-fractures. Not quite the same as metal fatigue in buildings or aircraft but it's a sort of failure from continually flexing something over and over again. Basically the fault may not be a result of something external but may have happened internally. You might be able to detect this with a multimeter set to resistance mode. Any weak or intermittent cable would have a much higher resistance between ends. But you'd have to disconnect all the harnesses to check this.
I have a 2015 impala that will have tha stabilitrack , traction and engine light on all at once then it will fix itself random do u have any suggestions on what i can do to fix that?
That's just the telltale sign that the system is in the midst of failing. Whether it's a wiring issue or a bad sensor, these things tend to fail gradually not all of a sudden. It's best to diagnose the problem when it's in this condition instead of waiting for it to fail entirely. At least when it's flaky like this, you can detect and localize it more easily with a scan tool or multimeter.
Had axles replaced abs light is on and traction contorl and it's causing my steering wheel light to xone on to and losing power steering woukd that be a sensor to had no issues tell changing the axles
What car do you have because I’m having the same issue with my 2010 ford fusion hybrid
If you found out your issue please let me know
@Justtrying2065 my issues was a wheel speed sensor I no longer have any lights on
@@lukepartin4129 thanks man I’m going to go check mine now
Excellent video - worked like a charm. THank you!!!!
Thanks I hope this fixes my problem 07 grand prix gxp with 94k just started when I would hit a bump then would go off now its always on it dissabled my power steering tcs abs and it keeps saying service stabilatrack on the hud
Having this issue with a 2009 gmc acadia. Tried a new brake input sensor but didn't help. Will try looking at these wheel sensors next.
I'm having these probs service traction control and abs light and car is making noises like breaks are are bad but new pads are on and it roars like it's rotating and rubbing metal but not the rotors or pads look bad and the petal is starting to push back when the rotation noise comes it pushes back on the petal. Is this maybe a bearing to make noises like breaks are rubbing
If I'm understanding you right, that sounds like normal ABS behaviour. When the ABS activates, you should feel and hear noises and the pedal should push back.
Thanks, my issue is on a 2004 Chevy Avalanche and it makes the truck have (VERY) reduced engine speed. And you cant make the TC stay off. So my question is does that likely mean its the TC module? I read that costs around 900-1300$ for the part.
If you're experiencing a loss in power, I wonder if the computer has put the car into "limp mode". Not enough info to tell if it's related to the traction control in any way but limp mode sounds like what you're describing and is usually associated with an engine or transmission problem (check engine light may be on). If TC is responsible for the loss in power you should notice the car drives "jerky" because the TC is overriding the throttle to improve traction but this would be very apparent.
@@ChrisCamaro that is happening to my new body impala it is in limp mode and Jerks when I put it in gear.
I have a 2008 GMC Acadia and both lights the traction control and stability track keep popping up will this work on my vehicle as well ? Also when I about to make a complete stop I get the traction control light and my truck breaks kinda stalls before I am able to get a complete stop ?
If the lights tend to come on during changes in your driving maneuvers (like starting or stopping, going over bumper or turning), then chances are it's an electrical problem because the movements in the car (more specifically the change in those movements) is shifting some wire in such a way that the signal becomes intermittent and this freaks out the computer. You can follow this video and see if the problem is at the hub but if it isn't it could be anywhere along the wire going back to your car's computer. It's hard to find this sort of thing yourself unless the car is up on a hoist so if you don't have the equipment or feel unsafe doing it, best to get a mechanic to check it. At least you can give him a head start by telling him you think it's a intermittent speed sensor wire going to one of the wheels and he can possibly (if the dash lights are on) confirm this with his scan tool or do a visual inspection with the car on a hoist. Otherwise, if you don't see the issue at the hub yourself you'd have to jack the car up on stands and slide under it with a creeper to do your own inspection.
I have a Ford fusion 2019 and I have those lights on even after switching the sensor, bearing. Do you have any idea what else can be switched to have this issue solved?
The wires going from the wheel back to the car computer would be the most likely culprit if changing the bearings didn't do anything.
My traction control and ABS light came on during the Cold snap we had in the weather here in Florida. Every now and again it will go off, but whenever the two lights come on I am unable to put it in cruise control. I just got it out the shop because the speed sensor went out, so I know that's not the problem. Is it possible cold weather can throw a code?
Rain and snow are more likely to cause it. Temperature causes things to expand and contract and I wouldn't entirely rule it out and say no it can't cause it BUT it's unlikely. If the problem is electrical and the wiring is damaged or old, usually and high humidity or wetness in the faulty area will cause a soft short across the wires and disable the system. That's what it's doing right now on my monte carlo. Disables everything only in the rain or snow, never on a dry day. But it's not impossible that the cold is related so see if you can locate the damaged part of the wire between your wheels and the computer anyway.
My Cadillac ats 2014 2.5 is popping up with stabilitrack and traction control turns off and my car starts getting rough while changing gears and looses powers should I try this ?
That could be a red herring. I would scan it first.
Hi, I've got a 2014 audi A3 1.4 tfsi which pops out stabilization control faulty, hill hold assist unavailable and parking brake and it won't start, there is a crank but no start
thank you for your time in showing this. you're a good soul
It's always nice to see people being helped.
Yes, Ty, hoping that's my problem
Hi I got vauxhall insignia ABS light on but it doesn't start if help please
My impala stibilitrack is on and the car is not starting and everything is locked..seems like the tires are locked the car won't move..do you know how to unlock it??
I purchased a 2011 Camaro ls with the RS package because it had been wrecked and I got a good deal on it. I had rode in it before it was wrecked because the person I bought it from is family and it drove great with no issues before the front end impact. I replaced the whole front end back to the fans. I opened the door today and decided to start it so it could run for a little bit and it was clicking like the batteries dead even though it’s not completely dead so I will charge it up tomorrow but what concerns me is I started getting the service stabilitrak light. The front end is up in the air on a jack that’s centered in the front. Before fixing it I had to move it several times with no power steering so I had to put strength into turning the wheel. Idk if that could had messed with the cable in this video or what. What’s your opinion on what is causing this and what would you check ? Could it be the battery going out ? Any of the new parts? The car being on a jack? It also says one of the rear tires are low all of a sudden . I’ve never dealt with this before .
I just purchased a 2010 Buick Lesabre that the abs light and a StabiliTrack warning comes on only when it’s raining. It happens fairly right away- like I hadn’t got 1/10 of a mile down the road in the rain before it came on. The previous owner said that they had taken it to the dealership but because the light always turns off when the engine gets turned off that the shop wasn’t able to find it even after multiple trips. Do you have an idea of where this is likely coming from?
Anything causally related to rain... is a red flag that you have a wire somewhere with the insulation worn off. As soon as water hits it, the water acts like an electrical bridge, causing the wires in the bundle to short circuit. When it's not raining, the air gap between the wires is enough to keep the signal clean. I bet if you lift the car up and have a look at the wire loom going from each wheel back to the ECU, you'll find a break in the insulation somewhere. Perhaps you can even turn the problem on and off with a dollar store spray bottle full of salt water. But for your own safety I don't recommend this level of diagnosis. I might do it because I'm a bit crazy but you'd need the car on and elevated while you spray salt water at your wire looms going back to the ECU. Better to have a mechanic put it on the hoist with a scanner connected for extra measure.
@@ChrisCamaro thanks so much! My dad has a lot more knowledge about cars than I do. He just changed the radiator in my Cadillac ATS so I’ll tell him what you said and have him look before I take it to the shop. I’d rather do a patch job than spend a bunch of money.
@@hamannlaura I get you. In that case, for your or his safety, make sure to use proper jack stands rather than the spare tire jack, put the e-brake on and have someone spot you while you inspect the wire loom. If you have a multimeter you can disconnect the wheel speed sensor and probe the wire going back to the computer. If you check in resistance mode, you may notice a difference between 1 of the wheels and the rest. For that matter, a scan tool capable of scanning the BCM can do this as well, but those are hard to come by if you're not a mechanic.
My 2015 silverado just started doing this... thanks for this good video!
So did mine. Have you had a chance to try it out? If so, what was the outcome?
@@jaylinharvey5893 did your Silverado abs stabiletrack lights go off? Mines keeps coming on. ‘My 2015 Chevy Impala , thanks appreciate it
So I've had a 2010 Buick enclave for a few years I got it used my tire sensors have intermittently went in and out and I just have let it ride I've had one out for over a year and left rear and no stableink or abs but now intermittent everytime i drive
Do you suspect the wheel sensor rather than the wire loom? If that's the case you need to check that the resistance across the wheel sensor is correct. In my car it's 1.1kOhm. For you, you could check a good wheel and compare the suspected bad one.
in the meantime is there a way to turn off this traction control for a while?, I’ve known which mechinic screwed up which wheel ever since it happened. my 12 impala has become sOooo s2pid in its s2pid smRt(not) cR NginEring, that the s2pid-S smRt(not) traction control enginEring kEps coming back on BY ITS OWN SMRT S2PID-sLf!☹️
Actually my follow-up video to this one is all about how to disable the abs until you fix it. Just check the 2nd video in my channel on this topic and the answer is in there.
@@ChrisCamaro
thNx, but I was going for the gold, to disable it WITHOUT disabeling my abs.. & more importantly I was 1drng the UsUL, how chevy could put a traction control off button, that just magically turns itself back on, an off switch that doesn’t work.. I was 1drng then, how gm/chevy NgNErEng could B so amAZngly dum✋😔
I didn't see anything to where you have to go in and clear the faults,like you do for a check engine light,just doing the repair will get rid of the light on the dash.Thanks for the video!
As far as I am aware, the fault will not persist once the problem is corrected. Even before I addressed the issue in my car, every time I started it, the car would be fine with no lights. The ECU was assuming the system was ok until it faults out. You should be ok just to fix the ABS without resetting the lights.
I have a 2006 Astra my ABS light came the ODB came up with 20 codes. It was found that the complete system, Module, punp, and all wheel sensors were faulty. After everything being replaced car was running well for 5 days. Then suddenly on the 5th day was driving home from work and going round a traffic island, when the ABS light came on. I had the mechanic do a diagnostic check on it and it came up showing no faults. Why is this and what is causing the light to come on?
The thing that makes the TCS system hard to diagnose is that it comes on intermittently while you're driving but by the time you're back home or at the mechanic, the problem isn't happening anymore and you can't see it on a scan
We are having rough idle and loss of power when service Stabilitrac and engine light comes on on our Chev Silv 09. Coil is fine, sparkplugs and wires are new, cylinders were bored out $800 cost. Was ok for day and 1/2 then same problem happened again. We need help!!!
Since you mentioned you bored out the cylinders, I have to wonder if the engine roughness is somehow related to that (since changing engine displacement also requires tuning) and not necessarily the Traction Control. That TCS may be a red herring.
@@ChrisCamaro Thanks so much for your help....something to consider.
@@justcuz9837 NP. Sometimes when aftermarket engine work is performed, 2 dozen cables need to be disconnected in order to access the inside of the engine block and when the mechanic reconnects everything there is a loose connection somewhere. Whatever isn't connected may be tripping the TCS but may also be more of a systemic issue affecting other systems, like the engine timing encoder pulses or something else that affects driveability. The cable harness that plugs into the car's computer has many wires going to many sensors. There's no real "right place to start looking" but there seems to be a correlation between your recent engine work and your computer freaking out a day and a half later. I might ask the mechanic who did the work to give it a look over for free if you can reproduce the symptoms for him.
This is BEC. To clarify, all the symptoms took place before the machanic work took place. It's strange to me that the symptoms went away (after machining the headers) for the day and a half. During that day and a half we drove the truck all over town. Then It displayed the same exact symptoms again. After reading the comments btwn you and my wife I felt maybe there was a little information lost in translation. I get the feeling, a sensor has something to do with this. I watched a video on the steering wheel position censor and am wondering what your thoughts are on this? I am no machanic, I'll be the first to admit. But after 25 plus years of car trouble you get a feel for things😅. Thanks for your help. It is deeply appreciated.
@@justcuz9837 Oh yeah, headers would not affect anything probably. I mean basically the TCS system is a form of Torque Management in general, which there is a huge section of code for in the computer. It overrides user inputs to the car and throttles back the power. How this algorithm is implemented varies with the car so I have no idea about specific behaviour for a given car but TCS can cause driveability issues if it activates out of turn. The era of car I'm familiar with only depend on the wheel sensors as inputs for this so you're talking about a total of 8 wires on the car going back to the ECU that could be the culprit. However newer cars might incorporate more sensors so that's a bit out of my league to comment on.
Guess its a mechanic fix for me i was hoping it would b simpler vut good video content thanks it was helpful
O.M.G. Thankyou for all this info. It teaches me alot about my vehicles functions.
Thank you for this video now I’m can check all the sensors on my wheels.
I replaced my ABS module. Because I thought it was bad. It was not, but now my A. BS light is on and I have to pump my brakes up to get break. What can I do to get it connected to my vehicle
Sounds like they need bled, are they sticking?
Hey have you ever had service variable steering Traction control service stabilitrak and service abs all on? My 06 gp gxp is giving me issues!! Trying to see what it could be hub bearings or wire harness?
2004 Buick LeSabre Custom.. Same light issue. I’m on a budget, I’m not rich to afford professional repairs.. Driver side rear wheel AIR SHOCK was replaced and now I need to check. I don’t have a shop, or lift. Driver side rear wheel was stuck and I had to kick the wheel off. Where is THE HEATER CORE on the 2004 Buick LeSabre? I’m getting THERMOSTAT fail code after I replaced the thermostat and temp sensor. I got a basic OBD 2 scan tool.
What about when all hubs and sensors were changed, but still having the same issue?
Abs,stabilitrak off & service break assist& stability control messages on my 08 Cadillac Cts all started at the same time & has been on for 2 days now,they all started at once while driving,didn't notice anything unusual before they popped up. Car drives fine except feels like brakes are a little harder...help!any ideas of what this is?
There are basically 3 things you can do. To "live with the problem", you can follow the link at the bottom of this video which tells you how to de-activate the system so it doesn't cause you problems while you're driving. To actually diagnose and fix the problem you either have to inspect the wire looms going from each wheel back to the computer, as described in this video but that's hard for most people to do without a lift, or you can go to any mechanic and ask him to scan the car for codes to tell you which wheel (or other subsystem) is causing the fault. Off the shelf scanners you can buy won't detect this because it's a "body" code, not an "engine" code. So unless you are mechanically inclined you have to get a mechanic to scan the car. Some good mechanics will do this for free because it's easy and quick. Others might charge up to 50 bucks to do it. You could make a few phone calls to see if you can get it done for free. This will vastly simplify the diagnosis and ultimately be cheaper and faster for you to deal with it.
Did you have any codes regarding the ABS control module?
Very Good Video! You Know Your Stuff & What You're Talking About. Very Informative! Thanks Again.
I have a 2007 Jeep Liberty all my lights kicked on ESP bas abs and traction control. And it drives fine when they're on but when they're off sometimes when I go to hit the gas it feels like something jamming up or the brakes are engaging. And then when I let go the gas and Coast it's fine and then all the lights will kick back on and it drives fine any ideas?
Kind of an odd set of symptoms but it could still be a simple discontinuity in the sensor lines. You could try inspecting and servicing the connectors and surrounding wires at the wheels but if it's not that you have the trace the wire looms all the way back to the car's computer and that's tricky to do without a mechanic's lift.
Great vid. I’m noticing poor traction but no warning lights
Hey love the video but what can I spray in there .... like in the connector
Most hardware stores sell something equivalent to "electrical contact spray", which is a type of solvent the that gets rid of the corrosion that typically forms on conductive materials like copper. It has lubricating qualities too and if you spray some of that in the connector and work the connector on and off half a dozen times, you'll have a good solid connection. Then if you still have issues you'll know it's somewhere else. You can use a multimeter in continuity mode to check both conductors to see if they are shorting as well.
Can this cause your steering wheel to get hard ? I have a Sierra denali and all the lights turned on for abs, stabilitrak, trailer break. Mechanic told me 2000 to fix but it doesn’t sound right to me
I really highly doubt it. If the steering wheel is hard to turn, that's got something to do with the rack and pinion and/or the steering assist (power steering pump and related systems) with a lower likelihood of it being something like the CV joints or something else connected to the steering system. The steering wheel is mechanically coupled to the wheels so any number of mechanical problems could increase steering efforts.