Suspended Timber Floor part 2
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 дек 2020
- Here is the kit I use:
Bosch Professional Combi Drill and Impact Driver with Two 18V 4.0 Ah Batteries amzn.to/2owE0mK
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Circular Saw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
amzn.to/2IGTwDv
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Multi-Cutter with 2 x 18 V 5 Ah Batteries and 16 Accessories
amzn.to/2AYPOAM
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Jigsaw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
amzn.to/2IDgTxA
Bosch Professional GAS 35 M AFC Wet/Dry Extractor
amzn.to/2p5iPbj
Bosch Professional GMF 1600 CE Corded 240V Multi-Function Router
amzn.to/35komvb
Occidental Leather 5089 LG Seven Bag Framer Tool Belt
amzn.to/2OAjlc4
Occidental Leather 5355 Stronghold Comfort Package
amzn.to/2VuRF9U
Hikoki Nail Gun
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...
Bosch Table Saw & leg stand
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...
Damp Proof Membrane
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...
18mm Chipboard Flooring
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53... 
Хобби
Just bulk watched the extension, built my own and wish I'd videod it, when doing the joists one other way is to nail the joists in at the sides so u can tap the level up or down and fit the hangers after 👍
That's a great tip! I wish we'd done that because it sounds like a much quicker way to be reliable!
Great video mate. Extremely helpful the way you explain everything. Cant wait for the next stages of the build.
Loving how this is coming together mate. Fascinating series! 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
That’s a really big job you are under taking. Nice and neat , great video keep them coming 👌👍
that's is going to be a massive kitchen dinner and utility room very good progress happy xmas.
Subscribed earlier... this really enforces the need for good building practices and materials. This would be more than I would want to take on in a reno... in Canada I'd be looking to sell, buy property and build from scratch. My hat goes off to you. You're the man... sorry, Office Boy Builder
Cheers mate!
It would have been quicker and easier to build from scratch rather than trying to extend and attach, but land is so expensive here it doesn't quite work that way. Thanks for supporting the channel!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder I really do appreciate your geographic limitations, but I applaud all the more that it doesn't stop you... and that Sir OBB is the lesson I've learned today. Tyvm
Excellent youtube channel , great video equality and content, thanks
came across this by accident. Just subscribed .
Dead level so that is good hahahhaa so many times you said that, there’s nothing more satisfying than a level floor is there mate 👍
water & tube method is a great way to check levels at great distances & around bends etc.
You could have run the new floor joists the other way parallel to rear elevation with an intermediate support wall. That would have left space for air vents into existing house at the back.
Following this build with interest, have done the same and just finishing all internal and kitchen at the minute.
Regards the joists, how come you haven’t built in joist hangers into the new walls then run off these into the house floor?
Architect specked the wrong type of bolt for the chemicial fix, basically should be stud bar and washers so you could've tightened them. great work..
Cheers mate, a couple of people have suggested that, and I can see a lot of merit in that method. If I had known I was allowed to deviate slightly from what has been specified, then I would have switched that type in.
I am not a fan of "ledger" support technique, but what do I know, it is adopted by most small builders because it is cost effective; a development of the very old technique of building the timber ends into the wall. I wonder if there are any builders using the the alternative methods? I don't see them on RUclips, so winning jobs precludes the other techniques I presume. I think an automatic level / staff which are very good value would be more reliable and quicker for this situation, but it is another lump of kit ready to be stolen. Great commentary.
You had the joist held up off the floor with a 100mm brick whilst you bolted it, but a suspended floor should have a minimum of 150mm from the sub floor to the underside of your joists, how was you able to get this passed?
You didn't show how you bolted timbers together... would've been nice to see how it's done
How are you fixing you pole/ledger plates to your sub walls? I can see the bolts? But holding you haven’t just pumped in chemfix resin and pushed them in? Hoofing nuts tightened on the other side? Else you want studs with nuts to get a solid tight fixing, looks look nice, solid and level either way!
It is just chemfix in the concrete blockwork - that's what was specifies by my structural engineer, so I figured I'd stick to that. I added extra bolts in, and ensured each of them was a tight snug fit, and there is honestly not a mm of movement on them.
Great video, just what I was looking for in terms of ledger support for suspended timber flooring. Just a quick question. My house has joists running into an external wall brickwork (old school way of doing it I know). Seeing as I'm planning a pretty big reno on the house I thought I'd tackle this before it potential becomes an issue. I am thinking of cutting them back and hanging them from a ledger board. My question is, could I put a layer of XPS insulation between the ledger and external brickwork to act as a DPC and reduce thermal bridging? If so what thickness would you recommend? Thanks
Hey, I think it's a great idea in principle, and always good to have additional insulation. However it's very hard to comment about whether it's strong enough when there's a layer of something like XPS or EPS in between. In my mind that weakens the joint, but in reality it might be ok. Best to check with your SE.
I haven't ever seen that done before, and would hazard a guess that it isn't strictly necessary, given that the thermal transfer of timber is pretty low anyway...best of luck!
Nice video. Don't know if you've constructed sleeper walls (topped with a wall plate) midway in an area so that the joists can sit on them? I'm in the middle of modelling a suspended timber floor and was wondering if 3 honeycomb sleeper walls in an area sounds okay; one right in the middle, and one at either end so that the joists can span to the middle from both sides. Does that sound sensible to build or would you do it another way? Thanks.
Edit: Or would you just have 1 honeycomb sleeper wall in the middle and have the other ends of the joists fixed into the walls either side?
That's a really smart idea, and I think would be beneficial.
I didn't technically need one for the span, but I ended up wanting one because of the flex in the timber.
Instead of constructing one, I put large wedges of 8x3 on a little off-cut of DPM, and knocked them under the joists in 6 locations evenly distributed around the area. It is super quick and cheap doing that, and because I used two rows of noggins across the span, it ended up being very strong.
Just make sure you don't knock the wedges in so much that it causes a bow in the floor!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Thanks for the reply. That does indeed sound very sturdy!
First the worse, second the best!
Christ that a few bob of insulation........cost so much money that stuff. Great to see how its coming along. Hope your water tight by now.
Just!! Will do a little sneak-peak update in a few days...!
14:00 that 9x2 set in concrete, won’t that draw moisture up and rot the joist?
I've put a DPM layer in between to stop that from happening 🤞
Is all that insulation from 2nds and co? How have you found the quality If so?
Yes mate it is. To be honest, some of it doesn't look like it should be seconds at all...! Some of it will need expanding foam for a few gaps, but that's pretty standard anyway, unless you're using gapotape (which is super expensive!). Also I've got a vapour control barrier inside, which does a lot to stop air-flow, as much as moisture.
Did you get any problems with the wall plate being below dpc level?
No, not at all thankfully - the wall plate is on top of the DPM, and the suspended timber floor is fully wrapped inside the DPM layer, so no issues with that.
It was specified by the SE, and signed off by building control, so all kosher.
Would you not put the floor on first before the walls and easier platform to work from
Usually you would, except in this instance, the walls are being build on top of the brick/DPM, and because of the vapour control layer and DPM lap on the floor, I want the walls to run down onto the flooring, rather than the other way round.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder i know what you are doing we all have are own ways of doings things there's no better way than your own way
Would it not of been easy to insulate and screed that ? I'd imagine the cost difference is marginal and would be a far superior floor ? And why did you not get apl the blockwork up and roofed in beef joint installation? Good job
That's a fair question. I'm playing to my strengths - carpentry. I'm not a general contractor/builder, and didn't feel confident to have a go at something I'm not familiar with. I've done quite a few suspended floors over the years, I like the feel of them under foot, and it's mostly in keeping with the rest of the house (kitchen not withstanding). Also the architect/structural engineer knows I do carpentry and stuck to a timber frame brief for that reason. The walls have kick-ass U-values, far better than brick, and while there's probably a strong argument for a poured concrete floor with a full insulation layer in it too, I felt happier with the cost and time to put in a suspended floor. Hope that answers it honestly and fairly!
Sure does fair play mate great content
Concrete slabs are desperately cold, suspended timber floors are warmer and far nicer under foot. Standing on concrete is a killer on the back especially if one has a back injury as I have. I really dislike concrete and steel, there's far too much of it in British and Irish houses. Of course the steel and concrete lobbies are very strong. I'd put as much timber as I could into a house, but of course as a carpenter/joiner/cabinet maker, tree surgeon i'm partial, 👍🔨🌲🇮🇪
Will this flooring setup pass Building Control?
Yes it will (and did) because I followed the structural engineer's specifications to the letter...that's typically how you pass, doing as told, rather than what seems best 😂💪
@@OfficeBoyBuilder , I was just wondering, as I don’t see this method being done to much anymore.
It's all good mate - I wasn't being sarcastic, it's the truth oddly...you can build with all sorts of random methods, but so long as you stick to what you're told, it'll often be signed off!
I thought it had to have more of an air gap? I had similar set up at my own house and was advised to go solid floor slab, suspended would been easier :|
@@nathanmoor9721 Suspended timber floors are far superior for a variety of reasons, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Are these 2x 8?
Yes they are ☝️👍
Is it just me or are those sizes timbers a bit OTT?
Lol yeah we all said that... structural engineers seem to add 2+2 and get 5.5 😂🙈
What is the structure of your subfloor?
We have 8x3 timbers for joists, then because I want the floor height to finish flush with the sliding doors, we're overboarding with 11mm OSB before putting down the 22mm chipboard (which has the underfloor heating integrated with it). Because of the grooves routed out for the heating pipes you need to put a 6mm skin of ply over the top, and then the finished floor (in our case LVT). It's very rigid!!
Are the timbers treated?
Yes mate, all C24 as specc'd by the SE.
First!
So many schoolboy errors.... Painfully to watch..
So stop watching and stop commenting...problem solved
@@OfficeBoyBuilder If we stop watching, we stop learning......
You're clearly best off learning from someone else. Just stop watching me and you'll be fine
@@OfficeBoyBuilder On the contrary, you demonstrate perfectly how not to do things...
Then you haven't learned anything. If you already know how not to do it, you haven't learned something...what a moron.