Back on the road for my cheap Ferrari 308 - but only just
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2021
- Finally i get to drive the InfluEnzo, my cheap Ferrari 308 on the road after the rebuild. But all is not good. There are misfires and not all the cylinders seem to be running.
FULL INFLUENZO EPISODE LIST: • InfluEnzo - Ferrari 30...
ULEZ petition to reduce classic car age from 40 to 30 years: petition.parliament.uk/petiti... Авто/Мото
29. ruclips.net/video/Uf8ySU7AuqE/видео.html How this old wreck saved my Ferrari and saved me lots of money!
FULL EPISODE LIST: ruclips.net/p/PL-JmG4958QS8v5Bn2lol3bm8YQ4UNRstU
Jack, Jack, Jack, whatever your ongoing personal frustrations, never overlook the fact that you have kept thousands of us going through lockdowns 😊. We feel your pain and we live it it through your videos. For that we thank you!
I think a visit to Mr Tyrrell's will benefit everyone. Views for him, views for you and hopefully get it running so you can move on. I'm very eager to know the problem, I'm guessing it's the ignition system.
Been watching car wizard he's got one of these and not running on all cylinders he said it's the carbs worth watching👍👍
Take a deep breath and relax, Jack dont give up, its probably something so simple, youve got this far, it will make all miles per smiles worth it, when its running properly.
Get up to Mr Tyrells's if nothing more a great place to visit, but I am certain he will find the issue quickly, may save a lot of heartache.
I've thought that too.
Take it to an expert. Mr Tyrell would be ideal. Maybe it doesn't make good RUclips but there comes a time.
@@brianbrowne206 He could do a brilliant video with Ian - Might even get a discount for the plug!
@@brianbrowne206 Jack and Mr T make some of the best content on here, together on that project would be wonderful viewing!
Ian will no doubt stick his ear and a bit of pipe to each cylinder and tell you all you need to know.
He's like the car whisperer.
Your optimism is addictive
I’d check out the coil amplifiers, the distributor rotor and cap, the leads and then the carbs ... After that, over to Ian. Your tenacity is admirable but maybe it’s time for an expert(?).
My 328 had the exact same problem and it was fixed by changing one coil amp.
Seems like they get bad with time and the heat in there.
Is there maybe a way of testing them on a multi meter?
@@LupinYonderboy Not really, the issues with those are usually intermittent. The same are used is some older Alfa's - 33, 75 , and they do fail. You can test if every plug receives voltage, if you take it out and ground the case of the plug.
+30 year old semiconductors? Weak Spark breaking down under load? WTF????
I agree that it looks a lot like an electrical issue. Perhaps the spark advance not functioning properly? Especially if under load the engine hasn't got power and backfires... Anyway, thanks for sharing your efforts, and don't give up! We're all pulling for you Jack!
Bloody hell Jack !!!, it never ends with the 308, next episode, you sat in your living room with a bottle of whiskey (single malt) quietly sobbing ...... seriously though, keep at it , summer will be here soon and you need the 308 ready for that.👍👍👍👍🇬🇧
As any mechanic will tell you, new doesn't mean a thing, I've had so many new faulty parts in my life that it's not funny. Great channel, thank you.
Here's an idea Jack.....from Accuspark,a pack in the case of the 308, .....8 needed, their spark plug tester tool.....then mount one of your cameras in the engine bay to see how each plug is performing under road conditions........just a thought.
That car is RUclips gold Jack,keeps on giving !
Your face is priceless when you are driving this car at the moment and has a look of someone just grimacing and waiting for something to go bang.
The carb is such an important part of the combustion, you just have to put yourself, and us out of our misery and go and see Mr Tyrell. I reckon he will fix it in 10 mins with a screwdriver and a bit of hose pipe, something you are wasting your time trying to do. Can't wait to see what he says on a video VERY SOON WE HOPE!! - good luck!!
I think Mr Tyrell is the way to go.
No, Jack has come this far, if its the ign amps he can do it himself and get the satisfaction he deserves. Handing it over to anyone at this stage after the work hes done would be selling himself short.
@@marksbikeexports5123 You have a point, Jack must be so frustrated though. Maybe he will be asleep in bed one night and the solution will pop into his head like 'DING'! I hope so, I've been here since the beginning with the Influenzo and dearly want to see and hear her running properly.
@@marksbikeexports5123
My thinking exactly. Jack is very close. Would be a drag to have an expert fix it - that's not what we're here to see.
Jack figures it's electric, and it seems like it's that one bank.
Swap the coils and see if the problem follows the coils or stay with the bank. If it follows the coils then it's the coil or the amplifier. If it stays with the bank, then its back to a can timing issue I would think. Just one distributer on that thing right ? Maybe check the spark advance if it's mechanical.
Keep going Jack. We're rooting for you.
Just want to thank you for these videos. Really pulling for you and the influenzo.
@@marksbikeexports5123 i think ian will just give another aspect to this he will sort it especially if a carb problem
When I work on older cars, I use a digital thermometer to see which cyclinders are firing properly and are even. Use the thermometer on each branch of the exhaust manifold and if you see a value that is different to all the others that is your cylinder/cylinders. Hope this helps
Wd 40 sprayed on the exhaust is cheaper
Good tip that Babbo12. Thanks. I have one of those so next time I have issues like that on one of my cars, I'll use that technique, My MG Turbo had poor start, idle and running until warmed up. Swapped everything "old school" investigation style with known good ones and no change. In the end I swapped the complete Inlet Manifold Assembly with a known good one from a spare car and immediate cure. Cars can be like that ... sometimes. 👍👍
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I’ve also seen a mist of water sprayed on each cylinder exhaust tube in a dynamometer room to check to make sure each cylinder is firing.
@@mgjohn8534 no worries. I’ve used it several times... helps a lot when there are 12 cylinders to balance/check
I never thought I’d find so many other uses for the IR thermometer I bought for cooking accuracy. But yes, this is an awesome tip, and and easy one too!
Petition signed 👍 keep going Jack, don’t give up we are with you .
I am sure you will sort it out. I know I had similar headaches with my 240Z and it ended up being vacuum leaks between the carbs and the head. I am not sure that is your issue, but it is something else to think about. You will get there mate.
Thanks buddy!!!
This where you get to old school mechanics and I miss those days.
You need a spark plug tester and you locate the issue at the source, check the firing order and work back from the plug and don't forget to mark the leads... Good luck
I'd start at the plugs and work backwards.. The extenders are notorious for burning through & arcing out . Hard to see on the black ones but temporarily tape them all up. Check the leads for continuity (they break inside) , check the connectors in the dizzy cap. Check the cap for cracks & clean the 8 posts. Check the rotor arm & reset the points. check the central connections onto the rotor; check the HT leads back to the coils for continuity. Check all the LT connections & the ignition connections at the fuse board..you'll find it.
Jack I am full of admiration for your patience and tenacity.Get rid!!!!!
Once it runs right its gonna put a big smile on your face Mr !
At least the weather is still sufficiently rubbish that you're not missing out on nice driving days. And it is a pretty car!
It is a gorgeous looking car 😍 you'll get there and can't wait for that video when it's all sorted
Love your technical diagnosis "I'll just keep driving it so I can learn more about it, and maybe it will completely breakdown and that'll tell me what the problem is..." That's exactly how I do things too. :)
For a car that is running badly it sure sounds good! Perseverance will get you there.
I really admire your resilience and enthusiasm. With both of them you will get there. Loving your vids.
You may be assuming that the HT wires are new and therefore are OK but even new HT wires can be faulty or internally damaged and therefore have too much resistance or are simply faulty! The carbs are the last thing in the process for tune up remember. Check the wires for resistance or fault and their proper connections to plugs and distributor caps, I'm sure your coils and plugs are fine, do it especially with your crappy weather/rain.
The problem is in your distributor. Everything else has been cross checked. Everyone has contributed very good diagnostic ideas and that is good!
I cannot disagree. I have seen dist. caps develop light carbon tracking that shorts the spark to ground intermittently, especially as spark load increases when you get on it.
I once had a microscopic crack in my distributor cap which prevented proper sparks. Took ages to find, but found it by changing the cap as a last resort. Then I knew the cap was bad and made a close exam that revealed the crack. Also the spark plug wires could be the issue. Should be easy to test out as you have two identical separate banks.
This is what I’ve been saying to him for a couple of videos now, but apparently he’s not seeing these comments.
Here’s another vote for switching out the dist cap, and taking a look at the HT leads.
the rotor can be the culprit, pull it off and see if there is a microscopic hole on the in the center conductor thats letting the spark ground through to the the cam end. Order a few from Superformance, they are cheap and a good thing to throw in the glovebox!
got to admire your positivity - this would have finished me off long ago! Keep it up.
Wow...Jack your on the home straight....Keep the faith your nearly there....loving your content.....
Have you tried switching the amplifiers over and seeing if the problematic bank changes?
You are optimism personified, sir. You've come this far please keep on going
I always adjusted the carbs by taking a C O reading from each exhaust port. Always stayed in tune. Good luck
Amazing video once again! Petition signed. Look forward to the next one!
Almost there! Hope you make a video with Ian....get Harry over there for good measure! Three of the most pleasant and relaxing car people to watch.
Well done for raising the ULEZ issue. I had to sell my 86 E30 because it hits my street in October,. Time to sign the petition.
Been looking forward to this.
Looking into the amplifier is a good idea. Super common failure on the Lotus Esprits as well, and they are also a GM produced part (cheap and readily available). Good luck!! The whole classic car thing, yeah that’s crazy, 40 years? In the US it’s generally 25 years to be considered a classic. Hope it all works out for you guys!! We have our own battles as well we are currently fighting with the EPA and the allowance of people to own dedicated race cars that don’t have to meet emissions guidelines. Crazy how badly they try to destroy our hobbies. 😔
I'd suggest checking for air leaks on the intake side using a small amount of propane (the running engine will run differently if you have a leak that sucks in propane rather than air), but the risk of fire may be a bit big with the Influenzo. But, check your grounds, clean the schmutz off of the amplifiers, make sure your rotor(s) and cap(s) are in good shape, the plug and coil leads are good, the timing is correct and that any advance mechanisms are working properly. And don't give up, it's just a machine.
I recall some episodes from german show 'Die Autodoktoren' in which they pulled a lead from the spark plug to the dash board, so they could check which sparks where missing under load
Love the content, can’t wait for the next video.👌🏻
Jack, I have maybe 20 RUclips channel subscriptions, and yours is by far my favorite. I have now a Ferrari Dino GTS that I am attempting to restore, as well as a gated 360 spider. If ever you make it out to the SF Bay Area (I am in San Jose), I would really enjoy connecting. Keep up the great work! Cheers!
I had an electrical problem on a car that was elusive for ages, happened to open the bonnet in the dark one evening and could see the tracking /sparking across the coil where some dirt and grease where shorting . So try having a look in the dark you might spot something . Good luck
Can’t wait to see the old girl at Tyrells. She does look good without the roof spoiler, now the front lower spoiler to go and the Ferrari will look gorgeous. Great work Jack, cheers
You can have those ignition modules checked. One of the issues if they are installed without Dielectric grease you could be getting inconsistent continuity between the amplifier and the connection on the base
Great video as always
I had a car when I was younger that was acting similarly. I looked at what I thought was everything - carb, wires, coil, plugs, points, condensor....
It would kind of run ok at idle but not good. When under load it was gutless and sometimes would wind up on the RPM and sometimes it wouldn't.
Turned out to be a worn distributor. Found out after I rebuilt the carb and replaced everything else. Was a real head-scratcher.
Maybe check the play/tolerance on the rotors/distributor bits. Worth a look.
Nice work, getting it running again!
You need a timing light. With that you can clip on each lead and see what plugs are firing or not. The prime rule if you are going to troubleshoot using the shotgun method is to shoot the cheap stuff first. Before suspecting coils or amplifiers make sure the wire is good. a dead bank could simply be a bad connection from coil to distributor. You can check that with a timing light as well.
When you started shaking your head on attempt 4 I had to have a little chuckle.. We seem to share the same luck.. 🤪
Keep going mate!
Have you had a look at the motor running darkness you might have plug leads leaking and shorting out, I've had leads leaking and miss firing in the same way.
Another good tip I've completely forgotten about. When one of my MGs was running a bit rough one rainy, dark evening, I lifted the bonnet to see an impressive "Electrical" display all over the Distributor Cap. New cap, immediate cure.
Hang in there, you’ve come so far, we all agree just a few more hurdles to go. Well done 👍
If you are going to do this yourself, then you need something like this _Hantek 1008C+ 8CH Automotive Diagnostic PC Oscilloscope_ so that you can properly diagnose the spark issues, carb synch tuner set, to set up the carbs to each be pulling the same vacuum typically have 4 gauges in a set to compare 1 bank of cylinders, OR you can get an air flow meter that tells you the air flow into each cylinder - you measure each cylinder individually, timing light for timing setup and advance. Can't remember if the oscilloscope gives you direct read of advance, probably not, just time, which can be converted to angle.
Also, you need to invest time in understanding everything, or you could take it to your friendly trusted tuner :-)
Just keep that positive attitude Jack........ it will pay off soon I'm sure !
Good luck !!! - lovely though to see a warts and all diary of classic car ownership
If you are getting back fires and detonation maybe there is an air leak causing a lean mixture.
Thanks Jack, more great stuff! Hoping it'll get sorted for the Summer!
Petition signed.
I used to kick my Dino daily. I also used to polish it daily. It's a love hate thing. When it wasn't working, which was often, it was a car I would have happily set fire to. When it was working it was the best experience to have outside of the bedroom.
Funny to be proud of someone i don't really know but as time pass, i see you much more as a Friend who really wants his rarri working than a normal youtuber.
Keep on keeping on jack, we'll support ya!
Hang in there Jack, it will be worth it in the end!!! Keep up the awesome videos!!!
Sounds like a simple distributor capacitor/condenser malfunction to me - especially since you’ve checked most other things and it does rev nicely in neutral.
Had a Ford Capri that did that to me, way back when - a lot of head scratching to work it out but a simple £10 fix, in those days, at least.
Good luck with mr.tyrell. I can only imagine your frustration I’m afraid I would only be intent on selling now, admire your perseverance
I think just the sight of that magnificent beauty would keep anyone girded for resolve. Godspeed!
I am 100% sure you will get there in the end. The main problem is usually that people just give up, I am sure that will not happen here...!
Keep the faith Jack! Hopefully Ian will be able to sort it out with a simple solution. Then Happy Driving!!
Jack, you have the patience of a saint..hang in there buddy and great content as usual. Vint-tro ✌🏼
Well here’s my two pennies worth.
Double check your cam timing is correct! Or if you have the kit check the valve timing if it has vernier cam pulleys.
Blocked jets? I don’t think so! The plugs would read lean and obvious they are wet.
Cylinder leak down test next to make sure you are all good on cylinder pressure a compression test only tells half the story.
The only other thing I would question is valve clearances.
It’s not advisable to set the tappets with the heads off.
Depending on architecture of the head and how high the head stud torques are. The castings will compress slightly and can close up the valve clearance. But I think that is a long, long shot!
Other than that. Get it on an old school Kypton type engine diagnostics/tuning machine.
Which will have an oscilloscope. This will identify if you have a weak coil output to a specific cylinder.
Good luck Jack. You’ll get there. (Eventually)
Only halfway through the video, but I’m shouting at the screen: don’t you have an infrared thermometer? Point it at each exhaust runner in sequence. Instant dead cylinder indicator.
Edit: also, there is an inexpensive product called Colortune. It’s a spark plug with a built-in window. You can visually verify that the combustion is happening, and the color of the combustion tells you about the air/fuel mixture in that cylinder. Might be helpful. I suspect a fueling problem, likely the carb, but I’m no expert. From their website:
The general appearance of the combustion flame when viewed through Colortune is as follows:
Yellow: Indicates a fuel/air mixture which has excessive petrol content(too rich).
Bunsen Blue: Correctly proportioned mixture.
Whitish Blue: Less petrol content(too lean) - at idle, misfiring and engine instability may occur before this lean mixture is fully visible.
I was thinking the same - IR thermometer is so useful.
If it was me, I’d be swapping out carb jets between banks to see if the dead cylinder moves. You’ll need your IR thermometer. I suspect a blocked jet.
I have no idea how likely that really is, but it makes sense to me that a blocked jet would do this, and that a blocked jet is plausible. Would only take 30 minutes to either confirm or rule that out with the test I suggested.
Edit: I looked it up … blocked jets are very common.
''uncle tony'' licks his finger end swipes the manifold with it if it sizzles it's good :)
@@lebojay , unfortunately no Ferraris to play with, but had a few Alfa’s with twin choke carbs. And they can block up. Either with debris from the fuel (eg, dirt and sand), or from old fuel . Plus there are accelerator pumps which need adjust (ie, as you press the throttle they squirt extra fuel in - which is also useful for starting the engine without faffing with the choke).
Compressor and air line helps a lot.
@@katywalker8322 I have one of those Alfas with twin choke carbs 😎
Well done Jack...a good effort all round 👏🙂
Petition signed as well 👍
Keep up the good work!!
Brilliant video, as ever, you will sort it, honest!
Admire your attitude. The engine will roar again one day.
Gorgeous motor. Hope you get it running right!
Hang in there man. I’ve just got through replacing the gearbox in my trans am for the 4th time this weekend to finally figure out it was a dud box in the end. Finally got to do a good cruise today with her and all of the sudden....the countless hours of effort were all worth it 😁
You have to keep it, love this car and what you both have gone through together is great 👍
Be great to see Ian Tyrell do a video for us on his channel of him diagnosing and hopefully fixing it. Go on Ian!
I admire your perseverance jack which creates great content (and entertainment for us) but surely it’s time for Mr Ian “hose to the ear” Tyrell to work his magic and get the influenzo running properly 😉👍🏼
Jack... You will persevere and You shall overcome any obstacles that stand in the way between You and a Perfect running Ferrari 308!! Stay Safe and Stay Strong my friend!
❤🙏❤
You are such an inspiration 👍
Hey again! As said yesterday, it has been a long time. Tracking back down where I left watching this car’s episodes and found out I had effectively seen the very first smokey start. So here I am, watching this episode. Indeed it sounds like you are asking all of its potential as soon as you step on the gas.
Cheers, will be watching all of it this evening.
Cheers from Belgium!
Edit: the shut line of the right hand door seems very bad… needs adjusting at least :p
Dude you are a saint,,, so much stuff. Man
I hope you get it running very soon. You have worked so hard on it now is the time to start driving it 😬
Nice to see it running and driving. Fingers crossed its a nice easy fix.
Engine noise on video sounds fantastic.
Cant want to hear it when its running better.
The missfiring is actually a good sign. It means that the sparkplugs and cylinders are somehow working. Nethertheless, sorting it out could be anything. From the carbs to the wiring...
first of all triplecheck those plugleads are in right firing order, then swap plugleads [both ends over ] from bad cylinder to good cylinder - does fault follow pluglead?, then swap coil units over - does the fault change to different plugs? get your marigolds on + pull the plugleads off 1 by 1 whilst its running at idle- you should notice a difference in engine noise/shake if cylinder running ok. repeat test at 1500/2000 rpm do you get same result? same result -valve clearances suspect tight gap . less noticable change - ign or carb issue suspect.
we will get there eventually.
PS once swapped 2 plug leads round on distributor cap on mates brand new borrowed xr3 - didnt think it would start, but it did, and a week later the ford main dealer finally found why their demo model was running really bad [ totally denied it]
i would think jack will change all the leads i wouldn't bother with just a couple just change the whole lot
Cheers Jack we have the same issue here in Birmingham re charges!!! In relation to the 308 I’d be happy just to look at it every day! 🚒👍
Jack, please don‘t give up! All the „truble“ (or maybe „lessons“ from an old Italian Diva 😉) bring you more in Love with the 308! So stay tuned and Go on. We Love the journey you take us with you on the way to success!
Nice to see it out and running....in some manner at least. Its still progress and yes, its a rather beautiful car. I think I agree with some of the other comments,; take it to Mr Tyrell 👍
One quick test is to swap the coils and GM device over between banks. Since both look identical. If the problem moves, you then know it's that. Secondly, years back I had problems and it was the HT leads. So definitely don't rule them out.
This would have driven me up the wall, I actually gave up on one of my projects last week and heaved a sigh of relief as it drove away.
I've now sank £320 into a 21 year old SLK230 which is not in the same league as the Porsche that I let go, but......I've already polished a grand into it.
Well done for sticking with it
We’re all pulling for you, Jack!
Thanks for sharing although it’s not happy to have the car running like that after so many effort to get it properly.
I think that for sure those amplifier have to be changed in order to understand if are responsible or at least inverted and see if the misfiring goes fron one bank to the other. I would check also for distributors cap and rotors, and wire plug. Fingers crossed and go on man!
The car wizard has bought one of these.
Love your positivity. Ian Tyrell will probably solve it within 5 minutes lol
nice drive thanks
Lovely car please keep making these videos
In the comments are a broad array of good suggestions to fix your horrible/disappointing issue. Bottom line, it's either a timing issue (maybe most probable as you have changed this element), a coil issue, or less likely a carburetor issue. Whenever I experience an issue like this I always first fully explore areas that I have changed or rebuilt.
Good luck Jack.
Hi, ive had a couple of vehicles that sound ok on tickover then miss fire on load. A look into the engine bay in darkkness identified HT leaks to earth. Worth a try neighbours permitting, should only take a quick look. Great vids and great work.👍