Very well explained. The blue chain was very helpful, often black components are displayed on black backround and the presenter from other canals wear black hand gloves.
This is a superb video. informative, succinct and to the point. No wasted time, well written, edited and filmed. Simple excellent work. Thanks for your efforts.
Got my answer, loose and tight spots in chain while turning cranks is common due to imperfect chainrings. Adjust so tight spots have 1/4" slack and your good to go. Thank you Park Tools
A lot of thought and preparation must have gone into the making of this video. It contains a lot of very helpful clear guidance. I had to size a new chain from scratch and preferred to join the two ends at the bottom of where the chain goes rather than on the chain wheel.
Got damn man thank you so much. I been perplexed with this back tire for 4 days now and soon as I watched your video taking the chain off, BAM I got it.
Trying to figure this out on a three wheel trike, no axle adjustment room, but I think I got it! Thanks! Had to do it twice, too long first time Thank You for your help
Chain tension- spin the cranks and hold bike so the outside face of the chainring is parallel to the ground, give the bike a good shake. If the chain is too loose it will fall off.
I got my pinkie stuck between the front chainring and the chain when I was 7. I’m now 13 and still got the scar. Learnt from that mistake pretty quickly.
You mention that after finding the reference rivet to then add two more links (to make later rear wheel removal easier). Is this necessary for use on forward facing dropouts?
Hello, thank you for these series of videos, is there any intention to make a video about the suspension, in the mountain bike which is mostly fully suspension bike.
Thanks for the amazing work. I put a brand new chain on the single-speed bike but yet has lots of noise which It didn't have with the old chain. I changed the front chainring but it makes that noise. Is it possible brand new chain has a factory defect?
Hey Ben! Is this tipe of masterlink at 1:00 directional? I have been using for years at the opossite side, luckily I never had any problems, but it does not mean that I did it correctly. Congratulations for all the videos about chains!! Love your channel an the brand!!
Flor.e.Cultura yes, the close side of the master link should face the direction in which the chain is moving. If the open side is facing the direction of chain movement there is a very little chance that it could catch on something and pop off. I've never heard of this happening to anyone, so there is no problem if you put it backwards.
Great video! Where can I purchase that chain tensioner? I am looking everywhere for the one you use but can't seem to find it. I couldn't find it on parktool.com. Any suggestions?
When my pedals are turning while pushing the bike, does this neccessarily mean that my chain tension is too tight? Greetings from Germany, great Video!
I work for the CAT dealer Zeppelin in Germany, in order to get stuck screwed connections the right torque is crucial. That's why all the screws have a control line. The installer confirms that the screw has been tightened with the correct torque.
you won't normally as steel, aluminium a few others are hard to damage but if you have carbon bike and no metal there then make sense but most times always be metal to clamp on no matter what, I use a torque wrench on my cassette, pedals, crank bolts, disc brake bolts, unless it carbon I do all rest with feel but at bike projects I often do all by feel as they not worry so much and just want it road worth that can be done without it
This guide was good. But some points from my experience recently doing this: 1. I couldn't add two additional links to the chain length when sizing, as it took away all adjustment to get the chain tensioned properly, and as the chain will slacken over time it would be too long for the frame adjusters. 2. You should fully grease the connecting link before installing. 3. The retaining clip should have the closed section facing forward in the direction of chain travel. Otherwise very useful guide... 👍
I wonder how many cyclists, who do their own servicing, use a torque wrench for the various nuts and bolts. I have one but don't use it, and I've never stripped a thread or had bolts come loose.
One thing I am not sure about that is not entirely clear in this video , this ideal 12 mm amount of movement in the chain , is it 6mm up from where the chain sits and 6mm down to make 12mm alltogether ?, or 12mm up and 12 mm down , or just 12mm up from where the chain is sitting ?
04:20 , i'm that guy... And yes, it is extremely painful, taking into account the tight chain... And another time I almost lost a finger because it was in one of the holes of the brake disc when I accidentally twisted the wheel a little...
I noticed that bike has a Surly Tuggnut. Never used them before, thinking about getting one ... Serious question: Do you use one on each side or only on the drive side?
I prefer a chain tensioner on one side. The majority of force that is applied is being applied to the driveside. So this is where you will benefit the most from the chain tensioner. The Tuggnut is fantastic BTW.
Get the bike up in the air to pedal and test it. Pedal and push on the chain at the point between front are rear sprockets. Purposefully try to disengage the chain, and shove it off the sprocket. If it stays on, you are good.
Question: If I made a mistake in sizing a chain (cutting it too short), is it possible to add links with another quick link, or must I get a new chain instead?
Depends if you have a master link or not. If you do just un do the link and remove the chain. If you do not you can push the pin 75% of the way out then pull the two sides of chain apart. To re install, the content from the video should have you covered.
There needs to be some sort of adjustment to the dropouts or bottom bracket to create chain tension in a system like this without a derailleur. In some cases you can use a spring loaded or bolt on chain tensioner but if the bike was intended to be a single speed bike you will have an adjustment somewhere.
Parktool? is there something wrong with this video, it looks like it is horizontal mirror image. The whole image shows drive train on the left side of the bike. at 7 minutes 55 seconds for few seconds, the drive train appears to right of the bike, then it changes to the left of the bike until the end of the video.
7 55 is on the left side because its a bmx and usually bmx bikes has their cranks onto the left. the rest are normal which are on the right side so the video is fine :)
Hi, so I picked up a Schwinn two sprocket off the road recently. All it needed was some inner tubes and a little maintenance. But when I ride it hard and/or break hard, the chain slips off the rear sprocket, even though it’s plenty tight. Any suggestions? I’m guessing maybe the rear sprocket is just old and worn down a bit and needs to be replaced
It could. A stiff link may not be a lubrication issue but sometimes a link of the chain has been bent. But this is more common on bikes with more than one gear. I guess i'm not super familiar with what you refer to as a two sprocket.
Also make sure to use another lubricant over the WD-40 (unless a chain oil product from WD-40) WD-40 proper is not a lubricant and acts as more of a solvent to break things up and leave a very thin residue to keep things from rusting.
Always tighten the Left axle nut first and a torque wrench is unnecessary but I'm sure some people believe every sales pitch they here so....... But the rest of the video is good
6:02 That's EXACTLY what's happened to me! Thanks for the information! But If the chain don't move 6mm up and down,should I change the chairing or loose the chain a little more?
Centering the wheel between the chainstays is done by looking at it from behind, and if it looks OK, that's good...? Just roughly eyeballing it is OK, a more accurate method isnt needed...? On many frames, the chainstays aren't identical... how to handle that...?
Try lubricating the threads of the axle. That will allow it to get up to torque. Another reason that can happen is if the drop outs are painted and not giving the lock nut or the outer nut enough purchase to hold the wheel. Scuffing up the dropout can help as well.
BeboSaab no mine is heavy so doubt it’s aluminum it’s either bent a little or like the previous comment said it’s the cheep paint job that makes it slide off
Very well explained. The blue chain was very helpful, often black components are displayed on black backround and the presenter from other canals wear black hand gloves.
This is a superb video. informative, succinct and to the point. No wasted time, well written, edited and filmed. Simple excellent work.
Thanks for your efforts.
Got my answer, loose and tight spots in chain while turning cranks is common due to imperfect chainrings.
Adjust so tight spots have 1/4" slack and your good to go.
Thank you Park Tools
A lot of thought and preparation must have gone into the making of this video. It contains a lot of very helpful clear guidance. I had to size a new chain from scratch and preferred to join the two ends at the bottom of where the chain goes rather than on the chain wheel.
really the best video for Dirt bikes, Single speed and fixed gears.
absolute gem video for bicycle lovers and how to check your chain tension. Information given adequately wirhout any further ado
These videos are very informational when put across by a professional like this chap, thumbs up from me!
Thank You Park Tool..
Thank you Park Tool Channel, Greetings from indonesia
This is very informative. Gonna use this info to tighten my son's bike chain tension. It wasn't fun trying to fix the derailed chain roadside.
Definitive how-to-tight-a-bike-chain tutorial. Tough beard too!! 😉👍 - Greetings from Italy
Best explanation. Concise and thorough. Thanks.
EXCELLENT INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO!! Just what I needed to fix chain length on an old 5-speed bike.
Got damn man thank you so much. I been perplexed with this back tire for 4 days now and soon as I watched your video taking the chain off, BAM I got it.
Cheers Ben, Love the look on your face when your inflated glove pinkie got stuck in the chain ring, just like my boss ! when I tell him I'm going home
guys, you deserve tons of likes
Thanks a lot needed explanation for a great tension, greetings from France !!
Really good video Ben very helpful. Keep them coming. Thanks.
Great video. Helped me greatly even though not very mechanically inclined!
Very excellent and well detailed instructional video! Appreciate it, man! 👊🏾
Again, you guys helped me. Thank you
Trying to figure this out on a three wheel trike, no axle adjustment room, but I think I got it! Thanks! Had to do it twice, too long first time Thank You for your help
Man this is the best video for this topic! Thanks a lot!
Thanks for the video
That axle bolt tool looks good. Wish Park tools did a BMX home tool kit.
Very good explanation. Thank you!
Your background sounds is awesome
Your video help me very much thank you park tool
08/13/22,,,amazing how much bicycle repair tricks a Person forgets after 40years. 👍🏼 also Amazing is buying an Adult Trike when exercise sux
Best video about change and adjustments of a bike chain. Thanks for it!
Thanks for such a helpful video. This is way less intimidating, if only I had all the tools!
This was very helpful, thanks :)
Most helpful video 😀
Bravo 👏👌 good quality content
Very good …. Had a good laugh with the fingers !
Awesome video - to the point..
Chain tension- spin the cranks and hold bike so the outside face of the chainring is parallel to the ground, give the bike a good shake. If the chain is too loose it will fall off.
Very good Works
THANK YOU!!
Great beard man 🤘
Awesome & Thanks :)
What if your chain doesn't have a master link.
Watch the video bro
Hey what if your chain doesn't have a C clip!? Because mine doesn't.
Brake the chain, add the link
Try watching the video.
I got my pinkie stuck between the front chainring and the chain when I was 7. I’m now 13 and still got the scar. Learnt from that mistake pretty quickly.
Brady Douglas amen brother got my pointer finger caught in the chain of my single speed
My finger just tingled with the memory of getting it caught in a friends drivetrain, after that day I had 11 nails
Park tool yessir
You mention that after finding the reference rivet to then add two more links (to make later rear wheel removal easier). Is this necessary for use on forward facing dropouts?
It is not necessary on forward facing drop outs.
Hello, thank you for these series of videos, is there any intention to make a video about the suspension, in the mountain bike which is mostly fully suspension bike.
Thanks for the amazing work. I put a brand new chain on the single-speed bike but yet has lots of noise which It didn't have with the old chain. I changed the front chainring but it makes that noise. Is it possible brand new chain has a factory defect?
Hey Ben! Is this tipe of masterlink at 1:00 directional? I have been using for years at the opossite side, luckily I never had any problems, but it does not mean that I did it correctly. Congratulations for all the videos about chains!! Love your channel an the brand!!
Flor.e.Cultura yes, the close side of the master link should face the direction in which the chain is moving. If the open side is facing the direction of chain movement there is a very little chance that it could catch on something and pop off. I've never heard of this happening to anyone, so there is no problem if you put it backwards.
Nice video
thank you very much
I new to the channel and I thought he was saying "ive been with park tool" and just cutting off
Nice video!
thanks full
that scene with the finger triggered me haha ... happened twice ... I still have all my 11 fingers still tho :)))
I don’t even need to take my chain off and im just watching cuz it entertaining
The chainring is on the left side of the bike (@ 9:37)? Looks as if you have your video mirrored..
Stadtradler some bmx's have a left side drivetrain if your right is your preferred "grind side" so you don't mess up your chairing, cog, and chain.
Great video! Where can I purchase that chain tensioner? I am looking everywhere for the one you use but can't seem to find it. I couldn't find it on parktool.com. Any suggestions?
Bit late but that is a surly tensioner
Good looks bruh, took me an hour but we good, SLATT.
Can you do a video like this one but using a BMX with integrated tensioners, like BSD ALXV frame?
When my pedals are turning while pushing the bike, does this neccessarily mean that my chain tension is too tight? Greetings from Germany, great Video!
Not necessarily. If the freehub is tight and not spinning well, it can also move the pedals.
Спасибо👍😁
Bravo 😊
I've never in my life used a torque wrench on the axel nut. Have you ever in actual work?
that threw me too.. never seen it irl
I have
I work for the CAT dealer Zeppelin in Germany, in order to get stuck screwed connections the right torque is crucial. That's why all the screws have a control line. The installer confirms that the screw has been tightened with the correct torque.
you won't normally as steel, aluminium a few others are hard to damage but if you have carbon bike and no metal there then make sense but most times always be metal to clamp on no matter what, I use a torque wrench on my cassette, pedals, crank bolts, disc brake bolts, unless it carbon I do all rest with feel but at bike projects I often do all by feel as they not worry so much and just want it road worth that can be done without it
What chain tensioner do you use?
Good vid
4:29 chain tension
4:21 I was watching at 12:24 when he screamed and scared the sh*t out of me
Didn't see a link, but what is the part used for the chain tensioner?
This guide was good. But some points from my experience recently doing this:
1. I couldn't add two additional links to the chain length when sizing, as it took away all adjustment to get the chain tensioned properly, and as the chain will slacken over time it would be too long for the frame adjusters.
2. You should fully grease the connecting link before installing.
3. The retaining clip should have the closed section facing forward in the direction of chain travel.
Otherwise very useful guide... 👍
Regarding point one, I always size without the connecting link, so it will then lengthen by half an inch, when I add this later on...
God! Why does every single bike installation have to be so hard! I just want a gold chain
This isn't difficult
@@houseofpills it isnt but I just managed to fuck it up somehow. Ugh chain is too short by a long way now i need a new chain fuck
What hapoen if fingers get caught in sprocket?? Do you still go all the way round or double back?
I wonder how many cyclists, who do their own servicing, use a torque wrench for the various nuts and bolts. I have one but don't use it, and I've never stripped a thread or had bolts come loose.
Is it necessary to move the wheel every time I replace a chain? Or not, if I size it after the old chain?
There should be relatively little chain slack in these chains. Keeping the chain pulled tight enough and connect it would be a good trick indeed.
that chainline tho, especially for a fixed gear
Do you mean as displayed at timeframe 4:02? It looks like it's going in towards the back. Is that normal for a fixed-geared bike?
One thing I am not sure about that is not entirely clear in this video , this ideal 12 mm amount of movement in the chain , is it 6mm up from where the chain sits and 6mm down to make 12mm alltogether ?, or 12mm up and 12 mm down , or just 12mm up from where the chain is sitting ?
Can this be applied exactly as is to Internally geared hubs? A not sure why but I can't find a video on just chain replacement for IGHs.
For the purposes of this video, single-speed = one chainring in front, one sprocket in back. You’re in the right place.
"Riveting stuff" - Calvin Jones
Is there a trick to removing the clip with the pliers?
so chain without master link needs new pin/rivet?
04:20 , i'm that guy...
And yes, it is extremely painful, taking into account the tight chain...
And another time I almost lost a finger because it was in one of the holes of the brake disc when I accidentally twisted the wheel a little...
I noticed that bike has a Surly Tuggnut. Never used them before, thinking about getting one ... Serious question: Do you use one on each side or only on the drive side?
I prefer a chain tensioner on one side. The majority of force that is applied is being applied to the driveside. So this is where you will benefit the most from the chain tensioner. The Tuggnut is fantastic BTW.
Thank you, this helps a TON!
Can the surly tuggnut also be used with a front facing dropout?
Is 17mm up-down movement too much movement for a conversion? I can't get any closer than this to the spec with an acceptable gear ratio.
Get the bike up in the air to pedal and test it. Pedal and push on the chain at the point between front are rear sprockets. Purposefully try to disengage the chain, and shove it off the sprocket. If it stays on, you are good.
Ok got mine road bike but mine has one socket and the pedals go backwards when I move the bike forward how do I fix that
Question:
If I made a mistake in sizing a chain (cutting it too short), is it possible to add links with another quick link, or must I get a new chain instead?
Adding links is fine
@@MaplePanda04 They asked about "quick links", not regular links.
@@duckacid Quick links allow the user to add more links. I’m not sure what your objection is.
@@MaplePanda04 Adding links is one thing, adding quick links is one another thing. They asked about the latter, which your reply didn't address.
What i need to do if i just wanna remove my single speed chain and put it back?
Depends if you have a master link or not. If you do just un do the link and remove the chain. If you do not you can push the pin 75% of the way out then pull the two sides of chain apart. To re install, the content from the video should have you covered.
I bought a bike and I wanna go with a bigger sprocket in the front I want to know how much is it so I can replace it how much is the part
Hi, who is chain sized and tension adjusted if there are no dropouts in the frame to finely adjust the position of the rear wheel axle?
There needs to be some sort of adjustment to the dropouts or bottom bracket to create chain tension in a system like this without a derailleur. In some cases you can use a spring loaded or bolt on chain tensioner but if the bike was intended to be a single speed bike you will have an adjustment somewhere.
@parktool Ok, got it. Thanks for the advice and the very informative video.
Hi again. This time the question is how to size a chain with vertical dropouts and a hanging tensioner.
Parktool? is there something wrong with this video, it looks like it is horizontal mirror image. The whole image shows drive train on the left side of the bike. at 7 minutes 55 seconds for few seconds, the drive train appears to right of the bike, then it changes to the left of the bike until the end of the video.
The bike at 7 mins 55 secs is a different bike, but with similar coloured red frame. The blue bike is a left hand drive BMX.
7 55 is on the left side because its a bmx and usually bmx bikes has their cranks onto the left. the rest are normal which are on the right side so the video is fine :)
is it safe to put too much tension on chain?
Too much tension on the chain can put added stress on the freewheel which can cause premature wear. I hope this helps!
it also snaps fixed gear chains *ahemisnappedmineyesterdayahem*
Ashamed to say I experienced 4:18 while trying to clean the chain on my old fixie. Ouch!
Paul Street ouch how bad was it
@@nolacross704 really, really painful. Blood everywhere. Managed to get it looked at by a nurse straight away though, so I didn't lose my finger nail.
Hi, so I picked up a Schwinn two sprocket off the road recently. All it needed was some inner tubes and a little maintenance. But when I ride it hard and/or break hard, the chain slips off the rear sprocket, even though it’s plenty tight. Any suggestions? I’m guessing maybe the rear sprocket is just old and worn down a bit and needs to be replaced
That could be or possibly you have a stiff link in your chain. Interesting problem.
I thoroughly applied WD-40, twice. Could it still have a stiff link?
It could. A stiff link may not be a lubrication issue but sometimes a link of the chain has been bent. But this is more common on bikes with more than one gear. I guess i'm not super familiar with what you refer to as a two sprocket.
Also make sure to use another lubricant over the WD-40 (unless a chain oil product from WD-40) WD-40 proper is not a lubricant and acts as more of a solvent to break things up and leave a very thin residue to keep things from rusting.
@@parktool Single gear was what I meant, I thought I heard somebody refer to that as two sprocket also. Thanks very much for the help!
Always tighten the Left axle nut first and a torque wrench is unnecessary but I'm sure some people believe every sales pitch they here so....... But the rest of the video is good
Why the left nut must be tightened first ?
The extra inch is not net necessary. I needed to redo mine because of that. Very big slack even after pushing the wheel to the farthest end.
in my single speed the chain drop off quite often, means there s not enough tension?
Thats likely the problem. Give that a try and see if it fixes the issue.
@@parktool that was quick! thanks
What if your chain doesn't have a connecting rivet?
6:02 That's EXACTLY what's happened to me!
Thanks for the information!
But
If the chain don't move 6mm up and down,should I change the chairing or loose the chain a little more?
So question I do see a master link or whatever, it all looks the same. :( there also is a c clip anywhere
Centering the wheel between the chainstays is done by looking at it from behind, and if it looks OK, that's good...? Just roughly eyeballing it is OK, a more accurate method isnt needed...?
On many frames, the chainstays aren't identical... how to handle that...?
USE THE BLUNT END OF A TOOL TO CHECK CHAIN TENSION; NOT YOUR FINGER.
What if my wheel is always coming loose does that mean something is bent on the frame ?
Try lubricating the threads of the axle. That will allow it to get up to torque. Another reason that can happen is if the drop outs are painted and not giving the lock nut or the outer nut enough purchase to hold the wheel. Scuffing up the dropout can help as well.
Park Tool I’ll make sure to scrape off that paint could a short chain cause this too ?
BeboSaab no mine is heavy so doubt it’s aluminum it’s either bent a little or like the previous comment said it’s the cheep paint job that makes it slide off
BeboSaab yeah I’m going to strip my bike and figure it out I got it second hand and it’s been a pain in the but since I got it