Not sure if you're in the salt belt or not, but if you are; I'd suggest cleaning that off and hitting it hard with some implement paint. I did three coats, scuffing between, and then waxed the underside. 2 years later in the NE , it looks brand new still. It was beginning to rust when I got the truck. Also, neverseize or grease the bolts. Funny, you are missing the screws on the front too. I wonder how that happened (PO probably took it to SuperLubber or the Stealer.)
Why dont they put the drain plug in a position where the oil drains straight down? That would be a lot less messier than trying to guess how far the oil is going to shoot out of the pan.
This was a great video! Would you consider doing a video of cleaning out the drain tube on the AC drain port? I can't find a video anywhere but if not I may do it myself. Thanks!
My stock (plastic) filter housing cracked when I put the new filter in. I ended up buying an aftermarket (metal) housing to install which should last a lot longer than the plastic one. Not sure why toyota would make that filter housing plastic.
You know, I hear a lot of people commenting about this issue. I think I will proactively order one to prevent the same issue. Thank you for commenting and watching!
My wife did not want anyone near her '15 Tundra in this COVID period and asked if would change her oil and filter. Sure, I said. When I was twenty-something, had more time than money, I always did our oil changes, and it was about a half hour, maybe, start to finish. This sucked. Cost me more to do it myself and took over three hours. I had to use a T-wrench to get the filter cover off; I could not get enough leverage with a regular socket wrench. And I never got the deflector shield unhooked, so draining the filter by holding a jar under it turned into a mess. Refastening it was easy enough wedging some 2x4's under it. It's done, and I guess I feel satisfied that I did it and made her happy, but never again. I'm not much worried about the COVID myself. I'll either get it now or six months from now, and if I'm gonna die from it, that won't change. But I play along, because I don't expect I will get to earn a living again until some government epidemiologist says I can.
Don’t know if it helps, but usually once I change my Tundras engine oil, I turn the key to the on position (for electronics on, not for cranking starting) then I shift into neutral and back down the ramps and onto a level surface. Then I can crank the engine while it’s level. Not sure if it helps oil distribution or the oil pickup, just some habit my dad and I started doing years ago just to ensure a good first crank after each oil change, especially in case we were low on fluid or something😂idk fun stuff
Cool. I totally understand your concept. I have never really considered doing so. I just might start doing that because proactively following other's experiences is wise. Thank you for watching!
LOL. Your tracking history at its best. The computer cookies and on-line accounts track what you watch and visit. It does the same thing to me. Thank you for frequently visiting my channel!
An "Ah Ha!" moment! I now know why my 2012 Tundra Platinum with tow package requires 9 quarts of oil when the manual says 7.(something). It's the tow package stupid! Thanks! By the way, it's important to put some oil on that filter O-ring, large one. I mistakenly thought there was enough residual oil in the cartridge sleeve that I did not need to oil the o-ring. Oh how wrong I was. Developed a leak from the new $9 WIX filter and I had to replace with a new $9 WIX filter, and, two more quarts of oil!
Thanks for the feedback. I am so surprised everyone hates FRAM so much! I have probably used that filter brand the most and haven't experienced any ill effects. I'll be more aware.
@@projectfixit People read how bad Fram is but you only replace the element with this system and the Fram filter you used looks better than the OEM filter. I realize looks aren't what counts But all those YT videos that condemn Fram are using looks to draw their conclusions. Besides Fram Ultra is a high quality filter.
I can't believe you got almost 9 quarts in that thing. There is a lot of different reports on how much oil people use. I have the factory tow package and I dump in 8 (instead of 7.9) and I'm dead level on the stick.
@@projectfixit Me neither, it's odd. On the forums people were measuring dipsticks to try to explain the different fill amounts. One of life's mysteries. Great video. 🎄
The only thing is a hard start issue which haunted me. It would take twice as long to start, but I performed a few tasks and eventually resolved it. I have a video on that which does not show exactly what task resolved my issue, but at least it is gone....other than that, I purchased it at 63k miles and have over 105k on it, now. I pull travel trailers occasionally and pull a small animal trailer sometimes. It seems to be quite capable with plenty of power (5.7L) and I love it. The back up camera in mine is awesome comparing to my wife's 2019 CR-V.
I just changed the factory spark plugs at 163,000 miles and they looked great. I really thought they would have been badly degraded. They are great trucks.
I purchased a 2014 one owner crewmax 4x4 with 180000 miles on it and it runs and looks like new... They will go 500000 plus with proper care and maintince.
Owner's manual states 0W-20. It does say you may use 5W-20 as long as the very next oil change is switched back to 0W-20. I personally have only seen 0W-20 in synthetic composition, but I suppose there may be a conventional version out there somewhere.
@@projectfixit Pennzoil has a synthetic blend 0W-20. That's the only OW-20 I've ever seen that is not full synthetic. So why not buy Supertech full synthetic 0W-20 instead of a blend and save money?
@@kingpins9 I've been using synthetc Supertech and the oil level doesn't seem to change during the 5,000 mile oil change. I had no idea that oil from the dealer was so reasonably priced. Guess I'll have to try that.
@@kingpins9 I agree. In fact this is one of the best examples I've seen on how to do the job the right way. Still, if the purpose of a video is to teach others the more thorough the video is, the better. There are some things that if not done correctly will make the job more difficult for the next time. I learned the hard way. One example: some people just tighten up the oil filter cap with the ⅜ inch drive ratchet or extension. The problem with that is next time when you go to take off the drain plug from the oil filter cap, the entire cap comes off. It's not the end of the world but it complicates things a bit for those of us who prefer to drain the filter housing before removing it. It was good to see a socket being used on the oil filter cap wrench. Really not necessary when installing it cause the torque spec is only 18ft.lbs but if it's the slightest bit difficult to take off then the socket is best used to remove the oil filter cap. Many cap wrenches have been broken by trying to remove a stuck oil filter cap using only the ⅜ inch drive ratchet &/or extension. Torque specs... Oil pan drain plug torque: 40 N•m = 30 ft lbs Oil filter cap torque: 25 (±5) N•m = 18 (±3.5) ft lbs Oil filter drain plug torque: 13 N•m = 10 ft lbs I like how you mentioned to be careful not to damage the oil filter cap when removing the o-ring. Almost every video I've seen they use a pick or small screwdriver to remove the large o-ring but you might be surprised to learn that the instructions that come with an OEM filter say not to do that. Only one video I've seen demonstrated how do do it correctly by squeezing the o-ring together with one hand and grabbing it with the other. Not a big deal. I doubt using a pick or screwdriver ever causes a problem for most people. Are you sure the quantity between the two marks on the dip-stick is only one quart? I've always assumed that as well but in reading the owner's manual for our 2009 RAV4, I learned that on our four cylinder, it's actually 1.6 quarts difference.
@@kingpins9 I don't think it would be the same. There's no real reason for it to be the same or to be different. However, there's also no reason for it to be different and since they are both Toyotas, that could be a reason for it to be the same. Or because the Tacoma has a larger capacity that could be a reason for it to be more than 1.6 quarts? But I NEVER said it would be the same, did I? HOWEVER, I JUST CHECKED THE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR a 2014 Tacoma and guess what... The difference between the two marks IS 1.6 quarts. It's on page 409 of the manual.
When reinserting the aluminum cylinder in the middle of the filter, it can be clipped in from the right side labeled one, or the left side labeled B. Which way is it supposed to go? Anyone?
so after going to the dealership for several months I wanted to do one myself to see what was worth 100 bucks.. well after I broke the plastic filter I bought I upgraded to the metal filter I believe aluminum.. my lexus came with one and it says Toyota on it.. so why didn't this 50k truck come with one??
Aluminum or plastic? They both can be problematic. However, if people would follow the torque specs printed right on the oil filter cap neither one should be a problem. Only tighten the oil filter cap to 18 ft.lbs (25 N•m). That's just slightly more than half as tight as the drain plug on the engine (30 ft.lbs.). If the aluminum oil filter cap is over-torqued it can be even more difficult to get off due to galling that can occur from aluminum screwed into aluminum. The only plus is that you would be less likely to break the oil filter cap (but you may be more likely to break the oil filter cap wrench depending on the quality of the tool).
Next time go to a dealer the oil filters are $7.99 that will save you money also you can get a synthetic oil change with rotation for 49.99 if you have Toyota app where you log in and they send you coupons.
Thanks Jack! I will check out the dealer next time to investigate filter and oil pricing. It's good to know sometimes parts aren't marked up too much from the dealer.
Just purchased a OEM filter and drain plug washer at my local dealer for my 17 Tacoma 3.5l v-6 for $7.19. How do you like the Valvoline Syn 0w-20 in your Toyota engine? Seems like all of the other videos feature Mobil 1 0w-20?
@@stephenmaurer7008 The Valvoline 0W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil seems to be working well. No complaints, here. It has great reviews and quite honestly was chosen because it was the best deal available at the store at the time. Thank you for watching my video.
txmung If your swapping between oil brands depending on whatever is on sale at time of purchase,that’s a great way to turn the truck into an oil burner.Only use one brand(all are ok) if possible for duration of owning.
I used just under 9 quarts since my truck has a towing package. ~8.8 quarts....I started with 8 quarts and topped it off until the level was were needed it o the dipstick.
In my case, I must remove the lower shield. I believe they make replacement shields equipped with access ports for the drain plug, but I am not certain.
@@projectfixit .. something weird happened with my last Tundra. The oil screw broke . It deep-fried the engine. Everything welded shut and I had to junk it
falcondrvr200 , I love how the Tacoma has the oil filter right up top AND how there’s a drain on the filter housing you can attach a hose to. Why the don’t use a spin on filter, I’ll never know.
Corvette Ronnie And I discovered something even easier than a hose recently. A regular plastic water bottle fits right under that oil filter drain. Just stuff it down there and over the drain nipple and drain away. Pour contents into your oil pan when done.
I must say, I am glad they position it in an area where oil doesn't drip all over other components. Personally, I hate removing the skid plate. LOL. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I suppose the year of vehicle would determine that. I am not 100% sure if/when the 4.6 switched over to cartridge-style filter. If your truck has the cartridge style filter, then the process is pretty much the same. (I am guessing since I haven't personally changed the oil and filter on that engine you specified.)
Pretty much. The tools are the same and the size of the oil filter cap is the same. The only thing that may be different is the size of the oil filter element and possibly the splash guard ... Of all the Toyotas that use this type of filter system only the 1.8 liter four cylinder (found in Corolla, Prius, etc.) have a smaller oil filter cap and use a smaller cap wrench.
My father told me automobiles use to be like this where you remove a filter cartridge from a filter housing. Why Toyota went to this technique, I am not certain. It probably directly relates to the cost of only producing a filter cartridge vs. an encased metal spin on style with internal filter.
Oil changes on these trucks are reason enough never to buy another one. What a bad design. Spin on oil filters been working for 60 years so lets make it harder and add the potential for 2 or 3 more places for an oil leak. Oh AND lets make the filter housing out of plastic as well. fck me..
Good price. Not around here. One place charged me $76...other dealer wanted to charge me $95..told them to move the other vehicles so I could get my truck out. Wasn't going to pay that much for something so simple. I have an 06 I have changed myself for years. Just ordered the filter wrench to start doing my new one myself.
@@projectfixit i used OEM Toyota oil filters, WIX oil filters or Denso (maker of Toyota oil filters) for my 09 Toyota Tacoma 2.4l. I just purchased a oil filter and drain plug washer from my local dealer for $7.19 (PA state tax included).
@@projectfixit I always buy the TRD oil filters. Few bucks more but soooooo much better of a product. I guarantee once you use them you will not use anything else especially with 10k oil changes. Used them on my 2 4runner's and also (coincidentally enough) same filter for the wife's IS300 Lexus. But I have a tundra that just passed the 25k mile toyota maintenance and will be using one in next oil change in about 3k miles. Also good rule of thumb is 10, 20, 30 lbs torque for each fastener. 10 for drip tube plate, 20 for canister, 30 for drain bolt.
I use OEM Toyota or K&N. I'm not sure there is anything wrong with a Fram element. It's not like you're replacing a spin-on filter with all its parts. It's just an element especially if you do an oil change every 5,000 miles. Besides Fram has three different filters: cheap, economy and ULTRA. The latter looks to be a very good filter. (Likely comparable to the TRD filter)
This is why don’t bother changing my oil any,more. They made a simple tried and true method, so much more complicated. What a joke. It’s cheaper to have Toyota do it than to do it yourself anyway. I hate everything about TOyota. I’ll be going back to ford when I get rid of my tundra. All the plastic crap they slap on these vehicles is out of control. The second gen tundra was cool looking. Now they look like crap.
Some newer Toyotas (Camry, RAV4, ?) have gone back to spin-on filters. It's a shame but that's what happens. That's why a lot of cars no longer offer a manual transmission. Demands of the customers.
After watching the video, I was able to do the oil change for the first time on my Tundra.
That is awesome. Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks for being so detailed, my pops took his filter out and couldn’t figure out how to put it back together. Lol
No problem! Gotta love RUclips, right? I'm happy my video was helpful.
My dad has the same truck. Thanks for the commentary as you’re doing the service. Going to do it for him now
I liked the zoom action from his son, good dramatic camera work
Ah. Yes. He is my right hand man. I never noticed the zoom in and out before. LOL. Thank you for noticing and for watching my video!
Great video. Thanks for taking the time and showing all you did.
Thanks for doing this. Very helpful.
I am a retired fleet mechanic and have never done a Toyota
You are welcome. Thank you for commenting!
I found it helpful to hold the deflector with a hydraulic jack while taking it off and putting it back on.
I might try that next time. Thanks.
Not sure if you're in the salt belt or not, but if you are; I'd suggest cleaning that off and hitting it hard with some implement paint. I did three coats, scuffing between, and then waxed the underside. 2 years later in the NE , it looks brand new still. It was beginning to rust when I got the truck. Also, neverseize or grease the bolts.
Funny, you are missing the screws on the front too. I wonder how that happened (PO probably took it to SuperLubber or the Stealer.)
Oil changes are so therapeutic lol
Why dont they put the drain plug in a position where the oil drains straight down? That would be a lot less messier than trying to guess how far the oil is going to shoot out of the pan.
It does go straight down on this design.
Thank you for the video now I'm ready to do my first oil change for my tundra ..
Awesome. Thank you for watching.
This was a great video! Would you consider doing a video of cleaning out the drain tube on the AC drain port? I can't find a video anywhere but if not I may do it myself. Thanks!
Very well presented and articulated!
Thank you for watching my video and for your kind words.
Drivers side ramp is half way off the cement into the grass. Dangerous...
nice video - thanks for taking us along. But you did lose me @ the FRAM Filter.....
LOL. Thank you for watching....and if I have learned anything from posting these vids, it is that FRAM filters are NOT so popular. Take care.
Stay far away from fram,if you want your motor to last...
My stock (plastic) filter housing cracked when I put the new filter in. I ended up buying an aftermarket (metal) housing to install which should last a lot longer than the plastic one. Not sure why toyota would make that filter housing plastic.
You know, I hear a lot of people commenting about this issue. I think I will proactively order one to prevent the same issue. Thank you for commenting and watching!
My wife did not want anyone near her '15 Tundra in this COVID period and asked if would change her oil and filter. Sure, I said. When I was twenty-something, had more time than money, I always did our oil changes, and it was about a half hour, maybe, start to finish. This sucked. Cost me more to do it myself and took over three hours. I had to use a T-wrench to get the filter cover off; I could not get enough leverage with a regular socket wrench. And I never got the deflector shield unhooked, so draining the filter by holding a jar under it turned into a mess. Refastening it was easy enough wedging some 2x4's under it. It's done, and I guess I feel satisfied that I did it and made her happy, but never again. I'm not much worried about the COVID myself. I'll either get it now or six months from now, and if I'm gonna die from it, that won't change. But I play along, because I don't expect I will get to earn a living again until some government epidemiologist says I can.
Thanks for the video!! now I know how to assemble my oil filter canister!!!
Don’t know if it helps, but usually once I change my Tundras engine oil, I turn the key to the on position (for electronics on, not for cranking starting) then I shift into neutral and back down the ramps and onto a level surface. Then I can crank the engine while it’s level.
Not sure if it helps oil distribution or the oil pickup, just some habit my dad and I started doing years ago just to ensure a good first crank after each oil change, especially in case we were low on fluid or something😂idk fun stuff
Cool. I totally understand your concept. I have never really considered doing so. I just might start doing that because proactively following other's experiences is wise. Thank you for watching!
There is a locking tab has to be removed befor removing the oil filter housing.
Holay molay. You just showed up on my news feed.
LOL. Your tracking history at its best. The computer cookies and on-line accounts track what you watch and visit. It does the same thing to me. Thank you for frequently visiting my channel!
best vid yet. thx!
You did it clean and wipe everything.if you bring that to stealership they dont make it good.because plenty autos. line up to change oil on that day
An "Ah Ha!" moment! I now know why my 2012 Tundra Platinum with tow package requires 9 quarts of oil when the manual says 7.(something). It's the tow package stupid! Thanks! By the way, it's important to put some oil on that filter O-ring, large one. I mistakenly thought there was enough residual oil in the cartridge sleeve that I did not need to oil the o-ring. Oh how wrong I was. Developed a leak from the new $9 WIX filter and I had to replace with a new $9 WIX filter, and, two more quarts of oil!
You should always change oil on a level surface, your leaving half a quart of old oil in the pan
Really? Don't you think it would drain more oil out in this position since it drains to the rear of the pan where the drainplug is found?
@@njsongwriter drainplug is on the passenger side dude
CJM , even better....only place a drive-up ramp on the driver’s side.
Good job but I do get OEM filters from Toyota....my dealership has deals like 3 for $15 if you ask ( I hate Fram parts)
Thanks for the feedback. I am so surprised everyone hates FRAM so much! I have probably used that filter brand the most and haven't experienced any ill effects. I'll be more aware.
@@projectfixit
People read how bad Fram is but you only replace the element with this system and the Fram filter you used looks better than the OEM filter. I realize looks aren't what counts But all those YT videos that condemn Fram are using looks to draw their conclusions. Besides Fram Ultra is a high quality filter.
love the video keep up the good work
Buy oil from cosco 2 5gal Kirkland synthetic oil for 25 dollars
Get a Motiv-X Filter drain hose tool and avoid all the mess that plastic part creates.And a Fumoto valve for the pan makes it almost too easy
What mess? lol
I can't believe you got almost 9 quarts in that thing. There is a lot of different reports on how much oil people use. I have the factory tow package and I dump in 8 (instead of 7.9) and I'm dead level on the stick.
Don't know what to say. LOL. I fill to the level mark, too. I wish I could save a little oil. Thanks for adding to the discussions!
@@projectfixit Me neither, it's odd. On the forums people were measuring dipsticks to try to explain the different fill amounts. One of life's mysteries. Great video. 🎄
I put 8.3 quarts in my 2014 tundra. I was kinda worried since i went over 7.9
Your was very helpful, Thanks.
Awesome video, thanks for making it!
Anytime. I am happy my video provided guidance.
Question: have you had any problems with your tundra ? thinking about buying one. Thanks
The only thing is a hard start issue which haunted me. It would take twice as long to start, but I performed a few tasks and eventually resolved it. I have a video on that which does not show exactly what task resolved my issue, but at least it is gone....other than that, I purchased it at 63k miles and have over 105k on it, now. I pull travel trailers occasionally and pull a small animal trailer sometimes. It seems to be quite capable with plenty of power (5.7L) and I love it. The back up camera in mine is awesome comparing to my wife's 2019 CR-V.
I just changed the factory spark plugs at 163,000 miles and they looked great. I really thought they would have been badly degraded. They are great trucks.
I purchased a 2014 one owner crewmax 4x4 with 180000 miles on it and it runs and looks like new...
They will go 500000 plus with proper care and maintince.
Do you think there really is a big difference between the regular oil vs synthetic? What does the owners manual say?
Owner's manual states 0W-20. It does say you may use 5W-20 as long as the very next oil change is switched back to 0W-20. I personally have only seen 0W-20 in synthetic composition, but I suppose there may be a conventional version out there somewhere.
@@projectfixit
Pennzoil has a synthetic blend 0W-20. That's the only OW-20 I've ever seen that is not full synthetic. So why not buy Supertech full synthetic 0W-20 instead of a blend and save money?
@@kingpins9
I've been using synthetc Supertech and the oil level doesn't seem to change during the 5,000 mile oil change. I had no idea that oil from the dealer was so reasonably priced. Guess I'll have to try that.
Yes, synthetic is better in everyway
Since you didn't use a torque wrench to tighten it, how can you be sure that you didn't over or under-torque it?
There isn't any confirmation.
@@kingpins9
I agree. In fact this is one of the best examples I've seen on how to do the job the right way. Still, if the purpose of a video is to teach others the more thorough the video is, the better. There are some things that if not done correctly will make the job more difficult for the next time. I learned the hard way. One example: some people just tighten up the oil filter cap with the ⅜ inch drive ratchet or extension. The problem with that is next time when you go to take off the drain plug from the oil filter cap, the entire cap comes off. It's not the end of the world but it complicates things a bit for those of us who prefer to drain the filter housing before removing it.
It was good to see a socket being used on the oil filter cap wrench. Really not necessary when installing it cause the torque spec is only 18ft.lbs but if it's the slightest bit difficult to take off then the socket is best used to remove the oil filter cap. Many cap wrenches have been broken by trying to remove a stuck oil filter cap using only the ⅜ inch drive ratchet &/or extension.
Torque specs...
Oil pan drain plug torque: 40 N•m = 30 ft lbs
Oil filter cap torque: 25 (±5) N•m = 18 (±3.5) ft lbs
Oil filter drain plug torque: 13 N•m = 10 ft lbs
I like how you mentioned to be careful not to damage the oil filter cap when removing the o-ring. Almost every video I've seen they use a pick or small screwdriver to remove the large o-ring but you might be surprised to learn that the instructions that come with an OEM filter say not to do that. Only one video I've seen demonstrated how do do it correctly by squeezing the o-ring together with one hand and grabbing it with the other. Not a big deal. I doubt using a pick or screwdriver ever causes a problem for most people.
Are you sure the quantity between the two marks on the dip-stick is only one quart? I've always assumed that as well but in reading the owner's manual for our 2009 RAV4, I learned that on our four cylinder, it's actually 1.6 quarts difference.
@@kingpins9
I don't think it would be the same. There's no real reason for it to be the same or to be different. However, there's also no reason for it to be different and since they are both Toyotas, that could be a reason for it to be the same. Or because the Tacoma has a larger capacity that could be a reason for it to be more than 1.6 quarts? But I NEVER said it would be the same, did I?
HOWEVER, I JUST CHECKED THE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR a 2014 Tacoma and guess what... The difference between the two marks IS 1.6 quarts. It's on page 409 of the manual.
When reinserting the aluminum cylinder in the middle of the filter, it can be clipped in from the right side labeled one, or the left side labeled B. Which way is it supposed to go? Anyone?
so after going to the dealership for several months I wanted to do one myself to see what was worth 100 bucks.. well after I broke the plastic filter I bought I upgraded to the metal filter I believe aluminum.. my lexus came with one and it says Toyota on it.. so why didn't this 50k truck come with one??
Aluminum or plastic? They both can be problematic. However, if people would follow the torque specs printed right on the oil filter cap neither one should be a problem. Only tighten the oil filter cap to 18 ft.lbs (25 N•m). That's just slightly more than half as tight as the drain plug on the engine (30 ft.lbs.). If the aluminum oil filter cap is over-torqued it can be even more difficult to get off due to galling that can occur from aluminum screwed into aluminum. The only plus is that you would be less likely to break the oil filter cap (but you may be more likely to break the oil filter cap wrench depending on the quality of the tool).
Your truck probably came with the aluminum cap, and the tech at the dealership broke it and replaced it with a plastic one.
Accurate video, thanks!
You're welcome!
Next time go to a dealer the oil filters are $7.99 that will save you money also you can get a synthetic oil change with rotation for 49.99 if you have Toyota app where you log in and they send you coupons.
Thanks Jack! I will check out the dealer next time to investigate filter and oil pricing. It's good to know sometimes parts aren't marked up too much from the dealer.
Hi Jack, I like the idea of the app but what one is it that your using?
Just purchased a OEM filter and drain plug washer at my local dealer for my 17 Tacoma 3.5l v-6 for $7.19. How do you like the Valvoline Syn 0w-20 in your Toyota engine? Seems like all of the other videos feature Mobil 1 0w-20?
@@stephenmaurer7008 The Valvoline 0W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil seems to be working well. No complaints, here. It has great reviews and quite honestly was chosen because it was the best deal available at the store at the time. Thank you for watching my video.
txmung If your swapping between oil brands depending on whatever is on sale at time of purchase,that’s a great way to turn the truck into an oil burner.Only use one brand(all are ok) if possible for duration of owning.
How much oil do the 5.7's take? Or about how much did you exactly use?
I used just under 9 quarts since my truck has a towing package. ~8.8 quarts....I started with 8 quarts and topped it off until the level was were needed it o the dipstick.
@@kingpins9 Thank you so much!!!
I think this is the first time I've seen someone use about and exactly in the same sentence
@@stevensevek6151 "Or" - maybe you're secretly part of the RUclips Grammar Police!
@@valiantthor-
No secret about it...😁
do you have to lift metal clip when removing filter housing?
You did great 👍
Thank you!
Do you really need to take off that piece just to get to the oil ? I don't care about changing the filter
In my case, I must remove the lower shield. I believe they make replacement shields equipped with access ports for the drain plug, but I am not certain.
@@projectfixit .. something weird happened with my last Tundra. The oil screw broke . It deep-fried the engine. Everything welded shut and I had to junk it
Thank you for your very helpful video!
You are welcome. Thank you for watching!
This truck is extremely annoying to perform a change on. At least compared to my 08 Tacoma. What a PITA
falcondrvr200 , I love how the Tacoma has the oil filter right up top AND how there’s a drain on the filter housing you can attach a hose to. Why the don’t use a spin on filter, I’ll never know.
Corvette Ronnie And I discovered something even easier than a hose recently. A regular plastic water bottle fits right under that oil filter drain. Just stuff it down there and over the drain nipple and drain away. Pour contents into your oil pan when done.
Good job
You bet. Thank you for the feedback!
It’s not 13 mm socket it’s 12mm socket for the skid plate
Thanks!
I have always hated the fact that the Tundra has the oil filter insert instead of a traditional canister oil filter. It just makes such a mess.
I must say, I am glad they position it in an area where oil doesn't drip all over other components. Personally, I hate removing the skid plate. LOL. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Nice job
Thank you for your compliment!
Is this same for 2013 Tundra SR5 4.6 ?
I suppose the year of vehicle would determine that. I am not 100% sure if/when the 4.6 switched over to cartridge-style filter. If your truck has the cartridge style filter, then the process is pretty much the same. (I am guessing since I haven't personally changed the oil and filter on that engine you specified.)
Pretty much. The tools are the same and the size of the oil filter cap is the same. The only thing that may be different is the size of the oil filter element and possibly the splash guard ...
Of all the Toyotas that use this type of filter system only the 1.8 liter four cylinder (found in Corolla, Prius, etc.) have a smaller oil filter cap and use a smaller cap wrench.
I wish he was able to have someone hold the camera , I lost the lot when the camera kept going out of focus.. Next
Sorry about that. Thank you for watching!
A dumb design for the oil filter. They should have placed an access hatch on the shield to allow for easy oil filter replacement.
NEVER run a Fram filter, biggest hunk of junk filter sold. Coming from a 17 year auto parts veteran.
Are you kidding me, I always change my oil. So you need special tools 🤷🏾♂️
Not on all cars but most yeah
Why do automakers use these stupid filters. A spin on filter is way simpler to.replace. I dont see how this canister is supposed to be better.
My father told me automobiles use to be like this where you remove a filter cartridge from a filter housing. Why Toyota went to this technique, I am not certain. It probably directly relates to the cost of only producing a filter cartridge vs. an encased metal spin on style with internal filter.
Oil changes on these trucks are reason enough never to buy another one. What a bad design. Spin on oil filters been working for 60 years so lets make it harder and add the potential for 2 or 3 more places for an oil leak. Oh AND lets make the filter housing out of plastic as well. fck me..
N
Maybe knock off the 40 cups of coffee before you do another video?
toyota does it for 55 bucks
If keeping the vehicle for long term (Miles and years), make sure they use the correct oil, the right amount of oil, and a good oil filter.
Good price. Not around here. One place charged me $76...other dealer wanted to charge me $95..told them to move the other vehicles so I could get my truck out. Wasn't going to pay that much for something so simple. I have an 06 I have changed myself for years. Just ordered the filter wrench to start doing my new one myself.
@@andytx2259
Two five quart Jugs of Supertech 0W-20 full synthetic is only about $30 currently ($15 each). Just add the cost of the filter.
@@stevensevek6151 I'm also using supertech in my 2015.
Maybe in a corolla. Lol.
i hate this stupid toyota filter system
I agree. Many moving pieces makes for more areas for failure.
So much unnecessary talking...
I know. This was one of my first videos I posted. Thank you for watching!
I wouldn’t put a Fram filter in an enemies vehicle..made of 💩
What filter recommendation do you have other than Toyota dealership filter?
@@projectfixit i used OEM Toyota oil filters, WIX oil filters or Denso (maker of Toyota oil filters) for my 09 Toyota Tacoma 2.4l. I just purchased a oil filter and drain plug washer from my local dealer for $7.19 (PA state tax included).
@@stephenmaurer7008 Excellent. Thx!
@@projectfixit I always buy the TRD oil filters. Few bucks more but soooooo much better of a product. I guarantee once you use them you will not use anything else especially with 10k oil changes. Used them on my 2 4runner's and also (coincidentally enough) same filter for the wife's IS300 Lexus. But I have a tundra that just passed the 25k mile toyota maintenance and will be using one in next oil change in about 3k miles. Also good rule of thumb is 10, 20, 30 lbs torque for each fastener. 10 for drip tube plate, 20 for canister, 30 for drain bolt.
I use OEM Toyota or K&N.
I'm not sure there is anything wrong with a Fram element. It's not like you're replacing a spin-on filter with all its parts. It's just an element especially if you do an oil change every 5,000 miles. Besides Fram has three different filters: cheap, economy and ULTRA. The latter looks to be a very good filter. (Likely comparable to the TRD filter)
This is why don’t bother changing my oil any,more. They made a simple tried and true method, so much more complicated. What a joke. It’s cheaper to have Toyota do it than to do it yourself anyway. I hate everything about TOyota. I’ll be going back to ford when I get rid of my tundra. All the plastic crap they slap on these vehicles is out of control. The second gen tundra was cool looking. Now they look like crap.
That oil filter drainplug is only suppose to be torqued to 10 ft.lbs.
Some newer Toyotas (Camry, RAV4, ?) have gone back to spin-on filters. It's a shame but that's what happens. That's why a lot of cars no longer offer a manual transmission. Demands of the customers.
Ford has plenty of plastic on them to, also Ford never has had the overall reliability ratings Toyota has had .but your entitled to your opinion..