Underfloor heating in a suspended wood floor | Insulation | Screed
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- Опубликовано: 1 май 2021
- As part of our internal house renovations, we had underfloor heating installed across the whole of the downstairs. This is the method our builders used and it has been extremely effective. This has enabled us to easily keep the downstairs at a constant temperature throughout the year and has actually reduced our heating bill.
The insulation is held in place with battens and a reasonable layer of screed is placed on top over the insulation and underfloor heating pipe. At the time, I trusted the builders with their method, but do think a vapour barrier would have been a good idea between the floor joists and the engineered wood floor laid on top. What do you think? What would you have done differently? Karen
#underfloorheating #suspendedtimberfloor #insulatedfloor #underfloorheatingsuspendedwoodenfloor
Disclaimer: The following DIY video is for information purposes only. It is intended to demonstrate how to perform a specific task or project, and should not be considered professional advice. Viewers should exercise caution and take appropriate safety measures when attempting any of the techniques or procedures shown in the video. The creator of this video is not responsible for any damage, injury, or loss that may result from the use or misuse of the information provided. Always consult with a qualified professional before attempting any home improvement or repair projects. 
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The vapour barrier goes between the hot and cold surfaces to prevent condensation. In this case the aluminium foil on the insulation board is the vapour barrier.
Doesn't the vapour barrier need to extend across the joists?
@@mramg6038yes, I used aluminium foil tape for this.
Thank you for sharing this project. Excellent work
Thanks for watching!
So glad to see someone did something similar to me, good work with this, it's so hard to judge what to do with all the different advice out there!
I agree! I don’t think it was a perfect installation, but at the time it was all the knowledge we had at the time. Though I have to admit the builders did the actual work, but we all agreed on the process. Thanks for watching. Karen
@@OurHomeProjects Hi Karen, I'm actually really close to starting undefloor heating and like you, I imagine. I've been trying to research which methods would be best and really want to stay away from putting a lot of hardcore and conrete down but I think this is finally the video I've been looking for! Has anyone compared it to concrete underfloor heating? Does this method work just as good? Regards and thank you, I appreciate this is quite old now! Kieran!
Hi Kieran, apologies I'm not able to answer your comparison question. All I can say is our natural gas consumption did go down after this installation, but whether that was just down to insulating from our huge cavity or if the UFH is more efficient than the previous radiators, I cannot say. Depending on how much it would cost to fill your cavity with concrete, I would say the concrete fill would potentially retain more heat as there is a larger mass to hold the heat than the thin layer of screed in my setup. HTH.
@@OurHomeProjects Hi Karen!! Thank you for replying, I've only just by chance come across this, I didn't get a notification, I've just popped another comment on haha sorry! Have you had any issues since with it cracking or anything such like? Kind regards and thanks! Kieran.
@@snowboard9292how old is your property? Recently weighed this up mid reno/extension of our 1930s house in Dorset ongoing as we speak. Arguments against infilling with concrete include but not limited to; whacking the sub base material likely to damage old brickwork, not being able to dress DPM into mortar bed then not allowing any absorbed moisture from the footings to be vented out (mould risk?), using modern concrete fill on a building mostly made with lime mortar seems risky plus any future movement could result in the brickwork at top of concrete level and other areas cracking, not being able to access any services, stairway newell post would be an issue and the list goes on. It sounds great in an ideal world but there are plenty of potential issues with not much gain. That is before we talk about the cost of the type 1 and concrete to fill the void, especially as air is free! Good luck with your project, happy to discuss as i jnow what it’s like weighing up umpteen issues at once with no real definite answers, only opinions!
Looks great! Do you have any radiators in the rooms where you have underfloor heating? We are considering switching from radiators to underfloor but not sure if we will be warm enough! Thanks :)
Hi Roger, thanks for watching. We don’t have any radiators downstairs, only the underfloor heating, which does an excellent job with the insulation underneath. However, I do still enjoy hugging a radiator upstairs! Out underfloor heating has two runs of pipe between each joist, so my only suggestion would be to make sure you have plenty of pipe work running back and forth to ensure you get enough heat. Hope that helps. Karen
Thank you very much for sharing this project 🥇❤ we are planning to do the same and it has helped us a lot. I thought we could skip the dry screed.🥇❤️
It’s the dry screed that spreads the heat under the wood flooring. If you don’t add that then it will only be warm where the pipe is. HTH. Thanks for watching.
@@OurHomeProjects Hi Karen, thank you for your kind answer.
I am not familiar with the PUG system but it looks very similar. We used a thin layer of a very dry mix. Good luck with your project!
Where did you get your underfloor heating pipe from? And how thick was the layer of screed? Thanks :)
Unfortunately, I don’t have a record of the underfloor heating pipe other than the brand name ‘Continental’ as the builders purchased it. The screed layer was as deep as the pipe, no more than 1”. HTH
Hi, nice informative video. question, did you need to put insulation between the screed and the walls?
Not quite sure what you’re asking, but the underfloor heating didn’t stretch to the room edges due to furniture placement but the builders did lay the insulation and dry screed the full length and width of the floor, so up to the walls. HTH. Karen
Hi this is an amazing video , so helpful and cleared a lot of doubt ! May i know who did the UFH for you.
Glad you found it useful. The builders that did our renovation recommended this method. We're in Hertfordshire.
Thanks for making the video. Really helpful to see what the actual process is. How long did the screed take to dry? Thanks!
Hi Olivia, glad it was helpful. We didn't turn the underfloor heating on to dry the screed, we let it go off naturally, which took a few days, but no more than a week. It was in the middle of a wet Autumn so humidity was high as we didn't even have radiator central heating on at the time. Good luck with your project! Karen
Looks great! What temperature do you run your boiler for heat? I'm guessing the underfloor heating needs a lower temperature than radiators for upstairs? I'm not sure how you run both at different temperatures!
Hi Robo, I’m afraid I’ve no idea how the plumber connected the manifold. I think our boiler is on 60deg. Each section has its own thermostat. It’s been 7 years since it was done and - touch wood - haven’t had issues. HTH. Karen
My limited under standing is the manifold will have a thermostatic mixer valve to mix water from the boiler with returning water from the heating to bring it down to a temperature.
Those type of floor heating doesn't need warmer water than 28'C. Might be a bit higher in shower area on tiled floor where everything needs to dry fast.
Can I ask where you put the manifolds for each room.These are quite unsightly things which need to be acessed occasionally.
Hi there, the mainfolds went in the cupboard with the boiler. I believe they are usually sited near each other, but I'm not a builder so double check that. It makes sense for our setup as you can see the actuators that do the radiators upstairs, the hot water and the UFH manifold. HTH
Is it better if the mix touches the subfloor? I am using acoustic tape on top of the joists and not sure if I should compact the dry mix to the top of the joist or the top of the tape. The tape is only 3mm but worried that an air gap would affect heat transfer.
Hi Neal, I am not an expert on this, but my builders did fully fill the dry mix between the insulation and the finished engineered wood floor which sat directly on the joists (no chipboard). The mix dries very quickly and stays dry so you really do need it touching your finished floor to receive any benefit. HTH and good luck with your project 👍
@@OurHomeProjects Thank you Karen, it's amazing that you're still answering comments a year later!
Which underfloor heating system is this? Where did you get the pipe and clips from?
It has Continental Underfloor on the manifold and Continental on the thermostats. It came as a kit with everything included for our sized rooms.
Hello thank you for the video. How long does it take to feel the warmth from the floor? Thank you
Sorry for the late reply. UFH runs at a lower temp to radiators and it takes a couple of hours for the room to get up to temperature, but stays at a constant temp for longer due to the insulation etc.
Great video, I'll be doing something very similar in the near future for both ground and first floors in my house. I am curious to know, did you lay subfloor (ply or OSB) before laying the finished floor? Couldn't tell from the video but it didn't look like it. Are sections of the floor now sagging underfoot or solid when walking? Thanks
Hi Armen, the engineered oak went straight onto the floor joists. If you add another layer then heat transfer will be slowed and will severely impact on how warm the room gets. No sagging of the boards as they are laid perpendicular to the joists. Hope this helps! Karen
Hi we have t&g flooring on joists. Does the floor heating work as well as having tiles instead of timber! I ask because it's a bedroom.
Hi Joseph, thanks for watching. Not sure what you're asking? As long as your flooring is directly next to the underfloor heating, either tiles or engineered wood would be ok. I think proper wood flooring is quite thick and might not let the heat through as much as it's a natural insulator. Tiles are a good conductor of heat. We were advised not to have woodchip boards or anything between the flooring and joists as it's just adding another insulating layer and less heat will come up into the room. HTH.
Hi Karen, Thanks for the video. I'm looking at doing the exact same, but noticed that you did not include a structural floor in your installation (i.e. plywood or OSB board after screed to support the flooring above.) Can you confirm this please?
It looks like the battens fitted below the joist are doing well to support the insulation and screed as well as the engineered wood above spreading the weight to the joist. Thanks
Hi, sorry for the slow reply. If you add another layer of wood in between your finished floor and the underfloor heating pipe, you're blocking even more heat from coming up through the floor. The engineered wood floor was nailed into the joists at various locations. HTH
would it be better, now that we are about to see massive increases in energy costs, to have added another layer of screed, thereby covering the joists entirely, and use that as the working/standing surface? (rather than just lay screed between the joists and then put a layer of wood over it, which will reduce the heat output), or will that not be strong enough to support the weight of everything that goes into a room?
If you plan to add more screed then you would need to make sure the joists can manage the extra weight. You will also need to consider your flooring as our wood floor was nailed directly into the joists with hidden nails in the tongue. That wouldn’t be possible with extra screed over the joists. I’m not a builder, these are just my observations 👍 Karen
Hello…how is the insulation between the joists supported? Is it just tightly wedged or sitting on battens? Thank you.
Hi there, thanks for watching. Both actually, they are supported by battens, particularly as we have such a deep cavity, but the pieces are also tight fitting. However, a few areas are a little snug and they squeak when you step on them, but thankfully those spots are near the edges of the room.
Best way to install is to put under each joist a board that is like 4 inch wider than joist so it will protrude both side few inches. Then you cut all those PIR boards 1 inch more narrow than cavity and use flexible expanding foam all around and every seam. That way those won't ever move when they are supported both side and also foam glues them in place making every seam also air tight.
Karen, you forgot to mention what you did with your furniture and stuff while there was no floor and how you lived. We have a tough time moving one room of stuff to have the carpet cleaned. How long did all this take? Good luck.
Hi Greg, the internal renovations took about 3 months. The builders converted the old garage into a room for us first and once that was finished, we moved everything into there and the conservatory until the rest of the downstairs was finished. The best use of a conservatory is for storage! haha. Downstairs we knocked the kitchen and dining room together and created a new utility and bathroom in the space between the garage and the house. We tried to keep upstairs as normal as possible for the kids, so they had their rooms to hang out in. Not pleasant living in a building site, but as they say - short term pain for long term gain! Thanks for supporting the channel. Really appreciate it. Karen
Any pics of how it was screeded? I guess just trowel off concrete to the joists
Sorry, I didn’t get any action shots at the time, but yes, it was just slightly compacted and smoothed level with the joist with a trowel.
Brilliant video, mind me asking why you used concrete and not the aluminium heat spreaders?
Hi Kyle, thanks for watching. To answer your question it was purely because the aluminium spreaders didn’t exist at the time. This was done almost 10 years ago now. Just looked up the product and it looks good. Just to clarify, we used a screed mix and not a strong concrete. The screed was quite dry (of course had some water but not much). Hope that helps. Karen
@@OurHomeProjects we're about to do this. And I'm deciding between what you've done here and those plates. The reason I like what you've done is it creates a thermal mass so should 'hold' heat. The spreaders should release it equally but when the heating is off, it'll cool down quicker. But they're a lot cheaper 😂😂
Hi Kyle, you are right about the screed retaining the heat. The floor stays warm long after the heating has gone off, particularly the tiled area in the kitchen. Or perhaps I should say it cools slowly because of the screed. You’ll only want to do it once so might be worth the extra investment? Good luck!
@@OurHomeProjects Sorry to bother you again Karen. What temperature does your underfloor heating run at? I've just calculated the concrete and it's not that greater cost as far as the gains are concerned. We're also looking at the sun amp product to heat it, which would then run off solar panels. I'm changing my mindset to what you've mentioned here. Do it once, and then never again. The aluminium panels would squeak as they heat up.
Hi Kyle, there doesn't appear to be a separate temperature control for the underfloor manifold - the water going in is the same as the upstairs radiators, for which the boiler is set to 60 degrees. To be honest the way heating bills are going, if you can get anything solar installed that can only be a win. We don't get any squeaking with our method, apart from the odd engineered wood board squeaking when you stand on it (some days no squeak, other days a different one might squeak!), but I think that's more about the wood expanding rather than anything to do with the plastic pipes and insulation. We were told to make sure the kingspan wasn't too snug as this could cause squeaking if it had nowhere to go when the joists expand. HTH. Would love to know what you go with in the end. Karen
Hi Karen,how you compare kitchen floor to rest of the house??Reason am asking is we looking for tiles all ground floor exept living room,thank Luke
Hi Luke, we feel the warmth across all floor material types, the tiles might hold it slightly longer, but the wood is excellent too. We have one area in the bay window of the kitchen where the underfloor heating stops and you can really feel the difference between where it’s warm and it isn’t. As our flooring is laid on wood joists, the grout has cracked a bit in the kitchen (despite the tiler using a flexible layer between the chipboard and tiles). The engineered wood moves a bit anyway, but isn’t noticeable as there’s no grout. Hope this helps. Karen
@@OurHomeProjects thanks.I always use ditra mat for tiling on sheeting materials and never had problems,also whole my ground floor is suspended on joists like yours thats the reason im asking.Thanks for your reply.
Good luck with your project!
Hi Karen, firstly, thank you for documenting this because it's very helpful to many people, including myself!
My wife and I would like UFH and like yourself we too have a suspended floor so will be exploring the route that you took. One question I did have is whether this system can be used with original floor boards, or do you have to switch over to engineered wood which can handle expansion/contraction a bit better? We have some really nice old pine floor boards which we'd like to keep but not sure if this would work with that.
Also, the floorplan which shows the layout of the pipes - did you get that from the UFH provider?
Hi Afnan, thanks for watching. Our builders recommended the engineered wood as it was slightly thinner than the original floorboards (plus it was hard work getting our floorboards up without damaging them). Wood is an insulator itself so could stop/slow down the heat coming up through the floor if it’s too thick. The tiles in the kitchen area definitely conduct the heat through more than the wood floor. However, of course we still do get a lot of warmth through the engineered wood. Also it is supposedly more stable, but it was more about the thickness for us. It would be a shame to lose your nice boards, so perhaps lay some back down but not secured and test it out before making the decision? Might not be practical though if you need a proper floor back quickly! Sorry it doesn’t give you an answer, but hope it helps. Karen
Hey, hopefully I can help. From what I have found in my research, UFH is best with engineered as solid doesn't do well when shrinking and expanding, also when factoring in if it ever gets wet, the heat would add more trouble. This is what multiple searches online had shown me when I was in a similar position to you!
Makes sense to me. Thanks for watching and commenting Michael.
I've never seen a vapour barrier between the screed and the floor finish, It's usually beneath the screed.
Hi Icaros, thanks for the comment. I’m guessing one should have been added somewhere! Would love to understand the reasons why you suggest that location. I guess any vapour going through the floor into the screed would just evaporate back up?
What is the efficiency like in the kitchen with the chipboard? Was it 18mm chipboards?
Unfortunately I can’t remember the depth of the chipboard, but it lets enough heat through and the tiles are actually warmer than the engineered wood floor.
Did you do the upstairs too or is that rads?
Thanks for watching. Rads upstairs from the existing system.
Hello
I am in process of installing water underfloor heating. As part of the project the contractor is also moving the boiler from kichen to garage.
My question is when the project completed what kind of certificate and documentation should I get for the underfloor heating installation and for moving the boiler for my future record.
Can you please list out what should I get from the company on completion please.
Thanks,
Hi there, unfortunately I have no idea. I would suggest contacting your local building control team for their advice.
you mention at the end of the video to have a vapour barrier between the screed and the engineered floor: Why? moisture from below or from above?
Hi, thanks for watching. I believe some builders put a vapour barrier between the floor and the screed if you’re trying to make a vapour tight room, ie a barrier on all walls, ceiling and floor. However, our old house will never be that sealed so wasn’t worth putting in. I’m not a builder so not 100% sure if that’s correct. Hopefully someone with more knowledge might comment 👍
Another amazing job Karen where do you get the energy? J and g
Hi Garry, thanks, wasn’t me this time, but thought others might be interested as I haven’t seen many installs using this method. Enjoy the rest of the long weekend. Karen
PS just spotted your email 🙂
What did you do with the empty space between joists and below? Did you fill in?
Hi, as our house is on a steep hill the void varies from 3ft deep to almost 5ft deep so we can’t fill it in.
If for example you don’t have the underfloor heating but insulate the underfloor will it make a big difference still?
Thanks for watching. I think any suspended floor with air circulating below it would benefit from insulation between the joists, but I’m not a builder!
Yea it will. Ant insulation will reduce heat loss. Something that I discovered to bear in mind is that double the thickness of insulation is double the cost but doesn't double the insulation value, so plan and research carefully to save wasting money.
It will, particularly to the comfort-feel. Cold feet means discomfort, no matter how warm your top half! Quite a lot of the improvement is also stopping cold air coming up through cracks.
Hi Karen, I know this video was a long time ago, have you had any problems with the screed cracking with just a simple battom holding it all up? I'm very close to putting underfloor heating down in my property but I'm worried the joists will move slightly and crack the screed!
Hi, once the wood floor went down we haven’t seen the screed since! I’m sure it probably has cracked in places, but we still get a constant even heat under foot, so appears to still be doing a good job. 👍
@@OurHomeProjects Right that's positive then! No cold spots at all? I might give it a go! How much support did you put under the joists in terms of how much timber to support the screed? In terms of the battens, how many did you need and far spaced were they?
@@OurHomeProjectsHi, can I ask, I'm very close to going for a joist, screed floor! But what type of timber did you use to hold the insulation boards up with and screed? I've bought a load of roofing lats.
DONT cut joists, put breathable membrain at bottom or over each joist make a pocket then put insulation inbetween joists , like you have done put more battons . wood sub floor down , t and g floor boards p5 , sub floor . Then put pipes and stuff on insulation board then screed if weight can take it or get egg shell trays, and tile on that .
How effective is your wet under floor heating on a suspended timber floor? Does it heat the room on very cold days? We are thinking of having this done to a kitchen extension with suspended floors. My neighbour had it and he says the under floor heating doesn’t work. How did you make it effective?
Hi there, our UFH is effective however as with any UFH it takes time to warm up the room. It also runs at a lower water temp than traditional radiators. So we have it set to come on around 5am and it’s still a little on the cool side at 7:30am, but once it’s up to temp it maintains a nice even temp throughout the day. At 9pm the thermostat changes to 16 degrees over night.
The key I feel is not to have too thick a piece of wood or tiles on top of the pipe work. You can see our engineered wood floor is nailed directly onto the joists and not chipboard. Hope that helps!
You installed floor directly over UFH ? There is no need for ply boards or something similar ?
Hi, thanks for watching. The more layers you add the less heat will come through so we attached the final flooring directly onto the joists. If you have thin flooring like karndean then you will need the extra boarding. HTH. Karen
@@OurHomeProjects I'm aware of heat loss. The problem is that on suspended floors (typical UK house), you cannot put too much weight. I had to put chipboards and then the engineering floor. I'm not happy with that solution but had no choice. Downstairs I put a dry screed between the joist (there is 100mm kingspan below) but on top I had to put chipboards. Unless you really know what I could do to replace the chipboards ??
Hi Marcin, I'm afraid I can't help any further. My builders advised we didn't have to put the chipboard down, but perhaps our joists were a different size to yours etc. Have you completed the project? Do you feel the heat ok? Karen
@@OurHomeProjects Upper floor done. I have insulation between the ceiling and floor. Then between the joist Celotex 75mm and aluminium plates (12.5mm distance from each pipe row). On the plates, I put chipboard and then engineered floor.
There is a temp sensor under the engineered floor to measure the temp. This is because that type of timber should not be heated above 27deg.
The problem is that I cannot control it. I have a valve on the manifold and the lowest temp I can set is about 32deg. So I reached 28deg multiple times.
In terms of heating the room. Well.... these are not radiators. It takes a few hours to warm up the room from 15 to 21deg, but my understanding is that UFH you just setup once and leave "forever".... You need to plan ahead your room temp. It is not like you have 17deg in the room and want 19 or 20, next hour.
I never had UFH so this is new to me.
Hi Marcin, I'm afraid I can't help you re the manifold. I have no idea if our engineered flooring has a max temp, but I would say it never gets more than 25 underfoot. You are right about planning temperatures - downstairs comes on an hour earlier than upstairs as it takes a while to heat up. However, we do feel we get a more consistent heat across the whole of downstairs and it's very nice underfoot! We're not sure if it's cheaper or more expensive as we had the underfloor heating put in when we moved in, so used to the cost. However, we do plan to look at solar down the line to heat our heating and hot water.....down the line....! Good luck with the rest of your project.
You didn't show the piperun between the joists. Do you have pictures? Also what is the heat source, ie heat pump?
Hi, the joists had small notches removed where the underfloor heating pipe crossed a joist. We do have a thermal store for our hot water and heating system but sadly found the heat pumps too expensive at the time (this was done around 2013/14) so we run a standard gas boiler.
@@OurHomeProjects Bless you for all your question-answering, which has added a lot to the amount of very useful info - I feel pretty sure a lot of housing in the UK could benefit from this kind of retro install, but the info is still patchy.
I was assuming from one of your answers that you had a gas boiler, and I'm thinking about an install with an air heat pump - it looks as though the improvements to those are finally coming along, different refrigerants making them able to run hotter more efficiently (good for keeping radiators smaller, not necessary for the underfloor heating).
I like your solution as it appears to combine the benefits by having a relatively small amount of thermal mass (the screed) - some retention of heat but not so much that adjustment is perhaps too slow.
Thanks so much for showing.
@@sroberts605 Thanks for commenting and I'm glad you found the info useful. I'm sure there are newer ways and products out there now since we did this, but our setup is still going strong. Good luck with the heat pump installation (yes we are still on gas).
Hi what's the thickness of the chipboards. Are tiles still fine on the chipboard??
Hi, unfortunately I don’t know the thickness of the chipboard. An anti-movement mesh was laid on top before the tiles. The tiles haven’t cracked, but the grout has in places.
@@OurHomeProjects what's the depth of your floor joists. Mine are 100mm and told not to use screed as joists are not that strong. Use spreader plates on top of insulation.
I believe ours are 200mm as they span quite a distance. The house was built in the 1930’s.
@@OurHomeProjectsdid you use Pex pipe or Pert. And is it 12mm or 16mm?
Do you feel you should have a radiator installed aswell as pipes only heat up the floor and not the room.
I can’t answer your first questions, but we do find the UFH provides an even comfortable heating of the room. The downside is it takes a few hours to get up to temperature as UFH uses a lower temp water than radiators. We enjoy having clear wall space free from radiators, but that is personal preference.
great
Thanks for watching!
I hope it works ok never seen it done like that ?
Hi, we’ve had it in place 10 years now and it’s still performing well 👍
I don’t understand this! What is holding the weight of the insulation plus the heavy screed on top? Just two battens? Also i thought it was wrong to weaken joists by notching them?
Thanks for watching. The battens are strong enough to hold everything. There isn’t a huge amount of screed, it’s a light dry mix less than an inch thick. It’s to simulate the same effect a warm tile offers. Hope this clarifies things.
Re joist notching, due to the height/depth of our joists the builders calculated the small notch wouldn’t compromise the floor structure as it only had to be notched in a few places. However, I am not a builder and other people have mentioned it might not be the correct way to proceed. Everyone’s floor joists are different so you need to get your own assessment before notching. HTH.
Having a similar installation in my 1930s house. I don’t suppose you know the depth of the screed?
Hi there, it was only about 2-3cm deep, a very dry mix too. In fact it was the depth of the pipe plus 5mm-ish on top. HTH Karen
Hi Karen
Thank you for sharing. I have a problem with screed things with my builder. They say it doesn’t need any screed even there is some air gap existence.
But I’ll try to make them job properly. Please let me know what was the “ dry screed” ‘s name?
Hi, sorry I’ve only just seen this. It was just a dry screed. The way my builders did it is one way of doing this, however, I’m sure there are other ways. The purpose of the screed was to help retain heat between the wood, sort of like tiles retain warmth once heated. We do find the floor is hottest where the pipes are laid, but this does fan out across the rest of the floor, I’m assuming because the screed is helping to retain the heat.
Ours was a similar dry screed. Apparently called a lean mix or biscuit screed.
We asked for as much insulation to be laid. They battened it under the joists. So far so good. We had our chimney alcoves covered with insulated plasterboard too to help reduce heat loss through our solid brick walls.
Thanks Karen and Tristan for your comment.
My small conflict has been over. As we didn’t have plenty of time to dry up the screed, I asked the builder to cover with dry sand. I went to purchase 220kg dry sand. Even though they still doubt my request , the had done perfectly.
But we decided to leave one room without the sand. Therefore we can detect the sand idea is effective or meaningless.
Today is the first day of test running the UFH system.
It worked very very well.
I’m so happy .
I appreciate you and this video.
I have to solve the another problem now. The room ,without sand.
Oh dear - never put anti drill steel plates over piping where its knotched through floor joists... Big mistake
Hi Dean, thanks for watching. Not sure what you mean? Is there a point in the video where you see something? Karen
I think Dean means you did not put any anti drill steel plates over the notched joist, through which the UFH pipe passes, to cover the gap . When the sub floor is laid down ( OSB or timber sheets) anyone can accidentally drill/screw/nail through the sub floor and puncture the UFH pipe underneath as they won't know where the pipe /notch is.
Ahhh, that makes sense now. Thank you. The builders didn’t add them and when the wood floor was installed we had a puncture in the underfloor heating which did need a repair. Clearly that is what happened and the wood installer found a notched bit by mistake.
Notching top of joists BIG no no!