"I don't have a way to pull in three different directions with this." That gleam in your eye when you said that says "Now I have a mission for the next stage of this pulling machine."
I have tied a bowline using a Yosemite finish w/ a bight to create a forward-facing loop for rigging purposes. Would love to see that rigging loop tested!
I use that knot quite often for when my buddy and I are bolting. We have very long static lines and put one of those double 8's (super 8) in the middle of the rope and send down two lines. one for each of use or one for one of us plus our bolting bag. It allows us to better protect us is all. Not sure if it makes the whole system stronger, but we are on an 11mm static line so I am fairly certain we are safe hahaha.
Hey Ryan, cool test! For that three directional test Could you test it on the droptower? The loops being parallel and the tail towards the climber/descender?
Nice test! Important note is that a probably more redundant anchor ⚓ is usually made with alpine butterfly 🦋 and 8, with one anchor clipped to each one.
I think its good to keep in mind that there is only 1 rope, so that is the real bottleneck in redundancy. It can be much more efficient to use 2 knots though if the anchor is very wide.
@dannyCOTW in systems like IRATA, this would be paired with an identical rope. This would be used to split the load between 2 anchors of different heights and/or separated, and the 2nd line to maintain redundancy
It’s not tied that way for redundancy, its because the anchors are usually far enough apart that its much easier to use 8/9 + alpine than tie the bunny with really long ears. If you have 2 anchors next to each other you can just tie 8/9 and clip the knot into both anchor biners. 2 rope system either bunny in each rope with one loop to each anchor or 8/9 + alpine in each rope with 8/9 to one anchor and alpine to the other is identical in redundancy.
If people were worried about it rolling, then I wonder is the overhand bunny ears version would be better? I know it's not a knot people would typically use, but seeing as your testing this type of knot???👍
Hey Ryan, nice job on another interesting video. What do you think is the max you could put on that knot, or any 8 for that matter, and still be able to untie it reasonably easy?
Why didn’t you pull the super 8 straight both loops clipped in the same carabiner. I know the knot as a Canadian 8. I like to use it as a regular 8 I feel like it’s a little stronger but would love to see the data supper 8 vs 8 on a bite.
I did all that in the previous video (link in description), it breaks on the load strand going into the knot. It might have benefits outside of strength but it's all the same.
@@HowNOT2 since it breaks in the constriction that has two rope diameters inside with ether an eight or a super eight that makes sense. I wonder if that means a Yosemite finish to an eight would break slightly higher since it has 3 rope strands in that constriction. Obviously this is all just chasing higher breaking strength which isn’t the main concern with climbing rope most the time
a) scaffold knot: 23 % to 33 %; b) figure-of-eight on a bight: 23 % to 34 %; c) figure-of-nine on a bight: 16 % to 32 %; d) figure-of-ten on a bight: 13 % to 27 %; e) overhand on the bight: 32 % to 42 %: f) double figure-of-eight on the bight (bunny knot): 23 % to 39 %; g) alpine butterfly: 28 % to 39 %; h) bowline: 26 % to 45 %.
"I don't have a way to pull in three different directions with this." That gleam in your eye when you said that says "Now I have a mission for the next stage of this pulling machine."
I have tied a bowline using a Yosemite finish w/ a bight to create a forward-facing loop for rigging purposes. Would love to see that rigging loop tested!
I use that knot quite often for when my buddy and I are bolting. We have very long static lines and put one of those double 8's (super 8) in the middle of the rope and send down two lines. one for each of use or one for one of us plus our bolting bag. It allows us to better protect us is all. Not sure if it makes the whole system stronger, but we are on an 11mm static line so I am fairly certain we are safe hahaha.
I'd be curious to see the same test on a fusion knot !
Hey Ryan, cool test! For that three directional test Could you test it on the droptower? The loops being parallel and the tail towards the climber/descender?
how about doing the same test with the bowline knot with bunny ears, with and without a stopper knot.
Nice test! Important note is that a probably more redundant anchor ⚓ is usually made with alpine butterfly 🦋 and 8, with one anchor clipped to each one.
I think its good to keep in mind that there is only 1 rope, so that is the real bottleneck in redundancy. It can be much more efficient to use 2 knots though if the anchor is very wide.
Why would that be more redundant?
Less retained strength (butterfly < super 8) and the same rope configuration, no?
@dannyCOTW in systems like IRATA, this would be paired with an identical rope. This would be used to split the load between 2 anchors of different heights and/or separated, and the 2nd line to maintain redundancy
It’s not tied that way for redundancy, its because the anchors are usually far enough apart that its much easier to use 8/9 + alpine than tie the bunny with really long ears. If you have 2 anchors next to each other you can just tie 8/9 and clip the knot into both anchor biners.
2 rope system either bunny in each rope with one loop to each anchor or 8/9 + alpine in each rope with 8/9 to one anchor and alpine to the other is identical in redundancy.
If people were worried about it rolling, then I wonder is the overhand bunny ears version would be better? I know it's not a knot people would typically use, but seeing as your testing this type of knot???👍
I wonder if doing it your way, Ryan would actually make the know roll less, it might.
Hey Ryan, nice job on another interesting video. What do you think is the max you could put on that knot, or any 8 for that matter, and still be able to untie it reasonably easy?
4kn-6kn i can probably still do it with a hammer. after 8kn it's too rock hard after that
@@HowNOT2 thanks.
Did you get those from the commons?
Super Aids?!
Why didn’t you pull the super 8 straight both loops clipped in the same carabiner.
I know the knot as a Canadian 8.
I like to use it as a regular 8
I feel like it’s a little stronger but would love to see the data supper 8 vs 8 on a bite.
I did all that in the previous video (link in description), it breaks on the load strand going into the knot. It might have benefits outside of strength but it's all the same.
@@HowNOT2 since it breaks in the constriction that has two rope diameters inside with ether an eight or a super eight that makes sense. I wonder if that means a Yosemite finish to an eight would break slightly higher since it has 3 rope strands in that constriction. Obviously this is all just chasing higher breaking strength which isn’t the main concern with climbing rope most the time
a) scaffold knot: 23 % to 33 %;
b) figure-of-eight on a bight: 23 % to 34 %;
c) figure-of-nine on a bight: 16 % to 32 %;
d) figure-of-ten on a bight: 13 % to 27 %;
e) overhand on the bight: 32 % to 42 %:
f) double figure-of-eight on the bight (bunny knot): 23 % to 39 %;
g) alpine butterfly: 28 % to 39 %;
h) bowline: 26 % to 45 %.
I don’t think this is quite as redundant as it looks, if one loop were cut, then the other becomes very sketchy very quickly.
for the algo.