Quick question what happens if I forgot to close the last one it was open i used a spray bottle cleaner? Saw a different video and guy didn't explain to close the last one he just kept cleaning
Just did this last weekend using this video as a guideline. There were a few very minor differences on my Passat, but otherwise, great video and I'm not sure I would've attempted without it. Great job, guys. Thanks for all the help. Smoother idle, increased throttle response, and significantly decreased my single-mass flywheel rattle.. but man, getting those two rear throttle body bolts back in is a pain in the ass. Note: I grabbed an Ullman CHP6-L set off of Amazon and it was *amazing* at picking away the gunk. Edit: also, the two hoses you remove @ 7:15, I just disconnected from the rubber hoses running to the left and left them attached to the manifold - seemed to be much easier than disconnecting the 14mm connector like how you did in the video.
Im very glad we could be of assistance! But yes Ik exactly what you mean about the back bolts hahah I’ve dropped so many in my career haha. But if you have not done so already please subscribe
I’m going to be doing this on my mk6 golf r and there’s no real good videos for it. With the mk5 gti engine being the most similar this video is incredibly helpful.
Yeah unfortunately there isn’t many good videos on them for many of the generations so we tried to make one d descriptive as possible for ppl to follow. Let us know if you have any questions!
Hi ty for posting this video for us women who have not a clue of what maintenance is properly done when dropping a car off to "mechanic". Ok, I was told that I needed this repair for my 2010 VW CC ...the initial complaint was sluggish acceleration, and transmission fluid low indicator on dash board. Mechanic insist it was not the transmission but intake. So I left my car with, and gave money for the part to be replaced. Went back a week later to see why the lengthy stay and was told that one of those cards you soaked in the cup had melted into the engine some and needs to be cleaned out for proper air intake. One week later, I went back and was told they still couldn't get all of the "melting out" but it's running better. In my opinion it's worse. No acceleration...a little knocking sound and engine hesitate in first couple of gear then smoothes out. I took my car home in this condition,not trusting the work that had been done. Then I had auto zone do a quick diagnostic and code came back as alternator is dead and my fairly new battery is what's keeping the car running. I'm hoping that you could please explain what might be the issues or if that even makes sense? Help🙏🙃
Man watching this makes me so glad I bought that cheap blaster and the walnut shells from harbor freight. Did it way faster and mine looked like brand new valves out of the box. No way I would do all that work and only get them as clean as this video. Wish I could post the after pics. Literally brand new not a single spec of anything.
Thank you so much for making this dude, I was looking everywhere for a 2.0T fsi video for intake manifold replacement, I own an 07 GLI so this was just perfect
Tbh the thought of this job is more scarier then the actually job! Once you get to it you’ll find it pretty easy, I wish you luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask! But thank you, we try to make it easy to follow!
The crank pulley, you’ll put the socket on it and just turn the engine by hand. It’ll open and close the valves according depending on which cycle you’re on
Great video! Just one advice though, I wouldn't scrape the valve with pick, use a bundled zip-tie to make it strong yet won't scratch the valves and use that to scrape off the carbon. Dip the bundled zip-ties in a cup of seafoam and just scrape it off. Works great.
@@TehMC bundle up those plastic zipties with a rubber band and use it to scrub and scrape your intake valves with it rather than using a metal piece that would damage your intake valve
Damn, low mileage GTI. Haha my GLI is getting up to it's 3rd service, got the mani broke free but couldn't get it all the way off, this video showed me what I was doing wrong. God bless
Yeah it was pretty low mileage I’m not gonna lie! I sold it at 108k miles just recently and picked up an s3. But I’m glad we were able to help guide you in the right direction!
Great vid! Doing the oil filter housing and coolet gaskets now, will pull the intake and do this when I upgrade the injectors! Well done! Fellow NJ MK5 guy too!
Roy Musick Jr thanks! And ooo that’ll be fun haha but yeah if you’re down there you might as well upgrade the injectors for sure. But that’s awesome man maybe we’ll link up and do some kind of video! Also make sure to subscribe for more content!
Great video man. I didn't see or hear anything about the manifold support (might have missed it) it's the big shinny thing under there that runs vertical. The most fun part of the job lol. The support is held on to the manifold by a 10mm socket dead center on the bottom side. That connects to the block with a 10mm triple square. The only way you're getting to that is with a 1/4 extention with a woble on the end. Take your time!! Thanks for the video hope this helps someone.
Use a long T50 instead of the 10mm triple square. Take it easy. I'm about to cry I've been trying to get it with the triple square. Then tried the T50 and it was out in less than 10 seconds. You're really welcome for this one. Yall owe me now 😂
Thanks so much! But yeah it’s a scary job to think about but honestly it’s not that difficult. Just follow this step by step and you’ll do great! If ya need any help just comment and we’ll try to walk you through it!
Finally a tutorial for fsi! Thanks man this is a quick & informative tutorial. ill be giving this a try when I have the time. I noticed u blocked the pcv but didn’t see any catch can? Does blockoff plate need a catch can? (That’s to my understanding) Anyhow, well done and keep the Fsi tutorials up please 👍🏼, you’re our only fsi hope so far 😎
Chili Padi you’re welcome! Glad I can help. But yes you really should have a catch can. Mine kind of took a shit and I’ve just been neglecting buying a new one since I’m going to get an S3 soon. But glad to help. Please help us out by subscribing! We need 1k
Chili Padi thanks! well I’m APR stage 2+ but my friend went to school to become a tuner and he tuned my car correctly. Just enough to do it Without switching out internals and a bigger turbo. But it’s sketchy because to really be pushing this power you should switch injectors, and a turbo. It’s just clutch having a friend that can tune
Ratchet Wrenches ah the APR tuned solves it. I understand u had intake, DP & exhaust installation which made me wonder what else u had to achieve 350hp. Actually I’m watching ur other vid about ur current mods lol sorry for asking too early. Lucky u have a tuner friend! Hope to see more vids on ur gti & ur upcoming S3? Is the S3 an fsi too?
There are now tool sets available for sandblasting the carbon from the valves with pretty much the same level of disassembly work as you did. A special sand is used for this which can be chemically dissolved and neutralized after the work so it doesn't get into the cylinders and do any damage there. Some also use walnut for this. The final effect is spotless and looks pretty much like in the new engine.
@@RatchetWrenches I didn't but unfortunately my TSI is having misfires on idle recently and perhaps it will soon need such cleaning. I personally don't have the equipment to do this (not even a compressor or any air tools) so I will have to look for some mechanic that is able to do this. DiagnoseDan has shown the procedure with this special granulate in his video on YT "Tsi cold misfires explained". Good content to watch there!
Great video man🔥🔥 💯 this is exactly how my old boss taught me on a b7 a4 2.0t FSI motor! Good stuff man. I can also add to not overtighten the fuel line while reconnecting it b/c it’s just aluminum! Other than that ur are correct it’s not for the average diy-er.
Joey hahah yeah I broke one of the injectors my first time 😂 but hey it’s what teaches us. Hahaha isn’t unpinning connectors such a pain 😬 tedious and time consuming
Glad we can be of help! We appreciate the subscription. But yeah definitely with the higher mileage make sure to get it done. Make that motor last forever hahah
@@RatchetWrenches Hey, Great video! I have a strange question maybe. But could you provide us with a link off the socket set (tool) you're working with? Thanks a lot!
Hi, Great video Thanks! Myself have a A3 FSI 18 0000 Km gone for as many years also! I fixt carbon build wtih Italinan Way! Engine run fine last year no problem with build up carbon! Took a long trip for1500km last year in Sweden, pretty fast all the time those days, aver. 120Km/h all time! After that car became faster and as new drivin? I think my fast and long trip burnd out most carbon in, engine cleand it self! Thanks, Johnny D Bergh
Mattheu Henson we appreciate that! Helps us out way more than you’d think! And I’m glad we could be of help for you! We have a bunch of tutorials on this engine if you need more help
Ahh damn that’s unfortunate! But hey atleast you’ll be able to do it next time. VW recommends every 40k miles so luckily you won’t have to pay another $700 haha
I just done the manifold flap delete on an Audi s3 and there’s a aluminium stabiliser bar under the manifold held in by a 13mm and An m8 multispline that is missing on yours, other than that great video very instructive
Yeah the previous owner must’ve taken it to a shop and they left it off. Working at vw as a tech I tend to leave them out as well. They’re a pain in the butt. Yeah they stabilize the engine from tilting downwards a tad but they’re not a necessity. We leave them out so it’s easier for the next tech. I’ve come across one gti that had one and I’ve done this job about 100 times or more. I appreciate the comment and feedback! Helps us a lot! I actually plan on getting an S3, how do you like it?
I left it out thought it was more trouble than it’s worth putting back on, it just grips it’s crazy how fast you can launch it without slipping a wheel, the previous owner had the manifold hydro dipped on mine and all the works been done thank god 😅 fast enough for now 😉
J41D3N GT-TDI haha right that’s why most ppl just leave it out 😂 but yeah I’m tired of spinning my front wheels so def trying to grab a S3. I need that AWD. But yeah man they’re quick !
U got a new subs here!🙌🏻 just bought a 2006 FSI 2.0t Audi A3 and I’m the noob now, so hope ur channel have a ton of videos to me lol I want to get my Betsy running like a charm. It’s a 187k miles engine btw 😬 we’ll see how long it’ll last, I’m here to make it ever hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha😂 Thx once again, I’m open for any suggestions as a noob with a 187k miles fsi engine lol
In case anyone was planning on doing this to there 2.0l Fsi Passat, theirs some differences between this and a GTI FSI as I just learnt yesterday. Firstly, you have to disconnect the high pressure fuel pump if you’ll want to take out the intake manifold. The fuel lines will come out with the fuel pump and intake manifold. Secondly, theirs a bracket arm supporting the Intake manifold underneath it, right in the middle of the intake. Its horrible to get the M10 triple square out so be patient. Im a second year mechanic apprentice so im experienced and can confirm this job IS NOT for the faint of heart, inexperienced, or those with a lack of decent tools. In total this job took about 12 hours and a lot of frustration. And getting the charge pipe back in took a lot of time (2~ hours). Keep the rubber hose up top together when yoy disconnect it from the throttle body as lining back up perfectly is next to impossible. Other than that, this video is spot on, and extremely helpful. And with my car beingww as at 250,000km, the carbon cleaning made a big difference. Runs a little smoother now, and I definitely got a good chunk of power back.
Thank you so much for that! We’re trying to grow, it’s hard and definitely a long term game. Hahahah Ik exactly who you’re referring to with the saying “watahh” 😂
Brilliant finally found a video that shows taking off the fuel line so I can do banjo bolt delete 😊 did you use a 14mm spanner to get that bolt off or a crows foot spanner? Looks like the hardest part
Hey, brother. Great vid. And btw, thanks for doing this in good lighting. One question - at 13:05 you mention cranking the camshaft to set the valves right (closed). This little bit is not in the video. Where exactly is this bolt that needs to be turned to accomplish this move? Thanks in advance! (Subscribed!)
@ratchetwrenches, excellent video! Quick question! At the 7:15 mark where you remove the 14mm nut for the high pressure side fuel line that plugs into the fuel rail. Do you think it at all possible to remove that whole fuel line without removing the whole manifold? At 10:32 I see the whole line on the back side of the manifold and I’m just not sure if the line is replaceable with the manifold still in. The reason I ask is because my fuel line has developed a pinhole leak right before the 17mm nut by the HPFP. Thanks for your time!
Ideally walnut blasting your intakes after getting this far would be perfect, it is used a lot on direct injection BMW intakes and it cleans very finely around the valves which is the most important area to clean, very hard to do with a pick without scratching the back of your valves.
Sure you can do a peanut blasting for better results but they’re extremely messy. Plus I tried to cater this video towards the mass audience and most would be able to afford the intake cleaner and some cheap picks. But yes walnut blasting is probably the best way
@@RatchetWrenches Yes very true, but if you did want to try it and make a video, $25 or $50 harbor freight sand blast gun then some Walnut media/blast. And a hoover to stop any mess.
I know this is 5 years late lol, but 2 things would have made that job way easier.1- Install an "Oil Catch Can" instead of the Aftermarket PCV delete you have (they actually cause more "oil buildup") it reduces oil and carbon build up by almost 80%. 2- With the car running and someone on the throttle, you can buy a small rubber pipe bung (similar to your noise pipe delete) for the PCV Intake fitting. drill a small 1/8 hole in the rubber bung and spray your cleaner into an already "WARM & RUNNING" Engine (maintain 2-3k rpm). Now you might get a code or 2, misfire or air fuel mix, but your OBD2 will clear them up after, but my 06 GTI intake ports/valves(both sides) and even piston heads looked almost brand new after, it saves on removing Intake, replacing gaskets, fussing with hoses, sensors, throttle removal ect. and having to reinstall it all and hope no issues. I hope this helps for future reference
They’re not that bad. They’re easier then FSI engines. I’ve done tons of decarb services on TSI engines and I’d prefer doing a TSI over an FSI. My 06 Jetta has a FSI and I’m going to be doing this probably today. Been beating around the bush about doing it lol. I put a new cam and fuel pump in about 9 months ago and did a tube up and ran some BG through it and worked for a little while but I’m at 250k so it needs to get done now because my car isn’t liking me too much right now haha
S R There is no pro. All you’re doing is aimlessly burning oil, venting to the atmosphere and putting your engine at risk for oil starvation. PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Vw’s FSI & TSI engines have a throttle plate - a butterfly valve in the throttle body, so the inlet manifold is at less than outside air pressure - there's a vacuum in it - when the throttle is at less than fully open. This tends to suck oil from down the valve stems, - the inlet valve is hot - hence the oil carbonises on the back of the inlet valve when there is no fuel spray to wash it off. That’s where all the “PCV talk” circulates. If you have a pcv valve that’s clogged, replace it. Doing so restores optimal flow of blow-by gasses. Nature of these engines is you burn oil. Period. It was a valve coating Porsche realized when they borrowed the Volkswagen engine in their boxster in 2009. Vw didn’t realize it either until the numerous complaints.
Thanks for posting this for FSI, got the same engine in my A3! ... first time it's been cleaned in 94K miles? How long ago did you put on that PCV block-off plate?... wonder if it made any difference by not venting oil vapor into the manifold... putting catch can on soon to try and avoid having to do this for a while longer....
stannimal Glad to help! Put the block off plate on a year ago. I thought about a catch can but I also dont wanna put anymore money in the car. Im going to be posting more about this car and its motor so feel free to subscribe because I will be making more videos on it!
@stannimal Blocking the PCV is a very terrible idea because all the blowby is now going to the turbo inlet, intercooler and intake manifold. Look at the top of valve cover you will see a hose connected to the valve cover. The buildup in the intake valve is reduce by spreading it all over the intake. Ethanol blended fuel is what causing oil to vaporize because it burns very hot. The only difference between GDI and port injected is where the oil vapor condense.
@@asd9508 YES, the vacuum pump is lubricated by the blowby oil coming from the PCV. If valve cover leak make sure to replace the turbo oil return line and clean the pcv screen in the valve cover
No real issues to be honest. Driven probably around 40k miles or so when I put it on. I sold the car unfortunately so I’m not sure if it’s still holding up or not but for my ownership it had no issues!
Is this how VW clean the valves? Are there any special tools? Some other guys said that we should go soft on the inner walls to prevent damages. They aren't that weak are they?
Kou-Lai Chang yeah this is how you clean the intake valves. But yes you can use whatever it takes to get them off. It’s usually caked on due to heat. At work we use walnut blasters which’s are heavy duty but using a pick works as well
golfmaniac007 my first time it took me around 3 hours but I’m also a VW tech so it’s not as difficult for me compared to the average do it yourselfer. But I’ll tell you a shop shouldn’t charge 1200. That’s a lot. The dealer I work at charged around 700 with parts and labor. Which state are you in?
I just did mine last weekend using this video as a guideline and it took ~2 hours to get everything off, about 3 hours of scraping/cleaning valves, and ~an hour to button it all back up.. so about 6ish hours for someone that's used to working on cars, but by no mean a professional. Biggest pain in the ass was actually getting the throttle body back on since the bolts are such a PITA to get to.
So, doing this project right now. Got all the bolts securing the manifold out (7 T30 & 2 10mm). Pulling on the manifold to separate it from the block, but it’s only coming out about 1/2 an inch. When you remove the manifold in your vid, there looks like there’s a bolt hanging down off it... is there bolt that is holding it on under (facing downward)? Thanks
TwoCruks Media yes so in this video I didn’t show the bracket that attaches to that bolt because the previous owner that had the service done didn’t put that bracket back in. So I couldn’t show it, but yes you’ll have to remove that bracket, ik they’re 12 point bits
Would i know the valves are completely closed? They look closed but idk if they could theoretically be a mm closer. 3 looks closed and the right one was open. Also, what do you think about using a power washer for cleaning out the manifold?
Jenss Olav if they look closer, continue to turn the engine and it’ll go down. So then reverse it to the point where it’s flush. I mean you’ll be able to see. You can use a pressure washer if you’d like. Just don’t have it on full force to where it’ll crack it
Thanks man. Used to race back in the 90s. Now, we are seeking an mk5, 6spd. Just seeing and making a list of mods/repair, etc. Only one we've found (has to be 2 door) is an 09 with 115K. Dealer is asking 7.5K. Sounds kinda high eh?
No problem, and tbh that’s in the ballpark. 115 is not a lot for these cars. As long as they’re properly maintained they can run for s long time. But obviously I’d try to negotiate down to maybe like 6800
Thank you, you as well! And this car had 80,000 miles on it when I did this job. VW recommends doing this device every 40,000 miles. I had no symptoms causing me to change it, but symptoms are usually misfiring, bad gas mileage, slow acceleration and some others!
Yeah it does change a lot of how the car performs. Runs a lot Smoother for sure! But yeah I only changed the blue. You can change them all I just chose not to
you didn't show the absolute pain in the ass manifold pedestal with the triple square holding that thing up to the block. in order to access the bolt on the block you HAVE to remove that dipstick tube you removed in the beginning of the video. I cleaned all mine with acetone you can buy at home depot. let them sit whichever cylinders are closed, filled it up, soaked for a few hours, and suck out/dab out all of it with q tips and a pick and repeat. took a couple hours, but I didn't want to blow the residue all over the engine bay and front of my vehicle. they are all absolutely spotless.
Kim Scala I’ve done the cleaning before on my car and I purposely left that bracket off. For the exact reason of it being annoying af. Lol any VW tech will say leave it off for that exact reason. But yeah acetone is a great alternative. There’s so many ways to break down the gunk. At work we use the walnut blaster
@@RatchetWrenches im up to this part, the part where the intake manifold has the one bolt on the bottom and is a pain in the ass to remove from the car. Any suggestions on how to get this off? I been at this for hours lmaoooooo
I know is an old video, for those who still will diy on it. I have seen put together several zip ties and put on a drill and spin inside the holes, plastic will not damage the valves or ports, but eat up the carbon. Of course the proper way is walnut blasting using a vacuum and a pressure gun. I would have at least cover the injectors a little better when blowing out all that carbon gunk. And I would do an oil change right away, some of that dirty injector cleaner zips thru as you noticed the car was still burning some of it within the piston chambers. The oil is contaminated, so an oil change is mandatory.
Honestly I ran it for like 5 years until I decided to run a catch can. It was great for me. But it’s hard to really tell if it’s bad for the motor or not I don’t think it was ever proven. But it definitely increased throttle response and had a little more pep in my honest opinion!
2 year old but VERY great video. I have always wanted to do this but the thought of replacing those seals at the tip of the injectors was a turn off. I mean I'd need special tools and stuff. I notice you didn't bother replacing those as you mentioned. Isn't there a possibility of something going wrong like fuel leakage maybe?
Curtis Tino thank you! And yeah the injectors you’re need the proper tool but tbh I never change them. It’s possible that there’s a potential leak or something going wrong but more times than not there’s no issues. If I had the tool I’d change them though
I just want to thank you in advance. This looks hectic when reading a wall of script about it, but you made it look doable. I suspect I have an oil leak from the oil filter housing, and was thinking about doing them both at the same. ive read about doing the oil filter housing from the bottom of the car, but if im removing the intake manifold, would it be possible to do the filter housing? Thanks again.
weareyesyesyes no problem man! Glad I could be of help. And you can access the oil filter housing a lot easier with the manifold out for sure. Just wanna make sure if you do that to plug the intake valves with a rag for each of the 4 so you don’t get oil or any other debris in there
@@RatchetWrenches I verified and we have the same engine. you just have a different aftermarket air intake and oil catch. I have issues with lean condition at startup, but no codes, except sometimes P0171 that comes up.
madspeed50 thanks and yeah they weren’t coming off. I did actually like a week after redo the job with stronger chemicals to remove the buildup. Unfortunately I didn’t have access to a walnut blaster
laalaa99stl not sure if you can grab it at a local auto parts store. I had to get it from my work it’s a vw/AUDI specific chemical. If you go to a dealer near you and ask for a carbon cleaning kit. They’ll give it to you for a good price depending on where your located
Good video,is this the first time you did a valve clean on this mk5 and what was the mileage,I got a mk7 what mileage would you recommend taking it off and cleaning them,I guess the longer you wait the harder it is to clean it off,
Thanks! yes since I’ve owned the car this was my first time doing it. But I suggest to perform this every 60k miles. Now that’s not necessary but if you want to prevent damage or a lot of build up I suggest you do it within that interval range. the longer the buildup is there the worse your car will run and the buildup will be harder to scrape off since it’s just going to be collecting more and more.
Also recommend not getting shit gas. These engines hate shitty gas. I always put shell v power in mine since I bought it with 215,000 now it has roughly 250,000 06 Jetta FSI
There was still a lot of carbon left on there. I think you should have used some bench buddy brushes on a drill to really break everything loose in there, with the valve cleaner still sitting on top of the valves. And maybe even a shop vac with a small attachment at the end both before and after blowing it clean with air. Also... what's that putting sound at idle? Is that your rear breather check valve?
Ryan Layne yeah Ik I kinda half assed it. At work we have a walnut blaster which works 100% better. and yeah I believe soo. I have to replace it because the previous owner didn’t maintain the car properly. It’s leaking from the valve
Ratchet Wrenches If it’s the rear breather putting its not because its broken or anything. It’s because of the blockoff plate on the front PCV. Just take out the breather and punch out the check valve and then the noise will go away. There’s absolutely no reason to have a check valve without a front PCV.
Unfortunately I don’t remember the part number I actually worked for vw as a tech and had them laying around 😬. I’m sure you can just google vw oem injector seal kits it’ll come up
You talking about the dip stick itself or the orange or yellow bracket that's keeping it in place? There should be a bracket for the ac line that secures to the same stud the dip stick is attached to. If you took that bracket off and are now trying to slide the dipstick off of that screw beware that it is a stud that is screwed into the manifold holding your dipstick there.
Thank you ! And it’s actually the crank bolt, it’s a 24mm and you’ll see it, the belt goes around it (the pulley) the bolt is in the center of that pulley
Ratchet Wrenches appreciate the quick response 👍 I managed to get it with the m10 bit, some sort of short bit plug that allowed me to get a tiny adjustable wrench on the end 😂 my 3/8s swivel wouldn’t fit. BIG thanks for this video!!!
I have a misfire on my 3rd cylinder on my B6, plugs and rubber boots replaced, wondering if this might fix my misfire?? Im replacing my fuel injectors and hope this is it, compression test after
Getting ready to perform this with my '06 Gli to install Rs4 injectors due to the fact that every cold start is a misfire, and since I'm going on 185k, I decided that I'm also gonna replace the intake manifold... Wish me luck! 💯🙂 (I've replaced coils with the r8s and replaced plugs with ngk, along with carbon cleaning, and still misfire so we'll see if that does the trick)
@@cruiseedwards4657 So carbon build up was a culprit, but mainly it was the fuel injectors that got fouled due to too much carbon buildup, and it ended up getting a lot of carbon at the tip of each injector
It’s not the end of the world, as long as it’s broken up it’ll find it’s way into the oil pan and come out when you do an oil change. But if it’s big/hard pieces it can cause damage to the valves. As long as you’re doing the job correctly very minimal amounts of gunk should drop down
Sold the car but I liked it! Gave a tad bit of a better throttle response but I’d suggest pairing it with a catch can. I ended up doing the cts turbo catch can with the block off plate
![[EP5] Golf GTI MK5 Intake Valve Clean - Golf GTI Mk5 Build](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IFZ-JX5yFWw/mqdefault.jpg)
Bro you saved me 1500 dollars. Appreciate the video. Car sounds and feels amazing again
That’s our goal! Glad we can help you out. But yeah it’s like a totally different fee with this job being done haha
Ha i was just about to type the same thing! Just suscribed because of such a wicked detailed video
This video will save me soo much!
Can’t wait to get mine done. 170k miles and it’s never been done. Running so rough.
@daviscc65 did you get it done and notice a difference? And did you ever change or rebuild your injectors?
Quick question what happens if I forgot to close the last one it was open i used a spray bottle cleaner? Saw a different video and guy didn't explain to close the last one he just kept cleaning
Only video that I've seen so far that showed the left side of the engine. Great job my friend.
Thank you! And yeah we’re trying to show everything in our tutorials. Please help is out by subscribing for more!
Just did this last weekend using this video as a guideline. There were a few very minor differences on my Passat, but otherwise, great video and I'm not sure I would've attempted without it. Great job, guys. Thanks for all the help. Smoother idle, increased throttle response, and significantly decreased my single-mass flywheel rattle.. but man, getting those two rear throttle body bolts back in is a pain in the ass. Note: I grabbed an Ullman CHP6-L set off of Amazon and it was *amazing* at picking away the gunk.
Edit: also, the two hoses you remove @ 7:15, I just disconnected from the rubber hoses running to the left and left them attached to the manifold - seemed to be much easier than disconnecting the 14mm connector like how you did in the video.
Im very glad we could be of assistance! But yes Ik exactly what you mean about the back bolts hahah I’ve dropped so many in my career haha. But if you have not done so already please subscribe
does the fuel consumption also improve?
What year passat?
@@hellsk100 Early '08
@@spiccy cool thank you for the fast reply
I'm really impressed by the visual detail of this video.
So satisfying to watch an engine breathe again and have someone who knows what they are talking about post a real world video
Appreciate that comment! There’s not many videos on this so We figured we would try to make a very detailed one
I don't even have my mkv anymore, and I still liked watching your video.
Thank you so much we greatly appreciate that!
Finally someone with brains
It's a big job if your not a mechanic butnif u have tolls and confidence then break it down it can be done. I'm gonna do it this weekend
I’m going to be doing this on my mk6 golf r and there’s no real good videos for it. With the mk5 gti engine being the most similar this video is incredibly helpful.
Yeah unfortunately there isn’t many good videos on them for many of the generations so we tried to make one d descriptive as possible for ppl to follow. Let us know if you have any questions!
Hi ty for posting this video for us women who have not a clue of what maintenance is properly done when dropping a car off to "mechanic".
Ok, I was told that I needed this repair for my 2010 VW CC ...the initial complaint was sluggish acceleration, and transmission fluid low indicator on dash board. Mechanic insist it was not the transmission but intake. So I left my car with, and gave money for the part to be replaced. Went back a week later to see why the lengthy stay and was told that one of those cards you soaked in the cup had melted into the engine some and needs to be cleaned out for proper air intake. One week later, I went back and was told they still couldn't get all of the "melting out" but it's running better. In my opinion it's worse. No acceleration...a little knocking sound and engine hesitate in first couple of gear then smoothes out. I took my car home in this condition,not trusting the work that had been done. Then I had auto zone do a quick diagnostic and code came back as alternator is dead and my fairly new battery is what's keeping the car running. I'm hoping that you could please explain what might be the issues or if that even makes sense? Help🙏🙃
Wow that's sounds frustrating. Did you find the issue in the end? I'm assuming injector?
Man watching this makes me so glad I bought that cheap blaster and the walnut shells from harbor freight. Did it way faster and mine looked like brand new valves out of the box. No way I would do all that work and only get them as clean as this video. Wish I could post the after pics. Literally brand new not a single spec of anything.
We definitely need videos about FSI engines, thank you man! Gotta do this soon
We have a bunch on the channel, unfortunately we sold the car and bought an s3. Thanks for watching!
U made me have more ego for do things that i didnt know how to do that or if i can do in one day or if i have the tools for do it, i love u man.
That's awesome to hear!! Glad we could help out
Thank you so much for making this dude, I was looking everywhere for a 2.0T fsi video for intake manifold replacement, I own an 07 GLI so this was just perfect
not looking forward to this job, but damn im glad I found this video, well documented and explained, keep it up man!
Tbh the thought of this job is more scarier then the actually job! Once you get to it you’ll find it pretty easy, I wish you luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask! But thank you, we try to make it easy to follow!
@@RatchetWrenches Sounds good! I wanted to ask though, where exactly is that part to "crank" to move the valves in order to open and close them?
The crank pulley, you’ll put the socket on it and just turn the engine by hand. It’ll open and close the valves according depending on which cycle you’re on
@@RatchetWrenches Got you, thanks for clarifying! Thanks again!
Great video! Just one advice though, I wouldn't scrape the valve with pick, use a bundled zip-tie to make it strong yet won't scratch the valves and use that to scrape off the carbon. Dip the bundled zip-ties in a cup of seafoam and just scrape it off. Works great.
Hey I’m planning on doing this soon, but what did you mean exactly by using a bundled zip tie? What is that supposed to be?
@@TehMC bundle up those plastic zipties with a rubber band and use it to scrub and scrape your intake valves with it rather than using a metal piece that would damage your intake valve
I was thinking of using a shotgun bore brush.
Thanks heaps for making this video mate. Gonna give this a go soon.
Made a drinking game for anyone keen:
1:04
1:12
1:15
1:23
1:33
1:46
2:00
2:36
let get all this shit out the way
You explained this awesomely man. Thank you so much, for real. People like you are what youtube great
Honestly thank you so much for this comment! That means a lot to us. Thanks for watching!
Damn, low mileage GTI. Haha my GLI is getting up to it's 3rd service, got the mani broke free but couldn't get it all the way off, this video showed me what I was doing wrong. God bless
Yeah it was pretty low mileage I’m not gonna lie! I sold it at 108k miles just recently and picked up an s3. But I’m glad we were able to help guide you in the right direction!
when life gives you lemons...you just get them outta the way....great video, thanks...
Thank you!
Great vid! Doing the oil filter housing and coolet gaskets now, will pull the intake and do this when I upgrade the injectors! Well done! Fellow NJ MK5 guy too!
Roy Musick Jr thanks! And ooo that’ll be fun haha but yeah if you’re down there you might as well upgrade the injectors for sure. But that’s awesome man maybe we’ll link up and do some kind of video! Also make sure to subscribe for more content!
@@RatchetWrenches just subbed! Yea I have yhe front end all tore apart so if you need content id be happy to help!!
Been waiting for this video! 🙌🏼
Great video man. I didn't see or hear anything about the manifold support (might have missed it) it's the big shinny thing under there that runs vertical. The most fun part of the job lol. The support is held on to the manifold by a 10mm socket dead center on the bottom side. That connects to the block with a 10mm triple square. The only way you're getting to that is with a 1/4 extention with a woble on the end. Take your time!! Thanks for the video hope this helps someone.
That's a 13mm socket not a 10mm
Use a long T50 instead of the 10mm triple square. Take it easy. I'm about to cry I've been trying to get it with the triple square. Then tried the T50 and it was out in less than 10 seconds. You're really welcome for this one. Yall owe me now 😂
Really great video! I would have no idea how to do this by myself but I think I could handle it after seeing this. Great stuff
Thanks so much! But yeah it’s a scary job to think about but honestly it’s not that difficult. Just follow this step by step and you’ll do great! If ya need any help just comment and we’ll try to walk you through it!
So happy to find this video on an fsi! I'm tackling a misfire issue and the only thing left is carbon clean or head gasket lol
Did the carbon clean fix your misfire
Finally a tutorial for fsi! Thanks man this is a quick & informative tutorial. ill be giving this a try when I have the time. I noticed u blocked the pcv but didn’t see any catch can? Does blockoff plate need a catch can? (That’s to my understanding)
Anyhow, well done and keep the Fsi tutorials up please 👍🏼, you’re our only fsi hope so far 😎
Chili Padi you’re welcome! Glad I can help. But yes you really should have a catch can. Mine kind of took a shit and I’ve just been neglecting buying a new one since I’m going to get an S3 soon. But glad to help. Please help us out by subscribing! We need 1k
Ratchet Wrenches just did ✌️
Btw, what mods did u install to achieve 350hp? (Correct me if im wrong) saw ur other vids that mentioned 350hp.
Chili Padi thanks! well I’m APR stage 2+ but my friend went to school to become a tuner and he tuned my car correctly. Just enough to do it Without switching out internals and a bigger turbo. But it’s sketchy because to really be pushing this power you should switch injectors, and a turbo. It’s just clutch having a friend that can tune
Ratchet Wrenches ah the APR tuned solves it. I understand u had intake, DP & exhaust installation which made me wonder what else u had to achieve 350hp. Actually I’m watching ur other vid about ur current mods lol sorry for asking too early. Lucky u have a tuner friend! Hope to see more vids on ur gti & ur upcoming S3? Is the S3 an fsi too?
Chili Padi nah don’t worry about it! Yeah Ik it’s very clutch! And yeah I can’t wait for the S3 and it’s a TSFI
There are now tool sets available for sandblasting the carbon from the valves with pretty much the same level of disassembly work as you did. A special sand is used for this which can be chemically dissolved and neutralized after the work so it doesn't get into the cylinders and do any damage there. Some also use walnut for this. The final effect is spotless and looks pretty much like in the new engine.
Interesting, I’ve only done this way or walnut blasting. I always wanted to do the sandblasting. I heard great things with it. Have you done it?
@@RatchetWrenches I didn't but unfortunately my TSI is having misfires on idle recently and perhaps it will soon need such cleaning. I personally don't have the equipment to do this (not even a compressor or any air tools) so I will have to look for some mechanic that is able to do this. DiagnoseDan has shown the procedure with this special granulate in his video on YT "Tsi cold misfires explained". Good content to watch there!
Attempting the same on my 08 Jetta Wolfgang , nice video.
Nice if you have any questions let us know! Thanks for watching
@@RatchetWrenches your welcome, I will
Great video man🔥🔥 💯 this is exactly how my old boss taught me on a b7 a4 2.0t FSI motor! Good stuff man. I can also add to not overtighten the fuel line while reconnecting it b/c it’s just aluminum! Other than that ur are correct it’s not for the average diy-er.
Thanks man! and yeah I used this job like 4 times a week haha. But yeah definitely not for the average person.
The first time I’ve done this I broke like 4 connectors lol needless to say I also got good at unpinning connectors 😂
Joey hahah yeah I broke one of the injectors my first time 😂 but hey it’s what teaches us. Hahaha isn’t unpinning connectors such a pain 😬 tedious and time consuming
Ratchet Wrenches lol I’ve done a couple where I was like fuck this... and just bought new connectors for
Been there done that! The struggle is real
Do your thermostat while your in there & it would also be a good idea to have your injectors cleaned & flow matched 👍nice upload
Very true can’t hurt to do the stat as well, I actually did mine a few mo the prior to that tho when it took a shit haha. But thanks for the comment!
Yes, good advice. My thermostat is shot and someone suggested removing the intake manifold for better access, and that is how I ended up here.
Yes while intake is removed you can check/ replace: thermostat w/ housing, temp sensor and both knock sensors.
Just watched and subscribed! GREAT job! I have a 6spd manual '07 Passat w/225k and no doubt it needs this done. Thanks so much for this video 👍
Glad we can be of help! We appreciate the subscription. But yeah definitely with the higher mileage make sure to get it done. Make that motor last forever hahah
Well done. I'll be tackling this job next week. Thanks.
Jim Hyatt glad I can help! If you have any questions feel free to ask
Nice. I wonder if using mini wire brush on extended dremel handle will make it easier to clean those valves including tight area and crevices.
Yes people do that for sure. I do as well but that was one of the tools in my toolbox at the shop so I went with this way
@@RatchetWrenches Hey, Great video! I have a strange question maybe. But could you provide us with a link off the socket set (tool) you're working with? Thanks a lot!
Thanks for taking your time. Helped a lot
No problem, And glad it helped you out!
Did you have to tune it after putting the CTS intake kit on it?
For an intake you don’t need a tune. If you want to get the beta performance out of it I’d suggest tuning it but it’s not a requirement
@@RatchetWrenches Thank you for the info!
Hi, Great video Thanks!
Myself have a A3 FSI 18 0000 Km gone for as many years also!
I fixt carbon build wtih Italinan Way!
Engine run fine last year no problem with build up carbon!
Took a long trip for1500km last year in Sweden, pretty fast all the time those days, aver. 120Km/h all time!
After that car became faster and as new drivin?
I think my fast and long trip burnd out most carbon in,
engine cleand it self!
Thanks, Johnny D Bergh
Subscribed because damn you helped me figure it out without taking the bumper off n without me taking it to the shop.
Mattheu Henson we appreciate that! Helps us out way more than you’d think! And I’m glad we could be of help for you! We have a bunch of tutorials on this engine if you need more help
This video really helped me, thanks for posting 👍
Glad to help!
I have seen the electric drill with zip ties trick on YT videos showing good results.
I’ve actually seen that, pretty crazy!
Dude i seen this a bit late. I sent my gti for it to be done and wad charged 700. I wish i would of ran into this video earlier
Ahh damn that’s unfortunate! But hey atleast you’ll be able to do it next time. VW recommends every 40k miles so luckily you won’t have to pay another $700 haha
One thing I can advice you when taking those bolts and nuts at the bottom is always have a magnetic grabber. Did it and it never fell off.
jonray74 yeah I usually do but I have it with all my other tools at work haha.
I just done the manifold flap delete on an Audi s3 and there’s a aluminium stabiliser bar under the manifold held in by a 13mm and An m8 multispline that is missing on yours, other than that great video very instructive
Yeah the previous owner must’ve taken it to a shop and they left it off. Working at vw as a tech I tend to leave them out as well. They’re a pain in the butt. Yeah they stabilize the engine from tilting downwards a tad but they’re not a necessity. We leave them out so it’s easier for the next tech. I’ve come across one gti that had one and I’ve done this job about 100 times or more. I appreciate the comment and feedback! Helps us a lot! I actually plan on getting an S3, how do you like it?
I left it out thought it was more trouble than it’s worth putting back on, it just grips it’s crazy how fast you can launch it without slipping a wheel, the previous owner had the manifold hydro dipped on mine and all the works been done thank god 😅 fast enough for now 😉
J41D3N GT-TDI haha right that’s why most ppl just leave it out 😂 but yeah I’m tired of spinning my front wheels so def trying to grab a S3. I need that AWD. But yeah man they’re quick !
The best video for my engine.. thank you.
Thank you, and Our pleasure!
You sir... Are my new hero...
Hahah thank you! I’m glad we can help!
Brilliant video man 👌
Thank you!
U got a new subs here!🙌🏻
just bought a 2006 FSI 2.0t Audi A3 and I’m the noob now, so hope ur channel have a ton of videos to me lol I want to get my Betsy running like a charm. It’s a 187k miles engine btw 😬 we’ll see how long it’ll last, I’m here to make it ever hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha😂
Thx once again, I’m open for any suggestions as a noob with a 187k miles fsi engine lol
Nice tutorial guys, yet again
Wise Legacy thanks 🙏
In case anyone was planning on doing this to there 2.0l Fsi Passat, theirs some differences between this and a GTI FSI as I just learnt yesterday.
Firstly, you have to disconnect the high pressure fuel pump if you’ll want to take out the intake manifold. The fuel lines will come out with the fuel pump and intake manifold.
Secondly, theirs a bracket arm supporting the Intake manifold underneath it, right in the middle of the intake. Its horrible to get the M10 triple square out so be patient.
Im a second year mechanic apprentice so im experienced and can confirm this job IS NOT for the faint of heart, inexperienced, or those with a lack of decent tools.
In total this job took about 12 hours and a lot of frustration. And getting the charge pipe back in took a lot of time (2~ hours). Keep the rubber hose up top together when yoy disconnect it from the throttle body as lining back up perfectly is next to impossible.
Other than that, this video is spot on, and extremely helpful. And with my car beingww as at 250,000km, the carbon cleaning made a big difference. Runs a little smoother now, and I definitely got a good chunk of power back.
Great video! I just put runner flap deletes in my mk6 golf r. Gonna get the apr stage 2+ tune Wednesday.
Chris G thanks man and apr stage 2+ is fun! Please help us out by subscribing for more content!
Ratchet Wrenches just subscribed :)
Chris G awesome!
Chris G any difference with the runner flap delete?
Luis Felipe Tardioli not too much, the exhaust sound seemed to change a bit most likely cuz of more air flow. Performance wise not too noticeable
Good video👏. You should have more subscribers than the guy saying "watahhh" in you tube with 2M followers.
Thank you so much for that! We’re trying to grow, it’s hard and definitely a long term game. Hahahah Ik exactly who you’re referring to with the saying “watahh” 😂
Good work young man it’s clear you know your stuff, I’ve subscribed 👍🏻
Thank you! Yeah I did this job about 5 times a week when I worked for vw 😂
That's awesome!!! Very informative!!
Thank you!! Thanks for watching
Brilliant finally found a video that shows taking off the fuel line so I can do banjo bolt delete 😊 did you use a 14mm spanner to get that bolt off or a crows foot spanner? Looks like the hardest part
What are torque specs on the studs?
15NM if you’re referring to the studs that hold the manifold in place?
Hey, brother. Great vid. And btw, thanks for doing this in good lighting. One question - at 13:05 you mention cranking the camshaft to set the valves right (closed). This little bit is not in the video. Where exactly is this bolt that needs to be turned to accomplish this move? Thanks in advance! (Subscribed!)
Thanks again! Glad we can help you out! And the bolt is actually on the Crank pulley! And thanks for subbing!
@ratchetwrenches, excellent video!
Quick question! At the 7:15 mark where you remove the 14mm nut for the high pressure side fuel line that plugs into the fuel rail. Do you think it at all possible to remove that whole fuel line without removing the whole manifold? At 10:32 I see the whole line on the back side of the manifold and I’m just not sure if the line is replaceable with the manifold still in.
The reason I ask is because my fuel line has developed a pinhole leak right before the 17mm nut by the HPFP.
Thanks for your time!
Keep making more...I have TFSI engine as well.
For sure, make sure to have the notification bell on so you never miss an upload
FSI for the win
Ideally walnut blasting your intakes after getting this far would be perfect, it is used a lot on direct injection BMW intakes and it cleans very finely around the valves which is the most important area to clean, very hard to do with a pick without scratching the back of your valves.
Sure you can do a peanut blasting for better results but they’re extremely messy. Plus I tried to cater this video towards the mass audience and most would be able to afford the intake cleaner and some cheap picks. But yes walnut blasting is probably the best way
@@RatchetWrenches Yes very true, but if you did want to try it and make a video, $25 or $50 harbor freight sand blast gun then some Walnut media/blast. And a hoover to stop any mess.
I know this is 5 years late lol, but 2 things would have made that job way easier.1- Install an "Oil Catch Can" instead of the Aftermarket PCV delete you have (they actually cause more "oil buildup") it reduces oil and carbon build up by almost 80%. 2- With the car running and someone on the throttle, you can buy a small rubber pipe bung (similar to your noise pipe delete) for the PCV Intake fitting. drill a small 1/8 hole in the rubber bung and spray your cleaner into an already "WARM & RUNNING" Engine (maintain 2-3k rpm). Now you might get a code or 2, misfire or air fuel mix, but your OBD2 will clear them up after, but my 06 GTI intake ports/valves(both sides) and even piston heads looked almost brand new after, it saves on removing Intake, replacing gaskets, fussing with hoses, sensors, throttle removal ect. and having to reinstall it all and hope no issues. I hope this helps for future reference
very good job. i did copy on you and i did it. that noise of broken exhaust is it normal and how did make it disappear please?
Wow.. nice how much space you have.. I’m jealous. I have a 2013 GLI and my manifold is right up against the grill basically
Yeah I’ve worked on them and hahah Ik your pain. Believe me it sucks haha
They’re not that bad. They’re easier then FSI engines. I’ve done tons of decarb services on TSI engines and I’d prefer doing a TSI over an FSI. My 06 Jetta has a FSI and I’m going to be doing this probably today. Been beating around the bush about doing it lol. I put a new cam and fuel pump in about 9 months ago and did a tube up and ran some BG through it and worked for a little while but I’m at 250k so it needs to get done now because my car isn’t liking me too much right now haha
What are the pros/cons doing a pcv delete without catch can?
S R There is no pro. All you’re doing is aimlessly burning oil, venting to the atmosphere and putting your engine at risk for oil starvation.
PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Vw’s FSI & TSI engines have a throttle plate - a butterfly valve in the throttle body, so the inlet manifold is at less than outside air pressure - there's a vacuum in it - when the throttle is at less than fully open.
This tends to suck oil from down the valve stems, - the inlet valve is hot - hence the oil carbonises on the back of the inlet valve when there is no fuel spray to wash it off.
That’s where all the “PCV talk” circulates. If you have a pcv valve that’s clogged, replace it. Doing so restores optimal flow of blow-by gasses.
Nature of these engines is you burn oil. Period. It was a valve coating Porsche realized when they borrowed the Volkswagen engine in their boxster in 2009. Vw didn’t realize it either until the numerous complaints.
Thanks for posting this for FSI, got the same engine in my A3! ... first time it's been cleaned in 94K miles? How long ago did you put on that PCV block-off plate?... wonder if it made any difference by not venting oil vapor into the manifold... putting catch can on soon to try and avoid having to do this for a while longer....
stannimal Glad to help! Put the block off plate on a year ago. I thought about a catch can but I also dont wanna put anymore money in the car. Im going to be posting more about this car and its motor so feel free to subscribe because I will be making more videos on it!
@stannimal Blocking the PCV is a very terrible idea because all the blowby is now going to the turbo inlet, intercooler and intake manifold. Look at the top of valve cover you will see a hose connected to the valve cover. The buildup in the intake valve is reduce by spreading it all over the intake. Ethanol blended fuel is what causing oil to vaporize because it burns very hot. The only difference between GDI and port injected is where the oil vapor condense.
@@w0lvez1 so it's better to keep the stock one?
@@asd9508 YES, the vacuum pump is lubricated by the blowby oil coming from the PCV. If valve cover leak make sure to replace the turbo oil return line and clean the pcv screen in the valve cover
@@w0lvez1 Thanks brother, will keep that in mind.
How is the pcv delete treating you and issues??
No real issues to be honest. Driven probably around 40k miles or so when I put it on. I sold the car unfortunately so I’m not sure if it’s still holding up or not but for my ownership it had no issues!
Is this how VW clean the valves? Are there any special tools? Some other guys said that we should go soft on the inner walls to prevent damages. They aren't that weak are they?
Kou-Lai Chang yeah this is how you clean the intake valves. But yes you can use whatever it takes to get them off. It’s usually caked on due to heat. At work we use walnut blasters which’s are heavy duty but using a pick works as well
@@RatchetWrenches awesome! Thanks. So using a screwdriver or brush wouldn't scratch? Just making sure. 😁
Kou-Lai Chang I’d use a pick rather than the screwdriver to be safe
how many hours did it take u to do this? i'm having trouble with mine. took it to a repair shop and they quoted me $1200
golfmaniac007 my first time it took me around 3 hours but I’m also a VW tech so it’s not as difficult for me compared to the average do it yourselfer. But I’ll tell you a shop shouldn’t charge 1200. That’s a lot. The dealer I work at charged around 700 with parts and labor. Which state are you in?
I just did mine last weekend using this video as a guideline and it took ~2 hours to get everything off, about 3 hours of scraping/cleaning valves, and ~an hour to button it all back up.. so about 6ish hours for someone that's used to working on cars, but by no mean a professional. Biggest pain in the ass was actually getting the throttle body back on since the bolts are such a PITA to get to.
@@RatchetWrenches sorry for 2 year response. I’m in washington state
wow...nice! How did you bleed the fuel air??
What do you mean by bleed the fuel air?
So, doing this project right now. Got all the bolts securing the manifold out (7 T30 & 2 10mm). Pulling on the manifold to separate it from the block, but it’s only coming out about 1/2 an inch. When you remove the manifold in your vid, there looks like there’s a bolt hanging down off it... is there bolt that is holding it on under (facing downward)? Thanks
TwoCruks Media yes so in this video I didn’t show the bracket that attaches to that bolt because the previous owner that had the service done didn’t put that bracket back in. So I couldn’t show it, but yes you’ll have to remove that bracket, ik they’re 12 point bits
I'm also at this point of removing that bolt but damn that's one motherf.
Thank Christ someone else had this prob
Did you noticed any difference in MPG or throttle responding after cleaning?
Nosnx1987 yes it’s more of a crisper acceleration. Prior it felt restricted and not as smooth
Would i know the valves are completely closed? They look closed but idk if they could theoretically be a mm closer. 3 looks closed and the right one was open. Also, what do you think about using a power washer for cleaning out the manifold?
Jenss Olav if they look closer, continue to turn the engine and it’ll go down. So then reverse it to the point where it’s flush. I mean you’ll be able to see. You can use a pressure washer if you’d like. Just don’t have it on full force to where it’ll crack it
Thanks man. Used to race back in the 90s. Now, we are seeking an mk5, 6spd. Just seeing and making a list of mods/repair, etc.
Only one we've found (has to be 2 door) is an 09 with 115K. Dealer is asking 7.5K. Sounds kinda high eh?
No problem, and tbh that’s in the ballpark. 115 is not a lot for these cars. As long as they’re properly maintained they can run for s long time. But obviously I’d try to negotiate down to maybe like 6800
Hello mate happy new year! How many kms you had before the cleaning and also what was the symptoms that make you clean them? Thank you!
Thank you, you as well! And this car had 80,000 miles on it when I did this job. VW recommends doing this device every 40,000 miles. I had no symptoms causing me to change it, but symptoms are usually misfiring, bad gas mileage, slow acceleration and some others!
Hello did you see the difference after cleaning?
you only changed the blue O-ring and not the teflon one? friendships from france
Yeah it does change a lot of how the car performs. Runs a lot Smoother for sure! But yeah I only changed the blue. You can change them all I just chose not to
@@RatchetWrenches ok thanks, because I am doing it on my 2.0 tfsi bwa
you didn't show the absolute pain in the ass manifold pedestal with the triple square holding that thing up to the block. in order to access the bolt on the block you HAVE to remove that dipstick tube you removed in the beginning of the video. I cleaned all mine with acetone you can buy at home depot. let them sit whichever cylinders are closed, filled it up, soaked for a few hours, and suck out/dab out all of it with q tips and a pick and repeat. took a couple hours, but I didn't want to blow the residue all over the engine bay and front of my vehicle. they are all absolutely spotless.
Kim Scala I’ve done the cleaning before on my car and I purposely left that bracket off. For the exact reason of it being annoying af. Lol any VW tech will say leave it off for that exact reason. But yeah acetone is a great alternative. There’s so many ways to break down the gunk. At work we use the walnut blaster
@@RatchetWrenches im up to this part, the part where the intake manifold has the one bolt on the bottom and is a pain in the ass to remove from the car. Any suggestions on how to get this off? I been at this for hours lmaoooooo
I know is an old video, for those who still will diy on it. I have seen put together several zip ties and put on a drill and spin inside the holes, plastic will not damage the valves or ports, but eat up the carbon.
Of course the proper way is walnut blasting using a vacuum and a pressure gun.
I would have at least cover the injectors a little better when blowing out all that carbon gunk.
And I would do an oil change right away, some of that dirty injector cleaner zips thru as you noticed the car was still burning some of it within the piston chambers. The oil is contaminated, so an oil change is mandatory.
Hi bro. How was the pcv delete plate working for you? I keep hearing that it's bad for the motor. What do you think?
Thanks
Honestly I ran it for like 5 years until I decided to run a catch can. It was great for me. But it’s hard to really tell if it’s bad for the motor or not I don’t think it was ever proven. But it definitely increased throttle response and had a little more pep in my honest opinion!
2 year old but VERY great video. I have always wanted to do this but the thought of replacing those seals at the tip of the injectors was a turn off. I mean I'd need special tools and stuff. I notice you didn't bother replacing those as you mentioned. Isn't there a possibility of something going wrong like fuel leakage maybe?
Curtis Tino thank you! And yeah the injectors you’re need the proper tool but tbh I never change them. It’s possible that there’s a potential leak or something going wrong but more times than not there’s no issues. If I had the tool I’d change them though
I just want to thank you in advance. This looks hectic when reading a wall of script about it, but you made it look doable. I suspect I have an oil leak from the oil filter housing, and was thinking about doing them both at the same. ive read about doing the oil filter housing from the bottom of the car, but if im removing the intake manifold, would it be possible to do the filter housing? Thanks again.
weareyesyesyes no problem man! Glad I could be of help. And you can access the oil filter housing a lot easier with the manifold out for sure. Just wanna make sure if you do that to plug the intake valves with a rag for each of the 4 so you don’t get oil or any other debris in there
what generation is this? it's super clean! mine is a EA113 2.0TFSI with K03 turbo. looks similar, but all dirty and with oil leaks.
Appreciate that and thank his is a mk5. 2008 GTI
@@RatchetWrenches I verified and we have the same engine. you just have a different aftermarket air intake and oil catch.
I have issues with lean condition at startup, but no codes, except sometimes P0171 that comes up.
Nice job showing the procedure, but those valves still have enough carbon buildup on them to warrant a walnut blast
madspeed50 thanks and yeah they weren’t coming off. I did actually like a week after redo the job with stronger chemicals to remove the buildup. Unfortunately I didn’t have access to a walnut blaster
I gave my wife a walnut blast last night!
@@RatchetWrenches What stronger chemicals ?
laalaa99stl not sure if you can grab it at a local auto parts store. I had to get it from my work it’s a vw/AUDI specific chemical. If you go to a dealer near you and ask for a carbon cleaning kit. They’ll give it to you for a good price depending on where your located
I left the throttle on and took off the radiator fan instead, had more room and it easy
There ya go, whatever works for you!
Good video,is this the first time you did a valve clean on this mk5 and what was the mileage,I got a mk7 what mileage would you recommend taking it off and cleaning them,I guess the longer you wait the harder it is to clean it off,
Thanks! yes since I’ve owned the car this was my first time doing it. But I suggest to perform this every 60k miles. Now that’s not necessary but if you want to prevent damage or a lot of build up I suggest you do it within that interval range. the longer the buildup is there the worse your car will run and the buildup will be harder to scrape off since it’s just going to be collecting more and more.
Also recommend not getting shit gas. These engines hate shitty gas. I always put shell v power in mine since I bought it with 215,000 now it has roughly 250,000 06 Jetta FSI
I've already liked downloaded and subbed
You’re the best! Thank you!
There was still a lot of carbon left on there. I think you should have used some bench buddy brushes on a drill to really break everything loose in there, with the valve cleaner still sitting on top of the valves. And maybe even a shop vac with a small attachment at the end both before and after blowing it clean with air. Also... what's that putting sound at idle? Is that your rear breather check valve?
Ryan Layne yeah Ik I kinda half assed it. At work we have a walnut blaster which works 100% better. and yeah I believe soo. I have to replace it because the previous owner didn’t maintain the car properly. It’s leaking from the valve
Ratchet Wrenches If it’s the rear breather putting its not because its broken or anything. It’s because of the blockoff plate on the front PCV. Just take out the breather and punch out the check valve and then the noise will go away. There’s absolutely no reason to have a check valve without a front PCV.
Heres what mine sounded like with the blockoff plate before removing the check valve. ruclips.net/video/vvveJWZ4dlc/видео.html
Ryan Layne okay cool thanks for that input!
Ryan Layne just watched it. That’s spot on! Thanks dude imma take that out like tomorrow haha
Bruv,... youa Genius!
Thanks haha
Does it have to be clean like walnut blast clean? Or is that sum kind of myth
That is one way to do it. Being a VW tech this is how we were trained and how VW recommends doing it. Either way works!
Excellent video !
Appreciate that! Please help us out by subscribing for more content
I got a stock 2013 golf r. right now its sitting at just below 40k. when should I consider doing a carbon cleaning on it?
Hey we recommend it every 40k. That’s what us vw techs were trained by and that’s the vv standard! But in reality you can do it every 50k
Hey bro, where did you buy those injector seals?? You gotta part number by chance
Unfortunately I don’t remember the part number I actually worked for vw as a tech and had them laying around 😬. I’m sure you can just google vw oem injector seal kits it’ll come up
Ahh lucky! & thanks dude I appreciate ya. Been looking online & seen mostly the full refresh kit. Only 4piece upper only kit I’ve seen is on eBay
Hey do you need to take off the charge pipe? Or do you think you can take off the throttle body without taking off the charge pipe? Cheers
Hey you don’t actually need to take off the charge pipe, you can just disconnect it at the throttle body yeah!
@@RatchetWrenches Ahh awesome. Thanks heaps of getting back to me and for the vid. Legends!
No problem! If you have any other questions feel free to comment!
Dude whats the diameter size of the coupler in 3.34min? Inlet/outlet IC coupler
On oem IC
Shit idk I’d have to measure it but by looking at it I wanna say maybe 2.5in
The top part of the dipstick is stuck really quite well, do i just keep pulling? doesnt seem like its meant to come off
Jenss Olav yeah pull it off, it gets like stuck, just be careful that’s all. Plus if it breaks it’s like 8$ from Autozone
You talking about the dip stick itself or the orange or yellow bracket that's keeping it in place? There should be a bracket for the ac line that secures to the same stud the dip stick is attached to. If you took that bracket off and are now trying to slide the dipstick off of that screw beware that it is a stud that is screwed into the manifold holding your dipstick there.
Nice video thank you. But can someone explain to me how to close the valve chamber. I dont know which bolt it is. Cant find it
Thank you ! And it’s actually the crank bolt, it’s a 24mm and you’ll see it, the belt goes around it (the pulley) the bolt is in the center of that pulley
@@RatchetWrenches thank you very much once again
Hey man, can I use this method to clean a 2010 MK6 GTI 2.0 TSI?
Yeah it’s the same procedure for the most part, some bolts and locations might vary but overall it’s the same steps etc
What angle of attack did you take when removing the m10 bolt on the bottom of that support bracket underneath???
Swivels is the only way. You gotta be creative when trying to reach them because they are the absolute worth
Ratchet Wrenches appreciate the quick response 👍
I managed to get it with the m10 bit, some sort of short bit plug that allowed me to get a tiny adjustable wrench on the end 😂 my 3/8s swivel wouldn’t fit.
BIG thanks for this video!!!
hakuna matata no problem! And gotcha yeah that’s what ya gotta do, some things work and some don’t! Aslong you got it off that’s all that matters
I have a misfire on my 3rd cylinder on my B6, plugs and rubber boots replaced, wondering if this might fix my misfire?? Im replacing my fuel injectors and hope this is it, compression test after
It’s possible this can fix your misfire for sure since the carbon buildup is a common reason behind a misfire.
Getting ready to perform this with my '06 Gli to install Rs4 injectors due to the fact that every cold start is a misfire, and since I'm going on 185k, I decided that I'm also gonna replace the intake manifold... Wish me luck! 💯🙂
(I've replaced coils with the r8s and replaced plugs with ngk, along with carbon cleaning, and still misfire so we'll see if that does the trick)
Did you get it sorted in the end? U probably need a walnut blast
@@cruiseedwards4657 So carbon build up was a culprit, but mainly it was the fuel injectors that got fouled due to too much carbon buildup, and it ended up getting a lot of carbon at the tip of each injector
What happens if I do drop gunk down into the engine?
It’s not the end of the world, as long as it’s broken up it’ll find it’s way into the oil pan and come out when you do an oil change. But if it’s big/hard pieces it can cause damage to the valves. As long as you’re doing the job correctly very minimal amounts of gunk should drop down
fam hows the pcv delete , any good ?
Sold the car but I liked it! Gave a tad bit of a better throttle response but I’d suggest pairing it with a catch can. I ended up doing the cts turbo catch can with the block off plate
What tool and where did you crank the motor to move the valve up
Jonathan Rojas crank pulley. Put a socket or wrench on the crank bolt and turn it until the valves open and close