Removing the rear axle/diff assembly from HG models HEMTT. Teardown, inspect and re-assemble. My webstore: hobbyconcepts.net Facebook: www.facebook.c...
Another informative video.......thanx!!!! I like your camera angles and lighting. I finally got my improvised paint box/exhaust fan gizmo up and running and it worked flawlessly during the tail hook paint job. The only issue is that I'm limited in terms of part size.......small stuff is no problem but I couldn't paint an entire truck body. I also picked up some of that triple guard grease you luv so much. A differential teardown is near the bottom of my bucket list. You're way ahead of me partner.........I'm running as fast as I can........I'm not as young as I used to be........one model at a time!!!!!
Thanks as always for the feedback. New at this You Tube thing but hopefully my videos will get even better. Wish I could stick with one model at a time!!
I disassembled my HG P802 and added one million diff oil. It works a lot better. But I did find that the 802 and 408 model has plenty of grease on the gears.
thanks for your very detailed tear down video, I have been looking to buy one of these. as for that axle shaft with no bearing in the center diff carrier, not even your real car or truck has a bearing there, I build axles & transmissions FIY, there are just thrust washers and grooves in the carrier metal to allow diff fluid to flow thru those areas where axle shaft rotates inside the carrier housing . cant wait to see your trailer idea, and maybe a front loader painted to match the military scheme
Excellent point. The only time the axle shaft rotates with respect to the differential housing would be when the differential is being actuated (truck turning or if it's stuck and the opposite wheel is spinning), which would be minimal.
I've heard silly putty works well as a diff locker as it's easy to remove after and with veering amounts you can retain a very minimal amount of diff movement... I've also see the springs from a bick liter used to push the inner gears out making a kinda limited slip in that it's like a locked diff unless a tire really binds up a tire suppose the puddy wood have the same type of reaction depending on the amount used ?!?! Best of luck and grate video
If you want to "lock" an axle, just stuff some silly putty in there. Wear gloves when handling the differential and putty so you don't trap the natural oils from your skin in between the putty and the gears which can cause rust and/or other forms of corrosion (unless the gears are nylon, then it doesn't really matter).
Great video! I did this as described, using the Evinrude Triple-Guard grease, but it largely did nothing. Diffs are just smoother running now, I expected it to be very tight like when you tried to twist it in the video @ 11:26. I packed it full, so I thought, some grease was even squirting out the screw holes of the black plastic housing when I attached the 2nd axle... what did I do wrong? Is that some 20-million weight grease?
Very informative video. Where else would you see the axles inside? Plastic housing in a truck that can load 5kg-just a turn off to me..Thanks for video/Subscribed!
Thank you for showing the guys of one of the axles. What are you going to do with this rig when you are done making videos? Of course play with it a few times, but is it going to become a shelf queen? Will you be in the market to sell it and it trade it off... Please note, I can't stand it when folks ask if I am willing to trade for something I have that they desire of mine, but, desperate times while I am healing a broken back... I have a Tamiya Highlift, that is never been ran, and has a bunches of dust on the unit, lol, is is a shelf queen... But, I made a scaled out full functioning plow for it, servo lifted via high torque ball bearinged metal/brass gear train type servo... I have some videos of it, when I was building it, several years ago, if you would check those out, to see the details I incorporated into it... I can offer to ship it to you as well to let you look it over in person, and if not interested, kindly ship it back. Although this sound risky on my behalf to do. the truck just sits there, as it is kinda a sore spot for me, as I was hired to machine a functioning plow for the High lift, and the guy realized how much the cost was totaling, and left.me hanging, so to speak, which is in part why I never ran it and just makes me grovel every time I look at the thing, as I know I will never get what I put into it back out, which R&D, designing, materials and time, cost of the truck, is over $2000.00. If there is of interest I can do much better videos of it, as those videos are many many years old, back when the Tamiya High Lift was first released, 5, 8, 12 years ago??? I don't know... Please note, I do not wish to sound pushy, not at all, and you are under no obligation for any of this horse trading ideas.. I live in Indiana and used to operate as 984 A1 wrecker back in the day, and was some type f the most amazing experiences in my life, and for the first time ever, I was actually good at this. Set some new provisions that were "by design" not supposed to be able to do, that actually were implemented into the mil spec manual.... I'll stop, I am about to write a novel here, sorry... Let me know what you think, or of no interest at all, I won't be offended at all, but, the squeaky wheel get its oil, lol...ruclips.net/video/A1Yd4qFvA3g/видео.html
the bearing is on the diff to keep gear mesh, just like a real life car.. same design. and the shaft aint ever gonna wear thru that housing, unless one of 2 things, the plastic is $hit or ridiculous 1 tire spin action for a LOOONG time.... 1/8 scale nitro buggys have plastic housing and dont grenade them
Found theme here: www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Bright-RC-Car-Truck-LED-Light-Police-Flashing-Rotating-Beacon-Light-Accs/153332400280?hash=item23b352c098:m:mzfPT5WLMHwhizulhSwypbw
Hi: I have the P801... concerning my left front tire... a pin (part # W01002) somehow came out of it's hole/slot and broke it's housing (part # C006). This assemble can be found in the Chassis Structure booklet, on page 12, in section # 24. I have ordered a new part of each and I'm waiting for them to be sent to me. Once I get them and reassemble the left outer axel unit, do I need to provide some sort of grease in the housing (part # C006). It appeared when I took it apart to assess the damage, that there wasn't any grease in there. Is this why the part failed initially? It looks like the pin (part # W01002) somehow became pushed out of it's slot ( bending the pin beyond future use) and warpping the housing (part # C006) until it cracked and broke... causing the tire to cease turning. Can you provide me with any advice? Keep up the good work.
My guess is that when they assembled your truck the pin was partway out and then bolting down the wheel bent it. Since the axle in that part rides in ball bearings no grease is needed, in fact grease would only attract dirt. Sounds like when you get the parts and put it back together you will be all good.
@@HobbyconceptsLLC I think I discovered the problem... but I'm unsure how to fix it. (Please look at page 12, diagram # 24). There are two pins that fit into the dogbone (part # C006). One pin (Part # W01002) fits through a hole on the dogbone itself. The other pin fits through the ball on the end of the axel (which the cup of the dogbone fits over). This pin that fits on the axel itself and into the cup of the dogbone is what forces the wheel itself to turn. However, the pin on my axel (which makes the dogbone turn) just seems to want to fall out while the axel is turning... thus breaking the cup of the dogbone... and thus preventing the motor from turning the wheel. The question is... how should I fix this problem? Glue the pin in the axel to prevent it from falling out and thus breaking the cup on the dogbone? This can't be right. I noticed the pins on the other front axels seem to fit fine and are not falling out and breaking their dogbones. It seems like that pin should be a permanent part of the ball on the end of the axel... and thus prevented it from slipping loose. The manual doesn't really mention this pin in the axel. If you look at page 7, diagram 8, it shows the front diff assembly. The part of the axel I keep referring to is part # C028 (which I think would be called the drive shaft?). Do you see the ball at the end of the shaft with a pin through it. Part C028 fits into the dogbone (part C006). That pin at the end of the shaft is my problem... because it keeps wanting to fall out while the wheel is turning. Do you have any ideas? Sorry for the long rambling comment/question... but I don't know anyone else who can help me.
Hello! my P802 arrived last Friday, I never used it, and I noticed that the seats of the bearings in the axles and in the gearbox, are not very precise ... let me explain: if we take a transmission shaft and try to move it up and down, near the entrance of the axles or the gearbox, we notice that there is a lot of space around the bearing! I do not think it should be there! Am I wrong?
have you tried to take the transmission shafts that go to the front and rear to the exit of the gearbox? do the swing .... 😳 My professor of technique explained that the errors add up ..... I do not think it explodes, but it certainly is not good for gears, bearings and their seats .... if you have a contact in HG, you can tell them to improve the axle and gearbox seats; I would gladly buy the upgrades. These trucks are AWESOME !!!! even just to look and touch, but with these few improvements, they would be AWESOME !!!! also to use and they would be bomb-proof! I have yet to mount the sound module and the light kit; I hope that my LEDs all work, and that the noise of the engine does not resemble that of my wife Agnese's ABARTH as I heard you leave your sound module! 😁😁😁
im more concerned of durability. Do you think it can last longer or take more punishment than a Tamiya truck? planning on making it a tractor for my 80 lbs 1/10 scale. dozer
The HG HEMTT is much larger and more heavy duty than the Tamiya trucks. Would be much better to tow a trailer with a heavy dozer. It will tow 80lbs on a trailer with no problem.
Another informative video.......thanx!!!! I like your camera angles and lighting. I finally got my improvised paint box/exhaust fan gizmo up and running and it worked flawlessly during the tail hook paint job. The only issue is that I'm limited in terms of part size.......small stuff is no problem but I couldn't paint an entire truck body. I also picked up some of that triple guard grease you luv so much. A differential teardown is near the bottom of my bucket list. You're way ahead of me partner.........I'm running as fast as I can........I'm not as young as I used to be........one model at a time!!!!!
Thanks as always for the feedback. New at this You Tube thing but hopefully my videos will get even better. Wish I could stick with one model at a time!!
I disassembled my HG P802 and added one million diff oil. It works a lot better. But I did find that the 802 and 408 model has plenty of grease on the gears.
Looks and sounds like my lesu 1/14 axles. Solid but loud
Hey bud good info cuz I’ve got both the p801 and p802 heading my way stay tuned 😁👍🏼
How did you like.the rigs?
thanks for your very detailed tear down video, I have been looking to buy one of these. as for that axle shaft with no bearing in the center diff carrier, not even your real car or truck has a bearing there, I build axles & transmissions FIY, there are just thrust washers and grooves in the carrier metal to allow diff fluid to flow thru those areas where axle shaft rotates inside the carrier housing . cant wait to see your trailer idea, and maybe a front loader painted to match the military scheme
Excellent point. The only time the axle shaft rotates with respect to the differential housing would be when the differential is being actuated (truck turning or if it's stuck and the opposite wheel is spinning), which would be minimal.
I've heard silly putty works well as a diff locker as it's easy to remove after and with veering amounts you can retain a very minimal amount of diff movement... I've also see the springs from a bick liter used to push the inner gears out making a kinda limited slip in that it's like a locked diff unless a tire really binds up a tire suppose the puddy wood have the same type of reaction depending on the amount used ?!?! Best of luck and grate video
I have used silly putty myself o other trucks and it works well.
HG uses lock tite on alot of thier set screws, it takes a little careful heat to break them loose.
If you want to "lock" an axle, just stuff some silly putty in there. Wear gloves when handling the differential and putty so you don't trap the natural oils from your skin in between the putty and the gears which can cause rust and/or other forms of corrosion (unless the gears are nylon, then it doesn't really matter).
Great video! I did this as described, using the Evinrude Triple-Guard grease, but it largely did nothing. Diffs are just smoother running now, I expected it to be very tight like when you tried to twist it in the video @ 11:26. I packed it full, so I thought, some grease was even squirting out the screw holes of the black plastic housing when I attached the 2nd axle... what did I do wrong? Is that some 20-million weight grease?
Very informative video. Where else would you see the axles inside? Plastic housing in a truck that can load 5kg-just a turn off to me..Thanks for video/Subscribed!
😉👍👍👍💯
Looks like they use a lot of Traxxas parts in the axel. All internal parts look like Traxxas parts.
Thank you for showing the guys of one of the axles. What are you going to do with this rig when you are done making videos? Of course play with it a few times, but is it going to become a shelf queen? Will you be in the market to sell it and it trade it off... Please note, I can't stand it when folks ask if I am willing to trade for something I have that they desire of mine, but, desperate times while I am healing a broken back... I have a Tamiya Highlift, that is never been ran, and has a bunches of dust on the unit, lol, is is a shelf queen... But, I made a scaled out full functioning plow for it, servo lifted via high torque ball bearinged metal/brass gear train type servo... I have some videos of it, when I was building it, several years ago, if you would check those out, to see the details I incorporated into it... I can offer to ship it to you as well to let you look it over in person, and if not interested, kindly ship it back. Although this sound risky on my behalf to do. the truck just sits there, as it is kinda a sore spot for me, as I was hired to machine a functioning plow for the High lift, and the guy realized how much the cost was totaling, and left.me hanging, so to speak, which is in part why I never ran it and just makes me grovel every time I look at the thing, as I know I will never get what I put into it back out, which R&D, designing, materials and time, cost of the truck, is over $2000.00. If there is of interest I can do much better videos of it, as those videos are many many years old, back when the Tamiya High Lift was first released, 5, 8, 12 years ago??? I don't know... Please note, I do not wish to sound pushy, not at all, and you are under no obligation for any of this horse trading ideas.. I live in Indiana and used to operate as 984 A1 wrecker back in the day, and was some type f the most amazing experiences in my life, and for the first time ever, I was actually good at this. Set some new provisions that were "by design" not supposed to be able to do, that actually were implemented into the mil spec manual.... I'll stop, I am about to write a novel here, sorry... Let me know what you think, or of no interest at all, I won't be offended at all, but, the squeaky wheel get its oil, lol...ruclips.net/video/A1Yd4qFvA3g/видео.html
I will probably be working on this truck for several months. If I do sell it I will mention it in the last video.
@@HobbyconceptsLLC Roger that!!! Look forward to watching the build
Can you leave a link to buy the product?
The 3rd and 4rd axels are not independet to rach other yes?
Hi bob nice video you think if I put that heavy grease on differential helps the traction control on the differential?
It would help. I personally am not into locking the diff's.
@@HobbyconceptsLLC thank you bob enjoy the holidays
JB weld ? Or putty
If I was going to lock them I would use Silly Putty
the bearing is on the diff to keep gear mesh, just like a real life car.. same design.
and the shaft aint ever gonna wear thru that housing, unless one of 2 things, the plastic is $hit or ridiculous 1 tire spin action for a LOOONG time....
1/8 scale nitro buggys have plastic housing and dont grenade them
Hi - where did you get this rotating beacon from ?
Would like to add it to my methanol powered 1:12 HEMTT as well.
Found theme here: www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Bright-RC-Car-Truck-LED-Light-Police-Flashing-Rotating-Beacon-Light-Accs/153332400280?hash=item23b352c098:m:mzfPT5WLMHwhizulhSwypbw
Hi! Great movie. Has this truck all real differentials without locking?
Yes, all the diff's work and are open (not locked)
Even both middle or outer only?
Is differential are really work,means all tyres are independis move
Yes, they do.
It's way similar to an old axiql scx10...
Hi:
I have the P801... concerning my left front tire... a pin (part # W01002) somehow came out of it's hole/slot and broke it's housing (part # C006). This assemble can be found in the Chassis Structure booklet, on page 12, in section # 24. I have ordered a new part of each and I'm waiting for them to be sent to me. Once I get them and reassemble the left outer axel unit, do I need to provide some sort of grease in the housing (part # C006). It appeared when I took it apart to assess the damage, that there wasn't any grease in there. Is this why the part failed initially? It looks like the pin (part # W01002) somehow became pushed out of it's slot ( bending the pin beyond future use) and warpping the housing (part # C006) until it cracked and broke... causing the tire to cease turning. Can you provide me with any advice? Keep up the good work.
My guess is that when they assembled your truck the pin was partway out and then bolting down the wheel bent it. Since the axle in that part rides in ball bearings no grease is needed, in fact grease would only attract dirt. Sounds like when you get the parts and put it back together you will be all good.
@@HobbyconceptsLLC Thanks. I ordered the parts... they should be here next week. This is an amazing truck for the money.
@@HobbyconceptsLLC I think I discovered the problem... but I'm unsure how to fix it. (Please look at page 12, diagram # 24). There are two pins that fit into the dogbone (part # C006). One pin (Part # W01002) fits through a hole on the dogbone itself. The other pin fits through the ball on the end of the axel (which the cup of the dogbone fits over). This pin that fits on the axel itself and into the cup of the dogbone is what forces the wheel itself to turn. However, the pin on my axel (which makes the dogbone turn) just seems to want to fall out while the axel is turning... thus breaking the cup of the dogbone... and thus preventing the motor from turning the wheel. The question is... how should I fix this problem? Glue the pin in the axel to prevent it from falling out and thus breaking the cup on the dogbone? This can't be right.
I noticed the pins on the other front axels seem to fit fine and are not falling out and breaking their dogbones. It seems like that pin should be a permanent part of the ball on the end of the axel... and thus prevented it from slipping loose. The manual doesn't really mention this pin in the axel. If you look at page 7, diagram 8, it shows the front diff assembly. The part of the axel I keep referring to is part # C028 (which I think would be called the drive shaft?). Do you see the ball at the end of the shaft with a pin through it. Part C028 fits into the dogbone (part C006). That pin at the end of the shaft is my problem... because it keeps wanting to fall out while the wheel is turning.
Do you have any ideas? Sorry for the long rambling comment/question... but I don't know anyone else who can help me.
Hello! my P802 arrived last Friday, I never used it, and I noticed that the seats of the bearings in the axles and in the gearbox, are not very precise ... let me explain: if we take a transmission shaft and try to move it up and down, near the entrance of the axles or the gearbox, we notice that there is a lot of space around the bearing! I do not think it should be there! Am I wrong?
You are correct they should fit tight. Mine are also a bit loose but I did not think they are loose enough to cause any running issues.
have you tried to take the transmission shafts that go to the front and rear to the exit of the gearbox? do the swing .... 😳 My professor of technique explained that the errors add up ..... I do not think it explodes, but it certainly is not good for gears, bearings and their seats .... if you have a contact in HG, you can tell them to improve the axle and gearbox seats; I would gladly buy the upgrades. These trucks are AWESOME !!!! even just to look and touch, but with these few improvements, they would be AWESOME !!!! also to use and they would be bomb-proof! I have yet to mount the sound module and the light kit; I hope that my LEDs all work, and that the noise of the engine does not resemble that of my wife Agnese's ABARTH as I heard you leave your sound module! 😁😁😁
Can the play in the axles be taken up by shims? I had to dp that on the diff input shafts on the HG-P407.
blkft1 234 , the play is right left and top and bottom, so it is a problem of wide seats or narrow bearings ....
Did you happen to calculate the gear ratio?
I did not.
is this built better than a tamiya truck?
In my opinion nothing is better than a Tamiya kit. It is however very nice and well made, plus where else can you get a HUGE HEMTT!!
im more concerned of durability. Do you think it can last longer or take more punishment than a Tamiya truck? planning on making it a tractor for my 80 lbs 1/10 scale. dozer
The HG HEMTT is much larger and more heavy duty than the Tamiya trucks. Would be much better to tow a trailer with a heavy dozer. It will tow 80lbs on a trailer with no problem.
what are you using for a beacon
Found them on eBay for about $7
@@HobbyconceptsLLC You have a link?