Suspended timber floor part 1
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- Опубликовано: 8 дек 2020
- Here is the kit I use:
Bosch Professional Combi Drill and Impact Driver with Two 18V 4.0 Ah Batteries amzn.to/2owE0mK
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Circular Saw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
amzn.to/2IGTwDv
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Multi-Cutter with 2 x 18 V 5 Ah Batteries and 16 Accessories
amzn.to/2AYPOAM
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Jigsaw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
amzn.to/2IDgTxA
Bosch Professional GAS 35 M AFC Wet/Dry Extractor
amzn.to/2p5iPbj
Bosch Professional GMF 1600 CE Corded 240V Multi-Function Router
amzn.to/35komvb
Occidental Leather 5089 LG Seven Bag Framer Tool Belt
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Occidental Leather 5355 Stronghold Comfort Package
amzn.to/2VuRF9U
Hikoki Nail Gun
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...
Bosch Table Saw & leg stand
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...
Damp Proof Membrane
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...
18mm Chipboard Flooring
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53... 
Хобби
Little tip to save that chem fix.. get all the wall plates fixed level to the wall with plugs and screws, then go along after drilling the holes and chem fix all in one go. Hope this helps!
Great work as always.....interesting chem fix....might have to use some of that myself....but ill drill it all first.... You sound like me, I'm saving so much on the build I can even buy this new toy and I am still quids up when I offset it against the build.
Cant wait almost at the video that I'm in haha
You're up soon Billy Boy! Glad you're still with us mate
Nice job! With my carpentry skills it would have to be a beam and block floor for me :).
I did look at that (despite never doing it before), but for the money (and savings possible with me doing the carpentry) it made sense for us to suspend it in timber.
Looks good mate. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Cheers mate!
a very good progress considering the wheather is working against you but a longest there's determination and holp everything is possible.
Bosch all the way!!!!
Built in joist hanger not an option?
Apologies if i didnt look hard enough, but did you do a video of the block walls being built for the timbers to bolt to?
I honestly can't remember. All the videos were uploaded in sequential order. I may not have done if I was super busy or the weather prohibited it.
Coming back to this video to recap on details around the dpm and dpc levels for suspended timber ground floor. I plan to run the oversite dpm up the wall behind the ledger plate as you have, so could you kindly confirm the level of the brickwork dpc please - did your spec simply have it run or the top (lap) of the dpm? Many online designs appear to show dpm must run a course below the timber floor, but then they don't use the oversite dpm up the wall method, which surely must be ideal way of preventing rising moisture penetrative the floor structure...BCO were obviously quite happy with this too? Thanks again!
Our top course of brick (and therefore the DPM) were run to the height of the floor joists in the original house.
If I had my time again, I would actually do this; work out the height of the floor joists in the original house, but then subtract the thickness of my finished flooring (i.e. Karndean + plywood + 22mm chipboard) this way I would have been able to match my floor heights slightly better without having to raise up the floor height with those little batten strips and OSB.
Also, I would have found out exactly what the thickness of the sliding door frame + cill was, and then figured out exactly where the sliding doors were due to be positioned, and taken that thickness from the course of bricks that were at that point, again to achieve that flush finish without raising floor heights.
It can be a bit hard to do if I'm honest, knowing exactly where your walls are going to be while you're building your brick subwalls, but spend the time slowly going through it, and you'll get there.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Many thanks! Your ledger idea gives good flexibility of floor position...Will defo be installing the suspended floor as a later job, after knock through, as it seems the easiest way to match those heights, and work off the the concrete oversite in meantime.
Thanks again for your great tutorials! I have watched most of your videos, but I think I missed the part about the ventilation of the area under the floor. What makes it a ventilated area? From what I undersrand from previous videos, the area is wrapped in the continous layer of DPM from all 4 sides (perimeter), and the same DPM and underneath the concrete as well. A ventilation was added later, how? cut through the DPM, wouldn't it break the integrity? Perhaps it was covered in some other video which I missed? Thank you!
or that black thing that is seen at 12:50 , and few more on the same wall, are the covers of the ventilation? could you share some technical details how the ventilation holes were done? again sorry perhaps I missed it in some previous videos.
So I have a continuous wrap of DPM under the vegetation concrete, then I pulled it down only at the points that I put the vents in (which are telescopic). The vent holes a created by simply leaving a gap in the brick course, which is the size of the telescopic vent.
I then put the roll of 9" DPM over the top of that, to provide a continuous DPM layer.
Hopefully that helps answer? There isn't anywhere for me to provide a technical drawing now!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Thanks, this is clear enough!
Use a string line for your final wall plate
Got a similar sized suspended floor to do on my extension, will use ledgers off inner blockwork too... What size & make of bolts did you go for please? Is there any flex in the joist spans that might warrant a sleeper wall underneath?
I used M14 bolts (I'd recommend ones with washers and nuts that allow you to tighten them up once you've fixed them with the chemfix!). You'lI see in an upcoming video, I have put two rows of noggins in the floor, and then put some wooden blocks on DPM and wedged them under the floor to stop any flex.
There was a bit of flex over the 4.5m span (even though they're 8x3's!), and I didn't really mind that to be honest, but I figured it would only get more flexible over time, so put the blocks in as insurance.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Brilliant, cheers for the info. I'm spanning 5.4m so was expecting to build a sleeper half way. Thanks for the confirmation!
Nice! What's the other span? 5.4 is quite a long way to go, is there no shorter length? You'll definitely want a sleeper wall - just don't forget to leave nice big air gaps in there to allow airflow...
@@OfficeBoyBuilder 6m wide, 5.4m deep. Just balking at the ever increasing price of timber! And a big hit again in the flat roof + lantern upstand too...
That's going to be epic mate, I hope it goes well. Feel free to ping me an email with the pictures when it's done! Yeah it's pretty hefty, and prices have definitely gone up recently. Try registering a trade account somewhere to get trade rates. Also check out Builder Depot, that's where I found the best value for the quality of Timber.
Where abouts are you based in the county?
How did you tighten those bolts?
Ye right threaded bar all day
Would you not need to support those beams from below as well. Maybe a few blocks and packers at intervals to keep them level. Maybe its overkill but I am not a fan of just using GLUE.
The ledger boards are fine as they are with the bolts and chemical cement. We cut the joists nice and tight, which helps to push them into the face of the blockwork behind.
We will be supporting the floor joists from below though, as they span 4.5m, even with two rows of noggins, we want to prop them up from underneath.
Any reason you haven’t created a lintel over the window?
The way you have done it, ant roof load is reliant on the fixing between the window header piece and the vertical it is fixed to.
A stud should support the horizontals just like over your bifold opening.
Usually a 3rd stud to kitchen window.
I) cripple to sill timber
II) cripple to lintel
III) stud to head plate. Lintel fixed between these and also stabilises lintel.
Did Engineer not provide you with panel / stud layouts ?
Looking good though !
Lol wait for the next video mate...I hold my hands up to the stupid mistake I made, and sort it 🤣 good spot!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder 👍 you need to cut a 50mm vertical cavity into house wall where timber frame meets meets. Insulate to stop thermal bridge and penetrating damp.
I looked at doing this, and horizontal cavity tray too, but they're solid walls, so we're all good 👍👍
Put the cap back on the resin. And buy extras mixing tubes. SF sell them.
I use this stuff:
www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-v-hybrid-mortar-resin-360ml/88507
It’s amazing. Keep the cap and throw away the mixing tubes. I’ve had one I’ve used for over a year.
Genuine question (not a criticism as most RUclips comments come across 😁) why are you suspending the floor?
If it’s just because of the existing air bricks, you could have used telescopic extensions. I did that for my porch.
Graham The Builder - same question here.
It's a fair question, and absolutely not viewed as critical! I suppose there are a few aspects to the answer. First off, let's be fair; I'm an office worker who's having a decent go at this...because of that I'm playing to my strengths - carpentry. I'm not a general contractor/builder, and didn't feel confident to have a go at something I'm not familiar with. I've done quite a few suspended floors over the years, I like the feel of them under foot, and it's mostly in keeping with the rest of the house (kitchen not withstanding). Also the architect/structural engineer knows I do carpentry and stuck to a timber frame brief for that reason. The walls have kick-ass U-values, far better than brick, and while there's probably a strong argument for a poured concrete floor with a full insulation layer in it too, I felt happier with the cost and time to put in a suspended floor. Hope that answers it honestly and fairly!
Hi mate. Probably a stupid question but why did you put the drain pipe in the kitchen area. Could you not run the waste to the drain on the outside
We ran that pipe all the way under the floor and straight out into the mains sewer (it's a combined sewer thankfully!). That 4" pipe is oversized because I don't want the chance of any blockages, so we just ran it as a bigger pipe. We can connect the dish washer and sink etc. To that, and it will hopefully never clog outside the house. Hope that answers your question!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder yes mate it does. I was just thinking about the smell and also where you will vent it. You could install an air admittance valve
Yes, you're right - and I think we will have one of those valves, as well as U bends on all the pipes feeding into it...plumbing really isn't my bag, so my mate Nick is helping with all those things (25+ years of plumbing!)
How much was the bosch saw?
It was around £700
Will it be a timber framed extension??
Yes, full timber frame; floor, walls and roof.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder As you know I am doing a first floor one on top of the cavity wall. I will be interested to see the way you do the corners of the frame etc. Do you have to use fire board on some of the walls owing to neighbours property etc. On the chem fix I take it you low out the hole of dust before fixing them in. I take it you just push them in and leave them?
Hey mate, yes I remember your build. You'll see the corners in one of the up-coming videos as I cover that specifically. I drilled them out, blew out the dust, shoved as much chemfix into the hole as I could, and then pounded the bolt in with a hammer!
Don't see any air bricks?
That's because the DPM is hiding them
They're in, otherwise building control wouldn't sign it off 👍
Why Bosch and not festool? Love your videos btw.
When I first started buying tools (aged 14!) I just copied what my dad had...which was Bosch back then. Festool and all these other brands hardly existed in any meaningful way, and front a budget perspective, Festool would have been well beyond my bank balance...then you get committed to a battery system and there's no going back really.
I do find myself wondering when they're going to wake up and realise they're losing out on a lot of business to these other competitors by not being more visible on RUclips etc.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thank you for replying! Love your videos and love the strong work ethic. Did you find out why the sliding doors were letting in water at the bottom?
Cheers mate, appreciate the support! Yes we did. I think it was a combination of a few factors; the screws pulling water down through capillary action (Würth silicone sorted that) and the DPM pulling water in too - trimmed it back and sealed it from the inside with Würth silicone too. Since then we've had a ton of rain and not a single drop of water 💧
I've seen some things in my time but who designed this floor? It's makes no sense what so ever. You've got a concrete sub floor which is already holding water and your bolting timber directly onto cold brickwork? It will make a lovely cold damp floor, spot on 👍
Not sure you understand the design here mate, so I'll give you the benefit of the doubt...that layer of concrete is only there to stop weeds/vegetation growing up through underneath. Once we have the floor suspended and the walls/roof on, we clear it all out, run the noggins in, and then fill it with 160mm of PIR. This allows airflow underneath to stop any damp, and too notch insulation above for high U-values, and with the underfloor heating on top, it's going to be dry, warm and not drafty. Spot on.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder but why though? Why not 150mm of PIR underneath 25mm round the cold block work perimeter and screed on top of the underfloor heating?
That's a fair question. I'm playing to my strengths - carpentry. I'm not a general contractor/builder, and didn't feel confident to have a go at something I'm not familiar with. I've done quite a few suspended floors over the years, I like the feel of them under foot, and it's mostly in keeping with the rest of the house (kitchen not withstanding). Also the architect/structural engineer knows I do carpentry and stuck to a timber frame brief for that reason. The walls have kick-ass U-values, far better than brick, and while there's probably a strong argument for a poured concrete floor with a full insulation layer in it too, I felt happier with the cost and time to put in a suspended floor. Hope that answers it honestly and fairly!
It stands for Polyisocyanurate - it's a rigid form of insulation which has highly rated insulating properties (i.e. it traps air and doesn't let it through!)
Build the blockwork to underside of joist height sit the joists on save u alot of money in 8×3 timbers
I stuck to the spec of the Structural Engineer...wasn't going to mess around with the building inspector!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder they just read it off a computer if the computer says no. It's all down to people reading out of books n never done it themselves 😂😂
What u done there has cost u alot more money there not arsed coz it's nothing to them.
That building inspector has never had to pick a tool up but tell u how it works
All building inspector r different they all contradict there selves that's how u no they never been on site other than a uni site. 1 reads 1 book the other another book 9 out of 10 r bullshit. Always listen to structural engineer then it's on there toes
No bolts no resin the blockwork supports the weight
Could have just cut it, turned it and cut it again. Certainly doesn’t have the same enjoyment of a new toy though 😂 👍
Haha you're absolutely right mate...the issue is the weight and number of them to be doing all that for. Also, I seem to have a knack for always misaligning my second cut, and having a bit left over 🤣🙈
Why not just create a ledge in the blockwork when it was being laid - so that the joists would sit on ? - rather than chem fixing timber to the blockwork ? would have saved you timber and time.
That's a really decent suggestion to be honest mate! For starters, I wanted to stick to what was specified by the structural engineer, because that's ultimately what the building inspector is signing of against.
Also, I'm used to do it this way in other applications (stair stringers for example), so I stuck to what I knew.
Come on, we do this things everyday and even more complicated
Chop those 3x8’s timber with a reciprocating saw. Or use a hand saw you lazy git! 😂
Oh I know I know you needed an excuse to buy a new toy. Been there, done that - and the wife believed me 😀
Hahaha busted (sort of!) I've been waiting years for a legit reason to get that beast, and this was it. Rafters being 8x3, and joists...the precision and speed were too hard to resist!